Build a bath budget option. The process of building a bath: fast and cheap! Arbolite building

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose the right project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
• finish the interior and only then bathe.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often summer cottages do not differ large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
2. It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order to avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only the numbers that you need in order to choose the best place for the bath.

Considering measures fire safety for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

The material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made		The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building
	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away.

By the way, non-compliance with these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
3. Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Arbolite building.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be somewhat higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike frame structure. Built in the country is good wooden bath does not need warming.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that for such a heavy structure a strong foundation is needed, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several options different building materials, we will consider them separately.

frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here it should be borne in mind that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
• Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

• Natural debarked tree.
• Cut beam.
• Profiled bar.
• Glued beam.
• Round log.

Bath made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Arbolite building

If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make arbolite blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, therefore, it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of fumes that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will make such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for internal insulation unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.

To get the job done you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can nullify all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option there will be the use of wood: lining or similar facing materials.

Concerning exterior finish, then it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

markup

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.

If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the marking must be very accurately done.

So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Foundation type	Where is it applied and how is markup performed
	This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls.
Columnar	This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and ease of installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to excavation so the area stays clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Foundation pouring

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil in the area is dry and loose.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. IN winter period frosts are not very strong.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.

• We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
• For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as a backfill.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
• Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
• Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.

• In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.

• The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
• If any communications pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help the sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a basis is made for wooden house, then in non-cured concrete it is necessary to fix the foundation bolts.
• Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.

The construction of the frame of the bath

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed. various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and observe the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50 × 100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and dimensions of the bath.

• At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
• The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as a heat-insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix the vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay the floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend it will be necessary to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. They fit on it wooden shields, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and provide a drain in the bath

roof construction

Above any bath should be reliable roof, but the options for its creation may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely enter the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, formed on roofing material condensate will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
• With small sizes of baths and minor snow loads, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bath attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bath roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other premises, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing wood and brick bath clapboard is performed almost the same way. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To finish the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of a bar.
• Siding.
• Clapboard.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

You have to choose suitable material and decorate the façade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.

In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, you can make it possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

Canopy and all furniture for country bath can be made by yourself. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.

With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Scheme

Photo: original baths

Not everyone has the desire and ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bath. And in most of our country, warming up at times is simply necessary. The only way out is to build a bath inexpensively, with your own hands. There is a sufficient amount of building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but free-standing baths, then the frame and monolithic ones are considered the most budgetary technologies. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, sheathed with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Inside, between the two skins, a heater is laid.

One of the options for the frame structure - with board sheathing

In monolithic construction, arbolite is the most popular for the construction of baths - a mixture of cement with sawdust. Sawdust can be generally free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit hard. A removable formwork is placed along the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and it is rammed. The next batch is being mixed. It's that simple. Flammability is considered a disadvantage of this material, but wooden and frame baths are also combustible. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete is a warm, natural material that consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water.

Polystyrene concrete (granulated polystyrene mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bath. However, in itself, this material allows you to get a cheap and light building, which, with the right finish, will only please the owners.

All three technologies give a combination of low price and good thermal performance, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions where timber is still the cheapest material. In them, perhaps, it will be cheaper to put a chopped bath. From round timber or from a bar - this is already optional. The advantage of this solution is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemistry in order to preserve appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped baths have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are erected and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin warming and Finishing work. The second disadvantage is that it is necessary to regularly update the protective coating, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But on their own wooden baths very good special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive walling technology is far from everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because you can make lightweight foundations for them. Somewhere it is enough columnar, somewhere pile or pile-grillage. Any of the walls listed above can coexist quite normally with them, leveling their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage of different support points).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a strip foundation of shallow or normal laying may be required, and on especially heaving or unstable soils it may be necessary monolithic slab. On such grounds, in addition to the walling technologies listed above, you can add more building blocks- foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (basically, thorough protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although the foundations are required to be more solid.

Compact or temporary

If in the country you want to build a mini-bath, a very small booth, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If there is a desire, even an ordinary construction trailer, a barn or a change house can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate well and put the right stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bath in stages - photo report

The initial data are as follows: a bath in terms of no more than 4 * 5 meters, a small budget - no more than $ 200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Bringing it all together, it was decided to build frame bath on a columnar foundation.

The bath itself turned out to be 5 * 3 m, plus a terrace 1 meter wide along the long side. Under the bath, it was decided to make pillars from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, under a terrace of 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig in below the freezing depth - for this region it is 140 cm. By the way, we cut pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bath is 20 cm above the ground.

Inside each column, a frame of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed. 4 rods are connected, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can safely weld then the strapping.

Concrete was ordered ready, brand M250. A formwork was put up along the perimeter between the pillars and a boat was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bath floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete gained enough strength, work continued. A harness was welded from a corner 70 * 70 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the reinforcement outlets to the shelves of the corner.

It must be said right away that bearing capacity this foundation is redundant. On it you can build a two-story heavy building, and not a light one-story frame. But, since they did it “for themselves”, and there is also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to make warm floors in the washing and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself, without soaring, and doing it on a warm floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, a heater (polystyrene foam) was laid on the draft floor, waterproofing, a reinforcing mesh were laid on top, pipes were tied to it, and all this economy was filled with concrete. Under the stove, of course, the warm floor was not poured.

A week later, when the concrete gained enough strength (they didn’t cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on the construction of the frame. For the racks, a beam of 150 * 150 mm was used, spacers - a board of 50 * 150 mm (again, a solid margin of safety, but this is from the desire to build a good bath).

The bathhouse was built mainly alone, therefore a consistent installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then - in those places where door-windows will be installed or piers will adjoin. If, as a result, somewhere there are gaps greater than 1 meter, additional racks are placed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of a very powerful beam, they did not install intermediate ones, and the structure was given rigidity by slopes.

Further, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on the head, they began to manufacture the roof of the bath. It is made the most budgetary - single-sided, with a minimum rise - 15 °. To ensure this slope, the timber for the racks was pre-made in different lengths.

A board of the upper trim is nailed to the racks at the same level, ceiling beams are attached to it. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. From above, a continuous crate is stuffed under the roofing material.

truss system shed roof is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the OSB walls were sheathed, and then the floor was laid on the rest of the bath.

The next step is laying the oven. This is a long process - it took a whole month. The stove is stacked with a closed heater. In the zone of formation of the chimney, a cast-iron box is built into which stones are placed. A door leads to the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for underfloor heating (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, because there are two modes of operation - summer without floor heating, and winter, with the “turning on” of the register heating. Transfer from one mode to another - with the help of a valve.

This is followed by finishing work, and they will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in "cold rooms" is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling - 150 mm. The steam room on top of the insulation is also sheathed with foil on kraft paper.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are sheathed with OSB, cork is glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued on the OSB, the “dry” part is upholstered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washroom - dry area and shower room

In the steam room, first, a crate for lining with a clapboard is stuffed, then a wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two are accommodated comfortably, three are already more difficult, but also quite convenient. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly "in one hand". Assistants were only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they should be 100% vertical).

Video example of the construction of a bath from a monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive do-it-yourself bath 3 * 6 - step by step photos

The log for the future bath was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains, it dried for about 5 months. The building will consist of two halves: a steam room and a sink made of logs, and a rest room on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3 * 3 m. Construction began with a markup: in terms of 6 * 3.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep, expose the formwork. The width of the tape is taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors - from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side, and lining on the other. About how to do

In this form, we leave to winter - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to make a budget filing of the ceiling - to fill short boards between the rafters. They can be bought quite cheaply. We process, cut the desired length. We fill the supporting bars on the rafters, to which we knock the boards cut to size from below.

Outside, the yuan was sheathed with siding - both the frame part and the log cabin. It turned out to be far from ideal. And between the siding and the wall there is a ventilation gap, so there are no problems with removing moisture.

Budget bath do-it-yourself - another inexpensive solution - siding

Started upholstery interior spaces. We stuff the crate, lining on it.

Inside the rest room sheathed clapboard

We turn to the finishing of the steam room. First, cover everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room zone, separated by a glass door, and a “washing” zone. In the washing wall we will sheathe with moisture-resistant drywall, on which we will then glue the tiles, and in the steam room - with clapboard.

We sheathe the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for the installation of the furnace. She will be heated from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the oven, install it. We cover the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

Everything about the main work, the decor and all sorts of things remained - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.

From ancient times, the bath was sung and was an integral part of Russian folklore. It is often referred to as a place to purify the body and soul. It is especially nice to have your own steam room on suburban area or in a private house, which is quite simple to build with your own hands without the involvement of outside help.

Peculiarities

A bath is a place with a special comfort and aura, which requires careful observance of the conditions, rules and stages during construction. On modern market there is a wide variety of materials, thanks to which the construction of a steam room can be done very quickly and quite cheaply.

To build it with your own hands, you need to consider a few points.

• The place of the future bath. Its location should not be chosen at random. There are a number of instructions and tips that will help determine the territory for future construction.
• From what the foundation will be laid, what form it will take.
• Building dimensions. Masters advise to calculate the area in such a way that each person has about 3-4 square meters. m. For this reason, it is necessary to think in advance what approximate number of people will visit the bath.

• Material, its quantity, purchase.
• Choose the type of heating (electric boiler or traditional wood burning). The traditional Russian bath implies the presence of a real stove. Modern steam rooms are increasingly equipped with electric heater which heats up the room quickly set temperature, and also does not require constant maintenance of the fire.
• Finishes and accessories. It is always nice to be in a beautiful and clean room. This also applies to baths. External decoration plays an important role. High-quality and skillful design will always contribute to complete physical relaxation and peace of mind. Do not forget about bath accessories (buckets, brooms, hats and others). Of course, without them, you can already steam and wash well, but there are special cases in life, when "bath romance" is simply necessary.

You can start work only when the owner has decided on all the stages. Otherwise, this process may drag on for a long time without exact dates for completion.

Experienced masters in the construction of baths are advised to carefully consider all the details and not to rush during construction. Especially when you do it yourself. It takes a lot of effort to make this place truly a real bath, and not just a room where you can wash.

Where to place?

The location of the bath is one of the most important issues. Convenience and comfort when using it depends on it. It is also important where it is planned. Many people think that it can be any plot in the country, the basement of a private house, the roof or basement in a high-rise building.

There is a large number of rules, which is primarily aimed at the safety of a person and his home (if it is next to the future bath).

• It is advisable to make the bathhouse a separate building, since with poorly made waterproofing, adjacent rooms can become damp. If the area of ​​​​the site allows, then it is best to place it 8–10 m from the main house. If this is not possible, then you can make it in the form of an extension to the house. It is very convenient when it is in the backyard.
• Particular attention should be paid to drainage and water supply. The bath should be at least 25–30 m from a well or well. This is due to the fact that the steam room is a direct place of water pollution, which should not flow along the ground, but into a specially designated drain.
• It is good when there is a reservoir at 30–40 m. It is not worth putting it closer, since the onset of floods is possible, the structure will be flooded.

• It is not recommended to locate this building next to the road. This prescription is more about ethics than safety. It's not always nice to be seen strangers in the nude.
• The bath should not border on nearby areas, so as not to cause discomfort to the neighbors when the owners decide to have a good rest and take a steam bath.
• It is desirable that the doors face south, and the windows are located on the west side. These tips are related to weather conditions and the characteristics of human psychology. They say that the wind from the north is much colder, so there is a high chance of getting a bad cold. As for the windows, the rays of the setting sun will help you relax and get

The bath is a room with a high temperature inside, then, unfortunately, cases of its ignition are not rare. In this regard, the choice of location for its location should depend on the material from which the foundation is made and bearing walls. According to fire safety rules, if the building is made of non-combustible building materials, then it can be located 5–6 m from the dwelling (house). If this whole tree or part of the steam room has wooden base or finishing, then the distance increases to 8–12 m.

Do not forget that there are neighboring houses and buildings in the neighboring territory. Their location must also be taken into account, since non-compliance with the norms can lead to unpleasant proceedings, and, as a result, the demolition of the installed bath.

Projects

Not everyone can brag big house and huge land. But having modest or large possessions, you always want to have your own bathhouse or at least a mini-steam room.

If there is enough land for building, you can create a reference bath, which should have a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room (sometimes they make a pool there) and a shower or washing room. There you can wash off the remnants of soap and shampoo, or prepare the body for the heat (people take a warm shower with warm water). Owners of a truly large area can equip a bath room for a jacuzzi, massage, billiards and others.

But in a small area for construction, you can easily combine several rooms (dressing room and rest room, dressing room and shower room). It is worth noting that this comfort and coziness in the bath does not disappear anywhere.

Depending on the quadrature, you can choose the ideal solution. For example, if it turns out to build a bath with a size of 3 square meters. m, then a small steam room (approximately 1.8 sq. M) and a pre-bath room (1.2 sq. m) can fit there. This space may well be enough for one or two people to visit without much discomfort.

In the building 6.5 sq. m will fit the same number of rooms, but they will be more spacious. Under the steam room, it is better to allocate 3.5 square meters. m, and the rest of the place under the dressing room. Some owners put a small shower in the corner.

If you have 9 or 10 sq. m, you can plan the territory more interestingly. Under the "hottest place" it is better to give 5 square meters. m, where 2-3 people can comfortably accommodate. The rest of the room is easily divided into a dressing area and a small shower.

Bath size 12-15 square meters. m is much easier to equip, since you do not need to cut out every meter. Here you can already give more space for a steam room to go there with a small company (3-4 people), or combine it with a washing room (1 sq. M) and make a large lounge with a table to drink tea. It is also easy to divide the room into 3 separate rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a dressing room.

When there is room to turn around, it is much easier to divide the space. It all depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. If he loves big companies, then of course it is better to focus on the size of the steam room, because you can relax in the house after all the procedures. But when solitude and bath romance are more valued, then it is worth considering a rest room. There, a person can sit in an armchair with hot tea, think about life, have a sincere conversation with a friend, read a book.

materials

The selection and purchase of material for building a bath is best done by yourself, as it will be possible to check its quality before installation. The market is crowded various options. Thanks to this, you can easily build a beautiful, high-quality and budget steam room with a dressing room. Most masters claim that the material from which the bath structure is made (its foundation) does not affect the bath procedures in any way. In this regard, more attention should be paid to the choice of the internal component, namely the material that will be inside the steam room.

In the minds of most people, a bath is only made of wood or stone. But it is not so. Materials are improved in their qualities, and are also combined depending on the region of residence.

For the southern regions, it is not advised to use timber or wood for the frame, as there are many pests (bark beetle, grinder beetle, barbel, and others). From high temperature and humidity, fungus and mold appear. Therefore, the service life is very short - 2-4 years. For the southern part of Russia, the use of stone or brick is recommended. Most often, wood concrete blocks, polycarbonate (for a summer bath), aerated concrete, and sandwich panels are used there.

For the northern regions, wood is more preferable. Due to its natural features, it does not need to be treated with chemistry from pests. For this reason, the bath will be more environmentally friendly.

If it was decided to make a wooden frame bath, then the walls will require a wooden beam directly (the quantity is purchased based on the project) or wooden sleepers (rather cheap building material), insulation and sheathing material. It can be OSB boards. They are pressed sawdust with resin, wax and boric acid.

For the inner lining, they take even pre-prepared boards, and for the outer - lining or eurolining. Sometimes (to save money) people use wooden pallets. Due to their shape, they can be used to build strong enough walls. Of course, they will need to be insulated. This option is the most successful for a summer steam room. To build a frame and walls in a brick or stone bath, you will need silicate brick, shell rock or bottle. Increasingly, cinder blocks began to be used. As for the exterior and interior decoration, the materials can be different.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, skilled craftsmen make the base from a metal container. Construction is going very fast. But there are some nuances here (you need to cut holes for the door, make an additional partition for the steam room itself, and others). All walls are also carefully insulated and sheathed.

Interior decoration the ceiling in the dressing room can be made of wood such as alder, linden or pine. If we talk about the ceiling in the steam room, here experts recommend mounting a lining (it tolerates high temperatures better). It should be from a tree species that does not emit strong-smelling resins (spruce, pine, fir). The best option for this there will be linden, alder, cedar. Under no circumstances should chipboard or fiberboard be used. When heated, they release substances that harm the human body.

Wall insulation also requires special attention. They insulate the bath, as a rule, only inside, but they can also lay the outer layer of this material (into the frame of the building itself). If the building is made of a log house, then the insulation is placed on a lattice frame (crate). To do this, use mineral wool or other organic heaters. In the case of a stone or brick bath, the same mineral wool is taken, but it is laid in a thicker layer (5–6 cm).

In the steam room itself, after a layer of insulation, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid. For these purposes, thick foil or a special self-adhesive three-layer film can be used. It consists of a polyvinyl chloride mesh with two layers of film with small holes for steam removal. For the floor in the steam room, the same wood that was used for wall and ceiling cladding is suitable, and tiles are usually laid in the dressing room. It is convenient to wash and disinfect from fungus and mold.

Important areas

A bath is not just a steam room, but also a place for rest and relaxation. In order to fully restore strength and spiritually cleanse, there must be such zones as a steam room, a change house (waiting room), and a shower. Of course, when the territory is small, there is not enough space for all sorts of extensions, but you can always find a way out. For example, combine functional areas in one room.

A bath without a dressing room is uncomfortable to use, especially if the house is 10–15 meters away. It is necessary so that a person can safely undress, prepare for the procedure. Also, this room plays an important role in the heat balance. The change house helps not to "lose" the heat from the steam room, and also blocks the way for cold air flows into winter time. On top of that, all bath accessories are stored here: buckets, ladles, various gels and shampoos, bathrobes, caps to protect hair from overheating, slippers and much more. Without this room, the use of the bath will be uncomfortable and inconvenient. With sufficient size, you can put a small table there to drink herbal tea, dry and cool down for going outside.

If we talk about a shower, then according to the recommendations of doctors, it must be. Before entering a hot room, you need to prepare your body - take a warm shower. It will be easier for the body to endure sudden changes in temperature, and the pores will open much faster for active sweating and further cleansing. This area does not have to be large (in the form of a shower stall or an installed "standing bath"). One is enough square meter which can be hung with a curtain. In the case when it is possible to make a large and full-fledged bath, then it can be equipped private room under the sauna or put a jacuzzi. It all depends on the preferences of the owner.

The most important thing when building a bath with your own hands is to make it as comfortable as possible for your use.

Mounting technology

By itself, the process of building a bath is simple, if you have a clear plan of action. To get high quality and beautiful building, you need to follow a series of steps step by step.

• Prepare the area for future construction work. This includes clearing the land of debris, digging up shrubs (if any), cleaning up stone boulders, and leveling the surface (it is necessary to remove earthen embankments or fill deep holes). They also make markings for pouring the future foundation.
• Foundation. It may be different in its configuration and type of installation. Masters recommend columnar or pile.
• Building walls and installing roofs. At this stage, walls are being built, insulation is being laid, holes are being made for doors and windows, a roof is being built (it is imperative to leave an opening for the chimney).

• Interior decoration of the premises. It is made based on the chosen style. Doors are installed, windows are inserted. The room is being prepared to accommodate the necessary elements for the steam room and the bath as a whole.
• Installation of the stove and tiered benches in the steam room.
• Arrangement of furniture and accessories.

Strictly adhering to the work plan, it will turn out to build a good bath. Experienced builders advise investing in advance for each stage so that the construction does not drag on for many months or years.

Foundation

In the case when a small bath is planned, it is more expedient and cheaper to make an ordinary strip foundation. The most important thing is to produce good thermal insulation otherwise the floor will take heat from the room. As a result, condensation may form, and then a number of unpleasant consequences.

The creation of the foundation includes several stages.

• Before construction, it is necessary to clean and mark the area. As a rule, 10–15 cm of soil is removed. They mark the boundaries for building with wooden stakes (15–20 cm). A line or twine is stretched between the pegs. The evenness of the corners is checked (they must be exactly 90º).
• Next, the soil is dug along the marked trajectory to a depth of 60–70 cm (the earth can be thrown to the center, it will still come in handy). A layer of sand 10–15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the resulting trench and rammed. Sometimes for greater density it is slightly moistened with water. Following the sand, a layer of granite stone is poured or a brick is laid in one layer. This will be the supporting frame for the crate, which is made of a thick metal rod and also laid in one piece.

• Formwork is made from wooden boards. It will serve as a form for pouring cement mortar. In this regard, the boards should be 40-50 cm above ground level.
• The solution for pouring is prepared in certain proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand and 3 parts of fine gravel. By consistency, it should resemble sour cream. It must be loaded immediately. It is advisable to calculate required amount, otherwise you will get a foundation with poorly connected layers.
• For further work, you will need a construction vibrator, which can be rented. With it, you need to “shake” the poured cement mortar so that all the air comes out and the voids go away.
• The next step is to level the top layer. After 5-6 days, you can remove the wooden sides. In this form, the foundation is left until completely dry and fastened. Masters recommend to withstand 20-25 days before continuing construction. During this time, the foundation must be watered, otherwise cracks may form due to uneven drying.
• Do not forget about special openings for communications (sewer pipes, electrical wiring). At the pouring stage, the pipes should already be in the planned place.

If you plan to build a large bath, and the site has a complex bumpy and uneven shape, then it is better to install the foundation on piles. They come in several types: some are curled, while others are “screwed” into the ground. For a bath, both options are suitable.

Before its installation on the site, similar preparatory work, as with a strip foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the issue of freezing of the earth in winter. Usually these data are verified according to SNiP. Based on the information received, it is purchased metal pipe with a wall thickness of 3–5 mm.

Its length should be the sum of the following values:

• the length of the freezing layer of the earth;
• 40–50 cm for “drowning” of piles;
• 50 cm above ground level.

To make it easier to insert the pipe, it is sharpened. Each element is installed in the ground at a distance of 1 m from each other along the perimeter of the building area. It is very important that the piles are level. To do this, each pipe is leveled using a level (ruler with liquid and a scale).

A square “hat” (625 sq. cm) should be welded onto each pile. At its ends, holes are made for the installation of a reinforced concrete frame. All metal elements must be coated with a solution that prevents corrosion. After that, a layer of sand, gravel is laid and rammed and everything is poured cement mortar strip foundation technology. After installing the foundation, you can begin to install the walls.

Walls

In my own way species diversity walls are:

• frame;
• brick;
• from foam block;
• from a tree log.

For installing frame wooden walls it is necessary to install the base on the grillage (there must be a waterproofing film under it). After that, racks are mounted at the corners of the future bath. They are fastened with metal corners, and for greater strength, jibs are screwed to them (beams standing at an angle of 45º).

A wooden beam is installed every half a meter along the entire perimeter with obligatory oblique struts. Do not forget about door and window openings that do not need to be blocked. Between themselves, the vertical beams are fastened horizontally along one line. After the frame of the walls is ready, they can be sheathed. But before that, all the wood is covered with impregnation from decay and mold (black mold is especially terrible).

Next, a heater, a hydro-barrier film and a facing material are laid. If brick was chosen for the construction of walls, then it is better to take red. It has the most suitable properties - it does not "pull out" heat, as white brick does.

As a rule, the wall is made with two layers of bricks. The beginning of work is carried out from the corners, since the level will be set from them. The layer of bonding cement should not exceed 2 cm. For the convenience of masonry, the masters advise pulling the fishing line as a level. A reinforced concrete lintel is laid in place of the future window and door. Next, the walls are built up to the required height.

The construction of walls from the foam block is carried out in the same way as for bricks. The only difference is that every 4 rows you need to lay metal mesh. It will give greater rigidity and strength to the wall.

The most interesting, from the point of view of work, will be the installation of walls from a log house. It is very important that all trunks have the same diameter (a small error of 1-3 cm is allowed). Before installation, each of them is examined for defects (knots, bark remain), and is also treated with an antiseptic. Further, “holes” of 1 radius are made on each element. At the very first trunks, which are placed at the base, one side is made straight so that they do not “roll”. The next beam fits like a puzzle. In the corners they make a rope binding, starting from the floor itself, and all the joints between the bars are laid with a heater in the form of a tape.

Roof

Following the instructions for building a bath, the next step after installing the walls will be the installation of the roof. This process will not take much effort and time.

There are 3 large groups of roofs:

• flat;
• lean-to;
• gable.

The remaining species are varieties of type groups. Professionals advise installing a shed roof for small baths. If the building is of impressive size, then the functional side of the roof is already selected here (for example, the 2nd floor for a recreation area, made from an attic).

If the walls are built of brick, the first layer (before laying the beams) will be a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. Further mounted wooden frame along the perimeter of the walls with anchors. It will serve as a support for all further structures that make up the "backbone" of the roof. On top is done wooden crate selected form. A heater is “inserted” into it and a vapor barrier sheet is necessarily placed. After these works are completed, you can proceed to the external and internal cladding. Inside, it is better to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard or prepared boards.

Floor

The floors in the bath should be given due attention, as a person has direct and frequent contact with them.

Like walls, floors come in 3 types:

• wooden;
• brick;
• concrete.

Concrete

Brick is undesirable as a floor because of its physical properties (low heat transfer). It gets very hot and can cause serious burns to the feet. The most commonly used, improvised and durable material is concrete. But it should be understood that such a floor is very cold and requires an additional layer of insulation on top.

Installing this option is very simple.

• First, sand is poured onto the finished foundation (at least 15 cm). Next, crushed stone or gravel is laid in a uniform layer of 10 cm. Do not forget about the drain, under which you need to leave space and remove the pipe, and it should go into the gutter or septic tank.
• After laying the “cushion”, the primary layer of concrete is poured 5–7 cm. When it dries, you should start laying insulation (mineral wool, perlite, polystyrene) and waterproofing. A reinforced mesh is placed on top of them.
• When the grid is fixed, you can fill the floor. Masters advise taking the finished mixture, since it is difficult to make it on your own. It is recommended to start work from the corners towards the door. As soon as the floor is dry, you need to start laying floor covering. It can be tiles, laminate and other materials.

Tree

The most practical and comfortable floors for a bath are wooden. They are of two types.

• Passing water through themselves into the drain hole (trellised or leaking). This is the simplest and cheapest option for floors. They do not require insulation material to install. They are made in the same way as a regular floor, only they leave a gap between the floor boards and the floor with a drain hole of 5–10 cm. For this, an additional frame is installed, on which the wooden floor is mounted. The most important thing is to qualitatively process the wood from decay and dampness. As a rule, such a floor is made in the steam room itself.

• Stationary floors (not leaking). Usually they are made in the dressing room or rest room, but they can also be done in the steam room. To begin with, a drainage system is made so that there is a full drain of water. Next, an identical preparation of the floor is done, as in the variant with concrete. Then a waterproofing insulation is laid, and a fine wooden floor is placed on top of it. It is very important to coat all cracks and joints with sealant.

Wiring

It should be noted right away that only the person who has knowledge and skills in the field of electrics can do the wiring on his own. It will be very difficult for a beginner in this matter, even if he follows the step-by-step instructions.

Installation of electrical wiring must be carried out in a strict and clear sequence.

• Grounding everyone metal structures, housings of electrical appliances or gaskets to protect yourself and people from electric shock.
• Connecting the power cable. In rooms where there is no contact with water, it is laid in special plastic boxes. Where there is water or steam, it is laid in PVC pipes.
• Cable routing in rooms with no access to water. From the junction box, a wire is laid along the same plastic gutters. Further, a through hole is made in the wall, where there will be a lamp in another room, and joins it. It also connects to a switch. A metal sleeve must be inserted into the passage for the wire in the wall and filled with a non-burning composition.

• Connecting electricity to the steam room. It is worth noting that it is strictly forbidden to find a junction box and switches inside it. In this room, it is recommended to use low-voltage lighting. Also there it is necessary to lower the voltage of the flow of electricity, for this they use step-down transformers. The cable that will be led into the steam room through a hole in the wall must be heat-resistant. A hole in the wall is processed in the same way as above. It is very important to mark all the cores in the junction box, otherwise it will be difficult to find the cause if the power supply breaks.

• Installing sockets. Their installation is carried out in a similar way. Most importantly, any outlet should be at least 60 cm from the sink and shower. Also, each of them must have a protective plastic cover which keeps them protected from moisture.

When connecting electrical wiring to the bath, you should select a cable according to the equipment to be installed, it is necessary to take into account its power and electricity consumption. All work must be carried out in rubber shoes, dry room and rubber gloves.

Finishing work

Today it is very profitable to do the finishing work yourself. If you order this service in a company, you can get a fairly large amount. Finishing work is a complex of construction activities aimed at the external and internal improvement of the building. The material is selected in advance. His choice should be approached very seriously and responsibly, as under the influence of heat and water, he can emit odors or change shape.

Masters advise doing work in parallel, and not in parts (first the facade, then the steam room, and so on). But there must be a certain sequence. First, the ceiling is finished, then the walls, and then the floor. At the time of the finishing repair windows and a door (at least a rough one) should already be inserted.

Internal (as well as external) finishing is carried out in a number of stages that must be observed.

• All purchased material must be acclimatized. For example, if a tree is chosen for work, then it needs to lie down for several days indoors.
• Installation of the frame on which the cladding will be applied.
• Heater pad.
• Waterproofing.
• Installation of panels (wood, lining and others).

Similar work is carried out from the outside.

External design

The external decor of the bath is just as important as the internal one. It is always nice when the house and the steam room built nearby are in harmony with each other, creating a single style of the site.

How and from what to make the outer skin of the bath depends on such factors:

• General style. The harmony and combination of buildings will always please the owner;
• Sheathing must perform certain functions: weather protection, insulation internal heat, containment of cold air currents.

The walls of a classic Russian bath are usually made according to old traditions - solid logs. This is truly one of the coziest and most pleasant designs. Such walls do not need additional finishing, but sometimes a rope rope is laid along the seams, which is soaked in resin.

To date, there is a large selection of material that can beautifully and quickly decorate the facade of the bath. It can be lining, siding (metal, plastic), fiber cement panels and others.

The most common type of cladding is panel siding. It is recommended to choose vinyl or wood. They are most suitable for the theme of the bath. They must be mounted on a specially installed crate made of timber with laid layers of insulation. Sometimes it is attached with metal profile. Then it is installed in a circle butt to joint.

The second most popular material for external design is - lining. It is convenient in that it has slats of various widths (they can be selected for any building), which can be made of plastic, MDF or wood. The last option is chosen most often. The most important thing is that all boards are well treated with a special solution that protects the material from dampness and decay. Lining made of plastic (vinyl) will also last a long time, but it fades quite quickly due to the action of direct sun rays. But its plus is that it is not afraid of moisture and sudden changes in temperature. The lining is installed in the same way as the siding panels.

If the bath is built of brick, but you want it to look like a wooden one, then in this case you can make a cladding from a block house. This is a finishing lumber that resembles eurolining. It is made using a special technology - 4 boards are cut in a circle from a round tree trunk. The result is boards that are perfectly even and flat on one side, and convex-semicircular on the other. With their help, it is easy to create an imitation of a house built from a log house.

Interior Design

Since childhood, the image of a simple Russian bath has been embedded in the head of every person. As a rule, the interior of this room is entirely made of natural wood (alder, linden), wooden chairs with forged legs at the same table, home-made new brooms made of birch or oak hang on the walls, and most importantly, there is the smell of tree resin, steamed leaves, and soap.

To preserve the atmosphere of a real traditional Russian bath, it is best to purchase wooden furniture.(table, chairs, benches). It is very beautiful when it has carved elements. Homemade knitted or woven bedding is sometimes placed on the seats. They are made with bright ornaments to complement the room with comfort and joy.

It is advisable not to lay a carpet on the floor in the dressing room. It will breed fungus and mold due to high humidity. It is best to use ordinary tiles or wooden boards treated with a special solution. Shelves on the walls will not be superfluous. They are also made from wood. It will perfectly accommodate mugs for beer, a teapot or beautiful brownie figurines. It all depends on the imagination of the owner.

In the steam room, too, should be comfortable. Usually, lighting with a birch bark lampshade is placed in the corners, and forged hooks on the walls that hold ladles and buckets. Buckets can also be in ethnic style. They have carved handles or a metal rim in the middle. On the upper rim of the ceiling is very often installed decorative panel from wood. Ethnic ornament, animals, bathing process and so on are carved on it.

A dressing room or a rest room is also filled with accessories. They are often made on their own, searched for at flea markets or folk fairs. It is easy to find wooden spoons, bast shoes, carved figures of brownies, paintings on birch bark and other accessories there. With the help of them it is easy to add comfort and warmth to this room.

An integral part of the interior of the Russian bath is the smell. Thanks to him, a person relaxes as much as possible and rests entirely (soul and body). Each room has its own scent. In the steam room, it is the aroma of steamed oak or birch brooms. It’s good to put an aroma lamp in a change house, and change it every time to suit your mood.

Style

In the XXI century there is a huge variety of baths. Their main difference lies in the temperature of exposure to the human body, as well as the quantity and quality of steam in the room itself (steam room).

• Russian bath. Steam heating temperature - 40º–75º, humidity about 60%. Thanks to such conditions, the human body warms up qualitatively and deeply, and a high level of humidity helps to quickly open the pores and start sweating. The result is high-quality skin cleansing.

• Hamam (Turkish bath). Here the temperature is slightly lower - 35º-60º, and the humidity is about 85-100%. The conditions in this steam room are more gentle. Thanks to this, you can spend quite a long time here, do various cosmetic procedures (massage, peeling and other procedures). The body warms up gradually, and the skin is constantly moist. Thus, “opening” and steaming of the deep layers of the skin is performed.

• Finnish bath. The difference between such a steam room is that rather high temperatures are used here (120º-150º), and the humidity level is very low (10-15%). In this regard, going to such a bath has a number of contraindications and conditions for staying in it. It is not uncommon for a person's skin to be severely dried out, or burns were received. But at the same time, the body warms up and relaxes very well.

• Japanese water bath. This type of steam room is very specific. A person sits in a barrel of water that heats up to 60º. The skin warms up and steams well, but it does not breathe under water. Due to this, profuse sweating occurs, toxins and toxins are removed from the skin.

How to choose a boiler?

The heart of any bath or any steam room is a heating boiler or stove. Without it, in principle, the functioning of this room cannot be carried out. The most important thing is that the heating boiler can be heated to a sufficient temperature, and therefore have a good thermal power. Additionally, it is necessary that a person can regulate the level of heating with tangible intervals in temperature. All these parameters depend on the material from which the boiler is made, as well as on the competent selection of power and size of the steam room.

Boilers for baths are made of metal. As a rule, this is ordinary or specially treated steel. In more expensive models, its thickness can be 1–1.5 cm. During the long-term operation of such furnaces, the so-called “metal fatigue” may appear. This phenomenon is manifested in a slight deformation of the form. Because of this, the door for filling the fuel may begin to jam, or the welding seams may “spread”. For this reason, masters recommend using cast iron boilers. They are much stronger and have a longer service life.

The main function of the boiler is to heat the room as quickly as possible to the required temperature. This ability in many ways elevates him above the usual brick stove. In turn, metal furnaces can be conventional or long burning. It is better to choose the second option, since such a boiler cools down much more slowly and keeps heat for a long time, and will also save on fuel.

When choosing a stove for a steam room, it is necessary to take into account its design features and human comfort. Each boiler has a door where firewood or coal is placed. In some models, it is located inside the steam room. On the one hand, this is convenient, since there is no need to leave the room to add temperature. But at the same time, the steam room is always humid, and wood or coal is damp from this. It turns out that first the fuel is dried in the oven, and only then it gives the desired temperature. In addition, chips and debris will accumulate from firewood and coal, which can injure steamed tender feet.

The boiler must have a stove. Medium-sized stones are placed there (it can be pebbles brought from the sea). Since they lie on hot metal, they also warm up. During the bathing procedure, water is poured there, and steam is generated, which is so necessary in the steam room.

The heater can be on top of the boiler or located on the side. The side option is better, as the water only hits the rocks. Such steam is considered softer and more correct. Ideally, when this design (reminiscent of a forged lattice bucket) does not touch the walls of the boiler. This is due to the fact that the stone keeps the temperature for a long time, therefore it can deform the adjacent wall of the heater, thereby reducing the life of the boiler.

Most models have a special container where water is heated. It is scooped up with a ladle and poured on stones to add heat to the room. It can be located on either side of the boiler, but it is best if it is hung on a pipe (chimney). So the water will not boil, but it will always be warm. Plus, the risk of scalding a part of the body is reduced.

Particular attention should be paid to the weight and dimensions of the boiler. If the steam room is large, then it should correspond to the size of the room. If the floor is not prepared in advance, then it can simply collapse under its weight. Usually, the future place for the boiler is poured with concrete during the construction of the foundation. When the stove is small, it can be installed directly on the floor, but it is better to lay a layer of bricks, as the wood dries and deforms from high temperatures.

The above are the main reasons why part of the heat leaves the boiler. If you clearly know these data, then the calculations will be more accurate and correct. Then all this information is substituted into the formula. By itself, it is very large, and without knowledge in the field of physics and mathematics, it will be difficult to calculate the correct answer. It is best to come with known data to a specialist. Usually in any store specializing in boilers and heating systems, there is always such a person.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is not to focus on the price, but on the quality and characteristics of the product. Expensive doesn't mean good. It is worth knowing that if almost any part in the boiler breaks down, you will have to change it entirely.

Even experienced master in the field of construction and repair, it will not be easy to build a bath absolutely correctly. As in any other business, there are some nuances and subtleties of the work, and they can only be learned from a person who is professionally engaged in this business.

The first thing that the masters advise is that the construction of a bath is best done in a dry and warm period of the year. This is due to the fact that all solutions, putties and impregnations must dry completely. Otherwise, there is a risk of installing poorly processed wood, which will last only half the prescribed period.

Before starting construction, it is imperative to create a detailed project of the future bath. It should indicate the exact dimensions, the layout of the pipes for the drain and water inlet. For electrical wiring, it is better to make a separate drawing. Based on the plan, it will be easier to calculate the amount required material, as well as a novice builder will immediately understand what work he cannot do without the additional help of professionals. He will be able to budget for the cost of support work from outside.

If you want to build a comfortable and roomy bath, and there is not much space on the site, then it can be made as an extension to the house. Thus, it will be possible to save on the “4th wall” and space.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time, the masters advise airing it as often as possible. Thanks to this, wooden and metal coatings will dry out and not be subject to the formation of mold and fungus.

Beautiful examples

• This example shows that even a small bath can be beautiful and comfortable. There is a small steam room, and plunge into cold water with the heat can be on the street. In the summer, a table and chairs are easily placed nearby, where it will be pleasant to sit, drink tea under the moon and stars.
• Shown here is a spacious steam room, where a friendly company can easily fit. Due to such dimensions, there is a place for a person to lie down to his full height and be steamed with a bath broom, while other vacationers can sit quietly and relax.

A bath is one of the most necessary buildings in a country house or a private plot. Like any other building process, the construction of a bath requires the investment of a considerable amount of finance, from the purchase of material to the payment for the services of builders, which is far from always the case on time.

In this case, it makes sense to pay attention to less expensive projects that are designed for the most economical use of resources.

Despite the fact that inexpensive baths have a less durable structure, with high-quality assembly and proper care, it can last you a long time. Of course, the operational life of the erected structure will in any case be inferior to the standard technology - the lightweight structure of the material will affect, but given its reduced cost, the difference will be fully justified.

In this article, you will be given step-by-step instruction about how to build an inexpensive bathhouse with your own hands. It will describe in detail the process of building a structure from scratch, which will allow you to carry out this event completely independently.

Bath building

As experience shows, the cheapest baths have a frame structure, since they have a lightweight base, the cost of their construction is not so high. The impact of humidity and elevated temperature requires additional waterproofing of the frame and sheathing, but even in this case, the design will cost you an order of magnitude cheaper than monolithic counterparts.

Foundation

Most often, it is built on piles, as this allows you to significantly save material - pouring a strip foundation in this case will be an extra waste of money, since its strength potential is practically not used due to the relatively low weight of the structure.

Mainly for shaping pile foundation concrete pillars are used.

• In accordance with the project, the perimeter of the future building with all internal partitions is marked, after which the location of the bearing piles is marked. The distance between the piles should not exceed 2 m, while under each intersection of the walls it is necessary to place an additional column, since this place creates an increased pressure on the foundation;

• A well with a diameter of at least 25 cm is dug under each pile, the depth of which should be at least 1.5 meters. Half of the well is covered with coarse sand, which must be filled with water and compacted during filling the well;
• After backfilling, an asbestos-cement pipe of the appropriate diameter is immersed in the well, into which a reinforcing frame of reinforcement is inserted and poured concrete mortar . It is important to arrange the pipes in such a way that the upper edges of all piles are at the same level;

• After the piles are completely dry, a metal or wooden grillage is installed on them., which will connect all the pillars into one and serve as the basis for the future design;

frame

The basis of the building is a wooden frame made of timber, which must be well dried and impregnated with a waterproofing compound.

As a material for the racks, a bar with a thickness of 100x100 mm is used.

Note!
In some cases, it is permissible to use a beam with a smaller cross section, but this is permissible only after a professional calculation of the strength potential of the future structure.

• Be sure to have load-bearing elements of the frame at the corners of the building. Intermediate racks are located based on the width of the sheathing material and insulation, however, the distance between them should not exceed 1 m. As a strapping at the base, a board or a beam is used, through which the supporting pillars are combined into a single whole. The same strapping is carried out on the upper part of the supporting elements;

• After the main and intermediate parts take a vertical position, the structure is strengthened by means of jumpers between the pillars, which also play the role of a crate. Then the roof is assembled on the frame - the truss structure is most often used;

Outer skin

Use DSP or OSB sheets as a material for everything external, since they belong to the category of especially durable and moisture resistant materials. The lining of these materials will serve you as long as possible.

They are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws, and the joints must be sealed with polyurethane foam or other suitable sealants.

Note!
The use of materials such as plywood and similar materials based on natural wood is also acceptable, but in this case, care must be taken to protect the coating from moisture.

Wall and roof insulation

To create the proper level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to carefully insulate the space between the outer and inner skin. As a heater, materials such as mineral wool, synthetic boards (polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc.) and natural-based heaters (jute, reed boards, etc.) are most often used.

Regardless of what type of insulation you use, it is important to securely fix it in the cavity intended for it and prevent the formation of gaps between individual sheets, which will later turn into “cold bridges”.

After the insulation is completely fixed, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier on the inside of the building, which is best used as glassine.

On the one hand, it has a heat-insulating layer, and the other side is covered with metal foil, which also effectively reflects heat. Glassine must be installed with foil inside the room.

If possible, the interior of the room is sheathed with environmentally friendly products - wooden clapboard, FBA spruce plywood, etc., as some synthetic materials may emit toxic fumes when heated.

Internal lining with plastic clapboard is considered acceptable, but it is up to you to decide whether it is worth using products of this type. Before you need to install a vapor barrier, as in the previous case.

Floors in a frame bath are best done torrential, as this is facilitated by a raised structure. Ordinary wooden floors quickly degrade under the constant influence of moisture.

Outcome

Inexpensive frame baths will become ideal solution for a small family budget. In addition to the project described for the interior, you can also use inexpensive metal sauna stoves, which will minimize the cost of equipment for the sauna functionality. You can learn more about the information provided through the video in this article.

It all depends on preferences and opportunities. A country bath, for example, is light and cheap, but it will be possible to use it only during the season, so for capital house she is no good. I considered three options for a bath for my house:

• From wooden beam
• From log cabin
• From foam blocks

Log cabin immediately ruled out, given the complexity and high cost of construction.

Building a bath from a foam block will cost less than from a wooden beam, but I had serious arguments in favor of a tree. I give them briefly:

• The house itself is wooden, so a foam block bath would look inharmonious next to it.
• Environmentally, a bath made of timber is much more preferable than a stone one.
• In our area, there are problems with natural wood(pine) for construction is not, and its price is quite tolerable.

Having estimated the cost of construction, I was convinced that I could financially pull a bath from a bar.

What is the best foundation for a bath

Considered the following types of foundations for the bath:

• Columnar
• pile
• Block tape
• Jellied tape

Brief characteristics and prices of each type

1. Pillar foundations are the cheapest. Cement blocks 20 × 20 × 40 cm (4 blocks for each support, 48 blocks in total) with a step of 2.0 m along the perimeter of the future building will cost only 2,500 rubles. Considering an additional 1.5 tons of sand and cement, we get a total amount of about 5,000 rubles. This is where the advantages of such a foundation end. For its device and reliable operation, stable sandy soils without winter swelling of soils. Only in this case the foundation will be stable, and the bath will not “go” in the spring. We also do not forget about the need for additional floor insulation, because. the bath hangs on foundation pillars. Waterproofing the floor insulation is also necessary, since there is a lot of water in the bath. Additional costs, as we see, cannot be avoided.
2. Pile foundations are used in places with complex relief and geological conditions. Waterlogged soils, slopes, unstable soils - these are the reasons for the construction of such foundations. Their cost is quite comparable with the tape ones, which will be discussed later. Given the calm construction conditions, I did not consider this type of foundation.
3. The block strip foundation is used, perhaps, most often. Its use is explained by its relative cheapness (for a 4 × 4 m bath, the cost of constructing a block foundation will be only 8,000–9,000 rubles). At the same time, it is no longer necessary to insulate the floors, i.e. an important item of expenditure is eliminated. The difficulty in construction is perhaps the only one - such foundations are not easy to arrange alone - two people are needed, at least.
4. My option is a flooded strip foundation. It is most convenient for building a bath. The advantages are obvious: such a foundation is quite strong and durable, inexpensive, quickly and easily constructed without special tools and equipment. Formwork and reinforcing mesh are installed in the excavated trench, which is poured monolithic concrete. The section of the reinforced monolithic foundation in the formwork is 40 × 60 cm, the length is along the perimeter of the building. The cost of the foundation for a 4 × 4 m bath is about 8,000 rubles.

How to build a cheap bath in the country with your own hands

I simplified the construction of the bathhouse as much as possible using project marked beams. If you are going to build a bath yourself, then nothing could be easier than assembling such a “constructor”.

The build process looks like this

1. The laying of the first crown is carried out strictly horizontally - do not be too lazy to check this with a level. The beam of the first crown must have a maximum cross section (for structures with self-manufacturing bars is, as a rule, 20 × 20 cm, the next 15 × 15 cm).

2. The crowns are stacked strictly in order and fastened together with dowels made of wood or metal pins. Exist different variants fastenings in projects of baths from a bar, and all of them are quite reliable. The main thing is not to allow amateur performances here.

3. Interventional wall insulation is made with moss, tow or jute. It is preferable to use jute, because after laying it, the gap between the bars will not have to be caulked with tow.

4. Device gable roof(my case) - the next stage of construction, which includes installation roof structure and flooring with a crate and a layer of waterproofing. Shed roofs are used, as a rule, in cases where a bathhouse adjoins a house. complex roofs with multiple kinks, more than two slopes are usually not used in the construction of baths. Under roof attic space can be used for storage, etc. The roof structure rests on wooden ceiling beams, which fit into special cuts in the upper crowns. The size of the cutting should ensure a tight fit of the beam into the beam of the crown.

5. Device window and doorways produced after a six-month shrinkage of the bath, which necessarily includes the winter period. Openings for windows and doors are cut with a chainsaw.

6. Internal finishing work is also done after natural shrinkage.

7. The final stage of construction is a perimeter blind area, the main purpose of which is to protect the lower beams from dampness.

How much does it cost to build a bath

The cost of the bath will depend on many components. In the most general figures, I will give the cost per square meter of baths, which are discussed in the article. The prices shown can only serve as an indication of the approximate level of cost of various materials.

A turnkey log bath is the most expensive pleasure. The undoubted advantage of such baths is a huge selection of projects and ready-made structures for assembly. Specialized firms offer baths designed for different tastes and possibilities. Prices for a bath of logs in the range of 11-17 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m area. The area of ​​such baths is from 16 to 150 sq.m. Given the crisis, manufacturers often make serious discounts. When choosing such baths, I recommend, in addition to prices, to pay attention to the strict observance by the team of installers of the norms and requirements during assembly.

The main advantage of a foam block bath over a log one is the ability to build it yourself. Of course, the price largely depends on the architecture, area, type of foundation, roofing, finishes, etc. The minimum prices for the construction of such turnkey baths start from 10 and reach 30-40 thousand rubles per square meter. m. Building a bath from foam blocks with your own hands will reduce the cost of such a bath by at least half. Thus, the cost per square meter will be from 5-6 thousand rubles per square meter.

From my own experience in building a bath from a bar, I can draw the following conclusions about the cost. The construction of a turnkey bath with the involvement of a team of installers will cost about 10-13 thousand rubles per sq.m. Independent construction will allow you to count on at least 6-7 thousand rubles.

What else you need to know before building

Building a bath on your own is quite possible, but it is not as easy as it might seem to an inexperienced developer. The special operating conditions of the bath place high demands on the materials and quality of work. A beam, for example, must have an ideal geometry and surface smoothness; it cannot have chips, deep cracks, and a large number of knots. The color of the material is natural, without "blue", indicating a fungal infection.

Special skill requires working with natural heaters, quite difficult to build roof structures. If you don't have experience self construction, I recommend turning to professionals, in whom there is no shortage. Many companies and private traders offer turnkey construction of baths. Before choosing a contractor, take an interest in his track record, do not be too lazy to look at the baths he built, talk with the owners.

If you are confident in your abilities and rely only on yourself, I wish you success! And a light steam for you in a bathhouse built with your own hands!