We build a bath from anything. Do-it-yourself bath construction: choice of type, features, equipment. Shed roof for a budget bath

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers In this article, the author shares personal experience for the construction of a log bath with their own hands. The construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations and questions for the author, you are welcome in the comments.

Part 1. Foundation

For the construction of the bath, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter segment. First of all, after preliminary marking, he made a cut of the fertile layer over the entire area of the future foundation. This is required to exclude the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

The area is dominated sandy soil, so the best option would be a height from the base of 50 cm and a width of 40 cm. The outline of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to the improvised corners of the inner and outer perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took cuttings of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, screwed horizontal shelves with protruding screws for attaching the rope from above with self-tapping screws. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching, it will be easier to work with this.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus / minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about how to mark the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared "pit", where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check with the building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level at the highest point of the site 40 cm, at the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs of the log house. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat on both sides of the center line, respectively, by 15-20 cm. This will be required to obtain "shelves" for attaching floor logs and rain tides. In addition, the error is practically eliminated when the logs, due to miscalculations of the foundation, fall outward or inward “hanging” in the air.

The bath is connected to the strip foundation in order to exclude multidirectional shifts of the bath and the furnace. The size of the furnace platform was chosen as 120 * 120 cm, as the average for installing metal furnaces under brick lining.

We start laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten and compact the sand. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after the completion of work, we once again pass the entire base under the foundation with a rammer. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to work, this will not speed up the process much. I have the simplest option: a beam of 100 mm, a sole of 20x20 mm and a handle. Appearance the finished base and hand rammer is shown below.

On top of the prepared site under the foundation, we pour a sand cushion to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site in order to prevent water from entering under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, then take care of additional strengthening of the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when the mixture is supplied can demolish an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case, you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered cake. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist in order to avoid cracks in the concrete. The foundation is periodically watered with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the self-tapping screws, which will also go into work at subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters - veranda; 4x4 meters - rest room; 2x2 meters - washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the ground level, if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in the winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are shown in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of a log house and a roof

For dressing a log house 6x4 meters and a chopped veranda, you will need 25 bags of moss. When buying, make sure that the weight of a bag of compacted moss is approximately 20 kg. Moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal moisture content.

We use “cuckoo flax”, which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “wintering” in the soil and there is no risk of grabbing a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If only sphagnum is fully used, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the strands of moss should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking it is possible to twist the ends and ensure the sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, choosing twigs, foreign plants and cones from it. By the way, if the bump falls into the groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such an effort, which is enough to lift the log and arrange a “cold bridge”. This is how log house installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We punch the place of contact of the log with the roofing material with moss.

Errors were revealed that caused the unwillingness of the cutters to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut with a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit snugly against the body of the log, but in fact there is a void inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will go to the caulk increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the "shabashniks" only do the external processing, no one will break through the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board "inch" on the crate, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
log cabin	1 piece	72000 rubles
Board 50 * 150 six meters	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tile, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additional ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31000 rubles
Steam-Wind-insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Grooved board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glazing composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3

The most simple, but tedious work on caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulks. An iron one with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, a wooden one is made of hardwood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable.

The original view of the groove.

We fill the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not as elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among the inhabitants that there is no need to make the seams dense and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bath is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and firewood consumption will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with a wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with an iron caulk.

The final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and glazing composition to match the color of the log. Special "craftsmen" put logs on only one jute or linen, but this is unacceptable for a bath. If we have constant humidity in the house, then vaporization is welcome in the bath. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and become moldy.

We get logs prepared for grinding.

We especially carefully caulk the corners to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you do not hire specialists, will cost nothing. When attracting "shabashniki" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is filled and compacted in the grooves, we proceed to prepare the log house for painting. At present, the logs look very unpresentable - traces of a planer, chips and pulled out wood chips. In addition, the logs are strongly "tanned" in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require sampling and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the most loose wood, respectively, a high probability of decay and further destruction of the log.

Logging tools:

Bulgarian;
petal emery wheel;
soft brush from a mop;
putty knife.

Bulgarian used the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it withstood all the tests with honor and remained operational even after the passage of 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection equipment - a respirator is enough. Working with a grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a trick on you. One has only to lose vigilance, intercept too quickly to the grinding wheel, and you are guaranteed an injury. I twice went through the same place on my arm - the glove to shreds and the skin torn to the meat.

The grinding wheel was used with grain 80. Through testing and selection, I settled on this value - grain 60 leaves too noticeable marks, and grain 100 clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can use the circle further, but the pace of work slows down, and you just get tired.

Attention bonus! I accidentally found that if a circle clogged with dust and tar is passed over the concrete of the foundation, then the sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is ready for work again.

With no skill and when working with all caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of a wall in a day. The prices of "shabashnikov" fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square, and plus they do not stand on ceremony with consumables. Pay attention to resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then come out even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are changing before our eyes. Faced with the problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the lower log. But with further processing, the cuts grind well, and no traces remain.

Especially a lot of fuss with the corners, the high speed of the grinder and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle does not reach, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When the grinding wheel is almost "sat down", we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it out after a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with mastic on wood. At first I used the color "pine", but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, as it will be painted under it.

After grinding, an interesting structure of the tree appears, intricate patterns run throughout the log. Knots and uneven logs are added log bath a certain fundamentality, and I was even glad when there were especially gnarled specimens.

To get an idea of how the wall would look after painting, I stopped and prepared the logs. According to all the aggregate features (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. Pre-treated with Base, the drying time of which is 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glazing composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and its drying, go over the log manually with a “zero” sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front of the bath, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and appreciate the work of the master.

The drying time of the first layer is 12 hours, to be sure, I survived the day and covered with a second layer. A dark noble matte sheen appeared. Another trick - after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent to a very pale appearance and pass through the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after the coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were processed with a glazing composition No. 11 (white), which favorably sets off the work already done.

The result completely satisfied me, we continue the polishing that we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If the hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest oversight. For example, I, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of the crime, again and again examined his “jamb”. Until it was corrected.

The log cabin is getting more and more beautiful. Do not forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

In the next photo, the logs processed by the Base, and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look a little dark, and I experimented with coloring the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint retains the texture of a sanded log, and I decided on full painting verandas. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. There is brilliance and a certain completeness. By the way, buy "Belinka Azure", as the white "Belinka Top Azure" is intended for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bath, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a Khokhloma painting negative. Pleases the top cross beam - it is a knotty Christmas tree, which gives the structure a look of conformity with the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bath and proceed to the stage of flooring on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the building) does not prevent drops of slanting rains from entering. In winter, snow blowing and its subsequent melting during a thaw is not ruled out. Therefore, we will pay special attention to the conservation of boards and logs, as well as to making the surface of the floors water-repellent along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Floor of the veranda

Boards 50 * 150 set on edge will serve as lags. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the lags in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to somewhat strengthen the structure and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

On the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I bought 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the lag and a margin of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles for shipping. Some boards showed blue and mold, which is easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are affected by the woodworm. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon inspection, I didn’t find more living creatures and calmed down on that - after drying, the wood attracts them little, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant would get a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawn in accordance with their location.

After that, I removed the boards, numbering them according to their location, and started processing the logs. I used a vigorous antiseptic of Yaroslavl production. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Preservation of wood is declared at 45 years old, subject to the impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. We apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. antiseptic yellow color so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of the boards. Previously, on the surface located below and on the sides of the boards, I passed with a petal emery wheel, fixed on a grinder to remove the pile. So we provide better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a circle with a grain of 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid to make potholes and holes, then try grinding part of the board with a clogged circle to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention bonus! To make the floor surface perfect to the touch and pleasant for the feet, walk along the sanded board with a mild soapy solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dried, the risen residual pile will become hard and it is easy to knock it down with a sandpaper even in manual mode.

The boards are laid on logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a "standard" we take an ordinary nail, which we put vertically between the boards.

Since my boards are of natural humidity, they can be somewhat drier, that is, they are likely to warp during the drying process. That is why I decided to use not self-tapping screws for fastening, but screw nails. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for transverse loads and can simply burst. The head of the nail, so that there is no rust and its spread to the boards, is covered with mastic on wood.

See the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin processing them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, that the oil that the Belinka Base penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from moisture. Secondly, the oil tinting and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glazing composition, which does not have high resistance to abrasion, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of the Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and let it dry for another day. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then get Top Azure.

–––––– Half a year has passed ––––––

Since my last story of the past, quite a lot of time, and the construction of the bathhouse was gradually moving forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust scammers. I contacted them twice (assembling the log house and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. He laid the lining in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the pediment turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth, I will leave it as it is.

The pediment is painted in the same color as the bath, a side board with a claim to carving is installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws - 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think that it is quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year, I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with a base coat, the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I think to fix it with a third layer.

So, new season construction baths opened. In autumn, I managed to capture a few fine days with a positive temperature, which finally made it possible to make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out with the formation of a spike on the log. For the window opening, I used a bar 100 * 200, and for the door frame, a bar 100 * 250. At the sawmill, they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks on special order. They took quite ridiculous money - about 2500 rubles with delivery.

On the spot, the beam was sawn into the required segments. The window opening turned out to be clean 50 * 50 centimeters, the door clean 70 * 160. So we really implement the old commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I sawed a groove on the beam according to the size of the spike on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I fixed a rolled insulation 20 centimeters wide on the spike, it seems linen, I don’t remember what I bought. The vertical beam went to the stretch, and horizontal segments were used as struts. The gap from the top pigtail to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for the convenience of installing plastic. Spacers are placed in the door, since during the natural drying of the timber, deformation is possible.

What is planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window, I inserted foam plastic and made markings for the future product with insulating tape.

The door is metal with a heater on a cloth and jambs. In the company where the doors are made, the director is my good friend, we discussed all the details and, I hope, a good product will turn out. By door leaf there will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick. According to the overlay, I will perform aging of wood, I will make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden cross bars. But this is in the future, and now he is engaged in the improvement of the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and quite inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. By tradition, I covered it with the Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary hut. Although the makeshift turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get bored. On the sidewalls I used logs that remained from cutting out openings, on the steps a board 50 * 150. On the base he laid stones from a nearby quarry.

And now about the pressing. Firstly, I spend the caulk inside the log house. The logs have already settled down in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led what it wanted - settled in its permanent place. Accordingly, gaps appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External examination confirmed the good quality of the caulk. Nothing has fallen out, the birds haven't messed up, and the moss is lying as planned. When sawing openings, the moss was packed into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to make out, but it is good to fill cracks with such strips. I made another birch caulk. The shoulder blade turned out to be wider and larger, a two-kilogram sledgehammer perfectly suited it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lay too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is lengthy, but mandatory if you do not want to bathe in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I conducted an audit of the foundation. There are light chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover facade paint. Manufacturer and color not yet chosen. Last year I installed low tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And, thirdly, I will count the snow holders. When last year a crust formed on the roof after a freezing rain, and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, it was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bath warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from Izistim for 58,000 rubles. I chose for a long time, tediously, I read all the reviews and realized that this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the official website of the company, where given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, 130 kg of metal still needs to be thought out how to carefully drag it, especially since I still have no floors and 600 pieces of bricks are stacked on the ground. It turned out that these ovens are made literally right next to me, so I had the honor of talking directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to be adjacent to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm in the same place, in the Izistim company. Just a week later I received the order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full-weight rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

The complete kit includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensate, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The design on the right in the photo is a horizontal pipe section from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel 4 mm thick, made in EasySteam for 4300 rubles.

I bought Kostroma clay brick of grade 150, which is enough for lining the furnace. The geometry of the brick is normal, if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which needs to be mined and prepared somewhere else, since I don’t have any special skills. I bought a ready-made mix "Makarov's Furnace House" produced by Kostroma, Gzhel color. They also have a white clay mix for aesthetes. Pechnikov could not be found - everyone is busy. The cost for the masters starts from 40 rubles for a brick for lining and 60 rubles for a brick on a pipe. You can calculate the cost yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will be delayed.

Part 6. Furnace

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the bath is the oven. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, the legs and ears should be warm even in winter, and not bathe with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time in felt boots so that the legs do not freeze. Secondly, there must be inertia sauna stove to be able to stop heating and steam without running around for firewood while constantly maintaining the desired temperature. It is desirable that the heat in the bath was two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company was chosen with a hinged heat exchanger for heating water.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended for lining with brick, which will simultaneously become a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from metal and a heat accumulator. Before installation, it is required to heat the oven on the street in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the smell of burning when operating directly in the bath. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and blower, which is necessary for sealing. Previously, this was not the case, but the company's managers listen to the recommendations of consumers through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast-iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and at the end of the chamber to reduce the effect of the flame on the walls of the furnace in order to avoid deformation.

For relative thrust, he installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft even with such a pipe stub is quite good, only a slight flow of smoke from the door is observed when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the furnace is connected with the foundation of the bathhouse, reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To start laying, I leveled the surface with cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid a roofing material on the pedestal in two layers, on which I will begin to lay out the brick.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the oven three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary, the filling will not go anywhere.

Brick made by Kostroma, worth 24 rubles apiece. The geometry is normal, there are chips at the corners and edges, so you have to choose on the front side of the furnace. It pricks badly, it is better to cut with a grinder. For the solution, the furnace mixture "Makarov's Furnace House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick perfectly, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, the cost is about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with a nozzle, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and water has to be added quite a lot.

I “sealed” the upper row of bricks at the base of the furnace with mortar, I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the furnace, it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, then he cleaned the solution, refused the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that will draw air from the rest room to the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, the decorative screen around the firebox will interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The design of 130 kg was respected, and two stronger loaders had to be ordered. If for the first time a loader from the category of “legs and a cap” helped me to drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the masters really arrived. They pushed me away and in 10 minutes they hoisted the “piece of iron” to the place of operation.

I put a T-shaped outlet on the furnace to determine the root pipe. The picture shows a rear view, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and then cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me of its absence.

The root pipe will run to the left of the furnace and also stand on a foundation connected to a common belt. We continue laying with the formation of a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the entrance of the T-shaped segment, so we make its sides one and a half bricks, and we also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen, we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is needed for quick warm-up premises. We do not lay the top of the furnace with bricks, we leave space for stones. With the convection doors open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the furnace body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. Doors are hung from the side convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company, they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel box along the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional wire fastening. Small gaps are left along the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The root pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-shaped adapter goes a little to the side. In "Izistim" it was made for me with a margin. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, do not subtract, do not add. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized corners, spurs and couplings per inch, attached to the general structure, wrapping the threads with flax treated with a heat-resistant sealant (red in the picture).

Brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support corner of 50 * 50 mm with an approach to a brick of 8-10 cm. Around the firebox there is a thermal gap of about 2 cm.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange it is even more convenient, the air coming from the rest room to the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly close the heat exchanger with masonry and make outlets for the pipes for connection to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will close them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room, it is planned to lay bricks up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the “fireplace” will go next, so that the hot air from the firebox when it is opened does not go directly to the ceiling, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on a shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe outlets are made. It remains to buy stainless pipes and make connections with a mounted tank.

It's time to blow the pipe. Tying masonry from the steam room. The T-piece is connected to the sleeve through a tee. At the bottom of the tee, a cover is installed that allows you to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen from above. A corner 40 * 40 is taken as supports.

I will close the cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense, there is no other function for these stones. And perhaps I will close the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid hard thermal radiation from a very hot metal.

We continue to build a pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire-prevention distances from the "smoke" to wooden structures. As expected, the front and side walls of the furnace reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to the calculations, the root pipe should pass in the middle between the ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has "grown" to the roof and it's time to make an opening.

And the "face" of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with a pipe cleaning. It is still covered with clay, but it is already possible to understand what I want.

Next, we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled at the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. Bulgarian sawed out a metal tile on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for the subsequent closing of the hole from the rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we bring a sleeve from a stainless pipe into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with only the level, you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually even. "Otter", protection from the rain is made almost half a brick. And now the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its prescribed forms.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and varnished for outdoor work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. It turns out the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will roughly match the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant, withstanding sudden changes in temperature. We got the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

Around the pipe he covered with material that remained from the manufacture of ebbs. Entry on the brick is about 1 centimeter under the "otter". The first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the furnace from clay. Don't use water. So you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and you will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you do not want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, cover the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will no longer heat up the screen with all your desire.

And thirdly, put an umbrella on the pipe in order to avoid rain getting inside.

A little trick: to prepare the solution, take rainwater, thereby you can avoid salt stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some of the nuances. We'll help you take pictures and show you.

To be continued! ( 1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

A bathhouse built in Russian traditions is considered perfect place to cleanse the soul and body. Regularly visiting it, it is possible to maintain health, preserve youth and get real pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bathhouse, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are again popular.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of a primordially Russian bath implies:

creation of an unburied columnar foundation based on boulders, devoid of a base;
the assembly of a log house from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any treatment other than removing the bark and drying;
construction without the use of nails;
plugging cracks with moss and tow;
installation of a floor ceiling;
insulation of floor and ceiling coverings with moss and peat;
waterproofing the structure with resin and shoe pitch;
making a sod or shingle roof;
building a brick oven.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When drafting a bathhouse, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and the washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the bath should be determined without making serious mistakes.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1.8 m² in the dressing room and 1.5 m² in the steam room. The average indicator of the total useful area of a bath for a family is 10 m². At the same time, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less - in the steam room and washing department.

In order to wash in Russian people of any height could, the ceiling should be built at a height of 2.4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that the building will soon sit down

At the planning stage of the building, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing the area for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For a vestibule, 2.32 sq. m

Adherents of traditions are advised to build a bath from high-quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly - it lasts a long time. And the needles are also environmentally friendly and have low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and at the same time interfere with air exchange. The unique property of this tree is considered resistance to various manifestations of the climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

round logs;
whole bars.

Experienced builders advise building a bath from beams, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, the timber construction perfectly manages without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but it is easy to assemble

If you opt for rounded logs, then you can be severely disappointed: a log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a timber building can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying beams, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the specified dimensions, and then make sure that the building materials are of good quality. To do this, do the following:

List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only with beams and bricks, but also:

For implementation construction tasks arm yourself with:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of an object

Construction is taking place in stages:

along the perimeter of the future building and under its load-bearing interior walls create pits for the formation of a strip foundation;
sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench, the finished “pillow” is pressed and watered;
pits are filled with reinforcing bars and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed with cement mortar;
Before pouring concrete from the boards, formwork is being built.
concrete forms the base for a brick oven;
several layers are placed on the platform waterproofing material processed with bituminous mastic;
they assemble a log house, connecting the beams according to the method “at the corners into a paw, and the ends into half a tree without a trace”, laying a heater between them and setting each row at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the dowel;
The corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends in 3 steps
prepare a platform for the floor, that is, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, press it, and then cover with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
crushed stone is covered with sheets of roofing material, adjoining edges for several centimeters;
cement is placed on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby arranging the flow of waste water towards the sewer pipe built into the ground and leading to a separately dug pit;
glued onto a hardened cement screed facing material, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;
Wooden crates on the floor keep your feet from touching the cold floor
floor beams are attached to the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position;
the installed beams are connected with iron brackets to the rafters - thick bars;
fasten rafter legs with each other using ridge bars;
the rafters are covered with a rolled waterproofing sheet and wooden deck- basis for roofing material;
create a ceiling, that is, not bearing walls boards are laid out every 2.5 meters;
over ceilings lay a vapor barrier film and put heat-insulating material.

Finishing

TO finishing work start after the shrinkage of the structure. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic composition.

Interior decoration includes the following tasks:

installation of the crate directly on the walls and ceiling;
laying in the gaps of the crate of insulation and vapor barrier material;
flooring lining or other facing material.

Lining is laid on the ceiling and wall

If the most popular building material for interior decoration baths became only lining, then many materials are in demand for facing the outer walls of the building:

vinyl or metal siding;
plastic lining;
block house imitating the look of a log house;
edged or unedged boards, characterized by a low price.

The material extends the life of the structure

Search for stones for a bath room

In the steam room, it is customary to use igneous rocks. Formed during a volcanic eruption, they are resistant to extreme heat. The igneous rocks that positively affect the energy forces of a person include:

polished or chipped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
talc chloride, which is able to absorb moisture and, evaporating it, create the necessary steam in the bath;
basalt that can withstand high temperatures.

In addition to the benefits, this stone gives aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks can be laid on the stove, which tend to normalize blood composition and improve well-being. We are talking about such stones as:

white quartz, called hot ice, which releases ozone when cooled sharply;
crimson quartzite, the second name of which is the royal stone.

Such a stone is ideally combined with brickwork.

To create steam in the bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

dunit;
serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate cells nervous system, increase immune strength and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from traditions, then it is better to use cast-iron stones - balls produced by industry - as steam generators in the bath. They instantly heat the room and keep warm for long hours. True, cast-iron stones undergo rusting after a short service life and carry no properties useful to humans.

Definitely it is impossible to put stones of sedimentary and siliceous rock on the stove. Their structure is porous, which means that, when cooled sharply, they become covered with cracks and small particles scatter in a zone of one meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using a bath is to create the right temperature. In the steam room, this physical value should be within 55–77 degrees. The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room up to 40 °, and the rest room - up to 20 °.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time and properly, you need to use it according to the rules:

put into the furnace only any dry fuel, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
hold the door combustion chamber closed, thereby avoiding the escape of hot sparks;
do not allow the chimney to glow until it turns red;
do not touch hot surfaces, including the walls of the tank for heating water;
keep the bathrooms clean;
ventilate the bath sectors after each firebox for four hours;
try not to splash water on the glass surfaces in the room (windows and doors);
clean and inspect the chimney for holes at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to carefully care for wooden surfaces. Elements inside the bath, made of wood, are supposed to be coated twice a year with special agents to protect against fungi and decay. External processing wooden walls buildings are recommended to be carried out after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore needs careful maintenance.

In order for the stove of the Russian bath to give the right amount of heat, one must be able to regulate the traction force. To do this, more or less open the door of the chamber for the accumulation of ash. Excessive draft will cause the furnace to heat up too much, and this will bring the equipment out of service. If the force that causes air to enter the furnace is normalized, then the stones in the bath are heated to a standard temperature.

During the combustion of the furnace, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. Firewood consumption can be minimized, and the efficiency of heat supply can be increased, just not completely covering the chimney damper. But this is allowed to be done only after the absolute closure of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

You can get real joy from the construction of a Russian bath. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and labor, but the result causes pride. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on its own.

After building a house on their site, most land owners think about how to build a good steam room there. At the same time, the work is supposed to be done by hand, and the bath should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying such criteria is not so easy, but still possible.

It is hardly worth relying on other people's projects or ordering overly expensive ones. individual plans the buildings. In most cases, a small building is required that will meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.

The foundation is the basis of everything

For most autonomous buildings with little physical load, the following types of foundations are used:

poured concrete;
support-columnar;
on pile-screw supports;
tape-block.

The simplest is the columnar base. It is used both for frame structures and for timber. It starts cheap frame bath built by hand.

For support, cement blocks (cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm are used. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a conditional grid of 2x2 m. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m 2 bath with your own hands cheaply and in stages, as shown with us, you will need about 9 such supports. Each of them has 4 blocks.

Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and laying should be carried out according to the building hydraulic level. First you need to fill a layer of sand under the base and compact it. From this stage, it is possible to provide for the installation of a spillway.

When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the final cost less than the price of a strip foundation. However, for wetlands or soils with a high water table, this solution will be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save on self-assembly without the involvement of third-party specialists or equipment.

It will be cheap to build a bathhouse with your own hands on a strip foundation of blocks. Under a building of 12 m 2, an amount of 6,000 rubles will be needed, taking into account the fact that the laying is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce the cost.

For most types of foundation, care must be taken to have a sand cushion.

Actual building materials

When building walls for a cheap bath with your own hands (the video is on the site), you can use a large number modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:

wooden beam;
wood concrete;
the use of an insulated frame.

In our country, it is enough to use a beam 100 mm thick for the outer walls of the bath, which will be operated from late spring to late autumn. During the installation of the beam, it is necessary to install dowels at least every 0.9-1.0 m. classic size in 12 m 2 it will be enough to stock up on 62 bars. Such a do-it-yourself bath will definitely come out cheaper than its larger counterparts.

In the process, interventional insulation is used. The total amount of these materials will be about 25 ... 30 thousand rubles. If you take it all in a wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save.

When building the cheapest arbolite bath with your own hands, you need to stock up on such an amount of material:

about 20 bags of cement;
a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
sand 2.5-3.0 t;
about 1 m 3 lumber;
enough water.

When pouring a bath from sawdust material, each time 2-3 days are expected for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It should be noted that with this method, the maximum cost of building walls is unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.

When building walls from this material, it will take a lot of time to protect them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.

Construction from wood concrete

In addition to a cheap bath from a bar or wood concrete, you can build with your own hands frame structure. In this case, it will need to be reliably insulated. For a calculated building of 12 m 2 of area, it is necessary to stock up on 3 m 3 of beams. Insulation will also need to be included in the estimate. In a lightweight version, 10 cm of thickness is enough. If basalt wool is used during construction, then the total cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this type of mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.

Floor arrangement

Any bathhouse built with your own hands cheaply and quickly will not do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired schemes tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.

A sand cushion of 150 mm is preliminarily arranged, which can be poured and rammed for better laying.
The base surface is then a 70-80 mm concrete pour.
The top layer is a mesh rail, knocked into a rigid frame. This flooring can be moved and laid at your own discretion.

After every visit wooden frames from the floor it is desirable to dry and ventilate outside the walls of the steam room.

The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.

Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bath, you need to make a drain and take it to the sewer to the street. For the absence of smell, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water seals.

Ceiling work

When working with the ceiling, it is necessary to adhere to certain tricks, only then will it be possible to build a bath with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. It is impossible to use an excessively thin lining to cover the ceiling, this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and dampens. It is necessary to take boards of about 30 mm thickness, which will save on insulation.

Scheme of a quality ceiling

In the old days, a composition of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand even today, when it is necessary to build a bath with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Instead of leaves, sawdust is suitable.

For a project of 12 m 2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling the insulation from the outside, a layer of glassine is necessarily laid.

About 0.7 m 3 will go to a shed roof wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leaking.

VIDEO: Sauna for a summer residence - very fast and very cheap

The most cheap bath- this is the choice for those who want to quickly and without much financial loss build a small but fully functional bathhouse for themselves and their families on their own site. It is clear that the durability of such a building will be noticeably inferior to the service life of classical structures made of timber or blocks, but subject to certain simple rules and such a bath will last at least 7-10 years.

This review will consider the most budgetary, simple and at the same time quite environmentally friendly and comfortable small bath with dimensions of 4x2.5 meters plus a platform 4x1.5 for the porch. The main savings come from minimum investment in the foundation and walls. Since the dimensions are very compact, the weight of the entire structure makes it possible not to use special blocks for the foundation, or even more so to perform concrete pouring.

As a foundation, the cheapest option is poles from old tires. In this case, rubber ramps from the Gazelle car that had worked out were taken.

The photo shows that the tires were laid on roofing material, which spread directly to the ground, but this solution has its drawbacks. The ground at the construction site must be solid, without noticeable elevation changes. In addition, you need to make sure that the area chosen for the bath is not flooded with water during long rainy periods.

It would be optimal, before laying such supports, to level the ground under them. To do this, it is enough to remove the upper fertile layer and cover the site with gravel or crushed stone. Such a solution will additionally protect the floor from all kinds of vegetation that will tend to grow under the building.

Without fail, the first thing to do is to correctly mark all the tire installation points. It is very important that wooden strapping at the base of the bath was made as accurately as possible so that all corners were 90 °, and the beams around the perimeter had pre-calculated dimensions. If you do not make a geometrically correct strapping, then there will be great difficulties with installing the roof frame.

The strapping is made of a beam 150x150 mm, laid on a roofing material, laid over the tires. The dimensions of the grillage along the perimeter are 4x4 meters. The vertical column in the photo, also from a 15x15 cm beam, divides the structure into an interior space and a porch.

Frame and walls

The walls are made of wooden pallets with mineral wool insulation along the entire perimeter. All boards and timber are treated with an antiseptic.

Outside, the tree is sheathed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane. Here it is important to take a vapor-permeable material so that the insulation can effectively evaporate moisture into the external environment.

On top of the windshield, vertical strips are stuffed for attaching exterior trim boards.

For roof protection truss system a vapor-permeable membrane is also laid, on top of which the metal tile is installed.

Exterior finish - unedged board, painted by Belinka. So that in the process of attaching such boards to the crate, they do not crack, you need to use either galvanized nails, or fix the material with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled small holes in the attachment points. Mounting on self-tapping screws without preparation sometimes leads to cracking of the board along the edges.

Interior decoration

The floor is covered with dense foil waterproofing with sizing of all seams with foil tape.

On top of the hydroprotection, a crate for the finishing floor is installed from a board of 150x25 mm. A self-made metal furnace is installed as a combustion unit.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with foil vapor barrier on kraft paper and closed wooden board 100x15 mm on the crate. The lining was not installed for reasons of economy, since the bath is still being built on a budget.

This is what the door looks like from the side of the entrance to the bath through the veranda. The total cost of all materials was no more than $ 1,700. Despite the cheapness of the building, do not neglect the rules of fire safety. The wall near the stove must be finished with heat-resistant sheet material, and the passage of the chimney through the roof is made with indents from wooden structures of at least 10-15 cm on each side.

The space between the pipe and the tree is filled with non-combustible mineral wool, and from the side of the steam room it is sheathed with a metal sheet. This decision was taken from an article that describes in detail the manufacturing technology of an inexpensive frame bath with welded metal trim and dimensions of 4.8x2.6 meters.

A bath is a mandatory attribute of most summer cottages and personal plots. However, often its construction is associated with considerable costs. However, when a small building is being built, which is used only in the warm season, financial losses can be minimized.

Overview of alternative building materials - choose from three

The main expenses that await us during the construction of a bath are the purchase of building and consumables. Therefore, when drawing up a construction estimate, we will think about how these costs can be reduced. The traditional building material for baths is wood in the form of a beam or a rounded log. A little less common are buildings made of brick or sibit, which have proven themselves well. But, unfortunately, the price of such consumables is quite high.

Consider alternative options materials, not so well known, but quite suitable for the quick construction of an inexpensive bathhouse:

Cinder block. It is easy to work with, and its cost is low.
Arbolite (wood concrete). It was widely used in construction in the middle of the last century. Differs in light weight, simplicity in processing, plasticity.
differs in the speed of construction. The price depends on the heat insulator used.

Of these options, the last two are the most acceptable. The fact is that the classic cinder block can hardly be called an environmentally friendly material. Of course, modern manufacturers reduce its danger to a minimum, but this applies only to large companies. But health is not something you want to risk. A lot has already been said about frame baths. Therefore, further we will talk about how to build an arbolite bath.

A strong foundation is the key to the durability of the building

The owners of dachas and country houses tape, monolithic, screw foundations and options on support posts are popular. Each of these options has strengths and weaknesses. For example, it is quite possible to make a strip base with your own hands at no extra cost, but it is almost impossible to equip it in areas with complex relief. In addition, concrete (the main component) gains strength for at least 14 days, and ideally a month. There is no need to talk about efficiency.

A monolithic foundation can withstand significant loads, but at the same time it is subject to the same disadvantages as a strip foundation - it is difficult to equip it in swampy and uneven areas. Not to mention the price. The cost of such a foundation does not differ in availability. But you also need to take into account the cost of logistics. One of the most affordable are the foundations on the supporting posts. Yes, the device of such a foundation will require a minimum of labor and cash costs. However, like the previous options, it is undesirable to use it in areas with watery soil.

Screw piles are considered equal in cost to strip foundations. You can agree with this opinion, if you forget about the associated expenses. To install metal piles, you do not need to order and pay for the delivery of concrete, spend money on a reinforcing belt, sand and gravel for a pillow. But, perhaps, the main advantage is that you can install a screw foundation in one day without outside help.

Such piles are blamed for their inability to withstand significant loads. But our task is to build a bathhouse as quickly and with minimal cost. For us screw piles – best option.

We install a screw foundation - a step-by-step description

Let's start with a description of the pile itself. This is a steel pipe equipped with a tip and blades at the bottom. The dimensions of the pile depend on the required depth of screwing into the ground, but cannot be less than 2.5 meters. The body of the pile is coated with an anti-corrosion solution. After twisting into the ground, the pile is crowned with a square head (50 × 50 cm). It is fixed with welding machine, after which the seam is protected from corrosion. It is on this head that the support beam (channel) will lie, from which the construction of the bath will begin.

Device work screw foundation starts with markup. The proverb "measure seven times - cut one" is more relevant than ever. The number of piles depends on the dimensions of the future building, but the distance between them cannot be more than 3 m, and preferably 2–2.5 m. After marking and cleaning the construction site from debris and foreign objects, we invite assistants and proceed to screwing the pile:

In the marked place we make a pit with a depth of no more than 30 cm and install a pile in it.
We align the pile vertically, pass scrap through the mounting eyes and begin to screw the pile.

Of course, the length of the crowbar will not allow you to create an effective lever. Therefore, we extend it with pre-prepared pipes, preferably square section- They are more rigid. average speed deepening - 20 cm per pile turn. We stop screwing when the metal lever is deformed. But at the same time, it is important that the pile goes below the freezing point. The minimum distance from the ground surface to the pile tip is 1.5 m.

After deepening the piles, we check their elevated edges - they should be on the same level. If necessary, we make corrections with the help of a grinder. We complete the work by pouring into the cavity of the pile cement mortar. This will give it additional rigidity and prevent corrosion. The final stage, when working with piles - installation of strapping. For a bath from wood concrete, we make it from a metal channel, welding it to the heads. For a frame bath - a beam drawn with bolts is enough. A mandatory requirement in both cases is the use of a building level, the horizon must be even, because the quality of the walls and roof depends on it.

Arbolite blocks - features of material and construction

Theoretically, you can make wood concrete blocks yourself. To do this, you need a vibrating table, molds for blocks, cement and leftover lumber (sawdust, shavings). However, given that the cost of such material is low, it can be purchased at a hardware store. This material combines such important characteristics for a bath as good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. In addition, we do not forget about the safety of this material for human health.

Today, you can hardly find baths with a combined steam room and sink. As a rule, the layout provides for a separate steam room, sink and room. Drawings drawn up before construction will allow you to choose optimal dimensions and number of consumables. There are two technologies for building walls from wood concrete - monolithic and from blocks. The first involves the preparation or purchase of an arbolite solution. Let's say right away that pleasure is not cheap, but with self-manufacturing it's still long. Therefore, we turn to the second option - block construction.

By and large, this method does not differ from working with brick, sibit or cinder block. The layout begins with the installation of corner blocks, after which a thread is pulled between them - a guideline for masonry. Adhering to the line given by the cord, lay out the first row. Next, we check its horizon with a building level. If necessary, we correct the flaws and proceed to laying out the second row.

Please note that, unlike the same sibit, no special glue is required for laying wood concrete blocks - it is quite possible to get by with the usual solution of sand and cement. However, there are also similarities. For example, when laying out door and window openings, you need to lay a corner or channel on top. So, we raised the body of the future bath, it remains to build a roof, install a stove and finish interior spaces.

Gable roof - roof and ceiling in a single complex

Among the variety of roofs various types(Gothic, hip, oriental) we will focus on the gable. The explanation is simple - this design is simple, reliable and relatively low price. From building materials for the construction of such a roof we need:

Beam 100 × 100 mm - from it we will make a Mauerlat, vertical racks and stops for them.
A board 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide - blanks for the truss system.
Unedged boards and laths for lathing.

In addition to lumber, we will prepare a vapor barrier film, mineral wool, roofing material. As the latter, we use a metal profile - it is easy to work with, and it is relatively inexpensive. We start with the treatment of wood with an antiseptic and fire-fighting solution, in the bath - this is a mandatory requirement. Then we lay a waterproofing layer along the upper perimeter of the walls. And only after that we proceed to the installation of the truss system.

It begins with the laying of a bar - Mauerlat along the perimeter of the walls. Naturally, all corners are checked with a building corner, and the horizon - with a level. After the mauerlat is leveled, we attract it to the walls with anchor bolts. The next step is the installation of tie beams. They are attached to the long sides of the Mauerlat "in the paw". That is, we need to cut out the corresponding grooves in the beams and the beam (base). After laying the wooden parts, we additionally fix them with nails or staples. It is desirable to maintain a distance between the beams of 1.5 meters.

Having finished with the preparation of the base, we expose vertical racks at the ends of the building. We immediately attach temporary slopes to them (they will give rigidity to the structure) and rafter legs. We connect the racks with a beam - a run, the rest of the rafter legs rest on it. By the way, release them 20 cm from the wall - this will reduce the impact of precipitation on wood concrete. After installing the rafters, we stuff an unedged board on them as a crate, lay a vapor barrier film on it. It is attached with a construction stapler.

The final stage in the construction of the roof is the laying of roofing material. Metallic profile is pressed against the crate with roofing screws. Having closed the constructed circuit, we have already completed 70% of the construction. It remains for us to hem the ceiling and finish the walls inside the bath.

Interior decoration - PVC panels or lining?

Among the budget finishing materials select PVC panels. They have proven themselves well in the decoration of the rest room and washing facilities. It's a pretty decent alternative. ceramic tiles. You can choose such material for every taste and budget. But only for washing. In the steam room, it is better to turn to the traditional lining made of linden - it will not melt when exposed to high temperatures.

It is noteworthy that wall cladding with clapboard and panels is performed almost the same way. In both cases, we need to mount wooden crate. Metal carcass, which causes corrosion, is unacceptable in this case. On stuffed and aligned wooden base we mount wooden (in the steam room) and plastic (in the sink) panels.

Keep in mind, from stove to wooden surfaces the distance should be at least 0.5 meters, but this can be reduced to 25 cm by protecting flammable surfaces with non-combustible material.

The final step before installing the oven is the installation of the ceiling. To do this, you can use lining or planed boards. We nail them to the tie beams and go up to the attic, we need to insulate the ceiling. Boards hemmed from below and tie beams formed the floor of the attic. We cover it with a vapor barrier film and fill it with mineral wool. In order to save money, we will use not ready-made mats, but crumb mats, which can be bought as residual raw materials at enterprises producing sandwich panels and similar products.

The only caveat when arranging the ceiling is to install a 40 × 40 cm metal box at the exit of the chimney. It will be required in any case, regardless of which furnace you prefer - metal or brick.