Do-it-yourself insulation of the inner wall of the loggia. Warming of a balcony and a loggia - materials, technologies and tips Phased warming of a loggia

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material - the key to the effectiveness of ongoing activities.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions below will tell you how to choose suitable material for warming.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of ​​​​the room will be saved.
2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inward heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are related, they specifications differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires acceptance additional measures for ventilation of the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-preserving properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

1. Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulation layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for internal works, care must be taken to protect it carefully.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is fine here, too, since in the production of insulation they refused to use freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehydes;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material- wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material) it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
3. Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the fracture site, which are also easily separated, then in front of you packaging material. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, the market building materials there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, cotton wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

In order for you to understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. silicate brick you will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

1. Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is less than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction works, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all necessary information to choose a suitable insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

The balcony is the most vulnerable room in the apartment, which often suffers from severe frost and wind. And if earlier it often served as a kind of pantry, storing all the necessary (and often even unnecessary) things, now many people are turning the loggia into a full-fledged room.

The only difficulty that residents face is that it is almost impossible to be on the balcony in winter - frost and strong wind create a beautiful picture outside the window, but a cold atmosphere on the loggia. However, today this problem can be prevented. A huge number of thermal insulation materials make it easy and quick to insulate the balcony with your own hands.

Preparation for warming the balcony

In any repair or construction process, everything begins with the preparation of surfaces and territory. Therefore, before how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, you will have to get rid of all the trash that is there. By the way, things that you still plan to leave afterwards also need to be moved to another room.

After the balcony is completely cleared of unnecessary things, you need to fully inspect the room. First, it is important to understand which parts of the loggia require more thorough insulation. In addition, you need to pay attention to cracks and chips that allow cold air to pass through.

Important! Some balconies have a rather small area. And the thermal insulation material takes up the space of the room. In this case, it is better to immediately determine the so-called "cold" and "warm" zones of the loggia and insulate only those that are more susceptible to frost and wind.

Balcony parapet especially needs to be insulated

Right now it is desirable to get rid of significant defects on the surfaces. Large gaps can be filled with putty or mounting foam.

At the same stage, you should decide on the type of insulation for the balcony and stock up on all necessary tools. We will talk about thermal insulation materials a little later. And now let's look at what tools you need in order to insulate the balcony.

Balcony insulation tools

Insulating a balcony with your own hands is a fairly simple and understandable process. The main thing is to understand the sequence of work and stock up on the necessary tools. These include the following basic materials:

1. insulation in required quantity(the calculation takes place in accordance with the number of layers and the area of ​​​​the balcony).
2. Facing material for external finishing.
3. Mounting foam.
4. waterproofing materials.
5. adhesive mixtures.
6. Wooden or metal beams(for the frame).
7. Dowels, screws, nails of different sizes.
8. Metallized adhesive tape for sealing seams.

In some specific cases, you may also need:

• drill;
• perforator;
• scissors;
• hammer;
• building level;
• rollers;
• spatulas, etc.

Everything here will depend on finishing loggias.

Balcony insulation restrictions

Since the process of insulating a balcony is highly complex, in order to carry it out, you will need to obtain permission from some authorities. After all, some methods can greatly increase the load on the building itself. As a rule, you should contact the government agencies involved in housing redevelopment for confirmation.

Also, do not forget that the warming of the loggia is a rather noisy process. So better warn your neighbors about upcoming repair work Oh. This will help avoid many misunderstandings in the future.

However, even after obtaining permission, you cannot dispose of the balcony as you wish. There are some prohibitions that apply to the insulation of the loggia. So, for example, you can't:

1. Take away bearing walls and partitions.
2. Install on the balcony water heating.
3. Turn the balcony into a bathroom (due to the lack of necessary pipes in the loggia). Organizing a kitchen on the balcony is a more realistic solution. However, it requires additional permissions.
4. Change the height of the ceiling on the balcony.
5. Violate the original architectural appearance of the building.

The better to insulate a balcony: the main materials for insulation

To date, there are a huge number of options than to insulate a balcony from the inside. The choice of one or another option may depend on many factors:

1. How much are you willing to spend on insulation?
2. climate.
3. Building type.
4. your personal preference.
5. Material resistance to frost, wind, moisture.

One way or another, before proceeding with the insulation of the loggia, it is important to study in detail all the popular materials. This is the only way you can choose the option that suits you best. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the most common heaters.

It is made of clay, therefore it is considered an environmentally friendly and safe material. Expanded clay is a small and light porous granules. A similar weight and structure of the material can be achieved thanks to a special clay firing technology. The raw material is first heated to about 1000 degrees, as a result of which voids are formed inside, providing heat and sound insulation. Expanded clay is used to insulate walls, floors, ceilings or even the foundation of a country house.

Mineral wool

The most common insulation for walls and floors. Outwardly, it resembles a thick canvas, which consists of many randomly intertwined molecules. The raw material for mineral wool is glass, rocks or slag. In order for the fibers to be securely connected to each other, they are impregnated with special mixtures based on oils and alcohol. Mineral wool itself is divided into several other types:

• glass wool (consists of glass, stove and limestone);
• stone wool (made from basalt rocks);
• slag wool (produced from blast-furnace slag).

Styrofoam

Perhaps the lightest thermal insulation material. It is a foamed mass, which is more than 90% filled with air. It is thanks to this technology that it is possible to achieve a good result and qualitatively insulate the balcony. The popularity of polystyrene foam as a heater is also due to the large choice of material. It is divided into the following categories:

• sheet;
• polystyrene in balls;
• extruded polystyrene foam (which we will talk about a little later);
• liquid foam;
• foam formwork.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Today, many people prefer to insulate the balcony with polystyrene foam. This material is a subspecies of foam and is also characterized by low weight and good thermal insulation properties. Comparing polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, it can be noted that the materials have both common features and some differences. For example, the texture of the latter is not granular, but more even.

polyurethane foam

The basis for polyurethane foam is a subspecies of plastic, which has a foamed structure. Like some previous heaters, this material is 90% composed of a gaseous substance with which all its cells are filled. The use of various technologies helped create several types of polyurethane:

1. Elastic (in other words - foam rubber), which fills sofas and armchairs, and is also used to make washcloths, shoe linings, etc.
2. Rigid - actively used for heat and sound insulation at home.

Penofol

It is one of the most innovative heaters for the balcony. This material consists of several layers:

1. Polyethylene foam self-extinguishing.
2. Aluminum foil.

Unlike previous heaters, penofol is not able to absorb heat. Thanks to the foil, it works according to a different principle, namely, it reflects thermal radiation. The material, in turn, is divided into several types:

1. Type "A" - the foil is on one side of the insulation.
2. Type "B" - with foil on both sides.
3. Type "C" - with a special self-adhesive insert.

Balcony heaters - comparison table

As you can see, there are a lot of materials for insulating a balcony. To determine which option is right for you, we recommend comparing all of the above categories:

TYPE OF INSULATION	ADVANTAGES	FLAWS
	Affordable cost. Long service life. Resistant to mold and mildew. The ability to take the necessary form. Light weight.	Increased degree of moisture permeability. Pretty complicated setup. Expanded clay is used primarily for floor insulation and is not suitable for other surfaces.
mineral wool	Low thermal conductivity. Compliance with all regulations fire safety. Unaffected (deformed) by sudden changes in temperature, heating and cooling. Resistance to chemical and mechanical damage. Vapor permeability. Easy to install.	Moisture permeability (which can be reduced with special water-repellent agents). Big weight.
Styrofoam	Low cost compared to other heaters. Light weight material. Good thermal insulation properties, allowing the use of a thinner layer of insulation. Versatility (suitable for floor, ceiling and wall insulation). Long service life (up to 30 years). Resistance to the appearance of harmful microorganisms. Easy to install.	Release of toxic substances during combustion. Bad vapor barrier. The release of harmful substances even when high temperatures(applies to cheaper options). Absorbs moisture. Not resistant to mechanical and chemical damage. Attracts rodents (some even equip minks in foam).
Styrofoam	Low vapor permeability. Material strength. Lack of water absorption, which allows the use of expanded polystyrene without prior waterproofing. Low degree of thermal conductivity. Compliance with all fire safety requirements (incombustibility). Resistant to high and low temperatures. Environmental friendliness. Easy to install. Resistance to mechanical damage.	Bad vapor barrier. High material cost. Reluctance to act sun rays(corrected by special processing of the material). Additional costs for the arrangement of the frame or the purchase of glue.
polyurethane foam	Mounted on any material (concrete, metal, glass, wood, brick, etc.). Light weight that does not weigh down the surface. Able to significantly strengthen the surface. Resistant to sudden changes in temperature, extreme heat and frost. Compliance with all fire safety requirements. Thanks to the one-piece construction, no seams or joints appear on the surface.	Not resistant to sunlight. Although the material does not burn, it begins to smolder strongly in an open fire. Therefore, you should not install polyurethane foam in rooms with a high risk of overheating or fire.
Penofol	Versatility. The material is used to insulate the walls of the floor and the ceiling of the balcony. In addition, it is great for both indoor and outdoor decoration. Low vapor permeability. Provides high-quality sound insulation. Light weight and fine structure. Easy to install. Environmental friendliness. Compliance with all fire safety standards. Rodent resistance.	Due to the high softness, penofol is not used for wall insulation under plaster. Some types of penofol require fastening with special glue. It will not be able to protect against severe frosts and is installed mainly as an additional insulation.

Ceiling insulation

If you plan to insulate the balcony with your own hands, then it is best to start from the ceiling and move further from top to bottom. Of course, if the ceiling of your loggia is the floor of your neighbors, then the process of protecting the room from frost and wind is much simpler. However, if the roof is independent, then a little effort should be made to insulate it.

For the best protection of the balcony from cold and wind, we recommend that you perform work in the following sequence:

1. Spraying or special film for sound insulation.
2. Balcony ceiling waterproofing. In this case, the most popular materials are PVC or polyester.
3. The special membrane protecting from wind. It freely passes the steam that is released from the insulation, but it helps to completely isolate the ceiling from the wind and drops that can enter the room with it.
4. Anti-condensation material that protects the insulation from the formation of water droplets.
5. Frame (metal or wood of your choice). The crate is an optional element. Insulation can be installed using special glue. The main thing is to make sure that the mixture does not contain toluene. For greater reliability, when fixing the sheets, use dowels.
6. Insulation for the ceiling of the balcony. We recommend that you use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. They provide good protection from the cold and are easy to install, which is especially important when insulating the balcony ceiling.
7. Vapor barrier for insulation. It does not let water vapor inside, due to which the thermal insulation properties of the material are significantly increased.

We warm the floor on the balcony

The initial stage of warming the floor of the balcony is the installation of waterproofing on the surface. Polyethylene or penofol will do an excellent job with this role. Be sure to hide all the joints between the sheets with adhesive tape. This way you can be sure that the balcony is protected from moisture as much as possible.

Advice: If you are using single-sided foam (type "A"), install it with the reflective layer down.

Another popular option for waterproofing the floor on the balcony is bituminous mastic. However, do not forget that such material dries for about 24 hours.

After waterproofing, you should install a frame or in another way - logs. To do this, use wood or metal. The main thing is to choose the highest quality material that can last for many years.

Advice: If you are installing wooden beams, make sure that the moisture in them does not exceed 12%. Also for that. To prevent the appearance of fungus, we recommend that you treat the beams with an antiseptic or a special primer.

The bars are laid at a distance equal to the width of one sheet of insulation. As for the height of the beams, it is usually 10-15 cm. Ordinary mounting foam is used to prevent gaps that appear between the logs and the balcony wall.

After installing the lags, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation. Make sure that there are no even the smallest gaps between the sheets (or plates) and the frame. Otherwise, your work will not bring the desired result. In some cases, the insulation is laid in several layers (for greater protection). Then it is important that the seams between the plates are not in the same place. That is, you need to lay the material with a slight offset.

Wall insulation

In the process of insulating the floor on the balcony, it will not be superfluous to immediately take care of the walls. So, for example, making out a waterproofing layer, sheathe the entire room around the perimeter with it. This will make your future work much easier.

1. Create a crate of wooden beams. The distance between them and the width of each beam should be related to the dimensions of the insulation.
2. Install thermal insulation material. Most often chosen for walls traditional options- mineral wool (or glass wool), polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, penofol (or isolon). For greater reliability, we recommend combining several thermal insulation materials (for example, foam plastic and mineral wool).
3. In the presence of cracks and large seams, polyurethane foam is used. With its help, you can reliably protect the balcony from cold and wind.
4. Do not forget to install a vapor barrier on the insulation.

Important! Most often, the wall that connects the balcony and the room (living room, kitchen, etc.) is insulated with one layer. At the same time, at least two layers of insulation should be installed on the outer walls, or a denser heat insulator should be used.

How to insulate windows on a balcony?

If you want to insulate the balcony from the inside as efficiently as possible, in no case should not forget about the windows. After all, even the highest quality thermal insulation materials for walls, ceilings and floors will not bring any benefit if the wind breaks through the cracks in the window opening.

If all this time your balcony has not been glazed, you should pay special attention to the wall that protects it from the street. The parapet (namely, this is the name of this wall) must be strong enough to withstand the frames and double-glazed windows. In some cases, it is better to further strengthen this part of the loggia. There are two options for strengthening the parapet:

1. brick. The simplest method, which, however, is not particularly reliable and durable.
2. Reinforcement with steel bars. Use thick iron bars and cement. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but several times more reliable.

Before glazing the balcony, it is necessary to choose the material from which they will be made window frames. Of course, the most popular today are PVC structures. However, some modern manufacturers make wooden or aluminum frames, which are in no way inferior to plastic ones (except that they are more expensive).

Classic wooden frames are practically not hermetic. Therefore, with their help it will be impossible to insulate the balcony. Therefore, they are best used in areas with a warmer climate.

As for aluminum structures, they are able to retain heat much better than wood. In addition, they are also resistant to rust and corrosive processes. However, the most the best option(if the criterion is the price-quality ratio) are plastic windows. They are not afraid of high humidity and temperature changes. In addition, such structures are distinguished by good thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you want to insulate the balcony, choose PVC windows. The most common types of structures today are:

• hinged windows;
• windows with two-chamber sash;
• extended profiles.

Panoramic PVC windows

Advice: If you do not have the time or financial ability to update the balcony glazing, you can try to insulate the opening with special materials (mounting foam, foam rubber, etc.).

Additional methods for warming a balcony

If you live in an area with a cold climate, one heater on the balcony may not be enough. After all, even the highest quality heat insulators are sometimes not able to protect against severe frosts. Therefore, on cold winter days, additional insulation of the balcony can be arranged.

For example, install an ordinary electric heater. For greater effect, it should be placed near the wall connecting the balcony and the apartment itself.

Important! Never place a heater near windows. The condensate that will be released during the process can greatly damage the double-glazed window.

If you do not want to install additional heating devices, and it is strictly forbidden to carry out central heating on the balcony, you can install a "warm floor" system on the loggia. It will last for decades, creating a comfortable temperature even in the cold season. In addition, today many such systems are equipped with a special thermostat that helps you choose the most optimal mode.

Another option for additional insulation is air conditioning. In addition to the fact that he will heat the loggia in winter, he will also be able to cool the air in summer days. However, the use of an air conditioner has one rather important disadvantage - it will not be able to heat the floor on the balcony with high quality. Therefore, the warm floor still wins.

Advice: Installing underfloor heating is another cost item. You should not rely only on your own strength, since installing the system is a rather complicated process. It is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Protecting the room from cold air and strong wind, do not forget that it is also important to organize good ventilation on the balcony. With hermetically sealed gaps, this will be a little more difficult. Therefore, we recommend that you periodically ventilate the loggia for a more comfortable stay on it.

If you live in a cold climate, pay attention to the ventilation system of the “breather” type, which supplies purified air from the street, preheating it to the temperature you need.

Common mistakes when insulating a balcony

Organizing the insulation of the balcony on your own, you can not take into account many important nuances. As a rule, people make fairly predictable and common mistakes, including:

How much does balcony insulation cost?

It is quite difficult to calculate in detail the cost of warming a balcony. Since this process includes many stages. Especially today, with a rather unstable exchange rate, prices for materials and works of craftsmen are constantly changing.

But in any case, you can make an approximate cost of warming the loggia. The main thing to remember is that the final amount can change in any direction (although, as a rule, it only increases in the course of work). Therefore, when allocating money from the family budget, it is better to take a little more than what is written in the estimate.

The total cost of internal insulation of a balcony consists of the following separate items of expenditure:

1. Balcony glazing. Most often it is the largest percentage of the total amount. High-quality double-glazed windows and their installation will be quite expensive. But the effect of them will be much more noticeable than when using cheap options.
2. Heater cost.
3. The price of other building materials (wood for logs, mounting foam, glue, etc.).
4. The cost of the work of professionals (if you plan to order the services of masters).
5. The cost of finishing and filling the balcony (finishing materials, furniture, etc.).

When insulating a balcony, it is better to choose only quality materials and use the services of glazing professionals you trust (regardless of the cost of their services). The only expense item that you can save on is the services of loggia insulation masters. With full glazing of the room, you can sheathe the balcony with insulation yourself. And since the work of masters is expensive, you can save from 5000 hryvnia and more.

Warming the balcony with your own hands is a rather laborious process. However, with a little getting used to, you can do all the work without resorting to the help of professionals. Thus, you will be able to save an impressive amount and at the same time make the loggia warmer and, as a result, more comfortable.

You can choose a suitable insulation for a balcony from the following list:

• mineral wool;
• foam plastic with a density of 25-35 kg / m3;
• extruded polystyrene foam (aka foam polystyrene);
• thin foil insulation made of polyethylene foam (penofol).

It is impossible to say unequivocally which of the listed materials is the best, each of them has its pros and cons, as well as installation features. If you take mineral wool, then a vapor barrier device will be required to protect it, otherwise the open pores of the fibers will be saturated with moisture from the room, as a result of which the thermal insulation properties of the material will be lost. But basalt wool absolutely does not burn and does not even smolder when exposed to an open flame.

Styrofoam beats all competitors with a low price and good resistance to moisture, but it quickly ignites. If the cotton wool had to be protected from vapors, then the foam plastic would have to be isolated as much as possible from an accidental spark. In this regard, expanded polystyrene and foam plastic behave much better, which does not burn on its own, but simply melts from heating. At the same time, these polymers have the lowest thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not perceive moisture.

It is better to use materials like penofol together with more serious heaters, since their own resistance to heat transfer is small due to their small thickness. But as a vapor barrier and additional cladding when insulating the walls and ceiling of the balcony, penofol is just a godsend.

What is the best way to insulate a balcony? Each material that will be used as thermal insulation has advantages and disadvantages. In addition, when installing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the features of this process and the nuances of operation.

Materials for thermal insulation can be bought in specialized stores. When making a choice, consider the main purpose of the product.

Today, thermal insulation on a balcony can be done very quickly; penofol is widely used in work. It is only suitable for indoor renovations. Having a special protection on the one hand, the material is able to effectively reflect heat. The substrate, located on the other side, acts as a heater.

Polyfoam is suitable for both outdoor work and for thermal protection from the inside. A feature of the material is that the foam can be put under the plaster. It is suitable for the device wet facade. The plates must be closed with a reinforcing mesh, it is applied special compound suitable for finishing. After it dries, the surface is painted.

Reinforced and extruded foam.

Remember that when insulating outside, work cannot be stretched out for the winter season. But the insulation of the balcony with your own hands from the inside can be done in winter. Styrofoam has 1 disadvantage that must be considered: it deteriorates in direct sunlight.

Materials for warming the balcony from the inside can be different. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation performance. But it must be laid together with a layer of waterproofing, do not forget about the vapor barrier.

Formation of a vapor barrier.

Warming the balcony with mineral wool with your own hands can be done in a few days. Pay attention to the quality of installation work, there should be no cold bridges in the room. Mineral wool can be placed on the floor, walls and ceiling inside the balcony to keep it warm in winter.

Mineral wool.

Penoplex is a bright orange material that belongs to extruded polystyrene. It is not at all difficult to insulate with such material with your own hands. It is very dense, great for thermal insulation of floors and finishing work outside. On top of the foam, which was laid on the floor, a screed is made. This material is 1.5-2 times more expensive than polystyrene, which must be taken into account when planning estimates.

Penoplex.

When choosing a material, consider your experience in construction. If a number of heaters can be laid on their own, then others require professional installation.

It is problematic to make the insulation of the balcony outside on your own. The process is best entrusted to professional climbers. When choosing materials in the store, take into account performance characteristics. In addition, the complexity of the installation work must be taken into account.

Step by step instructions will help you do everything right. The process of warming the balcony from the outside consists of the following steps:

1. Buy a primer and apply it to the surface.
2. Glue foam or sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Consider the wind load, fasten the sheets to the dowels-fungi.
3. The thermal insulation of the balcony must be covered with a reinforcing mesh, it must be fixed with recessed dowels.
4. Cover the reinforcing layer with glue, apply 2 layers. When it hardens, take a good spatula, remove streaks and bumps. After that, everything is ready for finishing work.
5. Paint the balcony or apply facade plaster.

For high-quality insulation from the outside, you can buy mineral insulation for the balcony. Basalt wool has proven itself well, it is produced in slabs. For their installation, the arrangement of the crate and vapor barrier will be required. You can not do without a layer of waterproofing - it will protect the insulation layer from getting wet.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside? All work on the installation of insulation can be divided into the following stages:

1. Remove old structural elements. Prepare the surface.
2. It is necessary to carry out glazing, monitor the quality of the installation of frames. They can be made from wood, plastic or aluminium. Reinforce the parapet if necessary.
3. Lay insulation on the floor and side partitions. Insulate the balcony from the inside, paying attention to the thermal insulation of the parapet and ceiling. Capital walls can not be covered with insulation.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside? Mineral wool, penoplex have proven themselves well. Plates of material are installed on the crate, all joints are blown with mounting foam. Sometimes apartment owners make crates from wooden beam, but the companies that produce materials recommend metal profiles. The fact is that the humidity inside the balconies is high, the wood can deteriorate, and the thermal insulation must be made reliably.

No one imposes strict requirements on the crate, the choice of material remains with the person who will make the sheathing. If you are thinking about how to insulate a balcony from the inside, then you should choose the material, the purchase of which will not become a burden on the family budget.

Warming the balcony with your own hands does not require large financial costs.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.

The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation is penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties.

Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of finishers

Earlier, we examined the insulation of the balcony in sufficient detail, now let's dwell on the insulation of the loggias in more detail. Many people call loggias balconies, not seeing the difference between them, although this is not true.

In general, initially a loggia is a recess in the wall, enclosed by a colonnade, but we are interested in a loggia in the sense that this word was given in Soviet, and later Russian, multi-storey construction.

So, a loggia is an open, non-insulated (this is important for us!) Premises that have at least two (most often three) walls. The last point is the main difference from the balcony, which has only one wall - the outer wall of the house, to which it is attached, blown by all the winds.

The loggia is recessed flush into the outer wall of the house, which gives us a number of advantages. In particular, one of the three walls (internal) can be removed altogether, thus expanding the area of ​​the room.

When the glazing work is completed, it's time to deal directly with the insulation. You should start with the choice of insulation material.

Many use traditional foam and mineral wool out of habit, although modern industry is ready to provide much more advanced and effective materials for insulation.

For example, extruded polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam, XPS). The basis for this material, as well as for many other plastics, is polystyrene - a crystalline colorless substance.

It is melted, foamed with a mixture of freons with carbon dioxide and extruded. This tricky word is called squeezing a semi-liquid uncured material through a hole.

The process is reminiscent of squeezing toothpaste out of a tube, with the only difference being that the holes in the “squeezer”-extruder are a slot a meter or more wide. The result is a wide and long tape, which is sold in rolls or in the form of panels. Extruded polystyrene foam is called penolplex (or penoplex) and is an excellent material for floor insulation.

Possible problems with the insulation of the balcony

Before insulating the balcony inside, I recommend thinking carefully about all the pros and cons of such a solution. Despite the fact that more and more people resort to installing heaters before decorating this room, this operation has several disadvantages.

Here are the ones that I consider the main ones:

1. Reducing the usable floor space. If just finishing already reduces the size of a balcony or loggia, then an additional layer of heat-insulating material exacerbates the problem even more. Therefore, if you have a tiny architectural element, consider whether the resulting additional area is worth the money and effort spent.
2. The appearance of condensed moisture inside structures. When using heaters, the dew point shifts inward, which leads to mold and damage to finishing materials.

This shortcoming, however, is easy to deal with. I will tell you how to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside so as to achieve the ideal microclimate inside.

Sequencing

The very technology of warming a loggia or balcony consists of several important steps:

1. Sealing gaps and eliminating defects. Before laying the insulation for the balcony inside, you need to get rid of all cracks, bumps, potholes and bulges. I recommend blowing out small cracks with mounting foam (just choose a quality one), cement mortar will cope with more serious troubles.

1. Installation of waterproofing. To do this, I always recommend my clients to use penetrating materials. For example, Avatron or Penetron. They are easy to apply with a sprayer, but you can also use a simple roller or brush.

The peculiarity here is that the liquid penetrates deep into the mineral surfaces, as a result of which they are not only protected from water, but also do not freeze during operation at low air temperatures.

1. Heat insulator installation. It is easy to do it inside with your own hands. You do not need to install scaffolding or call aerial platforms. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology, which I will discuss below.

When choosing materials for work, immediately think about whether you will insulate the floor and ceiling. For these surfaces, more durable heat insulators are needed that do not change their properties from external mechanical stress.

1. Arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. It is needed just in order to avoid the condensation of moisture that forms on the balcony inside the heat-insulating materials. For this, vapor-permeable polymer membranes are used, for example, Isospan or Rockwool.

By the way, you can avoid this stage by using heat insulators with a foil layer, placing it inside the balcony. But I, nevertheless, would recommend not to save. Moreover, the vapor barrier membrane will not increase the estimate much.

1. Decorative decoration of the balcony. It all depends on your imagination, the amount of money and the purpose of the room. I cannot give specific advice.

The vapor barrier is glued joint-to-joint, after which these places are sealed with metal tape - all this creates the so-called. thermos effect.

Then follows the installation of the balcony flooring. As a base, it is recommended to create a 4-centimeter layer of screed, with a mandatory gap between it and the walls of 1 cm. This margin is necessary in case of thermal expansion.

You can create such a gap by installing polyethylene foam around the perimeter, 1 cm thick, and then start pouring. When the screed hardens - fit ceramic tile and fixed with tile adhesive.

crate in panel house it is best to mount from a wooden beam with a section of 40x20 mm, and be sure to dry and treated with an antiseptic. Stuffing takes place both horizontally and vertically with the help of self-tapping screws and dowels, driven directly into the thickness of the concrete.

Further, insulation implies finishing, which can be carried out in 2 ways: installation of plastic panels - width 25 cm; installation of moisture-resistant drywall - with this approach, insulation implies additional finishing work: prime and putty the surface, remove the corners and align them.

After that, you can paint the walls or stick wallpaper. Regarding the installation lighting fixtures(lamps, floor lamps, etc.), then the wiring to them must be laid even before the start of interior finishing work.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony in a panel house is often not without errors. Installing a vapor barrier on the cold side of a heat-insulating material - a film or membrane is placed between the wall and the insulation. For this reason, condensation forms on the surface.

At different types mineral wool during operation, their correct operation is not ensured. The result is wetting of the insulation and the gradual destruction of the entire interior decoration followed by disassembly and replacement.

The installation of wooden planks directly in the expanded polystyrene layer leads to a lack of solidity in the thickness of the insulation and the formation of the so-called. "bridges of cold". The same applies to cases of mounting a metal crate inside the insulation layer. In addition to "cold bridges", condensate appears on the metal, which destroys the heat-insulating material.

Restrictions on insulation of balconies

But I can tell you what is absolutely impossible to do when decorating a balcony or loggia. Moreover, violation of these rules may result in administrative or criminal liability.

So, it is forbidden:

1. Demolish load-bearing partitions between two balconies (loggias) or this room and the residential part of the apartment.
2. Install on the balcony engineering Communication(in particular, heating, plumbing and sewerage) connected to the general system of the apartment.
3. To equip a kitchen or a bathroom on the balcony (although, as you understand, no one forbids an office or a bedroom).
4. Install glazing on balconies that are equipped with fire escapes to evacuate people during a fire.
5. Mount hanging flower beds or devices for drying clothes outside the enclosing structures of the balcony.
6. Reduce the height of the parapet of a balcony or loggia (by dismantling the upper part or raising the floor). The minimum height of the parapet should be 1.1 meters.
7. Violate appearance the facade of the building (this is for information, so insulating the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you are unlikely to cause damage to the exterior of the house).
8. To independently glaze balconies located above the 9th floor, while violating the requirements of fire safety.

As you can see, not all of these requirements are observed by our compatriots, but my conscience would be restless if I did not tell you about them.

Now a little about the materials that can be used.

Ways of internal insulation of the balcony

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:

How to insulate a balcony? Choice of heater.

For thermal insulation of such premises, a huge amount of materials is used. I have compiled a table that lists the most popular varieties with an indication of the features of each.

Name	Description
Styrofoam	Dense material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, having a finely granulated porous structure. Do not confuse styrofoam for thermal insulation and packaging foam. The latter has large pores and breaks quickly. Not suitable for floor insulation, as it does not withstand the load. It can be used for installation on the enclosing plate, walls and ceiling.
Extruded polystyrene foam	A material that perfectly retains heat indoors and, thanks to a special production technology, has increased mechanical strength. Microorganisms do not multiply on the surface of expanded polystyrene, it is non-flammable and environmentally friendly.
Penofol	Another name for the material is polyethylene foam. For balconies, it is better to use insulation with a foil layer, which reflects thermal energy and prevents moisture from the insulation layer. The foil, among other things, plays the role of a vapor barrier membrane.
polyurethane foam	A special composition that is applied to surfaces using special equipment. After hardening, it forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer that prevents unproductive consumption of thermal energy and cooling of the balcony. The material is great for warming, but you can’t cope with its application with your own hands.
Mineral wool	A material based on basalt fiber, which is great for insulating walls and ceilings of a balcony. To increase efficiency, it must be protected from moisture. It is impossible to insulate the floor with mineral wool, as it does not withstand significant mechanical stress.
Multilayer panels	We are talking about sandwich panels, which are used for both insulation and decoration of the balcony. They have a beautiful top layer that does not require additional finishing. Thermal insulation is glued from below, which reduces the coefficient of thermal conductivity of enclosing structures.

On this, I consider the theoretical part to be over and proceed to the presentation of specific schemes for the internal insulation of balconies and loggias using several, in my opinion, the most effective materials.

The most common option is polystyrene foam. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and is easily mounted with your own hands inside the balcony.

I tell you how to insulate the balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:

1. After carrying out preliminary operations (sealing gaps and waterproofing), I always treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It improves the adhesive properties of mineral surfaces, removes dust from concrete monoliths and reduces the consumption of the adhesive composition.

Processing can be done with a regular brush or spray. Very carefully process not only the walls, but also the ceiling with the floor. Otherwise, then there will be difficulties when gluing polystyrene foam.

1. It is possible to continue work after priming only after the composition has completely dried, which takes about 6 hours. If the walls of the balcony where I work are made of porous materials (for example, foam concrete), I always prime everything twice.
2. After priming, you can proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene, which is supplied in slabs. Installation is carried out using glue and special fasteners with wide caps.

I prepare the adhesive composition from the purchased dry powder. It is necessary to mix it with water in the proportions indicated in the instruction manual, and then achieve uniformity using a mixer connected to a drill.

I apply the finished glue to the heat-insulating material, after which the expanded polystyrene sheet is glued to the wall. I do the same with other materials, placing them in a checkerboard pattern with overlapping joints.

1. In order for the plates to fit firmly, you need to fix them with dowels with plastic caps. To do this, I use a drill to make a hole in the polystyrene foam and the wall, after which I install the appropriate bracket there.

1. Considering that polystyrene foam does not absorb water, a vapor-permeable membrane can be omitted. Although I see no reason to buy and fix a special film on the surfaces.
2. The last step is plastering. To avoid the destruction of the decorative coating, you must first fix the fiberglass reinforcing mesh on the foam polystyrene plates, and then plaster over it. That's exactly what I do.

1. Before plastering, you can install perforated galvanized corners on the corners, which will facilitate the work and protect the corners from damage during operation.

This material is also widely used for internal insulation of balconies. You can mount it on the walls using special bituminous mastic, construction foam or plastic dowels with wide caps.

I'll tell you how I make foam insulation using polyurethane foam:

1. To begin with, as in all other cases, defects are repaired and the surfaces of the balcony are waterproofed. By the way, the primer will not hurt either.
2. After performing the preparatory operations, it is necessary to squeeze out the mounting foam from the perimeter along the perimeter of the pre-fitted foam slab. More foam is not needed, the insulation will already be securely fixed to the surface.

1. After waiting a few seconds, you need to attach the material to the wall.
2. Further work is carried out using a similar technology. Naturally, I recommend moving the seams in a checkerboard pattern to avoid the formation of cold bridges that reduce the effectiveness of ongoing insulation work.
3. To keep the insulation stronger, it can be further strengthened with dowels with wide caps. Although it is not necessary to do so.

1. The last stage is decorative finishing. Here I completely shift the responsibility for the choice of materials to you. Think for yourself, decide for yourself.

Well, I can not tell you about the use of mineral wool insulation. I can’t say that they are very effective, but they are very popular. I focus on them only because the laying technology itself is more complicated here.

The fact is that mineral wool is very soft and does not have rigid geometric dimensions as such. It is produced in the form of rolls into which material is rolled up with a thickness of 2 to 20 cm.

I recommend buying stone (basalt) wool with a heat-reflecting foil layer for arranging a balcony. The latter will effectively protect the insulator from moisture and play the role of a reflective screen that traps the thermal energy of heating devices inside the room.

Given the described technical characteristics, it is possible to mount the insulating material only under a pre-arranged crate made of wooden bars or galvanized profiles. But this is good, since you can then install on the crate decorative cladding. For example, lining or plastic panels.

For example, I will tell you about insulation using wooden blocks. It is better to take not square, but rectangular lumber with a section of 3 by 5 or 3 by 7 cm. This will save the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony.

The crate can be installed in two ways:

• horizontally - if later you trim the balcony with plastic panels;
• vertically - if you have chosen lining as a material for decorative finishing.

Features of balconies in Khrushchev

There is nothing complicated in warming a typical Khrushchev house and in fact it is not much different from warming a loggia. There is no point in finishing the balcony without insulation, because. this is unlikely to bring the desired result.

Considering that the balcony is located outside the building, I immediately want to note that it will never be warm there in winter, only if you do not insulate 10-15 centimeters and install heating radiators. But on such a balcony there will be very little space!

Yes, and it makes no sense. on balconies, mainly sliding frames with one or two glasses are installed. Ready-made insulated loggia Why did I lead all this, oh yes! In addition to the fact that it makes no sense to buy expensive thermal insulation materials, we will insulate the balcony with foam plastic! Before carrying out all work, be sure to treat the concrete with an antiseptic solution for bricks and concrete, since the concrete has been exposed to aggressive environmental influences for a long time.

Let's make a list and try to include everything you need:

• Perforator;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Mounting foam;
• Styrofoam with a thickness of 5 centimeters;
• Construction stapler;
• Level, tape measure and pencil;
• Stationery knife;
• Wall panels or eurolining (depending on your preferences);
• Plinth and fittings; A piece of linoleum or laminate;
• Fasteners.

Styrofoam laying can be started both from the floor and from the walls. We make a typical crate with a step of 50 centimeters parallel to the floor (we will attach the cladding to it). We fill the space between the bars with foam and thoroughly foam everything.

The thickness of the walls is 5 centimeters, the thickness of the balcony floor insulation is 10 centimeters, otherwise our insulation will “eat” half of the balcony and it will become very narrow! The pictures attached to the article show what is being done and how.

Finishing

After we have foamed everything, we cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulated balcony with foam. It is advisable to do this when using plastic panels in the finish and be sure to use “wooden” wall panels or eurolining, since this will be additional protection against moisture.

The panels are attached to the crate using a construction stapler. The final step will be laying linoleum or laminate and installing a floor plinth. important under flooring make a solid foundation.

10 mm plywood is best suited for this. If you have any questions, write! We will be happy to answer them! I also advise you to read my article on how to make a closet on the balcony.

Balcony insulation in an old house and in a new building has significant differences. This is due not only to the small area of ​​the Khrushchev loggias, but also to their design features:

• The reinforced concrete slab at the base of the balcony has a slope to the outside. This was done so that rainwater would flow down. The same will happen with the ceiling formed by the loggia of the upper floor. On average, the height difference is about 150 mm. The walls are not even, this is the trouble of all old houses.
• Lattice fence. For insulation, you will have to build a parapet and install double-glazed windows. For strong fence 10 cm thick foam blocks will suffice.
• Bad condition of the board. In many homes, balconies are already starting to crumble and fall apart.

It is worth consulting with specialists and, if necessary, reconstructing the stove. All global alterations must be agreed with the supervisory authorities, otherwise problems will arise in the future.

Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, compliance with the technology and correct selection materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate a balcony and a loggia from the inside? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?

IN modern technologies insulation of open hinged structures(balconies) four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider technological features installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Floor and ceiling insulation

The first question is which insulation technology to choose, the answer depends on the configuration of your loggia. The best option- when there is a concrete parapet available, and if there is a metal fence instead, then there are several scenarios for further actions. The first - the parapet can be laid out from foam blocks or aerated concrete, and the metal can be completely removed. This path is the most acceptable both in terms of excellent insulation and design of the loggia, and security.

The second scenario - the fence is sewn up with corrugated board, and then a wooden frame is made of beams for attaching the insulation. This path is somewhat shorter, but it cannot be said that it will cost you much less. There is weakness- wooden beams will serve as cold bridges and in order to get rid of them, you will have to put a heater in 2 layers with an offset. There is a third way - the device of a panoramic loggia without a parapet with full-height glazing.

The technology of finishing with foam plastic, which you have to follow when insulating a glazed loggia with a concrete parapet, is quite understandable. Mounting foam is first applied to the cleaned and slightly moistened surface of the walls for the primary fixation of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene boards. Pre-cooked and cut to size plates are pressed against the wall and glued on the foam to the surface.

At the same time, we insulate the walls of the loggia in the likeness brickwork, placing foam sheets with bandaging of seams. In simple words, the vertical seams of each subsequent row must be separated from the seams of the previous one by at least 150 mm. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the vertical using the building level. After the foam has hardened, it is recommended to fix each expanded polystyrene plate to the wall with dowels - umbrellas.

The process of warming the ceiling of the loggia is a little more complicated, the help of an assistant will not hurt here, although with a certain skill you can manage it yourself. Insulation plates will have to be immediately fixed to the ceiling with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill holes quite accurately, and then hammer in the dowels while supporting the plate. Upon completion, all seams and cracks are carefully filled with the same polyurethane foam.

Now you need to create a frame for mounting the interior trim of drywall, plastic, lining or other facing materials. Wooden slats cannot be attached to the insulation, but you can drill a hole through it in concrete. Which is done using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, and then the slats are screwed directly to the wall with special screws for concrete (called frame dowels).

Having dealt with the walls, you can go to the ceiling. To insulate it, I recommend using foam. Moreover, you need to buy the usual material for insulation and that variety of it, which is supplemented with a heat-reflecting foil layer, which increases the strength of the material and helps to keep the heat inside.

You need to insulate the ceiling in the same way as the walls, using polyurethane glue and dowels. Only first you need to stick the first layer, and on top - the second, with a heat-reflecting surface.

The seams between the parts must be sealed with mounting foam, and at the end - glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. In this case, even a strong cold will not prevent you from creating an immortal masterpiece in your office on the balcony.

If, of course, you take care of floor insulation, which, for example, I carry out as follows:

• I clean the floor surface from the remnants of building materials, cement influx, dirt, debris, glue, and so on;
• I cover the floor with penofol;
• on top I mount a crate from wooden bars pre-cut with an electric jigsaw;
• I install heat-insulating material inside the crate, sealing the cracks with construction foam;
• I mount a draft floor from plywood or OSB boards;
• I lay a floor covering on top (usually linoleum or laminate).

However, my neighbor - a future professor - wanted to make a heated floor in his balcony office. So I had to tell him the order of work in this case:

• on the reinforced concrete floor of the balcony, you need to make a screed using a self-leveling mixture in order to level out all the protrusions and irregularities;
• on top of the frozen screed, you need to lay a layer of heat-reflecting material with a heat insulator;
• mount heating on top electrical cable by fixing it special tape(you remember that you can’t do water heating on the balcony, which means a water heated floor too);
• pour another layer of cement screed on top;
• install the selected decorative flooring.

There are two ways to insulate the walls of the balcony from the inside:

• direct fastening of the insulation to the surface with adhesive and dowels;
• installation of thermal insulation with a wooden crate.

The first method is more acceptable when it is required to insulate the loggia inside with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam (foam foam). Moreover, the latter is often attached to the walls "dry" with dowels, without the use of adhesive. There is nothing to worry about, the main thing is that the insulation plates are installed correctly, that is, without any gaps. The density and strength of foam allows it to hold well on dowels alone and at the same time bear the load of the inner lining.

Wall surfaces are first cleaned and leveled, after which they are covered with a layer of deeply penetrating primer using a roller. After it dries (the time is indicated on the package), a slab insulation is glued to the wall. For this, a ready-made building mixture is used, which is applied around the entire perimeter of each slab and at several points in the middle. After 2 days, the material is additionally attached with dowels.

By the way, the thickness of the foam insulation layer must be at least 100 mm for all walls and ceiling. If the balcony is insulated with polystyrene foam, then a thickness of 80 mm is sufficient. After the installation of thermal insulation is completed, its surface can be plastered using a reinforcing glass mesh or other types of finishes can be applied.

As for mineral wool, it can also be put on glue, but it's still easier to use battens. They are installed on the walls and ceiling with an interval less than 1-2 cm of the width of the insulation boards, so that the latter is inserted between the bars by surprise. According to reviews, when insulating with rolled wool, it is necessary to take into account its gradual sliding down and, in order to avoid this phenomenon, put additional horizontal lintels of the crate.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

Insulation of the loggia Secrets of skill from Alexei Zemskov

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.

Decorative decoration of the balcony

I will end my story with a short story about how to finish the balcony after it has been insulated. To do this, you can use many different materials:

• plastic panels;
• ordinary and decorative plaster;
• wallpaper;
• tiles;
• wooden lining.

Considering that I told you how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool, I will continue this topic. I will describe how you can install lining or plastic panels on the walls. The technology is very similar, since both of these materials are separate lamellas connected to each other using a special system of spikes and grooves.

And there is not much to do here:

• the first part is mounted on the installed crate, starting from the corner;
• after that, all subsequent parts are installed.

I tend to prefer wood as it's a natural material, but plastic is easier to work with, doesn't require finishing, and is cheap.

As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:

Insulation of the balcony with foam

Insulation of a balcony or loggia allows not only to get rid of drafts and dampness, but also to expand the usable area of ​​the apartment. To insulate the loggia, it is necessary not only to use high-quality window blocks, but also to insulate the walls, floor, ceiling of a balcony or loggia.

Advantages of PENOPLEX COMFORT® boards for balcony insulation:

• High compressive strength;
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• Zero water absorption;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Ease and simplicity during installation;
• Low vapor permeability, which is very important for internal insulation.

Scheme 1 - do-it-yourself balcony insulation

• Loggia wall;
• Balcony insulation PENOPLEX COMFORT®;
• sheet material;
• crate;
• Fastener;
• Loggia floor.

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can attach it to the surface with bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel-mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.

Foam mounting

So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.

Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of warming the balcony is completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done the insulation of the loggia yourself, then share your methods with readers in the comments.

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

• self-insulation (personal experience)
• . The most useful from youtube
• On the example of Moscow

The choice of heat insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:

• Stone;
• slag;
• Glass.

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed into the room. This principle allows heat to be reflected off the aluminum cladding and returned to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.

Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before buying. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
• An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame in a fire, emit harmful substances in the process of combustion.

When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

If you plan to use the space in winter, in this case, choose a thickness of 50 mm. Density is determined by further coating - a value of 25 kg / cu is suitable for putty. m.

1. Styrofoam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.

Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.

Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out by specialists, on installation work one day is enough, it also does not take much time to dry completely.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round necessary:

1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.

The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the most minor surface cracks that may not be visible visually.

4. Thermal insulation layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, foam plastic, polyethylene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil is directed into the room. Under this condition, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.

WITH detailed description each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony decoration

Purposes of creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.

To create an interior balcony, you can choose various options finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

IN plastic panels there are grooves for connecting elements. Plastic variant lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.

Video

1. The result of warming the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete screed floor over insulation boards.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.

.

How is a balcony different from a loggia?

First, let's make these concepts clear. Both are glazed, so most people call the resulting space a balcony, although this is incorrect. And some mistakenly believe that if you install windows on the balcony, it automatically turns into a loggia.

The key difference between the two structures is that the balcony has no walls and protrudes beyond the facade, while the loggia has side walls and, on the contrary, is recessed deep into the building. In other words, the outside air acts on the balcony from three sides, and on the loggia - from only one or two, if the apartment is corner.

What result to expect

You can insulate both, but the final effect will vary greatly. A well-insulated loggia is no different from a room. In the presence of a heat source, it becomes a full-fledged living space for year-round use.

Due to the lack of main walls, the thermal resistance of an insulated balcony is much worse - it is comfortable to stay there until late autumn. A sufficient level could be achieved with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but this is not rational due to the small area of ​​the room. After warming free space there will be almost none left.

What about glazing

Since 25% of heat loss falls on, it makes sense to take on the insulation of a loggia or balcony only if there are energy-saving windows. If wooden frames with one glass are installed, you will first have to replace them with modern ones.

Double-glazed windows with higher thermal resistance weigh a lot, and they can only be installed on loggias. Balcony ceilings have a weak bearing capacity, and mounting such windows there, most likely, will not work.

2. Consider the design

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide on the type of insulation, choose the option for finishing the walls and finish the floor covering, and also decide how the room will be heated. All this will determine the design and algorithm for its installation.

Since the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside, it is important to use a vapor-tight material to avoid condensation and the appearance.

instrumentgid.ru

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is best suited for this. When installed with sealed joints, it allows you to make a thermos out of the room, which will retain heat well by cutting off the outside cold. At the same time, with EPPS, you can achieve sufficient thermal insulation by taking a minimum of precious space from the room.

Some consider Styrofoam to be toxic. This is not entirely true. The material is really combustible and emits harmful substances when heated above 60 ° C, but this does not make it dangerous, since XPS is always covered with a finish.

wall decoration

After good insulation on the loggia or balcony, you can apply any type of finish. Depending on the selected coating, the technology of thermal insulation work is slightly different.

• Wooden lining, PVC or MDF panels - for fastening to the wall, you will need to first make a crate.
• Decorative plaster or putty with subsequent painting - this type of finish can be applied directly to the insulation.
• - the easiest way to glue on drywall, fixed on a wooden crate.

Flooring

The floor of the insulated loggia is no different from the floor of the room, so you can use all existing finish coats. However, for each type you will need one or another version of the subfloor.

• Laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on sheets of plywood, chipboard (chipboard), CSP (cement-bonded particle board) or OSB (oriented strand board) fixed on top of wooden logs.
• and porcelain tiles are laid on a concrete screed.

Balcony floor slabs have a low bearing capacity, so only floors on wooden logs are allowed on them. On more solid foundations of loggias, in addition to this, you can also pour a screed for laying tiles.

In both cases, if desired, an electric floor heating system can be equipped. The only difference is that a film infrared floor is used for the structure on the logs, and a heating cable or heating mats are used for the screeds.

Heating

It is important to understand that the insulation of a balcony or loggia will only prevent the walls from freezing and slightly increase the temperature compared to the street. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in winter, one cannot do without a heating source.

There are three main ways to heat a room:

• Electric is the most expensive and difficult to install option, but at the same time the most effective and convenient.
• Convector - installed at outer wall the heater should only be turned on on the coldest days or only when there are people in the room.
• Central heating radiator - according to the law, it is forbidden to transfer the device to a loggia or balcony, but if the partition is removed or the door is constantly open, the battery will cope with heating even from the room.

Take things out, remove shelves, hangers and other items. Clear the walls of old paint and plasters. If there are foci of fungus damage, remove it and carefully treat the places with a special antiseptic, and then dry all surfaces well.

To prevent blowing, seal all the cracks along the perimeter of the fence plate, as well as at the junction with the side walls, floor and ceiling. Remove from joints old plaster and fill them with mounting foam.

The bottom line is to cut off any streams of cold air from the street and make the room as airtight as possible.

If you plan to use the insulated space as an office or a recreation area, you must install the electrical wiring in advance. To do this, install in the right places, lighting and switches.

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It is better to conduct cables along the inner wall adjoining the room. It is not insulated, so it will be easy to hide all the wiring inside the frame or plaster layer. Sockets and can be connected from the nearest socket in the room. But to power the underfloor heating, it is advisable to run a separate cable from the switchboard.

Expanded polystyrene is sold in the form of plates measuring 60 × 120 cm and thicknesses from 20 to 150 mm. Sheets have an L-shaped lock along the contour, which simplifies installation and prevents joints from blowing through.

You can fix the EPS to the walls different ways. The most common is glue-foam in cylinders, which is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. Another option is fixing in the corners and in the center on umbrella dowels with a plastic or metal core. Also, expanded polystyrene is fixed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet to adhesive mixtures for heaters.

To form a single contour of thermal insulation, it is necessary to seal all junctions. It is important to leave gaps of 10-15 mm near the walls in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor, so that later they can be filled with mounting foam. It is recommended to coat the joints in the locks between the plates with glue-foam or seal with foil.

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The required insulation thickness can be achieved either with one sheet or with a combination of two. At the same time, the second option is even more preferable, since the fragments of polystyrene foam are tightly adjacent to each other and form a single layer, and due to the displacement of the joints between the plates, maximum protection against blowing can be achieved.

After completion of the work, an inextricable structure should be obtained, where each sheet of XPS fits snugly against the adjacent one, and all joints between them in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor are sealed with mounting foam.

The fencing slab borders the street and is exposed to cold air the most, so the maximum thickness of the thermal insulation here is 80 mm. It is better to use not one 80 mm sheet, but a “pie” of plates: 50 + 30 mm.

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If space permits, wooden crate mounted on top of the second layer of XPS, fixing the bars with anchors or dowels directly through the insulation. When the width of the window sill is limited, the crate is attached to 50 mm polystyrene foam, and the second layer of insulation is placed between the frame bars.

If selected as a finish, you can do without the construction of a frame. In this case, the mixture is applied directly to the XPS surface. For better adhesion, the sheets must be processed with a grater or scratched with an ordinary hacksaw.

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For walls, a layer of 50 mm EPS is sufficient. The work is carried out according to the same principle. If necessary, the sheets are cut to the desired size with a sharp knife. To join the pieces with each other, an L‑shaped lock is formed at their ends with the same knife.

It is better to insulate in two layers (30 + 20 mm), and mount the frame on top of the XPS. But if the window is installed without extensions and the space is limited by the width of the frame, the second layer of expanded polystyrene can also be laid between the frame bars.

If you are going to plaster the walls in the future, then the crate is not needed. It is enough to fix the sheets and make their surface rough with a grater or hacksaw.

The ceiling borders the apartment, not the street. Therefore, the same layer of XPS is sufficient here, as on the walls - 50 mm. Laying is done according to a familiar principle. Fastening of your choice: glue-foam, dowel-umbrella, glue mixture. Expanded polystyrene is a very light material and is securely held on the ceiling exclusively with glue.

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When installing, pay attention to the height of the windows. If the frame is installed right under the ceiling without additional profiles, then due to the thick layer of insulation, the window sashes may not open. Consider the thickness of the lathing and finishing so that after installation there is a gap of at least 5-7 mm to the sash.

For thermal insulation of the floor, an EPS with a minimum thickness of 50 mm is required, and preferably 80 mm in two layers. Extruded polystyrene foam has high density and can withstand loads up to 30 tons per square meter, so it can serve as the base of the floor.

YouTube channel "XPS TechnoNIKOL"

After mounting on XPS, it is enough to lay plywood, chipboard, DSP or OSB - and you can lay a finishing floor covering like laminate or on top. When installing a film underfloor heating, you must first lay penofol or another heat-reflecting substrate.

Under the laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware, a reinforced cement screed is poured directly onto the EPS, into which, if desired, a cable underfloor heating or thermomats can be mounted. If the heating elements have a small thickness, they can easily be laid in a layer of glue when laying tiles.

The floor on the balcony or loggia is always lower than in the room, so many people prefer to bring them to the same level and remove the step. This is done using a log of a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

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First, transverse logs are laid in increments of 40–60 cm and attached to the slab with anchors. Then the gaps between them are filled with insulation and foamed, and longitudinal logs are attached on top with a similar step and leveled. Next, a second layer of insulation is laid with foam filling and plywood or other sheet material.

10. Finish

At the very end, the ceiling and floor are trimmed. If plaster is selected, then a reinforcing mesh is glued onto the sanded XPS surface, and then two layers of plaster and paint are applied.

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When lining with clapboard, plastic or MDF panels, the molded materials are attached to wooden frame on the walls and ceiling.

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For wallpapering, it is easiest to sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant drywall. Use the crate as a frame, seal the joints between the sheets with putty and, after priming the surfaces, stick the wallpaper.

The final stage of finishing is the installation of the finishing floor. Linoleum is laid or spread on the previously prepared base. If a warm floor is planned, then it is installed first. Next, skirting boards are installed.

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The exception is tiles. Due to the wet processes during laying, it is better to mount it at the stage of floor insulation and before starting work on the walls.