The smell of dry wood, walls that are pleasant to run your hand over, a garden that is beautiful at any time of the year… landscape designer and a student of the school "Details" Elena Poleva built wooden house from hewn logs price Kaluga region |

The layout is very simple: hall, living room-kitchen and bedroom with bathroom.

Lunch group. Furniture from "Inlavka" collection "Estate" and "Province".

The wooden house, according to her, is assembled quickly, but it did not work out quickly here: there was not enough money, so the construction was delayed for several years. It took about a year to design and build a log house, another year the house was on the shrinkage. The hostess worked on the interior for only two months.

Almost all the furniture was bought in Inlavka, it was on budget and was in stock. Elena didn't want to wait.

“For me, the most important thing is the atmosphere of this house,” says Elena. - The closer you get to it, the brighter the feeling that you find yourself in a magical place where time stops. It's like opening a grandmother's chest with things dear to the heart!”

The kitchen is combined with the living room and dining room.

The magical atmosphere is created not so much by things as by the walls: the house is built from a single log house, the diameter of the logs reaches thirty centimeters. The smell of dry wood, walls that are pleasant to run your hand over, a garden that is beautiful at any time of the year ... What else is needed for happiness?

The house was built easily, the only difficulty was the small area and limited budget. A big advantage is the height of the ceiling, in the ridge it reaches five meters. It gives air to the space and pushes the boundaries.

During the debate that flared up after the publication of the article "Ours in America", a reader who wished to tell about his personal experience. Vyacheslav has been living with his family in a house made of a solid log for four years now. And according to him, if he knew all the "nuances" at the time of choosing the material, he would build a house of brick or blocks. Below in the text - his personal "Top reasons why you should not build a house from a log house." To maintain authenticity, we left the text almost unchanged, making only light stylistic changes.

Why did we want a wooden house?

1. Once we saw with our own eyes a log house - we immediately liked it, it looked very beautiful, we wanted the same one for ourselves.

2. For practical reasons: initially it was assumed that we would come on weekends, heat a solid fuel boiler and quickly warm up the house (the concept changed during the construction process).

3. Environmental friendliness: I wanted the house to breathe easily, smell like a pine forest. In general, I liked the traditional concept of life in a private house: a wooden frame, grass near the house, a nearby forest, etc.

summer house

Start of construction

back view

Here we managed to learn a little from the mistakes of others. My friend, in order to save money, bought the wood himself. As a result, a timber truck came to him, the cutters selected suitable logs, half of the timber truck went back ... As a result, 120 cubic meters wood turned into 200 for him. I worked with contractors who sorted wood at their base, and only what really went into work was brought to the site.

view from the yard

Initially, I did not worry about the construction process, as I trusted the contractors. In the course of the work, they nevertheless “screwed up” in places, but not much (more on that below). The logs were laid on the moss. Chopped and hewn - by hand. After they made a “box” with a roof, the house stood for a year.

from the entrance

Of the interesting things in the construction process, I can note the discrepancy between the actual dimensions of the rooms and their visual perception until the moment the ceilings are covered. I personally measured a 19-meter kitchen with a tape measure, because visually it seemed that there were 7-8 meters. And so - with all the rooms.

Finishing

The most interesting thing began at this stage. Firstly, the whole house needs to be sanded from two sides. This work is dreary and not cheap - you can look for prices for work on the Internet, four years ago it cost us a pretty penny (375 sq. M. At $ 5 per 1 sq. M.). Moreover, when estimating the area of work, the bend of the log is added to the formula "height for length" - the area increases.

top plinth - curved fit

Then - impregnation ($ 0.7 per 1 sq.m.). Then - painting in one layer. Then - in the second (both - $ 1 per 1 sq.m.). Moreover, in order for the materials to lay down with high quality, paint the house by hand(which stretches the process in time). After all these procedures, the question of a "breathing house" and "the smell of pine" was removed by itself.
We did not make a basement, so our foundation is simple: PGS pillow, insulation, concrete. The builders pouring the floor did not cut the lower logs to the end in doorways. As a result, a year later, in these places, the floor tiles (ceramic granite) were “torn”. I had to remove the entire damaged tile, cut out the logs, fill the floor with a new one. It turned out to be easier than somehow cutting out the laid tiles - not every tile cutter takes porcelain stoneware.

a crack in the tile remained in the doorway

To the "pleasant" moments of finishing is added regular finishing off the moss stolen by birds, and sealing joints with sealant. This work is long, costly and dreary. Fortunately, there is a sealant manufacturer in Belarus that offers products at reasonable prices. If I had missed the import, I would have gone bankrupt to hell.

Laying communications in a log house also becomes a problem. Embedding a socket into a round log is another task (and the “tariff” is appropriate). You can't hide pipes inside. Attaching a plinth to an uneven log is also not an easy task, you will have to “think” and work with your hands.

plinth - plank + mastic

Due to the long shrinkage of the house, doors and windows were inserted into the frame of the boards. If you try to bet on a "live log" - the risks of getting "sloppy" increase significantly. Like risk of damage to the door or window. But even this “trick” did not help us personally: for 4 years of operation, the doors were adjusted twice. And some windows still "siphon".

House operation

kitchen box (on the left against the wall)

The house is constantly "breathing". When the heating is on, when it's not, everything moves. To hang the kitchen, it was necessary to build a metal frame, sheathe it with drywall, and only attach the kitchen to it. No other way. It is absolutely impossible to install sliding wardrobes so beloved by our citizens - there is nothing to “attach” to, and the wall and ceiling live their own lives. The ladder, which was “tied” to the wall, ended up warped, the railing was torn out.

instead of wardrobe...

Any decorative boxes that cover communications turn into a work of art - they need to be somehow match with log wall, and this process turns into a jewelry fit with a construction cutter in hand.

The joints smeared with sealant were greased twice in 4 years. Doesn't matter - cracks appear. The wooden floor on the 2nd floor also dries out, there are also cracks, and this is inevitable.

crack between logs

By autumn mice enter the house, in the gap between the lower log and the foundation. It is not yet possible to block this road for them, since the interface line is very uneven. And if on the main "animal paths" this phenomenon can be "nullified" with the help of poison and mousetraps, then when mice frolic between logs without coming "to visit" - nothing can be done with them. Damn it.

Also between logs every year wasps make their nests. The issue is resolved with the help of Dichlorvos. But it still has to be decided.

In autumn and early winter on the second floor - the kingdom of flies. First flies get in the cracks for the winter. Then the house becomes warm - and they climb inside. Against this brethren, we have not yet come up with any other means than a vacuum cleaner.

And also we - best friends sellers of Tikkurila paint. There need to tint, here you need to tint: steps, joints, terrace. They did not keep accurate records of production, but a lot of buckets of paint were bought over 4 years.

In spring, when pine blossoms (and then also birch), the whole the house is covered yellow pollen. And - a thick layer. On a flat vertical wall, it would simply not accumulate so much. This issue is solved by washing the walls with a jet from Karcher. But again, it needs to be addressed.

Bath

Inside the house dust accumulates on the bend of the logs. There are no universal means here - dust can only be removed manually, in the old fashioned way.

Sometimes spontaneous, inexplicable bursts of life happen inside the house - some bugs, midges, insects appear, but I have not installed any system here yet.

In the bath, near the bed for guests, some perky creature lives in a log, crunching on a log all night. It is not possible to find and kill her.

And finally - about the famous "winter" forest. My house was cut down from February. Bath - from the August. Haven't noticed a difference yet.

Issue price

Given all of the above, such housing cannot be called cheap. House with a total area of 240 sq. m. (with a small attic floor) cost me $ 40,000 only at the first stage: foundation, box and roof. Then the project expanded, we also built a utility building, a bathhouse from the same "round timber", ennobled the territory, the street next to the house. All this (together with materials, finishes, windows, doors and a geothermal boiler) cost us $ 180,000 in total.

shrinkage to the roof

Conclusion: What we got for these torments is very beautiful house. And some indescribable pleasure from the feeling of a thick, uneven log, its rough appearance, rich texture ... Friends who began to build across the site from mine listened to approximately the same text, my complaints and advice to build from blocks. And in the end ... they also cut down the log house. Here, of course, everyone decides for himself. But I gave you fair warning.

Interviewed by: Dmitry Malakhov

The purchase of round timber for the construction of a country bathhouse is the starting stage of a laborious series of actions. The result of the work should be a durable beautiful log house. The complex of actions consists in the full preparation of timber for the laying of crowns and for their further service. Preparation for the construction of a log house can be ordered or done with your own hands. However, both customers and independent home craftsmen need to know how to competently process a log with their own hands. After all, most operations are performed manually in accordance with the special rules of wooden architecture.

We express our gratitude to the company VseDoma.com, which carries out the construction of wooden houses and baths at a very high level. If you decide to order a building for yourself - go there. Thanks to them, this article was written.

An ax and a sherhebel with a scraper are your best friends

Advertising assurances about the "cosmic" assembly speed of crowns, fully prepared by the seller for construction, are somewhat exaggerated. True construction from calibrated logs with shaped structural elements no doubt it will go much "more fun" than from a freshly cut forest. You will have to tinker a lot, because each future wall element needs:

cut to size according to a pre-prepared project and the selected type of corner connection;
debark - get rid of a very attractive bark for a bug;
sharpen - remove the layer of fresh bark remaining after debarking in order to eliminate the causes of premature rotting of the bast. This operation is among the optional, but strongly recommended procedures;
cut according to the installation method and installation site;
select grooves for corner locking nodes.

If necessary, it will also be necessary to cut off numerous knots, splice logs, hollow out nests and perform a lot of other operations. This is if the potential owner of the bathhouse purchases timber of the 4th, the lowest grade. However, let's forget about the adherents of such austerity. It will require the least effort from an inexperienced carpenter if the owner does not skimp on the 2nd grade wood. In construction, the use of third-rate logs is allowed, but it is better to compare your own capabilities, costs and labor costs initially.

To perform each of the carpentry activities there is a specialized hand tool, often replaced by current builders with chainsaws and electric planers. Their use is not prohibited, but it should be used partially in the most labor-intensive processes. Because the round timber, processed by a tool with a gasoline engine or an electric drive, is more prone to rotting than manually hewn and chopped wood. Chainsaws and other super-fast devices are shaggy wood fibers and leave aquifers open to moisture penetration.

For more information on how to choose an electric planer, see the article.

Working with an ax, a standard planer, a scraper, a traditional chisel, a home craftsman will “clog” wood capillaries. Atmospheric and bath moisture then will not adversely affect the log structure. By the way, it will last much longer than a similar building made of rounded material. In the latter option, after all, the fibers are also unprotected from water penetration. Moreover, during calibration, the machine removes the outer, negative-resistant layer. Therefore, zealous owners are advised to buy round wood and carry out the processing of logs for your favorite log bath with your own hands, using uncomplicated carpentry tools.

If you want to build a brick bath, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video

Rules for choosing good timber

Since we were talking about the type of forest, let's touch on the topic of choosing a log. Optimal material pine is rightfully recognized as independent, because:

this type of wood is quite soft and easy to process;
timber harvesting is carried out in latitudes close to the upcoming construction;
the surface rarely requires additional processing;
the minimum number of knots on the whip;
runaway, i.e. the difference between the largest and smallest diameters in a one-meter section of a log corresponds to the limits required in construction from 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm.

Pine attracts with its price, acceptable resin content and the advantages of easy processing. It does not crack as intensely as spruce. In terms of density, pine logs are ideal as wall material. With the exception of the lowest salary crown, which takes on the entire load from the structure under construction. To form the first row of logs, it is desirable to purchase oak, which is characterized by maximum density, or larch that is resistant to ground moisture. The use of pine for the construction of the crown crown is not excluded, but the logs must be taken with a diameter of 5-7 cm more than the entire timber.

An important criterion for choosing a forest is the width of the longitudinal groove, which is formed along the entire log for row laying and joining the underlying crown with its upper counterpart. The recommended value of this size is 2/3 of the average diameter of a standard log from the purchased lot. The average diameter is equal to the arithmetic mean between the diameter at the butt and at the top.

The width of the longitudinal groove is regulated by folk rules based on many years of experience in wooden architecture:

with repeated winter thermometer readings in the region of -40ºС, the width of the base of the moon-shaped longitudinal groove, i.e. the distance between the projection of the extreme points of the recess on an imaginary straight line should be from 14 to 16 cm;
for regions with winter temperatures of -30 ºС, this size is 12 cm;
for regions with frosts of -20ºС, the longitudinal groove must be made 10 cm wide.

This means that for the construction of a log house in the northern regions, a log with an average diameter of 21-24 cm will be the best wall material. Further, in terms of the degree of climate mitigation, 18 cm and 15 cm.

Timber harvested at the root does not need to be stored for more than 2 weeks. Dried wood will make it difficult to process. Logs should be stacked with timber or plank spacers between rows. Gaskets are required for ventilation.

A log “overexposed” during natural drying warps and cracks more if a longitudinal notch is not made in a timely manner on the side opposite the groove. With a notch, the wood will still crack, but the process will be less active, because. the tension in the log will be relieved. And after shrinkage of the log house, the cracks will be almost invisible.

It is necessary to store the wood on a flat area prepared for its storage. It is desirable to arrange a canopy that protects the raw whip from direct hit of UV rays and precipitation, and a kind of "pallet" from a bar laid at intervals.

Step-by-step log processing technology

After the "correct" exposure of the timber in natural conditions, you can proceed to the stages of preparation: debarking, felling and hewing of the log in order to create wall elements ready for laying.

Stage # 1 - making working devices

Carpentry work is not easy and sometimes dangerous. Logs have a considerable weight and an unstable rounded configuration, while a home craftsman has a double-edged tool. Comfortable work without the risk of injury will be provided by simple devices - linings and staples. They are needed to fix the raw whip in the position required for the work.

Linings are made from chocks, hewn on one edge from the side of installation on the ground, it is possible from scraps of a large section of timber or boards placed on the end. You can not choose in the workpiece, but it is better to choose a groove that is rectangular or triangular in cross section. The best fastening will be if the groove is triangular. Logs installed on linings are necessarily fixed with iron brackets. When clogging the staples, the fibers are not broken, so such fasteners will not harm the material.

Stage # 2 - cutting the log to size

The size of the logs for the crowns must correspond to the design and type of the corner lock. The fundamental difference in corner joints must certainly be taken into account:

if a log house is cut “into a bowl” with corners protruding beyond its outline, the logs should be 60 cm longer than the design dimensions of the wall;
if the felling will be carried out according to the "paw" scheme, the length of the log is equal to the design value.

In length, the log dries out by an insignificant amount: 0.1% of the total length of the material. This value does not need to be taken into account when marking the cutting line.

It is more convenient to mark the cutting lines by strengthening the log on the lining. If the material was purchased with tangible dimensional discrepancies, it is better to take a segment with an approximate average diameter as a central landmark. From it, on both sides, half the required length must be set aside. Although it is often advised to shorten the whip from the side of the top due to minimizing consumption.

Shortening too long logs is not prohibited with a chainsaw, but an ax is a reasonable priority. It is necessary to chop along the marked line with alternating perpendicular strikes with strikes at an angle of 45º.

Stage #3 - removal of the bark from the trunk

Logs cut to size must be debarked, i.e. deprive the unaesthetic outer layer. Barking can be done in three ways:

perform roughing with an ax, which consists in removing the top layer with simultaneous cutting of knots. Adherents of rustic exterior and interior style often have enough of this rough treatment with the creation of a colorful surface;
to carry out a more “detailed” removal of the bark with a scraper, which ultimately allows you to get a smooth surface of a pleasant light color. The disadvantage of the method lies in the insufficient processing of the surface of the trunk in the area of knots, previously cut down with an ax;
remove the loose top layer with an ordinary planer. The quality of processing is higher than barking with a scraper, but the protective sheath from the log will be cut off with a planer. Planed logs must be treated with an antiseptic composition.

A quite suitable tool for removing the bark is recognized bayonet shovel with sharpened blade.

Stage # 4 - weaving logs for the crown crown

We did not forget that the first crown will be made up of the thickest logs. They have to be hewn to one edge in order to lay on a previously waterproofed foundation with an evenly hewn side.

Please note that the hewing and felling of logs for the subsequent construction of crowns must be done so that the “winter” side of the log with a denser arrangement of annual rings is turned outward. So the thermal quality of the log house will be higher.

The sequence of work on the stack of a log on one edge:

At the ends of the log fixed in the linings, we mark the points of its central axis.
On a plumb line or on a level at both ends, we outline vertical lines, according to which the vertical border of the slope will pass.
"Damn" horizontal line fathers. At the upper points of the drawn borders, we make pinches with an ax or hammer nails. Between the points we tightly stretch the coated cord, nylon thread or fishing line, fixing the ends in serifs or tying them around the nail. If we had a coated cord, we pull it according to the principle of a bowstring and the “shoot” type: the line is drawn spontaneously. Along the fishing line, you can draw a border with charcoal or a marker with your own hands. Because squeezing will be carried out strictly vertically, it is not necessary to draw the opposite horizontal border.
We carry out rough squeezing, not reaching the outlined border of 7-10mm. To facilitate work, we make transverse cuts through the entire hump of the log being cut off. Then we remove the segments of the log between the notches with an ax. Instead of incisions, it is more reasonable to make incisions with a chainsaw to the same depth and with the same step, and refine it with an ax.
Then, with a medium-sized ax, we remove the wood to the outlined line.
We cleanly trim the hewn surface of the log with a sherhebel.

In the logs of the mortgage crown, it is also necessary to make cuttings for joints in a paw or in a bowl according to the design decision. We will talk about the methods of their production. If the foundation of the bathhouse has already been poured and is ready for the construction of a log house, prepared logs can already be laid on a waterproofed base. If not, we number the logs and send them to the stack.

Stage #5 - cutting a longitudinal groove

Longitudinal grooves are cut down on all ordinary logs, for a tight fit of the wall material. Simplistically, the process can be called cutting off 2/3 of the hump of a log, followed by the formation of a moon-shaped recess, repeating the shape of the underlying or overlying wall element. In general, the location of the longitudinal groove is directly related to the type of the castle bowl. More precisely, it is deployed up or down. It is preferable that the corner joints, together with the longitudinal grooves, are, as it were, covered with a log, i.e. turned down so that atmospheric moisture does not flow into the connections.

The basic principle of building walls in wooden construction"butt to the top". The alternation of the narrow and wide ends of the log is necessary to align the crowns to the horizon. This indisputable rule must be taken into account when marking the grooves.

The marking of the rounded groove is made with a carpenter's line - a kind of compass. You can make a similarity of the trait yourself by screwing tightly a wire with sharp edges to the handle of a hammer or to a stick. According to folk technology, a groove is drawn with considerable effort:

we lay the log on the place laid for it in the log house, then accurately draw the outlines of the hump of the lower log at the end of the upper element using carpenter's line or homemade "compass" with two wire legs;
by analogy with the marking of the stitching, we mark the longitudinal lines;
we transfer the marked log to a site convenient for work and fasten it in linings:
along the entire length of the log being processed, we make notches or cuts;
we carry out a rough and finishing tesk, then we process the groove with a sherhebel;
we coat the entire surface of the groove with coal and lay it on the place laid for it in the log house for verification. If unpainted areas are found on the lower log, we remove the excess from the groove and try again.

According to the rules, longitudinal grooves are formed simultaneously with cutting into a paw or into one of the types of bowls, we will talk about the methods for their manufacture separately.

We have introduced general principles preparation of timber for the construction of a log cabin baths. They will also help home master in his hard work, and to the customer of the builders' efforts, who wants to control the literacy of execution.

Forest round larch refers to hardwood, although it belongs to coniferous species. Trees over 400 years old are used for sawing. In terms of strength, the material approaches oak, significantly exceeds it in moisture resistance. Due to the high content of resins and oils, larch is reliably protected from insects and fungal infections. Round timber larch is used for the construction of houses. Wood has a high heat capacity, which allows you to keep cool in the summer and keep the house warm in the winter. Baths and saunas are built from it, and fences for reservoirs are also produced.

Forest round pine - affordable material

Forest round pine has a soft wood that matures at the age of one hundred years. Pine is divided into two varieties - dry chips and tar. Tar is most resistant to moisture, decay processes and insect attack. It is used for the manufacture of the first three or four crowns of houses in a log house; tar is suitable for use in places with high humidity. Pine round timber is used for the manufacture of turning and artistic carvings. It is also used in construction and furniture production. Ease of processing (resin is pre-resined) and low price are the main advantages of this wood.

Wood round aspen - high resistance to moisture

Forest round aspen is harvested from trees that are forty years old. The wood is light and not prone to cracking. Due to its special resistance to moisture, wood is used for arranging cellars and making roofing materials. Log cabins of wells are made from it, aspen is also used for finishing baths. Aspen round timber is the main material for the production of matches, unlike other species, aspen practically does not produce soot when burned.

Forest round cedar - durability and healing

Forest round cedar refers to soft woods. Logs from the butt part, in which there are usually no knots, are considered more valuable. It is used to produce lumber and molded products, furniture and household items. Cedar is one of the best materials used for building houses. Round timber cedar is valued for the durability of wood, resistance to negative influences and healing properties. It contains a large amount of essential oil, rich in phytoncides and useful microelements. Standing out in a small amount, they heal the air in the room, and also help to increase the body's defenses.

Pine log - sawlog and raw products

The BiG House company offers to buy pine logs. For our pine log, the price corresponds to the quality. In our catalog you will find sawlogs, and planed (hewn) products. Pine wood is one of the most popular materials used in construction work. Pine logs are processed - rounded, and unprocessed. Processing consists in removing the top layer from the wood - the bark. At mechanical way cleaning, the tree is fixed on the machine, the diameter of the product at the exit is set. The workpiece material can rotate and pass through the milling spindle, because it remains in a static position, in this case it is processed by a movable rounding spindle. Hewn logs undergo manual processing, due to which the outer cork layer is completely removed. The upper layers containing a high amount of resins are preserved as much as possible. Round timber, which has undergone manual processing, better resists atmospheric influences. Hewn products are less prone to cracking. The price for a hand-crafted pine log is higher, but the costs pay off with a toroid - the service life of hewn round logs exceeds the service life of conventional material.

Let's Paint the House

Houses from hand-hewn logs

Everyone knows that the walls of a classic wooden house are built from round logs. And the thickness of such a wall is usually 35 cm or more. And raw wood for building a house is processed in a special way. The result is hewn logs. Processing is done manually, the bark is removed, all unnecessary is planed. Then the wood is dried and impregnated.

It should be noted right away that manual tes is a rather laborious process and is not so cheap. Used for planing planers or an axe. Softwoods are usually selected for hand-cutting. Their age is at least 50 years. In this case, trees of the same age are selected. Must be the correct size. On the north side, the tree rings are denser. And with this side, hewn logs are laid out.

The master alternately selects logs for the construction of the future house. First, the thickened ends of the log are stacked on the thinner ones, and then vice versa. When a log is hewn with an ax, the porosity of the wood is greatly reduced. In fact, the wood is compacted from all sides. I must say that logs are most often used, the diameter of which is 24 cm, as well as 32 cm.

trimming manually has many advantages, among them:

But this processing method has its drawbacks. It takes a lot of time to trim. Drying with a natural method can take one and a half to two years. And I must say that hewn logs appearance inferior to rounded ones.

When a house is assembled from hewn timber, gaps appear between the logs, in which moss or tow is laid. During the year, the log house will shrink. Then it is necessary once again to caulk all the seams with combed tow. But, I must say that it is pleasant to live in such a house. It will delight you with its unique aroma and warmth.

Hewn logs were used by our ancestors to build houses. Used in this labour-intensive technology exclusively manual labor. And this technology has been alive for many centuries. I must say that not all logs are suitable for construction. Wood is selected, which has the minimum number of defects. They try to cut the forest in winter time of the year. The fact is that the winter forest has a lot of resins, it is drier, more durable, withstands shrinkage better, it has fewer pests.

After the logs have been selected and cut down, all branches are removed from them with an ax. The tree is stripped of bark. But after that, the trunk has a brownish tint. If you need to get a light shade, then you need to remove a few millimeters with a scraper or an ax. The job requires real skill.

After the logs are prepared, crowns are formed from them. Grooves and locks are cut for each log to ensure a secure connection with other logs. Between the crowns, dowels made of wood are laid bare. They fix the wall element, preventing the elements from moving. I must say that a log house, if built by a true master of his craft, looks great. The atmosphere in this house is unique. The house turns out to be environmentally friendly, the material is inexpensive. And if you decide to opt for such a house, you make the right choice.

The technology of building houses from hand-hewn logs implies a quality connection building materials in the corners. Professional builders of wooden houses distinguish between two main execution technologies corner connections: “in a cup” and “in a paw”. The first technology provides for a rather large consumption of wood and, therefore, takes more time than laying logs “in the paw”. If you want to save time and materials for arranging corner joints wooden house, use technology "in the paw". But such laying implies a large number of hermetic connections.

Laying the corner joints of a wooden house “in a cup” involves laying building materials on two walls located on opposite sides. Further, another log is laid perpendicularly on the logs, with the help of which the marking for the connection is carried out.

Laying the corner joints of a wooden house “in the paw” involves quite complex manipulations that are difficult to perform without the appropriate dexterity tools. The back side of the log should be hewn in square shape. Vertical sections should be divided into 8 equal particles. Thus, external and internal corners wooden houses will differ from each other, forming a special “foot”.

After the walls of the wooden house are erected, you can proceed to their caulking. It must be carried out from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.