A homemade scriber is a carpentry trait. Metal scriber for metal Making scriber for metal

Part marking is the most important operation in the technological chain of production. Depending on the requirements for accuracy, readability of lines on the surface, the method of their application is selected. Pencil, chalk, marker are easy to use. You don't need to put in any effort while marking. However, these methods are not effective enough in many cases. The lines are too wide, are easily removed during the process and are hard to see during processing. The best tool for high-quality marking is considered to be a metal scriber for metal. The lines are clearly visible and cannot be erased. The thin contour allows the production of high precision parts.

Tool description

For many years, domestic manufacturers have relied in production on strict rules regulated in legislative acts. So the scriber for metal marking GOST 24473-80 must correspond to the dimensions and characteristics indicated in the document. The following types of tools were allowed for production:

• one-sided;
• bilateral;
• one-sided with a handle;
• double-sided with a handle.

The material of manufacture was also discussed. The scriber could be solid carbon steel or carbide-tipped. Interchangeable needles were sometimes used as a cutting element. The tool is made of steel grades U10, U12. These models have their pros and cons. The disadvantages include rapid wear of the tip. The advantage is the ability to sharpen the fixture on any abrasive equipment. In addition, the steel sample is cheap. A metalwork scriber for metal with a victorious tip will cost more.

Its service life is many times longer, it is not afraid of scale, dust, dirt on the surface. A special diamond wheel is required for sharpening.

Download GOST 24473-80

DIY manufacturing

The home master is not limited by strict production regulations and requirements. He has the right to make a metalwork scriber for himself from the desired material, the desired size, shape. Experienced craftsmen, even in large enterprises where it is possible to use a factory product, they believe that a model made by oneself is better. A home-made scriber takes into account the individual characteristics of the employee, the features of performing operations. A comfortable handle is more comfortable to use, since it is often necessary to exert considerable effort when marking.

Having decided that a tool is needed, the question arises - what to make a locksmith's scriber from so that it is comfortable and lasts a long time?

There are many options, for example:

1. Locksmith tools: file, tap, tool steel drills, core.
2. High-strength alloy part: valves, shafts, needles, spokes.
3. Drills, drills with victorious soldering.

Production technologies at home suggest the presence necessary tool, work skills. Deciding how to make a scriber with your own hands in this case is the choice of the master. Among the most popular methods are the following:

• sharpening of a convenient part according to the drawings;
• making a holder for a scriber with replaceable needles;
• welded construction of handle and cutting edge.

When working with an abrasive tool, remember that it is unacceptable to overheat the workpiece. The appearance of scale on the surface is a marriage. A minimum of 0.5 mm of metal should be removed in this case. Coolants and gentle processing are used.

A good solution for making do-it-yourself scribers is to use sewing needles. For their production, high-strength carbon steel is taken. Having made the handle, it is possible from wood or other materials, insert the clamping mechanism for the needle. First, it is shortened to the desired size. It is even easier to use sewing needles by removing the stock from a faulty machine.

A completely different, modern approach to solving the problem is offered by savvy craftsmen. You can buy a set of electronic scribers online. It works on the principle of arc engraving. To implement the idea, you need to know the principles of electrical engineering, skills in working with devices. Although the supply voltage is small, even a cord from a USB computer port will do, safety precautions should be followed.

To make a carbide-tipped scriber, you need a diamond wheel. An ordinary abrasive will not cope with the task, it can only be spoiled. When sharpening, the tool is not afraid of overheating, but still the temperature should be kept under control. Usually fixed will win on brass solder, which can melt. It is wise to use the services of sharpening masters. In domestic conditions, a scriber with a carbide nozzle can serve for many years after one sharpening.

Whatever manufacturing method the home craftsman chooses, he must understand that the work is worth the effort. Marking on metal with a metal scriber is better, more accurate than a similar procedure using a marker, pencil or chalk.

This is a high voltage rotary engraver! With the help of a scriber, you can cut and apply various images or inscriptions on metal. Structurally, the tool is simple, and for its manufacture with your own hands you will not need either machines or rare or expensive materials. This unit is able to work perfectly from the USB port of the computer.

All the necessary parts for the scriber are sold in this Chinese store.

And if portability is needed, then it can be connected from a conventional 3.7 V battery. This device is very economical, it only needs electricity to operate and no other expenses, such as drills, etc.

For manufacturing, you will need a dropper, you can buy it at any pharmacy for a couple of cents. The shorter needle will serve as the electrode. To connect to the body, we put a PVC tube on it. A cut needle cap will be an excellent protection against accidental arcing. The tip of the needle itself should peek out a maximum of a couple of millimeters from the cap. The coolest wire option for this device is wires from regular headphones. They have good insulation and are quite thin.

Soldering the wires to the needle is quite difficult and for this we advise you to use Super Glue. PVC - a dropper tube will serve as an excellent dielectric.

So, the USB connector is glued. You can also glue the switch with superglue. The wire can be fixed with electrical tape and everything will work fine. The wire leading to the needle-electrode must be soldered and a PVC tube should be put on top of it. That, in fact, is all! The assembly is over and the device is completely ready!

As you can see for yourself, the scriber is assembled very quickly and easily! There is one very important nuance about this device - it is FORBIDDEN - to repeat the process on their own for those who are not familiar with the rules of electrical safety, have no experience with high voltage and not familiar with radio electronics!

It is best to charge such a device from a power supply with a USB output. If a high-voltage discharge hits the USB cable, it will instantly disable the computer and have to be thrown away. The device gives such an arc from a very weak power supply 5V (volts) and only 500 mA, and this power supply is much more powerful - the same 5V, but already as much as 2 amperes and the difference in power is very noticeable. Be careful - you can be electrocuted, of course, not fatally, but painfully.

On the surface of the table, put two thick fiberglass plates, as a dielectric, on top of them - a steel plate, on which a sheet of paper can be fixed with magnets. A high-voltage arc is capable of easily perforating, i.e. poke a large number of small holes, any porous materials such as paper or cardboard. In this way, you can make various stencils very quickly. If you need to transfer any image to metal, it is also easy to do from a drawing or printout. From the impact of a high-voltage arc, small potholes form on the metal, which form the image itself. The depth of such notches directly depends on the distance between the electrode and the plate, the greater the distance, the greater the arc and the stronger the blow!

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scriber- a carpentry marking tool that replaced the line.

Time does not stand still and makes improvements to carpentry tools. When marking with a line, the most difficult thing is to ensure a strictly vertical position of the marking ends of the line. The Canadian inventor, one of the authors of the "Canadian felling" technology, Robert Chambers, proposed a marking tool in which verticality is provided by bubble levels. He named it ChambersScriber.

The talented Russian carpenter Yuri Milykh developed his own version of the scriber, which he called carpenter's compasses. Based on his motives, my homemade product was made.

The main reason self-manufacturing- the high cost of this tool (300 - 500 US dollars).

To make a scriber, you need the following tool:

1. Hammer,
2. Hacksaw,
3. Vise,
4. Bulgarian with cutting and grinding discs,
5. Welding transformer,
6. Drill,
7. A set of needle files - files,
8. Taps and dies with a diameter of 6, 8, 10mm,
9. Plumb (to adjust the verticality),
10. Level (to adjust horizontal).

Scriber is made entirely from improvised materials. It cost me $ 2 (the price of nuts and washers) and two days of wasted time.

Well, now, the manufacturing process in pictures.

A scriber is a necessary marking tool that can draw a thinner line than a pencil. Having made the first scriber, you will understand how easy it is, and make a few more pieces.

For this you need:

Wood lathe
- 3 or 4 jaw chuck
- drilling machine
- whetstone
- standard propane torch.

Most of my scribers are 125 to 200 mm long. And to minimize the amount of work on metal processing, they can be made from standard steel and brass bars with diameters of 5 and 12 mm, respectively. I make handles from a blank 025 mm, but sometimes you need a handle, after solidification, and I make it from a blank 038 mm.

I make my scribing tips from high-carbon, oil-hardened tool steel.

First, I saw off a piece of steel bar with a hacksaw and clamp it in the headstock lathe so that it protrudes approximately 12 mm. At the lowest speeds, I end the end with a file. Then I clamp the center drill in the tailstock and, having lubricated the end of the bar with oil, I drill it under the center of the tailstock, which will support the bar during turning.

Then for the brass bushing I cut off the pin 012 and 12 mm long and clamp it in the headstock chuck. To get a flat end at the docking point with a tree, I end it with a file. As with steel, I work at the lowest speed. For lubrication and cooling, I lubricate the end with a couple of drops of oil and drill a hole along the axis of the pin, equal to the diameter of the steel sting.

After that, I remove the pin from the cartridge, completely degrease it and the steel sting with a liquid solvent and pass the sting through the pin sleeve. From the side of the handle, I release a sting of such a length that a shank fits well in the handle. On the other hand (with centering drilling), I leave the sting of the desired length with a small allowance, which I saw off after turning the sting into a cone. Then, with the usual solder for pipes using a propane torch, on both sides I solder the sting to the brass bushing.

I fasten the brass bushing in the headstock, press the centered end of the sting with the tailstock and clean the soldered joint of the sting / bushing with a file. I sharpen the steel sting with a personal file and only at the tip, for support, leave the cylindrical part.

For a pen, I try to choose wood of one color or with an interesting pattern or color. I end the workpiece and along the axis of this end I drill a hole with a depth equal to the length of the shank and approximately 0.8 mm more than its diameter. The gap guarantees against non-gluing. Then, having degreased the shank and sleeve with a solvent, I glue the handle to the shank with epoxy. When the epoxy hardens, I grind the handle to the final shape.
I grind the handle slowly. Having completely turned the handle, I grind it and finish it with shellac, linseed or tung oil. Having finished the handle, I take out the scriber from the cartridge, clamp the centered end of the sting in a vise and saw off the cylindrical tip protruding beyond the pointed part of the sting.
The last operation in the manufacture of the scriber is heat treatment and sharpening of the end of the sting. Heat treatment is a two-stage process, including quenching and tempering. I hold the scribe by the handle, with one finger touching the sting near the handle, and insert the end of the sting [slightly away from the point] into the tip of the flame. As soon as the end of the sting turns cherry red, I quickly dip it into a jar of engine oil. Cooling the steel in oil will quickly lower the temperature of the steel, and it becomes very hard, but brittle - almost like glass. To make the steel less brittle, it must be "released", and for this it must be heated and cooled again.

In conclusion, I sharpen the sting on the grindstone. This is easy and simple to do in the same way as sharpening a pencil on a belt grinder.