How to make wiring to the light. Light switch connection diagram, detailed step by step instructions. The sequence of installation work

Any novice electrician can conduct light in the house with his own hands, the main thing is to correctly create a lighting scheme, choose the appropriate cable section and, of course, the most optimal types of lamps for each room. Next, we will consider in detail with you the whole essence of electro installation work and a visual video instruction, which will demonstrate each of the steps.

Preparatory work

So, the first thing you need to do is choose your own suitable fixtures for all rooms. It all depends on your preferences, but we recommend using the following product options:

bedroom - a sconce near the bed, a chandelier or LED strip on the ceiling;
bathroom - a lamp near the mirror and spotlights on the ceiling or a waterproof ceiling;
corridor - ceiling spotlights;
living room - floor lamps and a chandelier;
kitchen - directional light lamps, spotlights or LED strip.

You also need to decide on the bulbs, what they should be. Today, incandescent and halogen lamps are becoming a thing of the past, giving way to a more economical and reliable lighting option in the house -.

When you have already decided exactly on the types of lamps and types of light bulbs, you can proceed to an equally important stage - settlement work. To conduct light in the house, you need to calculate the number of light bulbs in relation to each room. For example, four spotlights will be enough for a small bathroom, which cannot be said about a spacious kitchen.

So you have to find two values:

After the number of light bulbs has been counted, you need to proceed to the final stage - the creation of an electrical lighting circuit in the house.

By the way, as for the cable with which you are going to conduct light in the house, it is best to choose a three-core copper conductor with a core cross section of at least 1.5 mm 2, which will be quite enough for home conditions. The most suitable price-quality ratio for domestic cable, which is used most often.

The last thing to do is to draw it yourself, on which the following elements will be marked:

types of lamps in all rooms (for example, a chandelier and a wall lamp can be installed in the bedroom, and only LED lighting in the kitchen);
cable route along the walls;
installation location of the junction box;
switch connections.

When the project is created, you can buy all the components and hold the light in the house with your own hands.

Video review of the new country house with modern lighting

Cozy cottage

Main Process

The technology will be provided from scratch, that is, when the premises will be fully implemented.

So, to make the light in the house with your own hands, you need:

Turn off electricity.
Make strobes in the walls for laying the cable, according to the diagram.
Cut the cable into suitable lengths (from the inlet to the junction box, from the box to the chandelier, sconce, etc.).
Draw a line of illumination, starting from the introductory shield. It is necessary to connect the wires in junction boxes either by soldering, there should not be any twists.
Connect switches and lights in the rooms.
Ring the finished line with a multimeter for a short circuit.
If everything is in order, cover the strobes with gypsum mortar. Otherwise, you need to redo it yourself problem area, perhaps, in one of the junction boxes, bare cores are in contact.
Turn on the introductory machine and check the operability of the finished lighting system in the house.

Currently, many people are landscaping their balconies, turning them into rooms, recreation areas and are faced with the problem of lighting on the balconies, because they do not have sockets or wires to install lamps. But it's easy to fix. To do this, you need to choose the outlet closest to the balcony. Have a perforator, channel chisel, drill available.

On the balcony, we insert a plastic box, which is sold in the store, into the hole, we pass the wire, we connect the socket, we fix the socket in the box. Wire indoors.

As a result of these not difficult actions, all that remains is to hang the lamp on the wall or ceiling and you will have light on your balcony.

The fact that the wires to the outlet on the balcony will go from the outlet to the room will not greatly affect the voltage.

We carry out the light on the balcony

In this article, I will tell you how to hold the light on a glazed balcony. Simply, if it is not glazed, then what is the light for?

When there is on the balcony window frame, there are plans to sheathe the walls with lath, insulate the floor, the light in this room is simply necessary.

So, you need to hold the light on the balcony. Where to begin? From an assessment of the situation. From what the light bulb will be powered by electricity.
And then the question arises, is it that I should pull a cable from the meter or something? Uuu .... I’ll shine a flashlight better. Or, if the house is old, then all the wiring lies in the ceiling plate and only there to look for the power cable and pull it to the balcony from it. As a rule, it is better not to touch all the ceiling twists, but for good, change the electrical wiring completely throughout the apartment to copper.

What to do? And let's be powered from a regular outlet! Is there such a thing? Still not far from the balcony? Here is the solution!

What do we need? First, when working with electricity, always have a voltage indicator light with you. It looks like an ordinary screwdriver, only in a transparent case and an LED inside. When brought to the phase, the diode glows. This means that the voltage in the network is the place to be. Go out into the corridor, do you have a counter there? And turn off the machines by lowering them down. The electricity in the apartment is off.

Well, you can start. Measure the distance from the outlet to the balcony wall and, given the thickness of this very wall, measure the distance to the ceiling. It will be necessary to retreat at least 150 mm from the ceiling and only there to fix the junction box, into which all the wires will come. But first things first.

Measure the distance and cut the cable. And take a copper cable with a wire cross section of 2x3.5 or 2x4. For a network cable, do not try to take less. The cable is cut, everything is ready, but how to attach it to the wall, what would be nice?

You can make a strobe, drown the cable and putty. Do you need it? Buy a cable channel and hide it in it. First fix the channel, then lay the cable and close the channel with a cover. In the wall, in a straight line from the outlet, you need to drill a hole for the cable to pass through. It is best to do this with a perforator.

Next, remove your outlet, if the cable to the outlet is aluminum, then the ends of the copper cable are best tinned with a soldering iron. But it is best to use a terminal block for connection, because. the 2x4 section is still not small and most likely will not enter the socket terminals.

We take a terminal block, insert into it the ends that come into the socket. Next, we cut off a small tail of the copper cable, it can be with a smaller section, 2x2.5, 3x2.5, we clean the ends and fasten them with pliers to the ends of the 2x3.5 or 2x4 network cable. We insert the resulting twist into the free end of the terminal block. We put the ends from a small tail into the outlet and put it in place. The electrical network is ready.

Further more interesting. We go out onto the balcony and figure out where we will install the junction box. From the ceiling at least 150 mm and can be installed. If you sew up the balcony with a rail, then the box will go special, for fastening on wood or in drywall. Then we look where the light bulb will be. On the ceiling? Fine! Fasten a 2x2.5 or 3x2.5 copper cable (on a 3x2.5 cable, one wire will be extra. This is a yellow-green wire. Just cut it off).
You can fix the cable on special mounts with a nail, they are sold in packs, pieces of 50, or even simpler and much more reliable, drill several holes along the length of the cable with a puncher, insert dowels into them, and wind the wires on the dowel head. When inserting the cable, simply screw it to the wall or ceiling with a wire. Very comfortably.

Did you run the cable for the light bulb? Okay, then we run the cable from the switch in the same way. Wherever you want the light to turn on, there will be a switch. We put all the ends of the cables into a box, from the network, a light bulb and a switch, and you probably also want to stick a socket. Please! Fasten the cable according to the example and the ends into the box. Got 8 endings? Right?

Now the main thing is that the circuit should work, the ends of the wires must be twisted or, as they say, unsolder. Do you have a network, there are two wires, take them aside, then, two wires from the light bulb, take them away? Then two wires from the switch and two from the outlet.

Let's start with the simplest, use pliers to wind the ends of the network cable and the cable that comes from the outlet. Try to go by color. Did you wind up? Great. Then, to these two coiled ends, bring the cable that comes from the light bulb. Also wind the phase wire from the light bulb with pliers (usually of blue color) to the coiled end, most likely also blue.

Done? Fine. To the white, or better to say, to the free end of the twist, wind the wire from the switch, observing the color. Ready. There are two open ends left. Right? Yes, right. One for the light bulb, one for the switch. Connect them.

You can insulate the twists with electrical tape, but it is best to do this with the PPE connecting cap. It just twists all the way to the twist. Hide the wires in the box, close it with a lid, and one more thing, screw the light bulb on. At least temporarily, you can also put it on the terminal block. That's all, go to the corridor and turn on the machines. Everything is working. Now you have light on your balcony!

Good luck!!!

Requirements for conducting electricity for lighting on the loggia and balcony

One of the stages of finishing the loggia and balcony is to conduct electricity here. For the correct installation of wiring in this place at home, it is best to contact specialists. But if you have the necessary knowledge and experience with electricity, then this stage repair work can be done on your own.

Usually electrical wiring carried out before the start of finishing work in the room. It is best to choose moisture-proof sealed switches, fixtures and sockets for this part of the house.

Although the balcony and loggia traditionally have good natural light, they also need electric lighting. It is better if these are top spotlights and sconces.

Light control on the balcony and loggia is best placed in the next room, which borders such a room. To comply with electrical safety regulations, the junction box must also be located in this room.

In general, the wiring of electricity to the balcony and loggia is carried out in several stages. First, special holes are made in the wall using a concrete drill. The diameter of the hole must be equal to the diameter of the corrugated pipe or metal hose.

After that, the electric cable in a metal hose or corrugated pipe is pulled to the balcony and loggia and mounted on the wall bordering the next room. At the same time, it must be remembered that the PVC corrugated pipe or metal hose should not come into contact with the insulation.

Then a cable is laid (preferably copper) from the apartment to a new or closest junction box, outlet or electrical panel.
The next stage includes electric cable on the balcony to the desired location of the fixtures.

After that, electrical boxes, sockets and switches, sconces and spotlights are fastened. ceiling lights. These works are completed by connecting electricity. This is done after work on sheathing and insulation of the balcony and loggia. This sequence allows you to hide electrical wiring under the skin, thereby not violating appearance premises.

Before starting this work, you need to consider the choice of fixtures. Lamps are best for lighting a loggia and a balcony. small sizes. These should be built-in spotlights or outdoor fixtures that fit well to the ceiling.

It must be remembered that a large chandelier or sconce will not fit well into a small room of a loggia or balcony. It will also prevent the window sashes from opening. Acceptable for such premises and the use of wall sconces. Processed

Strange as it may sound, but electrical work in the country begins with a design project for all premises. And then suddenly it turns out that there is nowhere to connect a floor lamp above your favorite chair in a secluded corner, or there was an outlet for a TV with a DVD player, but you can’t put your phone on recharging ... Of course, you can use extension cords-splitters, but do you really want to constantly tripping over wires on the floor? In general, we first arm ourselves with paper, pencil and tape measure and carefully draw a plan for arranging furniture in all rooms.

Having placed it on paper, you can quite accurately determine where and how many sources are needed, on which side of the door to make a switch, at what height and where to fix additional lamps, in which place on the ceiling to hang a chandelier ... Having calculated required amount sockets and lighting fixtures, approximately estimate the total required power in order to purchase the required number of fuses in advance. In fact, the more fuses, the safer the entire electrical network in the house.

It makes sense for each room to put its own automatic outlet, where there will be the greatest load, and one fuse for the overhead light for the entire floor (if there are several floors, respectively, one for each). You should not chase cheapness and buy these devices in the construction markets - often they melt themselves, but the network is not turned off!

Having decided on the number of machines, we select a special mounting box for them, which allows you to manage your network from one place. According to existing rules, the fuse box should be located as close as possible to the meter, which, in turn, is recommended to be placed as close as possible to the power cable entry into the house. Considering that the meter, the fuse box, and the bunch of wires are not quite an aesthetic sight, it is worth placing them somewhere in utility room while providing easy access to them.

Now here's the fun part. With a tape measure in hand, we accurately measure the distance from the desired fuse to the farthest outlet in the room - this is the length of the wire that will be needed. Therefore, in our time, many devices consume quite a lot of electricity, the cross section of the wire (copper stranded) must be at least 3X2.5 mm 2.

We start the installation of the line from the far outlet towards the shield - so that it doesn’t work out later that some 20 cm were not enough! Only one thing must be remembered: the installation is carried out in a continuous line, in no case do not cut the wire in the intermediate sockets - they are mounted in parallel! In places where the wire enters the contacts, it is advisable to install pieces of heat-shrinkable tubes for reliable insulation. The wire itself is laid along the bottom of the wall and closed wooden plinth or we hide in special plastic cable channels, a great variety of which are on any construction market.

Well, the sockets are installed, the wires are laid to the shield, what's next?

And then nothing complicated is expected, you just need to be patient and carefully mount all the wires according to the connection diagram. This will definitely require two or three wiring blocks, preferably in a plastic case for greater electrical safety. Such pads are installed in a special plastic box and do not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the switchboard as a whole. To connect pads and machines, you will need literally a couple of meters of single-core copper wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2 - it's just more convenient for installation. You should not just forget about those wires that were already connected in the sockets to the “0” (“ground”) terminal - they are all assembled on a separate block and output with a thick (cross-section of at least 4 mm2) copper single-core wire for grounding, which can be without problems to connect, for example, to the lightning protection circuit of the whole house - this is such a metal strip encircling the foundation.

With overhead light, everything is simple! We pull the wire from the hook of the chandelier along the ceiling to the wall, lay it along the wall to the installation site of the switch and install a small junction box: a small plastic box is usually round or square - as you like. Everything that is inside the box is not needed, only the body is important. Using a small mounting block, carefully connect the switch wire to the main one and hide the connection in the box.

All! We can invite an acceptance committee. If the work is done carefully, then there will be no complaints and - cheers! Light bulb, burn!

By the way

Those who are just planning to "electrify" summer cottages should be aware of the proposed total ban on the sale of any household incandescent light bulbs in Russia by 2014. They are subject to replacement with energy-saving analogues. Already in 2011, the sale of light bulbs more powerful than 100 watts will be banned, and from 2013 - more powerful than 75 watts. By the way, in the EU countries, household incandescent lamps of 100 W have already disappeared from the shelves.

The dimensions of fluorescent lamps are often larger than those of the good old "Ilyich bulbs". And although manufacturers promise to supply us with lighting fixtures of all sizes, shapes and styles in the near future, consider this factor when choosing new lamps and chandeliers for a country house.

Even a novice electrician can conduct light in the house. In this case, it is only necessary to choose the right cable cross-section, complete the diagram and choose the most suitable lamps for the rooms of the dwelling.

To understand how to do it yourself, it is worth considering in more detail this species electrical work.

Preparation for work

First you need to choose the lamps to taste for each room.

We can only advise the types that will be most suitable:

in the corridor it is customary to use spotlights;
spotlights or a ceiling lamp protected from moisture are mounted in the ceiling of the bathroom. It is also worth installing a lamp above the mirror;
as for the bedroom, they usually choose lamps above the bed and a chandelier on the ceiling. Instead of a chandelier, you can give preference to the LED strip;
the kitchen should be as bright as possible. The most popular are led strip, spotlights and directional light lamps;
the living room is most often illuminated with chandeliers, and floor lamps are also added.

Do not forget about the choice of lamps, currently LED bulbs relegated to the background and "halogens" and classic incandescent lamps, due to their reliability and efficiency.

Any purchases of components should be made only after a clear definition of a plan for connecting lighting in the house.

After you choose the types of fixtures and lamps, you should calculate their number. To do this, you will have to determine not only the number of lamps, but also the estimated lighting power.

Power is determined quite simply - multiply the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the demand factor and the specific power of the lamps.

The number of lamps is even easier to determine - multiply the demand factor by the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and divide by the power of one lamp.

Having calculated both indicators, you can safely proceed to create a lighting scheme. A little advice about the cable that will be connected to the fixtures. The ideal option there will be a three-core copper wire with a cross section of one and a half square millimeters.

The final stage preparatory work- This is a drawing of a lighting scheme.

All the required elements must be applied to it:

the route along which the conductors will pass along the walls;
various types of lamps placed in the rooms;
distribution box location;
where the switches will be located.

After that, you can safely proceed to holding the light.

Main job

In this case, we will describe the process of connecting light with initial stage i.e. wiring.

Here step-by-step instruction:

turn off the power in the room;
strictly according to the scheme, make special trenches for laying conductors;
cut the wire into pre-calculated parts so that they are enough to run from the shield to the box and from the box to the lamps;
draw a lighting line. It starts from the shield, it is worth connecting the wires with soldering or terminals, excluding twisting;
connect and mount lamps;
“ring” the entire route to avoid a short circuit;
if no problems are found, cover the trenches with a gypsum solution;
turn on the machine on the introductory shield and check the operation of the lighting.

Important! All work must be carried out with strict implementation of the PUE, since your health directly depends on this.

That's all - the lighting is connected.

Several groups of lighting should be carried out, breaking them into different rooms. This will allow you to carry out repairs without turning off the power of the entire apartment.

Do not use an aluminum cable, it withstands loads much worse than a copper counterpart.

Instead of a classic switch, it is better to install a dimmer in the living room and bedrooms, thanks to which the brightness of the lighting is regulated.

Hidden wiring would be more practical. This method will not only not spoil the interior, but also make the wiring less susceptible to mechanical stress.

Each group of wires in the junction box must be labeled. This will help avoid confusion during possible repairs.

Useful video

You can get more information on this issue by watching the video below.

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today there are a large number of household appliances provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring electrical wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as skills in electrical installation. Of course, you can do the wiring with your own hands, but for this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring Rules

All construction activities and Construction Materials strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. The following are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

key electrical components such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where opened door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from the bottom up;
the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom outside, a separate transformer is equipped;
wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings and other things. For horizontal, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. From the floor, the height is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from the gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. Connection points are carefully isolated. Connection of copper and aluminum wire among themselves is strictly prohibited;
grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Work on laying electrical wiring begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. Creating a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced professionals. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, as well as having studied the basics of electrics, independently make a drawing and calculations for the loads on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electricity, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is conventions. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the installation location of devices and wires. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what household appliances will be.

The next step in creating the circuit will be the wiring to the connection points on the circuit. At this point it is necessary to dwell in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, serial and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate the laying of wires, all connection points are divided into several groups:

lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
toilet and bathroom lighting;
power supply of sockets in living rooms and corridors;
power supply for kitchen sockets;
power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify the wiring to the sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you do not want to ditch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watts), U is the mains voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength 220 volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amps.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross section of the wiring. To facilitate the selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the extremely accurate values, and since the current strength can fluctuate quite often, a small margin is required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

wire VVG-5 * 6 (five cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a three-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-2 * 6 (two cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-3 * 2.5 (three cores and a cross section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
wire VVG-3 * 1.5 (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
wire VVG-3 * 4 (three cores and a cross section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run a little around the house with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Protection circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually this is an RCD for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate RCD is installed at 32 A, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD is installed at 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is pretty simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable channels or boxes for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in the work on the installation of electrical wiring. The main thing during installation is to follow the safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a puncher or a grinder, a drill or a screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. It will not be superfluous laser level. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start installation with markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting shield. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed either to the installation of wiring in an open way, or to the chasing of walls for hidden wiring. First, with the help of a perforator and a special nozzle of the crown, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, strobes are made using a grinder or a puncher. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the strobe should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all wires fit freely into the strobe.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue with the placement and fixing of the wiring. The first - if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. The third - the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third, some explanations will have to be made. IN panel houses ceilings with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with the gating, we proceed to the last stage of preparation for wiring. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a puncher. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the premises. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished the wall chasing, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin installation with the installation of a lighting shield. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The shield assembled and ready for connection looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals at the bottom, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we start the wire VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 inside. From the side of the switchboard, the electric wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the upper contact of the RCD, and connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. RCD automata are interconnected in series at the top using a jumper from a white wire. Now let's move on to the wiring in an open way.

On the lines outlined earlier, we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the plinth, or vice versa, almost under the very ceiling. We fix the wiring box with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall with a puncher, hammer the dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

One more distinctive feature exposed wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being walled in. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and fix them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. We hang a label on the end of the wire indicating what kind of wire and where it comes from. Next, we lay the wires VVG-3 * 1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes.

Inside the junction boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we “ring” all the wires in order to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Hidden wiring is quite simple. A significant difference from the open one is only in the way the wires are hidden from the eyes. The rest of the steps are almost the same. First, we install a lighting shield and RCDs, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. This will be done by an electrician. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now let's move on to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the strobe and put it into the socket. The next step will be laying the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from switches and lighting points to junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “ring” the entire network with the help of a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we close the strobes with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Laying electricians in a house or apartment for experienced craftsman- it's pretty easy. But for those who are not well versed in electrics, you should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.