Power supplies for LED strips 12 volts. Power supply for LED strip. Choice of switching circuit

The wide variety of modern lighting technology impresses even people with a very rich imagination. With cosmic speed, new, more and more technological developments appear, providing not only high-quality and safe lighting, but also maximum energy savings.

One of such progressive directions is LED technology. There is currently a wide variety on the market LED strips, lamps and fixtures, differing in design and technical specifications. These devices have become an excellent alternative to the usual incandescent lamps and energy-saving lighting fixtures.

LED backlighting is widely used today in advertising and production areas, in interior design, in the design of car interiors, equipment household appliances etc. A huge range of proposed options for LED lighting allows you to easily choose required option, but its connection to the network raises a lot of questions for many.

The main component of the LED system is the power supply, which is a miniature transformer that provides power to the LEDs. Small dimensions allow you to discreetly place this device in any convenient places without violating the aesthetics of the LED design.

Purpose of the power supply

When using LED strips in interior design, it is necessary to take into account some features of such a solution.

First of all, you should know that directly connect the LED strip to the socket like an ordinary light bulb, it will not work. This is due to the fact that the operating voltage of the tape is far from 220 V. If you plug it into a regular outlet, it will simply fail.

So, if an ordinary incandescent lamp runs on 220 V, then the LEDs require only 12 V (this is the most common option, but there are also 24-volt models). Therefore, to connect a 12 volt lighting fixture into a standard household network, it is required to lower the voltage to the required value. Can cope with this task power supply for LED strip 12V.

Types of power supplies for LED strips

1. 1. Power supply in a compact sealed plastic case. The main advantages of devices of this type are compact size, pleasant appearance, tightness and minimum weight. The disadvantages include, of course, high cost, difficult heat exchange due to design features, and power limitation (there are no models more powerful than 100 W).
2. 2. Power supply in a compact sealed aluminum case. It has a lot of advantages, although it is the most expensive and rather difficult option. The main advantages of this transformer are reliability, tightness and durability. The aluminum case contributes to good heat transfer. The device is resistant to negative influence various factors: moisture, sudden changes in temperature, direct sunlight. The main scope of application is the professional production of outdoor illuminated advertising.
3. 3. Open type power supply. most popular and inexpensive option. Most often used for organizing home LED lighting. The main disadvantages are dimensions, twice the previous versions, unaesthetic appearance and lack of protection against direct moisture and dust.
4. 4. Network compact power supply. It is a miniature, simple and inexpensive device that does not require fixed installation. The power of most of these models does not exceed 60 watts. Most often they are used to provide power to LED strip structures, the length of which does not exceed 5 meters. The main advantage is ease of use: the tape is connected to the power supply and plugged into an outlet.

Connecting the LED strip to the power supply

When choosing a power supply, two important parameters must be taken into account: power (depends on the power of the LEDs per 1 mp and the length of the tape) and voltage (usually 12 or 24 V).

Before mounting the LED strip and placing it on the selected surface, you need to connect the strip to the power supply.

We will consider this process using the example of an open type block model. Its body is made in the form of a perforated metal box, through the openings of which air circulates and the radio components and the terminal module with screws are cooled. There are models in which a fan (cooler) is placed inside the case for cooling.

Power supply for LED strip has a marking indicating the purpose of the device and its main technical characteristics. Near each terminal screw there are markings to ensure the correct connection of the wires:

• L - phase, N - zero - this is the input of the power supply. Through these terminals, the device is connected to a 220 V network.
• G - terminal for ground wire. If there is no grounding in the house, this terminal is left free.
• The +V and -V terminals are 12V converted output.

Power supplies of this type are equipped with an on indicator - a green light is on. There is also a special swivel mechanism, referred to as "V adj". With it, you can slightly adjust the output voltage, in the aisles from 12 to 13 volts.

After connecting the tape to the power supply, it is necessary to securely isolate all contacts. For effective and accurate protection against accidental contact, a piece of cable duct of suitable thickness can be used. If this procedure is performed with ordinary electrical tape, then the finished result will look rather unattractive, and when using special protective covers that come with the power supply, it is impossible to ensure the proper level of electrical safety.

Of course, in residential premises it is desirable to install more reliable, compact and outwardly attractive devices in waterproof plastic cases. They are characterized by high electrical safety, therefore they do not pose a threat to children or animals if accidentally touched.

How to calculate the power supply for the LED strip

As mentioned above, when choosing a power supply, you should focus on specifications of LED strip, which will be connected. The main criteria are power consumption and rated voltage.

12-volt tapes can have different power consumption ratings. This is because they are directly proportional to the power and the number of LED elements on the tape.

For convenience of calculation, it is customary to take as a basis the nominal power of the LED strip 1 meter long. Thus, in order to choose the right power supply, the rated power of one running meter Multiply the ribbon by its total length.

Consider a small example of block calculation for SMD 3528 tape

There is a sealed LED strip SMD 3528, 60 LEDs per 1 meter. The operating voltage is standard - 12 V. The power of this type of tape is 4.8 W / 1 m. Those. 1 meter of tape consumes 4.8 watts. Any tape is sold in reels of standard length - 5 m. In my case, the power of the entire tape will be 24 W (4.8 * 5 = 24).

If you take a power supply with a power equal to the power of the tape, there is a threat of overheating of the PSU, especially if there is no access to it required amount air, for example, when it is located in a limited space under the ceiling.

If the power of the power supply is less than the calculated power of the tape, it simply will not turn on due to the operation of the internal protection of the unit.

Therefore, choosing tape power supply it is necessary to add 25 - 30% of the reserve to the calculated power. We get: 24 W + 30% = 31.2 W. We round up to the nearest standard PSU power - 30 watts.

To connect, I need 3.5 meters of tape (in a nutshell, there will be a semicircle plasterboard frame on the ceiling, a tape will be located around the perimeter of this frame). The power of a piece of tape 3.5 m long is 16.8 W, rounded up to an integer - 17 W.

We take a power margin of 30%, we get: 17 W + 30% = 22 W. We select the nearest block with a standard power of 24 watts.

Correct and uninterrupted operation of the LED strip and the block is possible only if this device has a 25 - 30 percent power reserve, this will provide the power supply with the necessary power reserve for its correct operation.

Using LED lighting in the interior, it is important that its operation is stable, durable and does not have a harmful effect on human vision. The correct functioning of LED devices is provided by voltage converters, which should be selected by making some calculations. A properly selected power supply for a 12V LED strip will protect the LEDs from voltage drops and premature loss of glow quality.

Unlike conventional incandescent lamps, LED designs cannot be connected to a 220V network. They are available with a supply voltage of 12V or 24V. As a backlight in home interiors, 12V LED strips are most in demand. To obtain the required voltage, special adapters are used - power sources that convert the voltage in the 220V network to the required value of 12V.

Before choosing a power supply for an LED strip, you should familiarize yourself with their types and characteristics. Stabilizers for LED products differ according to the following criteria:

• degree of protection - there are models hermetic and non-hermetic;
• body design - plastic, aluminum sealed for rooms with a high level of humidity, metal with perforation and contact pads (used for dry rooms and requires installation in a closed place to prevent dust).

Voltage stabilizers are an essential element of high quality lighting, ensuring maximum efficiency of LED light sources. They supply the necessary parameters with electricity, protecting against possible power surges and premature failure. Thanks to power supplies, LED strips emit a uniform glow without flickering.

Power supply for LED strip 12V: calculation and connection of the device

To understand which power supply is needed for the LED strip, it is necessary to make certain calculations that take into account not only the output voltage, but also the amount of current supplied to the load. Therefore, for each specific backlight, you should calculate the total value of the current consumed by all the LEDs in the tape.

Options for calculating the power supply for the LED strip

Before calculating the power supply for the LED strip, you need to familiarize yourself with the accompanying documentation for the product, which indicates the current consumption of one linear meter. In the absence of such data, the calculation can be made independently.

For example, let's calculate the total number of LEDs for a 12V strip 15 m long, with a density of 30 SMD 5050 LEDs per meter: 15 (m) x 30 (pcs) = 450 pcs. Considering that each SMD 5050 LED consumes a current of 0.02A (this value is given in the diode parameters table), the total current consumption of the entire strip is 9A (450x0.02 = 9). Therefore, a 12V power supply with a current carrying capacity of 9A will be required.

Helpful advice! Overall power supplies are quite difficult to hide in the cornice design. Therefore, to illuminate ceilings, it is not recommended to use tapes with a high density of LEDs, which require powerful converters.

When calculating the power of the power supply for the LED strip, we multiply the voltage and the resulting current value: 12Vx9A = 108 W. Therefore, a stabilizer with a power of at least 108W will be acceptable. However, it should be noted that the unit is selected with a 20% power reserve, otherwise it will quickly fail from overload. This means that the required power will be: 108x1.2 \u003d 129.6 W, i.e. for this case, the choice of a power supply for a 12V LED strip - 150 W will be optimal.

In addition, you can calculate the converter power using data on the main characteristics of flexible LED products. Having selected the desired type of tape, we find in the table the corresponding power value of one meter and multiply by the total length of the backlight. Considering the power reserve, we get the required power of the power supply.

Table of the main technical indicators of 12V LED strips:

LED class	LED size, mm²	LED strip power, W/m	Tape density, pcs/m	Luminous flux value, lm/m
SMD 3528	3.5x2.8	2,4	30	150
		4,8	60	300
		9.6	120	600
SMD 5050	5x5	7,2	30	360
		14,4	60	720

An example of connecting an LED strip to a power supply

It is necessary to mount the backlight to the selected surface after the power supply is connected to the LED strip. For example, we use the connection of a tape to a block, the body of which is made of metal and has holes for cooling the constituent elements and the terminal strip. One of the walls of the housing is equipped with a plate indicating the marking for the correct connection of wires.

Terminals with the designation "L" and "N" - phase and zero, are intended for connection to a 220V network. Grounding is marked with the symbols "FG". The terminals marked "G" are interconnected and are designed to connect the negative output of the LED strip. The three terminals with the symbols "V" are also connected inside the adapter and the positive terminal is connected to them respectively. It should be noted that this marking is also used on other converter models.

To connect a single-color tape, we connect the wires to the terminals, taking into account the polarity. The mains plug has three sheathed wires in brown, blue and green/yellow. We attach the brown and blue wires to the “phase” and “zero” terminals, not being afraid to mix them up, since they can be interchanged. The yellow-green wire is connected strictly to the ground terminal. If there is no ground, the terminal is not used: it does not matter for the functioning of the tape.

Note! The absence of a ground wire in the power cord is a violation of safety regulations when performing electrical work.

The above example of connecting an LED strip to a power supply is suitable for using a backlight from a single strip up to 5 m long. If you need to connect several pieces of tape, then you need to use a parallel connection scheme.

Scheme of parallel connection of LED strip power supplies

If during interior design it becomes necessary to highlight several decorative elements located at a certain distance from each other, parallel connection of tape segments to a voltage converter is used. Such a scheme is also used in the case when the lighting line of the structure is long enough and exceeds 5 m.

Serial connection of segments will lead to an uneven distribution of the load, as a result of which the LED strip will not work correctly, emitting weak light in the final section. It is possible that the extreme section of the tape will not glow at all, while the initial one will start to overheat and quickly fail. This suggests that it is impossible to connect the end of the first segment to the beginning of the second.

At parallel connection, each segment of the LED strip must be connected to a power source independently of the others. This can be done by connecting each piece of tape to the power supply with separate wires. But a parallel connection can be made in another way: lay the main line of wire from the converter, to which you can later connect individual sections of the LED strip.

In order for the contact of the tape conductors with the main wire to be reliable and strong, they use soldering or connection through special connectors - connectors. The use of connectors for connecting connectors greatly simplifies the repair of the backlight in the event that a malfunction occurs during operation. If the tape needs to be laid along a complex path, the tape itself can be used as the main wire.

The price of the power supply for LED strip 12V

You can buy a power supply for a 12V LED strip not only at lighting sales points, but also on the web pages of manufacturers and organizations selling LED products. There you can get acquainted with the range of converter models, their technical characteristics and the cost of blocks.

By contacting site managers, you can get professional advice on how to choose a power supply for an LED strip, depending on its type and operating conditions. Experienced specialists will help in choosing the right device that will ensure long-term and high-quality operation of the LED design. As a rule, all products are certified and provided with a guarantee from the manufacturer.

Note! When purchasing an open type transducer, remember that it can only be used in rooms with a minimum degree of humidity and in places where there is no risk of water ingress.

Before you buy a power supply for an LED strip, it is worth reviewing the cost of products offered by different companies. This will help in choosing a model with the necessary parameters on favorable terms. Estimated prices for power supplies for 12V LED strip are presented in the table:

Inverter model	Dimensions, mm	Main settings	price, rub.
PSU interior 12V 15W IP 20	70/39/30	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 15W, equipped with power indicator and voltage regulator	270
PSU 12V 35W IP 20	85/58/32	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 35W, has a power indicator and voltage regulator	380
PSU 12V 60W IP 20	159/98/38	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 60W, has a power indicator and voltage regulator	540
PSU 12V 150W IP 20	200/89/40	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 150W, equipped with power indicator and voltage regulator	780
PSU waterproof 12V 30W IP 67	220/28/20	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 30W, protection against moisture and dust	560
PSU waterproof 12V 60W IP 67	148/40/30	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 60W, protection against moisture and dust	1100
PSU waterproof 12V 100W IP 67	202/71,2/45	Supply voltage 110-220V, power 100W, protection against moisture and dust	1670

Sometimes there are situations when it is necessary to make a backlight on a small area. Then the purchase of a power supply will cost much more than buying the tape itself. In this case, you can make the converter yourself.

How to make a do-it-yourself power supply for an LED strip

The cost of switching power supplies for a high power LED strip often exceeds the flexible strip itself. However, there is an option to reduce the cost of a backlight device by using power supplies from outdated models of computers, TVs, tablets or other electrical appliances as a stabilizer. Surely such products can be found in every home.

The power of 12V converters from old electronics is usually from 6 to 36W. This is quite enough for the functioning of a small segment of LED lighting, for example, a kitchen apron area. You can use transformer models, but they are quite heavy and their power exceeds the same tape parameter twice. As a result, when such a power supply is connected to the tape, it overheats greatly, even if it is improved by means of an additional cooling device.

For normal operation of the LED strip, it is better to use switching power supplies, which, with sufficient power, weigh very little. Suitable, for example, a converter for 12V and 2A from a failed TV. The power of such a device is 24W (12x2), which allows the LED strip to work properly, and the power supply does not overheat.

Helpful advice! Chargers from 5V mobile phones can be used as a power source for a small self-assembled night lamp of 3-6 LEDs.

You can adapt the electronic ballast (current limiter), which fed the fluorescent lamp that failed, under the power supply for the 12V tape. To do this, it is necessary to convert the fluorescent lamp regulator into a step-down transformer, after which, using the circuit, connect an LED strip to it. The transformation is a winding of the secondary winding, then a secondary diode and a capacitor are added to the circuit. The main condition is that the power of the tape must correspond to the same ballast parameter.

Performing repairs to the power supply for LED strips

12V voltage sources that have failed are usually repairable. If you have enough knowledge and skills, you can try to repair the voltage converter yourself. Faults can be eliminated using the power supply circuit for the 12V or 24V LED strip, as they are identical.

The most common power supply problems are:

• capacitors C22, C23 fail - usually they swell or dry out;
• transistors T10-11 do not function;
• the PWM controller TL494 is faulty;
• dual diode D33, capacitors C30-33.

Malfunctions of other components of the converters are rare, but they are also worth checking.

To diagnose and fix problems, follow these steps:

• open the case and check the fuse. If everything is in order with it, it is necessary to measure the voltage on the capacitors (C22, C23), having previously applied power. The value should be around 310V. Therefore, the surge protector and rectifier are normal;
• carry out PWM diagnostics (KA7500 microcircuit) - if there is a voltage of 12-30V on pin 12, then we check the microcircuit. Otherwise, check the standby voltage power supply;
• the voltage at pin 14 after applying external power should be approximately + 5V. If not, you need to replace the chip. If there is, you need to check the microcircuit with an oscilloscope.

Repair of the power supply consists in replacing faulty elements with the same components or their analogues. In order not to encounter a breakdown problem later, it is necessary to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, since exceeding the permissible load limit will lead to the failure of the adapter.

Right choice power supply and related devices for LED systems guarantees the durability and quality of lighting. Thanks to these devices, LED sources emit a bright, flicker-free light that can elegantly transform your interior.

It's no secret that the LED strip cannot be simply plugged into the network - it will burn out without even a second working. But then how to provide it with the necessary voltage? That's what the stabilizer is for. talking plain language, this is a 12 V power supply for an LED strip, which equalizes the voltage to the required one. But today we will talk about what types they are, how they are arranged and whether it is possible to make such a stabilizing device with our own hands.

Read in the article:

12V power supply for LED strip - what does it do

The voltage regulator does the work of lowering the high mains voltage of 220, 12 or 24 V and converting AC to DC. If you figure it out, then the same actions are performed by Charger any mobile phone, but it will produce less voltage.

But such stabilizers can not only produce direct current at 24 or 12 V. The power supply for a 12 V LED strip can also be a controller. Thanks to complex electronic circuit such PSUs control the flickering modes and color changes of the RGB strip. They are capable of delivering enough power to "light" several separate segments of the LED strip, provided correct selection and connections. But first things first. And first, let's figure out what advantages and disadvantages can be noted in the need to use such power supplies.

Pros and cons of connecting LED strips to a 12V power supply

The main positive aspect of such switching can be called electrical safety - after all, the voltage of 220 V is life-threatening, which cannot be said about 12 V. This advantage covers all minor disadvantages, such as the need to purchase a PSU for the tape and the need to hide it somewhere.

Practice shows that even insulated connections in damp rooms can break down. In the case of installing lighting in the bathroom, this is doubly true. One can imagine what will happen if the phase is on cast iron bath while the person is in it. Surely everyone imagines a hair dryer that has fallen into the water ... If this happens with a 12 V backlight, then the person will not feel anything but a slight tingling, which many will not even pay attention to.

Another advantage is that if the stabilization device comes with the controller, then at 12 V it turns out to be quite compact. You can imagine what size it would be at a voltage of 220 V. Thus, the conclusion suggests itself that the minor inconveniences associated with using a 12 V power supply for LED strips are more than offset by the advantages that such a connection has.

Types of stabilization devices for the light strip

LED strip power supplies can be divided into several types:

• for cooling– active or passive. Active implies the presence in the PSU of a fan that forcibly cools the transformer;
• for execution- it can be a closed, sealed or open case. The latter is mounted only in dry and dust-free rooms;
• by functionality- an ordinary power supply unit, with a dimmer, a controller, or a combination of all these functions.

Of course, the most interesting power supply for LEDs with an RGB controller. This abbreviation in the marking of both the PSU and the light strips means that the device is multi-colored. It came from the first letters of the name of the main three colors on English language, which form the remaining 4. Such controllers are most often equipped with an IR receiver for the ability to control colors using a remote control. This allows you to turn the backlight on and off, as well as switch its shades from anywhere in the room.

Often a dimming function is also built into it - a slow dimming of lighting - which is also very useful.

Power supplies in a sealed case are installed in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, bathroom or kitchen. At the same time, a good controller is able to switch the backlight from one line to another as needed.

It is important to know! To ensure the uninterrupted operation of the LEDs, it is necessary to choose the right power supply not only in terms of voltage, but also in terms of power. The correct connection is also very important, which we will discuss in more detail below.

How to calculate the power supply for the LED strip

Such calculations are not difficult. All that is required is to calculate the total power consumption of a strip of light, and then add a margin of 20%. For example, let's try to calculate the required power supply for LEDs. Let's take a tape with SMD3528 elements, 3 m long and with a frequency of 120 pcs/m. For such a strip, the power consumption of all diodes in a segment of 1 m will be equal to 28.8 watts. We get 28.8 × 3 + 20%, which will be equal to 100.68 watts. The closest to this indicator will be a 150 W PSU, so it will be needed. Although a 100-watt unit will work quite normally with such a band.

These calculations are very important. After all, if you do not understand how to choose a power supply and do it wrong, it can simply burn out. And this is money thrown to the wind and wasted effort on installation.

Options for connecting the LED strip to the power supply

There are only two ways to connect this lighting equipment, like any other - this is in series and in parallel. But here the installation option plays a very important role. If you choose the wrong switching method, you can burn the contact tracks through which the voltage passes from one LED to another.

The choice of mounting scheme depends on the length of the strip sections. On each of them there are places for the cut. Usually the distance between them is 3 LEDs. And if the tape segments total more than 5 meters, then it can no longer be connected in series. We will figure out how to properly install and connect.

Serial connection - in what cases it is performed

Such switching is a connection in which power enters the second consumer, passing through the first.

If the segments are short enough, then they must be connected to each other in series. This will increase the length of the strip to the required. But at the same time, it should be understood that the total final length should not exceed the same parameter of the new LED strip. In other words, if it was sold in a 5 m coil, then after splicing, the final size of the strip should be less than or equal to the original one.

If the length is exceeded, there is a danger of burning out the conductive paths between the light diodes due to the passage of high power current through them. In this case, the tracks between the first elements are burned out first. When they are removed between the next, and so on until the length of the strip is normal for proper operation.

Parallel connection of the strip and how to do it

Parallel connection is called switching, in which power from the source goes simultaneously to two or more consumers. However, they are not connected to each other.

If it is required to connect a strip, for example, 9 m, then installation according to parallel circuit. To do this, we take segments of 5 m and 4 m. The wire leaving the power supply is switched in the same order with both bands. It turns out that power from the stabilizing device is supplied simultaneously to both segments. This allows you not to overload the tracks going from one LED to another.

It is important to know! With this installation scheme, do not forget about the operating power of the stabilizer. It consists of the total consumption of two segments.

In general, it is necessary to understand that when connected in parallel, the voltage drop remains unchanged, but the current consumption increases - this is quite important to know when installing such lighting equipment.

How hard is it to make a voltage stabilizer for a light strip

It should be noted that the assembly of such a PSU from scratch is only possible for a professional radio electronics engineer. But do not think that without a certain qualification it is impossible. After all, it is quite possible to use a factory-made transformer for this purpose. A good option would be to use a power supply from a computer. The main task here is to choose a device suitable for the LED strip in terms of power.

Before choosing a power supply for the strip, we determine the required voltage. If 12 V is needed for the diodes, then the output from the transformer should be from 12 to 20 V. It is quite convenient if you have a ready-made two semiconductor rectifier at hand, which is necessary for the stabilizer to work. And the third thing you need is a microprocessor. The most successful solution would be to use the 7812 chip.

By putting all the details together, you can get a power supply with an output current of 1.5 A, which is quite enough for an LED strip. Of course, it is unlikely that you will be able to assemble a controller for an RGB strip with your own hands, but there is a trick here. It is quite possible to use a block from an old Chinese garland, the parameters of which are indicated on the case. In this case, based on the power it gives out, you can calculate the required strip length and connect it to the controller, thus achieving the ability to switch between flicker and color modes. The only inconvenience will be that switching can only be done with a button on the block, which means that it will not be possible to hide it.

Another fairly simple way that does not require knowledge of radio electronics is to connect a light strip through a controller from an LED chandelier with a remote control. All technical data for calculating the length of the tape by power can be taken from the documentation for.

Is it possible to repair the voltage regulator for light diodes

This work is quite feasible even for home craftsmen who do not have certain skills and knowledge. The main task here is to determine which of the parts needs to be replaced. The main parts that can fail are the microprocessor and the rectifier bridge. Transformers rarely burn, but this happens. Let's try to understand how to deal with the breakdown.

It is worth starting the check with the simplest nodes, as in any equipment. Having opened the cover of the group of contacts, we set the switch of the multimeter to the position of alternating current 750 V (on some devices 1000 V) and applying power to the unit, we check whether it is supplied to the input contacts of the transformer for the 12 V LED strip.

Very important! When performing all operations with the transformer, you must be extremely careful and accurate. Do not touch live parts with unprotected parts of the body. Remember that defeat electric shock dangerous to life and health.

If voltage is supplied to the unit, then the supply wires are in order. We check the voltage at the output of the transformer. As already mentioned, it should be from 12 to 20 V. The next step is to check the diode bridge. To do this, set the value of the multimeter switch to a constant voltage with a value slightly higher than the output of the transformer. When touching the contacts at the output of the rectifier bridge, the device should show the same values ​​\u200b\u200bas the previous step (only slight downward deviations are possible).

If, after performing these steps, it becomes clear that the step-down transformer and diode bridge are working properly, this means a problem in the microcircuit. After a malfunction is identified, it will be necessary to replace the failed part of the circuit. The new one should have the same parameters.

Where to buy a power supply for LED strip

Buy necessary equipment These days, you can get it at any electrical supply store. Fortunately, the range of such products is now quite wide. You can also order it online. However, it is worth as carefully as possible to study the reviews of those who have already used this resource. You should especially beware of purchasing such goods on Chinese resources. Here's what one netizen has to say about it.

vitas77, Russia, Moscow: The driver went for almost three weeks, and then the day came when I found the long-awaited package in my mailbox, everything was packed quite well, the driver itself with soldered wires. I connected the LEDs, according to the description, connected the power, everything worked, but my joy did not last long, the driver warmed up noticeably and eventually refused to work. The device has not worked more than an hour. Bottom line, time and money wasted. At the end of everything written, I want to warn you, before ordering, contact the seller and find out as much information as possible.

More on Otzovik: http://otzovik.com/review_2975618.html

Let's try to consider how prices differ when purchasing such power supplies in regular stores and on Internet resources. Let's start with real sellers of RGB controllers (the last digit in the model name means the number of channels).

Make and model	Total current, A	Channel current, A	Voltage, V	Number of programs	Average cost, rub.
iMLed2	30	15	5-25	23	1200
iMLed4	30	20	5-20	23	1500
iMLed6	30	15	5-25	20	1900
iMLed9	80	15	5-20	20	3000
iMLed16x3	32	2	5-23	20	3300
iMLed16	80	15	5-20	20	3500

As you can see, the cost of such devices is not too high. But what about online stores? Let's try to find devices with similar characteristics.

Make and model	Total current, A	Output power, W	Output voltage, V	Number of programs	Average cost, rub.
CRIXLED CRCN N18-RFS-12	18	216	12-24	14	1800
ASD LS-CB-12	12	144	12-24	20	500
LSC 003	2	24	12-24	No	500
LSC 008	4	144	12-24	3	1500
RGB 144W	12	144	12	14	1200
Ecola LED strip	6,6	1500	12-36	24	2000

Generally speaking, the prices do not differ too much. This means that there is no point in taking risks by buying a “pig in a poke” over the Internet. Indeed, in this case, it will not be possible to make a claim to the seller, and the guarantee, most likely, will be absent.

Finally

A power supply for an LED strip is necessary - this is clear to everyone. The main thing is to choose one that fits in all respects to your light strip. And if all the calculations are made correctly, then such a voltage stabilization device will work for quite a long time.

We hope that today's article was useful to our dear reader. In the discussions below, you can always ask questions about a topic that is not clear. Write, communicate, share your experience. And our team will try to answer your questions as fully as possible and help you as much as possible.

Finally, we suggest watching a short video on the topic.

Video: connecting LED strips

With the help of a power supply, the voltage of 220 volts is reduced to 12 V, which is necessary for the glow of most LED lamps, including ribbons. To date, there is a wide range of power supplies, different in power, size and degree of protection of the case. Of course, for each individual case, you need to choose the right characteristics of the device so that it lasts a long time and without causing inconvenience. In this article, we will tell you how to choose a power supply for a 12V LED strip.

Power

The first thing you need to decide is what power the power source should be. There are blocks from 20 to 400 watts. To choose the right characteristics, you must first determine the power of the LED strip, and then add another 20% margin to this value.

You can find out the consumption of LEDs from the table:

Unfortunately, it does not indicate how much 5630 LEDs consume, which are also quite often used by the population. Typically, a 5630 LED strip consumes about 18 watts per meter (60 LEDs per meter).

For example, consider how to choose the power supply for a light source with 5050 LEDs (60 pieces per meter). According to the table, this model consumes 15 W/m. For a 5-meter segment, the power will be 75 W (15 * 5) and + 20%, we get 90 W. It is better to choose a 100 W PSU, which will be enough to power the backlight.

By the way, it is carried out according to the same principle!

Degree of protection

The second, no less important selection criterion is the degree of security, the type of case. To date, on sale you can find a power supply for LED strip with a degree of protection IP20, which can only be selected for dry rooms and IP67, the use of which is acceptable even in places with high humidity.

An unprotected device (in the photo at number 1) is recommended to be chosen for interior lighting, for example, hidden ceiling lighting in the kitchen. The advantage of such a PSU is that it can be hidden in the eaves, it has a compact size.

The aluminum hermetic case (second in the photo) is larger and can also weigh more than 1 kg, so it is rather problematic to hide it in the room. This type of case is better to choose for installation in rooms with high humidity. Quite often, a block in an aluminum case is used in outdoor advertising to illuminate signs.

The open type of execution (3) is rarely used, especially for connecting LED strips. This is due to the fact that it needs to be additionally protected from dust, and besides, the dimensions of the device are the largest. The only advantage of this embodiment is the low cost.

This, in fact, is all the recommendations that we wanted to provide you. We hope you understand how to choose a power supply for a 12 V LED strip. Finally, we want to pay attention to a very important nuance - the power source must be designed for exactly 12 volts, not 24 or 36. You can check this in the specifications, it should be written 220/12!

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• Not correct installation and connecting with errors

Here are the main three rules and mistakes that you need to pay attention to first.

1 rule

The LED strip is connected in parallel, in segments of no more than 5 meters each.

It is even sold in coils of this footage. But what if you need to connect 10 or 15m? It would seem that he connected the end of the first piece with the beginning of the second and you're done. However, such a connection is prohibited. Why is it so accepted?

Because five meters is the estimated length that the current-carrying tracks of the tape can withstand. With a longer length, the load will exceed the allowable one and the tape will definitely fail. In addition, there will be an uneven glow. At the beginning of the tape, the LEDs will shine brightly, and at the end they will be much dimmer.

This is how the parallel connection of LED strips with a length exceeding the allowable will look like:

At the same time, you can connect the tape both from two sides, and from one. Connection from two sides allows to reduce the load on the current tracks, and also helps to avoid uneven glow at the beginning and end of the tape.

This is especially important on a powerful tape - over 9.6 W / meter. This is how it is advised to connect professionals who have been installing LED products for many years. The only fat minus is that you have to drag additional wires along the entire lighting.

2 rule

The LED strip must be mounted on an aluminum profile, which acts as a heat sink.

During operation, the tape heats up, and this temperature negatively affects the LEDs themselves. They simply overheat and begin to lose brightness, gradually degrading and collapsing.

Thus, a tape that could easily work for 5-10 years will burn out without a profile in a year, or maybe even earlier. Therefore, the use of aluminum profiles in LED backlight Necessarily.

The only tape where you can do without it is SMD 3528. It is low-power, only 4.8W per 1m and is not so demanding on heat dissipation.

Particularly in need of a heat sink are tapes filled with silicone on top. In them, heat transfer occurs only through the substrate, from below. And this is sometimes not enough. If you still stick it on some plastic or wood, then there will be no cooling at all.

3 rule

The right choice of power supply is a guarantee of long-term and safe operation of the entire backlight.

The power supply must be 30% more powerful than the LED strip.

Only in this case it will work normally. If you pick it up close, exactly according to the power of all the LEDs, then the unit will constantly work at its limit. Naturally, such work will affect the duration of operation. So always give him a supply.

Connecting the LED strip

To install lighting with LED strip, you will need:

Power supply installation 220V

If you have not completed email. installation work, then you must first supply a voltage of 220V to the connection point of the tape. To do this, ditch the wall, or lay a cable channel and pull a three-core cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 1.5 through it. Lead it directly to the junction box where the power of the LED strip will be connected.

You can use an existing junction box where the main lighting is connected. The main thing is that the place allows you to freely connect additional wires and terminal blocks.

It is advisable to install the switch on the LED strip on the wires of 220 Volts, and not in front of the tape on the outgoing 12-24V. In this case, the block will not work continuously. Moreover, it is contraindicated for impulse blocks to work without load. In addition, this will increase the level of security.

Pre-check and do not confuse phase, zero and ground. Most often, zero is of blue color, the ground wire is yellow-green, and the phase wire is any other color.
But you can not trust only color marking! For more information on how to distinguish between zero and phase without errors, see the article "How to determine the phase and zero in the wiring."

Next, you need to lay a cable from this junction box in a strobe, corrugated sleeve or in a cable duct to the future installation site of the power supply. To place it, mount a convenient shelf. It can be made from pieces of plywood or drywall. Place a dimmer next to it.

Connecting the power supply

Having stretched the cable to the block, you can proceed directly to connecting the wires.

• connect the phase wire to connector L

• blue wire - zero, to terminal N

• yellow-green - to the terminal marked as Pe or ground symbol

Connecting a dimmer

Now you need to connect the dimmer. Here, use the flexible installation wire PuGV 1.5mm2 different colors. For example, black (for negative contacts) and red (for positive).

• measure and cut the required wire size

• clean the ends and crimp them with NShVI tips

First of all, connect the ends from the side of the power supply. Connect the negative wire (black) to the terminal marked –V. Positive wire (red) with terminal marked as +V.

Both wires must be connected to the dimmer from the side Power IN(input power). Connect the red wire on the dimmer to the positive terminal DC+, and the other wire to the minus terminal DC-

Next, again, are the installation work on laying the wire. Stretch it in the corrugation from the dimmer to the point of connection to the LED strip. Use the same PuGV. If the total length of the LED strip and backlight exceeds 5 meters, the strips are connected in parallel. Moreover, each of them is supplied with a separate power supply.

Proceed to connect the wires to the dimmer terminals. They usually have an inscription and are designated as Output Led. For reliable contact, it is better to crimp the stripped ends of the cores with tips.

Mounting and soldering wires on the LED strip

You can proceed to the installation of the tape itself. To do this, it must be measured and cut into the desired pieces. This can be done not in any place, but only where the dotted line is applied or scissors are drawn.

After cutting, the wires can be soldered to special contacts on the tape. Connectors can also be used for the same purposes, as well as for connecting individual pieces of tape to each other.

Look for the negative contact and connect the black wires there. To the plus contact, respectively, another wire goes - red. Do not heat the soldering iron to the maximum, otherwise you will easily burn the substrate. Recommended soldering time - up to 10 sec.

The opposite ends are also cleaned and NShVI tips are installed on them.

Once again, remember that for better cooling, you only need to lay the LED strip on an aluminum profile. It is pre-installed.

After all these works, all the cores of the wires are brought out to one place and connected to the corresponding supply wires, observing the phasing (positive and negative contacts).

Connection is best done through Wago terminals.