Cable for parallel connection of pole lights. How to connect a street lamp? Choice of fixture and lamps

Installation of street lighting is a responsible type of work, which should be carried out by professionals with the necessary qualifications and permits to carry out such activities. Experienced craftsmen adhere to the current rules and comply with the necessary standards, which allows you to install and connect all devices efficiently and safely. All this is necessary in order to prevent fire hazards and malfunctions of lighting during further operation.

On our website you can view the questionnaires the best specialists and do right choice. The base of masters is constantly growing. Today it includes offers from more than 1000 people who are ready to perform professional installation of outdoor lighting fixtures. Accept correct solution feedback on the work of specialists who were left by previous users who used their services will help.

Installation of street lighting: what is included in this service

Installation of outdoor lighting provides for the following types of work:

• installation street poles, lanterns and supports;
• laying wires;
• connection of a system that provides convenient control of lighting and backlighting.

In addition, the installation of lighting fixtures for outdoor use involves various operations: laying cable channels according to a pre-agreed scheme using the most appropriate method selected in advance, installing grounding, checking the safety of the operation of fixtures, and the reliability of their fastening. Additionally, this type of service includes a study of the site for the placement of electrical appliances, digging trenches, leveling the ground after installing a support, pole, lantern, etc.

It is the responsibility of specialists to carefully check the lighting for compliance with the required parameters. With the master who will install outdoor lighting, you can agree on further systematic inspection and maintenance of devices in order to replace light bulbs, switches, and, if necessary, troubleshoot in certain areas.

Experienced craftsmen offering services on our website have everything necessary equipment for quality electrical work. Before installing outdoor lighting, experts study the features of the area, determine the most suitable installation method, the required cable length and equipment power.

How the price is formed

The cost of street lighting installation depends on various factors. The price is influenced by the following parameters:

• the level of complexity of the upcoming installation;
• method of laying cable lines and their length;
• the number of lighting fixtures and their total power;
• the urgency of the task;
• section of each cable;
• terrain relief.

The exact price for services in each individual case must be agreed with the master (or team) on an individual basis.

• installation of mortgages and installation of fixtures

• assembling the circuit and connecting lighting automation

At the same time, the connection itself can be performed manually, when everything is started and turned off manually through a single switch, or automatically from light sensors.

But it is best to apply more universal option with the implementation of both methods in one switchboard. Let's consider it in more detail.

materials

Before starting work, you will need to purchase the following materials:

For lighting with a consumption of not more than 16A, this section is usually enough. But everything can depend on the length of the site and the power of the lamps.

If you are not limited financially, then you can choose an armored cable. In this case, you do not have to use HDPE pipes.

However, it will not be easy to cut it both in the switchboard and when connecting fixtures. Therefore, the majority uses the familiar brand VVGnG 3 * 1.5mm2.

Cable laying underground

Begin work with the preparation of trenches. In advance, draw up a diagram of the location of all the fixtures in your area.

After that, from the place where the cable exits from the switchboard РШ-0.4kv, you dig a trench 70 cm deep along all these points.

Next, fill the bottom with a sand cushion 10-15 cm high.

HDPE pipes are laid on top of it. In the end, you should end up with something like this cake.

Each pipe must have an outlet at the installation site of a street lamp. That is, they brought it to the first nearest one, made it rise above ground level and cut it off.

Then from here they laid the second, third, etc. in the same way. Thus, in the future you will get the so-called parallel circuit connection of street lamps.

At some points there may be 3 or 4 pipe exits to the surface. It all depends on the lighting scheme and the placement of garden lights.

They are very useful in the garden.

After the pipes are completely laid, tighten the cable into them with a cable and leave some margin (about 30-40 cm) in each light point at the outlet of the pipe.

Cut the cable in these places and pull it to the next lamp.

If you have an extensive lighting system and several lines have been laid, then each of the cables should be signed in advance.

When all the wires are laid, sprinkle the trench with earth.

At a depth of 30 cm from the surface, it is desirable to lay a signal tape.

1 of 2

It is inexpensive, but in the future, when you want to redevelop or lay additional communications on the site, protect your cable from accidental damage with this tape.

Installation of a street lamp

Now you can proceed with the installation of the mortgage for the installation of fixtures.

You make a formwork with a reinforcing mesh in the places where HDPE pipes exit. The size of the formwork depends on the bearing of the lamp post.

For good stability of the lamppost, the foundation must be buried at least 30cm.

The scheme of laying wires and mounting the mortgage in the section is as follows:

After that, fill everything with a solution and let it stand and harden, dismantle all that is superfluous.

There are garden lamps with a separate lower pedestal, recessed at ground level. They do not need to make any formwork for the thrust bearing.

It is enough to fill the bottom layer with gravel in order to ensure the drainage of rainwater.

Next, fix the bottom disk on a small layer cement mortar.

At the same time, be sure to control the installation horizon with the building level.

It is also not necessary to fill the solution inside such a cabinet. It just does all the wiring and wiring.

There is another simple option for mounting a mortgage. A round flange is taken according to the diameter of the base of the lamppost.

Reinforcement is welded to it.

A hole is made in the ground with a manual garden drill to the appropriate depth, and all this is poured with concrete.

The rigidity of this design is even better than that of a simple concreted formwork. In addition, all mounting studs will already be brought out.

When concrete base done, pass the cable through the bottom of the lamp post, and fix the base itself on the mortgage.

1 of 2

To do this, apply it to the concrete substrate and mark the attachment points for the anchor.

Drill holes to the desired depth with a puncher.

Insert and hammer a dowel into them.

Then firmly pull the base of the lantern to the concrete platform.

Next, you need to connect and connect all the cable cores. Strip the ends of the wires and put them in the junction box.

The connection can be made with any convenient way.

The simplest is the use of Vago terminal blocks.

The most important thing is to securely insulate and seal this place. This can be done using a special electrical insulating compound.

After complete sealing, place the flooded junction box in the base and finally mount the street lamp.

There are models of luminaires in which all the wires are connected directly on a special terminal block located inside the column.

Everything will depend on the type and type of street lamps. And they have a very rich variety, there is plenty to choose from.

You do all these connection operations with all the other lamps in your suburban area.

Assembly and connection of the street lighting circuit

We proceed to the installation and connection of all switching equipment for lighting control in the panel.

The general scheme for connecting and controlling street lighting from a photorelay using a starter will look like this:

Let's take a closer look at how it works and is going "live" with your own hands.

In order to provide two lighting modes - manual and automatic, use a three-position switch.

In the first position, through the usual one-key, you can manually turn on and off street lighting whenever you want.

It will also come in handy if the automation suddenly fails or fails.

The second position is the automatic control mode from a remote light sensor and a twilight relay.

In position "0" - lighting is completely off.

On DIN rail in order in one row, set all the necessary automation:

• 3-position switch or as it is also called transfer switch

• twilight relay

• modular starter

• automata

First of all, connect the power phase. Start it from a separate differential machine in the shield, first to a three-position switch (contact No. 1).

And then to the twilight relay (lower contact L) and the input contacts of the starter No. 2 and No. 4.

If the power of the fixtures is small and the total current does not exceed 16A, then the entire connection can be made with jumpers as in the figures above.

If you have powerful lights, such as DNAT, or the entire perimeter is hung with spotlights, then the starter should only be powered directly from the machine without any jumpers.

Lead the output from the starter to the upper terminals of the machines, to which the cables laid in the ground to the lamps will be directly connected.

After connecting the supply phase, connect the zeros. One for terminal N of the twilight relay.

And the other on the starter coil A2.

In order not to constantly climb into the control cabinet with manual control, on a wall convenient for you, next to the switchboard, you mount an ordinary single-gang switch.

Bring a two-core cable VVGnG 2 * 1.5mm2 to it.

You put one wire of the cable on a three-position switch (terminal No. 2).

And start up the second one on the winding of the modular contactor A2.

Otherwise, all this will lead to incorrect operation and false positives. Pull the VVGnG 2 * 1.5 cable to the sensor from the shield and connect it to its contacts.

Connect the other end from the photo sensor cable to the twilight relay (contacts No. 2 and No. 4).

When the relay is triggered from outside, the twilight relay in the panel will close its upper contacts #1 and #3. Therefore, these terminals also need to be supplied with a phase from the three-position switch from terminal No. 4.

After the twilight relay, it enters the starter coil A1.

As a result, the following scheme of operation of automation is obtained:

The 3 position switch is in position II. It gets dark outside, and therefore at a certain moment the photorelay is activated.

The closure of its contacts starts the twilight relay and the phase through it enters the winding of the modular contactor. Zero on the winding is constantly on duty.

As soon as a phase appears on it, the starter retracts and supplies voltage to the upper terminals of the lighting switches. Street lights and lanterns light up.

At dawn, the photorelay opens its contact, forcing its "twilight brother" in the shield to break the phase. The contactor drops out and the light turns off.

Want to turn off all automation? Simply flip the input switch to position I.

Proper lighting in the courtyard of your house is not only the beauty of the territory, but also the safety of movement on it. If all the paths are clearly visible, then you need to try to stumble over something.

Today we will talk about the installation of street lighting, we will analyze all the working stages and project development. The topic will be interesting, so pour some tea and read carefully.

So, the installation of outdoor lighting can be divided into three main working stages:

• Territory marking, digging trenches and laying cable is one;
• Installation of mortgages for lamps and, in fact, their installation is two;
• And assembling the entire circuit and connecting it to automation- that's three.

Interesting to know! The circuit can be controlled both manually and with the help of various sensors, such as lighting, movement or sound. But the best solution would be to combine these methods in one switchboard.

materials

What materials do we need for all this?

• The cable VVG-ng Ls is three-core, with a cross section of 1.5 mm2. Of course, the cross section, first of all, will depend on the current consumed by the circuit and the length of the section, but since LED lamps are mainly used today, and rarely any object consumes more than 16 A, such a cable is enough.
• This cable is not the most expensive, but it needs to be additionally placed in pipes, and if you really do not fit into the budget, you can purchase an armored cable, which does not need additional protection, and thereby save. However, it is worth noting that such a cable will be quite difficult to cut when connecting fixtures and in a switchboard.

• HDPE pipes - in principle, we have already mentioned the purpose of this element - a protective sheath for the wire. Pipes are used different - corrugated, double-walled and smooth. The photo above shows a not entirely correct example - a blue stripe means that the pipe will go for drinking water. We also need an option without stripes at all.

• Modular contactor with normally open contacts.

• We will also include a light sensor in the circuit, or we will replace its photorelay in combination with a twilight relay. This will be the automatic part of our circuit.

• Street lights that you want to install on your site. It can be any device you like. Distinguishes them from room, first of all, the degree of their protection from moisture and mechanical damage.

• Modular machines.

• Three position switch.

Now let's see how a circuit is assembled from all this.

All stages of installation of street lighting.

We will not bore you with a sea of ​​text. Let's talk only about the most important and accompany each assembly action with photographs. So, the instruction will be more clear and understandable.

Laying underground utilities

Before digging trenches, you need to draw up a plan of your site, preferably on a clear scale, and mark out the locations of the lamps and the optimal position of the routes to them.

• On the plan, be sure to mark all the objects that may interfere with the work. This will save you from unnecessary actions and help you accurately calculate required amount material.

• Further from the location of the switchboard РШ-0.4kv, we dig a trench 70 centimeters deep along all points of future lamps, as you marked it earlier on the plan.

• A layer of sand is poured at the bottom of the trench. The height of the pillow should be 10-15 centimeters. If sand is not available, then loose earth can be used instead, but this option is not the best, since significant soil shrinkage will subsequently be possible.

• A HDPE pipe is laid on top of the pillow. It should have an exit at the point of each lamp, that is, we bring it to the right place, bend it up and cut it off above the ground level.
• We immediately lower the cut off part down and lead further to the next point. The result is a classic circuit with parallel connection of light sources.

• Depending on the connection scheme and the method of arranging the lamps, it may be necessary to bring both three and four pipes to the surface.

• By the way, it will not be superfluous to install garden sockets, under which you also need to provide conclusions. This device will be very useful, for example, if you use an electric lawn mower.

• HDPE pipes have a cable inside, or in another way - a probe. With it, the cable is pulled inside.
• Do this and leave 30 centimeters of margin on the leads for the convenience of further work.
• The cable is cut in the same way as the pipe and stretches to the next lamp.

Advice! If the line in your area is branched, then each cable is recommended to be somehow marked for orientation during the connection.

• After the wire drawing is completed, the cable must be covered with a layer of sand. Its thickness is also 10-15 centimeters. As a result, the pipe we have is inside the pillow.
• Then we pour another 20 centimeters of earth on top of the sand and tamp it down.

• We still have about 30 centimeters to ground level. At this depth, it is recommended to lay a signal tape, which may one day save someone's life. The price of such a tape is mere pennies, but it is difficult to overestimate its value.

Installation of street lamps

Naturally, there can be no question of any fixing of fixtures directly to the ground, except, perhaps, the most compact options that can be simply stuck into the ground. Even for low products, a solid and reliable base is required.

• An excellent basis for ground lamps, and even more so lighting poles, will be a concrete foundation.
• We install the formwork from the boards in the places where the HDPE pipes are led out.

• It is folded into a rectangular box. Its size will depend on the size of the bearing of the mounted lamppost.
• In order for the lantern to stand securely, it is necessary to deepen the base into the ground at least 30 centimeters.
• Inside, it is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh, which must be raised by 5 centimeters.

• Next, the formwork is filled with concrete. For these purposes, a solution of grades M150 or M200 will be enough.
• Concrete must be allowed to stand for several days to harden. After that, the formwork is dismantled, and the trenches can be completely covered with earth and compacted.

By the way, there are lamps equipped with a special lower pedestal, which is immersed in the ground. For such options, there is no need to make mortgages.

Their installation is as follows:

• We make the foundation base of ASG, gravel, look for crushed stone in order to provide good drainage for rainwater.

• Further, with the help of cement mortar, the lower part of the base is well fixed. It must be installed strictly according to the level, so use the appropriate tool.
• The solution is poured only outside the cabinet. Inside it is not needed - there will only be wires and their connections.

• Next, the upper disk is mounted and the wires are connected. Be sure to do this through the terminals, for reliable protection and isolation of contacts.
• Then the lamps and glass of the lamp are installed - everything, it is ready for use.

There is another way to create a solid base for lampposts, and we must mention it.

• A flange is taken, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the lamppost;
• A reinforcing cage is welded to it, as shown in the photo above;
• In the ground with garden drill a hole of sufficient depth is made;
• Further, everything is poured with concrete, of course, after all the wires are brought out.

Such a base will be much stronger than the one we considered first in this chapter, and at the same time, the mounting studs will be brought out, which is very convenient. But let's go back to our first foundation to figure out what to do with it next.

• We take the lower mounting part of the lamppost, pass the wires into it, put it on the base, and mark all the attachment points with a pencil.
• By marking, we make holes with a perforator desired diameter and depths for prepared anchors.

• We immerse dowels in the holes - they can be plastic, and fasten the thrust bearing. Everything is simple and clear without further ado.
• Then all the wires are connected. This is done inside the junction box, which most poles are equipped with.
• The connection is made in any convenient way, but it is better, as we have already said, to take exactly the terminals. This is both more reliable and much faster than twisting.

• It is very important to make high-quality insulation of connections. In some cases, junction boxes are filled with compound, as shown in the picture above.
• Before doing this, be sure to check the performance of all connections, otherwise picking out the terminals later will be a very difficult task.
• The sealed box is mounted at the base of the post, after which it is fully installed, according to the attached instructions.
• Not all poles are equipped with a junction box. There are more modern and convenient solutions when special contact blocks are included in the design - very convenient, but you have to overpay a little.

All lamps and sockets on your site are installed in a similar way, after which you can proceed to the most interesting thing - connecting them.

The last step is connection

So, in order to connect street lighting with your own hands, you need to understand and remember the diagram shown in the figure above. As we have said, it includes a photo relay and a starter.

• Our task is to provide two lighting control modes - manual and automatic. To do this, we need a three-position switch in the circuit.
• In the first position, the lighting can be turned on through a simple switch. You may rarely use this mode, but it will definitely be useful when the automation fails, which happens quite often.
• In the second mode, automation will start, reacting to a remote light sensor through a twilight relay.
• The third position "0" completely turns off all lighting.

• We install all the prepared equipment on a DIN rail located inside the switchboard, in the following sequence, from left to right: a three-position switch, a twilight relay, a modular starter and automatic machines.

• From a separate differential machine in the shield, we bring the power phase to a three-position switch. Connect the wire to pin 1.
• From this contact we connect the lower contact L of the twilight relay.
• The following pieces of wire connect to the phase contacts 2 and 4 of the modular starter.

Attention! The picture shows the connection of automation with jumpers. This is allowed only on condition that the current in the circuit does not exceed 16A. Otherwise, the starter may only be connected directly from the machine.

• Outputs 1 and 3 of the starter are connected to the top contacts of the machines. Cables that we laid in the ground will be connected to them from below.

• Next you need to connect the zeros. One is connected to contact N of the twilight relay, and the other to the starter coil A2.
• Nearby place an ordinary single-gang switch. He will be needed for convenience, so as not to constantly climb into the control room.
• We bring to it a two-core VVG-ng cable of the same cross section that we laid in the ground.

• One of the conductors of this cable is connected to the winding of the contactor A1, and the second to terminal No. 2 of the three-position switch.
• As a result, if you set the three-position switch to the first position, then by pressing the switch key, you will directly apply voltage to the starter, bypassing the twilight relay.
• The starter will retract and the power will go through the machines to the lamps.

The next task is to install our photo relay:

• Please note that the sensor is not in the shade of any objects or trees, but also under direct sunbeams he shouldn't be there.
• If these rules are neglected, the sensor may not function correctly, allowing false positives.
• The same wire is laid to the sensor as to the switch.

Outdoor lighting - connection of automation

• The wire is connected from the other end to the twilight relay, pins 2 and 4.
• When the external relay is triggered, the twilight relay closes its upper contacts - 1 and 3.
• Accordingly, a phase must be connected to them, which will go from the three-position switch. For this we use its 4th terminal, the jumper from which will fit to terminal 1 of the twilight relay.
• Terminal #3 from the relay is also connected to coil A1. We remember that when power is applied to it, the light starts to burn.

You can fully describe the operation of this part of the circuit as follows:

• The three-position switch is set to position 2;
• When it gets dark outside, the photorelay works;
• Closing its contacts causes the twilight relay to work, which closes contacts 1 and 3.
• The active phase has already been connected to contact 1, which means that when triggered, it falls on the contactor, which already has zero connected.
• Next, the starter is retracted, and voltage is applied to the lighting machines, the light starts to burn.

As soon as light enters the photorelay, its contacts open and the twilight relay breaks its contact. Everything is simple!

So, we have sorted out the standard connection scheme with you. Knowing the whole chain, you can even independently carry out repairs to street lighting in case of failure of one or another equipment.

The video in this article will help you understand the topic even better.

17-11-2015, 12:56

The lighting provided by LED street lights and lamps is recognized as one of the most efficient, economical and safe. You can appreciate the convenience and advantages of LED lights both during installation and during subsequent operation. They are durable, provide clean, even light that is close to natural daylight and is completely safe for human eyes.

Choose and buy LED lights today, means to ensure good visibility not only of the crowded streets of cities and metropolitan areas, but also of the private sector, which often suffers from insufficient lighting. The arrangement of a plot of a private house with poles equipped with LED lights is practiced today among many owners of suburban real estate. The question is different - how to properly connect LED-based lights to ensure energy savings and a long lamp life?

Connection features and diagram

Installing LED street lighting fixtures, depending on the type, has its own subtleties. For this, lanterns are used, mounted on low plastic or metal supports up to one meter high, mounted on reinforced concrete pillars height from 2 to 7 meters and are attached directly to the facade of the building. As a rule, the installation and connection of lamps on the facade or roof of the house does not cause serious difficulties. Another thing is to install spotlights by connecting to a photo relay.

photorelay- This is a special compact device, in another way, it is also called a "twilight switch" or a light sensor. It ensures that the flashlight turns on at dusk and automatically turns off at dawn. In assortment modern market there are many types of photorelays, which can additionally be equipped with a motion sensor. In this case, the light turns on and off according to a set timer, for example, at midnight, but flashes again when moving (car, person, pet).

Choosing and purchasing a street lamp for a pole through an online store means getting a complete set and purchasing an additional photorelay. Commercially available photo relays are easy not only to use, but also to install - the connection diagram on the back of the device greatly simplifies the process. Before mounting several lamps, a power wire (cable) with a cross section of 1.5 mm ^ 2 should be laid with a phased connection of LED lamps. Together with the connection diagram, the permissible load must also be displayed. Important Rule- do not allow the installation of a large number of fixtures that give a strong load on the network.

You can also purchase an LED spotlight in the wesem-light.ru store. All goods of excellent quality with delivery across Russia.

Do-it-yourself street lighting installation is a complex of labor-intensive activities that even a novice electrician can do.

Main installation steps:

1. Workplace preparation
2. Wiring method definitions
3. Selection of street lamps
4. Calculation of the cable and other elements
5. Schema creation
6. Installation of lampposts
7. Connecting light sources
8. Automation installation

To begin with, we will consider the main types of lamps, supporting structures and methods of laying wires, after which we will provide to your attention detailed instructions about how to make street lighting in a private house or in the country with your own hands.

It is important to know

What is the lighting like?

Today, outdoor lighting can perform decorative and technical functions.

As for the types of street lamps, we recommend giving preference to the following products:

• backlight garden paths- solar-powered lanterns;
• porch of the house - lanterns on brackets installed on the front side of the building;
• fencing - light from lanterns on poles;
• in the garden - decorative lanterns on legs and in the form of garden figurines.

Step 3 - Creating the Schema

After determining the number and type of fixtures, it is necessary to make a street lighting scheme at their summer cottage. To do this, it is best to use the cottage plan, which indicates the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe yard, all garden buildings and communications. All that is needed is to photocopy the plan and apply your scheme to the copy.

• should be carried out at a depth of 0.7 meters. Moreover, the distance from the buildings should be 0.6 m; from the pipeline - 0.5 m; from parallel cables - at least 0.3 m (preferably 0.5 m).
• Aerial cable laying should be carried out at a height of 6 m from the carriageway and 3 m from garden paths.
• The light from street lamps should not “hit” through the windows and enter the territory of the neighbors (suddenly they will be against it).
• The lighting radii should not intersect at several lamps, it is better to move them a little apart so as not to overpay money for electricity in vain.
• Best to apply LED lights, they are more durable and do not harm the environment too much. In addition, they have high efficiency and light output.
• All light switches must be connected in places protected from precipitation. If this does not work, protect the product outside with a plastic container.
• Try to use copper wires, they are not so prone to mechanical damage.
• Required for all lighting fixtures.

Step 4 - Installing the supports

First you need to install street lighting poles. If they are represented by wall structures, drill holes in the wall for the anchor and fasten the support.

Please note that the installation of supports must be carried out using the building level. Any misalignment can adversely affect the efficiency and durability of area lighting.

For the installation of vertical poles for lanterns, it is necessary to fill the foundation. To do this, a well breaks out (with the help of a rotator), sand is poured to the bottom and carefully compacted. Next, a wooden formwork is installed, inside of which is placed plastic pipe(she will leave a hole in order to run the underground cable to the lamp through the foundation). The ends of the pipe are sealed so that the solution does not get inside. Formwork is poured concrete mortar, and while it has not frozen, an anchor is installed strictly vertically in the center for fastening the pole. When the cement is fully set, you can move on to installing the support and installing street lighting fixtures.

Step 5 - Connecting Lights

Approaching the final part, it is necessary to install lamps on poles, connect them to the electrical wiring, and also where necessary. Best of all with the help of terminals, which must be insulated with a heat shrink tube or other waterproofing product. When all the fixtures are installed in their places, a control check of all connections, zero resistance with phase and power on is carried out. In theory, everything should work out and by the evening you will be able to enjoy your work. As you can see, making street lighting with your own hands is quite realistic and not very difficult.

Do you need automation?

Automatic control of street lighting is increasingly used in private homes and summer cottages. This is not only convenient, but also allows you to significantly save energy. With manual control, as a rule, in the evening you turn on the light on the street, and when you wake up, turn it off. At the same time, all night long, the lanterns are used only to scare ill-wishers away from the dacha.

To date, automatic photorelays - light sensors - are also popular. These devices allow you to turn on the light when moving within the range of the sensor, as well as when it gets dark. In simple words if no one enters the yard, the sensor will not work. When motion is detected, the lights throughout the area will turn on. So you can control the safety on the site and at the same time save electricity. turns on when it gets dark. Again, very convenient, because if you leave a private house, the light will automatically turn on and off.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make street lighting with your own hands. We hope provided step-by-step instruction was useful and new for you.

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