Electric auger drills for soil. How to make an ice drill from a screwdriver with your own hands. Making a garden drill

When building a house and landscaping, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing pillars, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required during the device. Make these holes with a motorized or manual drill. They are available in stores in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are a lot of them.

Designs and application

Easier-to-make garden earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not just about size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. Works well on "light" soils. On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is the basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a dredger can be made of.

materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round pipe or square section. Diameter - from 3/4' to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.

Knives-blades can be made from:

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the ground easier to cut.

Piku-drill is made from different materials- a lot of her designs. They make just a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And also a combination of the two.

Pika - one of the tip options

And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and the method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters

Holes will have to be cut in the center of the disks themselves - so that they fit snugly against the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, follow it with a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - it will be necessary to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

It is also necessary to spread the edges by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it is unlikely to be bent.

From saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, therefore it is sawn in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high performance. Even used discs have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters - large ones. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

If a drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with. The process of work is this - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled it out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tormented by dragging a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

And all these are handmade drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - to water, underground probes for heat pump and so on.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut for the rod, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. Welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for piles TISE

In the author's version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. This makes the job easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel acts as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is loosened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below - the second version of a home-made drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the hinged structure with bolted connections.

The dredger is from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must constantly be moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

For planting plants, making a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but the garden one often has to be removed, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden drill drawing

Video materials

During pouring concrete mortar each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods of different materials (metal, wood). All work can be done much faster with the help of special devices- vibrators. But a factory vibrating plate purchased for home use is not always an economically viable option, because it is expensive. To work for her several times, and then leave her to just lie does not make any sense. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a perforator with your own hands. Homemade will speed up the tamping process and improve the quality of the work.

To implement the project in practice, you will need the following materials and tools:

• metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
• an iron bar or reinforcement (rectangular or circular) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
• perforator;
• an old drill or a pike, a spatula, a chisel, even a crown;
• grinder with discs for metal;
• welding machine with electrodes;
• ruler or tape measure;
• marker.

The minimum power of the perforator should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into the perforator cartridge. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. This requires special electrodes.

It is better that the rod also be from of stainless steel. Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is heavily affected chemical substances, and also wears out mechanically faster.

The sequence for manufacturing a tamping nozzle is as follows:

• cut off a rectangle of the required dimensions from a steel sheet with a grinder, and a piece of the required length from a round or rectangular rod;
• weld the plate to either end of the rod;

• cut off with a small margin the seat of the drill;

• weld it to the rod.

If you do not use an old drill, then you will need to make a special adapter for a punch chuck, or use machine tools to carve a seat on the free end of the rod. It is easiest to immediately use a drill of the desired length. On the basis of a perforator, more complex devices can also be made, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.

Homemade rammer for concrete small size(the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.

Owners of cottages or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. Used for earth drilling hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take a longer time, and will also require large labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is not cheap, so craftsmen figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a puncher.

But home-made devices, in comparison with factory counterparts, have the following cons:

• they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
• they are not suitable for working on hard ground.

Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:

• perforator;
• conventional earth auger;
• adapter or reducer.

The last 2 parts of the device can be made by hand. For sale even special nozzle (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful puncher or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the perforator, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. Optimal value the first parameter for a manual model of a homemade yamobur is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the punch chuck or through a gearbox. For models with a power of 2 kW, the latter is not needed.

Optimal for drilling is the number of revolutions of the working nozzle from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

• continuous;
• with periodic soil extraction.

In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a puncher, such tools and materials:

• angle grinder;
• a welding machine with a brand of electrodes corresponding to the metal used;
• electric drill;
• unnecessary perforator drill;
• metal reinforcement or rod for the manufacture of rods;
• material for the cutting part;
• cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.

The work of converting a perforator into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground is directly in the creation of nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:

• cut off a piece of the desired length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
• knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
• cut off from the drill its base, designed to install this nozzle in a perforator cartridge;
• weld the cut fragment to the tube.

The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from the old perforation drill, then you will need to grind a seat from the rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter used.

In addition to the manual model, you can make like a stationary drilling rig, possible variant which is shown in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade yamobur, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.

The operation of the created device is shown in the video.

Manufacturing of the cutting part

Used as knives:

• discs from circular saws suitable diameter;
• ready-made augers from factory motor-drills or agricultural machinery;
• a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut out, sharpening them and bending them as needed.

The cutting part can be made removable (bolted) or fixed (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.

Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:

• be larger in diameter (enough for 5 mm) than this parameter for the holes being created;
• it is necessary that the angle between the blades is 25-30 degrees;
• the front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.

It is desirable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool enters the soil mass more easily.

At its core, converting a puncher into a vibrator is either earth drill consists in the manufacture of a nozzle that is appropriate in terms of functionality and size. Difficulties can arise only if you independently prepare a seat on the rods for a cartridge or adapter. In general, the manufacture of the considered options will not require much time and effort.

If you have ever tried to dig holes under, for example, fence pegs, then you know what a tedious and tedious task it is. So I recently had the same need in my country house. Only the pits had to be made not under the fence, but for the piles, on which the foundation would subsequently rest. frame house. According to the project, there should be a lot of these piles, it is simply unrealistic to drill so many recesses by hand. Accordingly, I became interested in ways to automate / mechanize the process of soil drilling.

It immediately turned out that such tasks had already been set before mankind and, therefore, such cool things as earthen motor-drills were invented. Typically, this is a frame with two handles (so that two people can hold it), on which a gasoline engine with a gearbox is mounted to increase torque. Rotation from the gearbox shaft is transmitted to a special earthen drill, it is also called an auger. Such devices are not cheap - from 10 to 100 kilo rubles.

You can also rent a tractor-based pit drill. This is provided that you can drive close to the drilling site. There are modifications with a special long manipulator, which is very convenient. Such a hole drill drives up to the desired area, fixes itself there, and immediately drills a whole bunch of holes within a radius of up to 8 meters. But I liked this option least of all, because I wanted my own earth drill: I wanted it - I woke up at night and went to drill holes!

In general, I was almost about to buy a Hitachi gas drill for my earthworks, but then fate presented me with an amazing surprise in the person of my neighbor, who for no reason started talking about his earthen electric drill, which he did not know what to do with. The drill is electric earth drill, i.e. this dredger is mains powered. In addition, it has a built-in battery, which, however, does not last long, but nonetheless.

The modern market is saturated with various kinds construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, a pit drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice, it does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of fulfilling the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small amount of construction or garden work– is not always appropriate. Renting is also not cheap. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Earth drill from a drill

In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine), which, using a simple mechanical drive, is connected to a conventional hand drill. The drill can be made independently.

Drill from a drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial execution.

skyle FORUMHOUSE user

Many say that they just bought such an auger and fixed it to him a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine Specifications

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a reducer for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with a “drill-auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us not by chance. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user

There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from an ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

• N - power (W).
• M is torque (Nm).
• n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 is a special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than consumed. Accordingly, less torque. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will seriously have to think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows you to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on the torque that a 2 kW drill creates (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the torque value that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drilling nozzles, well diameter, etc.

The above quotation mentions drilling methods. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant removal of soil. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a large amount of torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, which has drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed outside.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the target depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require high torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proved themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.

Gearboxes for yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, fixtures and components that have been idle for a long time, because they were not worthy of use. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for a moped that has served its age, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and that it is necessary to provide sufficient torque on its working shaft.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE user

I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gearbox from it. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum case with the gearbox), then fixed it through the gear to this gearbox, an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).

About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to be made from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Is it possible to use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have such.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the ability to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of the gearbox posted by the user melomandk.

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user

Here is a gearbox I found. That's just the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (on the body) - somewhere around 15 x 15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di grise FORUMHOUSE user

My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is a grinder (3000 rpm at the output). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but I took a hard rammed earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - from the spring.

bed

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special frame.

The design of home-made frames, as well as of mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

lifting mechanism

As a lifting mechanism, you can use a chain drive installed inside the central rack. Raising and lowering is carried out either with an additional electric motor or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). It didn't need to be deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the lift involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE user

The main electric motor of the drill drives up and down the square tube. It moves due to the winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil from the well.

For comfort mechanic020 made a control panel that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum under itself and exacerbating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power - 1kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working one by simply tilting the bed.

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the frame, which will help to set the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of the bed are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can perform a complex design calculation on their own, but anyone can use the experience of our portal participants.

Yes, user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home laid in the design of the bed different metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation, which was created by the user PwrWW"from what was" (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user

The most difficult thing was to find two even solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of channel 80 and a corner from scrap metal. I also found 4 p-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that, if necessary, the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it. It is especially important to observe this condition on hard ground.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

Here is what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the handle hole that is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with a sufficient plane of surfaces. If you want even more reliable, provide a clamp for the landing groove on the drill end switch.

mechanical drive

The design of a mechanical drive connecting a drill or other engine to a working shaft earthen drill, is not particularly complex. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse cone, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole, removable knees made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.

In order to prevent damage when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made of a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user

Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear stud, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then it does not give away in the hands.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary truck springs.

For the manufacture of blades, you can use disks from a circular saw.

The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must comply with the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°…60°.
• It is desirable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which the installation will be easier to enter into dense soil.

How to fix a garden drill in a drill.

Everything can be done by our Russian Kulibins, so a home-made ice drill is not a problem for us, if the task were set.

To begin with, let's decide what manufacturing process we have to do, because each thing can be:

• make from scratch;
• finalize;
• retool.

Today's editorial task obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and refining existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.

What are we not talking about?

In this material, you will not read about the conversion of manual ice drills to electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual manufacturing here, but there is a connection of three parts: an auger, an adapter and a drill together.

Manufacturing from scratch

It is even scary to begin to describe this complex process. Without locksmith, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let's start.

To describe the manufacturing process, we have chosen several models:

• shoulder blade
• annular;
• framework;
• screw.

They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or a brace. So let's try to make it first.

Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:

1. We select a pipe of a suitable diameter.
2. On the ground or floor, we draw the bends of our rotation.
3. Pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with corks so that it does not spill out. Bending without sand can damage the metal.
4. We bend the pipe using a gas burner or a blowtorch.
5. We weld a bracket to the bottom of the brace for connection with the auger.
6. We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul storm.
7. We grind and paint the workpiece.
8. We buy a repair kit for the Tonar ice drill in the store.
9. We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.

The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - the manufacture of the lower part of the mechanism.

shoulder blade

This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting piece cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the down tube. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.

Although such a drill can make a hole in the ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of shortcomings:

• dulls quickly;
• the absence of an auger makes it often necessary to scoop out sludge;
• slowly cuts ice;
• difficult to rotate.

Annular

At the base of such a drill is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. A strip of steel is twisted into a spiral and fixed pointwise to the frame. It appears to be a fully functional model.

Framework

This do-it-yourself ice screw is also easy to manufacture. Let's describe this process in detail:

1. We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
2. In the lower part, steel bars are welded to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
3. At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis from the pipe. You should get two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately equal to eighty degrees.
4. We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives with bolts and nuts.
5. We adjust the angles of attack of the knives with the help of additional linings made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.

Sludge from the holes made by an ice drill of this design will also have to be scooped out with a scoop.

Auger

This one cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main detail of such a mechanism is the base for knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.

Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:

1. We weld a part to the pipe from above for connection with a brace.
2. From below we also attach a seat for knives for welding.
3. We cut circles from sheet metal.
4. We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
5. Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
6. We grind and paint the resulting product.
7. We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
8. We screw the knives.

Motorization refinement

In this part of our story, we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.

An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Shtil, Hugsvarna or Chinese comrades, also require the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.

Converting a trimmer to an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding bar. The adapter for connecting such a mechanism to the screw is the easiest to make.

Each of the chainsaw or trimmer models requires its own refinement, so there is no one universal manufacturing recipe. Best to find experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together with him make a decision and draw a diagram of the manufacture of the desired adapter.

No less important for work on winter fishing is the gearbox for the ice screw. With its help, the parameters of the rotation of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.

If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some kind of operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.

An important task is right choice an auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.

It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and the finished product will be used for a long time. It is important to make sure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, parts are available and interchangeable.