How to make a stove for a summer cottage out of bricks with your own hands: masonry rules and step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself mini Russian stove: specifics and procedures for building a compact stove Do-it-yourself brick cooking stoves of small sizes

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You can heat a small room with a do-it-yourself mini-oven. There are several options for mini-ovens, which differ in material and complexity of construction.

Steel ovens. This type of mini-ovens is not expensive and easy to install, but the service life of such a model will be short-lived.

Cast iron stoves. The cost of such furnaces is quite high, but it can also last for a very long time, but only if it is not subjected to sudden changes in temperature.

Brick mini-oven. This type of furnace is the most popular today and there are reasons for this:

• Keeps warm for a long time
• Ability to do it yourself
• Available fuel
• Possibility to make an oven with stove or oven
• High reliability

Due to the availability of material and ease of execution, even a novice stove-maker will be able to make a mini-oven with his own hands.

Most often, a mini-oven for a summer residence is performed with or without a stove for cooking. It is the second option that we will consider in more detail.

Advantages and disadvantages of mini ovens

Like other stoves, a brick mini-stove has positive and negative sides. Of the positive aspects can be identified:

• The oven will last a very long time if properly maintained.
• This design heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time, giving it to the room.
• You can make a mini-oven made of bricks with your own hands.
• In the manufacture of the design can be made in any size and shape.
• If desired, you can supplement the design with a stove or oven.
• A brick mini-oven is safe, since it does not heat up much, unlike furnaces made of other materials, so the likelihood of getting burned is minimal.

There are also disadvantages of this design:

• Due to the heavy weight, a foundation is needed for the furnace, which will take time to fill.
• During operation, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of safety and strictly follow the drawings in order to make the oven correctly. Otherwise, it may be dangerous to use the oven.

DIY materials for making a mini-oven

In order to make a mini-oven out of bricks with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• Two types of bricks (refractory and red)
• Clay construction and chamotte
• Fine sand (well sieved)
• Ruberoid
• Doors for the furnace, blower and for the hole through which the furnace will be cleaned
• grate
• gate valve
• Pipe

From the tools it will be necessary to prepare a trowel, level, plumb line and tape measure. After everything you need is prepared, we proceed to the laying of the furnace.

The foundation for the furnace and the dimensions of the furnace

Before starting work, you need to choose a place so that the walls of the furnace are at least 50 cm away from the walls of the room. You should also think about the foundation: you can make a regular foundation of sand and cement. To do this, mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. The sand must be of good quality, and if you take ordinary sand, then it must be well sieved. The dimensions of the foundation depend on the size of the furnace plus 10 cm for a margin on each side, but the height of the foundation should be about 1 m. It is worth remembering that such a foundation dries for a long time.

Under the mini-oven, you can make a foundation of clay and brick. To do this, we dig a hole, the depth of which should be at least 5 rows of bricks. Then we fill it with clay to a height of a couple of rows of bricks and ram it well. Then we lay roofing material on the clay, and bricks on it, which must be coated with clay. The last row of bricks should be level with the floor, and it must also be covered with roofing material. Only after that we proceed to the manufacture of the furnace itself. This version of the foundation is preferable because it requires less time and effort than the previous version, and you can start manufacturing the structure right away.

Considering that the stove will be smaller than the usual ones, the dimensions of the furnaces for mini-ovens will be smaller, but they can also have regular sizes if desired. If the firebox is small, then it will be inconvenient to lay firewood, so we will consider the option of a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven with the size of fireboxes for a conventional stove.

Step-by-step instructions for making a mini-oven

Given the layout of the mini-oven for giving, let's get to work.

Stages 1 to 12

Stages 13 to 24

Stages 25 to 35

Masonry from 1 to 12 rows

The first row is laid out, and in the second it is necessary to provide a place for the blower door. The rows must be coated with a solution. Before installing the blower door, it must be wrapped with asbestos, and the door will be fastened with wire.

During the laying of the 5th row, a grate is installed. Starting from this row, up to the 15th, the masonry should be made with refractory bricks.

In the 6th row, a firebox door should be installed, with which the same work should be done as with the blower door (wrap with asbestos, secure with wire).

Lay out the 7th row according to the layout. Each layer must be coated with a solution. 8, 9,10, 11 and 12th rows are laid out in accordance with the layout.

Masonry from 13 to 24 rows

From the 13th row, we begin to form the combustion chamber and vertical channels. The main thing here is to carefully follow the orders, otherwise you can violate the correct design.

On the 15th row it is necessary to lay out a layer of clay-cement mortar. It will strengthen the bottom of the cleaning chamber, after which you can install the door itself.

Masonry from 25 to 35 rows

In the 25th row, the bottom surface of the second cleaning chamber should be repaired, also laying this row with a clay-sand mortar, and then install the door.

In the 28th and 32nd row, two valves should be installed, with the help of which the thrust will be regulated.

On the 35th row, we begin to raise the chimney, as shown in the layout.

If everything is done correctly, after completing all the work, you should get such a compact model.

This model has following sizes: 51 cm wide, 89 cm deep and 2.38 m high. Even beginners can make such an oven. In addition, if there is no experience in the furnace business, then do more complex models not recommended, as you can get confused in the orders and violate the integrity of the structure, which will affect the quality of its work and service life.

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves various models. The stove in the interior, by its very presence, makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn, it provides a comfortable temperature in the rooms, which is doubly pleasant when it rains outside the window or a damp cold wind blows.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact ovens for country houses designed to work on various types fuel:

• Gas;
• Electrical;
• Models that run on coal, pellets or wood.

Wood stoves are in great demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, a breathtaking smell of real wood, a special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and solid country cottages.

Speech, in this article, will focus specifically on wood stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heater will work on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves It is customary to subdivide according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special structural elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit, or for preparation hot water. varieties of such structures are bath stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruits, a water-heating box, an oven, a summer chimney and a connection point for a samovar.
• Production material:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • cast iron;
  • brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near the wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows you to put them in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one bookmark of firewood;
  • long (up to 12 hours), which is achieved due to the system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the rulers and.

Cast iron furnaces

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. They are used as a backup source of heat, which can be used in emergency cases. Unlike thin-walled steel stoves, cast iron stoves, having warmed up quickly, store heat for a long time.

Products of this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip in the country water heating. Their power is enough to heat one and two-story country houses large area. Provided that CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for a summer residence is the most durable, reliable and status option. But these stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is repeatedly compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the models of stoves is used as a summer cottage:

• dutch
• Swede
• Kuznetsov ovens.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose fairly compact options, stoves of a similar design are available for self-laying (with strict adherence to the orders), have an acceptable cost (even when ordering work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model, which:

• will provide the optimum temperature in the country house with a minimum consumption of firewood;
• will heat up evenly over the entire height;
• maintain a comfortable temperature in the cottage for a long time;
• have a maximum heating of the outer walls of not more than 95 ° C;
• the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
• its estimated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
• the appearance of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. It is dangerous for human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
• visually appealing appearance.

What is required for work

If you decide to lay out a brick oven on your own in the country, you should start by choosing its type. Then the desired order is selected (in the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design to an experienced stove-maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having order in hand, you can go to purchase materials (and the missing tool). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick kilns. The difference is only in the amount of materials needed.

To work, you will definitely need:

• brick, but not any, but the one that is indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

• by size:
  • 250*120*65 - normal;
  • 250*120*80 - thickened;
  • 288*138*138 - modular;
• By strength (from brand 75 to brand 300);
• By varieties:
  • For masonry, only brick of the 1st and 2nd grade is suitable. From it is placed the body of the furnace and the chimney;
• Refractory (other name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

• Clay red (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is subdivided into:
  • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
  • Medium (≤ 15%);
  • Skinny (about 30%);
• Sand (preferably quarry);
• Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay, in the manufacture of mortar for laying the firebox;
• Water (preferably rainwater or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
• Slaked lime. This material will be required during the arrangement, as well as the head chimney, which rises above the roof;
• Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For country stove Mark 400 and above will suffice.

Additional materials

• Steel profiles (if they are provided for by the order);
• Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
• Annealed steel wire;
• Asbestos cord;
• Waterproofing (roofing material);
• Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
• Refractory mastics (Russian "Garant" or "Monolith"), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial possibilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while improving its quality). Purchase pre-made dry masonry mixes. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to the main and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

• Furnace door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
• Blower door;
• Views;
• gate valves;
• Rotary dampers;
• Flygarka.

Tool

For convenience, you will need the following tool:

• Stovemaker's hammer;
• Pick;
• Construction trowel (other name, trowel);
• Jointing for masonry joints (desirable);
• Cycle knife;
• Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
• Measuring tool:
  • Roulette;
  • folding meter;
  • plumb;
  • square;
  • levels: building, water (if any, laser);
• falcons;
• grater and half grater;
• grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
• extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Masonry

If earlier the laying of the furnace was carried out exclusively according to the existing orders, today the Internet provides an opportunity to lay out a simple furnace, guided by step by step photo with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since the correct reading of the orders requires primary knowledge of the furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photo), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the furnace has a significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg in this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making the foundation.

In the event that the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend that you perform a screed in place of the future one.

After that:

• we perform waterproofing of the masonry site by laying a sheet waterproofing material(roofing material);
• on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
• under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (position 1 of the order given above);
• in the second and third rows we have a blower door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using a wire;
• put the 2nd and 3rd row;
• the 4th is done with fireclay bricks;
• A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm should be provided;
• The laying of the fifth row is carried out "on edge". We form a stand inside the chimney, for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight advance beyond the plane of the rear wall of the furnace, “on dry” (without the use of masonry mortar), a “knock-out brick” is placed;
• In rows 6-8 there will be a firebox door. We also wrap it with an asbestos cord around the installation perimeter, connect a mounting wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
• We put the 6th row “in a spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. We perform grouting of the inner walls of the chimney with a damp cloth (we remove excess mortar);
• To ensure the dressing of masonry joints, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a brick in ¾ (blanks of the required length are made by a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
• In the ninth row, the firebox door is closed from above. Above the firebox, to center the fire under the burner, a “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed.
• The 10th row, in order to keep the door open, is placed with the brick offset to the back wall. Before starting masonry, a wet asbestos cord should be laid, which will play the role of a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and brick;
• Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). In order for this not to lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a plug-in (metal) or is made attached;
• 12 row. This is the installation site of the valve, which is pre-sealed with asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
• Then a ¼ smoke pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
• The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  
• The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the plinth is nailed.
• The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove). Joints between brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is desirable to paint all stove appliances with refractory black paint.
• A trial firebox is being carried out (small wood chips, paper). After that, the design is aged for 14-15 days to complete the natural drying.

Below is another selection of photographs that shows that a brick oven can not only be laid "from scratch", but also completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, pipes and foundations).

The stove, which stood in the country for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair, or complete replacement furnace, after checking its actual condition, it was decided to replace it, while maintaining (in order to save money and time for laying) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

• Furnace brick brand "Vitebsky" - 450 pcs;
• Chamotte brick for the firebox - 40 pieces;
• Sheet asbestos - 1 sheet;
• Cement M400 - 1 bag;
• Chamotte clay - 3 bags;
• Refractory black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600 ° C - 1 can;
• Refractory varnish (colorless) - 2 bottles;
• Door with glass for the firebox - 1 piece;
• Blower door (with the selection of a pattern to match the main one) - 1 piece;
• Medium-sized grate - 1 piece;

Views and valves are used from an old furnace.

And now we look.

1. This is what it looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, gaps around it and crumbling bricks in the furnace were the basis for alteration.
   
2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove-maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no furnace under it was solved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut in its walls, into which a corner was inserted. So that the latter does not diverge, it was fixed with a wire. And two boards were brought under it (this is the second floor of a country house).
3. Then the furnace began to be dismantled. At the same time, they tried to save the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were kept on the pipe. This eliminated the need to re-pass the floor and ceiling covering.
   
4. Demolition continues. It got to oven. Since it is not needed for the new furnace, we delete it.
   
5. Reached the lower chimneys
   
6. Removed everything down to the foundation
   
7. And this is "a look through the pipe." The sky is visible. So traction is guaranteed.
   
8. The baker was a professional. Therefore, instead of jointing the seams, he suggested removing the chamfer from them. It turned out great.
   
   
9. Laying the first brick of the new kiln
   
10. The bottom row is done. Used bricks inside.
    
11. This is what a professional laying looks like
    
12. The lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom heating of the air in the room.
13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. Right, bottom view.
    
14. The turn came to the firebox door.
    
15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
    
16. Installation hob for 1 burner (fitting).
    
17. Above the firebox, the master formed a protruding brick visor. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the furnace, but will be held by this element.
    
18. The hob is placed on the mastic. Nearby is a functional step for dishes, which is very convenient.
    
19. And this is the “belly of the furnace”, one of the knees of the internal chimney.
    
20. And these are all 3 knees in the "group portrait"
    
21. Firebox
    
22. Almost full length. The visor and latch are clearly visible (on the side).
23. Above hob the dryer is displaced.
24. And here you can see how the issue of warm air access has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (view from below)
    
25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
    
26. The stove reached its ceiling, which is also equipped with a visor for beauty.
    
27. Starting pipe laying free space, seeking to combine it with the existing part.
    
28. This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will not go in for sure. And it is necessary.
    
29. This did not stop the professional. The stove-maker simply used two jacks and raised the rest of the pipe to the desired height.
    
    
30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
    
31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
    
32. We cover the surface of the furnace with varnish, and metal elements. black paint. Work completed.
33. Control furnace.
    
    

They build in country houses heating or heating and cooking brick mini ovens These facilities allow you to heat the house in the off-season and during winter time of the year.

A furnace designed exclusively for heating is erected if suburban area all year round there is gas and electricity. If there is nothing to cook food on, they build ovens with a hob.

Schemes of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space which is especially important for small spaces. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height stoves depends on the height of the building and the model chosen. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel pipe.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

In small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking, they build niche for stove.

In another niche located above the firebox, you can build oven, hot water container. Niche space is often used for drying things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a size bases 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) And 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area of from 25 to 40 square meters . Ceramic full-bodied (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). This oven has the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• cleaning hole smoke channels;
• hole for building a chimney;
• a niche with a hob;
• niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

metal heater elements buy in a hardware store. To the list factory parts included:

• furnace door size 20 x 20 cm(solid cast iron or with refractory glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door measuring 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and refractory glass. There is a possibility of regulation of draft.

• blower door ( 14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke channels ( 20 x 14 cm);
• grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
• hob size 20 x 35 cm(with or without hole);
• 2 valves;
• steel angle profile length 50 cm(fastened between the furnace sheet and the furnace wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace sheet put asbestos cardboard of the same size. For kiln works required:

• 222 units full-bodied red brick;
• finished masonry mix for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken on the ground in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. Base This model has the shape of a rectangle with a size 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

The compact dimensions allow the heater to be built in the corner or in the center of the room. If the cottage has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into the wall openings ( interior partitions).

Main elements this model:

• firebox;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• chimney outlet.

A door with heat resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door. Furnace build on a solid foundation buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Important! The oven is laid out from ceramic and fireclay bricks. A firebox is laid out of fireclay bricks, and the lower and upper parts of the heater are made of ceramic bricks. The laying is done on sand-clay and fireclay-clay solutions.

Making a small stove for a summer residence with your own hands

In this example, we will consider in detail the preparatory and main work on the construction of a heating compact mini-oven in the country. Important points works are:

• choice of finished project;
• choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
• acquisition materials;
• purchase of metal details and accessories;
• kiln preparation tool, purchase or rental of power tools (grinders, vibrators);
• construction foundation;
• construction stoves.

You will also be interested in:

Selecting a finished project

Main requirement to the heater - the ability to give off heat for several hours after heating. Of great importance fast warm-up at home with economical fuel combustion. Choice also influence:

• weather region in winter months and off-season
• square country house and the number of heated rooms;
• price materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick oven with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

The choice of model is influenced owner's tastes. A well-built heating stove of this design can not only heat, but also decorate country house.

materials

Choice quality materials allows you to build a reliable furnace. For work need:

• ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
• fireclay bricks ( 130 units);
• factory (ready) mixtures for furnace works (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing a fireclay brick for a firebox, pay attention to the marking. bricks with letter "U" Made from recycled, recycled fireclay. They have lower strength values ​​compared to bricks with letter "SH".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick. The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks, black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for material in another store.

Mixes are bred water according to package instructions. They do not need to add salt, other ingredients.

Advice. Masonry paste of normal consistency, typed on a spatula, does not fall and does not flow when the tool is tilted 45-55 degrees.

The metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

• furnace door size 30 x 20 cm;
• blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
• grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
• roofing material ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
• sheet steel size 50 x 70 cm;
• asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
• steel corner (rolled) length 50 cm;
• 2 oven valves size 13 x 13 cm.

To fix the doors in the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long self-tapping screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on the specific conditions of construction. Minimum thickness of the base for this model of a small furnace - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it covered the freezing zone, A little rose above the floor or was equal to it. For construction, concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, gravel, waterproofing roll material are used.

For a compact small oven, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation. Installation and pouring in progress in the following order:

• A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
• The bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it is a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
• A pillow of loose stone is leveled and rammed.
• The pit is lined with roofing felt, roofing material, the docking points are coated with mastic made from bitumen, tar.
• Installed in a hole formwork to the desired height, a steel reinforcement grate is installed inside it.
• The pit is poured with concrete, a vibrodrill is used to compact and release air bubbles.
• After complete setting and drying of the cement, put on the base two waterproof layers from ruberoid.
• Two layers of oven bricks are placed on top of the roofing material (on mortar).

The construction of the brick oven itself

Before starting work, masonry mortars are kneaded. brickwork lead to strictly horizontal surfaces. This parameter is checked at the foundation construction stage. Below is a description of the serial laying of a heating mini-oven.

1 row. According to the scheme, a brick is laid, forming a blower. The lower frame of the blower door is fixed to the blower portal.

2-3 rows. Laying according to the scheme.

4 row. Fixing the blower door in the masonry, masonry according to the scheme.

5 row. layout combustion chamber. Installation of grate. Installation of the furnace door in the portal (laying fasteners in the seams).

6-9 rows. Laying the combustion chamber according to the scheme. Fastening the door holders into the seams.

10-12 rows. The lining of the combustion chamber.

13-15 rows. Masonry of the vault of the firebox, formation of the smoke channel of the furnace.

16-17 row. Masonry according to the scheme, embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Sealing the door fasteners into the seams.

18-24 rows. Formation of smoke channels of the furnace.

25-26 row. Embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Channel laying.

28 row. Installation of the bottom valve, laying channels.

29-31 rows. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the furnace is arranged, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Solid masonry, closing the vaults of channels, forming a chimney. Installing the top flap.

33-34 rows. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

35 row. Construction of the first layer of masonry chimney.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame made of wooden beams and plumb, which leads to deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process it was discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After completion of work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

Wherein stove walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrect sealing of the door fasteners can lead to its displacement. To avoid skewed door, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully embedded in the seams. If the displacement is detected during the construction process, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are closed again.

Useful video

Video in which the 3D model shows phased construction a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted with its own color.

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The advantages of the Russian stove can be listed for a long time: it warms and feeds, and provides a warm bed for sleeping. But in a small house there is not always enough space to accommodate a bulky structure. The masters of the stove-makers came up with a small copy - a mini Russian stove built with their own hands is not inferior in function to a full-fledged design.

For those wishing to try their hand at the stove business, we suggest considering one of the options for building a mini-stove with orders and a description of the technologies. If you get help experienced craftsman, you can independently build a beautiful, efficient, useful heating unit that will last for decades.

Fundamentally, a miniature stove does not differ from an ordinary Russian stove - it has a similar design, the same functions, the same design. Home hallmark is the size: it takes up significantly less space on the floor due to the fact that the stove and the crucible are arranged and located side by side.

The floor area occupied by the structure is usually no more than 1 m x 1.3 m, but other options are possible, a little more or less. The height of the structure is the same as usual: the main part at the top smoothly rebuilds into a re-tube and ends with a pipe extending into the ceiling.

Both the large cooking chamber and the stove are actively used for cooking. A small firebox melts quickly enough, so it is used in the summer when heating the whole house is not needed. On the burners, you can easily place 2-3 pans at once, and if a large oven is also heated, then bake bread.

The stove also stays hot for a long time, so it can be used for reheating or simply for keeping breakfast or lunch warm.

A feature of a compact stove is the preservation of two fireboxes, which are used with the same activity. But they are often located on two opposite sides - in this case, a free approach will be required both in front and behind.

It must be remembered that a mini-copy does not differ in terms of danger from a large Russian stove, therefore, during construction, it is also necessary to insulate the foundation and nearby surfaces that are prone to fire. Walls, wooden sections floors, the edges of the opening in the ceiling are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets.

Difficulties may arise for those who want to build a couch - of course, the mini-version does not imply a full-fledged place to relax, the occupied area is too small. However, you can build a niche for drying, as well as install a small boiler

DIY construction technology

In everyday life, there are many options for mini-designs that are worn various titles. Often they are simply called Russian stoves or "housekeepers". If you plan an independent construction of a heating structure, then it is better to stop just at the construction of a Russian mini-oven - it is made both easier and faster.

The first two stages are universal and suitable for the construction of any Russian stove. Starting from the 3rd stage, we present development by A. Emshanov- an excellent example of a compact and multifunctional mini-stove.

Stage # 1 - preparing tools

Even for the simplest masonry, a special stove-maker's tool is required. Despite the apparent primitiveness of the devices, each of them has a clear purpose. We list the main tools that are best prepared in advance.

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A small brick oven can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will allow you to quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this and instructions on the manufacturing rules will be offered. You can also watch the video in this article and select the desired modification.

Mini ovens and their features

small brick ovens for giving have their own characteristics, before making a final decision, you should familiarize yourself with them.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a furnace is safety, because usually country houses they are built of wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, the suit can completely flare up, like a match. Among other things, the chimney and the device itself must be airtight, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide, which gets inside, can lead to rather unfortunate consequences;
• The stove, which is placed in the summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for quite a long time and not get damp at the same time;
• Warming up and quick kindling of the device, heat distribution is also the most important condition for a furnace of this type, because during rain or when hard work is completed, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat preservation is an extremely necessary moment if you go to the house with an overnight stay;
• Without hob country house it is almost impossible to manage, especially if the electricity is periodically turned off in the village and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel that is used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted. various options- brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the furnace has the ability to mount a hot water register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heater allows you to fold and install it on your own, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of masters in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is the aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform the room, or bring it into general design some gray spot.

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for summer cottages is used quite often.

But when installing, you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was brought out correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this building it will be necessary to create a strong foundation that will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. This bathroom condition if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull the base of the furnace;

Attention: Do not forget that such furnaces do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it has not been used, several drying furnaces must be carried out without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is precisely because the brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are mounted in the country only if they live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of a firebox;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings that are made of brick useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and a unique atmosphere. And more importantly, they are multifunctional. Professionals in the furnace business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small oven

A small do-it-yourself brick oven is installed without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are just making a furnace with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a rather heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and you do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal furnace and, to increase the heat capacity, simply overlay it with bricks.

Attention: In the first option, your building will take up more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Furnace door;
• Lattice;
• Chamotte brick.

The size of a small stove is 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on edge or flat. This type oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation device is not prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well fixed.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has a more functional ability and a heating part, in which a cooking part is provided. She also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace is being built without any problems and during the day.

At the very beginning, it is necessary to melt the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sharp temperature changes can cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dries properly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mix

Everything can be done by hand. Then the price will be much lower. In masonry, it is quite possible to use several compositions. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For laying bricks, clay-sand is used, cement mortar. For example, screening instead of sand for the mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If for the grade of cement M400 sand is added ¼, then for the screed, the screening must be mixed in a ratio of 1/6;
• A solution of sand and clay is a little more difficult to prepare, because it will take much more time. In order for the clods of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that there are no small lumps left;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - it all depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without problems, leaving no traces, and in its density it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How do you make a stove

How to make a small brick oven now consider in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build the stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Refractory material must be used for the furnace part. It will also withstand charcoal fires. As a solution, it is better to use a clay mixture. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead we put roofing material, film, glassine or hydrosol in it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter) it is required to pour out and level the sand;
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After that, we align all the bricks in one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can proceed with the installation of the blower door. It is imperative that it be wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We fix it with a wire, after which you can safely proceed to laying the next one;
• Fireclay bricks are used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which a grate is installed. It is mounted above the blower only when the third brick row is fully formed;
• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on the edge, in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay stands for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a small protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After that, install the furnace door. Again, before proceeding with the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first is placed behind, and the second - on top of the door;
• Also, for the reliability of fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, which is twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat, here we definitely check the contour of the last row. But the sixth row is laid with an edge. Then we rub the walls of a large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next step;
• On the 7th row, the brick is laid flat. Next, we expose a couple of bricks with an edge and proceed to the back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, then make sure that it overlaps the furnace door, above which it will end. It was at this time that we installed a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame was directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out the wetted asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have a different coefficient of thermal expansion, the slab is not laid on clay. After that, you can go to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the door is kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the back. To make this kind of oven, there is no need for a tube that expands at the top, as this type of tube will change the center of gravity. There are various schemes of chimneys. They are: horizontal, direct, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget about inserting a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will dock with the metal. If the flue goes to the side, then it must be blocked with several brick rows;
• After that, we take out the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that has accumulated during the construction work;
• We whiten the oven. We protect the metal part of the furnace itself and its walls with a film. So that it does not turn yellow over time, milk and a small amount of blue should be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, paying special attention to the joints of bricks and the cast-iron surface;
• The gaps between the first row and the floor are carefully sealed. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not wake up;
• After edging the structure, we nail the plinth, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it flush and tight to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you make the first fire with wood chips and paper, for a few days we leave all the doors and burners in open position to dry everything well.

A small brick oven for a summer residence is made quite quickly and it will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will not let you make mistakes.