Brick wood burning stove. Overview of small and compact stoves for wood-fired cottages Brick stoves for a wood-burning house

Home heating is a paramount factor in comfortable human housing in the autumn-winter time. Despite other options for heating the house, there are no fewer people who want to make a brick hearth.

Skillful house owners lay a classic brick oven with their own hands easily, the masonry technology is described in articles and books. But with inaccurate execution of one detail, the operation of the hearth becomes uncomfortable. There is smoke in the room or there is a risk of fire. It is better to invite a professional stove-maker who will fold the stove according to the rules.

The standard design consists of parts:

• foundation or concrete base of the house;
• cases with technological details;
• chimney to remove combustion products.

Brick stoves for houses in the process of centuries of use have divided by way of operation. Among them are:

Heating hearths are built only to heat the home, they do not perform other functions. It is impossible to heat water or use such a brick structure for cooking. The design scheme is simplified, the service life is measured in decades, but the use is rare. IN last years, after the installation of water circuits, such centers of heating a brick house are not found.

Furnaces arranged in the house for culinary purposes. Sometimes slabs are built in open areas, verandas or summer kitchens. The design is selected so that heat is released only in the area of ​​​​the cooking surface. Brick hobs are installed only in rooms with organized heating or in places where heating is not required.

Due to the increased functionality, the heating and cooking model of a brick hearth is in demand among the owners. Chimneys in the design of the furnace take the heat of combustion to heat the room. The hostess prepares food on the hob. Sometimes an oven is arranged in a brick hearth for baking. Gate valves regulate the degree of heating, and in summer period The oven is used for cooking only. These dampers determine the degree of smoke output in the event of external pressure surges.

Barbecue and barbecue arranged in the summer on open natural areas in front of the house or under a canopy. Uncomplicated brickwork with a chimney in the form of a cap, the walls of the brazier simultaneously act as a support for the grate. The owners sometimes arrange a full-fledged kitchen in such a place, supply water and make sewers.

The stove building made of bricks for a bath is arranged as a heating array that produces dry steam. When laying, you can not neglect the little things, shortcomings and inaccuracies will lead to incomplete combustion of the fuel. Improperly fitted bricks pose a risk of releasing toxic, carbon monoxide, or carcinogenic gas.

Russian oven becomes the soul of the house. It is impossible to argue with this concept. In the oven department of the hearth, ancient dishes are prepared that cannot be cooked in a metal oven. In addition to heating the rooms adjacent to it and cooking on the stove, the Russian stove is equipped with a lounger for sleeping after the end of the firebox. In ancient times, colds and diseases of the supporting apparatus were treated on such a warm bed.

What does furnace breath mean?

Warming up, the walls emit wet vapors into the air space of the room, cooling down, they take it back. Speaking of a healthy climate in a house with a brick oven, this property is implied. Threshold of comfort in the house is reduced compared to other heating boilers to a temperature of 18ºС. Even with it, the relative humidity approaches the standard value and people feel comfortable, which cannot be said about other heating sources.

Heating with water heat carriers raises the comfortable temperature threshold to 20-22ºС, electric and gas heating make it even higher. A brick oven for a house with a heat transfer coefficient of 50% is more economical in terms of costs than metal hearths With useful work in 70%.

Requirements for the operation of a brick oven

• economical heat transfer and full thermal conductivity;
• operation for decades;
• standalone model;
• combination of two - three functions;
• warming up the room with the creation of a comfortable microclimate;
• simplified design;
• an attractive appearance that does not spoil the aesthetics of the room.

Unlike a metal model, a red brick hearth accumulates heat and releases it slowly. The duration of intensive heating of the house continues within 15-20 hours. Smoke is removed through chimneys made of ceramic bricks by natural draft. Air enters through the room where the stove is installed and ventilation is not neglected in it.

Heat transfer without residue is ensured by the complex structure of the smoke channels. To stop the draft after the end of the heating process, close the damper on the main pipe. Dry hardwood logs are considered suitable firewood. After combustion, ash is formed, which enters the receiving compartment for further cleaning.

So that the house is heated everywhere, hearth is built in the center of the dwelling, and the rooms are arranged in a cruciform manner. In each of them there is a part of the furnace rough for heating.

Difficulties in the operation of the furnace does not arise. In addition to exciting kindling, the mood of the owner is created by the smell of smoke escaping from the hearth or contemplation of the dancing flames on the wood.

Do not use household waste and residues of building materials for fuel. Finishing materials emit a lot of substances harmful to the body. Decomposition products during combustion of materials are released by heating and accumulate on the walls of the furnace and chimney, making periodic cleaning difficult.

The disadvantages of a brick hearth include:

• the constant need to clean the chimney pipe twice a year;
• manual refueling frequency.

Provisions for the device of the furnace

The device of the furnace according to the rules means following the principles of choosing a material, determining the design of the hearth. The construction of a furnace from materials with a lack of quality will lead to a premature violation of the integrity and the need to remake the brick furnace structure. The inexperienced owner of the stove-maker spends his evenings with a taste of smoke, or even lives in an unheated room.

The device of a heavy furnace with a number of bricks above 500 pieces or with a heavy red brick chimney is carried out on a separate foundation. The stove is placed on the base of the house if it is made in the form of a solid slab. A separate foundation of the hearth is built without connection with the strip foundation of housing.

The construction of only a non-heavy hob is allowed on the floor, with pre-reinforced joists. Reinforced thermal insulation and a heating shield are made under it. If the house is being built together with a stove, then the place is chosen according to the building scheme. In an already operating house, a new stove is oriented to the location of the central chimney. The device of the new chimney is made so that the beams are not sawn roof structure. The distance to the nearest wooden roof rafter is at least one meter.

Small foci put on a wooden floor, laying insulating layers. But the decision is made only in exceptional cases, since the furnace is built for decades, and wooden base fails before the brick hearth.

The stove chimney pipe rises above the roof surface by 50 cm and above. This distance increases as the chimney approaches the roof ridge.

How to choose materials

Quarry sand is used for laying furnaces, the use of river and sea sand is limited due to the hewn edges of grains of sand by water waves. And quarry sand consists of grains of sand with torn edges that adhere to the rest of the materials in the solution. Before use, the sand must be sieved and washed with water.

Furnace laying is carried out I'm made of ceramic red brick, silicate is not used due to hygroscopicity. For masonry combustion chamber and the chimney choose a brick of the highest grade of red color, without cracks and inclusions with a ringing sound when tapped.

The laying of secondary partitions inside the body of the furnace is carried out with a brick of the second grade of a faded pink color and a deaf echo. Burnt material Brown used for the construction of foundations, but the furnaces themselves are not built from it.

Stones are also used obtained from the demolition of buildings. The laying of the front surface is not carried out from specimens on which soot has adhered. After whitewashing, such a surface gives out black emerging stains during the year. It is undesirable to use bricks after laying on cement or lime mortar, even when cleaned.

The solution is prepared using clay, which acts as a binder. Clay is divided into lean, medium and fatty varieties. For oven masonry, average material values ​​\u200b\u200bare used to hold critical temperatures during operation.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

Clay, which acts as an astringent, is not used alone in the solution. The furnace is built on a clay composition with the addition of sand and cement. It does not crack or leak smoke when heated in the oven. Seams are made up to three millimeters thick, for such masonry thirty liters of mortar are consumed per hundred stones. For plasticity, one kilogram of cement and a glass of salt are added to a bucket of clay solution.

water gently mixed with clay and leave to soak for two weeks, periodically stirring the solution. Sand and cement are added after the expiration date. The amount of sand is determined by the fat content of the resulting solution. The skinny one will drain from the shovel and leave no trace, and the fat one will stick in a lump and will not budge. Achieve average performance. Finishing with plaster is done with a cement-sand mortar with the addition of lime.

Stores sell ready-made masonry mortars in the form of a dry composition for the installation of furnaces. In terms of characteristics, they are not inferior to self-prepared ones, they organically balance components and additives. If there is no time for the complex preparation of a clay solution, advanced dry mortars are used.

Furnace foundation

By design, it is built as a monolithic solid, tape, prefabricated reinforced concrete or made of brick. Width exceeds oven base on the sides by 5-7 cm. The constructed base is isolated with two layers of roofing material or coated with two layers bituminous mastic. Asbestos is laid on top, then a metal sheet, completed with a layer of cardboard or construction felt impregnated with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

After that, they begin to build the furnace, aligning each brick according to the scheme developed in advance.

Using a wood-burning brick oven to heat a private house backed by many benefits. The owners of such devices felt comfort and coziness in houses with stoves. Cost savings and an environmentally friendly atmosphere play a significant role. These ovens are the future.

Residents of private houses do not always connect gas heating. Therefore, an alternative is to install a brick oven for wood-fired cottages. Some homeowners install the equipment as additional heating equipment. There are several types of brick ovens for heating different rooms and areas.

The Russian stove will not only heat the house, you can use it to cook a delicious dinner and bake a loaf Source zen.yandex.ru

Advantages of furnace heating

Wood burning stoves heat up quickly and distribute the heat for a long time. Radiant energy is released from the brick, which is good for health. In the house where the stove is installed, it is always comfortable and warm. Due to the draft in the room, natural ventilation is created. The structures are often arranged hob on which you can cook food. In addition, on such an oven you can dry things, shoes and products.

A combination oven is a device that has several functions. This includes a fireplace stove, a heating and cooking stove and a Russian stove.

The only significant drawback is the poor heating of remote rooms. That is why they try to install the entire structure in the center of the house for uniform heat transfer. IN big houses it is advisable to install several stoves that have a combined chimney. The hob is usually installed in the location of the kitchen.

Heating equipment is different appearance and designs.

Typically, the stove is installed between several adjacent rooms so that they all warm up evenly Source pechnoy.guru

Overview of brick ovens

Furnace designs have evolved independently in different countries. Accordingly, they received names - either according to the principle of action, or from the name of the country in which they were developed:

dutch oven

The design is one of the most popular. Some models are equipped with a hob and an oven, which solves the problem of cooking, but the classic "Dutch" is used only for heating.

The channel-type firebox heats the walls perfectly. The smoke is removed through a vertical channel, in which almost all of it burns out. Although usually brick stoves for a wood-fired house are large, this cannot be said about the Dutch woman, so it is optimally suited for comfortable heating of a private house - one or two floors. Outwardly, the Dutchwoman resembles a column. The shape of the structure can be round, square or rectangular.

Dutch benefits:

After long breaks, you can start firing the furnace at full power.

Design small size can heat a house of 70 sq. m.

Profitability. Little material consumption. The installation cost is lower, as well as saving space.

The design has thin walls, so it warms up quickly.

Classic "Dutch women" take up less space, but they are used only for heating the house Source ar.decoratex.biz

Flaws:

The efficiency is no more than 40%.

You should not forget about cleaning the stove from ash, as well as soot for normal traction.

The most effective mode is smoldering. Often this design is called a furnace. long burning.

After the firebox, you need to close the view, otherwise the stove will cool down quickly.

Such equipment can heat small houses which have 2 floors or an attic floor.

Russian oven

It is large and multifunctional, and also has smoke channels and an open firebox. It is sometimes closed with a damper. The equipment may have a cooking surface.

In addition to heating the room, this design allows you to cook food and dry clothes.

The efficiency factor is maximum 60%. IN winter period the stove must not be allowed to cool, so it should be heated regularly. If the structure cools down, condensation may occur. The brick is saturated with moisture, and upon subsequent cooling, it freezes and cracks.

In summer, you can use the oven in summer mode to cook food. In this case, the smoke is directed directly into the pipe using a damper, and the body of the structure does not heat up.

Modern Russian stove with stove bench in wooden house Source yandex.ru

Advantages:

With a timely firebox, a comfortable microclimate and temperature are created in the house.

Multifunctional design.

A brick oven for a summer residence decorates the room.

Flaws:

The high cost of installation due to the large volume of bricks.

Due to the large weight and size, it is necessary to build a solid foundation.

Little efficiency.

Ducts and chimneys need to be cleaned regularly.

Such equipment is suitable for year-round use.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing fireplaces and stoves. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

swedish oven

The furnace has a universal design and is designed primarily for efficient operation in small areas. The standard "Swede" is equipped with an oven, a hob, as well as niches for drying things. Some Swedes have a stove bench and a fireplace.

The principle of operation of the Swedish furnace is approximately the same as that of the bell-type furnace - afterburning of flue gases occurs under the arch of the furnace.

Design advantages:

The room heats up very quickly.

The possibility of cooking, both on the hob and in the oven.

Almost complete combustion of fuel.

Due to the design of the channels, the lower part of the equipment warms up, and, consequently, the floors are slightly heated.

A heat exchanger can be installed in the design for heating water.

The Swedish brick oven has its own characteristics, but it does a good job of warming up the house. Source mauro-gianvanni.ru

To prevent heat loss through the floor, it is necessary to arrange high-quality thermal insulation.

For the installation of heated elements, fireclay bricks are used, which have a higher cost.

Bell-type furnace

One of the modern designs is such a furnace. The equipment heats up perfectly and retains heat for a long time. The design does not have small tortuous channels, therefore, they are not so prone to soot settling.

The principle of operation of the bell-type furnace: smoke goes up from the furnace, then remains there until it cools. And then it begins to descend along the walls of the chimney, thus heating it. Such designs are effective, as they can have several caps.

Advantages:

Low material and installation cost. Simplicity of design.

You can install a heat exchanger and a hob.

Heats up quickly even after it has completely cooled down.

The gas view prevents reverse thrust. That is why when the damper is open, the oven cannot cool down.

In modern hand-masonry stoves, it is possible to heat several rooms in the house at once. Source mauro-gianvanni.ru

Such a stove can have several caps, and, therefore, it will be possible to heat 2 floors and several rooms. It is difficult to single out any flaws in it, which is why the bell-shaped model is popular with homeowners.

Video description

An example of laying a bell-type furnace, see the video:

Where to install a wood-burning brick oven in the house

You can install the oven anywhere, but for efficient heating it is recommended to place it in the center of the house. Experts do not recommend installing equipment near the outer wall of the house, in order to avoid heat loss to the street. When constructing the structure, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sides of the foundation, the location of the pipe and the height of the furnace.

Is it possible to build long-burning brick ovens

Every homeowner wants to install heating that does not require a lot of labor. It is quite problematic to arrange this in a brick oven for a long-burning wood-burning house. In industrial furnaces made of metal, which work according to this principle, carbon monoxide. Long burning mode can be arranged in a Russian or Dutch oven. But this method is not 100% effective. Therefore, it is recommended to install a standard brick oven that retains heat for a long time.

Video description

See the following video for some thoughts on long-burning stoves:

Basic masonry techniques

In the manufacture of heat-resistant and refractory materials for the furnace, as well as hardened bricks. It is not recommended to make the oven device yourself. It is necessary to contact specialists for high-quality and safe masonry.

Specialists carry out work in compliance with all safety standards and rules. For laying bricks, a cement mortar is used, which is diluted with sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

For a binding material, many craftsmen use clay with sand.

Each row of bricks is laid out in a certain way, forming a furnace of a given project. Source pechki.net.ru

What you need to purchase for the construction of the stove

First you need to purchase a masonry mortar and bricks. The amount of material will be calculated by a specialist. Do not forget about the construction of a separate foundation for installing the furnace. For the equipment, you will need cast-iron elements: a door for the firebox, a blower (ash pan door), burner rings, a chimney damper, a grate and a hob.

In addition, it is necessary to purchase steel elements: a hot water tank and an oven. During the construction of the structure, strips made of metal of different widths and lengths will be needed. Metal corner standard size 0.5 x 0.5 cm. Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 cm. A sheet of steel must be placed in front of the firebox.

In some designs, roofing iron may be needed to cover the cooking chamber.

The required amount of material is calculated by the specialist based on the size and type of furnace.

Brick stoves for a house on long-burning wood are built from fireclay and red bricks, clay and sand. For the construction of the foundation, you will need sand and cement, crushed stone, roofing material, as well as formwork boards.

Doors and grates (grids) are mounted along the laying of the main structure Source extracraft.ru

Brick pyrolysis oven

Such heating equipment can be classified as long burning. Solid fuel burns without oxygen. With the help of wood, volatile gases are saturated, and then they are burned out at temperature regime more than 450 ° C, while they are mixed with the remaining air in the 2nd chamber.

This design has a high efficiency, which can reach up to 95%.

You can install equipment in the country, in the garage or country house small area. The pyrolysis oven consumes little fuel at maximum operation. All solid material burns almost completely. Soot practically does not settle, as coal and gas are burned.

All pyrolysis models work according to this principle, but different designs differ in characteristics and appearance.

A pyrolysis oven may not differ much from classic brick ovens. Source stop-othod.ru

How does a wood-burning brick oven work?

Brick ovens collect heat and gradually distribute heat throughout the room. The house of a small area is heated from 15 to 24 hours. Smoke escapes through the chimney thanks to natural draft. The room in which the heating equipment is installed should be regularly ventilated. The damper on the main pipe closes to stop the draft.

The use of dry firewood will be optimal for the firebox. In the receiving compartment it is necessary to clean the ash. When using the equipment, there are usually no problems.

Brick structures have some disadvantages:

Chimney cleaning about 2 times a year;

It is necessary to throw firewood manually;

It is necessary to carry out the construction of the furnace only from quality materials that meet all standards. Otherwise, the equipment may not heat the room well or the house will smell of smoke.

If the oven is built from 450 bricks or more, then it is necessary to arrange a foundation. Heating equipment can be installed on the basis of the house if it is made in the form of a whole slab. A separate foundation is arranged without being tied to the base.

Basically, the foundation for a brick oven is done according to the standard scheme. Source nastroike.com

According to the plan of the house, a place is chosen for the installation of the heating structure during the construction of the house. In an already operated house, the location of the equipment is designed so that the chimney is located between the floor beams. It should be at a distance of 1 meter from the rafters.

The chimney must be at least 0.5 m higher than the roof. The closer the pipe is to the ridge, the higher it must be.

Video description

A little about the secrets of using a brick oven in the house in the following video:

The cost of a brick oven on wood

The cost of fireclay bricks starts from 58 rubles. Red brick has a cost of about 20 rubles. Laying one brick will cost 85 rubles. The cost of the foundation, depending on the height of the basement, will be approximately 20 thousand rubles. In addition, it is necessary to pay separately for the installation of doors, gratings, valves, etc.

Conclusion

A well-chosen and built stove will not only warm your home, but will also become a noticeable piece of furniture. In order for all installation work to go smoothly, and the oven itself to last for a long time, contact professionals who will not only do their job quickly and efficiently, but also give a guarantee on it.

In some situations, brick stoves for a wood-burning house are a necessity, as they may be the only way to heat a residential building due to the lack of gas supply and in order to save electricity. However, very often stoves are installed additionally, as they can not only save the family budget from unnecessary expenses, but also bring comfort to the house, providing it with special healing warmth.

Despite the emergence of various modern species heating, brick ovens remain in demand today. This encourages both engineers and craftsmen not to stop working on new designs, due to which more and more perfect, functional and heat-intensive heating structures appear.

There are a lot of models of brick ovens, and it will not be difficult to choose the right one from them. But at the same time, it is necessary to take into account several important conditions that are essential for the efficient and safe operation of this home assistant - a real stove.

Variety of oven designs

Brick ovens according to their functionality can be divided into three main categories: cooking, heating and cooking and heating structures, for example,. In addition to them, there are also multifunctional options, including a fireplace, a water heater and even a water circuit - for heating an area larger than the building itself can heat. Therefore, if a decision is made to install a brick oven in the house, first of all, you need to decide on the choice of model.

• The cooking version of the stove is usually chosen for installation in country conditions, in the event that the owners live there only in summer season. Sometimes such a stove is also installed in a private house in addition to gas or electric heating- in order to save more expensive fuel compared to firewood. A cooking oven is usually equipped with a hob, an oven, and sometimes a hot water tank. It usually has a fairly compact size, but still able to heat the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself will not take up much space.

The heating and cooking stove is a whole multifunctional complex

• A heating and cooking stove is a complex that can include several functions necessary for everyday use - this includes a hob, an oven, a tank for heating water, niches for drying plant products, a stove bench, a fireplace, and sometimes a water circuit. Such a design will help out in any situation, so it is most often installed in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, often they are not in a hurry to refuse such furnaces even if there is a gas heating boiler in the house.

• The heating stove is intended only for heating the house or sauna rooms. The design does not have a hob and oven, but a hot water tank can be built in and a fireplace function can be present. Such an oven is capable of heating two or even three small rooms, with its proper embedding in the walls between the rooms.

In addition to the functional purpose, it is necessary to determine the shape and size of the furnace. This criterion will depend on the layout of the house and the area that can be allocated for its installation. You also need to take into account the heat capacity of the structure, that is, the indicator on which it depends what area the selected stove can heat.

So, large-sized stoves with thick walls are able to distribute heat over a large area, but the duration of their furnace to achieve heating is about 1.5 ÷ 2 hours. Compact, small-sized stoves heat up and give off heat much faster, approximately within 35–40 minutes. Moreover, in order to heat them, a smaller amount of fuel is required, which means that they are more economical. Therefore, when choosing a model, it is imperative to find out its power characteristics and what area they are designed for.

You might be interested in knowing what is

Choosing a place to install a brick oven

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location would be to build it into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, one heating structure can be dispensed with if the heat-releasing surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they go.

The place chosen for the construction must be well measured and take into account some points:

• The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick oven must fit well into the space in its height.
• The foundation for the furnace must be 110 ÷ 120 mm larger than its base, and for it it is also necessary to provide for a suitable area.
• The chimney pipe, when laid up, should not stumble on the floor beams and on rafter legs roof structure.

Basic materials and components for laying a brick oven

In addition to brick and masonry mortar, other materials and elements will be required for the construction of the furnace. Their nomenclature, quantity and size will depend on the chosen model of the heating structure.

So, the following cast-iron components may be required for a brick oven:

1 - ash pan door (blew);

2 - furnace door;

3 - doors for installation on treatment channels;

4 - valve of the chimney channel;

5 - burner rings installed on the holes of the hob;

6 - cooking stove;

7 - grate.

In addition to cast iron, you will need to prepare some steel parts or assemblies that are included in the design of the furnace. It could be:

1. Oven.
2. Water tank.
3. Metal strips of different lengths and widths.
4. A metal corner, most often measuring 50 × 50 mm.
5. Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm.
6. Steel sheet for flooring in front of the firebox.
7. Roofing iron - sometimes required to cover the cooking chamber.

For the masonry itself, materials will be required that are selected in accordance with the masonry scheme and the list (table) usually attached to it:

1. Red brick.
2. Chamotte brick.
3. Clay mortar components - sand and clay, or ready-made heat-resistant, sold in specialized stores.
4. Foundation materials - they can be different: crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, rubble stone, formwork boards, roofing material for waterproofing.
5. Asbestos sheet and cord.

Marking and arrangement of the foundation

It is impossible to start laying the furnace if a reliable foundation has not been created for this structure, since the structure will turn out to be very massive.

• First, there is a marking of the place where the foundation for the furnace will be installed - the foundation. In this case, it must be taken into account that the chimney pipe when passing through attic floor must pass at a distance of at least 120÷150 mm from the wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floor boards will be cut out for the foundation, a plumb line is used, which is fixed to the ceiling, at the right distance from the floor beam. After the plumb line stops, a mark is made on the floor, one of the corners of the furnace. Also, dots mark the rest of its corner parts, and then the resulting plan is verified by the building level and corner. Next, you should draw on the floor the shape of the future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than the stove base by at least 100 - 150 mm in each direction). According to the markings received, the floor boards will be cut out - so as to reach the ground.

Here it should be noted right away that the foundation of the furnace and the house should not be common. Moreover, they should not be connected. The shrinkage of the bases of the furnace and the house itself are different, and it may turn out that with a connected foundation, one building will pull the other along with it.

• Further, the floor boards are sawn and dismantled, and a foundation pit is dug in the exposed soil with a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the earth.
• The foundation can be equipped with rubble stone or brick. If the base will be equipped with rubble stone, then the installation of formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay the stone cleaned of dirt in layers, each of which is poured with concrete mortar. It is very important to ensure that there are no unfilled voids between the masonry stones.

• Masonry above the ground continues in the formwork, made in the form of a box, the boards of which must be tightly fitted to each other. In order for the solution to dry out evenly, and the liquid is not absorbed into the wood of the formwork, it is recommended to close it from the inside with dense polyethylene, which is fixed with staples on the boards.
• The foundation must be 140 mm below the finished floor.
• The surface of the rubble-cement base is leveled for the next stage of work.
• Further, two rows of brickwork are mounted on a flat and dried surface, and after the mortar dries, a roofing material is laid on it in two layers, which acts as a waterproofing.

The variant with continuous pouring of the foundation slab in the formwork, with the installation of a steel reinforcing structure, is also quite possible. True, cost concrete mortar in this case it will be much higher.

Preparing bricks for masonry work

As you know, the main material for laying the furnace is red brick of normal firing. Well, laying out the walls and bottom of the furnace is carried out from refractory fireclay material. You can, of course, use selected red brick for the combustion chamber, but you need to take into account that its service life is much lower than refractory.

First of all, the purchased brick must be carefully sorted out and rejected the one that has significant cracks and chips. If used brick will be used for masonry, then it must be cleaned of soot and old mortar.

The prepared red brick is soaked in water for at least 12-14 hours. Fireclay should only be rinsed with water before use in order to remove dust.

The preparation process also includes splitting the brick into pieces, since when laying the furnace, not only whole bricks, but also halves, ¾ - three-quarters, ¼ - quarters, and even sometimes smaller fragments are needed. To make it easier to determine the parts of the brick by size, on the handle of the pickaxe hammer, notches are measured and made corresponding to the size of the half, ¼ or ¾ of its part.

To obtain the fragmentary details necessary for masonry, the brick is split or hewn. Stitching is done if it is necessary to have a brick cut at an angle.

For Tesca, bricks that do not have cracks are taken. To do everything right, you need to take the brick with your left hand and, holding it in the air, mark the area to be hewn on its edges with a pick.

The marking is applied at an angle, along the marked line. Then the corners are broken off by blows on the sides of the brick. The hewn surfaces will turn out to be rough, and in order to bring them to an even, smooth state, they are rubbed with a brick.

To split a brick into even parts (this process is called a joke by stove-makers), you need to take a high-quality brick without cracks. The process of pinning is also carried out on weight.

If a brick needs to be divided in half, it is also taken in the left hand, and the part to be separated is measured on it. Then, along the spoon side of the brick, a shallow groove breaks through the marked line. After that, the brick is turned over with a groove down, and a sharp blow is applied to it with a hammer striker in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe intended line.

Brick splitting techniques - 2

If, however, it is necessary to separate a smaller than half part from a solid brick, then a groove is made in the place of the future split on all sides of the brick. It splits in this case, with a strong blow to the furrow on one of the sides of the spoon. If necessary, you can also chip off the corner part in the same way.

If you need to split a brick not across, but along, then the marking is carried out along its lateral, narrow side, and the groove along the marking is made deeper, since it splits along it much more difficult and can crumble.

If you need to round the corners of the brick, you will need a special tool - it can be a machine or a grinder with a circle on the stone.

Preparation of masonry mortar

A very important stage of work can be called the preparation of a clay solution, which is used when laying the main body of the furnace. You also need to know that clay mortar is not suitable for building a chimney or arranging a foundation. For this purpose, concrete mixes are often used, or several parts of cement are added to the clay mortar.

The masonry oven joint should not exceed 8 mm in thickness, otherwise cracks will appear on it, and oxygen can penetrate through them into the structure, which will reduce the efficiency of the furnace. In addition, during the furnace, carbon monoxide can seep into the room, which is extremely dangerous for human health and even human life. Therefore, the solution must be prepared from high-quality clay and sifted fine sand with a fraction of grains of sand not more than 1 mm. The solution should be homogeneous, without lumps and foreign inclusions.

Clay solutions are divided into lean, normal and fatty. This quality directly depends on the right clay.

• Lean solutions are not plastic, fragile and crumble strongly.
• Normal mixtures have the correct proportions and consist of medium-fat clay and sifted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically do not crack after complete drying, do not shrink strongly and do not change their volume. Therefore, they will be the most suitable option for oven masonry.
• Fatty solutions are plastic, but tend to crack when dried. But this composition of the mixture can be corrected by “thinning” it by adding sand.

The correct density of the clay solution is no less important than plasticity. Therefore, the consistency of the masonry mixture should resemble a dough of medium density, and when compressed between two wet bricks, it should be easily squeezed out under their weight.

Before mixing the solution, it is imperative to check the quality of the clay. The process of checking the finished solution can be carried out in three ways, but first it must be made using the method of selecting ingredients - clay and sand in proportions.

Usually several versions of the solution are prepared in small quantities. In each of the solutions, different proportions are provided:

• Pure clay without added sand.
• Clay 90%, sand 10%.
• Clay 75%, sand 25%.
• Clay 25%, sand 75%.

The solutions are well mixed with the addition of water to the consistency of a thick dough that does not stick to the hands. Then you can move on to testing it.

A. From each version of the solution, balls with a diameter of 35 ÷ 40 mm and plates with a thickness of 15 ÷ 25 mm are made. All these products are left to dry at room temperature for 7-9 days.

After this time, you need to check. Those products that gave fewer cracks, and the balls thrown from a height of 1000 mm onto the floor did not fall apart, have the right proportions for oven masonry.

You can squeeze the solution, rolled into balls, between two wooden plates to a thickness of 7 mm and leave to dry at room temperature. The solution that will give the least cracks is selected.

B. Another test option that does not require a long wait is the burst test. To do this, flagella 10 ÷ 15 mm thick and 120 ÷ 170 mm long are made from solutions with different proportions. Then the flagella try to stretch. That mixture is suitable, the tourniquet from which will break, stretching at the point of rupture to a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm.

IN. The third option could be rolling ready solutions into a tourniquet and folding it around a round wooden stick with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The solution from which the tourniquet is made, which cracked less when dried and remained intact at the same time, is perfect for masonry work.

Having chosen the optimal solution in proportions, it must be properly kneaded.

• The clay is soaked for one to two days, and then, when wet, is rubbed through a sieve made of metal mesh with cells of 3÷3.5 mm.
• The sand is sifted.
• Further, the required amount of clay and sand is measured, according to the proportions identified experimentally, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth.

Properly made solution does not lose its adhesive qualities indefinitely. If it dries out, just add liquid to it and mix well again.

For laying fireclay bricks, a special mortar is prepared, consisting of pure clay and fireclay sand in proportions of 1: 1.

Price for masonry mix for stoves

masonry mix for stoves

General recommendations for laying a brick oven

After the foundation has gained the necessary strength, and the bricks, mortar, metal and cast iron parts have been prepared, you can proceed to the marking of the first row and the masonry itself.

• Marking the first row.

On a waterproofing sheet (roofing material), laid on a foundation with an indent from its edge, bricks of the first row are laid dry around the perimeter. First, corner bricks are installed, then intermediate ones along the perimeter, a gap of 5 ÷ 6 mm is necessarily left between them, which will be filled with mortar during the control masonry. Angles are measured according to the building level and corner. To make sure that the row is laid out evenly, use a tape measure to measure its diagonals - they should have the same length.

The geometry of the first row is extremely important for the entire kiln structure, so the measurements must be carried out as accurately as possible. In order not to go astray, performing a control masonry, a dry row should be outlined with chalk.

• Checking the horizontal row.

Next, the row is laid out on the solution. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the first, corner brick, and a thicker layer to the second. Then, a building level is installed on the two laid bricks, which is pressed on the second brick, thereby achieving their alignment in a perfectly horizontal plane. In the same way, 3 and 4 bricks are laid out and so on according to the scheme.

• Execution of masonry.

In order for the masonry to turn out to be even at the corners of the furnace, vertical cords-plumb lines are pulled from the outer sides, which are attached to the ceiling and floor. If the furnace is being built by the master for the first time, instead of cords, it is best to install formwork bars from ceiling to floor. They are set at the building level and securely fixed in a verified position.

At this stage, using a trowel or spatula, a solution is applied to the first lined row with a layer of 9 ÷ 10 mm.

A corner brick is laid on top of it. Then a solution is applied to the end side of the second brick and also leveled. The second brick is laid on the place prepared for it, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a hammer. The mortar that has come out between the rows is selected with a trowel. At the same time, it is advisable to carefully clean the bricks immediately so that the mortar does not have time to set.

If you are not sure that the seams will turn out the same, you can use plastic or wooden slats-calibrators having a thickness equal to the required seam thickness. Such calibration devices are placed on the finished row, before mounting the next one. Such rails need to be prepared so that they are enough for three rows. Having laid out these rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam and shifted to the topmost one - and so on to the very top of the structure being erected.

If the walls of the furnace will not be applied finishing material, then the seams are carefully processed with a special tool called "sewing".

Processing of seams "under jointing"

It is very important to take into account that the next row of oven masonry should begin only after the previous one is completely finished. No ladders are allowed.

The horizontality of each row is necessarily controlled by the building level.

So that the heated air, circulating through the internal channels, does not encounter obstacles in the form of a protruding solution, and smoothly slides along the walls from the combustion chamber to the chimney, a solution with internal walls ok, I need to delete it too. This process can be carried out with a brush made of bast, with which the unset solution is rubbed, if necessary, moistening it with water. Such grouting is carried out at the completion of the masonry every 4-5 rows or, if necessary, the installation of a vertical ceiling that will close the cavity of the furnace.

If the external finishing of the furnace is planned, then a plaster mortar is used for this, consisting of clay, lime and sand in proportions of 1: 1: 3. For heat resistance, 0.2 ÷ 0.3 parts of crushed asbestos are added to this composition. True, the existing modern sanitary standards do not welcome the use of asbestos in residential premises.

• Cover device.

There are a lot of different floors in the design of any furnace, and they all have their own characteristics, depending on the site of their arrangement.

So, when closing the door of the fuel chamber and the internal openings of the furnace, it is desirable to do this without metal parts.

If a model is selected that has an arched ceiling of the cooking chamber, then the arch is displayed along a special formwork that has a semicircular shape. Such formwork is called "circling".

The laying of the arched vaults is carried out with the obligatory dressing of the seams, and this suggests that the rows in the vault are always an odd number. At the bottom of the vault, the seams should be perfectly straight and no more than 5 mm thick.

The vault is laid out from the bottom to the top of the arch, first on one side it circled, then on the second, and only after that the central final castle row is laid out.

• Installation of furnace iron and metal elements.

All metal elements of the furnace, as you know, expand when heated, so thermal gaps must be formed around them, which are created using asbestos material. In some cases, an asbestos cord is used, in others, strips of the desired width and length are cut from a single sheet of this material. So, the door of the combustion chamber and the oven are wrapped with asbestos cord, and strips are laid under the hob.

The fastening of metal doors in the seams of the masonry occurs with the help of wire twists. On the back wall of the metal frame of the door there are always special “ears” into which the wire is inserted, and then its ends are twisted together.

The wire fixed on the lower "ears" is embedded in the seams of the row on which the door is installed, and the upper twists are between the rows, one of which will be located flush with the upper part of the door frame, and the second above it.

Before fixing in the seams, the door is set according to the building level or using a plumb line.

The blower and cleaning door does not require winding with asbestos cord, as they do not heat up to very high temperatures. The gaps between them and the brick can be sealed with clay mortar.

If to cover furnace door a metal strip must be used, then between it and the frame it is imperative to make a gasket from an asbestos strip.

The frame of the smoke damper is also mounted on a clay mortar, but this work must be carried out carefully so that the mortar does not fall into the grooves of the frame, along which the damper must go.

Drying the finished oven

Upon completion of the construction of the furnace, it is impossible to heat it immediately at full capacity, otherwise all work will be spoiled. Therefore, it is first necessary to dry it, which is carried out in the following order:

• All doors and valves open in the oven, and in this state it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the ambient temperature. Excess moisture from the mortar and the bricks themselves in this case will evaporate naturally.

Forced drying is undesirable, but it has to be used if, say, the temperature outside is not high enough for the mortar to dry properly. To do this, an ordinary electric light bulb of 200 ÷ 300 W is placed inside the combustion chamber and left in a burning state for the entire drying period, which will last from 6 to 10 days.

• After this time, the stove begins to be heated with a small amount of wood chips or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and adding 0.2 kg to this amount daily. This process takes approximately 10 days. Well, after that, you can already proceed to a full-fledged firebox of a well-dried design.

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Heating and cooking stove "Swede" with a bench

General characteristics and required materials

In this subsection of the publication, the order of laying a heating and cooking stove equipped with a stove bench will be presented. This model of the fundamental type "Swede" was developed by engineer G. Reznik. The design of such a furnace can be called one of the most popular, as it is distinguished by a simple configuration of internal channels, relatively small dimensions and its high functionality. In addition, the "Swede", which has a compact size, has a higher efficiency compared to the Russian stove, which occupies a fairly large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.

Heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type, with a warm bench, developed by G. Reznik

The "Swede" of this design is convenient in all its parameters. So, if you install it in the wall between two rooms, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom, then a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated wall will warm the living space, and the warm one may well serve as a sleeping place. The kitchen, on the other hand, will acquire a convenient hob and drying chambers suitable for various needs, for example, for harvesting dried vegetables, fruits, and medicinal herbs. Moreover, drying will take place in natural conditions, at temperatures that are optimal for this purpose.

The dimensions of the furnace, taking into account its functional qualities, are quite compact, and at the base are 765 × 1145 mm (3 × 4.5 bricks). The dimensions of the couch are 635 × 1785 mm (2.5 × 7 bricks). The total height of the structure, excluding the tube, is 1890 mm, so it is suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings. With these parameters, the heat transfer from the structure is 3500 W, and the stove is able to heat rooms with a total area of ​​​​up to 35 square meters.

The design provides for two operating modes - this is "winter", when all sections of the furnace are heated, and "summer", which allows using only the hob and chamber.

The fuel chamber has a fireclay brick lining, which increases the reliability and durability of the structure.

The following materials and metal parts are required for masonry:

Name of material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Quantity in pieces (kg)
Hardened Red Brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Chamotte fire-resistant brick	Sh-8	139 pcs.
Clay	oily	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
hob	310 x 650	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415	1 PC.
Furnace door	210 x 250	1 PC.
cleaning door	70 x 130	5 pieces.
Blower door	140 x 250	1 PC.
Smoke damper	130 x 250	1 PC.
Gate valve "summer course"	130 x 250	1 PC.
steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375	1 PC.
Pre-furnace sheet	500 x 700	1 PC.

In addition, it is necessary to stock up on an asbestos sheet and a cord made of the same material - to create thermal gaps between metal elements and bricks. You will also need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2 ÷ 3 mm - for fastening cast iron and steel structural parts.

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The process of laying the "Swede" oven with a stove bench

To begin with, a few illustrations that will help you better understand the intricacies of the furnace design:

You can move on to practical masonry. The table similarly describes each laid out row, indicating its nuances:

Order diagram illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be laid out perfectly horizontally, respecting the straight outer and internal corners masonry.
	The second row - 73 bricks. The row is also solid, but smaller than the previous one by 50 mm on each side. In places where the blower and cleaning door will be installed, cutouts are made along the edge of the brick, 20 mm deep, like a niche. They are needed for the convenience of subsequent installation of cast iron elements (shown by an arrow).
	Further, on the same row, the cleaning doors 130 × 70 mm and the blower 140 × 250 mm are installed. Instead of cleaning doors, some stove-makers install halves of bricks that are laid without mortar.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ fireclay bricks. This row is also smaller than the previous one along the perimeter, but this time, when carrying out work, you need to focus on the dimensions indicated in the order. On this row, a horizontal channel of the stove itself and a stove bench is formed, as well as a blower (ash) chamber. In the central part of the oven, another chamber is formed, which will not be used, it is needed for longer heat retention. The brick on the left side of the blower chamber is cut obliquely from above (shown by an arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ fireclay bricks. Bricks installed on the left side of the blower chamber are cut obliquely (shown by a yellow arrow). The ash door is overlaid on top with two steel strips measuring 50x5x360 mm (shown with a green arrow).
	Fifth row - 30 red and 16½ fireclay bricks. Cutouts are made in the bricks above the ash chamber (shown by arrows) - a seat for a grate measuring 240 × 415 mm.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central chamber is laid across with four steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 250 mm (shown by a yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this chamber can be filled with sand, stones, but it can also be left hollow. The cast-iron grate is put in place (shown with a green arrow).
	Sixth row. This row will require 32 ½ red and 18 fireclay bricks. The horizontal channel will become the base for the vertical chimney. The space under the bed is divided into 7 parts. The walls of the furnace fuel chamber are formed around the grate.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 fireclay bricks. The vertical chimney is reduced to 190 × 130 mm by laying it with bricks. At the same stage, the combustion chamber door 210 × 250 mm is installed (shown by the arrow).
	Eighth row. Laid out in accordance with the scheme of 38 red and 12 fireclay bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ fireclay bricks. On this row, a channel is formed between the fuel chamber and the space under the bed, which is connected to the chimney passages of the bed. The brick, which will be installed between the combustion chamber and the vertical chimney, is cut off from both sides in the upper part at an angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, a passage begins to form between the firebox and the rest of the chimney channels of the furnace. Here it is necessary to take into account that the upper part of the furnace door and the top of the brick cut from both sides must be on the same level. If the door is installed one row higher, the combustion products would have the opportunity to freely exit into the room when the door of the heating furnace is opened.
	The tenth row is laid out from 36 red and 8 fireclay bricks. At this stage of work, the combustion chamber is connected to a vertical channel. Red and fireclay bricks, located on both sides above the firebox door, are cut from above obliquely from above (shown by a yellow arrow), since a brick will be laid between them according to the lock principle, cut from below on both sides, also at an angle. Further, the resulting horizontal channel is divided into two parts - a small right and a large left. Part of the bricks that form the channel and are located on its left side are cut off obliquely in the upper part (shown with a green arrow).
	On the same row, a red brick and ½ fireclay brick (shown by arrows) cut into the remaining lock connector above the firebox door.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the space under the stove bench is covered with bricks. Its size increases by moving the outermost bricks outward by 30 mm, its exact parameters are shown in the ordering diagram. The removal of the walls of the furnace continues, the bricks in it and the chimney channels are cut obliquely - on the furnace from above, on the channels from below (shown respectively by yellow and green arrows).
	The 12th row is laid out from 49½ red and 16 fireclay bricks. On this row, the couch overlaps again, also with its increase in size - the extreme bricks are shifted outward by 30 mm. Three vertical chimney channels are formed along the rear wall of the furnace. The middle and left channels are connected from below by a common space, and the right channel is combined with the bed outlet channel. The bricks that form the right and middle channels are cut obliquely from below (shown by yellow arrows). A groove is cut in the bricks framing the combustion chamber - a seat for mounting hob(green arrows). Moreover, the dimensions of each side of the seat should be 5 mm larger than the plate itself.
	On the same row, a hob 310 × 650 mm is mounted (shown by an arrow).
	The 13th row consists of 49 red and 7 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The stove bench is covered with a third layer of bricks, and its dimensions return to the original ones. To do this, the bricks of this row are shifted inward. On the diagram, you can clearly see the emerging vertical channels - the main one, located on the left side of the hob and three along the back wall.
	The 14th row is laid out from 16 red and 4 fireclay bricks. Only the stove is being erected from this row, since the laying of the stove bench is already completely finished. Two halves of bricks are laid in the back wall of the furnace, which should protrude 25 mm beyond the masonry (shown by arrows). They are needed so that they can be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 fireclay bricks. When it is laid out, the same brick halves are installed above the lower halves of bricks (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the scheme, and consists of 15 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 17th row is also displayed according to the presented scheme, from 14½ red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ fireclay bricks. A passage is made in the left wall of the cooking chamber (shown by an arrow), where the ventilation door of the cooking chamber will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Further, on the same row, a 70 × 130 mm door is installed in the left ventilation passage (shown by a yellow arrow). Then, a steel strip 50 × 5 × 735 mm (green arrow) is laid on the walls of the cooking chamber to cover it, and a corner 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow) is placed on their edge.
	19th row, consists of 16 ½ red and 3 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the front part of the cooking chamber is covered with bricks. The brick is laid on a steel strip and a corner.
	Further, on the same row, the cooking chamber is completely covered with a sheet of roofing iron 360 × 375 mm (shown by a yellow arrow), on top of which five steel strips 50 × 5 × 360 mm are laid (green arrows). The metal sheet gives the ceiling of the cooking chamber a cultivated appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 fireclay bricks. They completely cover the cooking chamber, and on the main chimney channel a seat is cut out in the bricks (shown by an arrow) for mounting the “summer” stroke valve.
	Further, on the same row, the valve itself 130 × 250 mm is installed on the seat (shown by an arrow).
	21st row, its masonry involves the use of 21 red and 5 fireclay bricks. A row is laid out according to the scheme. Bricks framing the left vertical duct from the side of the main chimney duct in the upper part are cut obliquely (shown by a yellow arrow). The brick laid between the middle and right vertical channels is cut obliquely on both sides (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this series, the left and main, as well as the middle and right channels are combined. Two drying chambers are being formed. In the back wall of the large drying chamber and the back wall of the combined main and left channels, half bricks are installed, which can be removed if it is necessary to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd row consists of 16½ red bricks. To cover the area of ​​the left vertical channel, three steel strips 50 × 5 × 360 mm are laid above it (shown by arrows).
	The 24th row is laid out from 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, the left vertical channel is covered with bricks, only a 130x260 mm hole is left for the main chimney channel. The bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney channel are cut obliquely from below (shown with a yellow arrow). Two steel strips 50×5×360 mm (green arrows) are laid on the front part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, the right and middle vertical channels are covered, as well as the front part of the large and the entire small chamber. Then the open space of the large drying chamber is covered with two steel strips 50×5×360 mm (shown by arrows). Bricks in the laying of the side and front sides of the furnace are pushed forward by 30 mm. The drawing shows the dimensions that should result from this offset.
	The 26th row is laid out from 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the furnace is completely covered, except for the opening for the main chimney. This row continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it also has the facade and parts of the sides protrude outwards by another 30 mm each. All dimensions of the protrusions are indicated on the order drawing.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to its original size, that is, the bricks are shifted from the edge, according to the dimensions indicated on the diagram.
	The 28th row is laid out from 5 red bricks, and is the base of the tube. Cutouts are made from the inner edges on the bricks (shown with a yellow arrow) for the seat of the chimney valve 130 × 250 mm. After that, the valve itself is installed (green arrow).
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second row of the tube. Next is the further laying of the chimney.

If you listen to all the recommendations and thoroughly follow the ordering scheme, this furnace, which has a fairly simple design of channels and departments, is quite within the power to build even a novice stove-maker. The main thing in this work is not to rush, and accurately perform the configuration of each of the rows.

Despite the rapid development of new technologies and the improvement of home heating methods, the old proven brick stoves for wood-fired cottages still do not lose their relevance.

Indeed, often in houses remote from civilization or located in areas where power outages occur, and gas supply is not expected at all, wood-burning brick stoves are the only possible means of heating the room.

But sometimes people deliberately choose brick ovens for their country house despite all the blessings of civilization. After all, they help to create that unique comfort, to give warmth and an atmosphere of solitude, which we are all looking for when going out of town.

About the advantages, the design principle and the features of laying a brick oven with your own hands - we will talk today in this article.

The experience of craftsmen and inventor engineers has given the world a considerable number of types of stoves, from which it is not difficult to choose the only one for giving, which will quickly warm up the room in the winter cold and help cook food.

But, despite all the variety of stone ovens, they can all be divided into 3 categories:

• cooking;
• heating and cooking;
• heating structures.

In addition, you can also find multifunctional designs that combine a fireplace, a water circuit, etc. Therefore, before proceeding with the construction of a brick oven in the country, you should immediately decide on the type of construction.

1. Cooking type of construction. This type of stove is chosen by the owners of the cottage only if the house is used only in the summer. This option is well combined with a tank for heating water. Often, the owners install such a stove in a house where there is gas and electricity supply, but in order to save money, it is more rational to use a wood-burning stove in the summer.

The design is a stove with a hob, a water-heating tank and an oven.

Furnaces for summer cottages are also divided according to the type of construction:

• Russian;
• Dutch (Dutch);
• Swedish (Swedish).

Of course, today you can find many other variations of wood-burning stoves, but these are the most common, which have proven themselves due to their high efficiency, reliability and efficiency.

Russian stove

This design has been used by our ancestors for centuries, and its main feature is the arrangement of a bench and a shelf for drying shoes and clothes. If the house is in use all year round, then this option is very effective. But for a summer cottage, it is better to refuse a Russian stove.

The fact is that the high efficiency of the Russian stove is achieved only with a constant firebox. If you leave such a stove for the winter, then it will take more than one day to dry it later and “start” the stove into operation. Due to its technical features, it quickly gains moisture without a firebox.

In addition, during the first firing of wet bricks, it is possible that it will crack.

The Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, so it will not always be appropriate to look at a small cottage.

The only advantage is the unpretentiousness of the material itself for the construction of the furnace and enough a simple circuit masonry.

Dutch

One of the most popular types of stone ovens, the design of which suggests the presence of a smoke channel. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman effectively heats several rooms at once.

The advantages include:

• small dimensions;
• high efficiency;
• economy of fuel consumption.

But the disadvantages of such a furnace are high quality requirements. building material and wood quality. In addition, at sub-zero temperatures outside the window, such a stove warms up for a long time, so it is better to constantly heat it.

Swede

Such a furnace enjoys well-deserved popularity in our country, as it was developed taking into account the harsh climate of the northern countries. The advantage of the Swede is compactness, high performance, fast heating and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

This is achieved due to the special design of the furnace. The back side with a fireplace usually goes into the living room, and on the front side there is an oven and a hob. For summer cottages, this type of stove is the best choice.

The only drawback of the Swede can be called high requirements for the quality of the material. If a Russian stove can be folded from the remnants of the material, then for a Swede you will have to purchase high-quality ceramic red bricks.

Also, high requirements are placed on firewood "Swedes". They must be well dried, otherwise the stove will not give off heat.

Design features of a brick oven for a summer residence

Depending on the type and design, the oven can perform the following functions:

• Cooking (frying, boiling, stewing, baking, etc.).
• Drying shoes and clothes, as well as preparing food for the winter (mushrooms, berries).
• Heating beds.
• Opportunity to admire the open flames on winter evenings.

In addition to the functional classification, before building a brick oven for a summer residence, you need to decide on the configuration.

• rectangular heating stove;
• T-shaped;
• round oven;
• Russian stove with stove bench;
• baby.

The size of the furnace is also important. The large, thick-walled furnace design is capable of distributing heat over 50 square meters. But in order to warm them up well, it will take at least two hours, which is not always convenient.

This is especially uncomfortable in the country, where the owners drop in only for the weekend. A cold house will warm up for at least 3-4 hours before the room temperature returns to normal.

With a small oven big house do not warm up. Its heat is enough for a room of 15-20 square meters. meters. At the same time, it will warm up in 30-40 minutes, giving off heat around. In addition, we should not forget about the efficiency of the furnace. For a large stove, you need to take care of the supply of firewood in advance and prepare a large one from the summer.

The stone stove also has a significant drawback - the impossibility of heating the distant premises of the house. That is why in large houses with several rooms, 2-3 stoves are placed, each of which has its own chimney and performs its own function.

According to the principle of construction, brick ovens can be:

• Channel with forced movement of gases.
• Bell-type furnaces with free movement of gases.

Channel stoves include the usual "Dutch" or "Swede". The combustion of firewood takes place in the firebox, from which the smoke channel departs. Under the action of draft, combustion products are discharged through this smoke channel.

The main task of this design is to maximize the heating of the furnace wall, and after that the heat will spread throughout the room for a long time.

Despite the simplicity of design, such a furnace has several disadvantages.

• It all depends on the traction force. The narrow channel obstructs the airflow and a sufficiently high chimney is required to overcome this resistance to the flow. In houses with low ceilings, this is not always convenient. And in the end, after arranging the furnace, the owners are faced with the problem of poor draft in the furnace.
• In addition, the principle of the channel structure of the furnace involves the concentration of hot air at the top of the furnace. That is, most of the heat is removed to the top. Because of this, below, near the floor, it is quite cold.
• The efficiency of such units does not exceed 60-65%. And the average, with standard traction, is even less - 40-45%.
• Due to the large design, such an oven heats up for a long time. To heat the structure from scratch, it will take 2.5-3 hours.

Furnaces with free movement of gases show themselves in a completely different way in everyday life. Their principle was first described by Lomonosov, and later modified by Kuznetsov, which is why in everyday life such furnaces were called "blacksmiths".

The principle of operation is based on the movement of free gases. As we know from physics, hot air rises, displacing cold air. In such a furnace, the furnace and combustion chamber are combined, and hot air circulates freely from one chamber to another.

Such furnaces also have a second and sometimes a third chamber, which are interconnected by a dry seam located at the bottom of the chamber.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What are the nuances you need to know before proceeding with the laying of the furnace?

Materials that will be needed for laying the furnace.

Tools that will be needed for laying the furnace:

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.
• Goniometer.

Important! A lot of things when laying a stove depend on the quality of the clay. It should be moderately thick and have an average fat content. Red river clay, which has lain in the open air for at least two years, is considered ideal for the construction of a furnace. Clay, under the influence of precipitation and natural factors, becomes plastic, homogeneous and will firmly hold the masonry.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands: step by step instructions

If all the conditions of the instructions are met, the laying of the furnace will take 30-35 days. Great importance here is in order. You should not violate it or try to introduce your own adjustments to the design. The laying of rows, their number and installation of elements are clearly calibrated and require strict adherence to the instructions.

Below is a diagram of the ordering of a brick oven with a hob and an oven.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace.

Once you have decided where you will place the stove: in the corner, in the center or against the wall, you should clearly mark the location of the stone structure on the floor.

In order to clearly guess with the construction of the chimney and not to rest when laying the pipe in wooden beam roofs, we use a construction plumb line.

• We draw the layout of the stove and the location of the firebox, chimney, hob and oven.
• Consider the location of windows and doors that will prevent the free circulation of warm air.

In order for the stove to serve for a long time and please you with its maximum performance, we will give some recommendations regarding its placement. And it's not just about following the rules. fire safety but also its efficiency.

Today we propose to consider the features of a brick oven with a hob, since it is it that is very popular with summer residents. Our detailed diagram ordering will help you build brick ovens for wood-fired cottages.

Step 2. We build the foundation for the furnace.

The construction of any furnace begins with the construction of the foundation. This is a very important step, on which strength will depend, reliable design and its effectiveness.

Ideally, of course, designing the stove even before the construction of the house. Then both the place and the ideal place for the furnace will be allotted, and the foundation will be laid out at the stage of erecting the floors. But often people think about laying a stove after they have built a home. Therefore, we chose this option so that you can build a foundation from scratch in an already finished house.

In no case should the foundation be connected with the main foundation of the house. When shrinking the house or other phenomena, the base of the stove should not be deformed.

• We mark with a construction marker on the floor a rectangle along which the boards need to be cut.

  

  Keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the size of the oven by 10-15 cm on each side.

• By marking with a grinder, we cut out the boards and remove them to the sides.
• Now you need to “deep” into the ground by 70 cm in order to build a solid foundation for the stove. For this we use bayonet shovel. Focus on the layer of soil that will freeze in winter. IN middle lane Russia, it can reach 80-100 cm. In this case, you will have to increase the depth of the pit. It is very important to insulate the perimeter of the foundation with high quality. If you are building a stove in an already finished house, where the common foundation is well insulated around the perimeter, then you can dig a hole of 30 cm. This will be enough.

  

• After a pit is dug in the ground along the perimeter of the marking, we proceed to the construction of a wooden formwork. The formwork acts as a framework that forms the foundation. For formwork, you can use plywood boards, old ceilings, etc.

  

  This will not affect the quality and strength of the foundation in any way. Measure the length and width of the dug hole and cut the boards to this size. Using nails, put together the formwork. It should end 14 cm before the start of the finishing floor.

• After the formwork has been built, it is necessary to protect the wood from the moisture that will be contained in the cement mortar. To do this, we lay dense polyethylene around the perimeter and connect it with a construction stapler to the walls. Waterproofing is the most important component of the work in the construction of the foundation. If the frozen, moisture-saturated soil comes into direct contact with concrete base furnace, then a force equal to 25 tons per 1 square meter will press on the foundation, which leads to destruction
• Now you can start filling cement mortar, but before that you need to create a solid pillow that retains moisture. At the bottom of the pit we pour gravel of medium hardness and pour 10-15 cm of sand.
• We fill the foundation with cement mortar to the height of the formwork, not reaching the clean floor by 14 cm.
• We lay a reinforcing metal mesh on top.

  

  Level the top well with a shovel and check with a building level how even the surface is. Now you need to wait 24-28 days, depending on the quality of the cement mortar, until the foundation is completely dry. In no case do not rush, and do not lay the stove before this time, otherwise it will deform in a few weeks.

• On a flat and well-dried concrete surface, we lay two continuous rows of bricks around the perimeter of the foundation. Thus, our foundation reaches the finishing floor.

  

• Now it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material in 2 layers on top of the masonry, which will perform the function of waterproofing.

  

• A solid base for a brick oven is ready - you can proceed directly to the masonry. But, before laying bricks on the mortar, it is better to lay out the entire structure, according to the scheme, “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you will be able to see difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Attention! It is also recommended to perform each new layer first "dry". This is especially true for beginners who first encounter the laying of the furnace. After laying a brick on the mortar, it will be difficult for you to correct your mistakes and inaccuracies.

Step 3. Preparing bricks for masonry.

Immediately measure the amount of brick that you need for the first stage of work. Please note that laying a furnace is a complex and time-consuming process and cannot be completed in a day. Be guided that beginners will be able to master 4-5 rows a day, no more.

Select a portion of red ceramic brick, clean it well and soak for 12 hours in water.

When you lay out a fireclay brick firebox, it will be enough just to rinse it with water.

The process of preparing the material for masonry includes, and the division of the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, squeezing in the corners. See the diagram for what shape of brick you will need for each row. It is better to do this immediately, so that later, when laying a row, not to be distracted by these moments.

Brick splitting also needs to be done at this stage. Keep in mind that before you "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove.

At the same time, one longitudinal groove is enough for ½ brick. But if you need to chip off 1/6 or 1/8 of a brick, then a groove is made on all sides of the brick.

Step 4. We prepare the mortar for masonry.

The correct mortar for laying the furnace is the key to its efficient operation. If you decide to lay a brick oven for a wood-fired cottage with your own hands, then it is better to prepare the solution yourself.

Video. Furnace lining. We make a solution of clay with our own hands.

Although on sale now you can find ready-made factory solutions for laying the furnace, which are of good quality.

To do this, you need sand and red river clay. It is the clay that is indispensable material, without which no masonry mortar is unthinkable. Due to its unique properties, soft and plastic, it, under the influence of fire, turns into a durable stone.

After firing, it acquires the strength of a brick and can endure the highest temperature. However, in order for it to really be strong and securely fasten the masonry, it is necessary to observe the correct proportion of all ingredients.

One of the main indicators of the quality of clay is its fat content. If you take "skinny" clay, then when heated, it can crack.

We will not indicate the exact amount of ingredients, since there is no ideal proportion. Depending on the quality of the clay, its fat content, the solution is made "by eye".

It should have the consistency of thick homemade sour cream, not dripping from the trowel. At the same time, in no case should there be grains in it, so the solution should be thoroughly kneaded.

We measure required amount clay, which is needed for masonry, and fill it with water. You do not need to immediately prepare the solution for the entire furnace, if you do not plan to finish the masonry in 1 day. Measure as much as you can.

Attention. Clay mortar is not suitable for arranging the foundation and chimney. Usually cement mortar is used for this.

Step 5 We are building a furnace.

The first row is very important in the furnace and the whole form of the structure depends on it. Therefore, first lay out the first solid row “dry”, and put the building level on top. Keep straight corners. They can be checked in the process with a plumb line.

Before proceeding directly to the laying of bricks, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with detailed instructions and tips for building a furnace.

Video. Learning to lay a small stove.

Advice! Even seams may not work the first time. For this you can use wooden slats, equal in thickness to the thickness of the seam. They are laid on a row, after which the solution is applied and the second row is placed. Prepare so many slats that they are enough for three rows. By the time you have completed the third row, you will be able to remove the sizing tool from the first row and use it further.

Before laying the first row of bricks on the roofing material, make markings with chalk.

Advice! So that the stove does not go to the side during laying, and it is not necessary to check the vertical of the stove after each row, you can pull 4 sheer threads in the corners, which are fixed to the ceiling. They will serve as a kind of beacons as landmarks for the furnace.

• 2nd row repeats the first. Watch the thickness of the seams. Here the blower door is installed.

  

  To do this, we pass the burnt metal wire through the holes and twist it into a bundle. The second end of the wire is laid between the bricks.

• The 3rd row forms an ash chamber in which all the ashes and ash accumulate.

  

  All gaps between bricks and metal elements must be filled with asbestos cord, which levels the temperature drop during the furnace.

  

• 4, 5th row begins to form a firebox with fireclay bricks.
• We install a grate on top. Keep a seam gap of 3-5 mm. This gap must be left taking into account the expansion of the metal at high temperatures. Fill this gap with sand. We block the door of the blower with a brick. Installing the oven.

  

• 6th row. We begin to form the chimney pipe and lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.
• 7th, 8th, 9th rows - laying the firebox with fireclay bricks.

  

• On the 10th row, close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Here we lay a metal corner (on the front side under the stove).
• On the 10th row we lay an asbestos strip before we install the hob on the next row. The fact is that metal elements tend to expand when heated, so it is important to lay a layer of asbestos.

  

• 11th row - install the hob. Please note that the slab is placed directly into the recesses on the brick. To clearly guess with the markings of these recesses, number each brick when you lay the row and mark with a marker the place where it is necessary to cut it with a grinder.



After that, assemble a row for a solution. Keep in mind that the entire row is placed on a clay-sand mortar, but the hob itself is placed on a clay-asbestos grout. To prepare it, take a small portion of the prepared clay-sand mortar and add crushed asbestos, knead well.

Attention! If the burners of the hob have different diameters, then it is necessary to place larger ones above the combustion chamber, and smaller holes above the oven.

Attention! When laying out the smoke channels, make sure that the solution does not remain inside. Remove the remains of the solution with a washcloth or trowel, otherwise it will then interfere with the unhindered circulation of hot air.

• 17.18th row. We cover the hob, carefully filling the seams with a 3-5 mm solution.

  

• 19th and 20th row - on the right side we install the doors through which the oven will be cleaned.
• We make the 21-23rd row according to the ordering scheme of the chimneys.
• 24th row - we lay out the last steel plate on top of the bricks, which ensures the zigzag movement of gas in the smoke channel.
• 25th row - put a metal sheet.

  

• On the 26th row, we mount the valve, taking into account a gap of 5 mm, between which we lay an asbestos cord.



27-28th row - lay out a hole for the chimney.

• On the 29th row, the masonry is expanded by ¼ brick to create a cornice. Here we block all channels, leaving only the pipe.

  

• On the 30th row, we make an additional extension of 5 cm.
• On the 31st row, we reduce the size of the furnace to its original form.

  

Step 6. Laying the chimney.

The location of the chimney is indicated at the design stage of the furnace. But in any case, for normal draft, the height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters.

Also make sure that there is no residue of the solution inside, otherwise it will interfere with normal traction.

Taking the pipe out of the house through the roof, consider the height of the visor. It must be 50 cm below the top of the chimney, otherwise turbulence may form around the chimney.

We complete the laying of the chimney with a metal grate that prevents debris from entering the chimney. You can also install a cap (umbrella) on the top of the chimney, which will reliably protect the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Finishing lining of the furnace.

After the oven is completely laid out, you can proceed to the finishing lining. As an outer layer, you can use a facing decorative stone, ceramic tiles, Red brick.

Remember that any additional material applied to the outside of the stove will reduce heat output.

Therefore, if you are more interested in the efficiency of the furnace than its appearance, you can simply cover the brick with a layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Drying the oven.

Having completely finished laying the furnace, it is necessary to dry it well, since it now contains a large amount of moisture from the solution.

To do this, open the door of the combustion chamber and leave the stove for 7-10 days. Brick and clay-sand should dry well, otherwise from high temperature"Raw masonry" can be deformed.

If you build a stove in warm weather, it will dry naturally. In cold weather, use a fan.

Another option for forced drying is a 200-300W electric light bulb, which is installed inside the firebox and left to burn for 7-10 days. But this is a forced measure that must be taken only if the temperature outside is less than zero degrees Celsius.

Step 9. Kindling the furnace.

When all finishing work completed and the oven is well dried, the first test kindling must be carried out. This is not a tricky thing, but it’s better to follow our advice to avoid trouble and maximize the efficiency of the furnace:

• Do not use garbage or glossy magazines for kindling.
• Keep flammable items away from the oven.
• Close the firebox door tightly before the flame ignites.
• Do not immediately apply strong heat to the oven. You need to warm it up gradually.
• Use only high-quality, well-dried firewood.

The video describes in detail the process of laying on a dry simple brick oven

Video. Detailed laying of a brick oven for a summer residence.

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In a country house or in a country house, a brick stove is still relevant, which heats the room and serves as a cooking appliance. Using the instruction-ordering of the heating and cooking stove, you can build a brick structure with your own hands, while significantly saving material resources.

When choosing which particular design to give preference to, it must be borne in mind that there are the following types of furnaces, depending on functionality:

• heating brick oven, designed only for heating the room. The structure is small in size (column - Dutch);
• cooking types of brick ovens for the home are equipped with a cast-iron stove, which is suitable for cooking, heating water. The stove is not adapted to heat the dwelling (Swede);
• combined, universal heating and cooking structures with a hob, capable of heating a different area of ​​a country house. Modern ovens are equipped with an oven, a niche for drying fruit and vegetable products. Often combine stoves and fireplaces.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick types of heating furnaces differ in the thickness of the walls of the heating device:

• thin-walled (Dutch) - the wall lies in 1/4 brick (6.5 cm). The design quickly heats up the room, but practically does not retain heat. Profitable as a stove for a summer residence, where the owners do not live in winter, but come for a short period;
• thick-walled (Russian oven) - wall thickness - 12-25 cm (1/2 −1 brick). The unit is heated for a long time, and the heat is maintained for longer than a day. The lack of construction - a lot of firewood is required for the winter;
• combined designs, in which the firebox is laid out with thick walls, and the chimney is 1/4 brick.

Types of furnaces

For heating the house and cooking food, a brick oven is used, which is different in the form of construction:

• rectangular;
• corner;
• square;
• T - shaped types of stoves;
• round.

Various exterior finishes applied heating devices in a private house:

• design "for embroidery";
• plastered;
• ceramic cladding;
• metal cover finish.

They put stoves for heating with different directions of smoke flows:

• direct-flow and counter-current;
• single-turn and multi-turn;
• with horizontal or vertical channels;
• channelless and with bottom heating.

Each owner must choose before building which furnace device suits him best.

General arrangement of the heating structure

To independently fold a brick heating stove for the house, you need to carefully understand the structure of the stove and the principle of its operation:

• the heart of the device can be figuratively called a firebox where coal or firewood is laid;
• after fuel combustion, heated air enters the internal channel wells, the walls of which heat up, giving off heat to the room;
• below, under the combustion chamber, there is an ash pan, separated by a grate;
• the ash chamber serves not only to collect combustion products, but also regulates the air supply to the fuel (by opening and closing the door, you can increase or decrease the air supply);
• it is recommended to clean the ash pan as it is filled so that a reverse draft is not created with the flow of smoke into the living room;
• the size of the ash pan is selected depending on the type of fuel. If it is supposed to heat with firewood, the height of the ash pan is equal to 1/5 of the height of the furnace section, with solid fuel, a third is enough;
• in the upper part of the firebox there is an opening through which the smoke is directed to the chimney;
• hot air passes through the heating ducts, and then goes out through the pipe;
• soot is gradually deposited on the walls of the chimney, which should be cleaned regularly. Special doors lead to the cleaning chambers;
• the scheme of the furnace determines how to insert the oven, lay the cast-iron hob, install the tank for heating water.

Each type of stove for a brick house has its own chimney arrangement. They help to figure out how to lay brick heating stoves correctly, drawings of the order of the heating and cooking stove, which detail the operation procedure.

Choosing a place in the house

In order to make the most of the quality indicators of the chosen model, you need to know how to properly position the brick oven for the house in the space of the room.

• Heating and cooking devices are recommended to be placed in the house, taking into account the following nuances:
• the best place for laying the stove is at the intersection of the inner walls of the partitions. At the same time, the hob and the fuel door should be in the kitchen, and the heated wall should “look” into the room;
• using brick oven projects, you can install the building right in the middle of a large room. In this case, the room is divided into 2 parts, and especially beautiful designs serve as an interior decoration;
• you can not curtain the walls with clothes or curtains, so as not to create a fire hazard;
• when the heating stove is located near the outer wall, a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the street;
• if the brick structure weighs more than 250 kg, it is necessary to make a solid foundation for the installation of a brick oven, which at the same time will not come into contact with the foundation of the house;
• roof beams should not touch the chimney to avoid the risk of fire;
• a metal sheet is placed in front of the furnace, the edge of which is pressed against the brickwork of the furnace.

To ensure the removal of smoke, the stove pipe must rise above the roof at least 0.5 meters.

Necessary materials and tools

To lay out a stove for a wood-burning house, you must first prepare the necessary components:

• cast iron hob with burners;
• door for the combustion chamber;
• ash pan door;
• small doors to clean flues;
• grate;
• wire or steel tape to secure the doors;
• reinforcing strips of steel;
• metal corner for edging the top of the device;
• damper for blocking the summer course of smoke;
• metal sheet (pre-furnace) to ensure fire safety;
• oven, water heater.

Brick ovens for the house - their drawings with orders are designed for a certain amount of red and refractory bricks. At the same time, the building is preliminarily laid dry in order to correctly select the required material and understand the principle of operation of the heater.

• types of hammers: pickaxe, furnace and rubber;
• wooden spatula for mixing the solution;
• levels: horizontal and vertical;
• trowel (trowel);
• pliers, rasp, chisel;
• containers for solution, water;
• bast brush.

Which solution is better to use

The laying scheme of the furnace requires the use of various solutions in the process of its construction:

• to build a solid foundation, a mortar of high quality cement and sand is used in a ratio of 1:3. The structure is strengthened by adding gravel, reinforcement;
• we put the first (zero) row of the furnace with our own hands solid. Be sure to align the plane horizontally and vertically. A cement-sand mortar is used;
• the main body of the device with heating wells is laid out on a clay-sand mortar. This takes into account that before using the building for its intended purpose, the masonry must dry for at least 2-3 days;
• for the fortress of the combustion chamber, fireclay is added instead of ordinary sand, using the ratio clay:sand:water (1:1:0.25);
• the pipe is made out on a cement or lime mortar to prevent the building from soaking during precipitation. It should be borne in mind that the cement composition for laying furnaces is used within 1 hour. In the future, the mixture becomes unusable.

Preparing your own lime mortar at home is not recommended, so as not to harm your health. It is easier to use store-bought lime dough, which is used as the basis for mixing the mortar.

Milestones and Important Features

All the nuances of how to lay out the oven with your own hands are presented in the ordinal drawings of brick ovens for the home. It is only necessary to use the material presented correctly.

The calculation of the efficiency of the required device helps to choose the most suitable furnace drawings. At the same time, the standard of heat radiation with square meter area of ​​the device is considered to be 0.5 kW in normal conditions, and 0.76 kW in severe frosts. It is assumed that the house is well insulated from the outside.

To heat a living area of ​​100 sq. meters, it is necessary to build a furnace structure 2.5 m high, with a useful heating area of ​​17.5 sq. meters. In this case, in normal mode, 8.5 kW of heat is released, and with intensive use of the device - 13.3 kW. The heat transfer of cooking furnaces is slightly higher due to the metal stove, oven.

What furnaces are in size, power, appearance, is taken into account when choosing a suitable structure. All parts of the structure are interconnected, therefore, when calculating how to lay the firebox of a device with a stove, the following requirements must be observed:

• installation of the firebox according to the drawing always corresponds to the standard size of the laid brick. Therefore, it is recommended to pre-fold the stove dry;
• we lay out the device for country needs with thinner walls, for permanent heating it is better to lay a thick-walled firebox or purchase a finished cast-iron structure.

A step-by-step diagram of laying the simplest design of a heating and cooking unit

If there is no experience of a stove-maker, but a person is familiar with the principles of building masonry, you can lay out a simple device for cooking and heating a building with your own hands. A Swedish-designed stove with a separate cooking facility is most suitable for beginners.

Getting started - laying out the zero and first rows of the furnace device with solid masonry, with obligatory bandaging of the rows. In this case, it is necessary to carefully calibrate the horizontal and vertical plane building level, to ensure the accuracy of the angles on the entire surface of the base of the future heating structure.

Scheme order:

• on the 3rd row, it is necessary to lay out the blower chamber and begin mounting the ash door (14 × 13 cm), securing it with steel wire or metal strips. On the sides of the device, 3/4 bricks should be installed;
• on the left, the construction of a chimney channel begins, measuring 14 cm. A cleaning door is installed in the wall to select soot, which is best replaced with a half brick placed on the edge;
• on the 5th row, the ash door is covered with a brick, a 26 × 26 cm hole is formed for the installation of grates so that the ash from the burnt material spills into the prepared compartment;
• on the 6th row, the blower decreases to 20 cm, which is slightly wide over size grates. At the same time, it is necessary to narrow the smoke channel to 26×26 cm;
• in the 7th row, the bricks for the grate are slightly squeezed to the size of the device so that the grate fits freely in the recess without fixing with mortar;
• on the 8th row, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower section of the firebox is formed (52 × 26 cm), a cast-iron door of the firebox is installed;
• 9, 10 rows are laid in accordance with the scheme, always maintaining the correct dressing of bricks, in which each element of the masonry rests on the 2 lower ones;
• on the 11th row, the furnace door is completely fixed. A cast-iron hob is placed on top of the weak masonry mortar. The perimeter of the furnace device is reinforced with a metal corner (30 × 30 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm);
• the formation of the chimney shield continues up to the 20th row, repeating even and odd rows without change;
• on row 21, two vertical chimney channels are combined into one, forming a horizontal overlap of rows 22-23;
• the opening of the third channel is lined with bricks in compliance with the dressings, forming a pipe for removing smoke.

The finished oven must be dried for 10-15 days with the doors open. Then it is recommended to gradually heat the device - first with thin branches, chips, gradually switching to wood fuel.

What to consider when laying a heating unit

Mandatory fire safety standards:

• the foundation of the heating structure should not come into contact with the base of the residential building;
• maintain a minimum distance between heating structure and a wooden wall of the house - 26 cm;
• the size of the metal sheet in front of the firebox is not less than 50 × 70 cm;
• elevation above the floor of the zero row - 14 cm or more;
• from the top of the structure to the ceiling, a gap of 35 cm is maintained (not less);
• the thickness of the chimney wall in the attic is 12 or more centimeters;
• if the top of the attic is made of combustible material, it is necessary to fill the area with sand, 10-13 cm deep;
• the structure of the pipe above the roof is increased in width - at least 13 cm;
• if the pipe is 3 or more meters from the ridge, its top is located 10 ° from the horizon line of the ridge;
• in the case when the distance is less than 3 meters, the pipe should rise 50 cm above the ridge.

How to fold the stove yourself

With self-laying, it is important to fully adhere to the chosen scheme-ordering of the structure. In this case, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that each element rests on the 2 lower ones. First you need to stock up on the right amount of halves and quarters of bricks.

It is recommended to first lay out each row dry in order to remember the place of each brick in the masonry. The thickness of the seams is maintained within 3-5 cm. The excess solution must be removed in a timely manner, without waiting until it hardens. Plastering the chimney is not allowed, as heat transfer will be disturbed.

If a gap forms between the door frame and the brickwork, it should be sealed with asbestos cord.

The structure of the heating and cooking unit must meet all the requirements of the drawing - only then the product made by oneself will serve for a long time.