Water floor in a wooden house cons. How to make a warm floor on a wooden base: installation tips. Common Mistakes to Avoid

There is an opinion among homeowners that arranging a warm floor on a wooden floor is simply impossible. Moreover, they believe that the need for it is completely absent. These people support their point of view by the fact that wood, as a natural material, is in itself a heat- and energy-saving material. Underfloor heating, they believe, cannot be installed due to the deformation of wooden elements, which should occur with constant changes in humidity and temperature. However, specialists have already managed to find ways to solve the problems that arise, which makes it possible to use a modern underfloor heating system even with a wooden floor.

Now in houses with wooden floors, a warm water floor is no longer a rarity. It is clear that reliability concrete base no one is going to challenge it, but far from everywhere there is an opportunity to equip it. For such cases, an alternative underfloor heating system is excellent, the installation of which is much easier than laying a screed.

In addition to the relative simplicity of providing heating, this approach has a large set of significant advantages, the main of which are as follows:

• the interior space of the rooms is not reduced, which could be damaged in case of laying, which occupies a small, but sensitive volume for rooms with low ceilings;
• there is no need to perform rather dirty work, the production of which requires the laying of a concrete base.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water floor is carried out directly on a wooden base or on a polystyrene coating. For laying pipes in the wood of the floorboards, special recesses are made. To ensure a higher efficiency of heating the room, the laid pipes are usually supplemented with special metal plates. The system laid in this way is covered with waterproofing material. The resulting thermal cake is covered with a topcoat suitable for specific conditions.

Since the thickness of such a system is small, it does not occupy the volume and height of the heated room at all.

Features of installing a warm floor on a wood base

The mechanics of heating rooms, which is embedded in a warm water floor, is quite understandable: the heating system communicates its heat first to the material covering it, and then to the finish coat. The room itself is heated already warm exterior finish gender.

This principle of heating does not give any failures, provided that the floor is covered concrete screed. If the pipes of the heating system are laid in wood, then the heat transfer process is disturbed, since wood is a good natural heat insulator. Naturally, the very fact of the possibility of laying a warm floor on a wooden base is beyond doubt, but it should be borne in mind that heating a room will not be as effective as with concrete. On the other hand, the tree will reliably protect the cellar from overheating, which is especially important in cases where they are used to store homemade products and vegetables.

It is not worth regretting the absence of a concrete screed for the reason that it could cause a lot of pressure on the plank floor, which could simply not withstand the mass of the concrete monolith.

An additional difficulty affecting the installation of such a heating system is the need to lay the substrate, the presence of which is an immutable law. However, even with all the above points, installing a water-heated floor on a plank base is a completely feasible task. To do this, it is enough just to have sufficient patience and knowledge of the specifics available in the performance of these works.

Advantages of a screedless underfloor heating

The installed underfloor heating system is light in weight. It is able to effectively heat the people in the room, pre-heating the structures and elements adjacent to it. For the arrangement of such a system does not require much effort and time. In the case of its laying, there is no need to wait about a month, as it happens when installing a concrete screed to ensure its complete solidification.

The heating system laid in this way is ready for use immediately after the installation of the top coat. To cover the heating system laid on the floor, carpet or linoleum is used. If it fits in, then the finish may be ceramic tiles.

Nuances to consider when laying underfloor heating on a wooden floor

The most common and most affordable technology for laying a warm floor is its installation by the flooring method, when the pipes intended for the circulation of the coolant are laid on logs or draft boards, having previously prepared special channels there.

More efficient heating of the room is provided by laying special metal plates on the floor, the recesses of which coincide with the grooves prepared in the wooden base. Such plates, which increase the efficiency of heating, at the same time eliminate the need for laying any substrate.

By performing the installation of a warm floor on your own, you can not spend money on rather expensive metal plates, but replace them with foil having a thickness of about 200 microns. However, in case of execution finishing with the use of linoleum or tile, the presence of a substrate is a prerequisite. The substrate can be gypsum-fiber or cement-bonded particle boards.

The procedure for laying pipes forming a floor heating system

Pipe laying can be done in two ways, differing from each other in the design of the channels intended for laying pipes. The elements underlying these methods are modules and rails.

In the case of using the first option, it is required to purchase ready-made modules made from chipboard. Such modules already have special recesses prepared in advance, the distance between which is determined by the desired amount of space heating.

Such modular systems as part of their kit, as a rule, have everything you need:

• modules with grooves prepared in them;
• pipes;
• fasteners;
• metal plates.

The assembly of the structure is carried out according to the scheme accompanying the purchased kit.

However, the modular way is quite expensive. For this reason, many people like the more budgetary method, which consists in stuffing slats that replace chipboard sheets and are cut from boards or plywood. The diameter of the grooves in the rails must significantly exceed the size of the pipes laid in them and be significantly more than 17 mm. Thanks to this condition, it is possible to prevent damage to the pipes caused by the movement of the wooden base. The width of the strips is determined by the distance between the pipes laid in them.

Using a mixed floor heating installation method

Some masters use a method that combines the advantages of rack and modular options. Using this method makes it easy to install underfloor heating without spending significant amounts of money.

Work begins with the fact that a recess is selected in the edged board for laying pipes. Then a distance of 7 cm or more is measured from the wall, at which a recess is made with a cutter to bring the pipe into the next row. The thickness of the boards used should be more sizes the sample they make. Their width should be equal to the pitch used when laying pipes. Planks are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws. Laying a rough base when using this method is not required.

Light rail heating system

If the system is to be laid on an old floor surface, the latter must be thoroughly inspected and, if necessary, repaired. Each of the floorboards should be lifted and checked in what condition the logs are. Worn or damaged structural elements should be replaced or restored. Sometimes wooden beams are nailed to the floor beams, insulation is often laid.

For this purpose, you can use polyethylene, the laying of which is overlapped. When laying to the walls along the perimeter of the entire floor covering, it is necessary to attach a damper tape, the width of which should be about 5 cm.

Before starting work, a plan of the room is drawn, which accurately indicates the location of the pipe connection, as well as the installation location of the control equipment. On the plan, you should put the location of the guides and indicate the necessary gaps, the value of which, as a rule, ranges from 0.15 m to 0.3 m. When laying, the most convenient is the use of corrugated pipes Ø 16 mm. Reiki are made, proceeding from the sizes necessary in each specific conditions.

The underfloor heating is laid along the lags. When installing guides between them, channels are left for installing the pipeline.

It is convenient to strengthen the guides to the rough base using self-tapping screws. In places where pipes are bent, the corners of the strips must be rounded off. Foil with a thickness of 50 microns or more is placed in the prepared grooves. To fix it, you can use a stapler. Then, pipes of the heating system are laid in the channels formed in this way. When attaching the formed blocks, you can use pre-prepared metal plates.

After the installation of the system is completed, it is necessary to connect it to the heating pipes and pressure test all existing joints. After making sure that the warm water floor system is functioning normally, you can proceed to laying the selected finish. In the case of laying the substrate, it is better to use CSP boards that do not contain formaldehyde.

Thus, you are convinced that a warm water floor can be installed on your own on the surface of a wood floor. The implementation of these works is facilitated by the possibility of using rails or ready-made modules in the process of laying.

The best option for laying on a warm floor - laminate.

The techniques described in the article are presented visually in the following video.

Video installation of underfloor heating on a wooden base

You can use our instructions and make yourself a warm floor if you have a wooden house. Comfortable accommodation in the house you are provided, as the wooden floor and the house itself will be warm.

To the most effective devices space heating includes a warm water floor, but its profitability is far from optimal. When installing such systems in wooden houses, there are a number of significant limitations. A screed cannot be used, since the plank base may not withstand such a strong load. However, there are others effective ways how to make an electric underfloor heating do-it-yourself wooden house no load on the base.

Warm floor in a wooden house

If we take into account the buildings of the old model, then during their construction were used wooden floors. In this case, it is possible to use a concrete screed, on the surface of which a warm floor will be placed. In the case of a private house, such manipulations are impossible. Often we are talking about weak and time-shaken wooden floors that are not able to withstand significant loads.

If it was decided to use electrical systems for space heating, then the following important points should be considered:

1. Wood belongs to the category of flammable materials. That is why, as far as possible (apartments), it is the infrared type of underfloor heating that should be used.
2. Such devices are not able to replace the heating system, so you should take care of heating radiators.
3. Low thermal conductivity, which will lead to the use of an increased temperature regime.

What are the requirements for underfloor heating?

Requirements to warm floor

If it was decided to install an electric underfloor heating in a wooden house, special attention should be paid to compliance with safety rules that will eliminate the possibility of unforeseen and dangerous situations in the future.

Basic Rules:

1. Do not place the cable under interior items. Violation will lead to overheating of the device and its breakdown.
2. When using species such as oak or beech, the thickness of the boards should not exceed 2.5 cm, and larch and pine 2.3 cm.
3. In order to avoid the formation and retention of moisture (condensate), laying a solid waterproofing layer will be required. Any electrical equipment does not tolerate water, and underfloor heating is no exception.
4. The thermostat will help to avoid possible overheating of the structure. It should be equipped with an air cushion and temperature sensors. This will prevent self-ignition. For wooden floors, the maximum temperature is 40 ° C.
5. The installation of the cable is carried out evenly, which will ensure the same heating of all sections.

In the room where underfloor heating systems are installed, it is not recommended to use any carpets. This will create an unnecessary insulating layer that will not allow heat to penetrate into the room.

What mounting technologies are used

Underfloor heating installation technology

There are only two options for laying a warm floor: with and without a screed. Everything will depend on the strength indicators of the base of the room or the building as a whole. At the same time, some other additional factors, such as age of construction and frequency of use of the premises.

No screed

Warm floor for a wooden house

If you plan to install underfloor heating in a wooden house, then the use of a screed is not recommended due to its enormous weight. The technology used is somewhat different from the usual. To begin with, the necessary preliminary work is carried out aimed at cleaning and preparing the working surface. A log is being installed, under which it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating material (at least 4.5 cm), in which one of the sides will be foil. A mounting grid is placed on top to help secure the cable used.

Important! If desired, you can use a special laminate in which the TEP cable is already installed. However, you should be prepared for significant costs for its acquisition.

Installation is carried out with loops, the marking of which is carried out on the logs, in which cuts for the loops are made. The cable itself is mounted in prepared cuts and secured with clamps. At some distance from the floor (convenient for a person), a temperature controller is installed, and the sensor is placed between the lags. After completing the performance check of each of the elements of the system, you can start laying the finish coating. There must be a layer of at least 5 cm from the device to the coating.

Using a screed

Screed for underfloor heating in a wooden house

The wooden floor should be made smooth and even (monolithic). The tree should not walk, so any loosening should be excluded. If necessary, the structure is completely disassembled and reassembled. After that, a waterproofing material (polyethylene with a density of 200 microns) is laid. Thermal insulation should be laid on it (“tizol” is perfect). The foil side should be facing up. The cable is installed over the thermal insulation material. Fastenings are made with a pre-calculated step using loops. After installation, the cable is filled with a cement-based mortar. But before that, it is recommended to install a thermostat and a temperature sensor. It is placed between the loops.

Installation Features

Installation of a warm floor in a wooden house

There are a number of features that should be worked out even before the start of installation work. Wooden houses require a particularly careful approach, because additional weight can lead to skew or shrinkage of the structure. The heating system will be laid on logs.

The sequence of work will look like this:

• arrangement of the rough coating;
• laying a vapor barrier layer;
• installation of waterproofing material;
• finishing processing;
• soundproofing;
• flooring.

Inside this pie, the underfloor heating system will be placed. If all the upcoming work is planned to be carried out independently, then you should pay attention to one of the following methods:

1. The use of plates with a reflective effect. This is a kind of compromise if it is necessary to carry out a screed based on concrete mortar. The plates will help to direct the heat flows in the right direction, thereby increasing the efficiency indicator.
2. Small ventilation gap. Can only be used as additional source heat in the presence of central heating. The powerful system cannot be used in this case. Existing ducting will reduce the efficiency of the installed equipment.
3. Screed over an existing floor. This method belongs to the category of complex and requires preliminary preparation. The heat-insulating properties of the screed are at the proper level, which will significantly increase the efficiency of space heating. Such manipulations are recommended to be carried out in rooms with a high level of humidity or if it is planned to install tiles or any other cold coating.
4. Skillful combination of concrete and dry screed. The use of two of the most common technologies at the same time will make it possible to make a surface that can withstand any load.

Regardless of the final choice of the preferred technology, it is important to strictly follow the available instructions and listen to all the wishes of the manufacturer.

Installation work

Installation work when laying a warm floor

Experts recommend laying the system under a small layer of screed. Thus, it will be possible to install tiles or any other types of cold coatings as a floor covering. The arrangement of the underlying layer is mandatory and for this you will need high-quality heat-insulating materials, the surface of which is metallized. The main stages of laying a warm floor are similar to the installation of a heated water floor. The underlying layer acts as a solid base, regardless of the technology used.

The device is connected to special sensors, then to the mains and covered with floorboards. You can not use a cement screed, because it can add a significant weight to the main structure. But to equip the rough floor, in this case, you have to. To begin with, guides are mounted, between which heat-insulating material is laid. A welded mesh is laid on top of it, on which the power cable is placed. It must be placed on the same level.

Saw grooves are used at the points of its intersection. Their bottom is lined with foil, and clamps and mounting tape act as fasteners. After that, you should proceed to the arrangement of the finishing coating, for which it is customary to use a beam or a board with tenon grooves as connections. Sheet piles will also come in handy. Before proceeding with the arrangement of the final coating, it is necessary to connect the system to the network and leave it on for several days.

The most common design mistakes

Mistakes when laying underfloor heating

If a beginner takes up the matter, then difficulties can arise at every step. The secrets of success lie in the details, which should be known before the start of the upcoming work. It is necessary to understand that it is necessary to work with electrical appliances that have elevated level danger. This type of coating is designed to heat the surface of the floor covering, thereby creating the necessary home comfort. The design will be based on a mat or two-core cable. The length should be calculated in advance, since cutting it yourself is not recommended.

In most cases, problems arise precisely due to non-compliance with the designated technologies and violation of the rules for the installation work.

The area of ​​​​the room will also play an important role. Separately, the area that will warm up and the one on which the furniture or plumbing is placed is calculated. It is strictly forbidden to install the cable under furniture, as the system will work to warm up the bed or closet, and not the surrounding space. This will lead to an early breakdown due to huge and regular loads. The work surface must be cleaned and prepared in advance. The loops should not touch or intersect.

Curves are also to be avoided. Stepping on the cable is prohibited, as internal deformation of the wires and their subsequent short circuit and loss of elasticity are possible. It is not recommended to place the temperature sensor in the thickness of concrete, since a corrugated pipe is used for this. Before switching on, you should wait until the solution used is completely dry. Drying the screed with a device is not recommended.

Conclusion

Underfloor heating in a wooden house

Laying a warm electric floor in a wooden house can be done in several ways, based on time-tested schemes. To create a cozy atmosphere in a wooden house, any technology is suitable. If you follow the recommendations specified by the manufacturer and follow the safety rules, then installing a warm floor will not take much effort and time, not to mention saving the family budget.

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the issue of heating. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the peculiarity of the operation of a wooden house.

So, for example, it is forbidden to heat the floors above 30 degrees. The wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed, turns into dust. Therefore, a water-heated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source should be used for this purpose.

Warm water floor cake in wooden country house greatly limits the possibility of using a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be laid dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, it should be noted that some popular Decoration Materials: laminate, parquet board - when heated above 25 ° C, they begin to emit toxic formaldehyde fumes.

Variants of the device of a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of laying method is selected depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

Common mounting methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. You can lay the mats on a flat subfloor. To do this, pre-trim the surface with plywood flooring or QSB - plates. The floor of the modular type does not require the use cement mixtures. Above polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the flooring.
• Installation of warm concrete water floors over wooden structures. Before installation, provide maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively with ready-made compositions with a short drying period.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of a warm water floor system. With the help of cutters, the machine cuts out recesses for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to function as mats. As a result, the cost of flooring components is reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the complexity of the process. But with a specialized tool, installation time can be minimized.

Laying water heated floors on a wooden floor can be done by other methods. There is the following way. In a wooden frame, a pipeline is simply laid under the logs. The plank floor is disassembled, the water circuit is laid, after which the flooring is laid back.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

The device of a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is the special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Practice has shown that the best option would be to use pipes made of polypropylene.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

Traditionally, the following types of flooring are used:

• Ceramic tiles - the advantage of ceramics is the rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use is limited to hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be poured with a screed, or covered with a cement-bonded particle board.
• Laminate and parquet board - there are two types of laying water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared strobes. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the installation method. The only drawback of the floor covering is the impossibility of heating the surface above 25°C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a water-heated floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying boards over the water circuit. The solution does not require significant financial investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally lay linoleum or laminate.

What tool is required for installation

To install the water circuit you will need:

1. Roulette.
2. Plastic pipes and fittings.
3. A set of locksmith and construction tools.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Milling machine.

Installation of a concrete water-heated floor on wooden floors will additionally require the presence of:

1. Perforator.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting rebar.
4. Building level.

To work with wooden surfaces a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill will come in handy.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

The design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to problems in operation. The appearance of condensate and leakage is critical.

The pipe laying system does not allow the following violations:

Underfloor heating for a wooden house is a smart solution. Subject to the recommendations regarding installation, you can avoid possible difficulties in the process of future operation.

Water heated floor in a wooden house and with wooden floors

Floor heating systems for last years gained immense popularity both among the owners of cottages and among the owners of private houses. A water-heated floor in a wooden house has many nuances, since concrete is rarely used to build cottages to create a strong and high-quality foundation. For the construction of such buildings and structures, more traditional materials and methods are often used.

Few people can be surprised by the presence of a concrete screed and low-temperature heating installed in it. Thanks to numerous positive reviews, such systems have often been used as an additional and even the main heating system. private rooms and the whole house as a whole. Until recently, many homeowners wondered: is it possible to install water-heated floors in wooden houses with wooden floors, because they are simply not designed for a weight of more than 200 kg per square meter. The optimal scheme of such a device appeared relatively recently.

General picture of the system

Is it possible to install such a system

Despite what some experts say, installing such equipment is not only possible, but also a very reasonable solution. In order to properly install a warm floor in a private house, it is necessary to understand some of the features of its installation and the performance characteristics of the house itself, built of wood. For example, do not heat the work surface more than 30°C. This is due to the fact that the tree does not accept high temperatures and their impact on it leads to deformation. Over time, such material will turn into dust and simply crumble.

No tie required

Therefore, the use of underfloor heating is better not in combination with central heating, but with a separate heat source. The use of a boiler implies the creation of a "pie" of underfloor heating, which will not allow the use of an additional layer of screed. In this case, the installation will have to be carried out dry, then beige directly on the beams and this is extremely inconvenient. In this case, absolutely different materials, such as:

However, when such materials are heated to 25°C or more, they begin to produce fumes containing formaldehyde.

Some manufacturers understand the need to use several heating circuits at the same time. In this case, we are talking about different intensity of surface heating. They produce a series of boilers that allow such connections for underfloor heating and heating radiators.

Types of structures intended for wooden houses

There are several ways to equip underfloor heating. If we are talking exclusively about warm water floors, then pipe installation can be carried out in the following ways:

• Using the classic method, in which pipes are laid directly into the concrete solution.

Lag tie scheme

• But the use of a dry installation method involves laying pipes directly along the logs or existing floor beams.

Laying pipes along the lags

A layer of cement screed is laid on top of such a contour, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. Before making a choice in favor of one method or another, one should study the design and main characteristics in more detail wooden houses. Concrete floor can be poured on the ground floor. It will play the role of a ceiling leading to the basement. In this case, a warm water floor should be laid directly under the screed, and not reinvent the wheel.

The top layer can be any flooring, up to ordinary wooden planks. However, this will lead to additional costs, since the absence of a concrete base will complicate the process of installing the system. But if there are wooden floors in the house, then it is recommended to use an exclusively dry installation method.

This is because:

1. The weight of the concrete base is impressive. It puts a significant strain on wooden beams which may not support the weight of such material. In addition to warm water floors in a wooden house, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the furniture.
2. If a wooden house is built correctly, then it should "breathe" on its own, performing the function of the lungs of the house. If the air is too dry or, on the contrary, very humid, then over time the material may lead. The consequences can be very significant, as this leads to cracking of the existing screed. To avoid such a result, a number of important measures should be taken that could compensate for the subsequent expansion of the contour. In addition to additional costs, this is fraught with complicated installation. If cracks have already begun in the base, it is impossible to stop them.
3. Particular attention should be paid to buildings wooden beam, which is very popular in modern construction. Often the material used is not fully dried. Over time, it will begin to dry out, which will inevitably lead to deformation or complete destruction of the concrete layer. A warm water floor will not help to avoid this problem.

Underfloor heating under beams - general image

System device

1. Boiler used for heating. If the choice fell on water floors, then it is possible to use a solid fuel, electric or gas equipped boiler. They are practical and quite comfortable. Their use implies the absence of a constant supply of fuel, which is used in wood and solid fuel boilers.
2. If it is planned to create really warm home, then it is recommended to use combined systems that will allow heating both batteries and the floor covering. Its temperature regime may differ, since the temperature in the radiators can reach up to 60°C, however, for wooden coverings, 30°C is considered the maximum. If this condition is not met, the tree will crack pretty soon.

How to make underfloor heating in a wooden house: device and installation options

Underfloor heating is an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating electric cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. To do this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal cost forces and means.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electric cable or mats with flat conductors;
• Warm floor based plastic pipes with liquid coolant.

Both heating options have earned positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is much more expensive than gas, so a heating cable for underfloor heating is best used in small rooms: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is best suited.

About the warm floor better than radiators much has been written and said.

We only note its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. The comfort temperature zone coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). During battery operation, the air under the ceiling warms up the most.
• The radiator heating system activates the movement of dust into more than underfloor heating.
• In terms of interior aesthetics, underfloor heating outperforms radiators.

Features of underfloor heating (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of flooring. If the first floor and basement are covered with reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classic" scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the warm floor;
• top coat(tile, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when wooden beams are used to cover the basement and the first floor. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

• from below, a board is knocked to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
• having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams for passing pipes;
• they lay a fine wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough one for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

• thick plywood or OSB board (15-20 mm) is laid along the beams;
• wooden bars with a section of 50x50mm are attached to the coating;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• mount a draft floor from a board, gypsum-fiber sheets (gvl), particle boards or plywood;
• lay the finish coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates are used. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory chipboards with milled recesses for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, pipe wiring is fixed quickly and easily.

In the case of using foam, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the thermal insulation. Rigid insulation in this case is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or an adhesive solution is applied, then a reinforcing mesh and tiles are laid.

The main disadvantage of prefabricated structures (foam board and milled chipboard) is the high cost. Therefore, some home masters use more cheap way channel formation. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil (this method is suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

The width of the planks is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe spacing (for example, a pipe pitch of 30 cm - a board width of 27 cm). For a smooth bending of the loops of the pipeline, semicircular grooves are cut out in the slats.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

The profiled sheet in this case acts as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the ground floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing filing of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam plastic), it is always protected from below and from above with a vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, as it allows water vapor to freely escape from it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, it is necessary to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact zone and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

For laying a finished floor, use a board that has undergone chamber drying. Do not rush to fix the finishing wood flooring to the base. Up to this point, the warm floor should work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a "dry" electric floor heating in a wooden house easier installation water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic ties-clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• Slots are made in the lags for the passage of an electric cable;
• A cable is attached to the grid with clamps;
• In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
• On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is output to an electrical outlet;
• A draft plywood floor is being laid;
• Finishing coating (laminate, parquet board) is mounted.

If the electric floor heating is covered ceramic tiles, then the installation order is reversed. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable is not in a bay, but glued to the grid, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just have to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tile.

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows you to mount infrared film floors not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then a water system is more profitable. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding heaters, the following should be said: foam for underfloor heating - not best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, the operating temperature of which can reach +70C, it ages, emitting toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise, warm air through gaps and leaks can carry its particles out of the underground space into the room. Under laying tiles, it is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material: cement-bonded, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good thermal insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.

Warm water floor in a wooden house

A wooden house, despite the archaic nature of the very idea of ​​using a tree as building material, maybe in current conditions become quite convenient and comfortable housing. This type of building is very convenient for summer cottages, and the emergence of new technologies, the construction of modular wooden houses, made wooden houses successful and practical solution housing issue. Another question is what means of communication can equip a wooden residential building. If this housing is long-term and designed for a long and permanent residence, then the heating of a residential facility comes out on top.

First of all, the strength of the structure itself confuses. Are you capable of wooden structures, including the overlap, will cope with the installation of additional heating equipment. Judging by successful practical experience, the use of water heating systems in wooden houses is real and no less effective. Installation of the boiler and heating radiators is already a completed stage. Consider the following, is a warm water floor suitable for installation in a wooden house as a complete heating system.

The value of underfloor heating for wooden residential buildings

Wooden houses being built today are not much inferior to capital stone buildings. However, if stone house, having concrete foundation and reinforced concrete floors can be equipped with any equipment and communications, with wooden buildings the situation does not look so rosy. The whole problem is that from a technological point of view, a warm water floor carries a significant structural load. Not every room has a sufficient margin of safety, thanks to which complex communications can be successfully installed.

Water heating systems work due to the circulation of the coolant through a system of pipelines laid in the floor. The mass of the entire working structure of warm water floors reaches large values ​​in working condition.

Can a wooden floor withstand such a weight? country house. Will the logs of the base of a wooden house withstand such a weight, will such floors be reliable and durable? So many questions are before you, but there are options that can quickly and effectively solve the problem. Flooring systems of warm water floors are techniques that have shown themselves well in practice. Underfloor heating, due to its advantages, makes wooden houses from ordinary temporary houses, full-fledged residential facilities.

• heating floors most optimally warm up the interior of the living space;
• in the absence of conversion, with such heating, the circulation of dust inside the room is excluded;
• a wooden house, sufficiently well insulated and equipped with warm water floors, is reliably protected from such a phenomenon as damp corners;
• underfloor heating keeps the optimal humidity regime inside the wooden house;
• with this method of heating, the likelihood of burns is completely eliminated, in contrast to the radiator heating system;
• economic indicators. Warm water floors in comparison with radiator heating by 30% reduce fuel costs associated with the preparation of the coolant;
• significant savings in internal space;
• reliability, safety and durability of heating systems based on water floors.

Speaking of wooden houses, the only drawback of such a heating system is the bulkiness of the structure itself, the duration and painstaking work. However, subject to the necessary technologies, instructions and rules, the installation of a warm floor in a wooden house will not be associated with much trouble. The result of the work itself will be the efficient operation of heating equipment and significantly improved living conditions.

For reference: the underfloor heating water circuit, made of polyethylene pipes, can be used to work with an antifreeze-based coolant. This heating option is ideal for country and country houses designed for rare visits during the cold period. A pipeline filled with antifreeze is not subject to defrosting.

Ways of laying a water floor in a wooden house

The following should be said right away. A wooden house, no matter how strong it is, a priori there are no stone bearing walls and overlays. The only stone element of a wooden building can be a foundation or basement. However modern technologies small housing construction involves the minimum use of concrete work in the process of building a residential facility.

On a note: block houses are assembled within 2-3 days. All structural elements, including internal partitions and ceilings, are designed for a certain load. It is allowed only over time to equip the stone foundation, thereby giving wooden building the necessary strength, reliability and capital.

• according to the modular scheme;
• on a rack basis.

Accordingly, both options can be applied during the construction of panel and block houses. Water pipes are laid in the space between the lags or on the rough floor surface resting on the logs. Modular and rack laying schemes have their own design and technological differences.

In the first case, ready-made wooden modules are used to lay the water circuit loop. In the second option, the heating pipes are mounted in the space between the boards and slats. The main feature when installing the first and second options is that you create a subfloor in which heating pipes are installed. On top of the prefabricated structure, metal heat exchange plates are laid, on which the finishing floor covering is already placed.

On a note: when using ceramic tiles or linoleum, the rough surface, together with pipes and metal plates, is additionally covered with an insulating layer of DSP boards. Such a measure is caused by the need to ensure uniform distribution of the load over the entire floor surface, to create conditions for uniform heat transfer between the water circuits and the finish coating.

Before starting work on the installation of heating floors, you will need to complete a number of mandatory steps, including the development of a heating system project and a survey structural elements building. Such a precaution is associated with the technological features of wooden buildings. Eg:

• a wooden building already shrinks within the first year. Approximately up to 5%. This remark must be taken into account when equipping underfloor heating during the construction of a wooden house;
• wood behaves differently in different climates. Excessive dryness or vice versa, high humidity causes cracking of wooden structures, the formation of rot and mold. Therefore, such houses should be built taking into account all the subtleties and nuances that protect wooden structures from negative atmospheric effects.

As for the design of the heating scheme, here one should take into account the heated area, the degree of thermal insulation of residential premises and, accordingly, climatic conditions region. Neglecting these aspects, as a result of painstaking and laborious work, you can get little effective system heating, underfloor heating, which will be of little use.

On a note: The thermal efficiency of a residential building is one of the defining elements of a heating system. With competent actions, it is possible to achieve an increase in the efficiency of heating equipment by 15-20%. Insulation of wall panels, window and doorways required condition for high-quality heating of the house.

TO preparatory work prior to the installation of heating floors, the assessment of the base also applies. Not every building has the necessary technological parameters, thanks to which you can immediately begin to equip the heating system. Wooden base boards, logs should lie correctly, have a “healthy” structure. Rotten areas or damaged whole fragments must be replaced with new products. An optimal distance of 60 cm is allowed between the lags. Large gaps existing between the boards, over 2 mm, are eliminated by laying heat-insulating material.

For reference: if it is visually possible to determine that the wooden flooring or structural elements have exhausted themselves, it is better to dismantle them and create a new structure - the base.

When examining the foundation, pay attention to the following factors:

• does the wind “walk” under the floor;
• whether the logs lie evenly or at a great distance from each other;
• old boards before installation are best processed planer by removing a layer of old and corroded wood;
• the entire deck surface must be level. The presence of irregularities, at least up to 2 mm, is allowed.

Instructions for installing underfloor heating in wooden buildings

After preparing the base, the main task is to create the necessary floor insulation in a wooden house. Properly made insulation retain heat and direct it upwards, thereby heating the floor covering. Otherwise, you will be heating the basement or heating the ground in your garden.

A rough coating or raised floor is made in order to lay a layer of thermal insulation on it. Having nailed sheets of plywood or chipboard to the lags from below, which are covered with steam and heat-insulating film. Further, the entire internal space between the lags is filled with foam or mineral wool. Usually the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 100 mm. The figure clearly shows the options for mounting a water floor on a wooden structure.

Using a modular set-up scheme, you will spend much more time, but your floor will be an order of magnitude harder and stronger. You choose which scheme to use, modular or rack. And in the first and second cases, everything is decided by the level of comfort that you expect when equipping the heating system in a particular room.

The modular type of laying allows you to properly lay the water circuit, observing the required pipe pitch and layout scheme. In addition, the metal plates will be securely fixed, there is no need to lay an additional leveling layer before laying the finish coat. The modules are very convenient when equipping indoor water floors laid with a snake. A similar scheme for laying the heating pipeline is also suitable for rack type.

Important! You should know that the metal plates are laid transversely to the grooves in which the water pipe is laid.

Conclusion

As in all cases, laying underfloor heating in this case is not complete without a layer of hydro and thermal insulation. Underfloor heating can be done using metal-plastic, copper and polyethylene pipes. It is important to know what will go where. For the first floor, you can do copper pipes, however, their cost is quite high and high temperature coolant, there is a high probability of damage to the integrity of the insulating layer.

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in a wooden house

The main criteria for installing underfloor heating are functionality, economic expediency, Fire safety. All these requirements are met by a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

The water floor can be the main and / or the only source of heat and additional (together with batteries). The device of a water-heated floor in a wooden house quickly pays for itself: there are practically no operating costs (unlike electric floors).

The risk of fire is also less than that of an electric floor. A water source of fire can only be a boiler. But it is installed in an open way and equipped with control devices.

Elements and device of the system

1. Heating boiler (gas, electric, solid fuel, etc.). The most economical heating is a gas boiler. It is also the most convenient: it is not required to constantly replenish fuel reserves in the furnace, unlike solid fuel boilers or wood-burning stoves.

If the house is supposed combined heating(batteries + floor), you need to arrange two heating circuits. Temperature regime different for radiators and floors: in radiators it can be 60 degrees or more, and a water-heated floor in a wooden house with wooden floors functions at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. Otherwise, the wood will start to crack.

2. Water from the boiler to the pipes flows through the distribution manifold with control valves. If the dimensions of the house and the pipeline are small, you can limit yourself to manual adjustments. With a large length of pipes and a large number of individual circuits, a main collector with automatic adjustment is installed.

3. A circulation pump for forced water supply and a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the system.

4. Temperature controller with temperature sensor.

5. Pipes. Optimally - metal-plastic: metal pipes(copper, stainless steel) are more expensive, and installation is more difficult, because. you will need to make a lot of welds. The metal-plastic floor is sold in a bay, it only needs to be unwound in accordance with the diagram.

An alternative to metal-plastic is polypropylene. Also sold in coils. Soldering, if necessary, is carried out with an iron for polypropylene.

The optimal thickness of the pipe is 1.6-2 centimeters.

Mounting methods

With screed. In a wooden house, this method is possible when installing the floor on the ground.

If there is a log or a subfloor, a water-heated floor is installed in a wooden house without a screed, because. the wooden parts will not support the weight of the mortar.

When installing without a screed, sheets of chipboard, OSB or waterproof plywood are used as the basis for the flooring. Installation is possible in a modular or rack way.

The modular method uses ready-made particle boards with locks for fastening between themselves and milled grooves for laying pipes.

With the rack method, the stacker forms the channels for the pipes himself.

Another way of mounting without a screed is using polystyrene mats. Mats are slabs of PPS insulation with already equipped channels for pipes.

During installation, three layers of the cake are needed: waterproofing, insulation, heat-reflecting foil (or metal plates). These layers prevent heat from escaping into the ground or downstairs.

Preparing for installation

When mounting on the ground, a rough screed is poured at the preliminary stage. A sand and gravel cushion is poured, waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) is placed on it, the mortar is poured, leveled and the concrete is set.

When installing without a screed, the floor covering is removed. If the floor is in order and there is a layer of insulation under it, with which everything is also in order, installation can begin.

If the subfloor is rotten, there is no insulation between the lags - the boards are removed. If necessary, dismantle the logs.

1. Lay a waterproofing film.
2. Insulation plates are installed between the lags tightly by surprise.
3. On top - a vapor barrier film with low vapor permeability or polyethylene laminated with foil. The foil film is placed on top with a reflective surface, the vapor barrier film is placed on the rough side (outlet).
4. From above, either chipboard sheets with ready-made grooves for pipes are installed, or moisture-resistant plywood is laid, which will be the basis for mounting polystyrene foam mats.

Read what is a support-columnar foundation.

Installation

Attention: installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is carried out in all rooms separately. One section of the floor should be no more than 40 square meters. For rooms with a larger area, two sections are made.

Foundation laying

Chipboard modules are also laid according to the scheme, connected with tongue-and-groove locks. Pipes are laid in the channels.

With the rack method, chipboard slats about three centimeters high are attached to the laid plywood (plates) in two centimeter increments. It is necessary to ensure that the grooves in the places where the pipe turns are rounded.

After mounting the base, a reflective foil layer is placed. Other options: lay heat-reflecting plates.

Pipe laying

There are two schemes for laying the working circuit: spiral and snake. The snake is led in zigzags from one wall to another, opposite. At this wall, the floor will be colder, because. as you move along the circuit, the coolant cools down.

The spiral provides uniform heating over the entire area: the first (hottest) coil is placed along the cold walls, and the cooled area is located in the center of the room, where it is warmer. From the center, the pipe is led in the opposite direction, the same turns are repeated in parallel. At the finish, they are connected to the return manifold.

A gap of at least seven centimeters should be left between the outer coil of the pipe and the walls.

Before installing the finish coat, the system must be tested for leaks: connected to a manifold, filled with water and kept for about a day.

The pipes are fastened with narrow aluminum plates laid across the groove.

If a laminate is used as a finishing cladding, a substrate is usually placed on a chipboard base. On a polystyrene base, a laminate can be laid without a substrate.

Floor installation with screed

For a finishing screed, you can use a mixture based on M-300 cement. Plasticizers and polypropylene fiber are added to the solution. Another option is to buy ready-made screed mix.

1. Lay a waterproofing layer on the rough screed.
2. Lay damper tape along all walls at the joints with the floor. If at least one wall is longer than eight meters, the tape is additionally placed in the middle of the room. This is a must, because when heated, the thermal expansion of concrete begins. In the absence of a damper, the floor will open.
3. Install heater. An approximate layer is 10 cm, the exact one depends on the heat calculation and on the characteristics of the material (density, thermal conductivity).
4. Lay reinforcing mesh.
5. The pipe is laid in turns with a step of 15-30 cm. They are attached to the grid cells with plastic clamps with a step of thirty centimeters.
6. Test the system for leaks and performance.
7. Pour the screed 5-7 centimeters. If the floor is subject to high loads, another reinforcing mesh is placed in the screed during the pouring process. Wait for the concrete to harden (about a month).
8. Lay the finish coat: laminate with or without a substrate, ceramic tiles.

Planed boards can be used instead of laminate as wood flooring, but their thermal conductivity is lower than laminates for underfloor heating.

You can not lay a parquet board, it will quickly dry out. In addition, in the production of parquet and parquet board chemical compositions are often used that reduce the environmental friendliness of the coating: when heated, it will release toxic volatile substances.

Boards should be laid with gaps to compensate for thermal expansion.

conclusions

1. You can install a water-heated floor in a wooden house with your own hands under a screed only when laying on the ground. When installing above the basement, on the second or third floor, the flooring method is used on top of the subfloor.
2. For underfloor heating and radiator heating, independent circuits are needed.
3. The number of underfloor heating sections depends on the number of heated rooms and the area of ​​each of them.
4. Under the pipes there should be a cake of waterproofing, insulation and a heat-reflecting layer.

Video about the device of a water heated floor in a wooden house.

Long burning furnace

Underfloor heating is one of the most popular heating methods today, used both independently and together with other systems. The laying technology has been studied and perfected, but it is used mainly on the first floors due to the heavy weight of the cement screed, traditionally used to fill the highway. In order to fearlessly lay warm floors on wooden floors, without fear that the base will “play”, the Finns came up with an original technology. And FORUMHOUSE users adapted it to their needs and capabilities. Our craftsmen willingly tell everyone how to lay water-heated floors in a private house on wooden logs.

• Variations on the original theme
• System installation

Dry screed: lightweight underfloor heating

Dry screed - a technology by which a warm floor on logs is laid without pouring cement mortar. In a conventional system, the screed acts not only as a retainer, but also as a conductor - due to its high thermal conductivity, it effectively transfers heat upwards. But due to the large weight, it cannot be used on lags. By Finnish technology in a dry screed, this function is performed drywall sheets in three layers - as a base, between pipe loops, as the completion of the "pie". This makes the design easier. The voids between the pipes and sheets are covered with tile adhesive, the top layer is attached to it.

The design turns out to be lightweight, the load on the floors is within the normal range, and even in the event of a leak, the line can really be repaired.

Do-it-yourself water floors in a wooden house.

Variations on a theme

In our country, on the basis of Finnish technology, which facilitates the construction and makes it possible to abandon the monolithic casting, its variations appeared - the principle remained, but the materials were added:

• Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) - compared to gypsum boards, they are denser, stronger in bending and deformation, contain cellulose fibers and other additives that increase them specifications. For wet rooms, a moisture-resistant variety (GVLV) is used;

Tishin FORUMHOUSE Member

In such a floor, instead of drywall, it is better to use gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL). I myself am now considering a dry screed for implementation in my house, only I will replace the bottom layer with OSB. I will assemble the middle part from two layers of GVL.

• Chipboard, OSB (OSB), plywood - in terms of heat transfer, this design turns out worse, since wood and its derivatives act as an insulator. Ready-made sets of underfloor heating are sold on a dry screed made of chipboard sheets, with grooves selected for the hinges, but not everyone can handle their cost.

boatmaster Member FORUMHOUSE

Logs, with a step of 60 cm, plus insulation - 35 cm, OSB base, then a 20 mm pipe, plus a 5 mm clip, it turns out 25 mm, three layers of GVLV between pipes 12x3 = 26 mm.

• Cement particle board (DSP);
• EPPS - pipes are laid directly into the insulation, and the voids are covered with glue. To increase the heat transfer of the elements, foil or similar material is used;

The thickness of the sheets for the middle layer with the main is selected based on the diameter of the pipe, so that after filling with glue a flat surface is obtained, and the final layer does not put pressure on the pipe. Alternatively, two sheets are glued together if the thickness of one is not enough.

Forum users are actively organizing their underfloor heating systems on hardwood floors.

Serg177 Member of FORUMHOUSE

If something happens to the pipe (today, tomorrow or in 25 years), you won't have to break the coupler. I will buy 50 sheets of plywood for 200 m², 18 mm thick, dissolve it into strips, at intervals - a 16 mm pipe, and close 200 sheets of ten sheets and laminate on top.

One of the options for a do-it-yourself dry screed device is laying pipes in special aluminum plates with grooves. They tightly fit the pipes and increase heat transfer. The disadvantage of this configuration is the high cost of these metal gaskets, their use increases the cost of the entire system.

Vladimir Tallinn Member of FORUMHOUSE

There are not enough aluminum special sheets that are placed under the pipe and bring heat to the top. I have standing, they “hug” the pipe, the size is about 30 cm per meter, the groove for the pipe with rare spikes so that the pipe holds.

Sheets on a gypsum base are one of the most popular materials, as they are optimal in all respects.

• Acceptably worth;
• Easily sawn into segments;
• Eco-friendly (does not contain synthetic binders like boards with wood fillers) and are suitable for household work;
• non-combustible;

System installation

According to the lags based on Finnish technology, it assumes a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the materials used in the work, be it GKL, GVL (V) or other plates.

evraz Member of FORUMHOUSE

Similar technologies, where pipes or a heating cable are smeared with a solution in the GVL grooves and covered with the top layer of GVL, are painted by many manufacturers of underfloor heating systems.

Water heated floor on logs in a wooden house.

Warming

The system must transfer heat upwards, and not pass it into the ceiling, which will lead to increased heating of the carrier and a decrease in efficiency. A vapor barrier is laid between the lags, on top - a layer of insulation (mineral wool, EPS), covered with a layer of vapor barrier. The insulation will protect both the wood and the insulation from condensation, provided that it is not just a plastic film. Under a conventional film, condensation will form in even greater quantities.

Base

It is necessary to observe the optimal distance between the lags when the system is being mounted - 60 cm, in this case it is not necessary to create an additional crate to distribute the load, and the sheets form a monolithic structure. Sheets are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.

Highway

The footage and diameter of the pipe depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, heat loss, and the power of the equipment used to heat the coolant. The most demanded range is 16-20 mm in diameter. The pipe pitch is also individual in each case, but on average - 100 mm, more often at the edges. The pipe is fastened with special metal or plastic brackets or do-it-yourself clamps.

Warm water floors, wooden floors.

Laying

The space between the contours of the pipes is filled with segments cut from sheets, grooves should remain around the pipes for filling with glue. Optimal size groove - 3 pipe diameters, this is enough for maximum heat removal. The segments are screwed with self-tapping screws, in increments of 10 - 15 cm, the length of the fastener should be enough to fix it in the logs.

filling

To fill the grooves, tile glue is most often used, a cement-sand mixture can be used, but plasticizers must be used when mixing. In order to increase adhesion, and the final layer of the “pie” is more firmly connected to the intermediate one, it is recommended, after filling the joints with pipes, to go over the entire surface with the adhesive mixture “on the peel”. This is advice from a user under the nickname Vitaon, he is professionally engaged in the installation of such systems and shared his trick with the members of the forum.

Vitaon Member of FORUMHOUSE

Before the final layer, the surface consists of alternating strips of dry plasterboard and ditches filled with adhesive. Immediately before gluing, it is necessary to cover the entire surface with putty, a wide spatula and a thin layer of glue - a homogeneous base will be obtained. On top, apply glue under the final layer. With this method, adhesion is greatly increased.

Finished floor

A water floor on wooden logs allows you to practically use it in a private house, only cheap linoleum is a contraindication - it will “smell” noticeably with constant heating. The best option is ceramic tile or laminate flooring. In the case of a laminate, a substrate does not fit under it, due to its thermal insulation properties.

Conclusion

A warm floor with a dry screed using Finnish technology is a basic option that can be tailored to specific conditions and needs. All the subtleties and nuances are in the subject. The article selects the most economical way to heat the device. And in the video about engineering heating equipment - advice from the master on choosing.

For country house, wooden bath floor heating system will become convenient and practical. Underfloor heating, water, the contour of which must be hidden in the underground, is able to efficiently and efficiently heat quite spacious living quarters. This is especially convenient for you to do to improve the habitability of your dacha, to create more comfortable conditions in the bathhouse.

It is not possible to solve such an engineering and technical problem by laying water pipes under a concrete screed. Here affects technological features the very structure and the very nature of the technology. Not every wooden floor or logs underlying the building can withstand the huge additional load in the form of a monolithic slab. The way out of this situation is to make warm floors, water, laid on a wooden floor.

Main idea and practical solution

For quite a long time, it was considered that mounting water heating circuits directly on wooden floors was not a very good idea. Mainly, the reason for this opinion lay in the characteristics of the building material. Construction timber, despite a lot of technological advantages, is highly susceptible to the effect of thermal deformation. In addition, excessive exposure to moisture also adversely affects the wood. The lightness of wooden structures and insulating properties were considered disadvantages when it came to the installation of more complex thermal and hydraulic structures in the building.

Despite the obvious obstacles, attempts to find a reasonable way out of this situation have led to the emergence of new technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden floor, create heating water systems in wooden buildings. The main thing is to choose the right Consumables and adhere to certain technology.

To date, there are two types of underfloor heating used in residential buildings as a heating element. We will not talk about the electrical circuit, since it has not found its development in combination with wooden structures. Let's pay attention to the water heating system - in which hot water runs through the pipes of the heating circuit.

What technical difficulties await us in this case? The principle of operation that underlies this heating system is well known and understood. It makes no difference whether the water circuit lies in a concrete screed, or skillfully hidden in a wooden floor. Water circulating through the pipeline heats the surface of the floor, thereby giving off precious heat to the interior of the heated room.

On a note: skeptics can make a remark - the tree does not conduct heat well, in addition, the wooden structure itself can be deformed as a result of heating. There is something to be said for these comments. The use of special heat-conducting plates allows you to ensure that the thermal energy will go in a strictly vertical direction, heating the floor.

Here we should say a few words about the fact that from a technical point of view, laying heating pipes on a wooden floor is not difficult. If at the initial stage you have a clear idea of ​​​​what your underfloor heating should be, what type of flooring you will have, it is quite possible to make water floor heating.

Key points

We have already said that it is not always possible to solve the problem simply as you would like. For capital stone structures with concrete floors, a concrete screed for underfloor heating is very convenient. However, in most cases, wooden residential buildings, in which wooden floors are not able to withstand an additional weight of 10-15 tons. A tree, even if you are dealing with a beam system of a set, cannot withstand such a load. It does not make sense to strengthen the supporting structures during the construction of a country house or a bathhouse. This will lead to an increase in cost and to the weight of the entire structure.

For reference: any water. This element is mandatory for underfloor heating of any type. Without underlayment and one floor covering will not have sufficient support.

The key point in this situation is new technology, thanks to which it was possible not only to significantly reduce the weight of the entire structure of the heating system, but also to ensure that heat began to be transferred directly flooring. The substrate can be successfully covered with linoleum or carpet. The emergence of new practical and high-tech materials allows you to create an entire heating system based on wooden floors in a matter of days. When working with a concrete screed, you will have to strictly adhere to the technology and wait 25-28 days until the screed reaches its maturity.

Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Pre-insulation

Before proceeding with the design of the "water heated floor" heating system, it is necessary to examine wooden structures, ceilings, logs and other load-bearing elements. The wooden base, consisting of boards, must be solid. The cracks existing between the boards are carefully sealed with heat-insulating materials. The floor in a wooden house is usually mounted on logs, so it is important to study their condition and location.

Condition assessment includes:

• visual inspection of the state of the surface of wooden boards;
• feeling and scraping the surface of wooden boards to assess the structure of the wood;
• elimination of cracked and sagging boards;
• alignment of lags in places of deflection;
• adding lags if the distance between existing elements is too large.

For reference: if the condition of the wooden floor is unsatisfactory (old cracked or rotten boards), it is better to dismantle such a base. The joists that hold the boards are too far apart. For a warm floor, the logs must be at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

There is an installation option when a warm floor is laid on wooden logs. Those. in other words, the whole structure will be on top load-bearing structures, representing an independent structure.

Old boards that do not have a marketable appearance must be treated with a jointer to make the surface of the material even and uniform. The maximum allowable height irregularities for a wooden floor are no more than 2 mm. Such care and precision wooden floor necessary due to the fact that in this system there is no substrate.

Having finished with the assessment of the condition and preparation of the wooden floor, you should proceed to the insulation of the structure. Such a preliminary procedure is necessary due to the fact that all the heat radiated by the water circuit should not go down into the underground, but linger and go up.

Reinstall the lags at an acceptable distance, install the raised floor. On the logs, plywood or used boards are nailed from below. This will serve as the basis for the thermal insulation material to be laid. Steam and heat-shielding film should be laid on the prepared base. In the openings between the lags, a heater is laid on the film, the thickness of which should not exceed 100 mm. On top of the insulation, a heat-insulating film is again fixed. Only after all this, you can start laying the heating water circuit.

On a note: It is strongly not recommended to use ordinary polyethylene film as thermal insulation. Neglect of technology will lead to the fact that condensate will begin to accumulate in the subfield. Due to the accumulation of moisture, the insulation may soon become unusable.

The heater in this situation can be mineral wool, the density of which is 35-40 kg / 3.

Installation of the floorboard and methods of laying heating pipes

At this stage, it is necessary to take into account technological subtleties. Of course, this will take a little more time, but in the future the work will already be carried out much faster. Should be said right away. The layout of the water heating circuit in this case is a "snake". Installation of the pipeline according to the "spiral" or "snail" scheme is unacceptable for this technology.

On the prepared base, we begin laying boards that have a special configuration, equipped with special grooves. Between the boards there should be grooves measuring 20x20 mm. The edges of the boards are turned in a semicircle for a convenient inversion of the water pipe. Having made all the necessary preparations, you can lay all the boards on the prepared base. The presence of grooves and the semicircular edges of the boards are the route for laying the water circuit. This to some extent facilitates the task in the future when installing the underfloor heating pipeline directly.

Ready-made grooves for mounting water under wooden floors are shown in the photo.

Thanks to the grooves, laying the heating circuit is easy and fast. Before working with the pipe, foil is unwound over the grooves. After that, a pipe is laid in the grooves, the diameter of which should not exceed 16 mm. In order to get maximum heat transfer, the pipe is wrapped in foil, attaching its edges with staples to wooden boards.

On top of the pipe, they are attached to the boards with metal plates. According to this scheme, the entire water pipe is laid, thereby covering the entire floor area.

On the preliminary plan of the room, marks are made where the control equipment (collector, manifold cabinet) will be installed.

Important! Pipes should be laid taking into account a certain step. For the central regions of the country, where the average monthly temperature in winter is -15, -20 0 C, optimal step for laying is 150-300 mm.

It is better to use a stainless corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.

The final stage. Connection to autonomous heating system

After you have laid the water circuit, you can start connecting it. For manual control, the connection is simply made to the main pipeline using a conventional tap. If you want to make the system adjustable, warm water floors under the wooden floor are equipped with mixing units and a collector. In this case, you get a convenient, efficient and adjustable heating system.

For those who want to improvise should remember! Under no circumstances should underfloor heating be connected to a central heating main. Connecting additional heating devices, including underfloor heating, to a centralized heating system and hot water supply is not legal.

Based on this, it is impractical and risky to install a water floor in a city apartment. For a private house or for a summer residence, this option is quite acceptable and effective. After connection, the water circuits must be pressure tested. The procedure is mandatory and allows you to identify places of coolant leakage, identify zones of low heating. Only after that you can start working with flooring.

Finish. Floor covering flooring

The cover you choose can be anything. To date, the trading network has a huge selection of the most various materials. You will have to choose not so much for manufacturability as for cost. If you prefer to use laminate, then you will need some time for this. The costs will not be so high in this case.

On a note: any material has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity, so your level of comfort and heating efficiency depend on it.

Wood has a low thermal conductivity compared to ceramic tiles. Before starting with the lags, thermal calculations should be made to give an idea of ​​the amount of heat that will be on the surface. By doing everything correctly and in accordance with the technology, you can independently make an effective heating system in residential premises.