Finishing a balcony or loggia with drywall with your own hands - step by step instructions with photos and descriptions. Sheathing the balcony with plasterboard Installation of plasterboard sheets

Ease of installation, safety and durability are the main advantages of drywall. This building material is suitable for sheathing internal surfaces. Finishing the balcony with drywall is practical, has high aesthetic characteristics, you can do it yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages

Drywall is popular with professional builders and beginners alike. It is easy to use, suitable for decoration different surfaces and has a large number positive properties. The material consists of a solid panel glued on both sides with construction paper.

Distinctive features of drywall:

• Light weight. The panels are easy to transport due to their compactness. Also, this property simplifies the installation of parts.
• Environmental friendliness. The absence of harmful emissions makes the material safe for human health.
• Ease of processing. Drywall is easy to cut, so you can get parts of any size. This is especially important when sheathing rooms with a non-standard area.
• Fire resistance. The material is impact resistant high temperatures almost does not burn.
• Thermal insulation. This feature allows you to create a comfortable microclimate on the balcony and maintain a comfortable temperature for a person.
• Soundproofing. On the balcony, sheathed with drywall, it will be quiet, it will not hear noise from the street and from the apartment.
• Affordable price. Drywall costs less than panels from natural wood, at the same time it is of high quality and has a decent appearance.

Despite the high functionality, the material has a number of disadvantages. Drywall is fragile and can be damaged by external mechanical stress, so care must be taken when transporting and storing panels. It easily absorbs moisture, not very well suited for use in places with high humidity. To eliminate this minute, it is recommended to leave the drywall in place before repairing. open form for several days.

Kinds

Modern drywall has improved performance. Depending on its properties, there are several types of materials used for finishing different rooms.

• Ordinary. Cheap material that does not have additional properties. It usually has a neutral color scheme and is used when sheathing rooms with a stable temperature regime and low humidity.
• Fire resistant. The composition of drywall includes flame retardants, making the material less combustible. These panels meet the requirements fire safety and are suitable for decorating almost any room.
• Moisture resistant. Most suitable option for the balcony due to precipitation and temperature fluctuations. The sheets are covered with a special coating that absorbs moisture, and antifungal solutions are also applied to them to prevent mold.

The panels differ from each other in dimensions, which is also taken into account when buying building materials. Before proceeding with the repair, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the required number of drywall sheets. To do this, you need to know in advance the dimensions of the sheets, which can be clarified on the manufacturers website or directly in the store.

Required Tools

Repair work do not require professional knowledge, and standard equipment is sufficient for their implementation. Its preparation or acquisition is one of the stages of preparation for repair. What tools are needed:

• Perforator. Used for direct mounting of panels.
• Drill, screwdriver. Needed when installing self-tapping screws, dowels and other fasteners.
• Construction level, plumb. They are used to align the panels relative to each other and the surfaces located on the balcony.
• Putty knife. Required for applying putty on walls.
• Roulette and pencil. They are taken during the measurement work.

In addition to the listed equipment, you must purchase the drywall itself and the following materials:

• Insulation - to prepare surfaces for installation.
• Hydro and vapor barrier. Required for insulation.
• profiles. Needed to install the crate.
• Dowels, self-tapping screws. Fasteners are required at all stages of work.
• Primer, putty. They are used to process joints between foam sheets.
• Hacksaw for wood and metal. If necessary, it can be replaced with a grinder. It is required for processing the details of the crate.

If additional processing of materials is required, paint is purchased separately. It is suitable both for a radical change in the color of drywall, and for emphasizing the natural shade of the panels. At the stage of final finishing, impregnations are applied to protect against high humidity and high temperatures.

Preparatory stages

Finishing the balcony with drywall is done only after the room is glazed, otherwise the panels will not hold and may be deformed due to precipitation or excessively high temperatures. Here are some other steps to prepare:

1. Before sheathing, all objects are removed from the loggia, the walls are rid of traces of the old finish.
2. Further, it is recommended to install steam and moisture protection. For this purpose, foil or polyethylene film is suitable, acting as a barrier. In addition, special membranes can be used.
3. Insulation is necessary not only to maintain a comfortable microclimate and constant temperature, but also to extend the life of the panels. Therefore, this procedure is also required before sheathing.

It should be borne in mind that you need to process all surfaces on the balcony: not only walls, but also the floor and ceiling. The insulation must be resistant to rot, moisture and pathogenic microorganisms.

Materials used for warming the loggia:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene.

The thickness of the material must be at least 50 mm so that there is no draft on the balcony. When operating in difficult climatic conditions the insulation is additionally processed to increase resistance to high and low temperatures. It is laid between the elements of the crate, previously covered with foil for waterproofing. For installation, a construction stapler is used.

Sheathing the balcony with drywall requires the installation of a crate on which the panels will be attached. The frame is made of horizontal and vertical profiles, which are both wooden and metal. The latter are characterized by increased strength and ease of installation, therefore they are used more often.

When using wood, the bars are additionally processed.

Stages of installation of the crate:

1. Creating a drawing and marking the walls in accordance with it. Thanks to this, the profiles will be located evenly, which means they will last longer.
2. Installation of support profiles. The first bars are installed near the floor, the following elements are aligned along them.
3. Installation of parts in accordance with the markup. To make them as even as possible, it is recommended to use the building level.
4. Fastener parts. For these purposes, dowels or self-tapping screws are used, they are installed every 25 cm.
5. Installation of cross jumpers. They are made from rack profiles and are positioned taking into account the workload of the walls. If it is necessary that the crate can withstand a lot of weight, the jumpers are fixed as often as possible.

Mounting hangers will make the frame more durable and rigid. A heater can be located between the cells of the crate; it is recommended to arrange a double crate at the site of future joints. At the next stage, drywall is directly attached to the crate.

In the next video, we suggest that you visually view all the above steps using the example of a ceiling crate.

How to sheathe with your own hands: a sequence of work

Sheathing starts from the ceiling, after which they move to the walls. First of all, you need to cut drywall panels of the right size, if necessary, leave room for lighting.

Simplicity of puttying of joints between panels is ensured by beveled edges - chamfers. If it is not, the surfaces are prepared independently.

The first plasterboard panels are installed on the ceiling. It is most convenient to use self-tapping screws as fasteners - their hats are recommended to be drowned inside the material. The distance between the elements is 20-25 cm, for convenience, before work, marks are made for future holes. The remaining panels are installed in the same way. If necessary, the last details are cut.

What is considered when sheathing a balcony:

• Wiring and screws must not touch.
• Metal framing is most effective in humid climates.
• wooden bars polished, covered with protective solutions.
• Fasteners must not be twisted very tightly: the material is fragile and can be deformed.
• When installing ceiling profiles at the edges and in the middle, it is recommended to use anchors.

If you are in doubt whether it is worth sheathing the balcony with drywall (gypsum plasterboard), and at the same time insulating it, read this article. She will help you make a choice. After all, a balcony or loggia trimmed with such material, firstly, looks much more aesthetically pleasing. And secondly, a layer of thermal insulation hidden behind the cladding will allow you to get a room where you can have a good time in any weather and season.

Pros and cons of drywall

Advantages:

• Finishing balconies and loggias with plasterboard is carried out quickly.
• Plasterboard cladding makes bearing structures stronger, more durable.
• GKL is a fire-resistant material (thanks to gypsum), which in the event of a fire will prevent the spread of fire.
• This is budget stuff.
• Sheathing a loggia or balcony with drywall allows you to insulate it.
• GKL can be used for cladding or arranging walls, ceilings, and also as partitions. With it, you can close large defects, or you can get different design forms.
• Sheathing the balcony with drywall allows you to mount spectacular built-in lighting.

Flaws:

• As a rule, GKL is not waterproof. For installation in bathrooms, basements, open balconies or other areas with high humidity, it may adversely affect its condition. And wet material is affected by mold. After getting wet, the material must be changed.
• GKL can be easily damaged, as it is not resistant to impact. Thus, you may have problems with holes, damaged corners, peeling tapes, cracked joints.
• Although the drywall is quite easy to install, the craftsmen must be experienced, because the finishing of the loggias with drywall must be done correctly, otherwise you will have connection problems.

When installed, this material creates a lot of dust that can easily spread throughout the house. The disadvantages of the GKL are actually quite solvable problems.

Types of drywall

1. Ordinary. It is white on one side and brown on the other. This is probably the most economical type of drywall, repair and finishing with such drywall is carried out everywhere. Available in thicknesses from 3/8 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm). This is the most common type, usually sold in 1.2 by 2.4 m (3 square meters) panels.
2. Green (Moisture resistant). It has a green coating, which makes it more resistant to moisture. It is somewhat more expensive than the usual GKL. Used in wet areas: in the walls of bathrooms, basements, kitchens, laundries, utility rooms. But it is not waterproof, so it is not suitable for places where it will be in direct contact with water.
3. Blue (Moisture resistant). It is used for wood cladding, because. has special absorbent properties, and wood finishing requires fewer steps. It is highly resistant to water and mildew. Worked great in bathrooms and other wet areas. In addition, this type significantly reduces noise, and also produces little dust when working with it. This is an excellent choice for loggias and balconies.
4. Paperless. Coated with fiberglass rather than paper, which protects the material from rot and provides excellent mold resistance. The structure is a little more complex than regular drywall, but it is easier to cut. Remember that you need to protect yourself when working with fiberglass materials.
5. Violet. This is an improved moisture-resistant material that has the same advantages as conventional gypsum board, but with superior moisture and mildew resistance. It can be installed on all walls along with the ceiling. Suitable for areas where increased resistance to moisture and mold is required. If the surface will be in contact with water, this is the material to use.
6. Type X. This is the so-called fire-resistant drywall. Multiple layers can be used to achieve higher fire resistance. Finishing the loggia with such drywall will allow you to get a room where you can smoke without fear. But cutting and processing such a GKL is more difficult than a conventional panel. It is commonly used in garages where special fire regulations are required.
7. Soundproof. It is a laminated material from a mixture wood fibers, gypsum and polymers that increase STC (Sound Transmission Class). This material is denser than regular drywall, so it can be a little more difficult to work with than other types. Finishing the loggia with such drywall with insulation will allow you to get a quiet, comfortable room.

Tools and materials for installation

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materials

1. Plasterboard panels.
2. To fill the gaps between the sheets - a special mixture (most often it is acrylic putty).
3. Paper or fiberglass (serpyanka) tape for processing joints.
4. Plasterboard profiles.
5. Corner made of metal or paper, for drawing.
6. Internal, external corners from metal profiles.
7. Nails, drywall screws.
8. Grinding mesh or sandpaper.

Tools

1. Knife for cutting plates.
2. Nozzle for a drill for cutting holes in sheets.
3. Metal scissors.
4. Spatulas 13 (15) and 25 cm wide for finishing seams.
5. Trowel angular plasterboard.
6. Container for putty.
7. Drywall lift, T-jack, or Dtrywall T-square. Used for lifting and then holding drywall sheets on the ceiling.
8. Electric screw gun, or screwdriver.
9. Drill.
10. Mount damper. Used to prevent twisting of screws.
11. Measuring tape (roulette).
12. Sanding block.
13. Vacuum cleaner.
14. Mop.
15. Protective glasses.
16. Hammer.
17. Marking pencil.

Do-it-yourself installation technology

It begins with the fact that the old interior decoration on the balcony is completely dismantled, if necessary, the surfaces are protected by a grinder. Identified cracks and recesses should be plastered so that the wind does not blow into them. The floor of the balcony must be waterproofed, this can be done with ordinary roofing felt or mastic. Further, all drywall surfaces on the balcony are treated with an antiseptic primer to prevent the development of mold. After the primer dries, the balcony is insulated with foam plastic or foam plastic. If the balcony is closed, you can use glass wool. Balcony insulation with one drywall is ineffective. After sealing the seams of the insulation with mounting foam or special glue, foil insulation is mounted on it. After all these works, you can proceed to the device of the crate.

Lathing design

The first step is to install a UD profile on the ceiling. It is attached to the dowels, then the position of the UD profile on the floor is marked strictly vertically under it along the plumb line. The ceiling and floor profiles are screwed with screws in increments of 20-30 cm. Then guide profiles are installed in the corners of the balcony, ideally using a laser building level. The elements are connected by cutters.

Then the rack profiles are set in increments of no more than 60 cm. They are attached to the ceiling and floor rails with self-tapping screws. The guides are attached to the wall with perforated brackets in increments of 40-50 cm. The last stage of the crate is the installation of transverse elements in increments of 40 cm. cross fittings. After the installation of the crate behind it are carried out engineering Communication, incl. wiring. It should be laid in special fire-prevention channels made of polymers.

Installation of drywall sheets

First, drywall boards are marked, then cut. In this case, a carpenter's knife is used. They make an incision on one side, then the sheet breaks, after which it is cut from the opposite side. It must be remembered that the material in order to avoid getting wet should not touch the floor. The distance from the sheet to the floor should be at least 1 cm.

The next step is cutting holes for electrical appliances. You can use a drill with a special nozzle "skirt".

This stage ends with the fastening of the cut GKL to the profiles with self-tapping screws, in increments of 20 cm. The fastener caps must be recessed into the plaster. The cut edges of the sheets are set close to each other, and the unedged edges of the sheets must be set at a distance of about 5 mm between them.

Finishing

General tips for finishing paint.

• Keep your spatula and other tools as clean as possible. Remove the excess layer of putty after each pass of the spatula.
• Never mix dried putty with fresh putty. The dried composition will leave an uneven surface. Remove completely dried composition from the mixing container.
• For better mixing of the mixture, use the mixing attachment attached to an electric drill.

So, make sure that ALL screws are installed correctly, i.e. embedded in the material. You must run the spatula over all the screws - if the spatula touches the head, then the screw should be tightened more.

For grouting, use a quick-drying gypsum plaster or putty with low shrinkage, preferably acrylic. Do not draw too much on the spatula. This will minimize waste.

Use flexible spatulas. Joints and holes are sealed in two movements: first, the seam is filled with the compound by moving the spatula across, and then the excess is removed by moving the spatula along the seam. Start by patching the butt joints at the ends of the cut drywall sheets.

After completing all butt joints, move on to conical joints. Conical - these are not cut seams along the edges of drywall sheets.

The last areas to be machined are the inside corners, followed by outside corners. When finishing the inside corners of drywall joints, work one side at a time.

Once the butt joint is filled with putty, cut off a piece of tape and stick it over the joint. The tape should be stuck in the center of the seam. Cut the tape to the length of all the seams that you will finish before starting. Important tip: wet the reinforcing tape in a bucket of water before sticking.

Once the tape is in place and smoothed out, cover the entire joint with more putty, this time using a wide spatula. Wipe off any excess that is squeezed out of the joints. It is best to leave the compound for 24 hours before applying a second coat.

After processing the joints, the fastener heads are also closed with putty, all excess is scraped off with a spatula.

After the two layers of putty at the joints have completely dried, the surface is polished as necessary with a sheet of fine sandpaper. After removal of dust from the surface, possible detected defects are smeared for the third time.

Drywall painting. How to paint?

Finishing the balcony with any drywall ends more often with painting than with wallpapering.

1. Before painting, carefully inspect the surfaces with a flashlight. Sand the imperfections with 150 grit sandpaper.
2. Sweep the dust off the walls and let it settle.
3. Sweep and then mop the floor.
4. Wipe the walls with a barely damp sponge.
5. Treat the surface to be painted with a special primer, especially carefully - at the corners and joints.
6. After the primer dries, apply 2 coats of paint. More than 2 coats may be needed, each applied after the previous has dried. First, the corners are painted with a brush, then the rest of the surface is painted with a roller. The paint is applied with a roller in two directions: first along, then across.

Drywall 6 Mistakes Everyone Should Know!

To create comfort in the house, it is important to pay attention to every part of it. Finishing the balcony with drywall will allow you to insulate, as well as make it more attractive without serious financial costs.

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Pros and cons of drywall

Drywall appeared at the end of the last century and immediately became popular due to its practicality and functionality.

Pros:

• Environmental friendliness. The material is absolutely harmless to humans and the environment, does not emit any hazardous substances.
• Providing excellent sound insulation. This is not so important for finishing a balcony, but due to this property, the material is often used to create interior partitions.
• Thermal insulation. Despite the small thickness, drywall reliably retains heat indoors.
• Plastic. The material is easily cut with a regular knife, which allows it to be used in any repair.
• Fire resistance. Previously, the material was considered low-combustible. Now it has become absolutely non-combustible, as it meets certain requirements of GOST and SNIP standards.
• Light weight. This quality of drywall makes finishing much easier for workers.
• Ease of installation. Working with the material is so simple that it is ideal for amateur DIY repairs.
• However, drywall is not ideal in the world of building materials. It also has disadvantages.
• Fragility. When transporting and installing the material, it is important to be careful. With significant mechanical pressure, its deformation is possible.
• Hygroscopicity. Non-moisture resistant drywall tends to easily absorb moisture. Therefore, before work, it must be left open for a couple of days. Moisture-resistant type of material does not need preliminary "airing". You can determine the resistance of the material to moisture by the green marking on the back of the sheets.
• Reducing the floor space. A feature of the installation of drywall is the reduction of space. This is due to the thickness of the sheets of material, putty and frame.
• Additional processing of sheets. So far, there is no such material with a finished coating on sale. With any repair involving drywall, finishing is required.

Kinds

This material has several varieties that differ in their characteristics.

1. Ordinary. This material is white. Suitable for rooms with moderate temperature and humidity.
2. Fire resistant. This species is painted in reddish or pinkish tones. Ideal for areas with a high level of fire safety control.
3. Moisture resistant. This material is green or blue color. Can be used in bathrooms and other areas with high humidity. It weighs a little more than usual.

What option to choose for cladding balcony walls from the inside? Undoubtedly, a moisture-resistant type of drywall is needed here. His sheets are special coating which protects the material from wetting and deformation. A special antifungal impregnation will prevent possible negative processes in the wall.

These factors are important to consider. After all, even when the balcony is insulated, temperature changes and changes in humidity create special conditions in this space that require the necessary care.

Preparation for work

If you decide to sheathe the balcony with drywall, you will need to preparatory activities. Prepare everything you need for work.

Bring the drywall itself, an electric drill, a screwdriver and a hammer drill. To mount the frame, you will need UD and CD profiles. You will connect profiles with the help of crabs. You will also need suspensions, a level, a plumb line. Don't forget the metal screws. And of course, materials for insulation and vapor barrier.

Equally important is the preparation of the room. If you plan to change double-glazed windows, then do it before starting work. It is also necessary to check the integrity of the surface of the walls.

If cracks are found, clean them with a grinder and putty with a moisture-resistant material. Then prime the walls and ceiling. It is better to repeat this several times. Excellent for these purposes, a reliable and wear-resistant primer with PVA is suitable.

For maximum protection of walls from unwanted influences external factors you can cover them with an antifungal and water-repellent agent.

After preliminary work, wait 13-15 hours until the sheathing itself.

Stages of work on fixing drywall:

• lathing installation
• insulation and creation of a vapor barrier
• fastening the material itself to the finished structure

Lathing installation

• Measure the area of ​​the walls. Then cut the UD and CD metal profiles. UD - guides. They are required for installation. CD - rack. They will help create a framework.
• Fix the UD to the ceiling. Maintain a step of 40-50 cm. Take a building level or plumb line and draw lines from the UD. This will help ensure that the bottom guide is installed evenly.
• Also install the bottom UD and corner rails. A cutter will help connect the UD to each other. Side UDs are fixed with screws.
• Then install the CD. Cut the profile to the desired length and insert into the "frame" between the upper and lower UD. Here, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws at two points (top and bottom). Fasten the other longitudinal CDs in the same way.
• Fix vertical profiles with hangers. They make the structure more durable. Fasten them in 40-50 cm increments along the length of each CD. For absolute fixation, use self-tapping screws.
• Then combine the hangers with the profile. Screws and metal "paws" come in handy here. The step when installing transverse profiles is calculated according to the height of the walls. Usually it is 40-50 cm.
• Places in which vertical and horizontal profiles are combined with each other put "crabs". Fix them with screws.
• It must be remembered that for proper wall cladding, vertical frame profiles must be fixed in increments of 60 cm.

Warming and vapor barrier

Lay the insulation between the profiles. When sheathing a balcony, this necessary condition. The type of insulation is determined by the master. It can be penoplex, mineral wool or something else.

Cut the insulation into equal parts. The size of the segments is determined by the size of the "cells" in which you will install the insulation. To fix it, use a special adhesive mixture. Fixation is carried out with dish-shaped dowels.

Lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. To fix it, use glue and a mounting stapler. On the drywall, draw marks for fastening to the profiles. Then cut out the necessary part of the sheet and attach it to the frame with the back side of the green color.

Make holes according to the markup. Use an electric drill. A step of 30-40 cm is needed here. Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and tighten them with a screwdriver carefully and not to the very end. Remember that excessive pressure on drywall can deform it. Install all sheets in the same way.

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Final finish

At the end, preparation for cladding is carried out. Coat the drywall surface with a primer. Place paper tape over the seams between the sheets of material. In its absence, you can use a special grid. Then apply 2 layers of putty.

When planning to do balcony cladding, a lot of people tend to use drywall for this. This material allows you to design both parts of the functional plan and decorative elements. The use of plasterboard material for cladding a balcony will correspond to the three tasks most often put forward to the material for internal works: high strength, reliability, availability of installation. In order for the end result of the balcony sheathing to please, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules for using drywall, step by step instructions.

Advantages of drywall on the balcony

In order for the balcony to perform additional functions and cease to be just a closet for unnecessary things, it is necessary to carry out the interior decoration of the balcony. This will turn the balcony into a small cozy room for relaxing, growing flowers and even a gym. Increasingly, craftsmen are using drywall for interior wall decoration. This is due to the large number of advantages inherent in the material:

• Drywall is rightfully considered an environmentally friendly material that is completely safe for humans, does not negative influence on human health and nature in general.
• Due to its high soundproofing characteristics, it can be used not only for cladding a balcony, but also for use as interior partitions.
• Ease of work with the material - drywall is easy to cut, which allows you to form objects of any size and shape from it.
• Low weight - a drywall sheet is able to level large surfaces, thanks to its low weight, installation is easy and effortless.
• Possibility to lay communications - pipes, electrical wiring, pipes or air conditioning.
• The ability to level the walls - with the help of the material, even very uneven walls can be leveled, no need to mess with the mortar, wait for drying, tie the work to the warm season.
• The ability to make any surface decoration - after sheathing with drywall, you can use any material on top. On top of the sheets, you can not only apply paint, wallpaper or plaster. Finishing possible decorative stone, gluing tiles and using everything that fantasy tells.
• Fire safety - the material does not ignite upon contact with fire, does not become a source of smoldering and the release of toxic fumes.
• Air permeability - a feature of the material is the ability to pass air movements, which allows the air not to stagnate and not create an unpleasant odor.

But despite the advantages that make the use of drywall justified, there are a number of disadvantages when using the material:

• The material is very fragile, it requires careful transportation and installation.
• High moisture absorption, some types of drywall require drying before use, which means that the material must stand for several days before use, but there is also absolutely moisture resistant drywall. Also, when in contact with water, the material deteriorates. When finishing with such sheets, do not forget about waterproofing.
• With constantly high humidity, there is a possibility of mold or fungus development; to avoid this, it is enough to prime the walls with a special antiseptic.
• Due to the peculiarities of mounting drywall, which requires the use of a frame, putty material, the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced.

Types of drywall for cladding options

There are three types of drywall:

• Ordinary drywall - material white color for use in typical residential buildings.
• Fireproof drywall is a material of pink or light red color, intended for installation in living rooms with high fire safety requirements. Used in rooms with a source of fire, public organizations, offices.
• Moisture resistant drywall - green or blue material. Recommended for use in rooms with increased level humidity.

Interior decoration of the balcony with moisture-resistant drywall

Conventional drywall consists of three layers. In the middle of the sheet there is a gypsum layer, and on both sides of it there is a very thick cardboard. Hence the name of the material. Gypsum is a special material that crumbles easily, so cardboard reliably protects the inner layer from damage and destruction. Previously, the material had a very low resistance to moisture, but with the development of technology, they came up with the idea of ​​​​applying a protective layer that reliably protects the sheet from the aggressive effects of moisture in the room. The material can be wiped with a dry sponge, also acceptable wet cleaning. You can distinguish moisture-resistant material from ordinary material by color palette and special labeling. Material coated with a protective moisture-resistant composition has a greenish color, while ordinary drywall is grayish white.

As a result, the ability to resist moisture is more than ninety percent, compared to classic drywall. The thickness of the sheets varies from six to twenty-four millimeters, and the width of the sheets reaches from sixty centimeters by two meters to twenty meters by four meters.

Even if there is a protective layer, over time, upon contact with water, the material will collapse, so it is recommended to paint the sheets with paint or cover with plastic.

To finish the balcony, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant drywall. Balcony, a place with high humidity, so standard drywall sheets are not suitable. And sheets of moisture-resistant material are impregnated with a composition that prevents the appearance of mold and fungus. The rest of the characteristics of moisture-resistant drywall are the same as those of ordinary. The only difference is more weight.

Installation instructions for drywall material

In order to independently trim the balcony in the absence of experience, it is necessary to study the theoretical rules and work procedure. It should be noted that the procedure for fixing drywall consists of three consecutive steps:

• mounting the crate;
• laying insulation and vapor barrier;
• installation of drywall sheets;
• finishing.

Before starting work, old coating elements are removed, the surface is cleaned from contamination. If there are gaps, then apply mounting foam. The surface of the balcony is treated with an antiseptic against the development of fungus, mold, and insects.

The beginning of work on plasterboard sheathing begins with the installation of metal profiles. The entire structure will be attached to them.

The instructions for plasterboarding a balcony look like this:

• pre-cut the sheets to the required dimensions, immediately prepare a niche for lamps, connectors;
• the sheet is installed from the corner and goes to the center, the self-tapping screws are screwed in twenty centimeters, deeply recessed in drywall sheets, while trying not to damage the fragile material;
• at the end of the work, the material is covered with a primer, the seams between the sheets are puttied;
• if desired, the surface of the sheets can be covered with a layer of paint, glued wallpaper, experts advise doing this on purpose, additional insulation will help extend the life of surfaces made of plasterboard sheets.

But it is better to dwell on each of the stages in more detail.

Installation of drywall on the balcony

Before starting work, they prepare for the sheathing process. The place on the balcony is completely freed from objects, furniture. It is not advisable to carry out sheathing with sheets before the balcony is glazed. First, double-glazed windows are installed and only after that they begin to install drywall. When all old cladding or the finish has been removed, a vapor barrier made of foil, film or special membranes must be installed.

Before installing the frame, the issue of insulation should be resolved. Balcony - a place that requires complete insulation: floor, walls, ceiling. If you insulate part of the balcony, there will be no special effect. It is not worth saving, it is better to make the insulation comprehensively. To do this, use a special material with the ability of thermal insulation. The main requirement for the material will be low vapor permeability. The ideal solution will be the use of polystyrene foam. The thickness of the material should be from fifty centimeters. But you can use any other heaters, they must meet the following requirements:

• be resistant to the formation of mold, fungus;
• be moisture resistant;
• should not require additional processing;
• should be easy to install;
• have a small weight.

Mineral wool and glass wool also meet these requirements.

Finishing the balcony with plasterboard sheets has a number of stages. It is necessary to follow the recommendations, this will help to carry out the sheathing correctly and quickly:

• the installation of the frame around the perimeter of the walls begins, so that everything goes right, a guide profile is laid on the floor;
• the maximum load will fall on the frame around the perimeter, because of this, fastening is done often - every ten centimeters;
• after the profiles are fixed along the floor, rack profiles are inserted, frequent fastening is also performed here;
• after installing the frame, proceed to the installation of profile sheets.

Mounting drywall sheets is a quick and pleasant step. It is only necessary to remember that the material is fragile and when tightening with a screwdriver, you should not use maximum force. It should also be borne in mind that the back side is applied to the frame, the one that is covered with a protective layer. There should not be wide gaps between the sheets, but if it is impossible to achieve such an effect, they are sealed with putty.

After the sheets are fixed, the points of attachment of the self-tapping screws must be carefully puttied. After carrying out these works, the surfaces are primed. Painting drywall on a balcony is recommended to extend the life of the material. Among the existing paint options, it is recommended to use water-based. Only white paint is offered in construction markets, but there are a lot of colors to give it the desired color. Everyone chooses an option based on their color preferences. If you choose paint, then consider this feature: matte paint will help hide surface imperfections, and glossy paint will emphasize irregularities. For applying paint to the surface of the sheets, it is best to use a roller. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to apply the first layer horizontally, the next - with vertical strokes. You can not wait for the layers to dry before applying the next one.

Tools for installing drywall on the balcony

Using drywall to finish a balcony is becoming an increasingly popular option. Inexpensive material cost and ease of installation make this method widely applicable. To carry out the work, you will need to prepare such a tool:

• building level, plumb;
• roulette;
• marker;
• insulation;
• hydro and vapor barrier;
• jigsaw, hacksaw;
• profiles;
• hacksaw for metal;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• drywall;
• mounting foam;
• putty.

Plasterboard walls on the balcony will be very practical. The room will have flat surfaces, with proper conduct hydro and thermal insulation works temperature regime will allow you to make a cozy place to relax or work from the balcony.

If you have any questions about the interior decoration loggias and balconies, about installing drywall on a balcony, watch the video. It describes in detail what stages of work, their sequence, special attention is paid to the requirements for the material and the algorithm for sequential actions for covering the balcony. At the end of the work, you will get a great result: cozy balcony With original design made by own hands.