Insulation of a wooden house from the inside. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: the choice of material and technology, stages of work Internal insulation of a wooden house

All about wall insulation from the inside wooden house: what material is better to use, the need for internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate with mineral wool inside.

According to the masters, the external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than the internal one. This is related to the concept of dew point.

The formation of condensate on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on the outside it will not go further than the hydro - or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house is possible only if other options are not acceptable for any reason.

The need for internal insulation

Before deciding on such interior finishes, you should consider what they can be fraught with:

1. Violation of the natural "breathing" of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
2. Changing the microclimate in the rooms due to high humidity.
3. Reducing the area of ​​each room.

If such good reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then you should look for the positive aspects of internal insulation and focus on them:

1. The ability to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to this as possible.
2. A beautiful view of the facade, especially if it is made of logs, can be preserved in its original form.
3. Such work requires easier installation, which even a beginner can do.
4. Internal insulation the walls of a wooden house are many times cheaper than the external one.

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to produce construction and Finishing work of any complexity and quite at a decent price. Before deciding on any action, you should be well acquainted with what materials the modern market offers and answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.

Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this frame house, then these will be some properties, and for a log house of thick logs - others.

Today, manufacturers of heaters offer the following types of materials:

All of these materials have a place to be in the modern construction market, but the choice is up to the consumer, to which of them he entrusts the safety and warmth of his home.

Wall preparation and lathing

As always, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:

1. Even the most best wood may form gaps at the joints during shrinkage. They should be sealed with sealant or in another way.
2. It is imperative that as a preventive measure it is necessary to carry out bio- and fire protection of the walls. Since thermal insulation is mounted for years, this will save it under any unforeseen circumstances.

   To protect the house from decay, without fail when laying thermal insulation, you need to make an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to walls made of logs.

3. Caulking of walls is necessary if they are made of timber. Jute is well suited for this, as the cheapest and proven by many generations of builders material.

In no case should the preparation of the walls be ignored, as this may affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.

Owners should think not only about how to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of it that, first of all, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room inside decreases, but it also gives the entire structure a shape and the necessary stability.

For the crate, a square bar with a section of 50 mm is used, and the step depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the formed cells, if it is mineral wool, or they are exactly sized for expanded polystyrene boards.

Prior to installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall with screws.

After the crate is installed in each room, you can proceed directly to solving the issue of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

mineral wool

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a “mat” is used to insulate walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need work in 4 hands, while the second can be handled on your own.

Laying is carried out from the floor to the ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with laying the next layer of the “pie” - the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary rather to protect the mineral wool from exposure external environment rooms than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they must immediately be covered with adhesive tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but opposite to the first. It is on it that the finish coating will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up much living space. The prepared and processed wall must be smeared with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the plates can be fixed with nails, cover the gaps and proceed with the finishing.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but is acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these works.
3. Before proceeding with the insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If there is not enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret the wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, work as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without creating ventilation, the “life” of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before starting the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house.

To insulate a house in which there is no interior decoration much easier than doing it in an already fully equipped and ennobled house. Do not rush into any internal work until every room in the house is properly insulated. Thanks to modern materials, you can do it yourself. Any room will be cozy and comfortable if you approach the matter competently and carefully read the technology for insulating the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house

As a rule, ceiling insulation is not treated responsibly. Many people think that it is not necessary to insulate it, but this is far from the case. The air that people try so hard to warm in winter rises up and goes through the ceiling to the street. Making a serious mistake - leaving the ceiling not insulated, many themselves, without knowing it, lose half of the heat, they waste senselessly cash on warmth fading into the unknown.

Ceiling insulation material:

• Mineral wool. This material is not expensive, but reliable and easy to install. He is one of the few heaters with whom you can work on your own without calling for help from other workers and, most importantly, do not pay them money.
• Glassine. Used as a waterproofing material is used.

For frame structures and sheathing you will need:

• Cutting board.
• Nails, glue, polyurethane foam.
• Drywall.

Ceiling insulation tools:

• Hammer.
• Hacksaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Tile adhesive.

Stages of ceiling insulation:

1. From edged boards we make a frame, you need to be prepared for the fact that this will reduce the height of the room. The distance between the boards of the frame should be no more than 1 meter.
2. Between the boards of the frame it is necessary glue glassine without leaving empty seats In order for the material to hold well, it needs to be slightly smeared with tile adhesive.
3. Over glassine we lay the insulation- mineral wool. Do not leave holes between the insulation. If the material does not hold, use tile adhesive in small quantities.
4. The last step is plasterboard ceiling lining. Using a screwdriver, we fasten sheets of drywall to a wooden frame.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside in the warm season and not earlier than 1 year after the construction of the house. Only in this case, the insulation will pass correctly and last for many years.

If it is decided to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, the walls can condensation will form. The northern places of the globe are especially subjected to this, where it is very cold in winter and warm in the rooms. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the insulation layers. This situation can be corrected film, which is used together with a heater, or to carry out good ventilation.

Required inventory

• Jigsaw, impact drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
• Wooden bars.
• Felt, foam or tow.
• Material for wall insulation, for example, glass wool.
• Drywall.
• Putty.

Modern materials for thermal insulation of walls

• Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids present in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. It does not allow moisture to penetrate inside, thus preventing the occurrence of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
• glass wool- choosing this material in the insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, as glass wool allows a small amount of moisture to pass through, as a result, thermal insulation properties deteriorate.
• Styrofoam- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. First of all beckons with its cheapness. Also positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be sealed. foam, linen felt or tow. You can choose any material that is more convenient to work with. We make a crate from wooden beam. We place a place for installing the extreme elements of the crate. Particular attention should be paid to this it depends on the first bars how smoothly the next ones will be attached, so use a level and plumb lines to verify.

If the definition of the first beam is completed, it should be fixed with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Then we measure 1 meter from the first beam and fasten the second one in the same way parallel to the first, etc. until the full perimeter of the crate is formed on the entire wall. If you meet on the way window openings, they should be beaten with bars in a circle.

Each beam must be treated with antiseptics to prevent rot and fungus. The crate is ready. Between the bars should be laid insulation. No need to use glue, the material will already hold tightly between the crate and the wall.

Making insulation. Used for insulation film or polyethylene, it is superimposed on top of the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last step is finishing. We cover the walls with plasterboard, we fasten it to the crate of the bars, it is important that the plates fit snugly against each other. If cracks appear, they should be filled.

Insulation of the floor of a wooden house

Tools and materials for work:

• Hammer, drill, saw, electric jigsaw.
• Nails, tape measure, pencil, knife.
• Level, planer.
• Mineral wool.

The concrete floor in a private wooden house necessarily requires insulation. It is worth noting that the process of floor insulation is not easy, but you can do it yourself by spending your personal time and effort. Consider the method - "raised floor", it will raise the floor at least 6 cm, but makes the room much warmer.

Mineral wool for floor insulation

Mineral wool has been inexpensive but effective material.

Advantagesmineral wool:

• This material sound and heat insulating.
• Excellent features and reviews.
• Duration service life.
• Low density.
• Does not deform practically under no circumstances.
• The price is always available for any citizen.
• Available in 2 types: flexible mats or rigid boards.

The only competitor to mineral wool is expanded polystyrene, which boasts of its practicality and ease of installation.

Insulation of a wooden house should be carried out completely, it is necessary to insulate ceiling, walls and floor. If the ceiling is insulated and there is no wall, warm air will still leave the room through microcracks and then all work will be in vain. On modern market you can buy a lot of thermal insulation coatings and tools for home insulation. If approached correctly, even wooden house old building will be cozy and warm in the coldest winters.

Video of warming a wooden house

Properly executed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - from the inside or the outside. Most home owners choose external insulation, and this choice is absolutely right - the external insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

With internal insulation, not only the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises decreases, but the dew point shifts inside the log house. Only the inner space is insulated, while the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter, and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house in this case occurs from the inside, closed by a heater.

External insulation protects not only the room from freezing, but also the log house itself. The dew point shifts to the outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated facade, where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for warming a wooden house

As a heater for wooden houses mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand. It is not recommended to use foam plastic for warming wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Mats made of stone or mineral wool are different thickness and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming dust that is harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, unlike polystyrene.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproofing and protects the log house from moisture penetration. It is laid on a protected wooden surface. This film must have vapor permeability and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the external environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is mounted on top of thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from the external environment. Waterproofing mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its heat-insulating properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of the ventilation gap. Such a cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for the long service life of the log house and the entire building.

The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside

1. The walls of a log or squared house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After treatment, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
2. The walls are fixed with staples and a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating. This film has different coverage sides: glossy should be facing the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with special mounting tape. A vertical crate made of a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the crate is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Laid by surprise, they will hold perfectly without additional fastening.

   

3. Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not hard enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can perform a temporary filing by fixing them with slats. The mats are finally fixed with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is laid with offset seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out with protective gloves and a respirator.

   

4. On top of the insulation, a hydro-wind-protective membrane film is attached to the staples. The waterproofing surface must face the outside. The joints are overlapped and glued with adhesive tape.

   

   Installing a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler

5. A ventilated frame is required on top of the film. It is also made of bars, providing a distance of at least 5 cm between the layer of insulation covered with wind protection and the decorative facade. The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then use perforated hangers for the profile, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. Under sheathing with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
6. The casing is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When cladding, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

   

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is the insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer. decorative stone or brick.

A wooden house can rightly be considered the pride of the owners. Wood retains heat well and provides a favorable microclimate in the room, has attractive design. However, in some cases, the heat-insulating properties of the material are not enough, so the insulation of the house becomes a way out of the situation.

Features of the procedure

The most widespread is the external insulation of the house. However, if it is impossible to fulfill it, you have to resort to thermal insulation of the house, bath or cottage from the inside. It should be noted right away that as a result of these manipulations, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in most cases decreases. An exception is made only for log cabin, which requires only interventional insulation.

With internal thermal insulation of a house made of any material, the humidity in the room always increases. It is clear that this negatively affects the walls, especially wooden ones. With improper thermal insulation, already in the first year of operation, the insulation will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties, and wooden surfaces will begin to rot and become moldy.

To avoid such phenomena allows the mandatory installation of a vapor-permeable film and the creation of a powerful ventilation system.

When insulating a wooden house from the inside, it should be remembered that it cannot be compared in its effectiveness with thermal insulation from the outside. This is due to the fact that the wall insulated from the inside does not accumulate heat, so the heat loss is 8-15%. Moreover, cut off from a warm room with a heat-insulating material, such a surface freezes faster.

Another important point is an integrated approach to isolation. You will have to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. If the house has an unheated attic and basement, then it is more rational to give priority and main attention to these areas when insulating.

Enormous, up to 40%, losses of thermal energy fall on windows and doors. It is important not only to use modern double-glazed windows and door leafs, but also make sure that they are installed correctly and tightly, take care of the insulation and protection of the slopes.

A common mistake when insulating a wooden house from the inside is to keep small gaps between surfaces, usually between the floor and walls, walls and partitions, walls and ceiling. Such gaps are called "cold bridges", because heat escapes through them and cold air penetrates.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For any thermal insulation material, the most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity. The lower it is, the less heat loss the house carries. It is measured in W / m × ° С, which means the amount of thermal energy leaving through the insulation per m2.

When choosing an insulating material for wooden surfaces attention should be paid to the indicators of vapor permeability. The fact is that the tree itself is a “breathing” material. It is able to take excess moisture from the air in the room, and in case of insufficient humidity - to give it away.

It is easy to imagine that when using a non-vapor-permeable insulation, moisture from wood will not find an outlet and will remain between the heat-insulating material and wood. This will be disastrous for both surfaces - a wet insulation has a high thermal conductivity, and the tree begins to rot.

Another important criterion for a heat insulator is moisture resistance. It is usually achieved by applying water repellents to the insulation and using a waterproofing film.

If we talk about interventional insulation, then it is impossible to close it with a waterproofing film, therefore the water resistance of the material, along with its thermal efficiency, comes to the fore when choosing a specific product. For indoor use, you should choose an environmentally friendly material. It is important that it belongs to the class of non-combustible or non-combustible, and also does not emit toxins when heated.

The biostability of a product directly affects its durability. If the insulation attracts insects or rodents, then in the course of their life, cracks and damage invariably appear in it, which causes the appearance of "cold bridges".

Among other primary characteristics are ease of installation, a variety of forms of execution and options for density, thickness, affordability.

What is the best way to insulate?

The most common option for warming a wooden house is mineral wool insulation. Usually, glass wool or stone wool is used to organize the heat-insulating layer. The latter surpasses glass wool in terms of technical characteristics, but most importantly, it is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Glass wool emits toxic compounds during operation, therefore it is not recommended for indoor use. In addition, it has the worst indicators of wet strength and fire resistance (although it has high fire-fighting characteristics - the combustion temperature is 400-500 degrees). Finally, it is prone to shrinkage and a decrease in thickness (and this leads to an increase in thermal conductivity); when laying, it requires the use of not only a respirator (like all mineral wool insulation), but also overalls.

In this regard, the use of stone or basalt wool is more attractive. The basis of the material is recycled rock, which is subjected to high-temperature heating (over 1300 degrees). Then thin fibers are isolated from the semi-liquid mass. In a chaotic manner, they are formed into layers, after which they are pressed and subjected to short-term exposure to high temperatures.

The result is a material of varying stiffness, produced in mats, rolls and tiles. Mats have the greatest strength, are suitable for heavily loaded structures, including floor insulation under a screed.

For wooden walls in most cases, tiled basalt wool is enough; it also fits between the logs of a wooden floor. Roll products are convenient to use when insulating flat horizontal surfaces, such as a ceiling.

The thermal insulation properties are ensured by the location of the fibers, between which air bubbles accumulate in large volumes - the best heat insulator. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, depending on the density and brand, is 0.35-0.4 W/m×°C.

In addition to high thermal insulation, the material demonstrates good sound absorption performance. The sound insulation coefficient of impact noise reaches 38 dB, air - from 40 to 60 dB.

Unlike glass wool, basalt wool is characterized by low moisture absorption, which is on average 1%. In combination with high vapor permeability - 0.03 mg / (m × h × Pa), this allows you to protect the wood from decay and maintain a healthy atmosphere in the house. Melting temperature stone wool is about 1000 degrees, so it is considered a non-combustible material. In addition, due to the natural composition, it is possible to achieve the environmental safety of basalt insulation.

Ecowool is also suitable for wall insulation. 80% of the material is cellulose chips treated with flame retardants and antiseptics, the rest is polymer resins, modifiers.

Ecowool refers to bulk materials, but it can also be sprayed onto the surface using special equipment. Despite the treatment with water repellents, the material requires a waterproofing layer. In terms of its thermal efficiency, it is inferior to stone wool.

modern material for insulation - penofol, also suitable for internal insulation. It is a roll of foamed polyethylene (provides a thermal insulation effect) with a foil layer applied on one side (reflects thermal energy into the room). The presence of a metallized layer increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material, but makes it combustible (class G1).

The well-known polystyrene foam, which has similar thermal conductivity, is not recommended for use inside a wooden house. The fact is that the material "does not breathe." The tree, as you know, is characterized by the ability to take excess moisture from the room and give it away if necessary. In the presence of a polystyrene foam layer, the tree simply cannot get rid of excess moisture, which will lead to the onset of decay. In addition, polystyrene is characterized by toxicity and flammability, it often becomes a home for rodents.

If it is still impossible to refuse its use, preference should be given not to foam, but to extruded polystyrene foam. It is more environmentally friendly, has a higher fire safety.

Another durable and heat-efficient material is polyurethane foam (PPU), at first glance, is optimal insulation. The low coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as the features of application (it is sprayed onto the surface) not only reduce heat loss, but also eliminate the risk of "cold bridges". However, polyurethane foam does not "breathe" and if, in the case of using expanded polystyrene, it is possible to organize a vapor barrier between the wooden surface and the insulation, then when installing PPU, the creation of this layer is impossible. After 5-7 years, the walls under the PPU layer will begin to rot, and removing it is a rather laborious process.

For interventional insulation, special materials are used. They may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Organic interventional heaters, most often used for internal thermal insulation, include the following types of materials:

Linen insulation

Since ancient times, coarse flax fibers unsuitable for weaving have been used for these purposes. Today, tape insulation is also manufactured on plant-based and is called linen felt or linen. Differs in high density, vapor permeability (optimal for rooms with high humidity).

Jute

Insulation based on recycled bark fibers exotic tree lime family with the same name. It is characterized by a high content of resins in the composition, which ensures the strength and high antibacterial properties of jute. It protects not only the interventional space, but also the wooden surface itself. However, a large amount of resin leads to inelasticity of the insulation. Over time, it becomes stiffer and seems to dry out, decreases in volume, which leads to the appearance of cracks. The combination of jute with lnovatin allows to level this disadvantage.

Felt

Natural woolen material (sheep's wool), thanks to which unsurpassed heat and sound insulation characteristics are achieved. It is treated with water repellents and compounds that prevent the appearance of insects and microscopic life forms in the insulation.

Among materials of artificial origin, synthetic winterizer, polytherm (synthetic polyester-based felt) and PSUL are popular. It is noteworthy that the name "polyterm" originally denoted a certain material from a Finnish manufacturer. However, over time, the term has become a household word. Today, they designate both a specific manufacturer and a type of polyester insulation.

Under the abbreviation PSUL, the following name is hidden - pre-compressed insulation. Its main ability is the ability to shrink and expand in accordance with linear changes in the dimensions of wood without losing its technical characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, it exceeds similar values ​​of natural heaters. At the same time, it is characterized by vapor permeability, biostability, environmental safety and fire resistance.

When thermal insulation of interventional seams, the use of such heaters as tow and mineral watts should be abandoned due to their lower moisture resistance.

Manufacturers overview

When choosing a heater for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

• The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company rockwool(Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The range is amazingly varied. Each section of the house has its own line of products. So, for walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different stiffness within the same mat, roll and slab counterparts. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

• Not inferior in quality and products from Germany - tile and rolled mineral wool brands Knauf and Ursa. To insulate the room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

• Leading positions are also occupied by French mineral wool insulation in slabs, mats and rolls from the brand Isover. In the collections you can find both lightweight products (with a density of 10-20 kg / m3) and rigid mats for frame houses(density 150-190 kg/m3). The cost is quite high - from 2000 to 4000 rubles / m2.

• Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, she has more affordable price. User reviews allow you to mark companies such as TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool with improved sound insulation performance.

• Among the best manufacturers ecowool worth noting firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies Equator, Ecowool Extra and Nanovata.

• Finnish interventional insulation "Polyterm" is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special figured elements for decorating joints, corners, and transitions in the house.

• A similar interventional thermal insulation material based on polyester is produced by the Russian brand "Avaterm". According to the manufacturer, due to the highest performance characteristics, the material is able to serve up to 100 years. Popular sealant brands are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Seam.

How to choose?

When choosing a material, it is important that its density matches that required in a particular area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. In some cases (absolutely in all mineral wool products), thermal conductivity, rigidity, weight and load bearing capacity material.

Usually, manufacturers indicate not only the density, but also the recommended scope of the material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions of products. Mineral wool insulation should be stored in sealed original packaging, even a slight wetting of the product is unacceptable. Styrofoam afraid sun rays, under their influence, it begins to collapse.

Types of technology

Depending on the type of materials used, as well as the installation methods used, the following technologies for thermal insulation of a wooden house are distinguished:

Warm seam

It is used for interventional insulation of log houses, for sealing joints between foundation masonry and walls. Suitable for objects in which additional wall decoration from the inside is not provided. For insulation, special interventional insulators are used, as well as silicone sealants. The advantage of this method is the lower labor intensity and cost of the process, the ability to preserve the natural beauty and vapor permeability of wooden coatings.

Insulation on the crate

It is provided for in the presence of interior wall decoration, as well as insufficient thermal efficiency of the interventional insulation. Without fail, it requires vapor barrier and walls and additional ventilation of the house, fastening the frame, fixing the insulation, solid sheathing of the frame with plasterboard and attaching the finishing material to it. Such thermal insulation is effective, and in order to avoid condensation, a gap is maintained between the insulation and the skin for air circulation.

How to do it yourself?

• Regardless of the technology used, the first prepare the walls. If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should start by cleaning them from dust, dirt, old coatings. If cracks are found, they are treated with a sealant, all irregularities are cleaned. Before insulation, you should also remove all communications from the walls, check the wiring. Completes preparatory stage applying an antiseptic primer and flame retardants to the surface.
• Installation of vapor barrier film. It is attached to the entire surface with a gap of 10 cm and fixed with construction tape. If financial possibilities allow, it is better to use a more efficient vapor barrier membrane instead of a vapor barrier film. We remind you once again that vapor barrier is only one of the components of maintaining optimal humidity and a favorable microclimate in a wooden house. The second mandatory "component" is the ventilation system.

• Creation wooden crate , which is fixed to the walls of the house by means of brackets. The crate is assembled from wooden logs, which are pre-treated with flame retardants and antibacterial compounds. The step of the crate corresponds to the width of the insulation, and when using mineral wool products it can even be 1-2 cm narrower. The most common, as already noted, insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Its layers are placed between the elements of the crate and fixed with dowels.
• Chipboard installation or drywall sheets as a facing layer. A small gap is maintained between the drywall sheets and the insulation layer, which provides better thermal insulation and allows the insulation to ventilate. If ecowool is used as a heat insulator, then they are immediately attached to the crate drywall sheets, and ecowool is already poured into the resulting gap. Sheets of drywall are puttied in several layers with pre-treatment of each layer with fine sandpaper. After applying the finishing layer of putty, you can begin to fix the wall decorative coating - wallpapering, painting, etc.

Today on sale you can find mineral wool boards having different densities in thickness.

The part of the plate that is attached to the wall has a looser structure, the outer surface is more dense and rigid. Such materials are glued to the wall using special mixtures. Due to the high rigidity of the outer side of the insulation, it is possible to do without mounting the crate. The material is covered with glue, reinforcing fiberglass is attached to it, on top of which plaster is applied in several layers, and paint or decorative plaster composition is applied to it.

Wall cladding made of logs or timber looks somewhat different.

• Immediately after the construction of the building, the primary insulation of the interventional gaps is carried out, which is also called caulking. To do this, a twisted interventional insulation is inserted into the gaps using a caulk or spatula. When using synthetic materials, a layer of sealant is applied over them.
• A year later (it is after so much time that the house gives maximum shrinkage) re-caulking is carried out. First of all, the condition of the wooden surface itself is assessed. If chips and cracks are found, they are filled with the same elastic sealant. Next, check the quality of the insulation of the interventional seams. It is better if this is done not only "by eye", but also using a thermal imager.

• If points of heat loss are found, they are re-caulked. If additional insulation of log walls is not provided, then the joints are re-treated with sealant, now for decorative purposes. Modern compositions are characterized by richness colors, so the user will be able to match the mixture to match the logs. Another option to close the joints is to use jute braid, which has an attractive soft golden hue and looks harmonious with most types of wood.
• If further thermal insulation of the walls is expected, then the steps described above are performed (priming, creating a vapor barrier layer, mounting the frame and fixing the insulation, fixing drywall, finishing). Insulation of the ceiling also implies the creation of a crate, under which a waterproofing coating is laid, for example, glassine. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws and special glue, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling. The next step is plasterboard ceiling lining and finishing.

If there is a second floor, the ceiling is insulated. For interfloor overlapping, materials of increased rigidity are required.

If the house has an attic of an unexploited type, then bulk materials (expanded clay, ecowool) can be used to insulate it. For heated attics and mansards, special basalt insulation increased rigidity. Insulation of maximum rigidity (from 150 kg / m3) is required for a flat roof.

When insulating the floor first of all, it should be leveled, overlapped and with a small (up to 10 cm) "creep" on the walls of the waterproofing membrane. After that, lay wooden logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. Mineral wool (or expanded polystyrene) is laid between the logs. The insulation layer is closed with a PVC membrane, on top of which the flooring is mounted (usually sheets of chipboard or plywood).

Experts recommend carefully calculating the thickness of the material, since the indicators of its thermal efficiency depend on this. If the insulation layer in the house is insufficient, it will not be possible to achieve the optimum temperature. An excessively thick layer is not only unjustified financial costs, but also an additional burden on bearing structures, as well as changing the location of the "dew point".

The latter term denotes the boundary where the moisture leaving the room in the form of vapor turns into a liquid. Ideally, this should occur outside the insulation, however, if its thickness is incorrectly calculated and the installation technology is violated, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation.

Wrong is the insulation of a wooden house from the inside and outside. The surface of the wood is between 2 vapor barrier layers, which disrupts the natural ventilation of the material and leads to the onset of putrefactive processes.

Professionals strongly recommend using external insulation as more efficient and correct for the operation of a wooden house. Insulation from the inside is an extreme measure. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in the warm season, in dry weather, since during this period the walls are as dry as possible. If you plan to insulate a newly built house, then you should wait a year. This is due to the fact that wooden objects shrink.

When installing the crate, make sure that its step corresponds to the dimensions of not only the insulation, but also the drywall sheets. Otherwise, you will have to fill additional rails - an extra load on the frame and an increase in labor intensity. The best option- select sheets of insulation and drywall of similar dimensions.

Despite the cheapness of foam plastic, as well as its low heat transfer, refuse to insulate wooden walls with this material.

• It has low vapor permeability, which will lead to rotting of the walls, an increase in humidity in the house, the appearance of condensation on the walls and mold on the finishing material.
• It emits styrene, which is hazardous to health, and therefore in some European countries there is a ban on the use of expanded polystyrene for interior decoration.
• This combustible material, which releases toxins when the temperature rises. When using foam in a wooden structure, you can create a real fire trap.

The sealant used for interventional insulation must be elastic and able to compress and expand during shrinkage and thermal expansion of wood. For indoor use, an acrylic-based composition will be optimal. If you need a stronger sealant, then acrylic with the addition of polyurethane foam is suitable. Important point- such a sealant cannot act as an independent insulation.

Does your wooden house require insulation? But you don't know how to do it right? Then the following information will definitely come in handy. It will be about. Although I would like to note that this method is not used as often as the external installation of insulation. Why is this method considered less popular?

Modern thermal insulation materials have high technical specifications: light weight, flexibility, excellent ability to maintain indoor microclimate.

There are several good reasons: first, internal option insulation slightly reduces living space; secondly, by performing the installation of a heater on your own, due to inexperience, you can get a violation of the microclimate due to high humidity. That is why it is best if the insulation of a wooden house from the inside occurs after consultation with specialists or professional builders. They will tell you how to insulate a wooden house inside competently, quickly and correctly.

Please note that the method of internal insulation is fundamentally different from the installation of insulation outside the house.

Causes of a cold snap in the house and the procedure for thermal insulation work

Usually houses built of wood are particularly comfortable: they are cool in summer and warm in winter. Most often, a cold snap in a wooden house can be caused by 2 main reasons. This:

• poor-quality or improperly mounted outer heat-insulating layer;
• the appearance of cracks in the walls of the house as a result of improper installation, or drying out.

After the reasons for the cold in a wooden house have become clear, you can proceed to familiarize yourself with the list of upcoming work aimed at its internal insulation.

This process will take place in several stages:

1. First you need to prepare the surfaces.
2. Then caulk all existing gaps.
3. Arrange a layer of vapor barrier.
4. Mount the crate.
5. Lay a layer of thermal insulation.
6. Arrange ventilation system.
7. Next comes the finishing work.

And now about all these stages in more detail.

Back to index

Work on preparing the surface for insulation

The first stage of work on insulation involves the preliminary preparation of surfaces.

When working on laying heat-insulating material, it is necessary to protect the respiratory and vision organs from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.

To begin with, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls with the help of special composition protecting the tree from insect breeding. It is very good if the composition you have chosen will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the risk of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, you need to take care of security electrical wiring. If there is an option for its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the gaps

Having done all the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of warming. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate existing gaps. They need to be carefully sealed. Many people know that after a house is built from a bar, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure to eliminate gaps, after about 1 year.

Naturally, this is done if the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, re-caulking of cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to fill gaps? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.

From the tools you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For especially large slots, a tape tow is used, which, before being placed in the gap, is twisted in the form of a roller. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used can no longer be placed in them.

Back to index

Vapor barrier layer: nuances

Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.

The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not able to breathe. What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help it is possible effective fight with humidity. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the process of wood decay.

Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is carried out using a special film, which is placed on the surface of the wall with its rough side towards the wooden surface.

Back to index

Sheathing and thermal insulation layer

You can mount the crate layer on the walls using a wooden beam. It is also allowed to use metal profile, but only in the case of subsequent sheathing with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Scheme of wall insulation: 1 - outer skin (lining); 2 - polyethylene; 3 - OSB plate; 4, 6 - vapor barrier layer; 5 - thermal insulation layer (mineral wool); 7 - ventilation gap; 8 - inner lining.

In order for the corners of the crate to be even and correct, it is necessary to take care of the preparation of the corner posts in advance. To do this, make measurements of the height of the room and, in accordance with this value, cut the timber. The cross section of the beam used for these purposes should be 50 × 100 mm.

As a result of these manipulations, you should get a stand that resembles the letter “G” in its outline. Each of the corners of the room should be equipped with such a rack. When mounting, do not forget to check the verticality of their location.

Now you can proceed with the installation of vertical bars in increments of about 0.5 m. The bar should have a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Do not forget that all wooden parts of the crate must be pre-treated protective composition against decay and fire.

After the crate is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating layer. For these purposes, a material such as mineral wool is well suited. After you have unrolled the roll of material, you need to cut it according to the desired height value. And the width of the heat-insulating layer should be 2 cm greater than the distance between the two vertical bars.

Having placed a strip of a heat-insulating layer between the bars, you need to fix it on the wall with anchors. Please note that anchors with large round caps are used. A second layer of insulation is fixed to the surface of the bars. Vapor barrier, or rather the film used for its device, will help to avoid dampness, and will also prevent small particles of mineral wool from getting into the air. The vapor barrier layer is fastened to the bars using a construction stapler.