How to block the cellar: types of flooring, monolithic and precast-monolithic slabs, wooden structures with load-bearing beams, insulation of the basement ceiling. How to make a basement floor? Pouring a floor slab in the basement

• Basement floor is cold
• Mold and fungus will gradually grow on its surface and on the walls.

The appearance of such troubles leads to:

• To damage the repair
• To the accelerated destruction of the structure
• Deteriorating the health of people living in the house

When an unheated basement is planned in a residential building, thermal insulation of the floor above the basement is always necessary. Since, firstly, the walls in the cold basement are not insulated, and the temperature in the basement is negative in winter. A cold floor means uncomfortable conditions in the room, and a significant cost overrun of energy for heating. And, secondly, the moist soil in the underground throughout the year continuously releases moisture in the form of water vapor, which saturates the wooden logs. The surface of the basement ceiling, which is not insulated and not protected from moisture, will easily transfer cold and dampness to the room, which is located above. The basement microclimate promotes the development of mold and fungus on the walls.

Therefore, floor insulation should be taken seriously: layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation should be included in the floor construction.

As a rule, when constructing floors, wooden beams 150 mm wide are used. When installing a heater between the beams, the heat-insulating layer turns out to be heterogeneous, because every 60-100 cm, instead of a heater, a load-bearing wooden beam will be located. Depending on the step of the beams, the share of insulation in such a “pseudo-thermal-insulating” layer is from 70 to 85%. And the rest of the floor surface is nothing but heat-conducting inclusions called cold bridges. In order for a wooden beam not to be a bridge of cold, but to perform heat-saving functions, its thickness must be at least 60 cm (for example, a house in the Moscow region). It becomes obvious that even when using a wooden beam with a section of 20x20 cm, that is, a height less than necessary three times, heat losses through cold bridges will be three times higher than normalized ones!

From this we can draw 3 conclusions:

• cold bridges do not provide full insulation
• installation of insulation between wooden beams should be done only in seasonal residences (for example, summer cottages)
• insulation between the beams should be considered only as an additional to the main continuous layer, in order to increase the heat-shielding properties of the floor structure.

So how to properly insulate the floor above a cold basement so as not to pay for heat loss?

The right solution for floor insulation is the installation of a continuous thermal insulation layer, without cold bridges, which are formed when insulation is laid between wooden beams. This is possible in the case when the insulation layer will be located not between the beams, but under them or on top of them. At the same time, when laying, it must ensure the density of the joints, be strong and rigid in order to transfer all loads from the floors to the floor beams.

The heater must:

• withstand loads - do not shrink like fibrous insulation
• be durable - not fibrous and does not crumble like foam balls
• be energy efficient - have a minimum thermal conductivity (maximum thermal insulation)
• and, of course, to be environmentally friendly, that is, not emitting into the room harmful substances, such as phenols or styrenes

All these advantages are enclosed in an innovative insulation - thermal insulation PIR boards based on polyisocyanurate foam. Polyisocyanurate foam, despite its "long" name, is a type of polyurethane with significantly improved thermal conductivity and fire resistance characteristics.

Used to insulate floors above a cold basement PIR boards PIRRO 30, 50 and 100 mm thick. The slabs have "quarter" and "thorn-groove" profiles on all sides, which provide a tight joint during laying and the absence of cold bridges.

PIR plate PIRRO– thermal insulation board made of rigid polyisocyanurate (PIR), lined with alumina laminate. Foil and aluminum laminate linings play the role of a diffusion-tight coating that provides vapor and air tightness and stability of the thermal characteristics of the material for the entire service life

• Fire safety. PIR thermal insulation of floors above the basement has high fire-resistant properties: under the influence of a flame, polyisocyanurate is charred, forming a crust that protects intact polymer layers.
• Moisture resistance. Low water absorption ensures the stability of the characteristics of the plate throughout the entire service life.
• Easy installation. PIR insulation in basement wooden floor slabs is cut construction knife, hacksaw. During the work with a plate fibrous dust is not formed, means of protection of respiratory organs are not required. PIR insulation for the basement has a low volumetric weight.
• Environmental friendliness. PIR thermal insulation for the basement is environmentally friendly in operation, does not contain styrenes and formaldehydes, is a chemically inert product. Not affected by mold and mildew.
• High strength. The insulation in PIR-plates for basement floors is designed for free movement along them during the installation of floors.

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroUniversal

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroThermo

Specifications of Pirro PIR BoardsWall

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroKraft

Instructions for insulating concrete floors above a cold basement

1 step

Preparation of the bottom surface of the plate. For ceilings made of reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to check the quality of the joints between the slabs, if necessary, caulk with a cement-sand mortar. To clear a surface of plates of solution deposits.

2 step

The device of the heat-insulating layer. When installing the plates, they should be placed with an offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern. As fasteners, plate-shaped dowels with a driving expansion element or a screw are used. Gaps in the places where the heat-insulating layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.
Note: It is also possible to insulate a concrete floor above a cold basement from the side of a warm room - according to the technology of insulation of an interfloor floor, but without measures for the installation of floating floors.

Instructions for warming wooden floors above a cold basement (over beams)

1 step

Foundation preparation. Treat wooden beams with a bioprotective compound. It is recommended to arrange a sparse boardwalk, which will ensure the convenience of work and serve as a basis for laying PIR boards in the future.

2 step

The device of the heat-insulating layer. Lay the insulation boards across the beams (or across the completed boardwalk).
When laying the slabs, they should be placed offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern.
To provide the plates with a given position, fix them from displacement with nails or self-tapping screws. In the future, do not dismantle the fastener if its caps are recessed into the slab. Gaps in the places where the heat-insulating layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.

3 step

The device is hydro-, vapor barrier. If the floors are tiled on the screed, then use plastic wrap as a vapor barrier. For wooden floors, an alternative insulation method is to glue the board joints with aluminum adhesive tape. Fix the film from displacement using a construction stapler; it is recommended to connect the joints of the panels with adhesive tape, providing an overlap of at least 15 cm.

4 step

The device of a basis under floors. For tiled floors: perform a cement-sand or prefabricated screed. The screed is carried out directly on the vapor barrier. For wooden floors: batten with boards at least 100 mm wide, fastened to wooden beams(or sparse flooring) with wood screws.


5 step

Floor covering.

Recommendations for the insulation of wooden and reinforced concrete floors above an unheated basement

• If flooring will be made of wood, for example, tongue-and-groove boards, then between such a coating and vapor-waterproofing it is necessary to install a layer of lathing. The crate is installed along the beams and forms air layer. In case of leaks from above, the floor will remain dry.
• A screed for laying a tiled floor can be made with a cement-sand mortar or a two-layer prefabricated one, for example, from DSP or GVLV sheets. The layers in the prefabricated screed are performed with mandatory dressing of the seams, that is, the joints of the sheets of the upper layer must be offset relative to the joints of the lower layer of the sheet width.
• You should carefully consider the level of humidity in a cold basement (underground). The traditional way to maintain normal humidity is ventilation through vents - holes in the basement wall located around the perimeter of the house and having a cross section of at least 1/400 of the basement floor area. Through the vents, water vapor is removed from the unheated basement to the street (provided that the humidity in the basement is higher than on the street).
• Thus, durability is ensured hardwood floor- load-bearing wooden floor beams remain dry, and the conditions for the formation of mold and fungus disappear.
• For houses of seasonal residence for the winter, the vents should be left open (put a grid), for heated houses (year-round use), the section of the vents should be reduced, or closed, provided that normal humidity is ensured in the basement (for example, when installing vapor barrier soil, when installing a ventilation system).

home distinguishing feature the floor structure of the 1st floor, located above the unheated underground, is that there is a heater in the structure. And where there is a heater, the question of its protection from adverse factors automatically arises in order to preserve its heat-shielding qualities. And one of the most important issues protecting the insulation is a matter of protecting it from moisture, that is, a vapor barrier device. This article will focus on the insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement, and with your own hands.

Creation of a temperature and humidity regime

The main task of all structures using insulation is to create the correct mode of its operation, i.e. make sure that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation, and that which can form in it, has the opportunity to freely evaporate to the outside. The first means of protection is a vapor barrier. The second means is ventilation, as sufficient ventilation promotes the evaporation of moisture. These principles should be used when constructing the floor of the 1st floor.

The first is ensured by the correct use of vapor barriers. Ventilation is provided by air gaps and space under the floor (underground). The underground (technical underground, basement) must be dry and well ventilated. Incorrect temperature and humidity conditions of the underground can lead to the formation of condensate inside the insulation. To prevent this from happening, the underground must have air ducts for its ventilation. At very low air temperatures in winter, they can even be closed so that the temperature in the underground is not very low and this does not lead to a large temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensate in the insulation or on its surface.

insulation

Types of heaters

As a heater, both bulk and rolled or board materials. Bulk heaters are expanded clay, vermiculite, slag, mineral fibers, shavings.

Expanded clay backfill

Board materials are prefabricated boards or blocks of materials with low thermal conductivity. Recently, polyurethane foam insulation has become very popular, which are blown into the space of the insulated structure.

Mineral wool insulation

But the most popular, especially in private construction, are flexible, soft materials. Such heaters are good because they are easy to give the necessary shape, they are convenient when laying. The most common insulation is the so-called mineral wool in the form of mats or rolls.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

• good thermal conductivity;
• non-flammable and does not support combustion;
• lightweight, savings on load-bearing structures;
• convenience and speed of installation.

Flaws:

• hygroscopicity;
• you need a foundation for laying.

Vapor barrier - why is it needed

The insulation must be protected from moisture. Any insulation, if it gets wet, loses its heat-shielding properties very much. And since mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, care must be taken that moisture does not get on it.

But protection is required not only from water. Protection is required against the ingress of steam. Vapor barrier plays an important role in creating optimal operating conditions for the insulation.

Without delving into the concepts of partial pressure, we note the importance of understanding two points:

It is the vapor barrier that is the barrier that prevents moisture (in the form of steam) from penetrating into the insulation;

It is important to correctly determine in which place of the "pie" the vapor barrier should be placed.

The principle of placement of vapor barrier

In order to briefly, but at the same time clearly understand where the vapor barrier should be placed, you need to remember: steam always spreads from a place with more high pressure to an area of ​​lower pressure. It can be put simply this way: warm steam always (practically) spreads from the room to the outside. This must be remembered and then it is easier not to get confused with where it should be placed.

It follows from the foregoing that the vapor barrier is not placed "above" or "under" the insulation. It is located "between" a warm room-source of steam (usually indoor heated rooms) and a cold room (outdoor space) where this steam moves. Therefore, in case of heating attic floor, the vapor barrier will be under the insulation, and in the case of insulation of the wooden floor above the basement - above the insulation.

The concepts of vapor barrier, waterproofing, membrane

In order for the vapor barrier to be effective, i.e. worked correctly and did not cause harm, the film must be laid on the correct side. To do this, you need to study the manufacturer's instructions and consult with the seller. A large number of various materials for protection against steam and water are now being produced. But there is a difference between them. The scope of their application depends on the type of premises, their humidity and temperature conditions, ambient air temperature, for which construction they are used - roofs, ceilings or walls. Often confusion comes from the concepts themselves: vapor barrier and membrane, vapor barrier is used instead of waterproofing.

Designed to protect against water vapor, which are in the air of the room. In fact, steam is a water-saturated gas, or we can say the gaseous state of water. The vapor barrier must have a low vapor permeability, i.e. she must not skip steam. It is approximately equal to 10 g \ m2 \ day.

Basically, the vapor barrier is a film. They can be conditionally divided into:

Vapor-permeable or "breathable" (membranes);

Vapor-tight, practically impervious to steam, water or air.

Waterproofing designed to protect structures from water. Water molecules are larger than gas molecules.

Membrane. Now the word membrane has become very popular. Membranes are already more high-tech films. With regard to the topic of vapor barrier, we can say that this is a material capable of leaking or vice versa trapping certain substances. The most commonly used expression is a vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane. This means that this material does not pass water, but at the same time passes steam and allows moisture to evaporate. It is these properties that are required during construction to protect thermal insulation.

The direction from where the membrane passes steam and from where it does not let water through can be different for different membranes, depending on the place of its destination. Therefore, you need to be very careful when choosing and ask the seller all the necessary characteristics.

The main structural schemes of the floor of the 1st floor

Consider the construction of the floor of the 1st floor above the underground or unheated basement.

Scheme of the wooden floor of the first floor without waterproofing

The basic layout of the floor of the first floor is as follows. On the bearing beams, which are based on the foundation, the subfloor is laid. The draft floor is necessary in order to lay out insulation on it. The insulation is placed in the space between the bars. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. Between the vapor barrier and the plank flooring, it is imperative to organize an air gap for the evaporation of condensate, which may form on the vapor barrier from the side of the room. It can be organized by nailing bars 2-3 cm high. A boardwalk is arranged on top of which the finishing floor is laid.

The load-bearing structure of the floor is beams. The step of the bars is usually 60-80 cm. You can choose a step so that it would be convenient to lay out insulation between the bars. Then the step will be equal to the width of the insulation plus the thickness of the timber.

In places where the beams are attached to stone structures, between them there should be a waterproofing gasket made of, for example, roofing felt or bituminous mastic. Between the beam and the foundation wall, it is necessary to make a gap for ventilation, the beam should not adjoin the wall closely.

Draft floor. To attach the subfloor to the bars, smaller bars, “cranial bars”, are attached. Subfloor boards are laid on them. Here you can use a board with a thickness of 15-50 mm of low grade.

Wooden floor of the 1st floor with waterproofing

Sometimes waterproofing is provided in the floor construction. It is appropriate if the basement is very damp, there is a high level of groundwater. Then there is a need to protect the insulation from below. For this, waterproofing is arranged under the insulation. This waterproofing should be made of a water-repellent but vapor-permeable membrane. In order to prevent annoying mistakes, it is better to call the upper film simply a vapor barrier (even if the manufacturer calls the film itself a membrane), and the lower film is waterproofing. And here, ideally, a membrane should really be used - a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

An example of the use of improper waterproofing

This video is a very clear example of the fact that water can form in the insulation. This video is very common on YouTube under various names. Very often it is called "wrong vapor barrier". The vapor barrier itself is not visible in the video. Perhaps the authors of this design used the bottom film as some kind of vapor barrier.

But the point is that the bottom film was supposed to be waterproofing, waterproof on one side, but vapor permeable on the other.

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Comments:

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Regular (17)

1. Natalia

   Good afternoon. Completely confused in steam and waterproofing. Tell me if we are doing the floor of the first floor. We have a wooden house made of timber 150 by 150 by screw piles. we make a rough floor, then we have to put waterproofing. We bought hydro and steam insulation D in the store. It’s like a sugar bag. Then we want to lay insulation and vapor barrier material, then the floor. I’ve seen a lot on the Internet and I think what if this film accumulates water inside? And at the same time, get the insulation wet? what kind of insulation to lay on the subfloor.?
   And another question. We have taken out part of the second floor, that is, an open terrace below, and a room is obtained from above. Yesterday we put the same waterproofing on the logs of the second floor and then a 25mm board. It seems like they wanted to save the room from the cold, but now I think that water will also accumulate. Then they wanted to put a heater from below and again we don’t know what’s next, probably waterproofing is more correct. In stores, sellers only advise her everywhere, but according to experiments on the Internet, they write differently. please give advice.

2. Natalia

   I live in an apartment on the 1st floor, a basement under the floor. winter time icy. Is it possible to insulate the floor with OSB, and what kind of substrate to use between the floor (wooden) and OSB, or do I need something else for insulation.

3. Maksim

   
   Thank you. I would still like to get a competent answer.

   • Alexander (Foreman)

     Good afternoon. Each material has its purpose. That is why it was invented. On the manufacturer's websites there is a specific description of the use of each membrane. Therefore, we need to specifically talk about the floor cake and specific membranes.
     If you close the tree from below with a film, then it will quickly rot, because. will have the same effect as with the ventilation pipe. Moisture will condense on the inside of the film from the room, thereby keeping the logs constantly wet. To do it right, we look at the instructions for the membranes that are used to insulate the floor.

     • Maksim

       Good afternoon. I live in a small town and do not trust the competence of sellers, tk. 99% of them, as Zadornov says - KOEKAKERS - do not know anything and do not want to know. practice shows that manufacturers do not know what they produce. I will give an example: I purchased isospan D vapor waterproofing. On the official website in the description of this product it is written: it is used for insulated and non-insulated roofs, it can be used as a temporary roof. having unpacked three rolls, I finally found instructions (out of 3 rolls there was only one) for use: it is used only for non-insulated roofs. I had to return everything to the store. instead of this steam-waterproofing, PGI was purchased by another manufacturer. on their official website there was the same description as that of isospan. after unpacking the roll, an instruction was found: not to be used as a temporary roof.
       Returning to my question, I want to clarify: a vapor-waterproofing film, if I understand correctly, allows moisture vapor to pass through in one direction, and on the other hand, it prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulation. if you stretch the film from below along the lags, then the vapors from the wood and the insulation will go into the underground, and moisture from the underground will not get into the logs and the insulation. or is it not?

       • Alexander (Foreman)

         Question accepted.

         Still an opinion: As a vapor barrier is supposed to protect from steam from inside the whole house!! construction cake, and wind-waterproofing is obliged to protect the whole cake of any structures from wind and water.
         Back to the pie above the underground. No membrane protects against steam, plus with permanent residence there is no driving force for that. so that steam from the underground climbs into the pie above the underground (if the house is not permanent and there is no ventilation of the underground, it’s another matter!). I also do not consider it necessary to protect myself from water - except for the case of gushing water from the underground up to the ceiling. Therefore, in this case, we should talk about vapor-permeable wind protection (wind protection must release steam from the cake outside). Wind protection is required to protect the cake from being blown by wind / draft / pressure difference and protect the insulation from being blown away by the wind ... Therefore, the right decision, IMHO, is the most vapor-permeable membrane with overlaps and pads and with the obligatory protection of the entire cake. Ventilation of the underground is mandatory in any scenario. as well as the vapor barrier of the entire cake immediately below interior decoration floors when overlapping on walls and gluing mandatory overlaps.

         • Maksim

           Good afternoon. actually the question is not whether to lay the film or not. I have a question: why do they lay the film TOP ON THE LAGS, AND NOT UNDER THEM?

         • Alexander (Foreman)

           And this is not right for logs without an air gap and immediately boards! This was done in the old days so that dust from glass wool does not get in and so that it does not blow into the micro-slit.
           The film also protects against possible dampness when the temperature of the floor cake changes. (condensation)

         • Maksim

           WHY IS THE FILM LAYED FROM THE TOP ON THE LOGS AND THE SUB-FLOOR, AND NOT FROM THE BELOW UNDER THE LOGS?

           I AM NOT ABOUT THE TOP LAYER OF VAPOR HYDRO-INSULATION, BUT ABOUT THE LOWER.

         • Maksim

           Let's start from the beginning. something we seem to misunderstand each other.

           I have a house made of logs on screw piles. plinth height 60 cm.
           the plinth has not yet been insulated with anything, but half a brick, purely decorative, to close the plinth. in the future I plan to insulate it with polystyrene foam from the inside 50-100 mm. air ducts were made in the basement for ventilation of the underground.
           house for permanent residence

           so: now I have 50x200 logs installed with a step of 60 cm. where to start warming the floors? from bottom to top: subfloor, vapor barrier, insulation 200mm (min wool), vapor barrier, ventilation gap (which one is needed by the way?), finishing floor (board 40)

           the whole question I have is why it is impossible to make insulation like this: from the bottom up: vapor barrier, subfloor, insulation 200mm (min wool), vapor barrier, ventilation gap (which, by the way, is necessary?), finishing floor (board 40)

         • sergey pavlovich

           Good afternoon. did not find the answer to Maxim's question.
           "Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the logs and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the lags onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or, on the contrary, will I leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to?"

           I'm very interested in the answer

         • Alexander (Foreman)

           Good afternoon. Apparently they completely forgot about the question of maxim. You need to understand the difference between a vapor barrier and a hydro barrier! It is important. The vapor barrier is laid down from the bottom of the structure to prevent the ingress of moisture during evaporation from the bottom. And the hydro-barrier, passing the moisture released by the structure (for example, the drying of wood) to the top, does not allow moisture to get from the top. Using the film itself, you thereby retain moisture ... which will lead to decay.

4. Maksim

   Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the logs and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the lags onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or, on the contrary, will I leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to?

Covering the cellar with your own hands is a responsible event that is carried out after the construction of the storage walls, their waterproofing and insulation. Depending on the type of warehouse, its ceiling may be below the ground level under the turf or rise by 100-150 cm. The choice of design depends on the availability of free space on the site, its design, the level of groundwater and the availability underground utilities common use. The higher the roof of the building, the more difficult it is to build and insulate.

Preparation

The standard design of a vegetable store consists of a base, walls, ceiling and an entrance group. The latter includes a vestibule, access hatches, doors, steps and stairs. When deciding how to block the cellar, you should choose materials that are lightweight, durable and durable. Correct solution will allow you to build a strong, well-protected external conditions a warehouse where a stable coolness will be maintained throughout the year.

The choice of ceiling design depends on the following parameters:

1. Degree of storage depth. If it is completely immersed in the ground, then a lawn, path or garden bed is arranged on top of it. It should be possible to use the ceiling as the basis for a light building - a barn, garage, gazebo or animal pen. Such projects involve the use of a powerful and durable plate that can withstand heavy loads. For elevated buildings, a light structure is sufficient, designed for snow and wind loads.
2. Foundation thickness. If the walls are made of reinforced concrete, then they can be covered even with monolithic reinforced concrete products. When building a warehouse of bricks and foam blocks, the cellar ceiling should be made as light as possible so that it does not bring down the support.

Before arranging the roof of the warehouse, the following preparatory work is carried out:

• external and internal waterproofing of the foundation;
• filling the gap between the pit and the walls with sand;
• production of armored belt over load-bearing structures.

There are various ways to cover the cellar. The choice depends on the characteristics of the site, the skills and financial capabilities of its owner.

Types of floors

Most in a simple way make the vault roof is to use reinforced concrete slabs. Hollow inside the product should be chosen, since they have less weight and thermal conductivity than monolithic counterparts. In addition, lightweight plates practically do not bend under their own weight during operation.

When building a ceiling in a cellar with your own hands from reinforced concrete, it is necessary to use light and medium-type lifting equipment. Even a few workers will not be able to lift a product that weighs hundreds of kilograms. It is better to hire a light truck with a manipulator that will bring the plates and immediately install them in place. The downside of this solution is that the reinforced concrete products have fixed dimensions and the barn will have to be designed for them, and not for your needs.

You can make a basement ceiling with your own hands from concrete without cars. The technology of such work involves pouring concrete directly above the warehouse. The advantage of this solution is the savings on the rental of equipment for the transportation and unloading of finished products. In addition, you can immediately provide holes for ventilation pipes, power cables and even plumbing.

The arrangement of the ceiling in the cellar with your own hands can be done without the use of heavy cement mixture. This process is similar to installing a floor or roof in wooden house. The basis of the design are wooden logs, which are sheathed with several layers of insulating and waterproofing materials.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging the floor

Let us consider in detail how reinforced concrete floor slabs are made for the cellar. Land owners choose this material because of its strength, durability and resistance to dampness.

For work you will need:

• concrete mixer;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• level;
• hammer;
• axe;
• screwdriver;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• bars;
• boards;
• steel wire.

The ceiling in the cellar is built in the following sequence:

1. Arrangement of formwork around the perimeter of the structure. The boards are attached to rebar pins driven obliquely into the wall.
2. Installation of the shield between the walls. Its bottom is sealed with a plastic film to prevent the solution from flowing out.
3. Production of a two-level spatial frame from reinforcement. Carrying out its fixation with anchors.
4. Installation of mortgages for skipping communications and attaching additional parts.
5. Mixing concrete mortar. The proportion of water, cement, sand and gravel is 2:1:3:3. It is continuously poured into the formwork. Air is removed from the mixture with a pin or vibrator.
6. Leveling the surface of the plate. The solution can be corrected within 3-4 hours after pouring.

The roof must stand still for 25-28 days for the concrete to gain strength. All this time, it must be moistened daily with water and covered with a film to prevent cracking. After that, the ceiling is sealed and further finished in accordance with the project.

Ventilation

In most cases, the basement floor is used for laying an exhaust ventilation duct. It is designed to remove warm air saturated with moisture, odors and fumes from the room. The pipe should be raised as high as possible to ensure high-quality traction. It is better to install the exhaust outlet on the side of the ceiling opposite to the one where the supply pipe is located. If the roof over the cellar is made of slate and other fragile material, it is advisable to run the pipe along the walls.

The supply channel should be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm. This is necessary so that the air passing through it heats up in winter and cools down in summer heat. The pipe is brought into the room 5-10 cm above the floor level.

It is recommended to close the upper sections of the supply and exhaust lines with a fine steel mesh to protect against insects, rodents and amphibians. To prevent water and snow from getting into the pipes during precipitation, plastic or tin umbrellas are installed on them. To improve traction, air conditioning systems can be equipped with fans that provide forced pumping of moist air.

Floor insulation

When deciding how to make a ceiling over the cellar, one should not forget about the need for its high-quality insulation. It should be remembered that heat and dampness penetrate the room through a poorly insulated roof.

For this purpose, the following materials can be used:

1. A mixture of cement and sawdust. The layer thickness must be at least 30 cm. A bitumen or PVC film waterproofing is applied on top of it. When used internally, the cement is treated with a lime solution.
2. Basalt wool. Plates have low thermal conductivity and low weight. Great for insulating the ceiling in the basement of a private house. Cotton wool is covered with a membrane film, after which it is plastered or sheathed with a hard lining.
3. Styrofoam. It has low thermal conductivity and specific gravity. Attached to the plate cement mortar followed by fixation with dowels. Requires external finishing for protection from ultraviolet radiation and mechanical stress.

Considering options for how to block the cellar, it is advisable to dwell on polyurethane foam. It will cost more than others, but is the most effective. Foam penetrates into cracks, fills cavities and recesses. For its application, there is no need to prepare the surface, carry out preliminary insulation, make frames and use finishing. The disadvantage is that you need to rent special equipment.

The owners of private houses use the basement to ensure the safety of the crop and conservation. The construction does not require additional space, since the cellar is located below the soil level in the foundation part of the building. In this case, it is important to carry out the overlap of the cellar in compliance with the rules of construction. This will ensure the reliability of the design, will maintain favorable humidity and temperature. Consider how to make the ceiling of the cellar on your own.

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Upon completion of the work related to the construction of walls and the implementation of waterproofing of the premises, the moment comes when it is necessary to resolve the issue of covering the cellar. In some cases, a conventional monolithic concrete slab is used for this, which is made of concrete and a reinforcing cage.

All work can be done by hand. It is very important to build a timber formwork before pouring concrete.

• Before pouring the ceiling, special supports should be mounted, which should hold the structure of the wooden formwork at the time of filling it with concrete and when it dries. In this case, the formwork must first be sealed so that the solution does not leak during the pouring process.
• The next step after creating the formwork is knitting the frame of the concrete slab. The frame, as already noted, is made of reinforcement. The distance between the individual rods should be approximately 20–25 cm. If your cellar is small in size, then one reinforcing cage is enough, but when the dimensions of the storage are significant, it is better to reinforce the slab in pairs for greater reliability. The reinforcing network should protrude beyond the walls of the cellar by several centimeters from different sides.

As soon as the work on creating the formwork and reinforcing mesh is completed, the process of pouring the concrete solution can begin, which will form the future slab. As a rule, the height of the plate does not exceed 30 cm. It is reliable, monolithic and quality ceiling that will serve you for decades.

Concrete must be poured as evenly as possible, without interruption, until the entire slab is formed. So that cavities do not form inside the structure, the solution must be subjected to vibration before pouring, which is done by regular board or special devices.

After pouring the concrete slab, you need to wait some time (about 3-4 weeks) for it to completely harden and take on its final form. According to experts, such an overlap is the most durable and effective. In addition, if desired, they can even be used as the foundation of a small outbuilding above an earthen cellar.

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Preparation

Before starting the construction of the cellar with your own hands, you must consider the following points:

• work begins with the layout of the premises;
• determine the level of groundwater. Waterproofing the room is necessary if the groundwater level is higher than the cellar floor. For this, as a rule, roofing material and brick are used. Cellar waterproofing - important point, which affects the temperature and humidity of the room.

At the end of the work related to the construction of walls and waterproofing of the premises, the question arises - how to make the ceiling of the cellar.

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Basement floors with concrete slabs

Basement floors with concrete slabs, or as they are also called “hollows”, require more money, but they are durable, not subject to fire, rotting, and in essence - this is a ready-made floor base for laying laminate, parquet, linoleum and other things.

Basement with reinforced concrete slabs

True, all the same, it will be necessary to lay a heater under the finishing material: cork or a substrate under the laminate. But this, as they say, “for later”, and at the moment when the basement has already been erected and you decide to cover it with reinforced concrete slabs, you need to do the following work:

• Purchase (issue) slabs at the plant of reinforced concrete structures or at the base building materials. For example, the cost of a hollow reinforced concrete slab measuring 1980 x 1490 x 220 mm will cost 5,100 rubles per piece. By the way, at most enterprises or warehouses you can get advice on the design strength of the material.
• Prepare a place for laying plates on the walls of the basement, that is, remove debris, hardened mortar, etc.
• Order a truck crane for a certain time and ensure free access of equipment to the place of work. The cost of renting a truck crane depends on its load capacity and boom length. In Moscow and the Moscow region, the services of a five-ton crane with a boom length of 6 to 18 m will cost 8 thousand rubles per shift. A shift is seven hours of work plus one hour for travel. You can also agree privately on the tariff: one rise is 250 rubles.
• For successful work, assistants will be required: at least four people.
• Before laying the slab, a concrete solution is placed in the places where the slab is planted on the end of the basement wall.
• During the process of mounting the plates, you must be extremely careful and turn the plates with a crowbar.
• After completion of the work, it is desirable to remove the excess solution while it has not yet solidified.

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The construction of the basement ceiling is carried out after the construction of the walls, the concreting of the base and the performance of waterproofing works. There are a number of points to consider:

• choose the material for the manufacture of the ceiling;
• study the technology of work;
• calculate the amount of necessary building materials;
• determine the overall level of costs;
• prepare tools and building materials.

To maintain a comfortable humidity, it is necessary to consider the design of the hood. Air exchange is carried out in various ways:

• natural. Ventilation is provided with the help of a supply line and an exhaust pipe due to a temperature difference;
• forced. To improve circulation efficiency, a small-sized fan unit is used.

By doing all the activities yourself, you can save a lot of money.

Before making any cellar, the level of groundwater is taken into account

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When the box is prepared (walls, floor are concreted and waterproofed), a ceiling is built in the basement. It is necessary to determine what is better to make a ceiling from? After answering this serious question, you can calculate the need for materials and begin work.

It is convenient when the basement is located in the room where the vehicle is stored. Having done all the work in the garage with your own hands, you can save financial resources, as you will not involve professional builders. To reduce costs, pre-determine necessary materials, find out the prices at which they can be purchased. This will allow you to estimate the overall level of spending.

What types of ceilings can be installed on the cellar?

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The specifics of the installation of precast-monolithic slabs

The ceiling in the cellar can be formed using prefabricated monolithic slabs. To carry out construction activities, order special lifting equipment, which will significantly speed up the work.

Precast-monolithic slabs are blocks that are laid between steel beams and then poured with a small layer of concrete.

There are a number of difficulties associated with increased tolerances for the length and width of the plates. They may simply not match the actual storage sizes. Considering that the length of the slabs is from 9 to 12 meters, before installation, they should be compared with the dimensions of the building. If it is planned to use monolithic-prefabricated slabs, it is advisable to take this into account at the design stage. The size of the basement room in width must correspond to the parameters of the installed plate.

If the dimensions of the slabs correspond to the basement, installation is carried out using a crane. Perform activities in the following sequence:

• connect structural elements using steel profiles;
• fill the cavities in the joints with a heat-insulating composition;
• pour concrete mortar joint planes;
• lay the roofing material on the surface using bituminous mastic.

Are you having difficulty how to make the ceiling of the cellar? Use a prefabricated structure made of solid reinforced concrete slabs, which are characterized by a low price and can reduce construction time.

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What designs of ceilings for the cellar are used

For the construction of the basement ceiling, various solutions are used:

• solid concrete slabs reinforced with reinforcement;
• prefabricated reinforced concrete ceilings made of standard elements;
• beam structures made of wood;
• durable beams made from rolled metal.

Let us dwell in detail on the features of each option and construction technology.

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Ventilation

When choosing options for how to block the cellar, it is necessary to think over the installation of ventilation in advance. At the stage of the overlap device, it is recommended to make holes for the installation of ventilation pipes in the future.

The safety of products in storage largely depends on high-quality ventilation. The best ventilation will be provided by two pipes, one of which will be exhaust and the other supply. The pipes are placed diagonally in opposite corners, due to which the air circulation will be more intense.

One of the asbestos-cement pipes should be lowered almost to the basement floor and not reach it by 15-20 cm. The other pipe should be installed almost at the level of the basement ceiling and protrude no more than 5-7 cm.

No objects should be placed near the pipes so as not to obstruct the air flow. To prevent precipitation, debris, penetration of insects and rodents into the cellar, above ventilation pipes caps are mounted, and a metal mesh is installed inside the pipe.

When installing two pipes in the cellar, the optimum temperature and humidity conditions will be observed. For a small room, it is enough to install one exhaust pipe. It may be necessary to dry the room.

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We make a floor in the basement of wood

Using a wooden beam structure is a proven method for arranging a basement floor.

Sequence of work:

1. Saturate the wood with an antiseptic.
2. Waterproof the supporting planes of the beams with roofing material.
3. Install the beams on the end surface of the walls, fix them.
4. Attach boards to the beams, lay the heat-insulating material.
5. Cover the thermal insulation with sheet roofing material.
6. Fill the resulting structure with soil or fill it with a thin layer of screed.

To ensure the rigidity of the structure, it is important to install the bars in pre-prepared grooves.

The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation.

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Option on load-bearing beams

To make a high-quality ceiling for your cellar, you can use load-bearing beams. metal beams are best suited for this. If possible, you can even use conventional rails, which can often be purchased at construction warehouses or scrap metal collection points. Often the beams from which it is supposed to make the ceiling of the structure are ordered individually at factories.

Even ordinary rails are suitable as load-bearing beams.

When choosing this method of creating a cellar ceiling, at the stage of its construction, it is necessary to provide for the presence of special holes in the walls that are required for attaching the supporting beams. The ceiling of your cellar will experience significant stress. That is why the walls must also be as strong as possible, able to withstand the weight of the beams and soil poured from above. By and large, the walls will be the "foundation" for the ceiling.

For laying beams in the walls, special holes are provided.

The order of work is as follows:

1. The load-bearing beams are laid in pre-prepared holes in the wall. By and large, this work can be done independently, but with several assistants, because even the rails have significant weight.
2. In the space that will be formed after laying the load-bearing beams, it is necessary to mount reinforcing bars, and then fix them with a special wire. Next, the reliability of the connection and the stability of the beams are checked. If all is well, then a wooden formwork is made and a waterproofing layer is applied to it.
3. After the installation of the formwork, it is necessary to install supports that will be designed to take on the load of the cement mortar.
4. Cement mortar can be mixed with your own hands or ordered ready-made at any construction company. The solution should be poured as evenly as possible and without long breaks. metal carcass. All compartments of the frame must be filled with concrete, something must not be missed. Upon completion of the pouring, the solution is distributed over the entire thickness of the structure.
5. The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation. In principle, any heat-insulating material is suitable for this.

As a result, you get a reliable floor slab that can withstand heavy loads. The ceiling of the cellar in this case will be perfectly reinforced, insulated and will not cause problems during operation. The resulting overlap after all insulation work must be covered with soil, making a small mound. In some cases, additionally establishes gable roof, which will protect the cellar from the penetration of precipitation.

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Exterior finish

Petr Kravets

Reading time: 4 minutes

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Owners country houses often you have to build a cellar partially or completely buried. Such storages, located below the soil surface, can significantly save space on the site when only the entrance to the storage is equipped.

Underground structures do not freeze through even when there are severe frosts, which is why it is so important to properly close the room so that there is an optimal temperature and humidity inside, which ensures the safety of products and workpieces.

Starting to build a cellar, you should decide in advance how to block the cellar, so as not to get out of the estimate and do the work efficiently and quickly.

Equipping the ceiling in the cellar, what to make the ceiling from, you need to decide when construction is still underway. Consider the main types of possible arrangement. Some of them are applicable to basements in private homes.

Floor types

When the foundation pit is equipped and the walls of the cellar are made, it is worth considering how to make the ceiling of the cellar with your own hands. The materials and cost of such a design are very important for the overall estimate for the work, therefore it is necessary to understand each type of ceiling and the features of the work on arranging the ceiling.

As a rule, the ceiling of the cellar is made with a flat ceiling, but in some cases it can be made domed. Such a vaulted ceiling will provide a comfortable microclimate of the room, since the air masses in it are mixed differently than in other arrangement options.

Some scientists claim that the arched ceiling gives a special aura and energy to the room, which contributes to better conservation fresh vegetables than in buildings with a flat roof.

Concrete ceiling

How to fill the ceiling in the cellar with concrete so that there are no collapses and damage to the base of the structure? It is important to calculate the loads in advance, find out how to fill the cellar with a mixture, determine the sequence of work and the features of concreting buildings of any configuration.

Monolithic slab

Overlapping the cellar with your own hands in the form of a monolithic slab is carried out using a frame of reinforcing rods, poured with concrete mortar. With this design, there is no need to use special equipment, cranes, which will significantly save time and cost estimates for construction.

To start work, you need to prepare plywood (15-20 mm thick), beams for the frame, bars and racks for support, concrete mortar, reinforcement and wire for strapping.

The sequence of work, how to make a ceiling in the cellar of concrete:

• The overlap must be made so that it is located on the walls of the structure, which will themselves serve as its support. It is necessary to make special beams for support, on which the formwork will be located. This design will help maintain the integrity of the poured concrete slab, even when it hardens;
• The boards from which the formwork is made must be sealed so that the solution does not flow out during pouring. It is also important to impregnate all parts with antiseptics. The weight of reinforced concrete will reach 500 kg per square meter if a layer of 20 centimeters is poured. The formwork is placed along the perimeter of the building;
• After the installation of the formwork is completed, a frame is erected from the reinforcement inside, it can be either rods or a mesh. When it is installed, it is necessary to observe the correct uniform distance between the bars, as a rule, about 20 centimeters. The lower ends of the rods should rest on the beams as a supporting structure. Such an iron frame protrudes beyond the edges of the plate by 4 centimeters on each side;
• As soon as the rows of reinforcement are laid horizontally and vertically, all elements of their connections must be tied with wire, observing the cell dimension of 15-20 mm. After the installation is completed, the frame is checked for the strength of all joints;
• After the mesh is installed, concreting begins. The process is carried out extremely quickly from cement mortar as a binder, sand and crushed stone. The height of the slab to be poured should be about 20 centimeters;
• The concrete mass must be poured into the formwork evenly, without interruptions, to the very end of the slab. It is important to observe a single direction of filling, avoiding voids. To avoid this, the solution is subjected to vibration. You can use a special vibrating rail, or you can use ordinary wooden bars;
• At the end of the work, the concrete mass is closed from the sun, rain or wind. Protect the plate from mechanical damage. After 3 weeks, the formwork is removed.

A layer of reinforcement will be sufficient, but to increase the strength of the structure, you can make repeated, additional reinforcement. As soon as the pouring is over, the concrete is left to harden, waiting for about a month, during which time it acquires the necessary strength.

Experts recommend using monolithic slabs for cellar floor slabs, since this solution is the most durable, reliable and practical. The surface formed by a slab of concrete can be the foundation for another structure built on top of the structure.

Overlapping on wooden beams is done very easily with the help of railway rails. They can be bought at scrap metal collection points, or they can be ordered from industrial shops. In order for the installation of the beams to be correct, special beds are made for them, which securely fix the steel structure.

The beams are fixed in the walls of the storage, and henceforth they do not pop out under any load. The walls in this case are the foundation relative to the beams.

The sequence of work on arranging the ceiling on the beams is as follows:

• Rows of reinforcement are placed between the beams, which are fastened together with a knitting wire;
• After arranging the reinforcing mesh between the beams, they begin to make a wooden formwork, on which layers of waterproofing are placed;
• Frames are placed under the formwork, which will hold the mass of the concrete solution;
• As soon as the frame is completed, concrete mixtures are poured, prepared independently or purchased as a ready-made solution;
• Concrete is poured evenly and slowly;
• The ceiling is insulated as soon as the concrete reaches the required strength. You can use any insulation, even roofing material.

Prefabricated-monolithic slabs

Prefabricated monolithic slabs can create a solid floor, you just need to take into account the involvement of construction equipment in the estimate, a construction crane with loading, for example. This process is quite long. There are other disadvantages, in particular, the size of the plate - standard sizes do not always fit.

The longest prefabricated-monolithic floor slab is from 9 to 12 meters. Before starting installation, you need to make sure that these dimensions are suitable for the building. It is important to consider that the area occupied by the basement should not be larger than the slab itself.

• The plates are interconnected by steel beams;
• All hollow parts of the joints are filled with a heat insulator, which will keep warm air inside the room;
• After insulation work, layers of waterproofing are placed on the slab in the form of sheets of roofing material and bituminous mastic.

The plates are optimal material to equip the ceiling of the cellar in the garage. Such a design is quickly and easily erected, and the price is not too high.

Making a cellar in a garage seems convenient in many respects, in particular, the floor in the garage will be the ceiling for the underground room. The heat of the upper room will not let the cold and heat into the storage.

wooden floor

The wooden floor for the cellar can be made with your own hands from wood - beams of suitable size. For this you need:

• Install the beams on the walls;
• Bars are attached to the side parts of each beam so that there are supports for the roll boards;
• Homemade reel is laid with self-tapping screws;
• A layer of vapor barrier is made, which is covered with heat-insulating material
• The structure is sheathed with plywood treated with special antiseptic solutions;
• The entire resulting structure is coated with bitumen-based mastic and covered with layers of overlapping roofing material. Soil is poured from above if it is not planned to build a ground part.

In the case of such an arrangement, the floor slab will act as a floor for the next floor. Such floors can be insulated inside the upper room. Installing a hardwood floor is as easy as pouring concrete into a cellar ceiling, only it takes less time to set up.

Wood for flooring is not the best, because it is vulnerable to moisture and rots over time!

Ceiling insulation

Temperature and humidity are very dependent on the ceiling and its insulation. Good conditions indoors can provide high-quality thermal insulation, for which cement mortar mixed with sawdust is used. The thickness of such a layer can be 2-4 centimeters. Application is done special tool so that there are no irregularities.

Filling the cellar ceiling requires subsequent mandatory thermal insulation in any case. As a rule, the floors are made double: a 20 cm layer of expanded clay or earth is poured on top, and the main heat-insulating layer passes from below.

There are two options for insulating the ceiling: under a heated living space and under a garage and some unheated building.

Underground cellar

If the main covering of the storage is equipped with high-quality thermal insulation, the ceilings can be insulated with only a small thermal insulation layer of materials, covering it on top with a plastic coating for decoration.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• Penetrating waterproofing impregnation;
• Pasting the ceiling with insulation;
• Vapor barrier layer, if non-cement-bonded insulation boards were used.

Cold storage cellar

If it is impossible to insulate the base of the floor, in particular, when placed under a garage or other outbuilding, then you need to make a double layer of insulation, equipping a false ceiling. It is made of vapor-permeable material that is resistant to moisture. For example, you can take extruded polystyrene foam.