Floor insulation in a frame house on stilts. Floor insulation in a house on screw piles: features of the subfloor device, materials and methods of insulation Flooring on piles

Gender in frame house should be done according to wooden beams floors. Most often, the finished structure is in contact with the outside air. This is due to the fact that a pile screw foundation is popular for the construction of light structures. Such supports raise the building above the ground, leaving free space between it and the ceiling, which is blown by air.

The device of the floor in a frame house requires mandatory insulation. Without this, there is a high probability of mold and mildew, and walking on a cold surface is not a pleasant experience.

Pie designs

First of all, you need to make an overlap in the frame house. It will also be the black floor. The main floor beams must be securely fastened to the grillage.

It is important to know that waterproofing is required between metal piles and wooden beams. It is necessary in order to protect elements that have different characteristics especially natural moisture. For waterproofing, roll material is laid in two layers. You can use roofing felt, linokrom or hydroisol. Sometimes outdated roofing felt or glassine is found. It is not recommended to use them.

load-bearing base of the floor frame house can be done in two ways:

• using the main beams;
• using main and secondary beams.

Secondary beams or simpler logs allow you to increase the pitch of the main beams. But this option increases the scope of work, increases the consumption of materials and the thickness of the floor.

Proper Paul Pie

In the absence of secondary main beams are also used as logs. The correct pie in this case looks like this (listed from bottom to top):

• cranial bars with a section of up to 50x50 mm, which are attached to the side at the bottom bearing beams overlaps;
• filing from boards;
• moisture and wind protection;
• load-bearing beams with insulation between them;
• vapor barrier material;
• subfloor boards or chipboard about 16 mm thick.

How to make a floor in a frame house

As floor beams, a beam or edged board with a cross section of 5x15 cm is taken on average. The exact dimensions depend on the length of the span and the pitch of the elements. Boards are installed so that the larger side is vertical, and the smaller one is horizontal. When mounted on the contrary, the bearing capacity is greatly reduced.

All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic before use. Such a substance allows you to protect the floor cake in a frame house from rotting and mold. Additionally, flame retardant treatment can be performed. This will increase the resistance of structures to fire and make the house safer.

To make a floor in a frame house with your own hands, the main floor beams and at the same time the logs are fixed to the foundation grillage on piles. Elements must be placed on top. Side mount does not provide high reliability. There are two ways: with or without a cut. The notch allows you to securely fix the elements, but weakens the strapping. For this reason, it is recommended to do without it.

Anchor bolts are used as fastening tools. They are tied in a harness. To fix the beams, you will have to prepare holes in them. To do this, the logs are laid out on the anchor and hit the place of support with a hammer. A dent will remain in the right place. After making the holes, the floor beams are laid in place, and nuts are tightened on top of them on the anchor. Additionally, it is recommended to use washers. This is due to the fact that metal elements of small cross section can be sunk into soft wood.

After the installation of the main supporting structures, they proceed to fixing the cranial bars. Such elements are necessary in order to lay filing boards on them. The bars are fixed on self-tapping screws, nails or studs. Dimensions are selected depending on the load: the mass of the filing and insulation, as well as the distance between the supporting beams. Most often, bars of 50x50 mm or less are used.

Flooring is made on the cranial bars. It will serve as the base for the insulation. Fastening - on nails or self-tapping screws. For manufacturing, they take a board treated with an antiseptic, 25-40 mm thick. A waterproofing and windproof material is laid on the filing. It is fixed with a construction stapler, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape. The minimum overlap at the joints is 10 cm.

As wind protection and waterproofing, it is recommended to use modern vapor diffusion moisture and wind protection membranes. They have replaced films. The main advantage of this material is vapor permeability. The membrane does not prevent the house from “breathing” and effectively removes steam to the outside, protecting the insulation from moisture.

Insulation is laid between the supporting beams. It must be protected from internal steam with a vapor barrier. Here, too, there is a choice: films or membranes. When building your house, it is worth choosing best materials. But the membrane will cost more than the film.

The draft floor in the frame house is completed after the flooring is installed. Between it and the insulation you need to leave a gap 2-3 cm thick for ventilation. For flooring, a 40 mm thick edged board is used. The width is usually taken as 100 mm. Like all other elements, the flooring must be impregnated with an antiseptic. Boards are attached to the logs with nails or screws. It is necessary to choose galvanized fasteners that are resistant to corrosion.

Floor insulation

For thermal insulation of floors, several types of materials are used. There is no strength limit here, since the insulation fits between the log and does not perceive the payload.

Among the insulation options, the following are widely used:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam (“Penoplex”);
• penoizol (in the form of foam).

Mineral wool has become a popular option. This is justified by the favorable cost of the material, its availability and simplicity of technology. Another advantage is vapor permeability, cotton wool does not interfere with the natural ventilation of the building. In order not to have to cut the slabs, it is recommended to set the lag step so that there is a distance of 580 or 1180 mm between them in the light. This will allow the insulation to be laid tightly and without scraps.

Scheme of floor insulation with mineral wool

There are several types of mineral wool. Basalt in rigid slabs is best suited. Glass wool is inconvenient to use, and slag wool is made from industrial waste.

The thickness of the insulation is assigned according to the calculation, depending on the climatic region. On average, this will be a value from 5 to 15 cm. For accurate calculations, it is recommended to use the TEREMOK program. It is easy to find freely available as a PC application or online version. For calculations, you will need to select a settlement from the list, the type of structure being calculated, the thickness of the insulation and its thermal conductivity. The last characteristic is easy to learn from manufacturers.

Warm floor in a frame house

The construction of buildings with a warm water floor is gaining popularity. This option allows you to make your home comfortable without serious costs. Water heating costs much less than electric.

For laying pipes inside the pie, a special flooring design is used. The draft floor in this case is recommended to be made from a board not 40 mm, but 50 mm. The flooring is not made solid, but sparse. The distance between the elements is selected so that between them it is possible to lay heat-reflecting plates with heating tubes inside.

Another floor construction in a frame house with water heating is done using a cement screed. The screed is poured over a solid deck over the load-bearing beams. Due to the increased load, the flooring is made 50 mm thick.

A plastic film is placed on the boards, which will prevent the flow of cement milk. Next, a screed with a thickness of 50-70 mm is poured, having previously laid out water pipes on the floor. They must be completely hidden by concrete. A clean floor is laid on top of the screed.

The second method has a significant drawback - an increase in the load on the floor. In addition, in the event of a breakdown in the heating system, you will have to break the screed. The first option allows you to simply disassemble the floor and reassemble it.

Frame low-rise construction has long been widespread in Europe. Private "skeletons" are operated even in countries with a cold and harsh climate, and this indicates that the opinion about their inapplicability in our area is erroneous. In fact, competent insulation allows the use of frame houses both in severe frosts and in scorching heat.

The technology of frame housing construction is becoming more and more popular due to its many advantages:

• Construction cost. Materials used in frame construction, often cheaper than the materials of brick or block houses. The installation process is also less time-consuming, it is often possible to carry out the work manually without resorting to the services of expensive special equipment.
• Unification. Many companies offer ready-made kits for erection frame houses. All the little things are thought out in them, and often at the exhibition sites you can see how the future home ownership will look like. Moreover, ready-made kits can be upgraded to the needs of the buyer. Such companies have models of houses with a predetermined possibility of increasing the area due to outbuildings and add-ons without changing the overall style. This, of course, is convenient for families with children.
• Ease of construction. Frame houses have a huge difference in weight with brick or block houses. The load on the foundation of frame houses is not more than 380 kilograms per square meter. Of course, this makes it easier to build a foundation. The most popular and rational is the arrangement of a frame house on screw piles.
• landscape variety. Frame houses on screw piles can be installed on a plot of almost any landscape. Piles can compensate for a significant difference in height, allow you to build a house on a site with a high water level, in a swampy area. A frame house on screw piles can even stand above the surface of the water.

Frame house on stilts

Piles for the foundation are made of high-strength metal. They are equipped at the ends with a knife for screwing into the ground and can even be installed manually. It will take two workers no more than 30 minutes to install one pile.

Features of operation and floor insulation in a frame house

The pile foundation has a number of features. It separates the spaces of the house from the surface of the earth, in contrast to the concrete foundation, which, one way or another, connects them. This fact has both negative and positive aspects.

When the house is located in a humid area (high groundwater level directly under the house or in places with frequent rainfall), the house on screw piles is easier to waterproof. IN concrete foundation moisture from the surface of the earth rises through microcracks to the walls. In frame houses on piles, only waterproofing from moisture from the air is needed.

However, often light frame houses on screw piles are erected precisely because of the properties of the soil on the site. When the water level is high, the air is usually humid as well. Therefore, waterproofing in the construction of such houses should be given sufficient attention.

In autumn and winter, the earth cools more slowly than air, so houses on pile foundations require more serious thermal insulation. The same applies to summer, when stone houses the temperature is lower and rises more slowly than in the frame. Frame houses require high-quality and carefully executed thermal insulation.

In the spring and during thaws, a frame house has some advantage over a brick house, because it requires less heating costs.

Floor insulation in a frame house

Floor technology and insulation

In a frame house on stilts, it is carried out at the stage of its creation. The technology is quite simple, does not require high-altitude work and can even be performed independently.

When building a house made of wood or wood-based materials, it is necessary to carefully treat building materials hidden from constant access with fire protection. You can do this with fire retardants, but it is better with a penetrating compound. It is more expensive than flame retardants, but has no service life. In addition, it will be possible to save on the need to raise the floors every five years and renew the fire protection.

In the course of work, a pie of the floor of a frame house is laid on the piles, after which the underground is sewn up.
Frame House Floor Pie

Work progress:

• Logs are laid on the piles from a bar of rectangular, as a rule, section. Metal piles must first be isolated from the lag with a material such as roofing material.
• Bars are nailed to the logs, and the floor is laid from the boards of the subfloor.
• Waterproofing is being installed. It must fit the logs and go to the walls. Waterproofing can be film, but it is better to use a special perforated membrane.
• Thermal insulation is laid in the space between the logs. It can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay and much more. The main thing is that the material fits snugly against the lags and fits together, otherwise cold bridges will appear and the work will have to be redone. The insulation is laid up to the upper level of the log.
• An optional but recommended layer is a vapor barrier. A perforated membrane is laid with a mandatory entry into the walls.
• The subbase is laid from sheet material. It can be oriented - particle board or plywood. This layer is not necessary when laying, for example, a plank floor, but significantly reduces the overall thermal conductivity of the frame cake. When further finishing the floor with laminate, tiles, linoleum, carpet, etc., a sheet substrate is necessary. Moreover, it is often made two-layer for the strength of the floors.
• The "clean" floor is laid.

If the thermal insulation of the floor is carried out not at the construction stage, but in a finished house, then the installation is carried out according to the following plan:

• The upper “finishing” layer of the floor is removed.
• The subbase is dismantled, if one was laid earlier.
• If necessary, the old vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing are removed. It is unacceptable to reuse film materials, since the holes from the old fasteners have already violated the tightness of the material.
• Implemented installation work according to the previous plan, starting from point 3.

Types of heaters

Modern thermal insulation is diverse both in price and in properties. When choosing a material, you need to decide, firstly, how warm the floor should be. If the building is planned to be used only in summer, then significant insulation is not required.

In addition, determine what moisture resistance the material should have. It depends on whether additional waterproofing is needed. There are many materials for thermal insulation of the floor, consider the most common and affordable of them, consider the characteristics and features of the use for insulation of floors of frame houses:

stone wool

• Eco-friendly material - obtained from molten basalt.
• The fibers themselves do not absorb water, but due to the porous structure of the material, mandatory waterproofing is required.
• Laying on a non-continuous crate is allowed.
• Thermal insulation properties are very good.
• Due to the loose structure densely fills the space between the lag.
• Additionally, it gives a soundproofing effect.
• Average price.

Mineral wool

Styrofoam

• Extruded polystyrene foam is an environmentally friendly material.
• Very good thermal insulation.
• The plates fit well together.
• It is allowed to lay the material on a non-continuous crate.
• Easy to cut and install.
• Absolutely does not absorb moisture and does not pass steam. With tight installation, you can do without a vapor barrier.
• Not suitable for rodents.
• Modern expanded polystyrene is made with fire-fighting additives, therefore it does not burn, but, under the influence of an external fire source, it can melt with an intense release of toxic substances.
• Relatively high price.

Styrofoam

Expanded clay

• Eco-friendly material - it is made of clay.
• Does not absorb moisture, but can condense it.
• Non-combustible material, which increases the safety of the building.
• Space remains between the expanded clay granules, which can serve as a refuge for rodents.
• Mandatory wind protection and vapor protection is required.
• The weakest degree of thermal insulation of the described materials.
• Low cost.
• Expanded clay is used if a dry screed will be laid in the house.

Expanded clay

Finishing the basement as a factor in floor insulation

Finishing the plinth is the most difficult task, since any flaws in these works will be noticeable.

When decorating a house on screw piles, bricks or blocks are often used, arguing that the underground is insulated. This is definitely an incorrect statement. The frame cake completely insulates the heat of the house. The basement itself is not heated in any way and will freeze anyway. But, laying a dense brick wall around the basement, completely blocks the access of air to this space. This leads to waterlogging, to condensation, the development of fungus and swelling of the floor.

The plinth must be ventilated. If the choice of material for arranging the basement nevertheless fell on brick or concrete, then it is necessary to provide a sufficient number of ventilation holes.

But it is better to install a false - a base. Now many beautiful, durable and environmentally friendly materials are being produced for this - siding or special panels with imitation of stone, brick, wood and other textures. Installing a false plinth is not only easier to install, but can also be dismantled if necessary.

Situations are different - high water in the spring and the underground needs to be dried, the animal climbed through the ventilation holes and cannot get out, it became necessary to carry out additional communications and the like.

Although the plinth does not add thermal insulation, it performs another practical function - protecting the underground from the penetration of water from the outside (rain, melt water). To do this, the docking unit between the false plinth and the blind area is sealed using rolled waterproofing.

The blind area of ​​the building can be poured from concrete, paving slabs and any other materials can be laid. But, firstly, the blind area must have a mandatory slope from the building, and, secondly, be sealed from the underground and false - the base.

Plinth finish

Warming the floor of a frame house on piles is a simple technological process, but the convenience of living in it will depend on the quality of the work. Even before the start of work, you need to carefully study the nuances, do not save on the choice of materials, carefully and correctly mount them - and the warm floor will delight the inhabitants of the house for many years.

The advent of frame technology for the construction of private houses made it possible to increase the speed of construction by several times and reduce financial costs. In particular, this applies to situations where a pile foundation is used as the foundation for the building. Its arrangement does not require labor-intensive excavation. There is a reverse side of the coin in this technology. Since the foundation is not solid, and is raised above the ground, the floor of the frame house on screw piles from below is completely open. If not accepted additional measures on its insulation, this will inevitably lead to serious heat losses. In the future, they have to be compensated by an increase in the cost of additional heating of the house.

The house on screw piles, as it were, hangs in the air, and a draft can often walk under it Source kak-sdelat-fundament.ru

Features of the construction of the building on piles

As a rule, a pile foundation is used in the following cases:

When administering construction works on problem soils (loose, weak, heaving, stony, swampy).

If the site is not even, but with differences in height. This often happens when a building is built on the side of a mountain or hill.

When there is not enough money for a more expensive monolithic foundation.

Short construction time. As a rule, in such cases, a frame or wooden house is erected on a pile-screw foundation.

The inability to drain excessively wet soil on the site.

The basis of such a foundation are screw piles. This is about metal pipes equipped with a special tip at the end (its shape may differ). The method of driving screw piles into the soil is very specific: they are not driven with accented blows, but are screwed in manually or mechanized way. In the course of rotation, the pile with its cone-shaped tip bites into the thickness of the earth. To increase the reliability of fastening, the soil is compacted in the course of work.

The piping of the pile foundation is ready for further work. Source stroyfora.ru

To achieve an even distribution of the load from the weight of the building, the tops of the screwed piles are cut at the same level and equipped with heads. A continuous piping (grillage) is arranged over the heads, which combines the supports into one load-bearing structure. The grillage can be steel, wood or concrete. In the future, it is the strapping that becomes the basis for arranging the floor and walls of the house. Before mounting the piping elements on the pile heads, they lay waterproofing material(penofol, roofing material or polyethylene). This will protect the floor surface from excessive moisture.

Floor arrangement

When choosing suitable material for a floor in a frame building on a pile foundation, it is recommended to pay attention not only to its strength characteristics, but also to its mass. It is desirable that it be as small as possible, which will save the building supports from unnecessary loads. Most suitable option is wood (it is desirable to give preference to aspen, oak or conifers). It must be well dried and free from visible damage.

The base of the floor should start with quality wood - it needs to withstand a lot of stress Source stroy-brus.ru

The arrangement of the floor of the frame building begins immediately after the construction of the pile foundation and the laying of the grillage. In combination with a wooden floor, when constructing the strapping, it is recommended to use beams with a section of 10x10 cm made of coniferous wood. If the distance between the individual supports for the beams exceeds 3 m, additional racks are installed in the middle of the span.

Logs are mounted on top of the fixed beams: their laying step is 50 cm. The recommended section of the log is 10X25 cm. Small spans (under the bathroom or corridor) can be covered with a 5x15 cm bar. Strapping elements are equipped with seats for the width of the lag. The bars laid in the cuts are fastened to the base with screws, nails or self-tapping screws.

For reliable protection From moisture and harmful insects, the load-bearing structures of the floor are impregnated with an antiseptic liquid. On the lower cut, the logs are sheathed with a board of 30x30 mm. To make the floor structure stronger, in some cases, additional jumpers are used, stuffed over the log in increments of 150 cm. This is usually required when using a heated concrete screed inside the frame house. In all other cases, floor insulation is carried out separately.

Jumpers will add a certain strength to the floor Source 1karkasnydom.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of frame houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Appointment of floor insulation in a pile house

The main feature of a frame building on piles is the presence free space between the ground and the back of the floor. As a result, it is through the lower ceiling that the most significant heat leakage occurs. This is especially true for structures that are not protected around the perimeter by a false plinth: in this case, the cold wind in winter time freely "walks" in the underground. It should also be noted that the pile foundation is often used on swampy soils: in this case, not only cold, but also moisture affects the building from below.

If we neglect additional measures for effective thermal insulation of the floor, the owners of the house will have to face the following problems:

Financial costs in the cold season will increase significantly, as significant heat losses will have to be compensated by an increase in the temperature of heating radiators. If this is not done, the house will be very uncomfortable.

Accumulation of condensation moisture inside the technical underground. Condensation will begin to form on the surface of the cold floor.

Due to constant moisture, wooden structural elements will rot and become covered with mold and fungus.

Competent floor insulation in a house on screw piles will help to protect yourself from the listed negative phenomena.

A layer of insulation is laid between the jumpers, the cracks are “blown out” with foam. Source 9dach.ru

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of reconstruction and restructuring of houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

What insulation to use

Insulation for the floor of a frame building on a pile foundation, in addition to the ability to retain heat well, should be light, easy to install and have excellent moisture resistance.

Styrofoam

Enough good insulation widely used due to its low cost. However, it should be taken into account that the freezing of the foam impregnated with moisture provokes its gradual destruction. As a result, its thermal insulation characteristics drop sharply, and the cold gets direct access to the room. The use of foam plastic is only allowed in combination with reliable moisture protection.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a more expensive modification of the foam. It is characterized by excellent strength properties and the almost complete absence of water absorption. This allows the material to endure low temperatures in conditions of constant humidity. To communicate fire-resistant qualities to the penoplex, flame retardants are introduced into its composition.

Mineral wool

A great option to equip a warm floor in a frame house. This material is characterized by high thermal insulation characteristics and absolute non-combustibility. Mineral wool is not afraid of any biological influences.

Builders prefer to use mineral wool as a heater. Source krutopol.com

Weaknesses of the material:

Poor moisture tolerance. If water gets on the surface of the insulation, it provokes subsidence and a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.

High cost. For the purchase of mineral wool, you will have to pay an order of magnitude more money than for penoplex.

This material is produced in the form of plates and rolls. The first option is more convenient for thermal insulation of the floor in a building on a pile foundation. Plates have an advantage in rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress.

Expanded clay

In houses on screw piles, this insulation is used quite rarely, due to its low thermal insulation characteristics. To achieve the desired insulating effect, you have to pour a layer of decent thickness: this hides the living space and makes the overall weight of the structure heavier. Those who still decide to use expanded clay for floor insulation on piles are attracted by the considerable simplicity of its installation.

Pile foundations have gained massive popularity due to their relatively low price and the ability to use them in poor soil conditions. Such structures are quickly mounted and can be used for almost any type of structure. Insulation of the floor cake in a frame house on piles has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account in order to avoid problems during further operation.

When erecting a building on screw piles, it must be taken into account that the house does not have a basement or basement, but there is a ventilated underground. Such foundations are used mainly in swampy areas, so another important factor in operation will be the increased humidity of the space under the house.

When building a house on screw foundations it is important to pay great attention to the performance characteristics of the insulation and additional layers.

As a reliable protection of thermal insulation material and interior spaces from high humidity will be waterproofing and vapor barrier, the neglect of which will soon lead to serious problems.

The composition of the floor of the frame house

Bottom view of the floor of the house on stilts

To build a ceiling over a ventilated space, you need to lay the layers in the following order:

• carrier wooden frame(with a subfloor "carrying" a heater);
• a layer of vapor-permeable wind protection (to protect the insulation from "weathering");
• thermal insulation material;
• steam and waterproofing;
• clean floor construction (board + finishing floor).

Scheme of floor insulation for a house on stilts

All materials for a building on screw foundations must be laid in this order. In some sources, the erroneous laying of the vapor barrier on the cold air side is given, but this does not make sense. Steam forms in a warm room and settles on colder surfaces, thus forming condensation. In order to prevent the penetration of condensate into the heat-insulating layer and reduce the degree of protection of the building from the cold, a vapor barrier is provided.

Why is insulation necessary?

The need for heat-insulating material is not always clear to a person far from construction. From the point of view of the future owner of the house, it is much easier to build on bearing capacity designs.

Neglect of thermal insulation standards can lead to the following problems during the operation of the building:

• condensation on the surface of the ceiling on the technical underground;
• reduced building energy efficiency and increased heating costs;
• high humidity leads to rotting of wood, the appearance of mold and fungus, as a result of which wooden structures quickly fail and require costly repairs.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house allows you to avoid these troubles and ensure a long service life of the building and all its structures separately.

Materials for insulation

Attention should be paid not only to the insulation material, but also to vapor barrier, waterproofing and wind protection.

The choice of insulation

Can be used as an insulating layer various materials. It is important to consider the possibility of operation in conditions of high humidity. The most rational solutions are the following options:

Mineral wool insulation. Mineral wool has a large number of advantages, including incombustibility, high thermal insulation characteristics. Not subject to biological influences. The disadvantages include the fact that if water gets on the material, it sags and loses its properties. Compared to other types, this insulation has a fairly high cost. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and plates. For the floor of a house on screw foundations, it is better to use slab insulation, since it has greater rigidity. Depending on the type of feedstock, stone, glass and slag wool are distinguished. It is important that when working with the material, builders need to have protective equipment: overalls, gloves, a mask.

Styrofoam attractive in price and has good thermal protection. It is worth considering that when exposed to low temperatures at high humidity, it can crumble into small balls. Such damage leads to a violation of the thermal protection of the building. If foam is used, it is important to protect it most carefully from moisture penetration.

(known to everyone as "Penoplex") outwardly very similar to polystyrene, but devoid of its main drawbacks. The material has higher strength and low water absorption. Thanks to this, you can not be afraid for its destruction at low temperatures. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam is produced with special additives that allow it to fall into the group of non-combustible materials. The heat-shielding characteristics of these three materials are almost identical.

As another cheap option for insulating the floor of a house on screw piles, you can bring expanded clay. It is inferior in terms of thermal insulation to all other materials, but is affordable. It is nonflammable and easy to work with. Represents particles of transverse clay of a rounded shape.

Selection of related materials

The next step is to choose waterproofing and wind protection. Modern manufacturers produce materials that combine both of these functions at once. The design of the floor in the house on screw piles is somewhat reminiscent of an inverted pie mansard roof, for the construction of which builders often use moisture-windproof vapor-permeable membranes. Such a multifunctional material allows you to save time on laying.

A vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. It can serve as an ordinary plastic film. In addition, you can purchase special materials.

All wooden frame elements are necessarily treated with antiseptic compounds. This helps protect them from fungus, mold and insect damage.

Mounting process

Laying the floor cake in a frame house on screw piles is carried out in the following order:

1. Layout of load-bearing beams (lag);
2. attachment parallel to the joists cranial bars small section;
3. styling boardwalk or plywood;
4. fixed on top of the flooring vapor-permeable wind protection;
5. installation insulation differs depending on the selected type (laying, backfilling);
6. over the heat-insulating layer is laid out and fixed polyethylene film or glued special vapor barrier material;
7. construction erection floor covering.

All the nuances of the technology are disclosed in more detail in this video:

The installation process is quite simple, and you can do it yourself, which significantly reduces the financial costs of construction.
Subject to all the rules, the correct order of laying the layers of the floor cake for the house on screw piles and a responsible attitude to the choice of materials, the future owner receives a reliable and durable structure that will protect the building from the penetration of cold. Self-laying allows you to carefully control the quality of construction.

Foundations on screw piles are not uncommon in frame housing construction. Taking into account the features of the building, a number of requirements are imposed on the floor of the first floor. The base must be not only strong, but light, so as not to create an excessive load on the piles. No less significant is the thermal insulation aspect. How to combine these characteristics and properly equip the floor? Let's try to figure it out.

The specifics of the floor and the requirements for its arrangement

The foundation of a frame on screw piles has many advantages. Among the main advantages are:

• affordable cost;
• short construction time;
• versatility - suitable for sites from complex relief and floating soils.

Despite significant advantages, the floor of a frame house on screw piles has a clear drawback - a ventilated underground. Therefore, one of the main tasks of arranging the base is high-quality insulation and waterproofing. Thermal insulation cake solves a number of problems:

• acts as a barrier between wooden structures and moisture, preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the floor;
• improves the energy efficiency of the home;
• prevents the formation of condensation on the surface of the floors.

In the course of flooring work, it is necessary to take into account a number of important points and requirements. The builder must ensure:

1. Treatment of the lower strapping of the floor with an antiseptic. A deep penetration penetrating compound should be used, since conventional impregnation disappears after 6-7 years.
2. Placement of insulation between the lags.
3. Pickup for piles. Thermal insulation of the basement reduces heat loss, prevents the soil from freezing under the house and is part of the decor.
4. Ventilation products. Arrangement of holes with a diameter of 10 cm, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bvent ducts is 1/400 of the basement perimeter.

General floor plan of a frame house

The upper strapping of the beams along the fundamental supports is at the same time lags, which in itself reduces the cost of the construction budget. The structural floor cake in a frame house on stilts has the following scheme:

1. Draft floor. The basic base is assembled from the crate and the bottom filing. As a substrate are used: edged board, chipboard, OSB or multilayer plywood.
2. Waterproofing. The best option– perforated membrane, alternative – film.
3. Insulation. Options for thermal insulation material: basalt wool, extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay.
4. Vapor barrier. Prevents formation of condensate and wetting of a layer of a heater.
5. Underlying. The choice of further technology depends on the type of flooring.

If it is planned to lay parquet, laminate or floorboard, then on the floor laying multilayer plywood. For decoration with tiles or linoleum, a dry screed is suitable. The "water floor" system is equipped in a self-leveling screed.

Selection of structural elements and materials

Reliability, durability and heat efficiency of the floor largely depend on the materials used. Let's consider admissible options and we will designate unacceptable decisions.

Attention to the quality of floor beams

In frame housing construction, wood is mainly used for tying screw piles. Usually softwood lumber is taken: larch, pine and spruce.

The main requirement is use of dried materials. The humidity of the beam should not exceed 12%, otherwise the structural parts may be deformed after their installation.

The arrangement of the grillage is possible in several ways:

1. Laying a monolithic beam measuring 20 * 15 cm. During construction two-story house you can use a beam 20 * 20 cm.
2. Rostverk from the collected boards. A budget option. Each beam is formed from two or three boards. The output should be a beam with a section of 20 * 15 cm.

With reliable fixation of the boards, the "batch" method is not inferior in strength strapping from solid beams.

Bottom trim options

When choosing a material for the sub-base, it must be remembered that it is undesirable to overload screw piles. Therefore, the casing must be strong enough, but not heavy. Its main task is protection from wind and moisture.

What will do? Here are some options:

1. OSB. Available material, with good strength, but vulnerable to water. Before installation, it requires treatment with a compound designed to protect wood. Weakness- plate joints. They must be covered with acrylic sealant.
2. Chipboard. It is easy to process, but like OSB it is vulnerable to moisture. Inferior to the previous material in terms of environmental friendliness.
3. Multilayer plywood. It is permissible to use only moisture-resistant sheets marked FK or FSF. The composition contains formaldehyde resins - they increase the resistance of the material to an aggressive environment.

Very often, ordinary flooring made of boards with a section of 5 * 10 cm is used for the subfloor device. This option cannot be called economical, but the strength and environmental friendliness are beyond doubt. The main requirement is pre-treatment of wood.

Insulation - the basis of thermal insulation of the floor

When choosing a heat-insulating material, the main attention is on the possibility of its operation in a humid environment. The most rational solutions:

1. Mineral wool. The best solution is basalt fiber mats. Pros: environmental friendliness, incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, resistance to deformation, minimum water absorption - 2%. Over time, stone wool shrinks only 5% - with proper installation, cold bridges at the junctions with lags do not form.
2. Extruded polystyrene foam. The leader in insulating properties. Additional advantages: elasticity and resistance to deformation, lack of water absorption, biostability, ease of installation. Disadvantages: high cost and flammability.
3. Expanded clay. Budget alternative to sheet heaters. Somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation characteristics to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. An important plus is fire safety.

Styrofoam is sometimes used to insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles. The main advantages: good thermal protection and low cost. However, upon contact with moisture and under the influence of low temperatures, the material loses the integrity of the structure. This solution is applicable in warm regions.

Step-by-step floor installation on a pile foundation

Let us describe the sequence of actions for arranging and insulating the floor of the frame on screw piles. Work begins after careful preparation of wooden elements: treatment with an antiseptic and flame retardant composition.

Strapping device and fastening of the crate

Suppose that the piles are installed, the metal heads for fixing the beams are fixed. Further progress of work:

1. Drill four holes on each "sole" of the screw supports.
2. Lay waterproofing on the heads, for example, roofing material.
3. Lay out the bars along the perimeter of the structure and connect the elements to each other “in half a tree”.
4. Attach the beams to the heads with self-tapping screws.
5. Carry out the insertion of the remaining bars inside the perimeter.
6. With steel brackets, additionally connect the strapping parts.
7. Check the horizontal position of the beams.
8. Fill the crate to the bottom of the bars - the base for attaching the base.

Draft base and thermal insulation

Lay sheets of OSB, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the guide rails. If edged boards are used, they must be nailed perpendicular to the joists.

After preparing the subfloor, proceed to its isolation:

1. Cover the base with waterproofing film.
2. Place a heater in the cells between the lags. When cutting mineral wool, it is necessary to provide a margin of 0.5 cm on each side for the most snug fit and to prevent the appearance of cold bridges.
3. Spread a vapor barrier membrane over the insulation with an overlap between the sheets. Glue the joints with construction tape.

The next steps depend on the type of flooring.

Creating a plinth thermal circuit

The device of the floor in the house on stilts without fail provides for driving the basement. The following insulation options are available:

1. Brickwork. The base is a pillow of crushed stone and sand. The pick-up is laid out in half a brick, reinforcement is not necessary. For work use ceramic or clinker bricks.
2. Siding. Thermal plates are mounted on a crate made of galvanized profile or bar, assembled on piles.
3. Decking. Runs are welded to the bored posts, which serve as the basis for fastening the profiled sheet.
4. DSP. sheet material mounted by analogy with a profiled sheet. The outside can be decorated shingles, porcelain stoneware.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing the underground part, it is necessary to provide for "vents" - openings for natural ventilation.

The blind area of ​​the house is laid out from a concrete screed, paving slabs or paving stones. When arranging, it is necessary to maintain a slope angle of 4 ° outward. Be sure to seal the junction of the false plinth cladding with a blind area. This will prevent meltwater and precipitation from entering the underground.

The nuances of arranging a warm floor

Underfloor heating in a frame house on piles is carried out using a water circuit or heating mats.

Arrangement scheme

1. After installing plywood or OSB on the bars and waterproofing the subfloor, sheets of expanded polystyrene should be laid in the gaps between the lags. The top surface of the plates should be flush with the strapping.
2. Spread a vapor barrier over the insulation, leaving a supply of film around the entire perimeter based on the height of the finished floor.
3. Lay the reinforcing mesh, fill it with a thin layer of cement-sand mortar and leave until completely solidified.
4. Lay the foil backing with the shiny side up.
5. Lay underfloor heating mats and fill with concrete screed.

In the process of setting, the solution must be periodically moistened so that cracks do not appear. After the final hardening, you can lay top coat.

Video: how to make a screed

The arrangement and insulation of the frame floor on a pile foundation does not present any difficulties. But with all the simplicity of execution, the process requires the performer to be attentive and observe all technological nuances.

Floor insulation in a frame house on piles should be carried out, taking into account design features such housing. Only in this case you will not face the problem of lack of comfort indoors. When the house is installed on supporting piles, it usually has a basement or basement. This can be considered an advantage, which slowly flows into a disadvantage, which consists in blowing through the lower part of the house from all sides.

Features of insulation

Such buildings are built on swampy soils, so the space under them is characterized by a high level of humidity. In order for the house not to be adversely affected by natural factors, its flooring it is necessary to equip in several layers.

Thermal insulation cake

Floor insulation in a frame house assumes the presence of a supporting skeleton, which is combined with a subfloor. Next comes the wind protection, which is characterized by vapor permeability. It is required to protect the applied insulation material from weathering. The next layer is a heat insulator, covered with moisture and vapor barrier layers. The final floor will be finished, which is covered with boards.

How to eliminate errors

When choosing an insulating material for such a "pie", you must be guided by the fact that it must be of high quality. It is recommended to use good steam and waterproofing products that will reliably protect the premises from moisture. If the floor insulation in a frame house installed on piles is not carried out in accordance with all the rules, then you may encounter an increase in heating costs, the presence of condensate above the underground and the appearance of fungus and mold.

Pile structures can be thermally insulated using several technologies; the main requirement in this matter is the need to use materials that could be used in wet conditions. Insulation of the floor in a frame house with foam is one of the best and most rational approaches. But at low temperature and high humidity, this material breaks down into individual elements. If you want to use this thermal insulation, then you should take care that it is reliably protected from moisture.

Mineral wool is also quite common to solve the described problem. It is inert to biological influences, has high heat-shielding characteristics and is not afraid of fire. But when water penetrates inside, the protective properties of the insulation are lost. With appropriate measures, you can use any kind mineral wool, among them:

• stone;
• glass;
• slag.

This heat insulator is sold in rolls and slabs, but experts recommend using the latter option, since it has a more impressive density compared to its roll counterpart.

Insulation of the floor with foam plastic in a frame house is also carried out quite often. This material is polystyrene foam, manufactured using extrusion technology. It has low moisture absorption and high strength. These features give the material many advantages over cheap counterparts. If we compare it with polystyrene foam, then foam plastic will be more reliable.

Alternative Solutions

Warming the floor of a frame house with expanded clay is also quite common. Using this material is simple, and there is no need to resort to outside help. Expanded clay is different fire safety and low cost. But when compared with the materials mentioned above, expanded clay is inferior in terms of heat-shielding properties.

In the role of hydro- and wind-proof materials for floors on a pile foundation, vapor-permeable moisture and wind-proof membranes should be used, which are easy to install. However, you should be prepared that the cost of such substrates is quite high. As a vapor barrier, you can use a simple polyethylene film, which is laid directly on the insulation layer.

Features of floor insulation with expanded clay

The first, when the floor is insulated with expanded clay, is a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is especially relevant, because the insulation absorbs moisture well, which can cause unpleasant consequences. To achieve uniformity, before backfilling with expanded clay, it is necessary to set guide beacons that will determine the level of the future floor.

For reliable fixation of the insulation, a layer of screed is used, as well as upper waterproofing. Before applying the final top layer of the screed, the intermediate fixation layer must be poured. To do this, the cement is mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous suspension. It should be filled with a layer of expanded clay. After drying such a layer, you will be able to get a monolithic expanded clay floor, which will not be afraid of exposure to moisture and high loads. This design is able to withstand even a small earthquake. The final layer will be a screed, with which you can finally level the floor.

Step by step instructions for thermal insulation of the floor

At the first stage, a subfloor is arranged; for this, a wooden beam, which is also called cranial, is attached to the logs. It will act as a support for the finishing boards. The used wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic, at the next stage, you can proceed with the installation of the boards.

If you decide to use expanded polystyrene or polystyrene, it is recommended to lay the grid instead of the subfloor. It is fixed to the lags so that it is able to withstand the weight of the heat insulator used. Overloading piles with excess weight is not recommended. After the completion of the arrangement of the subfloor, a vapor barrier is laid on its surface. All moisture from the outside will remain outside, and it will not affect the insulation layer. This area can be vapor-insulated with a plastic film, which is quite often replaced with roofing material.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. A layer of vapor barrier should be placed on top of it, which prevents the penetration of condensate and internal moisture into the “pie”. When laying the vapor barrier, you should get rid of the gaps that may remain between the sheets of materials. Otherwise, cold bridges may occur, which are dangerous for thermal insulation, because they will soon destroy the structure of the material.

At the next stage, you can proceed to laying the final floor, using chipboard, floorboard, sheets of plywood or other products. Floor insulation in a frame house should be accompanied by the protection of piles with a stationary base. In this case, snow will not fall under it. But if you do not intend to build a warm space or you do not have the opportunity to do so, then the supporting elements should be closed with a decorative plinth, which is characterized by fast installation and low cost.

Floor insulation through the plinth

When the floor is insulated in a frame house, you can close the base with your own hands using one of the existing methods for this. What is used for brick or rubble masonry, frame imitation of the basement, the last of which allows you to equip an analogue of a ventilated facade. If you decide to use masonry, then the fence must be built using brick halves. The first row should be laid on a pre-arranged sand cushion, which is well rammed.

The fence must be waterproofed using roofing material. Proper insulation the floor of a frame house necessarily involves the thermal insulation of the basement. For this, its imitation can be used. This technique allows you to complete the work in the shortest possible time, saving money. The frame is made by installing a crate from wooden beams or galvanized profile. They must be installed directly on piles. This design at the next stage is sheathed with roofing material, PVC sheets are installed on top, which imitate stone or brick. Polyvinyl chloride products are strengthened with nails or universal self-tapping screws. The first option is suitable for wooden crate, while the second is for a metal profile.

Double thermal insulation

Double insulation of the floor of a frame house involves the use of double floor technology. From the name it is clear that the flooring from the boards will have to be done twice, but the boards will be different. The draft floor will be equipped with unhewn boards that fit well together. A layer of roofing material is laid on top, which will protect the wooden floor.

The next layer will be sand, the height of which should be between 3 and 5 cm. Next, the sand is covered with plastic wrap, reinforced with nails or a construction stapler. The next layer will be thermal insulation, which is pre-cut into pieces. Should be laid on top chipboard on which the finishing floor will be laid.

Features of cross thermal insulation

Cross floor insulation in a frame house is also used quite often. When the basement is equipped with beams with the following sizes: 200 x 500 mm, the thickness of the insulation should be 200 mm. The upper layer of thermal insulation should be perpendicular to the lower layers, which gives the name of the technology.

Conclusion

Floor insulation in a house with a foundation on piles can be carried out thoroughly, but if you want to experiment, then thermal insulation can be done even with the help of carpet. This method is great for those owners who have not yet decided to open the floor.

To do this, use a material that is similar in characteristics to ordinary carpets. The carpet will be laid over the entire floor area of ​​the room, affecting the perimeter. This approach will close the gaps on the concrete and wooden floor, through which cold air penetrates from the basement.

Why do I not use a wind-moisture protective film in the lower floor of a frame house on piles or on a tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about the undercoat pie in general and VVZ film/membrane in particular.

The lower ceiling of a frame house in Naziia, there is no film on the bottom

First of all, let's address the question of constructiveness. The above photo shows the triple strapping on which the floor logs rest. This is one of the options for tying screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already considered this issue in detail in the note “dispute about the lower ceiling”, although that note is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one that I like best), so I see no reason to repeat myself.

We protect the frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we are approaching the choice of the "pie" of the overlap, that is, what and in what order should be laid there. And we always start with protection from small rodents that can settle in a heater if no action is taken.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent net, bottom cover of the frame on the tape

In this photo you see the lower ceiling of the frame in Lomonosov, it was built on a ready-made old tape. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles, and not a tape, we would first make a strapping and stretch the mesh in the same way. Like this:

In the photographs above, the bottom overlap of the frame at the SVF in Kiskelovo, the mesh is sandwiched between the bottom trim and the board lying flat on the heads. In the case of a variant with a triple lower piping and overlapping joists on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the piping. The bottom line is that the mesh is immediately under the insulation, so as not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - not to let it sag or fall out.

This is how the finished harness and stretched mesh look from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower floor and rodent net

Usually we use a woven metal galvanized mesh 0.7mm with a cell of 5 * 5mm, rolls of 1 * 30m., But this size is not fundamental, the main thing is a small cell so that no mouse can crawl through.

Floor insulation with stone wool

Insulation of the ceiling with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

There is nothing unusual in the process of insulation itself; metal grid. You can also additionally use perforated tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool supports met. mesh, you can add perforated tape

And now we come to the most interesting ...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower ceiling

Yes, yes, the photographs do not show the VVZ film / membrane. You can't see it because it doesn't exist. And no, because it's not needed.

Most often, they write to me “but what about the moisture from the soil?”, “After all, the insulation will get wet!” and so on. But the trick is that stone wool can get wet only with direct contact with moisture in the form of drops or jets, which definitely will not happen underground. And she simply does not gain moisture from the air.

So only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer, I usually use a denser stone wool eg Paroc WAS 35.

Facade insulation Paroc WAS 35

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use wind protection (note that moisture protection is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter refers to ventilation facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof plates work in the same way, both in the wall and in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to make the “lower part of the lower floor”, as an option, it is also possible to use Isoplaat MDVP windproof boards, although it is already more difficult to mount them. But I would not use wind-moisture protective films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not capable of passing water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for overlapping, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications, alas, no one is immune from them.

What is the most often hemmed floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common version of filing the lower floor that I met on other people's construction sites is an inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, from the fact that "we have always done this", ending with the fact that it is cheaper than "newfangled windproof boards or insulation."

It is important to understand that there should be material from the bottom of your house

• with good vapor permeability;
• with sufficient wind protection;
• able to pass liquid in the event of a leak.

Neither OSB nor films / membranes fall under these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, the use of windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although the windproof insulation itself is three times more expensive than usual! Because of this difference in prices, a common misconception is born that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not true. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (the first layer), and secondly, let's calculate.

Once we already argued about this, I will give brief calculations that are relevant at the time of the dispute:

Paroc Extra regular ~ 1600 rubles per 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles per 1m2 of a 50mm slab.

Paroc WAS 35 is much more expensive ~ 4500 rubles per 1m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two heaters 145 rubles from 1m2. And now let's count the filing with a board and a film:

Dry inch ~ 8000 rubles per 1m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, film type Isospan A - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version, you will have to pay extra 150 rubles for 1m2 of insulation, but you won’t have to pay extra 225+ rubles for a m2 of board and film filing, so the myth “it’s unreasonably more expensive” was not confirmed, everything turned out the other way around.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not placed when filing with an inch. But the mesh protects the house from rodents and, in a good way, is needed in any implementation.

And what's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and filing (or rather, its absence). It remains to discuss what the ceiling has on top. So, after the installation of the insulation is completed, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use a plastic film:

Bottom cover and vapor barrier

As part of this note, I would not like to go into details, I will only say that the 150 micron film is registered in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many "branded" PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier of walls and floors. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are glued. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of the construction of a house in Matox. Video of mediocre quality, but something could not be found better and fresher. I'll have to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made a draft floor from moisture-resistant plywood, you can start assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

comments powered by HyperComments

I am designing a one-story frame house on screw piles, with an area of ​​100 square meters. Estimated floor pie: fine mesh from mice, PPS 25-200 mm, edged board 25 mm, vapor barrier layer, PPS 25-50 mm, concrete screed 50 mm with mesh, underfloor heating.

The fact is that the subfloor board will be purchased in winter and will lie under a canopy until installation in the summer (already when the house is under the roof). Dry, I think, up to 20%. I plan to pour concrete two months after the floor.

Let me know if there are any pitfalls here, in particular:

1. Will the shrinkage of the state of emergency affect the screed.
2. Will the teaching staff help to minimize changes in the CP.
3. Will this variant of the floor rot (it seems to be the norm on the heat calculation).
4. Will sound insulation suffer greatly from the use of PPS.

The floor-on-ground “cake” you described on the ground floor, which you plan to arrange in own house is at least irrational. As a maximum - in a year the other floor will have to be disassembled and redone. We strongly advise you to abandon such a design and here's why:

You yourself have doubts whether they will rot wooden planks located between layers of airtight insulation. We confirm your guess: they will definitely rot. Moreover, regardless of how well you dry them and what you soak them with. Without ventilation, wood will be affected by fungus. Construction Materials that are subject to biodegradation should not be placed in structures where moisture removal is not ensured. And one more thing: it is completely incomprehensible why you need this layer of 25-mm boards at all. After all, without a frame or a lag (there is no mention of their presence in your letter), the boards of the bearing function will not perform and are not a black floor. Moreover, if they are not attached to the base (we repeat, you do not have a frame), the wood will “twist” over time. You will not be able to pour the screed two months after laying the lower layers of the floor according to your scheme, the boards and insulation will already be deformed, the structure will have to be disassembled. Even if you manage to initially pick up even boards and pour the screed immediately, before they are warped, it is not a fact that reinforced concrete (actually a cement-sand mortar) will withstand deformation and will not crack someday.

The mistake is that for some reason you are trying to invent a hybrid structure: to combine wooden load-bearing elements (in fact, flooring without a frame will not support the load) and monolithic concrete. Don't come up with know-how, you don't have to. Take advantage of expertly developed and repeatedly proven technologies.

"Correct" designs, reliable and durable

There are two options, frame and monolithic:

Let's go through the layers one by one, starting from the bottom and moving up:

• The base - it should be as even and strong as possible. We don’t know what soils you have, so see for yourself what to add: crushed stone, ASG, sand and with what layer. In any case, the base must be well compacted. Perhaps it makes sense to make a footing.

  

  As a base, you can use compacted soil with seeded sand, which is easy to trim in place

• Base moisture isolation is required. On the footing or compacted soil, you can lay a roll bituminous waterproofing, gluing the panels together and be sure to bring them to the wall. Or well shed with molten bitumen, mastic. You can save money by using an inexpensive vapor barrier film instead of waterproofing. But it should not be laid on the ground (it can tear), but between the layers of insulation.
• Insulation. What should be the layer, we can't say without knowing climatic conditions your region. In any case, the more the better, especially considering that it is necessary to prevent the leakage of thermal energy from heated floors down into the ground. Any sufficiently rigid, non-hygroscopic and non-rotting effective insulation will do: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), polystyrene. Probably, by PPS (this is the general abbreviation for polystyrene foam), you meant inexpensive foam plastic of the PSB-S-25 brand. But there is no guarantee that it will suit you. There are no unambiguous rules on what the brand of foam plastic should be for the installation of monolithic floors. Much depends on the load: for example, in the place where a piano or a large aquarium will stand, it is better to put not foam plastic, but durable foam glass. Under heavy furniture - PSB-S-50 of maximum density or EPPS. In monolithic floors, we would not recommend using expanded polystyrene with a density below 25 kg / m3, with a lower resistance to compression, the density may be insufficient, there is a possibility of floor deformation.
  

  Note! The number 25 in the designation of the PSB-S-25 brand indicates not the real, but the maximum (highest) density. In fact, in accordance with GOST 15588-86, a manufacturer can sell products with a density of 15.1 to 25 kg / m3 under this brand.

  Naturally, many try to save on raw materials. We recommend that you purchase PSB-S-35 expanded polystyrene for a monolithic floor, the density of which should be 25.1-35 kg / m3, or try to find an “honest” PSB-S-25, the density of which would be closer to the maximum. It can be determined by weighing required amount material.

  

  The insulation should be laid in such a way that the joints of the foam sheets overlap mutually, the gaps can be filled with construction foam.

  

  Insulation sheets are laid with overlapping joints

• Reflective foil. The mirror surface of the foil reflects thermal radiation and will save you up to 2.5% of thermal energy, reducing fuel costs. If you decide to lay not just a foil, but a layer of foil foamed polyethylene foam (additional thermal insulation), the reflective surface should be directed upwards into the room.
• Reinforced concrete screed, thickness 50-60 mm. Concrete, even on fine aggregate, will be difficult to lay between pipes and mesh, and it will also be difficult to overwrite, most likely, you will prefer to use a cement-sand mortar. Brand - not lower than 150, better than 200. We recommend adding a plasticizer to it during the preparation of the solution, the screed will turn out denser and it will be easier to smooth it. If you order ready solution, you can ask to add a plasticizer to mixing unit(delivery by dump truck) or pour it into the mixer container (delivery by truck mixer). During the manufacture of the screed, the underfloor heating pipes must be filled with water or compressed air under working pressure. Floor heating can be turned on no earlier than a month after the manufacture of the screed, the temperature is raised smoothly over three days.
  

  Do not forget that the floor screed, if necessary, is separated by expansion joints: maximum size of an integral plot should not exceed 40 m2, and the length on either side - 8 m.

  

  Expansion joints must not cross the contours of the underfloor heating; only supply lines can pass through them in the insulating casing

  Also, along the perimeter of the premises along the walls, it is imperative to lay a damper (coastal) tape - a strip of elastic material (we recommend using expanded polystyrene foam) with a thickness of at least 1 cm.

  

• Optimal from a thermotechnical point of view, options for covering a heated floor - facing with ceramic, porcelain tiles, natural stone. These materials transmit heat in the best way and do not deform. The tile adhesive must be specially designed for underfloor heating, have increased elasticity. We do not recommend using parquet and solid wood boards, they will dry out. Acceptable options: laminate, linoleum, not very thick carpet.

Another very important issue that you will certainly encounter is the thermal insulation of the basement. Since your house is framed, on screw piles, you will have to figure out how to make a strong and aesthetic fence. There are many options, it can be a frame (wooden or steel), sewn up with siding or asbestos-cement slabs.

The easiest way is to arrange a frame around the house, sheathe it from the outside and insulate it well from the inside.

Vinyl basement siding it is not cheap, but it is beautiful, does not require finishing and maintenance. Both the siding and the frame cannot be lowered to the ground level; in frosts, it can rise. The gap can be closed with a steel apron

Asbestos-cement sheets are noticeably cheaper

You can lay the base with small-sized concrete blocks, rubble or brickwork.

Under the stone foundation will have to be done concrete base

The main thing is to insulate the outer perimeter well and prevent the soil from freezing under the house. The best option is to insulate not only the basement, but also the blind area, as they do everywhere in the cold Scandinavian countries.

The diagram shows how the joint insulation of the basement and blind area changes the nature of soil freezing. The ground under the building (if it is heated) never freezes, which eliminates frost-heaving deformations and helps to reduce operating costs. Use eps as insulation

And finally. Monolithic floors can be made not only after installing the box at home, but also before that, immediately after installing the screw supports and tying them into a common grillage with horizontal elements. With the right approach, it's faster and cheaper.

In countries with a developed construction industry, monolithic floors on the ground are usually arranged before the walls are installed, it is easier. The photo shows a strip foundation, but the technology is also suitable for a pile foundation. Before starting work, you need to have a detailed project for the placement of communications

About soundproofing

If the floor is monolithic, the top concrete layer will absorb all noise and vibration. In the case when the floor is framed and covered with laminate, a “clatter” will be heard when walking in shoes with a hard sole. Mice living underground might be a little noisy.