Everything about the correct insulation of the loggia. How to insulate a balcony for a living room? The most common options for heat insulators

Recently, more and more apartment owners in high-rise buildings decide to expand their area with a balcony. This is a great option if you figure out how to properly insulate it from the inside and equip it.

If the balcony is not glazed, windows must be installed before insulation. It is better to choose high-quality double-glazed windows without saving, because the amount of heat in the apartment depends on them. Elements of window structures should fit as tightly as possible to each other so that drafts do not penetrate into the house.

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are beginning to equip their balconies for additional space, for example, Personal Area. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

Stages of balcony insulation

In modern technologies for warming open hinged structures(balconies) four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider technological features installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

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1. First, existing gaps are sealed. It is necessary to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. You can fix the problem with mounting foam, even if the slots are quite wide, you just need to choose a quality one, for example, Macroflex, Soudal, Moment Installation. After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with a clerical knife.

2. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied with a brush, roller or by spraying. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates inside the walls, as a result of which they become more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are not visible to the "naked" eye.

3. Laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, you can use expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, foam plastic, mineral plates, etc.

Vapor barrier installation. You can use polymer "breathing" membranes, vapor barrier films "Izospan", "Rockwool" and the like, or in extreme cases penofol, which is laid with the foil side towards the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will return back.

4. Exterior finish ceiling and walls on the balcony.

Insulation option in which there is no additional insulation

This technique can be used provided that materials with low vapor permeability are available (we are talking about materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, or extruded polystyrene foam).

No. 1. Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

After all the cracks are sealed and waterproofing is completed, the surface is treated with a deep penetration primer, for example, Ceresit. This can be done with a brush or sprayer. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container, which is not a pity, then applied to the surface. Carefully work out the walls, ceiling and floorto achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards with them.

After applying the primer, you must wait at least six hours, then continue work. If the wall is made of cinder concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.

Rest - continue. We unpack the styrofoam boards. They are attached with glue and fasteners. Glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it on the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to step back three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Mount sheets of expanded polystyrene in a checkerboard pattern.

To lay a vapor barrier or not - it's up to you. In this case, it is not necessary to do so.

Installation of reinforcing mesh. When all the plates are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, a reinforcing mesh should be mounted. To do this, the surface of the plates is worked out with glue, perforated corners are fixed at their corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled to the glued surface with a roller, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall dries, it is primed and plastered

No. 2. Insulation of the balcony with foam

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, mounting foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.

So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up insulation boards plastic panels they look very original.

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, compliance with the technology and correct selection materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.

Kinds mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. internal warmth of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between outer wall(ceiling, roof) and frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on which cladding will be used in the future.

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the frame-lathing is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the interior space of the balcony by installing rectangular sticks, and not square section(30×50 cm2, 30×70 cm2).

All racks and horizontal laths of the crate are installed under the level. Fastening of vertical racks to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, thigh, shoulder.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. By itself, the cotton material is breathable, it easily passes gaseous substances (air, steam).

Considering that at internal insulation the point of condensation is shifted into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the building wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

Purpose of interior decoration:

1. Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
2. Create an aesthetic interior wall covering of a room or insulated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed crate frame, the finishing is done by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Finishing clapboard is carried out by wall cladding with wooden (or plastic) wagon panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and fastening density. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitator of a wooden coating laid on interior walls balconies (or loggias). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Wooden wagon panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, have enough for floor covering rigidity. Plastic clapboard can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of wagon cover (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Clapboard lining is recommended to start from the corner. Each panel is checked for verticality by a level and fixed to the crate with a special fastener (clamp). You can fix the wagon panel with small carnations.

After finishing finishing inner surface treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and from destruction.

Problems faced with internal insulation of the balcony

1. When sheathing walls, ceilings and floors with insulating material, the area of ​​​​the room inevitably decreases. And this drawback is not the only one.

2. Condensation often occurs in many structures, which is difficult to get rid of when all construction work has already been completed. Why does excess moisture appear?

The insulation structure installed on the balcony includes the following elements:

1. outdoor fencing located on the street; warming material; warm room.

Air masses tend to get outside, and their moisture, which has passed through the insulation, settles on the outer fence in the form of condensate. The insulation gets wet and completely loses its performance characteristics.

Warm vapors, colliding with a cold fence, also turn into a liquid state. Excess moisture in the room causes many problems: for example, the appearance of mold or rotting of wooden structural elements. That is why you need to know how to properly insulate your balcony.

From the inside, this can be done in two ways.

Hydrobarrier

Hydrobarrier - a special design that prevents moisture condensation on the outer fence. The technology of its installation includes certain stages:

1. installation of vapor barrier;
2. facing materials.

The hydrobarrier makes it possible to use even materials that do not tolerate moisture when insulating from the inside. Polyethylene or foil serves as insulation.

Important! All seams must be sealed with construction tape.to best insulate the balcony.

The disadvantage of this method of insulation is that the walls cannot breathe.

Warming without additional insulation

It is possible to insulate a balcony from the inside in this way only if there are materials with low vapor permeability: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. The design includes:

1. fiberglass mesh, also mounted with glue; finishing.

Advice! For better fixing of the insulation, you can use plastic dowels.

For thermal insulation with polystyrene foam, glue is not required. This material is applied to the surface to be insulated with a sprayer, foams and dries.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL LOGICPIR Balcony is suitable for walls, ceiling, floor. saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.

1. keeps warm due to the unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W / m ° K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W / m ° K);
2. protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (combustibility group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
3. will last for many years (the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Advice! When insulating a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam, it is better to make a layer of material about 80 mm thick. The vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam is lower than that of a simple one, so its layer can be even smaller.

Floor insulation

Behind the insulation of the walls of the balcony, the floor should be insulated. If you correctly calculate the amount of insulation and the thickness of its layer, you can make the floor on the balcony at the same level as in the rest of the rooms.

At the first stage of work, the slab is cleaned of dirt, debris and crumbling plaster. Then the floor is covered with foil and penofol. The second stage is the fastening of the crate, previously cut with a jigsaw. Insulation plates are laid between its bars (preferably foam), and the gaps between them are filled with foam. The final stage is the installation of flooring, linoleum or parquet and skirting boards.

This design can raise the floor on the balcony by about 150 mm.

Floor with electric heating

You can insulate the floor using modern technologies. Then the balcony will not differ from other rooms in almost nothing. Installing electric heat tracing is a relatively simple process, but electricity costs increase significantly.

To heat the balcony floor from the inside, a special electric cable is installed.

Important! Moisture must never get into the cable.

Insulation components:

Ceiling insulation

Advice! If the neighbors living on the floor above have already insulated their balcony, there is no need to insulate the ceiling.

The most optimal material for ceiling insulation is foam. It weighs very little, which is very important in this case. Its main layer is supplemented with foil, which acts as a vapor barrier and heat reflector. Foiled polystyrene foam is fixed with polyurethane foam glue and dish-shaped dowels. All seams are sealed with a special metal tape.

The foam plastic is attached to aluminum hangers using the same combined method.

Important! Insulation sheets should fit together as tightly as possible.

All cracks are filled mounting foam with special care, so every, even the smallest, hole can make all work absolutely useless.

You can insulate the balcony from the inside both independently and using the services of professionals. However, these construction works can be simple if you use the tips and carefully understand the technology.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions

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Errors when warming a balcony

Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, a functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose residents appreciate every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, pantry, resting place, mini greenhouse, dining room or extra bed. There are many options for its use. The main thing is to do quality work on its insulation. Only in this case it will be warm and cozy on the balcony.

Features and Benefits

In the warm season, the whole family can relax on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you warm it up, the situation will change. The advantage is that all the planned work is easy to do on your own. Additionally warm room- this is a space in which it is easy to create a small work area or a relaxation area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment cozier and warmer. You can attach a living room or a kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create extra space.

Before you engage in insulation or glazing, you need to get expert advice. He will definitely tell you what load a warm balcony can withstand, whether it is worth strengthening it. If the base is a powerful concrete slab, the question of reinforcement does not arise. But the metal parapet must be reinforced with foam blocks or light bricks made of ceramic material. The same should be done in the case of unstable fastening of the reinforced concrete base.

For insulation, double-glazed windows in wooden frames can be used. They are environmentally friendly, allow the windows to "breathe", but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inserts increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be the equipment of PVC windows with double-glazed windows, which will reliably retain heat.

Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.

What materials are better to choose

For finishing balconies or loggias today there are many varieties of finishing materials, with which they give even the most small room original and attractive look. The main thing is to do right choice finishing material. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with a wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative rock, aluminum profile, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, penofol.

Mineral wool, foam trim - perfect solution For self-insulation rooms.

In the case of an uninsulated balcony, it is better to give preference artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. The most commonly used finishing materials are:

Drywall

• This material is distinguished by the fact that it is based on no toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined with other finishing materials in design. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, paneled and clapboarded. With the help of such a versatile material, it is enough to simply turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room.

PVC panels

• A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is able to quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, quick and easy installation with glue.

Cork panels

• They create a cosiness that cannot be organized using other finishing materials. Cork panels are pressed cork oak bark. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony, regardless of the temperature level in the room. The cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. Lack of material - high price. For insulation, they also use inexpensive foam plastic, and mineral wool is perfect.

How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step instructions

A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, taken out under the open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a recreation area, one has only to glaze and isolate it.

Warming the balcony with your own hands will save a lot of money. Sheathing in panel house, in "Khrushchev" is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and building.

• Step 1. To begin with, the old frames are dismantled, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside is an important step in the whole process.

• Step 2. At the second stage it is necessary to make a balcony glazing. Best Option there will be windows plastic pvc. Many people prefer to keep the old wood frames. However, remember that even if wooden structures in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat savings. There are gaps in the tree, so it is pointless to deal with insulation in this situation.

• Step 3. After the plastic windows are installed, you can begin to insulate the floor. Be prepared for the floor to be higher. Consider this if the ceiling in the room is low.

• Step 4. Wall cladding is carried out after the installation of windows and floor insulation. The walls on the balcony are considered side walls, except for the main one. At the final stage of insulation, Finishing work. The choice of materials depends on the budget. In the process of finishing, window slopes facing the balcony are installed.

Necessary tools and materials

• In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw or a clerical knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; glue application tool - brush, spatula and so on; other tools. Of the materials you need glue and the insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.

You will also need a frame device. In this case, you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide hats. They are used when polystyrene is not fixed with glue.

Warming inside

• High-quality thermal insulation combined with double-glazed windows turns the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. Insulation materials must be durable, lightweight, safe for humans. Due to atmospheric precipitation and condensate, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that hydro and vapor barriers are needed.

Expanded polystyrenes meet these requirements as much as possible: traditional foam plastic and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first is very light, strong in compression, waterproof. Penoplex is an insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam. Its strength and durability exceeds conventional foam, and its shape simplifies installation in the clutch and provides perfect insulation. Sheathing the balcony with slabs can be done both inside and outside.

Insulation of a closed balcony begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to carefully cover the cracks and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with mounting foam without toluene in the composition. Metal constructions rust needs to be cleaned oil paint and treat with building antiseptic.

Before laying the insulation put windows and doors. Window sills and slopes are mounted at the last stage of work. Balcony glazing depends on the parapet. If this is just a metal crate, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage they are covered with corrugated board.

Floor

Can be installed on a reinforced concrete parapet window structures immediately, using various mounting and sealing compounds. Metal-plastic windows have excellent characteristics, with skillful installation, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, it is worth stopping at hinged frames with double glazing.

Floor

• In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions at once: make it warm or constantly heat it up. We are talking about installing a floor heating system, for example, an electric one. Installing a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but installing an electric or film system is easy.

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It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, protecting the floor from moisture from the outside. Next, a crate is arranged. Instead of a log, a beam is used, five centimeters thick. If you do not want to greatly raise the floor relative to the old coating, it is better to use a beam of low height. A square bar 50 × 50 mm is perfect. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.

To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them with a construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to lay the film with an overlap on the walls. All gaps between the beams and the walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or mounting foam.

Walls

• Many do not insulate the walls, believing that cold does not enter the balcony from the side of the house. In many ways it is, but the work needs to be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, all work can only consist in installing penofol, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and the penetration of condensate into the balcony.

• Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof design. Recommended to do pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and battens. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Attached to film roofing material, and waterproofing over a double-sided vapor barrier film, with the absorbent side inward. From below, the rafters are hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.

The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; bearing beams With interior decoration. The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely truss system. Next, a double-sided vapor barrier membrane is attached to it in the indicated way. Then arrange the crate and lay the waterproofing layer. You can use classic roofing material or special PVC films.

• Warming outside. In order to insulate the balcony from the outside on your own, you will need skills. It is not easy to do quality work yourself, taking into account the characteristics of the building. Finishing the outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating. Remember that outdoor work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is above the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.

Before you start insulation, get the consent of officials from the Department of Architecture. Appearance a balcony can spoil the overall picture, but if you complete the decoration in the same style as the whole building, then you can get permission. Insulation from the outside has several advantages:

• the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, moist air from the room freely passes through it and is released into the atmosphere;
• saving usable space;
• you can mount a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the interior of the balcony in any way.

Materials can be used the same as for internal works. Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation, as the lightest and most effective. Experts recommend using foam or polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture, so its installation requires special care and accuracy.

The independent procedure for warming a balcony is complicated. All stages must be completed at a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely isolated. Glass, panoramic, stained glass balcony - a great solution for small space. Designers advise to connect it with a room for expansion. A glazed balcony connected to the kitchen on the top floor is a luxurious solution.

Owners of city apartments often wonder how to insulate a balcony inside with their own hands. This procedure is actually quite simple. However, it is still necessary to comply with the established technologies during its implementation. First of all, of course, you will need to decide how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. From the variety of the selected material and will be in more depend on the method of sheathing the parapet, walls and ceiling.

Expanded polystyrene or mineral wool?

These two materials for warming balconies and loggias are most often chosen. Expanded polystyrene is a little more expensive than mineral wool. However, at the same time, it is also the best answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside. The fact is that when sheathing the loggia from the side of the living quarters, the so-called is located inside the insulating "pie". Therefore, it is much better to use moisture-resistant material for insulation. Inexpensive mineral wool, unfortunately, does not differ in such properties. It absorbs moisture very quickly. Of course, you can use it. However, in this case, you will have to pay maximum attention to waterproofing. So the best answer to the question of how to insulate a balcony inside with your own hands is still polystyrene foam.

Material characteristics

When choosing sheets for balcony insulation, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• density,

Expanded polystyrene sheets produced by modern manufacturers have standard sizes: 2x1, 0.5x1 or 1x1. Those who wondered how to sheathe a balcony from the inside should think about purchasing smaller sheets. It will be very inconvenient to mount too large plates in the limited space of the loggia. For a balcony, the best option is 0.5x1 or, in extreme cases, 1x1.

As for the thickness, you can buy absolutely any polystyrene foam for a balcony. The only thing that should be guided in this case is such an indicator as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loggia. After assembling the warming cake on the balcony, there should be enough left for a comfortable pastime free space. Most often, the owners of the loggias of typical Soviet-built houses choose polystyrene foam with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

The density of this type of insulation can be found by looking at the marking. The best answer to the question of how to sheathe a balcony from the inside is to use 15-25 grade polystyrene foam. The higher the numbers, the lower the thermal conductivity of the material, and the more brittle it is. If the expanded polystyrene is supposed to be covered with decorative plaster or wallpaper in the future, it is worth buying thicker plates. If lining or panels will be used as a quality, you can take loose sheets that retain heat well.

Where to begin?

So, how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, you now know. Next, let's look at how to do it right. Before proceeding with the installation of the insulating "pie", it is necessary to carefully prepare the loggia itself. First of all, the wooden floors are dismantled. Then proceed to repair the parapet. If there are through cracks in it, they must be sealed with sealant. Chipped close up cement mortar or moisture resistant putty. Similarly, prepare the walls, floor and ceiling.

Loggia waterproofing

Having wondered how to properly insulate the balcony with their own hands inside, the owners of the apartment must first of all make sure that it is always dry in this small room. Waterproofing during this operation is considered mandatory (especially when using mineral wool as a heater). In its absence:

the service life of the balcony finish will be reduced;

all metal structures will quickly rust;

due to increased humidity, various kinds of fungi will begin to develop, as a result of which an unpleasant odor will appear on the loggia.

Sometimes, on balconies not insulated in this way, the supporting structures even begin to collapse, which, of course, is very dangerous.

The easiest way is to waterproof the balcony using bitumen-polymer mastic. It is heated to a liquid state, the floor is poured into it and the parapet is smeared in 2-3 layers. Sometimes roll materials are also used to waterproof the balcony.

What kind of glue do you need

Those who wondered how to insulate the balcony inside with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam should, among other things, take care of using suitable glue to fix the sheets. It is allowed to mount this material directly on the mastic (on polymer-bitumen - immediately, on bituminous - after complete drying). In this case, special glue should be used. It's called Bitumast.

What else to buy

Thus, you now know how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. Photos of polystyrene sheets - the most suitable material for this purpose - can be seen on the page. However, in addition to them and glue, to insulate the balcony, you will also need to prepare:

reinforcing mesh,

fungus dowels,

polyurethane foam (without toluene),

decorative plaster or wallpaper.

pasting technology

So, next, let's see how to insulate the loggia from the inside. Start the installation of sheets should be from the corner. This rule is true both when pasting a parapet, and walls or a ceiling. Actually the installation operation itself is performed as follows:

Styrofoam sheets are roughened. To do this, they are passed with a special needle roller. Treated in this way, they will hold much better.

A support rail is attached to the bottom of the parapet.

The adhesive solution is evenly applied to the surface of the wall, ceiling or parapet.

Firmly press the polystyrene foam to the surface.

Mount the material for insulating the balcony from the inside in such a way that the joints between the sheets have a T-shape (as when laying bricks). After the plate is glued, it should be additionally fixed with mushroom dowels (5 per sheet). Holes for them can be drilled directly through the sheets. On final stage handle joints. In this case, building foam is used.

Reinforcing mesh gluing

Expanded polystyrene is an excellent answer to the question of how best to insulate a balcony inside. However, decorative plaster on this material does not hold very well. To remedy the situation, use a special reinforcing mesh. Mount it as follows:

Previously, the polystyrene foam surface of the ceiling, parapet and walls is completely coated with glue (for polystyrene).

Another layer of glue is applied on top of it. Its thickness should be such that the mesh joints do not protrude above the surface plane.

fine finish

So, we have figured out how to insulate the balcony with our own hands. step by step photo this process is shown above. As you can see, this procedure is relatively simple. At the final stage, the dried adhesive surface is passed with a special grater to give it a roughness. Next, start applying decorative plaster. You can also wallpaper the balcony.

Second way

The loggia isolation technique discussed above is suitable when using dense polystyrene foam. And if the owners decided to buy mineral wool as an insulator? How to insulate a balcony with your own hands? A step-by-step (photo of the process is presented below) work guide in this case will look like this:

A frame of wooden beams is attached to the parapet, walls, floor and ceiling. The step between its elements should be equal to the width of the plates of the selected insulation. The beam can be fixed to the concrete parapet with self-tapping screws. For balconies with metal railings, an independent paving construction is assembled.

Further, the insulation itself is inserted between the elements of the frame. The material is attached to the concrete parapet with “fungi” (expanded polystyrene can be additionally glued). If the fence is metal, it is better to use cotton wool and insert it by surprise. If expanded polystyrene is chosen for insulation, you can, for example, fix plywood on the back side of the frame and glue the material to it.

It is stretched over the insulation. It is better to fasten it with thin laths (two on each side of the beam).

the balcony is trimmed with clapboard, plastic panels, drywall or plywood. Attach the material to the bars of the frame.

How to insulate the floor

The base of the balcony is isolated last. The floor is preliminarily waterproofed, and then logs are installed on it. The answer to the question of how to insulate inside is simple. Most often, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is laid between the bars. You can also use expanded clay. A vapor barrier is attached over the insulation, and then a floor or edged board is stuffed. Then the floor is covered with linoleum or finished with any other suitable material.

Balcony heating

Whatever answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside, the owners of the house choose for themselves, subject to the installation technology, in the future it will be possible to have a good time here, including in winter. However, on very cold days, even an insulated loggia may require additional heating. It is strictly forbidden to take out the central heating by the regulations. Therefore, the best solution would be to set the usual here electric heater. It should be placed against the wall separating the balcony and the apartment. It is not recommended to install heaters near the parapet. The fact is that in this case, due to the rising warm air on the balcony, the windows will begin to fog up heavily.

You can also arrange on the loggia

Warm floor

This work is done as follows:

Thermal insulation material is laid on the floor.

Installed metal

Installed heating cable.

A thermostat is hung on the wall.

Poured concrete screed 30-40 mm thick.

The floor covering is laid.

Well, we hope we answered the question in sufficient detail about how to insulate the balcony inside with our own hands and how to do it right. The most important thing when assembling a "pie" is not to violate the established technology. In this case, the balcony will turn out cozy and warm.

A balcony or loggia is an unheated room in an apartment. Therefore, they are a source of heat loss from an apartment or house. Even a well-glazed balcony lets in a significant amount of heat.

To avoid this, the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside. At the same time, it should be noted that there are different approaches to the insulation of this type of room.

The type and method of warming the balcony and loggia depends on:

• intended purpose:

• the balcony is not intended for storage, they are insulated in order to reduce heat loss from the room. In this case, work is carried out according to a scheme similar to outdoor heating. That is, only one side of it, adjacent to the wall of the room, is insulated;

• the balcony is for storage. Insulated around the perimeter of all surfaces. Because it shouldn't be here high temperature, then the requirements for heat-insulating materials are not particularly high;

• balcony, which is a continuation of the living room or serving as an office, library, gym, etc. In this case, heat loss through windows and all surfaces is eliminated. And as the materials used, heat insulators with high density and considerable thickness. Particular attention is paid to the thermal conductivity of the material and the rules for its installation.

• heating budget. It determines both the type of insulation, and the area of ​​​​insulation, and further finishing. It also determines whether to entrust the work to professionals or to do the insulation of the balcony with your own hands;

• season. Low temperatures can withstand any kind of insulation. But solutions, adhesives and foam must be used taking into account the ambient temperature. As a rule, "winter varieties" are more expensive. And the duration of work in winter is more significant;

Consider ways to insulate a balcony using various heaters and give some important practical advice how to make loggia insulation more effective. We will proceed from the fact that it is necessary to qualitatively and inexpensively insulate the balcony on all surfaces inside - walls, ceiling and floor.

Insulation requirement:

1. light weight. In order not to weigh down the balcony, which is much lower in strength than the loggia;
2. small volume. In order not to occupy the useful living space of a balcony or loggia;
3. low cost;
4. safety. Fire and environmental;
5. opportunity to do the work yourself.

Insulation for balconies and loggias - types and properties

If you have not yet decided what is the best way to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with popular thermal insulation materials. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which are in characteristics, cost and installation methods.

Styrofoam

Durable, dense material that does not support combustion well. Resistant to moisture, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Styrofoam

Dense heater. It has the lowest thermal conductivity, light weight, high strength and low cost.

Basalt and mineral wool

Soft insulation. Works due to its structure. Fibers arranged in a chaotic manner contain air, which does not allow heat to penetrate through the cotton wool. Working with cotton wool, you need to create an additional frame.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Sprayed insulation. The material is good because it does not allow moisture to pass through, makes it possible to adjust the thickness of the insulation and allows you to get a coating without seams. And this, in turn, eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

Penofol

multilayer material. The polystyrene backing keeps the heat in, and the aluminum screen, which is like a thermal mirror, allows the heat to be reflected inside the house. Can be used on its own or in combination with other heaters.

Expanded clay

Bulk heater. It has a porous structure, thanks to which it retains heat well. Used for floor insulation.

Using these materials to insulate balconies and loggias, you can additionally provide good sound insulation (provided that they are glazed with plastic windows).

A mandatory accompanying attribute when insulating from the inside with most of these materials is a vapor and hydrobarrier film or a superdiffusion membrane. It is designed to protect the insulation, especially soft from getting wet and condensation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands - step by step instructions

• Clearing the premises. It is impossible to do quality work if you have to constantly move things from place to place.

• Crack sealing. We assume that high-quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. In any case, there are gaps between the balcony and the wall, at the junction of the ceiling and the floor. So they need to be repaired using foam, sealants or solutions. Slots of considerable size are sealed with pieces of foam.

• Balcony / loggia waterproofing. Needed to keep water out. Moreover, it can enter through micropores in concrete. For this purpose, a deep penetrating primer can be used.

• In the case of using cotton wool, it is necessary to install a waterproofing film. It is fastened with an overlap and secured with tape.

• Installing a heater. There are two methods here:

• frame method. In this case, you must first equip the frame from wooden boards treated with an antiseptic or galvanized profiles. Boards are more popular because they are cheaper and allow you to adjust the thickness of the frame. The most commonly used beam is 50x50. A heater is inserted into the formed cells.

• Frameless method. More preferable, but only suitable for rigid insulation. This is due to the fact that the material of the frame with the frame method remains not covered with insulation. That is, wood or metal serve as cold bridges and conduct heat well. Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, rigid heaters are mounted without arranging the frame.

• Laying penofol, vapor barrier film or superdiffusion membrane.

• Floor insulation is in progress.

• The final stage is the decorative finishing of the balcony or drywall.

Insulation of the balcony and loggia with mineral wool

The cotton wool is laid so that it fits snugly against the elements of the frame, but is not “rammed”, i.e. no need to further compact it. From this, the structure of the mineral wool will change and part of the air will evaporate. This will reduce the thermal insulation properties of wool. In order for the cotton wool to hold securely on the wall, and especially on the ceiling, it must be additionally fixed using wire or umbrellas (dowels with a wide cap).

Mineral wool fixed with "umbrellas"

Sometimes cotton wool is brought behind the frame, as shown in the figure. Then the elements of the frame are held by cotton wool. However, professionals do not recommend using this approach for low-density wool (less than 50 kg/m3), since wool held in only a few places will settle over time, exposing part of the wall to the movement of cold air.

Cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film. Then the counter-lattice is stuffed. It allows you to protect cotton wool from touching finishing material and avoid the appearance of a dew point in this place.

In more detail, the stages of installing cotton wool are presented in the diagram.

1. floor base
2. floor joists
3. frame
4. Basalt wool
5. Vapor barrier film
6. Control grille
7. Finishing material

Insulation of the balcony with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

Rigid insulation is also placed in the frame sections and fixed on foam or special glue. The insulation is not laid close to the frame, but with a gap of 5-10 mm. The gap is subsequently blown out with foam, and the foam sheet is additionally attached with a plastic dowel - an umbrella (fungus).

Fastening foam plastic in a frame way

Fastening polystyrene foam in a frame way

The foam sheets are tightly pressed against each other, and the joints are blown with foam.

Expanded polystyrene sheets are joined according to the "groove-comb" principle.

The sputtering method stands apart in this group. Such heat-insulating material as polyurethane foam is applied to the wall precisely by spraying. Relatively new material on the market is quickly gaining its fans among professionals and amateurs. Because it allows you to perform insulation without additional preparation of the base. The high speed of work execution - less than one day - also speaks in favor of the PPU. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the inability to do the work yourself without special equipment.

• Firstly, reliable protection moisture insulation;

• Secondly, additional internal insulation;

• Thirdly, the foil reflects 90% of the heat back. What is very important for a balcony or loggia, which, by law, cannot have their own heating sources.

We will learn how to properly insulate a loggia or balcony, decide on the method and materials, and talk about laying electrical wiring.

Apartments with an additional area, which is a loggia or balcony, have a greater advantage in the eyes of apartment owners without these premises. But how are these very loggias and balconies used? In summer, you can put a light table and chairs there, breathe fresh air, or simply pull on clotheslines and dry your washed clothes.

How to insulate a loggia or balcony

• Glazing of the loggia
• Balcony floor insulation
• Electrician on the balcony

With the onset of the first cold weather, balconies and loggias become a place for storing various unnecessary belongings; with the first frosts, they allow you to do without a refrigerator and store perishable products without any problems. But square meters Living space today is expensive - why do we forget about "orphan" premises that can be easily converted into living rooms using modern insulating materials? Without postponing for "tomorrow" we take up the insulation of the loggia and balcony - the guide in this article.

Issues that need to be resolved before starting work on the insulation of the loggia

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of the future insulated room, whether it will be a study, a nursery or, for example, a room for sports training. To a large extent, this choice will depend on the size of the loggia, to a greater extent on its width - if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be narrow for a study. The purpose of using the insulated loggia in the future depends on the scheme for constructing electrical wiring, the positions and number of electrical outlets, and lighting fixtures.

Important: completely abandon the idea of ​​​​combining the loggia and the room adjacent to it by removing part of the wall between them!

This is the outer wall of the building, which means it is a load-bearing wall; no additional expansions of the opening in it, except, perhaps, the removal of the frame and the door frame (if the loggia is located behind the kitchen), are absolutely impossible! News channels periodically report partial destruction of entire entrances in multi-storey residential buildings due to the fact that the owner of one of the apartments intended to increase living space by demolishing part bearing wall- don't even think about it!

The reason why loggias seriously freeze in winter is connected with a large area of ​​glazing in this room - after all, it was designed by architects for a clothes dryer, and not for living quarters. It would seem that there is something difficult here - to lay a part window opening brickwork or facade drywall with a layer of insulation between its panels and the problem is solved.

But not everything is so simple - from the position of official government agencies, reducing the glazing area of ​​​​the loggia is an interference in the architectural appearance of the building, which means it is not allowed. Glazing the balcony is another matter, this is allowed, since it reduces the risk of fire from an accidental cigarette butt from the upper floors. Last years supervisory state bodies do not react in any way to these same interventions in the "architectural appearance", but this does not mean that they will not pay attention further - it is better not to make serious changes in the existing glazing of the loggia.

Heat loss through the glazing of the loggia can be significantly reduced by installing modern double-glazed windows and carefully sealing the joints between new window frames, as well as frames and adjacent walls.

It is necessary to think over the heating of the loggia - if, after warming, this room will be used as a full-fledged room in which a person has been present for a long time, then one cannot do without it. It is tempting to install a heating battery on the loggia, powered by central system, but this is prohibited by municipal legislation.

The reason for the ban is this - when designing the building and its heating system, the loggias were not taken into account, so installing a heating battery in these rooms will lead to a lack of temperature in the system for heating other apartments. As you can see, the point here is not at all the theft of heat, and your attempts to include the loggia area in the total heated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment are guaranteed to be refused in all instances.

Installing a water radiator on a loggia is allowed only if your apartment has an individual heating system, that is, it is heated from a boiler installed in it. There remains only the option of heating the loggia with electric heaters - infrared, convection or using an electric floor heating.

Preparation of the loggia (balcony) for insulation

At this stage, the loggia room is completely freed from everything that is folded in it - after cleaning it should become completely empty. The existing single glazed wooden frames must then be removed as they will need to be replaced with modern ones. If the balcony has a metal fence, it must be cut off (you will need a grinder), instead of the old parapet, lay out a new one, made of light ceramic bricks or foam blocks.

The new parapet can be brought out a little higher than the old fence, but not excessively - change the "architectural appearance". Completely remove the flooring of the loggia, if it is done tiles- you can leave it by cutting out part of the tile under the conclusion of the brick parapet.

Measure the dimensions of the free opening above the parapet, and you need to remove them using the building level - with the same heights on opposite sides, there may be a serious horizontal difference, i.e. opposite points may be at different heights from the horizontal floor level. Measure the angles and take measurements from each of the walls, ceiling and floor, make a drawing with these dimensions - it will come in handy.

Glazing of the loggia

Depending on the purpose of insulation and the temperatures of the cold season, new frames can be with one glass or with double-glazed windows of two or three glasses with a heat-reflecting film inside. The frames themselves can be aluminum, wood or plastic, reinforced from the inside with a galvanized metal profile.

Measurements and recommendations for glazing the loggia will be given to you by the measurer of the opening for glazing, he will also perform all measurements - take into account at least one window in the total glazing area to ventilate the insulated loggia in the future.

Warn the measurer that you need free vertical sections between the extreme frames and the wall with a width of about 70 mm on each side, i.e. the frames on the sides of the glazed opening should not be located close to the walls.

Subsequent insulation of the walls of the loggia will require attaching a layer of insulation to them, metal profile or a wooden beam and subsequent finishing sheathing, so the walls will move forward a little inside the loggia - if you install double-glazed windows close to the walls, then the side profiles of the frames will be “drowned” into the insulated wall. In the free areas between the frames and the wall, a beam will be installed and two layers of body insulation will be laid (before and after the beam).

In the process of installing new glazing, ask the performers to install a flashing on the outside - a special plastic tape, its width can be from 30 to 70 mm. And one more thing - despite the adhesive layer on the back of the flashing, you should fasten it to the frame with short self-tapping screws with a pitch of 500 mm, because over time the glue will dry and the flashing will certainly fall behind.

Balcony floor insulation

There are two main ways to do this: lay the insulation directly on the floor, lay the main coating on top; set the logs, on top of them is a heater and a rough base of the floor, on top - the main coating. If it is possible to simplify the task and not raise the floor on wooden logs - we only lay the roofing material, glue its joints with sealing tape and, if the floor height allows up to the threshold of the loggia door, we lay the base of the floor from chipboard or OSB boards, impregnated with drying oil and further drying. In this case, we will not lay the insulation, because there is no space under it.

As a heat and vapor barrier in the process of insulating a loggia or balcony, Penofol or Penoplex is most often used, the first insulation consists of polyethylene foam, the second is made of extruded polystyrene foam. Possessing good thermal insulation characteristics, easy to use and practically waste-free, both of these materials are not recommended for use in residential premises.

The reasons are as follows: despite the declared flammability classes, according to which these heaters do not burn and do not support combustion, their manufacturers at the same time prevaricate - "Penofol" and "Penoplex" smolder perfectly, releasing a significant amount of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. It is better to protect the residents of the apartment and the whole house as much as possible from such consequences of fire, using only mineral wool insulation.

So, for laying the insulated floor on the loggia, we need: roofing material, which is enough to cover the floor area of ​​​​the loggia with a slight overlap on the walls; a roll of self-adhesive tape-sealant type "Guerlain"; wooden beam 50 mm wide for setting lags; rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm; flooring for the base of the floor (sheets of chipboard, OSB 20 mm thick); finished floors (linoleum, laminate).

The surface of the floor is cleaned of debris and dust, roofing material is laid on top of it in one layer. The joints between sheets of roofing material, between the roofing material and the wall adjacent to it are covered with a self-adhesive sealant tape. Logs are installed on top of the roofing material with a step of 500 mm, the beam under them is selected with the height that will allow the plane of the new floor to be brought to the level of the door threshold. When determining the height of the beam under the logs, consider: the thickness of the roofing material (usually 5 mm), the thickness of the slabs under the base of the floor, the thickness of the finishing floor covering.

Logs are set according to the building level, interconnected by bars of smaller thickness. Logs should not be fastened at this stage with high quality - their design will have to be disassembled for processing from decay. To obtain a perfectly horizontal floor surface, you will need to substitute small supporting boards under the logs; they should not be fixed to the floor, since the roofing material will be damaged.

In the design of some balconies, the slabs forming the floor are sloped towards the side of the fence to remove rainwater - horizontal differences of up to 90 mm are possible between the inside and outside of the floor slab. Keep this in mind when setting lags.

After the upper plane formed by the lags is brought to a horizontal level, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure and treat the timber with oxol drying oil to protect it from decay. After waiting for the complete drying of the drying oil layer applied with a paint brush, we collect the logs again, this time they need to be fastened together with the greatest care. The slabs selected for the base of the floor also need to be covered with a layer of drying oil on both sides and along all ends.

Having completed the processing with drying oil, drying and setting the lags, we proceed to laying the mineral wool insulation, for which it must be cut into blocks according to the size of the compartments between the installed lags. Mineral wool is easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's saw; in the process of working with it, it is necessary to wear a bandage or a respirator - small particles of mineral wool will break off and rise into the air during cutting and laying.

At the next stage after laying the insulation, the base plates are installed on the logs, fastened to them with wood screws. Further flooring work at this stage is stopped - first, it is necessary to complete the insulation and finishing work of the ceiling and walls. The surface of the rough base of the floor for the time of work with the ceiling and walls is covered with two layers of PVC film, fixed along the contour with masking tape.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage

Inspect the surfaces of the ceiling and walls for cracks and falling plaster, tile tiles, embroider all fragile seams, then fill them with mounting foam, seal them with sealant tape on top.

Hand the queues - the installation of a wooden beam with a section of 40x50 mm (pre-treated with drying oil) on the walls and ceiling. The beam is set across the walls and ceiling in increments of 500 mm, the beginning of the installation is at the junction of the planes of the ceiling and walls, i.e., at the junction points, the beam is attached to both the ceiling and the wall, close to each other. To fasten the beam, concrete screws with a pitch of 300 mm are used.

On this, work on the walls and ceiling is temporarily stopped - then the turn of the electricians.

Electrician on the balcony

As a rule, the old electrical wiring of the loggia is represented by an aluminum wire 2x1.5 in a common braid, designed for the simplest lamp in one lamp 100 watts. For a full-fledged living space, such wiring is not suitable at all - we will pull a new one.

First you need to find out where the junction box is located in the room closest to the loggia - this question should be clarified with the electrician of the local housing office or get a wiring diagram in your apartment in this office. If for some reason you don’t want to contact the housing office, then you can stretch a new wiring from the electrical outlet closest to the loggia, punching a channel from it to the wall between the loggia and the room, then drill a hole through this wall. Detailed description this process, see our article.

For wiring to the loggia, you can use an aluminum cable, for example, APPV 2x2.5 or 3x2.5, if grounding is expected (most often there is no grounding in residential buildings). You can use a copper cable VVG 2x1.5 - it will be better. Electrical cable must be laid in a PVC corrugated hose designed to completely prevent fire from a short circuit.

Accordingly, the channel for laying the cable must have sufficient width and depth to accommodate the corrugated hose (a corrugated hose with a diameter of 16 mm is suitable for one cable). In turn, a drilled hole in the wall to the loggia should accommodate a metal tube through which, according to the rules for electrical wiring, a cable is passed to the loggia.

At the exit from the hole into the loggia room, the cable is again threaded into the corrugated hose and put into the taut-soldering box of the indoor installation - the place for it is determined and prepared in advance, for its fastening it is necessary to install a wooden mortgage (a board of sufficient size), fix it to a wooden crate.

It is most convenient to place the junction box on the wall separating the loggia from the living room adjacent to it, 250 mm from the existing ceiling (without insulation and decoration). A corrugated hose with an electric cable inside is threaded between the wall and a bar attached to it, if necessary, holes are drilled in the places where the bar and wall fit, slightly larger than the diameter of the corrugated hose. Holes are drilled in the embedded boards for the output of the electrical cable.

Decide on the installation locations for electrical outlets and the switch, the installation location for the lamp (s), a heater hung on the wall - at each installation point of electrical installation products and electrical appliances fixed on the wall, it is required to install mortgages to which these electrical appliances will be attached in turn.

The cable at the installation sites of wiring accessories and in junction boxes is led out to a greater length than is actually necessary - by 70 mm, which will allow in the future to replace the electrical appliance if necessary. In no case should the bare ends of the wiring go beyond the limits of the wiring accessories and junction boxes!

Important: all switches and sockets mounted on an insulated loggia must be external installation only.

Important: connections of the electric cable supplying power from the living quarters to the loggia, with cables supplying power to sockets and switches, should be made in the junction box only through the DIN rail of the terminal block - no twists!

After completing the wiring, turn off the general power supply of the apartment and connect the wiring of the loggia in the junction box of the living room or in the outlet to which the channel was pierced. Connection in any variant (junction box or socket) is carried out via a terminal block (DIN-rail).

Please note that direct contact of copper and aluminum cables during twisting will cause heat aluminum wire, which can lead to a fire - the mediation of a terminal block with steel contacts will eliminate heating and the risk of fire. Use the terminal block in any case, even if the wiring of the apartment is completely made of copper cable. If there is no DIN rail in the old junction box in the room, purchase and connect electrical cables through it.

So, all the work on laying the electrical wiring to the loggia is completed - we turn on the power supply of the apartment and make sure that there is power in all electrical installation products. Next, we close up the grooved channel in the living room and again we take up the insulation of the loggia.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - continue

We return to the insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia. The beam is already fixed, the line for laying mineral wool and vapor barrier, you will need knitting wire. We cut the mineral wool into blocks in width equal to the sections between the beam on the walls and the ceiling, we start laying it from the ceiling - you will need an assistant.

From the tools you need a construction stapler with 12 mm staples - we fasten the end of the knitting wire to the edge of the beam with them, lay the insulation and hold it with wire, leading it between two adjacent wooden blocks in a zigzag manner, securing each sharp corner with a staple from the stapler.

Having finished laying the insulation on the ceiling, we move on to the outer walls - the wall between the loggia and the living room can not be insulated, because it is already “warm”, but the beam is attached to it in the same way as on the outer walls. Therefore, try to place the wiring accessories on this wall - it will not need to be insulated and covered with a vapor barrier film, which means that there will be no difficulty in placing the insulation under the mortgage plate for the electrical outlet or switch.

A vapor barrier film must be placed on top of the insulation, slightly stretched and fixed - it must be applied to the surface, fixed on the upper beam and further along the perimeter of the walls (ceiling). The installation of the film should start from the plane of the ceiling. In the areas where the walls and ceiling meet, it is necessary to overlap the film fixed on the walls by about 50 mm. In those places where the electrical installation products are located, the film is slightly cut and tightened around the cable going to the product, i.e. the electrical cable is pushed through it.

Important: the installation of a vapor barrier film is mandatory, otherwise the wooden beam will rot, and the mineral wool will sag under the influence of moisture penetrating in the form of steam from the room. Water vapor will be generated due to high pressure indoors and be attracted to external walls, the partial pressure outside of which is lower due to the lower temperature of the cold season.

Finishing of walls, ceiling and floor

Walls and ceilings can be finished with various coatings - plastic or MDF panels, drywall or clapboard. As a floor covering, you can use laminate, linoleum, or save money and simply cover the base of the floor with two layers of varnish or paint.

The finishing sheathing should start from the ceiling, then the floor is covered, and only after that - the wall sheathing. After installation of the floor covering, its entire surface should be covered again with PVC film to protect it from damage during wall cladding. IN wall covering a hole is cut in the installation area of ​​the junction box, only holes for the electrical cable are cut in the installation sites of electrical installation products - I remind you that all sockets and switches must be outdoor installation, i.e., protruding completely above the plane of the wall covering.

At the end of the sheathing of the external walls of the loggia, sockets and switches are connected to the cable that supplies power to them and mounted in their places.

Work on the insulation of the loggia ends with the installation of a plinth and, in the case of sheathing with plastic or MDF panels, butt rails on all edges and corners formed by wall and ceiling coverings.

If you intend to replace the existing loggia door with a new one, then its installation must be carried out before laying the lags or the base of the floor and before installing the timber on the walls.published

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