PPU spraying - all types of house insulation with polyurethane foam. How to make roof insulation, the choice of materials for pitched and flat roofs Insulation of roof overhangs

Large country - large volumes of housing construction. Not only multi-storey, but also private. And every developer needs and needs knowledge on general issues of construction, on norms and rules, including about roofing processes.

Competently executed roof structures is not only a guarantee warm home and comfortable atmosphere, but also the durability of other elements of the structure.

The device of a roof is an important stage of construction of buildings.

Physical processes of heat transfer

In a heated house, temperature changes are inevitable, the presence of moisture in the air in the form of steam, condensate. Steam is produced by the vital activity of a person or animals, penetrates building structures, cools and moistens them. Overwhelming majority building materials allow air to pass through to some extent. Therefore, any residential building, individual or multi-apartment, is an air volume in which warm air rises through all structures.

In high-rise buildings, a traction effect appears. Warm air rises to the upper floors, this is especially noticeable in the entrances, and penetrates outside through windows and attics. On the lower floors, on the contrary, there is an influx of outside cold air. This process also occurs in a one-story heated house, only with less dynamics.

On the other hand, warm air vapor condenses into water in the structures, which not only moistens them, but also has the ability to flow down, filling the cavities in the structures. The main function of water vapor condensation is assumed by the uppermost part of the building - the roof. In winter, this process is intensive and constant, and in summer it is predominantly at cool night time.

The most modern and effective method prevent or significantly reduce moisture condensation in the roof - make it ventilated naturally or forcedly. Natural cold ventilation does not require energy costs, so its design is preferable. However, there are roofs of complex architecture that lack the power of natural ventilation, then forced ventilation comes to the rescue.

Ventilation removes warm, moist air into the surrounding space, thereby leaving bearing structures, heaters dry, prolonging the service life and providing thermal insulation. We need to manage this process, which is carried out with the help of the so-called roofing pie.

The concept appeared relatively recently and denotes a multilayer roof structure, in which the leading place is given to the creation of ventilation ducts. There are two types of roofing cake: for heated and insulated rooms and for cold roof. Each layer is interconnected functionally with other layers, and the absence of any reduces the protective properties of the entire pie.

If the attic is a cold, uninsulated part of the building, it is carried out in several successive layers. The following tools are required for work.

• hammer;
• drill with drills 4-12 mm;
• wood saw;
• stapler (stapler) electric or mechanical with staples 14x8 mm;
• level, meter ruler, square;
• scissors;
• screwdrivers different sizes;
• flute brush for antiseptic cutting of wooden parts;
• construction sealant.

On the upper side of the rafters, a waterproofing film is laid (not to be confused with a vapor barrier). The sag of the film should be 20-40 mm to drain condensate. It is fixed along the rafters with a counter-lattice 30-50 mm thick and as wide as the thickness of the rafters themselves. It is better to glue the film at the attachment point with double-sided tape.

To reduce waste, the film can be laid in horizontal rows from the bottom up and with an overlap of 100-150 mm. The joints of the strips are glued, creating a continuous web. The water formed from the condensate will flow down the film to the roof eaves.

After the installation of a waterproofing layer, a crate for roofing is sewn across the rafters on the counter-lattice. The width of the board, the gap between them is selected depending on the roofing material.

1. For ceramic and soft tiles on the crate, use an inch board 100 mm wide. It is laid with a gap of 50-100 mm, after which it is completely sewn up from above with a building board or waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm. Under soft tiles still lay the underlying layer.
2. The crate from the board 30x100 and with a step of 300-400 mm is performed under a metal tile or corrugated board;
3. For a metal seam roof, a crate is used from an inch board 150-250 mm wide, sewn onto a counter-batten with a minimum gap of 20-50 mm.

At the end, roofing material is laid directly on the crate or building slab. It is fastened with special nails, screws or clamps to the crate. The roof attachment points are protected with sealants, and the crate is pre-treated with an antiseptic. Additionally, you can perform a rough filing along the rafters from the side of the attic.

Between the roof and a ventilation gap appeared in the total thickness of the battens and counter-battens. This is 55-80 mm of the height of the under-roof space along the slope of the rafters. In winter, the warmer attic air, partially penetrating through the waterproofing, will rise to the roof ridge and be discharged into the atmosphere without having time to condense moisture. And in summer, the air heated by the roof is also removed from under the roof.

Attic ventilation is important for the under-roof space. It is carried out through the dormer windows, arranged on the gables from different sides. Ventilation of the living space, attic and roof space are interconnected, and one of their goals is to reduce steam and condensation in the roofing pie.

Ventilated insulated roof construction

Often the attic is used as an attic, insulated from the side of the roof. In this case, several more layers are added to the roofing cake. Now there is no attic air gap between the living space and the roof. Warm and humid attic air immediately penetrates into the under-roof space. And if you don't accept additional measures on its removal, there will be much more condensate and the structures will begin to get wet. Thermal insulation materials will no longer perform their functions and the air in the room will be cold. We'll have to increase the heating.

In addition to those layers that have already been completed in cold roof, add a thick layer of insulation, laid between the rafters from the inside. If ordinary rafters are 150 mm wide, then the thickness of the insulation between the rafters can be no more than 100 mm. The reason is the need to leave a minimum gap (do not touch) until the waterproofing sags, which reaches 40 mm. If there is a touch, the water flowing down the insulation will enter the insulation. To increase the thickness of the layer, a timber of the required thickness is sewn onto the rafters and a heater is added.

Then it is covered with a vapor barrier film. The goal is to minimize the ingress of steam from the room into the insulation so that it does not get wet. Wet insulation is no good, it does not hold heat and, in addition, moisturizes the surrounding structures. First, a rough, and then a finishing lining is sewn onto the vapor barrier.

Now the path of wet steam to the roof is blocked, and although a small part of it still penetrates, it is carried out into the atmosphere by the under-roof ventilation air flow without harming the roof structures. And if the warm room itself is not ventilated, where will the steam go? Through all sorts of microscopic pores and crevices, it will still go up to the roof. This will be facilitated by the excess pressure formed in the warm room of the attic.

To relieve excessive pressure, reduce the moisture content in the living room and thereby help under-roof ventilation to remove moist air into the atmosphere will allow the ventilation of the room itself.

Ventilated cornice device

Longitudinal ventilation ducts roofing pie will not work effectively if, on the one hand, in the lower part, at the very cornice, there is no inflow atmospheric air. On the other hand, you need to let humidified air out of the very top of the roof - from the ridge.

The waterproofing film is the most durable of all types of films used in building a house, so it does not allow water or moisture to pass through even under high pressure.

The waterproofing film is removed and glued with a sealant to a metal cornice strip installed in the plane of the crate. The roof is fixed on top. Air flow is carried out in 3 ways. Firstly, through the gaps of the roofing material profile, secondly, through the gable overhangs and, thirdly, through the micropores of the waterproofing film, drawing steam out of the insulation.

When sheathing the cornice, ventilation holes or gaps are provided in its lower part, depending on the many options for the design of the cornice. One of modern ways- this is a continuous filing of the cornice plastic panels perforated for roof ventilation.

Creating a ridge hood

Depending on the design of the roof covering, the air flow from under the roof is collected in the ridge and discharged into the atmosphere either through structural gaps along the length of the ridge or through gable openings. For example, a set of ceramic and metal tiles includes special ridge elements with ventilation gaps. Additionally, there are additional elements for a non-standard ridge shape.

This is the outer part of the roof. The internal device is performed in a certain sequence.

• the counter-lattice along the rafters is not brought to the geometric height at the same distance of 20-40 mm. Bars of oncoming slopes do not join;
• a crate in 2 solid boards from both slopes on the ridge is also performed with a longitudinal gap of 40-80 mm;
• the waterproofing film along the ridge is cut with a margin of 200 mm from both slopes;
• between the ends of the counter-lattice and the batten along the ridge, a 40x100 mm ridge beam is vertically installed;
• a waterproofing sheet is fixed to it and glued with a sealant;
• from above, this structure is closed with a ridge according to the instructions and technology;
• end elements of the ridge are installed from the side of the gables, in which ventilation holes or gaps are provided.

Some features of a ventilated roof

Roof ventilation is not an independent process. On the contrary, ventilation or its absence in the premises directly affects the air exchange in the roof. In order to effectively remove destructive moisture from residential premises through the roof, it is necessary to consider the ventilation of all elements of the building as a single process.

If the shape of the roof is complex, has many transitions, valleys, the ventilation processes must be divided into sections and air flows in the roof should be formed separately. As a result of effective ventilation, the air in the under-roof space should be replaced approximately 2 times within an hour.

The effectiveness of a ventilated roof depends on the slope of the slopes. The steeper they are, the stronger the ventilation process occurs. And, conversely, in roofs with a slope of less than 20%, under-roof ventilation is unstable, effective only under wind pressure.

Always is useful device on the roof of additional exhaust elements (aerators), which help to enhance the natural ventilation of the roof. They should be placed on roofs of complex shape, when conventional means are no longer enough. Aerators are installed near the ridge.

The thermal insulation properties of the insulation and the durability of roof structures directly depend on the presence of moisture in them. Therefore, a ventilated roof and the design of ventilation of the premises is economically beneficial even in the case when it is necessary to install forced air exchange.

When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, observing the technology.

Empirically and by calculations, it has long been established that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, through attic floor and the roof takes from 20 to 30% of the heat, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning was wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of the house, you can save all subsequent years on its heating.

It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many homeowners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, the thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year is capable of performing three functions:

- in winter, it keeps the heat in the house;

- in the summer it does not allow the attic space to heat up, which means that it will be cool in the house;

- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.

Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.

You may be interested in information on how liquid insulation is produced

Types of insulation for roof construction

The choice of insulation must also be made with skill, providing for the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Increased moisture resistance.
• Low flammability.
• Ecological cleanliness.
• Material durability.

The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:

• Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
• Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
• Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
• Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
• Expanded clay of different fractions (floor insulation).

In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves were traditionally used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, as they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.

All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.

This table shows the main characteristics of the most popular heaters today:

Material parameters	materials	Thickness, mm
		50	60	80	100	120	150	200	250
Density, kg/m³	Mineral wool	100-120
	Styrofoam	25-35
	polyurethane foam	54-55
Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W	Mineral wool	1.19	1.43	1.9	2.38	2.86	3.57	4.76	5.95
	Styrofoam	1.35	1.62	2.16	2.7	3.24	4.05	5.41	6.76
	polyurethane foam	1.85	2.22	2.96	3.7	4.44	5.56	7.41	9.26
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K)	Mineral wool	0,038-0,052
	Styrofoam	0.037
	polyurethane foam	0.027
Weight 1 m², kg	Mineral wool	15.2	15.8	17.6	20.9	23.2	26.7	32.4	38.2
	Styrofoam	9.8	10	10.5	11	11.5	12.3	13.5	14.8
	polyurethane foam	11.2	11.7	12.8	13.9	15	16.6	19.3	22

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic rooms of a wooden house.

One of the most comfortable materials- mineral wool

Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its type:

• Slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick, 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for attic insulation, so you should not deceive yourself with its low cost, since insulation will have to be done again in a couple of years.

Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, having been saturated with it, it settles and loses its heat-insulating qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation withstands a temperature of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.

The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you can notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and prickly. Therefore, this type is best for residential premises. mineral wool do not apply.

• Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and cullet. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to the airiness and increase the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.

Advanced modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.

Glass wool is widely used for insulation of stone buildings, it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated the attic version of the under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.

Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the fabric, can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into Airways. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a thick fabric suit, special goggles, a respirator and gloves.

• Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.

To Work with stone wool much simpler, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, and their length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located randomly and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.

Prices for basalt wool

basalt wool

Besides, basalt insulation inert to chemical influences and well tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.

All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, as foil reflects and retains heat indoors.

The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber-binding substance, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.

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Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for home insulation, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other heaters, including sprayed polyurethane foam.

Slabs of conventional Styrofoam - Styrofoam (left), and extruded

Styrofoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.

moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, while simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.

Therefore, choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and to protect the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of wiring and correct installation chimney channels (pipes).

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and overlapping structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a sufficiently large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulation layer will be completely sealed. Solidifying and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), with moisture absorption not more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

Sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in fitting the finished coating to the level of the truss system for further finishing or roofing work.

Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without retaining steam and not letting moisture into the room.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or sloped, as it has high adhesion with all building materials.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying of this material can be carried out in a "dry" and "wet" way.

Environmentally friendly material - ecowool

• In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. This method will not work on walls and roof structures.
• For the "wet" installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then distributed under pressure through a pipe to ceilings and walls.

"Wet" laying of ecowool

• Another option for warming with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulating materials, and these include the following:

• This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
• Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
• If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
• The installation of insulation is carried out quickly enough.
• Ecowool has a long service life without losing the original thermal insulation qualities.
• Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore, it has a very low combustibility and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
• Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless hermetic coating of the required thickness.
• The insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture does not linger in it.
• The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.

The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel	Ecowool (cellulose)
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K)	0,016-0,018	0,038-0,041
Density, kg/m³	200-400	42-75
Density of contact with the structure	Depending on the faction:	Tight fit, well clogs all the cracks and cracks
	- 15-20 mm - the presence of voids;
	- 5-10 mm - snug fit.
Linear shrinkage	absent
Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h	0.3	0.67
Chemical inertness	neutral
combustibility	incombustible	G1-G2 (weakly combustible material, because flame retardant treated
Moisture absorption,% by weight	10-25	14-16

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is very often used for warming the attic floor of a wooden house. Certainly, truss system expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but filling it between floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.

This material is made from specially prepared clay, undergoing high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is made in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.

Fraction, mm	Bulk density, kg/m³	Total material density, kg/m³	Compressive strength MPa
1 - 4	400	800 - 1200	2,0 - 3,0
4 - 10	335 - 350	550 - 800	1,2 - 1,4
10 - 30	200 - 250	450 - 650	0,9 - 1,1

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

The advantages of this material:

• Ecological purity. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
• The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
• For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
• Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for wooden structure. This insulation isolates the chimney pipes from wooden floors, filling it in a box built around them.
• Another important advantage of this material is that domestic rodents do not tolerate it. If the house is on suburban area, then mice may well settle in it even in the attic, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!

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Auxiliary materials

In addition to heat-insulating materials, a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film is used in the insulation "pie".

• Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect condensate heater, can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.

This membrane must have steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

If the insulation is carried out in an already assembled structure and it is not planned to change the roofing material, under which the waterproofing membrane should be, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require wind protection, and it can be sprayed on on a reliable basis from boards or directly on a roof covering.

• When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. Vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from the penetration of moisture from the inside.

As you know, excessive moisture that has fallen on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as an unpleasant odor that will eventually pass into living rooms.

If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be fixed under the wall decoration.

When the floor is insulated, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, as it should retain heat in the underlying rooms and prevent wet vapor from them from entering the heat-insulating layer.

The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the ceiling, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected inside the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.

If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the boards of the attic floor, as well as their joints with the beams, are well smeared with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and also allow the insulation layers to “breathe”.

When lime or clay dries well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses for a long time, they were insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.

This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.

Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.

How to calculate the required thickness of insulation?

It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpayment for excess material.

Rasche T t of the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003" Thermal protection of buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23 - 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some allowable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:

δut= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut

We begin to understand the values ​​\u200b\u200bin the formula:

• δut- this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
• R- the required tabular value of thermal resistance (m² × ° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a well-designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature of + 19 ° in the room. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the importance R for walls, ceilings and coverings.

When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coatings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for floors”.

• δ nand λn— the values ​​of the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing "pie" would consist of a solid plywood batten over rafters with a tar paper on top. Below is a layer of insulation to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.

Important - only those outer layers that fit snugly against each other are considered. For example, flat slate You can take into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure assumes a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.

Where to get values? Measure the thickness of each of the layers ( δ n) – will not be labor. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not specified in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:

Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials
Material	Density of materials in a dry state, kg/m3	Estimated coefficients at various conditions exploitation
		ω		λ		μ
		A	B	A	B	A, B
λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa)
A. Polymer
Styrofoam	150	1	5	0.052	0.06	0.05
Same	100	2	10	0.041	0.052	0.05
Same	40	2	10	0.041	0.05	0.05
Extruded polystyrene foam	25	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Same	28	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Same	33	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Same	35	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Same	45	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1	125	2	10	0.06	0.064	0.23
Same	100 or less	2	10	0.05	0.052	0.23
polyurethane foam	80	2	5	0.05	0.05	0.05
Same	60	2	5	0.041	0.041	0.05
Same	40	2	5	0.04	0.04	0.05
perlitoplastconcrete	200	2	3	0.052	0.06	0.008
Same	100	2	3	0.041	0.05	0.008
Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber Aeroflex	80	5	15	0.04	0.054	0.003
Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35	35	2	3	0.029	0.03	0.018
Same. type 45	45	2	3	0.031	0.032	0.015
B. Mineral wool, fiberglass
Mineral wool mats	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.3
Same	100	2	5	0.061	0.067	0.49
Same	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.49
Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder	225	2	5	0.072	0.082	0.49
Same	175	2	5	0.066	0.076	0.49
Same	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.49
Same	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.53
Soft, semi-rigid and rigid mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bituminous binders	250	2	5	0.082	0.085	0.41
Same	225	2	5	0.079	0.084	0.41
Same	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.49
Same	150	2	5	0.068	0.073	0.49
Same	125	2	5	0.064	0.069	0.49
Same	100	2	5	0.06	0.065	0.56
Same	75	2	5	0.056	0.063	0.6
Mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on an organophosphate binder	200	1	2	0.07	0.076	0.45
Semi-rigid mineral wool boards on a starch binder	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.38
Same	125	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.38
Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder	45	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.6
Mats and strips of glass fiber stitched	150	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.53
URSA Glass Staple Fiber Mats	25	2	5	0.043	0.05	0.61
Same	17	2	5	0.046	0.053	0.66
Same	15	2	5	0.048	0.053	0.68
Same	11	2	5	0.05	0.055	0.7
URSA Glass Staple Fiber Boards	85	2	5	0.046	0.05	0.5
Same	75	2	5	0.042	0.047	0.5
Same	60	2	5	0.04	0.045	0.51
Same	45	2	5	0.041	0.045	0.51
Same	35	2	5	0.041	0.046	0.52
Same	30	2	5	0.042	0.046	0.52
Same	20	2	5	0.043	0.048	0.53
Same	17 .	2	5	0.047	0.053	0.54
Same	15	2	5	0.049	0.055	0.55
B. Slabs made from natural organic and inorganic materials
Wood fiber boards and chipboards	1000	10	12	0.23	0.29	0.12
Same	800	10	12	0.19	0.23	0.12
Same	600	10	12	0.13	0.16	0.13
Same	400	10	12	0.11	0.13	0.19
Same	200	10	12	0.07	0.08	0.24
Fiberboard slabs and wood concrete on Portland cement	500	10	15	0.15	0.19	0.11
Same	450	10	15	0.135	0.17	0.11
Same	400	10	15	0.13	0.16	0.26
Reed slabs	300	10	15	0.09	0.14	0.45
Same	200	10	15	0.07	0.09	0.49
Heat-insulating peat slabs	300	15	20	0.07	0.08	0.19
Same	200	15	20	0.06	0.064	0.49
Plaster boards	1350	4	6	0.5	0.56	0.098
Same	1100	4	6	0.35	0.41	0.11
Gypsum sheathing sheets (gypsum board)	1050	4	6	0.34	0.36	0.075
Same	800	4	6	0.19	0.21	0.075
G. backfill
Expanded clay gravel	600	2	3	0.17	0.19	0.23
Same	500	2	3	0.15	0.165	0.23
Same	450	2	3	0.14	0.155	0.235
Same	400	2	3	0.13	0.145	0.24
Same	350	2	3	0.125	0.14	0.245
Same	300	2	3	0.12	0.13	0.25
Same	250	2	3	0.11	0.12	0.26
D. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials
Pine and spruce across the grain	500	15	20	0.14	0.18	0.06
Pine and spruce along the grain	500	15	20	0.29	0.35	0.32
Oak across the grain	700	10	15	0.18	0.23	0.05
Oak along the grain	700	10	15	0.35	0.41	0.3
Plywood	600	10	13	0.15	0.18	0.02
Facing cardboard	1000	5	10	0.21	0.23	0.06
Multilayer construction cardboard	650	6	12	0.15	0.18	0.083
E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials
- Asbestos-cement
Asbestos-cement flat sheets	1800	2	3	0.47	0.52	0.03
Same	1600	2	3	0.35	0.41	0.03
- Bituminous
Bitumen oil construction and roofing	1400	0	0	0.27	0.27	0.008
Same	1200	0	0	0.22	0.22	0.008
Same	1000	0	0	0.17	0.17	0.008
asphalt concrete	2100	0	0	1.05	1.05	0.008
Products from expanded perlite on a bituminous binder	400	1	2	0.12	0.13	0.04
Same	300	1	2	0.09	0.099	0.04

Note that there are two values ​​given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B . These regimes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.

Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which and choose the value λ n.

Humidity conditions of the premises	Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme)
	dry zone	normal zone	wet zone
Dry	A	A	B
Normal	A	B	B
Wet or wet	B	B	B

• λut - coefficient of thermal conductivity for the selected type of insulation, according to which the calculation of the thickness is carried out.

Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, it is possible to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!

To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides for the calculation for three layers (not counting the insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.

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The required thickness of the enclosing structure for wall insulation

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Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying, which means that it can repeat the shape of any even complex surface and completely eliminates the presence of cold bridges in your thermal insulation.

Its adhesion to any surface is so high that there are no restrictions on the use of sprayed polyurethane foam.

The chemical and at the same time biological resistance of polyurethane foam makes it the only one among heaters that can withstand the effects of aggressive environments, bacteria and representatives of the fauna for many years.

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Let's create warmth together!

In order for the roof to perform its functions qualitatively and serve for a long time, it must be insulated. There are many materials and methods for installing a heat-insulating layer, and the choice of the appropriate technology is always carried out individually. This article will discuss how to properly install insulation on the roof of a private house.

The need for roof insulation

Of course, the final decision on whether to insulate the roof is made by the owner of the house - but before that, you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for the arrangement of the roof and the effort required to install the heat-insulating layer.

However, the financial costs and efforts will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not intended to be used as residential, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the floor of the attic or the ceiling of residential premises. In order for the structure not to rot, high-quality ventilation of the roof will be required.

The most relevant roof insulation will be when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic is to be used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.

How to properly insulate a flat roof

When warming flat roof it must be borne in mind that thermal insulation can be both on the inside and on the outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter, decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.

The roofing pie of a flat roof consists of:

• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation layer;
• waterproofing layer;
• Bulk layer.

For the arrangement of external thermal insulation, basalt mineral wool is most often used, which is optimally suited for these purposes. However, you can choose from any type of rigid insulation - for example, expanded polystyrene would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that roofing that is prone to fire cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.

Pitched roof insulation

thermal insulation pitched roof installed on the truss system. Before laying the insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.

The pitched roof consists of the following elements:

• roofing;
• waterproofing layer;
• Thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier material;
• Interior decoration(optional).

Mineral wool is most often used as a heat-insulating material, which has high performance characteristics and is relatively inexpensive. The main disadvantage mineral insulation is the ability to absorb moisture, due to which the thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.

To compensate for the described disadvantage, the design must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the wrong side of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones should be treated with protective compounds before installation.

In addition, for effective insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, so you need to equip ventilation ducts between:

• layer of waterproofing and top coat;
• Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
• Vapor barrier material and inner lining.

Materials for insulation of pitched roofs

For roof insulation, various materials can be used, among which the most popular are:

• Mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam.

The characteristics and features of the materials are different, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials released in the form of plates - they are much more convenient to mount.

For the arrangement of the waterproofing layer, an ordinary roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane is most often used, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you need to ensure that the tightness of the material has not been violated.

Vapor barrier can be equipped from different materials, among which:

• Ruberoid;
• Polyethylene film;
• glassine;
• foil materials.

However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option there will be a vapor barrier membrane that works on the principle of one-way moisture transmission - condensate is removed from the insulation and does not enter the internal cavities of the roofing pie.

Roof insulation algorithm - how to lay thermal insulation

Installation of a roof with insulation is reduced to the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the installation step of the rafter legs is measured. Plates of heat-insulating material are cut in accordance with the dimensions obtained, but 1 cm is added to them - this will enable the insulation to stay in place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when arranging a new roof by calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation boards.
2. A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the finish coat. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. For fixing, you can use a construction stapler, with which the waterproofing is attached to rafter legs and crate. waterproofing material it is necessary to bring to the cornice overhangs so that the collected moisture goes beyond the roof. The described method of fastening does not allow to equip full ventilation, therefore, only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
3. If the waterproofing is already installed under the upper part of the roof, then nails are driven into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. air layer in the space between the waterproofing and the thermal insulation material. In the event that the insulation itself is fastened with a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outside of the rafters.
4. When using heaters released in the form of plates, installation comes down to inserting them into the space between the rafters (naturally, they will have to be squeezed a little so that they go into the gap). More rigid materials must be carefully adjusted to fit the gaps in the rafter system before properly insulating the roof. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing a two-layer insulation.
5. When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The layer of thermal insulation should not extend beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then additional timber will have to be filled on the rafters.
6. To fix the insulation, a cord stretched between the nails or a crate made of slats can be used. These slats need to be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be fixed before the crate is installed - due to the thickness of the rails, an air gap is provided.
7. When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed tightly. To do this, the joints must be closed with two layers of adhesive tape. Particular attention should be paid to the points where the material is connected to the wall and chimney. When all structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - the installation of the skin.

Conclusion

Roof insulation is a very important part of the design, which allows you to increase thermal efficiency roofs. Knowing how to properly lay the insulation on the roof, and the high-quality performance of all work will allow you to create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.

Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also to maximize the preservation of heat throughout the house.

If the building has mansard roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only a roof for the future room, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

The third option of thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

Types of insulation used

The modern building materials market offers a lot of types of heaters, of which you can choose suitable for any thermal insulation work.

• Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of various fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for backfilling in the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

• Mineral wool various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for warming both attic floors and.

All these materials are light enough, so they will not make the structure of the roof and the whole house heavier, but will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing heat-insulating materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and maintaining their performance, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.

Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Vapor barrier coatings

One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensate. Excess moisture provokes the appearance of mold fungus, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance bad smell in room.

The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof structure or ceiling before laying insulation materials.

When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

In order to protect structures that are affected on the one hand by high temperatures, and on the other hand, low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing with its insulation. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.

The protective film can have different thicknesses and be different types- ordinary non-woven material or foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping. Between themselves, the sheets of material are fastened with foil tape, which helps to create a tight seal.

Prices for different types of insulating films

Insulating films

Attic floor insulation

Any warming measures are best carried out during the construction of a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.

Before filling or laying insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if expanded clay of fine fraction, slag or sawdust is used.

• Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

- The boards fixed to the floor beams were carefully smeared with a solution of clay or lime, which had a consistency of medium density. These natural materials create a good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time they allow the whole structure to “breathe”.

- After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.

• In modern construction, mainly for flooring under insulation, a special vapor barrier film is used. Her canvases are laid completely over the entire attic area with an overlap of 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and fixing them on boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

The film will become an additional barrier to the exit of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air, ascending, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.

• Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

• To avoid thermal bridges through wooden beams, they also need to fix a layer of thin insulation.

• Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation material, in the same way as before - overlapped. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter-battens.
• A coating of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

Sometimes a vapor barrier can be fixed from inside the room to wooden ceiling, but in this case it will be necessary to finish it, for example, with gypsum boards. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.

Insulation of roof slopes

When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, apply mineral wool and styrofoam, but mineral wool in this case, it is preferable, since it has almost zero flammability.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not combustible, and this is very important for wooden structures.

Used to insulate roof slopes different systems, but they always have a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and a counter-lattice.

1. This diagram shows one of the options for an insulating "pie". It is used in the construction of the roof and roofing flooring.

• It is laid on the rafter system. Usually, polyethylene is used for this layer, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from the penetration of wind under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters with staples and a stapler.
• On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed to each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
• Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter rails. In the case when slate or other hard sheet material, instead of plywood, a crate is arranged, the width between its slats is calculated from the length of the sheets of roofing material.
• When the crate is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.

• Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out, starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less. her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
• The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

Final stage - decorative trim attic walls

• Further, if the attic space will be equipped as a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with drywall or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

2. Another option may be a thicker insulating "pie", which also fits immediately when the roof is being installed.

• In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
• On top of it, a crate for roofing material is arranged.
• Further from the side of the attic, between the rafters, the first layer of insulation must have equal to the width of the rafters.
• Then, transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, the insulation is used already thinner. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stuffed transverse rails.
• After that comes vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rails with brackets.
• The interior trim material is then attached to the rails.

If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roofing is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the side of the attic with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous versions.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam goes differently than bulk materials or mineral wool mats and polystyrene.

This method of thermal insulation has recently become more and more popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and an attic, which will later become an additional room.

If the attic is ventilated, and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed on the wet surface between the beams. After it foams, increases in volume and solidifies, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, as the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is attic superstructure to the house, in addition to covering with polyurethane foam, roof slopes are also insulated.

Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.

A similar or attic creates a completely sealed non-ventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors in winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.

This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

• The polyurethane foam coating has no joints and seams over the entire insulated area.
• A significant reduction in temperature fluctuations in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
• The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
• This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
• When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional stiffness and strength, as roofing forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to a significant weighting of the roof.
• Convenience application - foam closes everything hard-to-reach places roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and crevices, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
• Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
• Foam gives not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
• Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
• The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
• The material does not emit toxic human body substances and odors.

The "cons" of the sprayed insulation include the following factors:

• The toxicity of the material during its application, so you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory protective equipment for the skin, eyes and respiratory organs

• Polyurethane foam is susceptible negative influence ultraviolet rays, so after applying the insulation it must be closed finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• For installation work for insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can also be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside

Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, so this process should not be postponed "for later", but thermal insulation work should be carried out even at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the insulation of the roof may well be completed in a few days.