Rhododendron planting and care. Rhododendron - planting and care, pruning rules. Cultivation in various climatic conditions. soil requirements. Suitable deciduous varieties

The rhododendron plant is represented by a wide variety of species - it can be a shrub, a semi-shrub and even a tree. Their dimensions can be quite different: from small, creeping shrubs to tree-like varieties growing up to 30 meters in height. There are representatives with leaves falling for the winter and evergreen specimens. This genus also includes indoor azalea. The distribution area is also very extensive: from Asia to North America.

This plant belongs to the Heather family. The flowers that adorn the rhododendron shrub are tiny or very large, up to 20 cm in diameter. Color pleases with a variety of shades. Petals most often fold into a pipe, forming funnel-shaped flowers, collected in lush inflorescences. In beauty, they are not inferior to the queen of flowers - the rose. The leaves also vary greatly in shape and arrangement on the stem.

Types and varieties of culture

pink rhododendron tree

Pink rhododendron has incredible beauty: planting and caring for it does not cause any problems. This species has become one of the most favorite among gardeners. It is often called rosewood as it can reach two to three meters in height and is lavishly decorated with bright, pink-purple flowers that form beautiful inflorescences of 5-9 pieces that exude lovely fragrance. It grows slowly, during the year the shoots grow only 5-8 cm. It sheds foliage for the winter, winters well, tolerates frosts down to -30 ° C.

Varieties of pink rhododendron

Beautiful pink-colored rhododendron Amoena planting and caring for which will allow you to get a whole cloud of pink flowers, is characterized by the fact that it belongs to the evergreen varieties. An equally remarkable variety from this category is the Pierce American Beauty rhododendron: planting and caring for which does not differ from the standard approaches to keeping other members of the genus.

This shrub grows up to 1.8 m, and in breadth it will grow up to 3 meters. During flowering, it is covered with raspberry-pink balls of inflorescences, in which you can count up to 18 beautiful, bell-shaped flowers. The diameter of each of them is about 7 cm, in shape they resemble a wide funnel. The upper petals are decorated with dark brown dots. The bush blooms for a long time and plentifully, for 20 days delighting the soul with its magnificence.

Rules for planting rhododendron at their summer cottage

In order for the care of the rhododendron to give good results, it is necessary to approach the choice of a site for its placement with all responsibility.

Properly carried out planting of rhododendron and caring for it in the future, in compliance with simple rules, will ensure the lush flowering of the shrub. Russian climatic conditions are not suitable for all types of plants. Therefore, you should choose cold-resistant varieties suitable for temperate latitudes. There are a great many of them, and some of them have been mentioned above.

Site selection and neighbors

It all starts with the selection of a site in the garden, where the shrub will grow for many years. Here you need to take into account several points. Firstly, the roots of the plant spread almost at the very surface of the earth. Therefore, the garden rhododendron is demanding of its neighbors: planting and caring for it include a mandatory item - a careful selection of the environment. It depends on this whether the shrub will develop normally, whether it will not burn out, as well as the quality of its flowering.

Which neighbors are best?

It is categorically contraindicated to plant rhododendron next to trees with superficial roots - spruce, linden. It is not recommended to place shrubs near birch, maple, aspen, chestnut. They will not leave a chance for the rhododendron to receive water and nutrients in full. It is best to plant it next to a pine or oak, as their rhizomes go deep underground. You can plant seedlings in the vicinity of fruit trees, but in such a way that they are not in constant shadow from the crown.

Choosing a suitable site

Regarding the choice of site, it must be reliably protected from the wind and the scorching sun. It is advisable to protect the branches of the plant from aggressive influences. sun rays summer at midday and afternoon. You can plant a plant next to a fence or wall of a house facing north or northeast. No matter how strange it may seem, but it is these cardinal points - the best choice for rhododendron.

Why north or northeast?

The fact is that the plant has a property that everyone who is going to plant it needs to know about, so as not to ask the question later: why does the rhododendron not bloom, and its leaves burn? The bush forms buds in late summer and during autumn. They produce the most beautiful flowers in spring. During last days winters - the first spring days, the kidneys, under the influence of the bright sun, begin to actively lose moisture. Given that sunny february and March may be their complete dehydration.

Before the roots wake up (and this will happen no earlier than April), the embryos of future buds may completely lose their ability to bloom. For the same reason, the foliage burns. Therefore, it is very important to protect the shrub from the early, active exposure to the sun's rays in the spring. Otherwise, it will be possible not to wait for flowering from the bush, or it will bloom its flowers - bluebells only on the north side.

Planting rules

It is best to plant rhododendrons in the spring. The root system of the bush does not differ in large dimensions, so it will be necessary to prepare a hole for it, 0.5 m deep, with a diameter of 0.7-0.8 m. If it is planned to plant several bushes, then, depending on the variety, it is necessary to leave a distance of 0.8-2 m so that the plants do not overlap each other with a crown in the future.

Plants of this genus love watering, but do not live in permanently waterlogged soil. This must be taken into account and lay out drainage at the bottom of the dug hole. Its layer should be about 18 cm. After that, the soil is laid, consisting of peat, deciduous forest land and coniferous litter. All components are taken in a ratio of 2:3:1 and thoroughly mixed. A bush is planted in the prepared hole. Its neck should not go deep into the ground, it should rise a few centimeters above the ground level. The soil surrounding the planted bush needs to be pressed down a little and watered thoroughly.

Features of care in the open field

The rhododendron will not require much work and effort from the gardener: planting and care in the open field involves a classic set of techniques.

The most important of them is top dressing, since the root system is very close to the soil surface and cannot get nutrients from the deep bowels of the earth. Ash should immediately be excluded from the list of suitable dressings for the plant. It lowers the acidity of the soil, due to which the foliage on the bushes may turn yellow. What is the best fertilizer for rhododendrons?

Regular plant nutrition

Speaking about how to feed the rhododendron, you should first of all pay attention to the incompletely rotted coniferous soil, similar to peat with the remains of pine needles. It will not only even out the acidity of the soil, give useful substances to the plant, but also act as a mulching agent. You can also use ordinary peat, which, like coniferous humus, must be laid out around the shrub, trying not to sprinkle the outlet from which the branches grow. From industrial preparations for nourishment vitality plants use Kemira-universal granular top dressing or any liquid mineral fertilizers suitable for this species.

Rules for watering and irrigating crops

The plant loves watering, it is especially important to ensure that the soil around the bush does not dry out in the first year of life. Ordinary tap water is not suitable for rhododendron. Its composition is too heavy for him. It is better to use rain or river water because it is softer. From time to time, the irrigation liquid is acidified with the help of preparations that can be purchased at specialized stores. However, if top dressing is used, made specifically for rhododendrons, and constant mulching with coniferous humus is carried out, it is not necessary to acidify the soil.

Spraying and loosening the bush

Rhododendrons prefer moist air. It has been noticed that more lush inflorescences open where there are water bodies nearby. If such "natural moisturizers" are not available, then once every 7 days it is necessary to spray the plant. Water requirements remain the same as for irrigation. It is better to spray the plants in the morning or evening hours, when there is no scorching sun. The earth near the shrub does not loosen, because nearby, superficial roots can be damaged. It is better to carefully manually remove the weeds, so as not to hurt the root system of the shrub.

Propagation of a rhododendron plant

There are several ways to propagate rhododendron. Before propagating rhododendron, it is necessary to determine the purpose of breeding. If the grower plans to get a new plant that completely matches the original variety, then the bush should be propagated vegetatively using layering or cuttings. When breeding wild varieties of shrubs, you can use the seeds of the mother plant.

Breeding using seeds

In the spring, seeds are planted in separate containers or containers with soil. The soil is prepared from two components - peat and sand. They are taken in equal proportions. It is not necessary to deepen the seeds, they are simply scattered on the surface of the substrate and crushed with a small amount of river sand. Then the earth is watered in boxes. Tap water should be slightly acidified with oxalic acid. It is bred in a minimal amount - only 3-4 grams per ten-liter bucket. The boxes are wrapped in foil and placed in heat.

Seedling care in spring and summer

After 20 days - 1 month, the first shoots of seedlings will appear. The film is removed, and the boxes are placed in a cool room (t- + 8 ° С - + 12 ° С). Watering is done in pallets. When the soil mixture is completely saturated, the water from the pallets is drained. For the summer, containers with young seedlings are taken out into the fresh air, placing them out of direct sunlight. For the first time, seedlings dive in June. At the same time, they are placed, retreating 1.5 cm from the previous sprout.

Seedling care in winter

On winter period they are brought into the house and arrange wintering for them at t- + 18 ° С. At this time, they need additional illumination with fluorescent lamps. Light day for normal seedling growth lasts at least 16 hours a day. At the end of winter, the plants dive for the second time. Now the distance between the seedlings should expand to 3-4 cm. After three years, the shoots move to a permanent place of growth.

Cuttings of rhododendron at home

When cuttings, flowering will come the very next year. Cuttings are cut from stems that are half lignified. Their length is 5-8 cm, the lower edge is cut obliquely. The foliage located below is cut off, and 2-3 leaves on top are not removed. Seedlings are placed in containers with a mixture of sand and peat (equal proportions), or from three parts of sawdust of tree species and 1 part of river sand. At the same time, they are not buried directly, but at an angle, the angle of which should be within 30 ° C. The earth around them is a little tamped and a polyethylene shelter is built.

The temperature during rooting should be about +24 ° C. Do not forget about additional lighting and maintaining good humidity. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into boxes with a soil mixture of peat and coniferous litter (2: 1) and kept at a temperature of + 8 ° C - + 12 ° C until spring. 14 days after transplanting into boxes, they are fertilized with urea (solution concentration -2%). With the onset of stable spring heat, the finished seedlings are planted in the ground.

Indoor rhododendron: why is the azalea whimsical?

The azalea flower is sometimes called the indoor rhododendron: planting and caring for it at home often fails, as all the conditions necessary for it are not met. In most cases, it grows in mountainous areas, which determines its love for moist and cool air and acidic soil. In apartment conditions, it is difficult to find a room with t + 10 ° С -15 ° С, where azaleas will be comfortable. In addition to the fact that dry, warm air is detrimental to the flower itself, it also causes some home rhododendron diseases, such as spider mites. Therefore, choosing this capricious flower, you must immediately make sure that the plant lives "with convenience", otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

The rhododendron plant is a native of Heather. In translation, the name rhododendron means pink tree. This is a fairly well-known plant in growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.

General information

The plant is common in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only the Carpathian rhododendron. But only there it is called in its own way "Chervona Ruta". This species is listed in the Red Book.

The rhododendron flower grows in nature both in groups and single individuals. It is found on the slopes of mountains in swampy areas and in the tundra.

Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions, the height of which is about 30 meters.

The leaves of the plant are of various shapes and sizes too. The foliage is arranged in a spiral pattern. The shape of the leaf is an oblong oval with a slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or corymbs, sometimes solitary. The corolla has a sunny or pinkish hue.

The fruits are formed in the form of boxes with many seeds. There are about 1300 plant species in the natural environment.

Varieties and types

This is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upwards. The foliage is elliptical in shape, about 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide. Inflorescences solitary, pale purple. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the full appearance of the leaves.

A vigorous shrub. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong about 12 cm long. Inflorescences are presented up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

This is an evergreen shrub with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but in more the width of the bush exceeds the height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.

An accelerating view of about two meters in height. The leaves are similar in shape to maple and are located at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink interspersed, the diameter of the flower is about 10 cm.

This is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated about 10 cm long, slightly pubescent. In autumn, it has a yellowish-red hue. Inflorescences are scarlet of a sunny shade, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. The duration of flowering is more than a month.

Pretty common. Due to the abundance of flowers, the leaves are almost completely invisible. The height is about one meter. Bell-shaped inflorescences. The shade of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

Is not large sizes shrub up to half a meter in height. In adult individuals of the plant, the shade of the bark is a dark gray shade. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Juveniles have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.

The inflorescences of the species have a light pink shade having no fragrance. There are about 15 flowers in racemes. Flowering lasts all summer.

About 1 meter 20 centimeters high. With a brown shade of bark. Shoots have a more accelerating character.

The leaves are oblong and oval in shape. The inside of the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. Blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid look is quite demanding in care and planting.

Not a large shrub. Spreading shoots. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is an olive shade, and on the inside a less distinct shade. Inflorescences on high legs, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, the fruit is a box with small seeds. The aroma of the plant is similar to the smell of fresh strawberries.

Not a voluminous tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy outside. The shade of the leaves is a dark olive shade on the outside, and on the inside it has a chocolate shade with small villi.

Inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. Starting flowering, the petals have a pale pink hue, and by the end they become saturated White color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

Has a spherical bush. Hybrid plant from Katevsbinsky rhododendron. The species was bred in 1851. The height of the plant is about 3 meters. Leaves are medium sized and elliptical in shape. Inflorescences with a pink tint and crimson spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.

Rhododendron planting and care

The landing site should be selected slightly shaded. Preferably the northern part. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.

Rhododendron transplantation is done in the fall before the start of frost. Also, transplantation can be done at any necessary period, only a month before flowering, or after the plant has faded in a few weeks.

soil for rhododendrons

The soil for planting should be light, loose with a good layer of drainage. It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilizer. Suitable high-moor peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8: 3.

Stagnation of moisture must be avoided, otherwise the plant will die. It is necessary to plant a plant in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to introduce processed sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted needles of conifers.

At home, you can check if your soil needs acidification. To do this, you need to pour currant or cherry leaves with boiling water, and when the water cools down, throw some earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if red, then it is normal. And if it changes color to green, then the soil is neutral.

Caring for the plant does not require special skills, you just need to loosen the soil in time and remove weeds.

Watering rhododendrons

It is preferable to provide moderate moisture to the plant. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist up to 30 cm deep. You can determine whether it is necessary to water by the appearance of the foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisturizing is necessary.

Rhododendron loves sufficiently humidified air about 65%, therefore it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.

Fertilizer for rhododendrons

The plant should be fertilized from early spring until the end of flowering in mid-summer. Feed with cow liquid manure along with water in a ratio of 1:15. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.

The most practical fertilizer option is in the early spring of mineral and organic complex fertilizers. During flowering cow dung.

Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphate and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.

pruning rhododendrons

Trimming the plant is required as needed to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches are rejuvenated, the thickness of which is about 4 cm.

Plants that overwintered poorly or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.

Shelter of rhododendrons for the winter

It is necessary to cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. To do this, cover the bush with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.

Insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by cuttings

To do this, cuttings are cut from adults. large plants about 8 cm long. Place them in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.

Periodically open for watering and ventilation. Rooting occurs up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and needles.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

To do this, in the spring, a young shoot is added dropwise into a small recess about 16 cm deep and sprinkled with soil, during summer period watered, and when rooting occurs, they are transplanted separately.

Rhododendron propagation by seeds

Seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat, to a depth of about a centimeter. The container is covered with glass and periodically ventilated and moistened the soil. The temperature for seed germination is about 15 degrees.

After the appearance of several pairs of leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate containers, and in open ground the second year after sowing.

Diseases and pests

• Before the onset of cold weather the leaves of the plant begin to turn red and crumble . In other words, the plant is preparing for wintering.
• Rhododendron not blooming the reasons may be different, the soil may not match, there is little light, a lot of nitrogen fertilizer, leads to the growth of branches and leaves, and flowering does not start.
• Leaves turn yellow on rhododendrons from excessive moisture in the root system, it is necessary to monitor moderate moisture.
• Rhododendron not growing due to lack of fertilizer, non-acidic soil or too much sun, and the plant suffers from heat.
• Rhododendron drops leaves This may be due to the dryness of the soil, unsuitable land for planting, or your plant is infested with pests.
• The rhododendron withers and the leaves turn brown the reasons are most likely dry air and insufficient spraying. There may also be excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
• Rhododendron leaves are pale green in low light, the leaves become pale and faded. The second reason is the lack of watering the plant.
• Rhododendron buds not opening the reason is the elevated air temperature, the optimum temperature for a plant indoors is about 16, and outdoors within 22 degrees.
• Rhododendron leaves turned black the cause was the disease chlorosis, it manifests itself with a lack of soil acidity.
• When pests appear on the plant , it is necessary to treat the rhododendron bush with an appropriate insecticide.

• Style: heather
• Flowering period: April May June
• Height: 0.3-1.5m
• Color: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
• perennial
• hibernates
• Shade-loving
• moisture-loving

Hard to imagine suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their magnificent hats throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and the southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. It is not easy to find an approach to it, but the cultivation and care of rhododendrons eventually develops into a hobby for some lovers of rare plants - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in the southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or in Stavropol. However, some varieties, such as Daursky or Canadian, thrive well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, the Urals, or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your country cottage area with its splendid blooms.

Literally translated from Latin, "rhododendron" means "rose tree" - and indeed, with its appearance the plant is very reminiscent of a rose, although it does not belong to rosaceae, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in coastal marine areas.

Mountain varieties are different small size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of cultures is almost limitless. Flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to the luxurious color palette garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, in a growing season convenient for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which continues, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted before this period are already covered with a thick color by the May holidays - against the background of barely hatched foliage and fresh grassy greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right landing site, since the plant will feel uncomfortable in the bright sun, and in a completely darkened place it will not give lush flowering.

It is best to break a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

Not only the walls of the building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shadow barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

• dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
• the lower part is drained with a sand-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
• they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while the peat should be about 2 times more;
• lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earth seedling;
• lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and cover it with soil mixture up to the very root neck, which as a result should be on the same level with the soil surface;
• water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
• mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and chopped oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, thoroughly soak the roots with water before planting - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

An approximate scheme for planting a rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is another trick that contributes to a better development of the root system. At flowering plant cut off the most magnificent buds - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Landing and further care behind rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to do the design of the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style. landscape design your site

The nuances of caring for flowers

Norms proper care for flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and trim in time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, in no case do not use a chopper or garden knife, you can only work manually.

Irrigation mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even while choosing a landing site, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the irrigation and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, previously acidifying the water - for this, 12-20 hours before watering, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water. It is better not to use tap water, in extreme cases, it must be defended. Perfect option- Rain fees. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy sheen and changed turgor, it's time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering shrub of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to be pruned. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until sap flow begins. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with a specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, lasting throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill requires pruning of frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second - next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly violent color, next year expect more modest results. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branched bushes with dense foliage and many buds - a great habitat for insects, half of which are capable of destroying the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for molluscs. Slugs and snails are harvested by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the topsoil around it.

Along with pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and fertilizer selection

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. Superphosphate, potassium sulphate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulphate or calcium, ammonium are used to preserve the acidic medium important for the culture, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring top dressing is made up of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium sulfate or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

An ideal top dressing for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers, such as hornmeal or cow dung. The rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer to 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to renew the topsoil. To do this, peat is mixed in equal proportions with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tablespoon each). As a dry powder, you can use "Agricola" for flowering garden plants. Remember that only carefully watered shrubs need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways of propagating rhododendron in garden conditions:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. dry, healthy seeds sown in pots or boxes with wet peat, add a little sand, cover with glass caps and put in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

Seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm scheme. Seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Propagation by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take the shoots, half-woody, and cut several cuttings from them about 7-8 cm long.

Leaves are removed from the lower part, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in the boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient breeding option is pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and lay the process in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck in the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the whole bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular country varieties

In a coniferous garden, a 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will perfectly get along. It is characterized by abundant flowering of buds, reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom normally

Rhododendron Adams is an eastern guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. In our country it is found infrequently, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties.

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in middle lane Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

Plant rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including such popular azaleas in indoor floriculture, which received the nickname "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses". Azaleas really do look like roses.

In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in South China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in the penumbra of undergrowth and on the northern slopes of mountains. Some rhododendrons are able to grow up to 30 cm in height, while other species are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus vary in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. Garden rhododendron today has about 3000 forms, varieties and varieties.

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• Landing: April to mid-May or September to November.
• Bloom: in late April-early June for 2-3 weeks. Abundant flowering happens in a year.
• Lighting: penumbra or shade.
• The soil: well-drained, loose, rich in humus, acidic.
• Watering: With slightly acidified water, the soil should be soaked to a depth of 20-30 cm. A sign that the time has come for watering is the loss of turgor by the leaves.
• Pruning: minimal, in early spring, before the start of sap flow.
• Top dressing: liquid organic matter (a solution of cow manure or hornmeal) or mineral fertilizer solutions on pre-moistened soil from early spring to the end of July.
• Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings and layering.
• Pests: aphids, mealybugs, bed bugs, weevils, spider mites, scale insects, rhododendron flies, snails and slugs.
• Diseases: chlorosis, rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot and cancer.

Read more about growing rhododendron below.

Rhododendron flower - description

Garden rhododendron is represented by shrubs with leaves of various sizes and shapes - annual, biennial and perennial, sessile or petiolate, alternate, entire or serrated, ovate or obovate. The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world due to the decorativeness of its foliage, but its main advantage is the magnificent flowers of white, pink, red, purple, lilac, collected in corymbs or brushes, resembling a chic bouquet. Depending on the variety and species, the shape of the flowers can be bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, wheel-shaped or tubular. In some species, the flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The fruit of the rhododendron is a multi-seeded, five-winged box with seeds up to 2 mm in size.

The root system of the rhododendron is compact, superficial, consisting of many fibrous roots, and it is precisely because of its superficial location that the transplantation of rhododendron is easy and does not cause much trouble to either the gardener or the plant. Rhododendron is an excellent early spring honey plant.

Planting a rhododendron

Where and when is the best time to plant a rhododendron

In the conditions of our climate, it makes sense to grow rhododendrons in the garden exclusively winter-hardy. Planting rhododendron in the ground is carried out from April to mid-May, and also from September to November. Actually, if necessary, this can be done at any time during the growing season, with the exception of the time when the rhododendron blooms, and within one to two weeks after flowering. It is better to plant rhododendron in the shade, on the north side of the building, in loose, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus.

If the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, the rhododendron is planted on a raised bed.

The neighbors of the rhododendron can be pine, oak, larch - trees with a deep root system. Tree species such as linden, chestnut, alder, maple, willow, elm or poplar will deprive the rhododendron of the necessary nutrition, since their roots will feed at the same depth as the roots of the rhododendron. If it is not possible to avoid such a neighborhood, you will have to protect the root system of the rhododendron by digging roofing material, slate or polyethylene into the ground. good neighbors for rhododendron are considered garden trees- apples, pears.

How to plant a rhododendron

A carefully mixed mixture of 8 buckets of high-moor peat and 3.5 buckets of loam is poured into a planting pit with a diameter of about 60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm (loam can be replaced with two buckets of clay). The mixture at the bottom of the pit is carefully rammed, and then a hole is dug in it, corresponding to the size of the root ball of the seedling. Before planting, dip the rhododendron seedlings into water and keep them there until no more air bubbles come out. Then place the roots of the seedling in the hole, fill the hole to the top with the substrate, tamping it down so that there are no voids left. The root neck of the rhododendron should eventually be at the level of the surface of the site.

Pour the bush abundantly if you planted the rhododendron in dry ground so that the soil gets wet to a depth of 20 cm, and mulch the near-trunk circle with peat, oak leaves, moss or pine needles with a layer of 5-6 cm. If there are a lot of flower buds on the bush, the best part remove from them in order to direct forces to successful rooting, and not to the flowering of rhododendron. When planting alone in a spacious area, so that the wind does not loosen a newly planted plant, you need to stick a support, tilting it towards the direction of the most frequently blowing winds, and tie a seedling to it. As soon as the bush takes root, the support can be removed.

Rhododendron Care

Caring for a rhododendron includes the usual procedures: watering, spraying, weeding, top dressing, bush formation and pest and disease control, if necessary. It is impossible to loosen the soil around the rhododendron, and even more so to dig it up, because of the roots of the plant located too close to the surface. For the same reasons, weeds must be removed manually, without using a chopper.

Rhododendron needs soil and atmospheric moisture more than other plants, especially during the formation of buds and flowering. Proper watering also affects bookmark flower buds next year. Watering is carried out with soft water - settled or rain. You can soften, and at the same time acidify the water for rhododendron, adding a few handfuls of high-moor peat to it a day before watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the state of the leaves: if they become dull and lose turgor, then they are thirsty. When moistened, the soil should get wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.

However, it is very important, when watering the rhododendron, not to flood the roots, since the plant is sensitive to excess moisture in the roots, but behaves in the same way when waterlogged as it does during drought - it lowers and folds the leaves. So that the rhododendron does not mislead you, in dry and hot weather, try not to increase the amount of water when watering, spray the leaves of the rhododendron with soft water as often as possible.

pruning rhododendron

Pruning of rhododendrons should be minimal, since their bushes themselves form the correct shape. However, sometimes it is necessary to cut bushes that are too tall, remove frozen shoots, or rejuvenate an old rhododendron. How to prune an adult bush? Cut the shoots in early spring, before the start of sap flow. In those places where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm, the sections are treated with garden pitch. A month later, dormant buds awaken on the shoots, and the renewal process begins, which takes place throughout the year.

Very old or heavily frozen bushes are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground: in the first year, one half of the bush, the next year - the second.

Rhododendrons have one feature: in one year they bloom and bear fruit very abundantly, and the next year both flowering and fruiting of the rhododendron are much more modest. To get rid of such periodicity, you need to break out wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering, so that the rhododendron uses strength and nutrition to form flower buds for the next year.

Feeding rhododendron

It is necessary to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted this year, and the first top dressing is made in early spring, and the last - at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid top dressing from semi-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then is used as a fertilizer. Water the rhododendron before fertilizing.

Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disturb the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, nitrate, sulphate or potassium phosphate, calcium sulphate and magnesium sulphate in a very low concentration of 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potash fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added per 1 m².

Pests and diseases of rhododendron

Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all.

Gastropod molluscs are harvested by hand, and as a preventive measure, treatment of rhododendron with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Tiram, is used.

Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in the event of damage to the rhododendron by the weevil, the topsoil will also have to be treated with an insecticide.

The rest of the insects are exterminated with karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the drug.

Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued. fungal diseases- leaf spot, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They arise, as a rule, as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spotting and rust are destroyed by preparations of copper sulfate, in particular Bordeaux liquid.

Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.

Reproduction of rhododendron

Rhododendrons reproduce generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively - by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate rhododendrons is by layering, and we will talk about this method, as well as how to properly sow seeds and carry out cuttings.

Rhododendron seeds are sown in bowls with well-moistened heather or peat soil mixed with sand at a ratio of 3: 1, the seeds are sprinkled with washed sand on top, the bowls are covered with glass and placed in a bright place for germination. Care of crops consists in moistening the substrate as needed, daily ventilation and removal of condensate from the glass. Sprouts usually appear in a month, and when a pair of leaves appears at the seedlings, they are seated more freely according to the 2x3 cm scheme, deepening into the soil along the cotyledon to form the root system of the seedlings.

The first year the seedlings are kept in a cool greenhouse, and the next year they are planted in open ground on training beds with garden soil mixed with sand and peat. Seedlings grow very slowly and bloom only for 6-8 years.

Propagating rhododendron cuttings is not much easier. Semi-lignified shoots are suitable for this, from which cuttings 5-8 cm long are cut. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the lower sections are kept in a solution of a root growth stimulator, for example, in heteroauxin, for 12-16 hours. Then the cuttings are placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1 and covered with a transparent dome. Cuttings take root for a long time and hard: deciduous species for a month and a half, and evergreen species for 3-4.5 months.

The cuttings are grown in boxes with a mixture of peat and pine needles in a ratio of 2: 1, for the winter they are taken out to a cool, bright room, where the temperature is kept within 8-12 ºC, and in the spring they are added dropwise in the garden right in the boxes and grow for another year or two until transplantation to a permanent place.

Dropping layering is the easiest and most natural way to propagate rhododendron. In the spring, a young, flexible shoot from a bush growing at the very bottom is bent down and placed in a pre-made groove at least 15 cm deep, with the middle part of the shoot pinned in the groove, and garden soil mixed with peat is poured on top of it. The tip of the shoot remains on the surface and is tied to a peg inserted vertically.

Throughout the season, the cuttings are moistened along with the bush, and in the fall or next spring, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. It is best to propagate deciduous rhododendron in this way.

Rhododendron after flowering

Rhododendron in autumn

If the autumn turns out to be dry, the rhododendron must be watered abundantly - 10-12 liters for each bush. If autumn, as usual, with rains, then you will not have to water the rhododendrons. By November, each bush is insulated in the root zone, laying a layer of peat around the trunk circle.

Rhododendron in winter

If you live in the middle lane, with the first frosts, the rhododendron bushes need to be covered with burlap, after putting spruce and pine branches between the branches and slightly pulling the bush with twine. Remove the bags on a cloudy day in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. In warmer areas, rhododendrons overwinter without shelter.

Types and varieties of rhododendrons

You can talk about the types of rhododendron endlessly, because there are a lot of them. We will give a description of those that are grown in culture, as well as introduce you to the most popular garden varieties rhododendrons.

Daurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dahuricum)

It grows naturally in Primorsky Krai, Northeast China, Korea, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, preferring coniferous forests and rocks. It is an evergreen medium-sized strongly branched shrub from two to four meters high with a gray bark and branches directed upwards. Its shoots are thin, reddish-brown in color, pubescent towards the ends with a short pile. Small leathery leaves up to three centimeters long on the upper side of the plate are smooth, scaly below - light green in youth, darker in maturity, and either brown or red-green in autumn. Not all leaves fall with the onset of winter, many of them stay on the branches all winter. Abundant flowering of Daurian rhododendron, lasting about three weeks, occurs before the leaves bloom with funnel-shaped large flowers of a purple-pink hue, reaching 4 cm in diameter. Sometimes in the fall, the Daurian rhododendron blooms again.

This species is very winter-hardy, easily propagated by green cuttings. It has two varieties:

• evergreen form with dark green leaves and purple-lilac flowers;
• garden early hybrid, undersized, with abundant, bright, early blooming bluish-red flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. This form is not as winter-hardy as the main species.

Rhododendron Adams (Rhododendron adamsii)

Rhododendron evergreen growing on Far East and in the northeastern foothills of Tibet and choosing mountain forests and rocky slopes for habitat. It is a branched shrub up to half a meter tall with shoots covered with glandular pile. Dense matte green leaves are oblong-elliptical, up to 2 cm long and up to 2 cm wide, glabrous above, red below due to scales. Flowers up to 1.5 cm in diameter different shades Pink colour collected in corymbose inflorescences of 7-15 pieces. This rhododendron is included in the Red Book of Buryatia.

Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

As the name implies, it comes from Japan, from the sunny mountains of the island of Honshu. This species is one of the most beautiful deciduous rhododendrons, which is a branchy shrub up to two meters tall with shoots that are bare or covered with silver bristles. The leaf of Japanese rhododendron is green, oblong-lanceolate, with soft pubescence on both sides of the leaf plate. Leaves turn orange-red in autumn. Fragrant bell-shaped flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, collected 6-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences, are painted in orange and scarlet red. In the middle lane there is no species equal in beauty to the Japanese rhododendron. In addition, the species is winter-hardy, well propagated by cuttings and seeds.

Caucasian rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum)

grows wild in the Caucasus, as its name implies. This is a low evergreen shrub with creeping branches. The leaves of the Caucasian rhododendron are leathery, oval, oblong, dark green, glabrous on the upper side of the plate and felt-red on the lower side, located on long thick petioles. Fragrant funnel-bell-shaped yellowish flowers with green spots inside the throat are collected 8-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences located on hairy peduncles.

The view has several decorative forms:

• pink-white, which blooms earlier than the main species;
• shiny with dark pink flowers;
• golden yellow with yellow flowers, decorated with greenish specks;
• straw-yellow with yellow flowers with reddish spots.

In addition to the described species, rhododendrons of Albrecht, Atlantic, Vazeya, hololithous, tree-like, yellow, hard-haired, western, golden, Indian, Kamchatka, Canadian, Caroline, Carpathian, carpal, sticky, short-fruited, reddening, largest, large-leaved, Ketevbinsky, Lapland are grown in culture , Ledebour, small-leaved, marigold, sea buckthorn, pointed, dense, pontic, attractive, pukkhansky, rusty, equally tall, pink, shichotinsky, plum-leaved, obtuse, rooting, yakushimansky and many others.

Rhododendron hybrid

This is the name of the totality of variety forms and hybrids of rhododendrons grown in culture. In other words, a hybrid rhododendron is a garden rhododendron. The most popular varieties of hybrid rhododendron are:

• German cultivar Alfred, bred by crossing the Everestina variety with the Ketevbinsky rhododendron and which is an evergreen shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, dark green and shiny. bright flowers purple in color with a yellow-green spot up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in dense inflorescences of 15-20 pieces;
• variety Blue Peter obtained by crossing the Pontic rhododendron. The height of the bush is more than one and a half meters. The crown is spreading, up to two meters in diameter. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter of a lavender-blue shade with corrugated edges and with dark spot purple on the top petal;

• jacksons- An English hybrid between the Nobleanum variety and the Caucasian rhododendron. Bush up to two meters high, crown diameter about three meters. There is an undersized form up to 80 cm high. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dull green above and brown below. Collected in inflorescences of 8-12 pieces, the flowers have a pink tint during blooming, and later turn white with yellow spot on one petal;
• Rose Marie- a variety of Czech selection, bred by crossing Pink Pearl and magnificent rhododendron. The height of the bush is 120 cm, the girth of the crown is one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, leathery, the upper side of the leaf plate is light green in color with a waxy coating, the bottom leaves are blue-green, glossy. The flowers, pale pink at the edges, and deep pink with a purple tint towards the middle, are collected in compact spherical inflorescences of 6-14 pieces;
• Nova Zembla- Dutch hybrid between the variety Persone Gloriosum and the Katevbinsky rhododendron. Bush up to 3 m high and loose crown up to 3.5 m in girth. The shoots grow almost vertically, the leaves are large, leathery, shiny. Large flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, red with a black spot, collected 10-12 pieces in dense inflorescences;

• Cunningham- Scottish cultivar, the most popular variety of Caucasian rhododendron, reaching a height of two meters with a crown diameter of one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dark green, up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. White flowers with yellow-brown specks are collected in 10 pieces in dense inflorescences.

Properties of rhododendron

In addition to the indisputable decorative advantages, rhododendron has medicinal properties which are widely used in folk and traditional medicine. Species such as Dahurian, Golden, Adams, Caucasian rhododendron contain andromedotoxin, ericoline, arbutin and rhododendrin. Rhododendron leaves also contain ascorbic acid, the highest concentration of which in the plant is observed in the summer months. Due to the content useful for human body substances rhododendron has antipyretic, analgesic, bactericidal, sedative and diaphoretic effects. It removes excess fluid from the body, relieving shortness of breath, edema, palpitations, lowers arterial and venous pressure and enhances cardiac activity.

However, the rhododendron is far from harmless. During pregnancy and lactation, as well as patients with tissue necrosis and those suffering from serious kidney diseases, you should refrain from taking drugs based on rhododendron. And in any case, before taking such medications, it would be best to first consult with your doctors.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region - features

Sometimes amateur flower growers, fascinated by a beautiful advertising picture, are eager to grow an outlandish bush called rhododendron in their garden. But how often, despite the money, time and effort spent, they are disappointed - the bush on the site does not look at all like in the advertising booklet, moreover, it withers every day and, in the end, dies. Is it possible to avoid such a sad ending and grow a thermophilic rhododendron plant in Moscow, for example? Is it possible to grow rhododendron in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region and other areas of the middle lane? As they say, with the right approach, nothing is impossible.

Planting a rhododendron in the suburbs

Firstly, you need to know exactly which of the types of rhododendron can survive the winter near Moscow, since non-cold-resistant species and varieties die from frost even under cover. It is best to plant, of course, deciduous species of rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Vazeya, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhansky. Of the semi-evergreen species, Ledebour's rhododendron is suitable, and from the evergreen species, you can grow the Katebinsky rhododendron (as well as its hybrids Alfred, Abraham Lincoln, Nova Zembla, Cunningham White), short-fruited, golden, largest rhododendrons and Smirnov's rhododendron and its hybrids Gabriel, Dorothy Swift, Laika. Well-proven bred not so long ago in Finland winter-hardy varieties Elvira, The Hague, Mikkeli. The hybrids of the Northern Light group Rosie Lights, Pink Lights, Spicy Lights and others winter well in the middle lane.

If you have purchased a winter-hardy rhododendron, then you need to be able to plant it correctly. First, you need to do it in the spring, choosing a semi-shady place no closer than a meter from any other plants. Secondly, buy a special soil for rhododendron or make your own mixture of garden soil, needles and peat. In the soil you need to add a complex mineral fertilizer. Thirdly, the pit for a rhododendron seedling should be twice the size of the container with the root system of the seedling, and if the soil in the area is clay, be sure to pour a drainage layer of broken brick 15 cm thick on the bottom of the pit. Fourthly, do not bury the root when planting neck - let it remain at the same level as in the container. After planting, be sure to water the seedling.

Caring for rhododendron in the suburbs

Planting and caring for a rhododendron in the Moscow region is not much different from growing this plant in regions with warmer winters, but there are still differences. We offer you a list of requirements, by fulfilling which, you can count on success, despite the cool climate of your area:

• rhododendrons grow in acidic humus soils. In the zone where the roots take nutrients, there should be no dolomite, ash, lime and other substances that alkalize the soil;
• mulching the near-trunk circles of rhododendron is necessary, especially since it is impossible to loosen and dig the soil around the bushes due to the horizontal location of the root system of the rhododendron;
• in the spring, organize the protection of the rhododendron from the sun's rays with a mesh, gauze or cloth;
• The most important success factor is deep and balanced watering of the rhododendron: it should receive exactly as much moisture as it needs, no more, no less. In dry, hot summers, watering is carried out twice a week.

Sometimes in early autumn, due to warm rainy weather, rhododendrons begin to grow, but young shoots do not have time to mature and die in winter. To avoid unwanted late growth of shoots, spray the bush in dry weather with a one percent solution of potassium sulfate or monophosphate from a fine spray - this measure will stop growth, stimulate woody shoots and lay flower buds for next year. However, after spraying, watering the rhododendron should be stopped, even if the weather is dry.

After this article, they usually read

Rhododendron flowers are considered popular and interesting plants that adorn any garden. They belong to the genus of deciduous or semi-deciduous trees and shrubs. They belong to the Vereskov family. The literal translation of the name of this plant is rosewood, since the inflorescences really resemble unique and attractive roses in appearance.

Rhododendrons

Note! Rhododendron flowers can vary significantly in size and shape, as well as in color, which allows you to choose the best type of plant for each grower.

Description of rhododendron

In nature, rhododendrons grow in Japan and the Himalayas, and are also found in North America and South China. Often grow on the coast of different seas, rivers or oceans.

The features of garden rhododendrons include:

• is a shrub equipped with leaves of different configurations and dimensions, and shrubs can be annuals, biennials or perennials;
• there are sessile or petiolate, as well as serrate or ovate leaves;
• rhododendron is incredibly popular due to the attractive appearance of the leaves, but flowers with a white, pink, purple or red tint are considered the most beautiful;
• flowers are collected in brushes or shields, so they form rather large bouquets that amaze with their decorativeness and sophistication;
• rhododendron flowers may have various form, which completely depends on the variety and type of plant, so they can be funnel-shaped or tubular, bell-shaped or wheel-shaped;
• in many varieties, flowers have a unique pleasant aroma;
• as a fruit, five-leaved boxes, which contain many seeds, act;
• rhododendron seeds do not exceed 2 mm in length;
• the root system of the plant is compact;
• the roots are located on the surface of the earth, so transplanting a rhododendron is a simple and quick job.

Note! This flower is in demand in areas where beekeeping apiaries are arranged, since the rhododendron is an early spring honey plant.

Types and varieties of rhododendron

There is a huge amount various kinds rhododendron, but the most popular are:

• Dahurian rhododendron. Found naturally near coniferous forests or on the rocks. Introduced evergreen shrub, characterized by significant branching and medium height. Its height varies from 2 to 4 m. It has gray bark and long branches pointing upwards. The leaves are small in size, as they usually do not exceed 3 cm in length. Moreover, the plates are smooth on top and scaly on the bottom. Some leaves do stay on the shrub throughout the winter. The flowering of this rhododendron lasts about 3 weeks, and the inflorescences appear before the direct blooming of the leaves. The flowers are funnel-shaped and purple-pink. Their size in diameter reaches 4 cm. Blooming is often repeated in autumn. The species is considered resistant to frost and propagated by cuttings.

Daurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dauricum)

• Japanese rhododendron. This species grows naturally in Japan, and is considered one of the most attractive and interesting. It is represented by a branched shrub, the height of which is within 2 meters. It has bare shoots, and some may have silver bristles. The leaves of this rhododendron are green in color and oblong in shape. They have soft pubescence on both sides. In autumn, they acquire a reddish tint. The flowers are bell-shaped, and their size is about 8 cm in diameter. They are collected in racemose inflorescences of about 8 pieces. They have an orange or red tint.

Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

• Hybrid. This includes many varieties obtained as a result of the combination different types rhododendron. The most popular varieties are: Blue Peter, Alfred and Rose Marie.

Rhododendron Blue Peter (Rhododendron Blue Peter)

Rhododendron Alfred (Rhododendron Alfred)

Rhododendron Rose Marie (Rhododendron Rose Marie)

Thus, before directly acquiring a certain type or variety of rhododendron, one should decide which variety is optimal for growing.

Rhododendron - planting

Russian climatic conditions are considered not very suitable for this plant, therefore only winter-hardy varieties are selected. The procedure for planting a plant is accompanied by certain features:

• it is recommended to plant rhododendrons in the ground between the beginning of April and mid-May, and it is also allowed to carry out the process in the fall, namely in October;
• it is not allowed to plant during the flowering period, so this process is usually carried out 2 weeks after it ends;
• for planting rhododendron, it is desirable to choose shaded areas of the territory, therefore the northern side of the building is considered optimal;
• loose soil with a high acidity index is prepared, and it is desirable to additionally add humus to it;
• the soil must be well-drained;
• if groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then it is recommended to plant rhododendron using a raised bed;
• it is optimal to plant a plant next to oak or larch, as well as other trees whose roots go deep into the ground;
• for planting a rhododendron, an optimal planting pit is created, the diameter of which is approximately 60 cm;
• its depth should be approximately 40 cm;
• a mixture of peat and loam is poured into it, since these components are considered optimal for creating a high-quality planting mixture;
• this mixture is well rammed in a hole, after which a hole is made in it, the dimensions of which are completely equal to the root whoa of the prepared seedling;
• it is recommended to prepare rhododendron seedlings well, for which they are lowered into the water before planting and kept there until air bubbles appear on the surface;
• the roots of the plant descend into the prepared hole, after which the hole is covered with a substrate;
• it is well rammed, since voids are not allowed;
• if the soil was not moistened in advance, after planting the rhododendron is well watered with water, and it is important that the soil is moistened by about 20 cm in depth;
• the trunk circle is mulched with peat, and oak leaves or moss are also used for this;
• if a rhododendron seedling was purchased, equipped with a large number of buds, then some of them are eliminated so that all the forces of the plant are directed to rooting;
• to protect against the wind, it is recommended to use a support, and it leans towards the winds, and it is removed after the rhododendron bush is well rooted.

Note! With the correct planting process, the root neck of the seedling is at ground level.

Rhododendron - care

These plants are considered easy to care for, so light actions are performed for optimal growth:

• it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the soil next to the rhododendron bushes, as the roots located near the surface of the earth can be easily damaged;
• weeds are removed exclusively by hand, so you can not use a chopper or other auxiliary tools;
• rhododendron is considered a specific plant that needs a lot of moisture, not only in the soil, but also in the atmosphere, and this is especially true during the period when buds are formed or the flower begins to bloom;
• it is recommended to water the flowers with exceptionally soft and settled water;
• it is allowed to add a little peat to the water a day before its use;
• the number of waterings of rhododendron is quite easy to determine after examining the condition of the leaves, since if they become dull, then it is necessary to water them;
• it is necessary to water with a significant amount of water in order to shed the soil to a depth of about 30 cm, but it is not allowed to flood the roots heavily, as this can lead to lowering and folding of the leaves;
• it is recommended to additionally spray rhododendron leaves in hot weather;
• pruning of the plant is minimal, since the bushes themselves form an attractive and regular shape, but sometimes it is necessary to cut excessively tall bushes;
• frozen shoots are removed by pruning, and this process must be performed in early spring;
• slices are processed with garden pitch;
• top dressing is certainly introduced for all rhododendrons, and this process must be carried out in early spring and in the middle of summer after the end of flowering;
• it is desirable for this plant to use liquid fertilizers obtained using hornmeal and cow dung;
• water the plant well before using top dressing;
• rhododendrons are grown in acidic soil, so fertilizers suitable for such soil are selected.

Note! A specific feature of rhododendron is that in one year it strikes with abundant and attractive flowering, but the next year, fruiting and flowering worsen, and in order to prevent such consequences, it is recommended to remove wilted inflorescences after flowering, as this will lead to the fact that all the forces of the plant will be directed to the formation of new kidneys.

Thus, there are no particular difficulties with caring for rhododendrons, so if you carefully study all the rules, they will always delight you with abundant and beautiful flowering.

Rhododendron after flowering

In autumn, it is required to water the plants well in dry weather. If the rains are regular, then you can not water the rhododendrons at all. In November, the bushes are insulated next to the roots, for which a fairly dense layer of peat is used.

For optimal wintering, it is recommended to cover the plants with burlap, under which spruce or pine branches are laid. Such a shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts.

Diseases and pests of rhododendrons

Often on the plant there are pests:

• spider mites, bedbugs and weevils, and they should be destroyed with diazinon;
• flies and mealybugs, as well as snails, scale insects and other pests are removed by karbofos.

Fungal diseases in rhododendrons are common, which include cancer, rust, or leaf spot. Usually their appearance is associated with poor aeration of the roots. Used to eliminate diseases blue vitriol or other special preparations.

From chlorosis, rhododendrons turn yellow, therefore, when watering, it is recommended to use water with the addition of iron. Cancer-affected shoots are removed, and the entire plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid for prevention.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region

Many people are interested in the possibility of growing rhododendron in the Moscow region, as this plant is striking in its sophistication and attractiveness, so it can become an ornament to any site.

Note! Many people acquire a plant, plant it in the territory and observe the attenuation of the rhododendron, and this is due to improper care of it.

The main features of growing a flower in the Moscow region include:

• only frost-resistant varieties are selected that can withstand a significant drop in temperature;
• landing is carried out in the spring and in a place where there is partial shade;
• the close proximity of the rhododendron to other flowers is not desirable, so a distance of about 1 m is left between them;
• it is recommended to purchase a special soil designed for rhododendrons;
• a hole for planting is made 2 times larger than the root system of an existing seedling;
• if there is clay soil, then a drainage layer is made at the bottom of the landing pit;
• it is not allowed to significantly deepen the root neck of the rhododendron;
• the seedling is watered after planting;
• balanced, regular and deep watering is certainly carried out;
• if a lot of sunlight gets on the rhododendron, it is recommended to cover it with gauze or mesh;
• circles are mulched next to the plant, but it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the flower.

Thus, the key to effective and optimal growth and development of rhododendron in the Moscow region is its competent planting and proper care.

Properties of rhododendron

Rhododendron has not only an attractive and unique appearance, but also some useful properties. These include:

• ascorbic acid is present in some varieties, and its content is maximum in summer;
• rhododendron is used to reduce pressure, get rid of edema and shortness of breath, and also helps to remove excess fluid from the body;
• can be used as an antipyretic and analgesic;
• used for sedation.

Note! Rhododendron is not a harmless plant, therefore it is forbidden to take it to pregnant and lactating women, as well as people with kidney disease.

Rhododendron flowers - photo

Rhododendron Mother's Day

Thus, rhododendron is a beautiful plant, for the growth and flowering of which it is necessary to provide optimal care. With a competent approach, a truly attractive and bright plant is obtained, which becomes a real decoration of the territory. It can be used to treat various diseases due to its many beneficial properties.