We insulate a cold attic. Stone wool installation technology. Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house: technology Cheap attic insulation in a private house

I decided to dedicate this article to those people who want to insulate the attic of the house on their own without large financial costs. Next, we will get acquainted with heat-insulating materials suitable for these purposes and the nuances of their installation.

Attic insulation

Insulation of the attic in a private house is conditionally divided into:

Floor insulation

Floor insulation can also be divided into several steps:

Stages of thermal insulation of the floor

Preparation of materials

First you need to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material. There are quite a few options. However, our task is to insulate the ceiling with minimal financial costs.

sawdust - thermal conductivity is 0.07 - 0.095 W / mºС. The main advantage of sawdust is that if there are woodworking enterprises nearby, they can be purchased very cheaply or even free of charge.

Wood sawdust is an excellent natural insulation

The only thing to keep in mind is that before using the sawdust, it is necessary to dry it and also treat it with an antiseptic composition. Also, slaked lime mixed with carbide can be used to protect sawdust from biological influences.

If sawdust has traces of fungus damage, they cannot be used for insulation;

Reed insulation mat

reeds are another natural material that can be obtained for free. The thermal conductivity of the reed does not exceed 0.042 W / (m.K). Reeds for thermal insulation are harvested in late autumn with the onset of the first frost, when the stems remain almost completely without foliage. Moreover, only mature plants can be used. Such stems are easily identified by a light yellow tint.

Penoizol is applied in liquid form

penoizol - is a modified foam that is applied to the surface in the form of foam. Within a few days, the foam hardens. Penoizol has a lower thermal conductivity than all the materials described above - 0.028 - 0.040 W / (m * K). In addition, penoizol is not subject to biological influences, does not burn and is not afraid of moisture. The disadvantage of this material is that the insulation of the attic with foam insulation requires certain equipment. Accordingly, it will not be possible to cope with the work on your own. The cost of the material with the work of specialists is 1450-1500 rubles per cubic meter.
True, you can use dry penoizol in bags, but in this case its price will increase to 2000-2300 rubles per cubic meter;

Expanded clay for floor insulation

expanded clay is an environmentally friendly and fireproof natural material that is sold in the form of durable granules. The cost of expanded clay starts on average from 1000 rubles per cubic meter, which allows it to be classified as budget heaters. The disadvantage of expanded clay is a higher thermal conductivity of 0.1 - 0.18 W / (m * K). Therefore, for high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, expanded clay must be poured with a layer of at least 20 cm.

Mineral mats

mineral wool is also an environmentally friendly and fireproof material with low thermal conductivity (0.038 to 0.055 W / m * K). As a rule, mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or rolls. Its main disadvantage is the rather high cost - from 2300-2500 rubles per cube of basalt mats. True, you can use stone wool in rolls, the cost of which starts at 1,500 rubles per cubic meter. But, this material is less environmentally friendly than basalt wool.

Recently, cellulose-based insulation - ecowool - has become widespread. This material is treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant, therefore it is fireproof and not subject to biological influences. The cost of ecowool is 1200-1500 rubles per cubic meter.

Everyone should choose the best way to insulate the attic in a private house, depending on the needs and availability of a particular heat insulator.

Vapor barrier membrane

In addition to thermal insulation, you will need other materials:

vapor barrier membrane;
boards, OSB sheets or other material that can be laid on floor beams;
antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Impregnation for wood

Floor preparation

Start warming attic floor possible only after the following preparatory work has been completed:

if there is flooring on the floor beams, it must be dismantled;
then the wooden beams must be treated with antiseptic impregnation. Instructions for the use of such compounds are available on the packaging;
if there is no roll-up (filing) of the overlap, it must be done. To do this, boards can be nailed to the beams from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.

This completes the preparation.

An example of laying a vapor barrier on beams and reel

Floor insulation

Insulation of the attic floor is carried out as follows:

a vapor barrier membrane must be laid on the logs and the roll. The stripes should overlap each other. For reliability, the joints should be glued with adhesive tape;
Now the insulation is being installed. Mineral mats must be positioned so that they fit snugly against the floor beams and against each other. The same applies to roll material;

Installation example mineral wool

on top of the floor beams and thermal insulation with their own hands, another layer of vapor barrier is laid and glued with adhesive tape;
then boards or other material are laid on the floor beams. If the attic will be used as a living space, you can install logs to level the surface and lay a subfloor on top.

If the house has a concrete floor, to insulate the attic, you need to lay mineral mats or extruded polystyrene foam on the slab, and pour the screed. At the same time, the insulation on both sides must be covered with a waterproofing film, especially if mineral mats are used.

I must say that the ceiling can be insulated not only from the outside, but also from the side of the room. True, in this case, the choice of insulation is limited, since it will not work to use bulk materials.

Ceiling insulation with mineral mats

As an example, consider how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with an isover, i.e. mineral mats:

First of all, you need to dismantle the reel. In this case, it is desirable to lay boards on top of the beams and fix them;
then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the beams and boards. To fix it, you can use a stapler;
now mineral mats should be laid in the space between the beams. To fix them, you can use slats located across the beams. Also, nails are often nailed to the beams, between which threads are pulled;

Fastening the vapor barrier with a stapler

after that, you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier to the beams;
at the end of the work, you need to roll up, after which you can deal with the arrangement of the ceiling.

Roof insulation

In most cases, roof insulation is not required. But, if you are going to use the attic as a living space, then this procedure is indispensable.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house can also be divided into several stages:

Stages of attic insulation

Preparation of materials

Since it is inconvenient to use bulk materials for roof insulation, you can use mineral mats. To save even more, you can make mats from reeds.

In addition to the insulation, you will need the following set of materials:

vapor barrier;
nails and threads;
wooden slats;
antiseptic impregnation.

Treatment of rafters with an antiseptic

Roof preparation

Before proceeding with the insulation of the roof, you need to perform some preparatory work:

first of all, inspect the truss system for its integrity. If any parts are cracked or rotten, they must be replaced or repaired;
if the thickness of the insulation exceeds the thickness of the log, they must be increased. To do this, nail bars or boards of sufficient thickness to them;
then all wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect them from biological influences.

Roof insulation scheme

Roof insulation

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house is carried out as follows:

The vapor barrier membrane must not touch the roof waterproofing. To provide space between these materials, nails must be nailed to the rafters, and threads must be pulled in a zigzag pattern between them;

Fastening the vapor barrier to the rafters

then fix the vapor barrier membrane to the rafters with a stapler or small nails. Let me remind you that the smooth side of the vapor barrier should face the insulation. Glue the joints of the film with adhesive tape;

Warming the space between the rafters with mineral wool

now you need to lay the insulation in the space between the rafters. To ensure that there are no cold bridges in the thermal insulation, place the mats close to the rafters and to each other. If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they need to be filled with scraps of insulation. To fix the thermal insulation between the rafters, you can also nail the carnations and pull the threads between them;
after laying the insulation, you need to fix another layer of vapor barrier on the rafters;

Lathing example

at the end of the work, you need to complete the crate using slats or boards about 2 cm thick, to which finishing materials can be attached.

Warming of gables

Now it remains only to insulate the gables, if, of course, they are available. I must say that it is more expedient to insulate them from the outside in parallel with the insulation of the entire facade. However, if the facade is not insulated, then thermal insulation must be made from the inside.

To do this, we need the same materials as for finishing the roof. The only thing besides them is to prepare bars or boards. Their width should correspond to the width of the insulation.

Insulation work resembles the thermal insulation of ordinary walls:

to provide a ventilation space between the walls and the insulation, it is necessary to fix the slats on the gables in a horizontal position. The vertical step should be about half a meter, and horizontally - a few centimeters.

Scheme of mounting rails on the gables for arranging the ventilation gap

Keep in mind that the slats must form an even vertical plane. Therefore, if the gables are uneven, the rails must be aligned during installation;

further, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rails. During installation, make sure that the film does not sag;
then vertical racks (beams or boards) are installed. To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws and metal corners. Make the distance between the racks a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mats;

An example of laying mineral mats in the space between the uprights

now the space between the racks must be filled with insulation. If the racks are installed correctly, the mats will go in tightly, and their additional fixation will not be required;
then attach a vapor barrier to the racks;

In the photo - an example of an insulated gable crate

at the end of the work, mount the crate.

Now all that's left is finishing. Choice finishing materials depends on the purpose of housing and the attic itself. If, the house is used for permanent residence, and the attic will be heated, you can sheathe it with drywall and use any finishing materials.

Finishing a cold attic should be done with materials that are not afraid of low temperatures. Therefore, from the use of wallpaper and plastic panels better to refuse.

Conclusion

Insulating your own attic, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get to work, the only thing I recommend is also to watch the video in this article. If you don't understand any of the nuances, please contact me with questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you » width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen">

Conclusion

Insulating your own attic, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get to work, the only thing I recommend is also to watch the video in this article. If any nuances are not clear to you, please contact me with questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

pro-upplenie.ru

How to inexpensively insulate an attic in a private house with your own hands

As you know, the space under the roof is designed to protect the house from the cold in winter period and from excess heat in the summer. At the same time, it is through a poorly insulated attic that a house loses much of its heat. The presence of problems is indicated first of all by the rapid melting of snow on the roof.

Sooner or later, any homeowner begins to think about how to properly insulate his attic, and this will significantly reduce heating costs.

Most often, the following materials are used for this purpose:

mineral wool;
expanded clay;
polyurethane.

All these tools are quite effective and at the same time are relatively inexpensive.

It is worth noting, first of all, that do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house can be done in two ways. In many ways, the choice depends on whether the owner intends to use this space in the future to equip the attic or not.

If you have enough money, it is, of course, better to entrust the work to professionals. Now many companies Russian market provides relevant services. But with a shortage of finances, it is not difficult to insulate your house without outside help.

Inexpensive insulation materials

It is important to note that not everything that is used for thermal insulation of a house from the outside is suitable for attic insulation. The important point here is Fire safety.

As practice shows, you can use both modern and old proven methods used by our grandfathers. However, the most popular for such work are only three types of thermal insulation:

mineral wool (both pressed into slabs and rolled);
foamed polyurethane;
bulk (a mixture of clay with sawdust, expanded clay, etc.).

See also: How to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool

The first material is the most versatile and is used both for facades and for insulating floors between floors and attics.

This thermal insulation requires, due to its hygroscopicity, to ensure reliable protection from condensate and from water in general. For this, a hydraulic barrier is used. It is produced in rolls 1.5 meters wide. In fact, this is a special multilayer film with reinforcement that can let moisture through, but prevents moisture from penetrating inside. At the same time, mineral wool should also be protected from steam coming from warm rooms. For this purpose, a vapor barrier is laid under the insulation. The ideal solution there will be a film covered with foil - this will reflect infrared radiation back into the house.

Increasingly, polyurethane foam is now being used. This material has proven to be resistant to both temperature extremes and chemicals. At the same time, it is very light and extremely poorly conducts heat.

The insignificant weight of the insulation is a very important circumstance when insulating the attic, because loads of this kind were not taken into account when building a house. At the same time, the softness of polyurethane allows you to completely cover the insulated surface without the danger of creating in some hard-to-reach places ah so-called "cold bridges".

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the surface using special devices. As a result, a dense monolithic coating is created, which does not allow heat to go outside the house, while protecting the treated structures from dampness. This material is not afraid of any fungus or mold.

Minvata also has a fairly low weight. It is usually made from basalt. There is, however, a cheaper option - made of glass. If you just want to insulate the attic floor in order to minimize heat loss in residential premises, then put cotton wool between the lags, laying the surface, as previously indicated, with a vapor barrier and covering it with waterproofing on top.

In a situation where it is planned to equip an attic room under the roof, thermal insulation is laid between the rafters.

For middle lane In Russia, the minimum thickness of mineral wool should be 20 centimeters; for colder regions, a layer of 25 to 30 is already required. It is extremely important when insulating with this material:

do not leave gaps (cotton wool is cut with a margin, so as to tightly cover the entire space);
do not compress it (it is the air contained in the mineral wool that ensures the preservation of heat).

Those who believe that with a smaller thickness of the carpet in the attic it will simply become colder are mistaken. Everything is much more complicated. A thin layer of insulation will cause the dew point to not be reliably insulated from the cold of the street and the heat of the house. As a result, moisture will begin to condense and drain down. As a result, with high dampness, real rain can begin.

When insulating the roof itself, it is necessary to make sure that all structures are sufficiently reliable, despite the relative lightness, mineral wool is still generally quite a large additional load on the frame.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heater made from clay. It is sold in the form of rounded granules. It is advisable to use it for warming the attic floor. The material is simply scattered between the lags. Due to its shape, it fills the entire space and does not create cold bridges. In doing so, he:

not afraid of moisture;
retains heat well;
environmentally friendly;
not flammable.

At the same time, expanded clay is a very durable material, the price of which is more than acceptable.

It is worth noting that before falling asleep the heat insulator, it is necessary to lay glassine under it or, for example, roofing material. This will protect it from dampness and avoid an increase in thermal conductivity. On top of the expanded clay layer, as a rule, a floor is laid from boards in order to use the attic as storage. If the overlap of the house allows, then it is allowed to arrange a concrete screed from above, the thickness of which should be approximately 5 centimeters.

Sawdust

First of all, it is worth noting that a significant drawback of this material is its high flammability. Probably, it is this circumstance that makes it not very popular. Meanwhile, sawdust quite effectively copes with the task of saving heat and costs practically nothing. In Russia, they have been used for this purpose for a long time. Often, before laying, they were mixed with clay - such a mass, having high plasticity, made it possible to reliably protect all living quarters from the cold. However, after drying, it became very strong.

See also: insulation of the attic door with your own hands

Styrofoam is completely unsuitable for warming the attic space. The thing is that it is not only combustible, but also releases a huge amount of toxic substances that can kill a person in a few minutes.

krovlyamoya.ru

How and with what to insulate the attic in a private house?

For comfortable living in private residential or country house it is very important how warm and cozy it is.

Feeling warm, maintaining an acceptable comfortable temperature with minimal cost heating is an important aspect of living in a house.

Insulating the walls of the house, many neglect the insulation of the attic.

Even if the attic is not residential, it is important to insulate the floor between the attic and the adjacent residential floor during the construction phase in order to reduce heat loss from the living quarters.

But it is possible to make insulation in an already operated building to improve its properties. Today we will talk about how to properly insulate the attic of a private house, about the types of materials and methods of insulation.

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

How to insulate an attic? As a heater, you can use the following heat-insulating materials, which the construction market offers us in a wide range:

- mineral wool;
- polystyrene boards(Styrofoam);
- polyurethane foam (PPU);
- bulk materials (expanded clay, slag, sawdust).

Mineral wool is the most popular material in private housing construction, widely used everywhere. Mineral wool, depending on the material from which it is made, is divided into three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool.

It is used for insulation of interfloor ceilings, enclosing structures and roofs. Mineral wool is a non-combustible material with a low thermal conductivity and high sound insulation properties, resistant to aggressive environments.

Perfect for warming a cold attic, as the load on the ceiling between the attic and the ceiling of the living space is minimized. But it is necessary to work in protective clothing and a mask, as glass wool particles, getting on the skin, cause itching and leave small cuts.

Expanded polystyrene plates are also a traditional insulation. This is the most economical type of insulation, which is produced in the form of foam granule boards. Rigid thermoplastic is 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

Expanded polystyrene boards almost do not absorb moisture, are resistant to fungus and decay; are lightweight and easy to handle and install. The disadvantage is that the foam is flammable, and when burned, it releases toxic substances that are harmful to human health.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) belongs to the group of gas-filled plastics. Rigid polyurethane foam has found wide application in construction as insulation and sound insulation, due to its low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

Polyurethane foam can be produced directly at the construction site, the spraying procedure is quite simple. It is possible to insulate surfaces of complex shape, PPU is ideal for repairing old roofs and ceilings, but requires special equipment and skilled workers.

Most in a simple way insulation of the attic floor of a cold unused attic is insulation with bulk materials, for example, expanded clay.

Expanded clay is poured over a layer of roofing material, the thickness of expanded clay depends on the design of the floor and its thermal insulation properties, but, as a rule, it should be at least 15 cm. from sheets of chipboard and other materials.

We carry out attic insulation with our own hands

If the height of the attic space does not allow, over time, to arrange a residential or auxiliary room there, then it is enough to insulate only the ceiling. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to waterproof it, then lay the selected insulation between the floor beams, on top of which a vapor barrier film is overlapped.

The joints of the film are closed with adhesive tape or special glue. On a reinforced concrete floor for laying mineral wool, it is necessary to make a crate, the step of which is equal to the width of the insulating material (roll or slab), and the thickness of the bars is equal to the thickness of the insulation.

In the attic room, in addition to the floor, it is necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. Work is carried out similarly to floor insulation.

Mineral wool insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier is performed on top, then the crate is stuffed.

Moisture-resistant drywall, fiberboard sheets or lining are attached to the crate. between insulation and fine finish walls remain air layer.

If foam or expanded polystyrene is used for roof insulation, then an air gap is not required.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect all structures. Often, some wooden elements need to be replaced. Next, you need to treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Produce installation work on the device of hidden electrical wiring.

In an unused attic, air vents must be provided for ventilation. Usually they are made on the gables of the roof. IN mansard roof they also arrange vents for free air circulation under the skin - in the ridge and overhangs.

Modern roll materials for insulation are often produced with a foil top layer, which serves as a vapor barrier. The plates are laid with a foil layer inside the room, fastened together with adhesive tape.

Insulation of the attic is not a luxury, but a necessity, as it will later save energy costs and the costs will more than pay off.

The question of how to insulate the attic of a private house, in any case, arises before the diligent owner, whether it is the construction of a new house, or it is decided to minimize heat loss in his old home. Acquaintance with the basic methods for performing these works will serve as confirmation that it is quite feasible to insulate the attic space with your own hands. This will not only save the family budget, but also, if desired, turn the attic from a non-residential warehouse into a habitable room.

A few reasons to insulate the attic of a private house on your own

The attic room serves not only to create a slope from the ridge run in order to drain water from the roof, but this room also performs other important functions, the main of which are:

creation of an air gap between the living space and the roof, which acts as thermal insulation;
natural ventilation.

Warming the attic of your house has great importance and pursues the following goals:

Significant savings in thermal resources and, accordingly, lower heating costs. For example, when heating with gas, fuel consumption can be reduced by 20%.
Prevention of condensation on the ceiling of residential premises due to the temperature difference between cold air in the attic and warm air in the room.
Protection against moisture and decay from the inside of the elements of the truss system.

In addition to these beneficial benefits, keeping the attic warm can greatly increase the functionality of this non-residential space. For example, it is possible to use it as a residential attic.

In the insulated heated attic space, it can be equipped in modern style sitting room, bedroom or office

Materials used for insulation

The roof and walls of the attic of a private house in more prone to freezing, so the insulation of this particular room must be carried out very high quality.

The modern construction market provides the owner of a private house with a sufficient choice of material, depending on the goals that are planned to be achieved by insulation.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool, rolled or sheet, is one of the most popular materials for insulation today. Depending on the production technology and the raw materials used, there are several types of mineral wool.

slag wool

The basis for the production of this insulation is the slag produced from the blast furnace. Slag wool has the following characteristics:

But the use of slag wool for attic insulation is limited by the following disadvantages:

increased residual acidity, which makes it unsuitable for insulating attics with metal structural elements;
ability to absorb moisture;
exposure to temperature effects, which reduces the service life.

The advantages of slag wool include its good soundproofing qualities and affordability. The average cost of the material is from 700 to 950 rubles per m 3.

glass wool

The raw materials for the production of glass wool are sand, soda, limestone and other components. By the method of pulling silicon melts, with the addition of the specified raw materials, a heater is obtained with the following characteristics:

This material has sufficient strength and good soundproofing properties, but it is necessary to work with it, as well as choose the area of application, with some care.

Due to the fragility of the fibers, skin irritations are possible upon contact with glass wool, therefore it is necessary to work in protective equipment

In addition, microparticles of dust generated during operation have Negative influence on the eyes and respiratory organs. In this regard, it is not recommended to insulate an attic or attic with glass wool, planned for use as a living space.

The low density of glass wool limits its use in places where a load on the insulation is possible, including when installing a cement screed.

Otherwise, this material is quite suitable for use and is widely used for warming non-residential premises above the top floor of a house, also because of its relatively low price. The average cost of fiberglass insulation from trusted manufacturers ranges from 850 rubles. per package, the area of which is 7-8 m 2 , with a material thickness of 10 mm.

Basalt (stone) wool

This type of insulation is considered one of the most popular. Basalt wool fibers are less brittle, so working with it does not cause allergic reactions in humans. This insulation is preferable to other materials in terms of ecology and moisture resistance. Other features look like this:

Often the question arises whether it is necessary to perform additional thermal insulation at the interface between the insulation and heating structures in the attic, for example, a chimney. Basalt wool is an absolutely non-combustible material, so there is no need to perform these works.

Due to its good density, basalt wool does not shrink, which allows it to be used on the attic floor under a screed

The cost of this wool is somewhat more expensive than other mineral heaters. On average, for a package of 8 plates measuring 1200 × 600 × 50 mm, you will have to pay 600-650 rubles.

Bulk wool

Relatively new insulation material in the construction market is non-combustible bulk (blowing) cotton wool. The basis of this material is basalt wool, made in the form of hydrophobized fibers.

Bulk wool has all the qualities inherent in basalt, but unlike conventional materials, it can be laid in hard-to-reach places of attic structures

The average price of blown cotton for 1 m 3 is 950-1000 rubles.

Summing up the mineral insulation, it should be noted that the insulation of the attic of a private house of any kind of mineral wool is the cheapest option. Taking into account the cost of materials included in the calculation for creating heat-insulating cake, the final price of mineral wool insulation will be in the range of 200-300 rubles per 1 m 2.

Polyurethane insulation

To insulate areas with complex geometry and hard-to-reach places in the attic, it is recommended to use a sprayed universal polyurethane foam insulation. It is supplied in bottles. Beneficial features this heater:

lack of seams and cold bridges, which reduces additional heat loss;
creating an airtight layer that prevents the formation of mold and fungus;
good adhesion to any building materials;
selection of the required thickness of the insulating layer;
absolute lack of response to temperature changes.

With one balloon within 2 minutes the surface is insulated in two square meters, 3 cm layer

The price of a PPU insulation bottle, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 500 rubles.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Attic insulation with foam boards is a common method. This material is different positive qualities, How:

light weight;
moisture resistance;
good thermal insulation and vapor barrier properties;
impact resistance external environment and long service life;
good soundproofing.

The weak side of the foam can be attributed to its susceptibility to mechanical stress.

In terms of price, expanded polystyrene sheet is a cost-effective material. Using the popular PSB-S brand as an example, the cost of 1 m 3 of foam plastic plates, meter by meter in size, is 1,500 rubles.

Expanded clay

Insulation of the attic with bulk material is a long-tested, and simple, in terms of installation, method. The advantages of this material can also include:

resistance to fire;
good strength and long service life;
excellent sound and heat insulation;
environmental Safety.

Expanded clay balls evenly fill the entire floor of the attic

The cost of a bag of expanded clay averages 1500 rubles per m 3. This is not the cheapest insulation material.

Clay mixtures, moss

The most inexpensive heat insulators, no doubt, are mixtures of clay with sawdust or straw. Often sawdust is an unclaimed production waste, so you can find it for free.

Swamp or forest moss belongs to the same category of free heaters. Despite the fact that the insulation of these materials is considered the "grandfather" method, their thermal protection coefficient is higher than that of many modern heaters, and ecological cleanliness and even benefits, when it comes to clay, are undeniable.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology

Before starting work on the insulation of the attic, regardless of how it is planned to insulate the attic - with mineral wool or other materials, it is necessary to prepare for these works not only the structural elements of the room, but also to arm the right tool and improvised materials. These include:

hammer;
screwdriver;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
construction knife;
long ruler or straight rail;
stapler;
wide spatula;
hydraulic gun;
square;
level;
boards or sheets of plywood for trimming insulation on them.

When insulating the attic of a private house with mineral wool, it is also necessary to prepare personal protective equipment

The attic insulation technology used is selected taking into account the planned purpose of this room - heated housing in the attic or just an insulated attic.

unheated room

In an unheated attic, both the floor itself and the roof are insulated.

Attic floor insulation in a private house

The technology of laying insulation on the attic floor, basically, boils down to the following:

Laying vapor barrier material on the subfloor with an overlap and with an institution on the walls;
Gluing all joints and seams with a special sealing self-adhesive double-sided tape;
Laying the insulation directly, starting from the far edge of the roof slope;
Covering the insulation with a vapor barrier layer, with tape sealing all seams.

In the course of work on trimming the material, it is placed under it wooden plank or plywood.

The work is completed by laying the finishing floor on the insulation

Roof insulation

After the floor is insulated, work is carried out to protect gables and roof slopes from the cold, according to the following technology:

Fastening waterproofing material to the rafters, starting from the ridge part, rolling the rolls across inner surface roofs.
Laying insulation between the rafters, with mandatory fixation.
Shelter with a vapor barrier, starting work from the bottom of the roof, in order to prevent condensate from flowing onto the insulation.
Fixing the film to the rafters with the help of rails.

Upon completion of work, all connecting seams and puncture points are glued with butyl rubber tape.

heated room

Considering the question of how and how to insulate a heated attic, it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that in this case there is no need to insulate the attic floor from the side of the living space, as well as to install a vapor barrier layer on it. Only the roof is to be insulated. The technique of these works looks similar to the insulation of the roof of a cold attic.

As last advice, it should be noted that alone it will be somewhat difficult for the owner of the house to work with certain types of insulation and finish the attic.

It is recommended to carry out attic insulation work in tandem with an assistant.

Warming the attic floor of the house allows you to save more heat inside the room, and not spend it on heating a cold attic. It's good if it's used like utility room(technical attic) or as an attic, and if not? Then it is pointless to spend resources on heating an unheated attic space.

That is why it is worth making the insulation of the cold attic ceiling using heat-insulating materials. You can perform insulation from the side of the attic or from the side of the room (inside / outside). It is best to do this during the construction period of the building, or immediately before the final finishing of the room. But even during the operation of the house there is no reason not to insulate ceiling from the side of the attic.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is standardized using SNiP II-3-79 "Construction Heat Engineering". This manual contains detailed recommendations on the choice and formulas for calculating the resistance to heat transfer of various thermal insulation materials. The calculations take into account not only the type of material, but also the average annual temperature, the duration of the heating season, the wall material of the house.

The attic floor insulation technology depends on the material chosen.

In this article we will consider the most popular heaters.

Mineral wool is a heater, the fibers of which are arranged in a certain way. Namely, this randomness leads to the fact that an air cushion is formed between the fibers, which informs the insulation of its properties. However, the same feature of cotton wool increases the ability to absorb moisture. To avoid this, you need to know how to properly install mineral wool.

Benefits of mineral wool:

high density;
long service life;
Fire safety;
ease of installation;
the use of mineral wool for insulation of horizontal surfaces does not lead to its caking, slipping and, as a result, the formation of cold bridges.

Among the disadvantages: the ability to absorb moisture.

There are three main ways to lay cotton wool: continuous, in grooves or in cells (see photo). The choice of method depends on what load will fall on the floor in the future. The most stable frame is obtained in the latter case.

First stage

It starts with laying the vapor barrier film. The film will allow you to remove the steam that rises from a warm living space to cold attic. To lay the film correctly, you need to carefully read the markings applied to it. Be sure to observe an overlap of 100 mm.

If the insulation is wooden beams, then the film should go around all the protruding elements. Otherwise, the beams may rot.

At the junction of the film and walls or other protruding surfaces, it is necessary to raise it to a height equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 50 mm. and glue it with tape or wrap it on the insulation plate.

Second phase

Insulation (wool) is being laid. This is a fairly simple process. Slabs or strips are easy to cut construction knife according to the required sizes.

When laying the sheet, make sure that there are no gaps left or that the mineral wool material is not strongly squeezed. Both will lead to a decrease in the quality of insulation. Common Mistakes on the picture.

a) insufficient thickness of the heat-insulating material;

b, c, d) the thickness of the attic floor insulation is incorrectly selected.

insulation with foil will increase the resistance of the material to heat loss. The sheet is laid with the foil side down.

the insulation should not protrude beyond the beam. If such a situation exists, the beam needs to be lengthened wooden beam or additional lath up to the thickness of the insulation.

a thin insulation laid in two layers retains more heat than one thick one. In this case, the plates must be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

if there are speakers in the attic structural elements, for example, a chimney pipe, you need to raise the insulation to a height of 400-500 mm. and fix it.

Third stage

Waterproofing is being laid if the attic is not supposed to be used, but rafter system not protected by waterproofing film. If roofing material separated from the attic with a film, then you can proceed with the final stage.

Draft floor. It is laid over the insulation and serves as the basis for the final finish.

The process according to the installation technology is similar to the insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam.

The advantages of these materials:

low cost;
ease of operation;
waterproof.

Among the disadvantages: flammability.

Attic floor insulation technology with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

The process of installing rigid insulation based on is more than simple and can be done by hand. The work can be divided into two stages:

surface leveling. To ensure high-quality insulation, there should be no significant irregularities on the floor of the base. You can eliminate such differences by performing a screed with a sand-cement mortar.

slabs are laid butt-to-butt or between beams. The presence of a bar increases the strength of the floor.

Tip: carefully seal any seams, incl. joints with beams. Bypassing the obstacle, try to cut holes as accurately as possible. A homogeneous thermal insulation layer retains heat better.

Rough coating

Styrofoam must be protected from destruction with a film in a non-residential attic. In a frequently used or residential attic, you need to somehow move, so it is better to equip a subfloor from OSB or a sand-cement screed over polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.

Sawdust is finely chopped wood.

Advantages:

naturalness;
no toxic impurities;
light weight;
material availability.

The disadvantage is flammability.

Attic insulation technology with sawdust

before proceeding with the insulation with sawdust, they need to be prepared. Namely, mix cement and water with sawdust in a ratio of 10:1:1.

Pour the attic floor with the finished mixture and level it. It is worth noting that it is possible to use sawdust as a heater without using a frame only in a non-residential attic. Otherwise, when walking on the floor, the sawdust will be compressed, and concrete screed collapse.

build a cellular structure from a bar. Pour a solution with sawdust into each cell. The advantage of this method is that a subfloor can be laid along the timber. And the attic will be usable

Expanded clay is obtained by firing clay.

Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
naturalness;
environmental friendliness;
ease;
availability.

The disadvantage is associated with the difficulty of lifting expanded clay to the height of the attic.

Expanded clay is usually used if it is necessary to insulate the attic floor over the slabs.

Expanded clay attic insulation technology

The work is carried out in three stages:

the plate is inspected for cracks and cracks. They are sealed with mortar or covered with thick paper. The protruding elements do not create difficulties with backfilling of expanded clay.

mount a crate from a bar. A rough floor will be laid on it in the future.

loose insulation is poured onto the stove and leveled with a conventional rake. Layer thickness 250-300 mm. You can move around expanded clay without restrictions.

Tip: when filling expanded clay, it is better to combine granules different sizes(diameter). This way you can avoid the appearance of voids.

At the end, a subfloor is mounted or poured with a sand-cement screed.

Please note that the insulation of the attic wooden floor has some nuances:

the tree is subject to decay, which means that the steam rising up must pass freely. Improper installation of films or the use of non-breathable materials, such as roofing felt, will lead to the destruction of wood in the future.

using foil insulation, you need to place it with the foil down. So the wood will be protected from water ingress and at the same time, it will not accumulate steam moisture.

"Correct" - use a superdiffusion membrane or vapor barrier film

"Wrong" - to lay a special film without taking into account the marking or in general a regular film

The scheme of insulation of the attic floor for heaters of various types is given below.

Conclusion

In this article, we focused on the main stages and features of warming the attic floors of a private house using heaters various kinds. We hope that this information will be useful to you.

For a comfortable stay in a private residential or country house, it is very important how warm and comfortable it is.

Feeling warm, maintaining an acceptable comfortable temperature with minimal heating costs is an important aspect of living in a house.

Insulating the walls of the house, many neglect the insulation of the attic.

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

How to insulate an attic? As a heater, you can use the following heat-insulating materials, which the construction market offers us in a wide range:

- mineral wool;
- polystyrene foam boards (polystyrene);
- polyurethane foam (PPU);
- bulk materials (expanded clay, slag, sawdust).

Mineral wool - the most popular material in private housing construction, widely used everywhere. Mineral wool, depending on the material from which it is made, is divided into three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool.

Styrofoam boards are also traditional insulation. This is the most economical type of insulation, which is produced in the form of foam granule boards. Rigid thermoplastic is 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) belongs to the group of gas-filled plastics. Rigid polyurethane foam has found wide application in construction as insulation and sound insulation, due to its low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

The simplest way to insulate the attic floor of a cold unused attic is insulation with bulk materials, for example, expanded clay .

We carry out attic insulation with our own hands

In the attic room, in addition to the floor, it is necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. Work is carried out similarly to floor insulation.

Mineral wool insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier is performed on top, then the crate is stuffed.

Moisture-resistant drywall, fiberboard sheets or lining are attached to the crate. An air gap remains between the insulation and the fine finishing of the walls.

If foam or expanded polystyrene is used for roof insulation, then an air gap is not required.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect all structures. Often, some wooden elements need to be replaced. Next, you need to treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Carry out installation work on the installation of hidden electrical wiring.

In an unused attic, air vents must be provided for ventilation. Usually they are made on the gables of the roof. In the mansard roof, ventilation is also arranged for free air circulation under the skin - in the ridge and overhangs.

Insulation of the attic is not a luxury, but a necessity, as it will later save energy costs and the costs will more than pay off.

Useful video

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof reduces heating costs, reduces heating costs and increases living comfort. Thermal insulation is carried out different ways using materials of various composition and form of release. How to choose the best option?

We will talk about which methods are most effective in installing a system that prevents heat leakage through the ceiling. We will tell you what to look for when choosing a heater. In the article we have proposed, you will find valuable recommendations for improving the thermal insulation characteristics of the house.

A cold roof is a budgetary and practical option for organizing the roof of a house for seasonal living. This design significantly saves construction costs, but does not contribute to heat conservation.

It is desirable to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling zone at the stage of building a house. However, insulation is often resorted to in the operated premises.

The warm air of the heated room rises and, in contact with the cold ceiling, quickly cools. Losses of thermal energy through an uninsulated roof and ceiling reach 25-40%

Thermal insulation of the ceiling solves a number of problems:

Reduces the intensity of cooling of heated air, contributing to savings in home heating costs.
Increases sound insulation in a room by dampening the rumble of wind or heavy rain.
In summer, the insulating material helps to keep the room cool without letting in warm air from outside.

Insulation of the ceiling increases the comfort of a private house and optimizes the microclimate of the room. Subject to the installation technology, thermal insulation eliminates the appearance of condensate on structural elements.

Methods of thermal insulation of the floor

Thinking about how to properly under a cold roof, first of all, you need to decide on the method of thermal insulation.

There are two fundamentally different approaches:

insulation from the attic;
installation of thermal insulation material from inside the room.

The first method is more preferable for a number of reasons. So, the installation technology itself is greatly simplified - there is no need to build a suspended frame or fix the insulation with glue to the ceiling.

External insulation eliminates costly repairs inside the room, and also does not reduce the height of the ceilings. The latter is especially true if the distance to the ceiling in the premises does not exceed 2.5 m.

Also, with this approach, the risks of condensation are minimized. What can not be said about the thermal insulation from the inside of the room.

If you choose the wrong insulation and do not exclude the contact of warm air with a cold plate, then water vapor from the room will accumulate - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness, fungus and the gradual destruction of the ceiling.

However, in some situations, the internal insulation of the ceiling is a necessary measure, for example:

lack of access to the attic;
reconstruction of an old building with a ready-made attic floor;
thermal insulation of the garage located in the basement.

If necessary internal insulation installation technology should be followed to prevent condensation inside the building. It is important to comply with two requirements: block the flow of water vapor and use insulation of sufficient thickness.

Overview of the best ceiling insulation

The choice of installation method determines the list options heat insulators. When insulating from the attic, the range of materials is much larger - from natural compositions to technological modern solutions. Installation from inside the room imposes a number of restrictions.

Regardless of the placement method, it must have low thermal conductivity. The coefficient determines the ability of the insulator to transfer energy from heated elements to cold ones. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better material retains heat.

An important selection parameter is moisture resistance. The ability of the material to maintain physical characteristics in a humid environment is especially important when insulating from the side of the attic, when the roofing is worn out enough

Additional requirements include:

durability;
environmental friendliness and safety for humans;
low flammability - it is better to use non-combustible insulators, compositions with minimal smoke formation;
resistance to rodents - relevant for materials placed in the attic.

It is important to take into account the vapor permeability of the insulation. But there are nuances here. When insulating a concrete slab from the attic side, a vapor permeable material must be used. For installation from inside the room, on the contrary, it is a vapor-tight insulation.

View # 1 - mineral wool insulation

The popular heat insulator holds its leading position due to its affordability, ease of installation and good thermal efficiency.

For mounting under cold roof use mineral wool with a synthetic binder, basalt insulation and glass wool. The last option provides the maximum thermal efficiency. The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.044 W / (m ° C).

However, it should be used with caution - the particles cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes. Glass wool is unacceptable for indoor use. Basalt insulation is deprived of these shortcomings. Additional advantages of the material: fire safety and plasticity.

General disadvantages of mineral wool materials:

water absorption;
low strength;
tendency to shrink;
the content of unsafe components - abrasive particles or formaldehyde resins.

To place the layers of mineral wool, it will be necessary to install wooden logs, it is desirable to waterproof the insulation itself from above.

Type #2 - loose cellulose insulator

Bulk material made from paper waste and pulp. To protect against decay and fire, synthetic components are added to ecowool.

The material is used for external insulation - in the attic. Ecowool is sprayed dry over the floor or applied mixed with glue. Requires special equipment to work

The characteristics of cellulose insulation and the technology of its application have endowed modern method thermal insulation a number of advantages:

good thermal efficiency - a thermal conductivity index of about 0.038 W / (m ° C);
the material fills all the voids and crevices, forming a solid canvas - no cold bridges are formed;
due to its light weight, it is possible to lay ecowool of any thickness;
durability of service and preservation of original properties;
environmental friendliness - ecowool does not emit toxic fumes;
low flammability and self-extinguishing ability;
vapor permeability.

Despite the mass of dignity, ecowool has not gained much popularity. The main reasons for low demand: high cost, impossibility of installation by hand.

In addition, ecowool is prone to shrinkage and wrinkling - it is advisable to equip a rigid support from above for moving around the attic.

View # 3 - plate polymer types

This group of heaters includes: foam and (EPS). Their thermal efficiency exceeds indicators of mineral wool heaters. The leader is XPS, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W/m°C.

Expanded polystyrene is superior to polystyrene in terms of strength, rigidity and fire safety. However, in the event of a fire, XPS boards also emit toxic fumes.

Styrofoam is cheaper than polystyrene foam. Among the general advantages are:

water resistance;
low biological activity;
wide choice of geometric dimensions and thicknesses.

Both materials are vapor-tight, so they are used to insulate concrete and brick surfaces.

The material is suitable for . Penofol is placed with the foil side inside the room - the canvas not only retains heat, but also partially reflects it back.

As self material foamed polyethylene is advisable to use in areas with a mild climate. In regions with severe winters, a combination of penofol and penoplex shows a good effect.

View # 4 - bulk heat insulator

Light porous material in the form of rounded granules. Contains burnt clay. The natural origin of the insulation explains its environmental friendliness.

Additional benefits of expanded clay:

fire resistance;
providing a good degree of sound insulation;
durability;
chemical inertness;
not of interest to rodents;
the heater does not give dust.

The thermal efficiency of expanded clay depends on the density of the embankment, the size of the granules.

To ensure the preservation of heat, it will be necessary to use an embankment with a thickness of 20 cm or more, in cold regions the layer is increased to 40-50 cm. This leads to an increase in the cost of the warming procedure and significantly increases the load on the ceiling.

View #5 - liquid polyurethane

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface under pressure, a special technique is used for spraying. Polyurethane foam - perfect solution for attic floors difficult relief and thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.

The main advantages of foam ceiling insulation:

formation of a seamless hermetic coating;
high adhesion with materials - polyurethane foam fills all cracks and voids;
low water absorption;
excellent thermal efficiency due to the porous structure of the hardened foam - thermal conductivity of about 0.027 W / m ° C;
preservation of qualities in wet conditions;
the possibility of multilayer spraying - relevant for cold regions;
providing acoustic insulation;
durability of the coating - service life of about 25 years;
speed of processing;
resistance to microorganisms;
lightness of the material - does not exert pressure on the overlap.

Polyurethane foam is difficult to ignite, the insulation does not spread combustion.

Spray insulation is considered one of the best solutions for attic floor treatment. The limited use of polyurethane foam is explained by the high cost of the method

The total cost includes the price of the insulation itself and the cost of attracting craftsmen with equipment. Foam spraying should not be carried out if the air temperature in the attic is below +10 °C.

View #6 - natural materials

Main advantages folk methods: affordable cost and environmental friendliness. The technique of using and the effectiveness of such natural materials as sawdust and algae is different.

Features of insulation with sawdust

Loose woodworking waste is often mixed with chips and distributed over the ceiling from the attic side.

Warming methods:

Dry backfill. Wooden logs are mounted on the floor, the cells are filled with sawdust. The material shrinks over time and requires periodic updating.
wet method. Combine sawdust, cement and water in a ratio of 10:2:1.5, respectively. Such a thermal layer is more durable.

Weaknesses of sawdust: flammability, fear of rodents and water absorption.

Characteristics and varieties of algae

In coastal areas, algae are widely used, the second name for insulation is damask. The material is natural, good thermal insulation characteristics. Rodents do not start in algae, and the insulation itself is not afraid of moisture and does not rot.

There are three types of stone:

by weight- bales or loose rolls collected from dried pressed seaweed;
mats in nets- canvases 10 cm thick, tied with synthetic thread for ease of installation;
dense plates- up to 85% of algae are present in the composition, the rest is a binding component, for example, silicone.

In terms of thermal efficiency, kamka is significantly inferior to many heaters, the heat capacity coefficient is 0.087 W / (m ° C).

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

The effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on the accuracy of determining the thickness of the insulation, which is part of it. In addition, the indicator allows you to calculate the loads imposed on the ceiling structure. When calculating, compare the values allowable weight and required thermal protection.

The thickness of the insulation is determined by the formula

q = R*k,

q– thickness of heat-insulating material, m;
R– thermal resistance, m 2 °С/W;
k- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation, W / (m ° C).

The R value is determined from tabular data - the indicator is calculated for each region, taking into account the climate.

For example, the normalized thermal resistance of floors for Nizhny Novgorod is 4.26 m2°C/W. If you use penoplex to insulate the ceiling, you will need a layer of thermal insulation 12 cm thick

To calculate, it is enough to multiply the indicators 4.26 and 0.038. The last value is the thermal conductivity coefficient of extruded polystyrene foam. The weighting of the ceiling is calculated based on the volume of insulation and its density. The first indicator is determined by the product of the area and the thickness of the thermal insulation, the second - the tabular value.

The minimum load on the ceiling is provided by polyurethane foam and ecowool, their density is in the range of 25-60 kg / cu. m. One of the heaviest heaters is expanded clay - 180-330 kg / cu. m.

Features of mounting different materials

The tactics of action depends on the chosen material and its location - from inside the room or from the side of the attic.

Mineral wool installation

Installation of insulation is carried out on the attic floor.

When constructing a heat-insulating cake, it is important to withstand two conditions:

to ensure the protection of mineral wool from water vapor coming from inside a warm room;
arrange ventilation of the outer surface to weather moisture from the insulation.

Mineral wool slabs are laid between the beams or planks of the prepared crate. Surface mounting possible.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the boards for rot, treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Make sure the roof is not leaking

The surface is cleaned of debris, if necessary, a wooden frame is constructed.

Further actions:

Install vapor barrier membrane.
Roll out rolls or place mats between beams.
mount wooden base, maintaining the ventilation gap between the insulation and the hard floor.

The last step can be skipped. However, it will not be possible to walk in the attic or store things there, since mineral wool cannot be pressed.

Sheathing from the inside with polystyrene foam

This insulation option is suitable for concrete ceiling. Expanded polystyrene plates are fixed to the surface with glue and fixed with "fungi".

Before installing the insulation, the ceiling is treated with an antifungal compound and a primer.

The procedure for fixing expanded polystyrene plates:

Apply glue to the insulation, attach and press to the ceiling.
Cover the entire area with slabs, leaving no gaps between the elements.
Drill holes for fasteners with a puncher.
Kill mushrooms.
Joints and gaps between the plates should be foamed.
Cut off the remaining foam, fix the reinforcing mesh with adhesive.
Surface primed and plastered.

After the layer has dried, clean the ceiling and apply a finishing decorative coating.

Filling the attic with expanded clay

The minimum layer of bulk insulation is 20 cm. To regulate the height of the backfill, it is necessary to prepare a beacon - make the desired mark on the piece of reinforcement by securing a piece of electrical tape.

If a wooden base is insulated with expanded clay, then the ceiling must first be covered with waterproofing with a call to the walls. Suitable plastic film

On concrete base laying a hydrobarrier is not necessary.

Sequence of work:

Pour expanded clay and evenly distribute the granules.
Check the thickness of the insulation layer. Its height should be 3-4 cm below the level of the flooring. If this norm is neglected, then when walking in the attic, the sound of rubbing the granules will be heard.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane, glue the joints of the sheets with adhesive tape.
Install a rigid base. Suitable boards, fiberboard or OSB panels.

A floor over expanded clay makes it easier to move around the attic and increases the effectiveness of the heat-insulating cake.

Application of sprayed insulation

It will not work to do the work on your own, since spraying will require expensive equipment - an apparatus high pressure. In addition, skills in working with equipment are required to evenly distribute polyurethane foam.

It is better to entrust the work to a specialized company and conclude an agreement with them for the provision of services. At the appointed time, a brigade arrives, stretches a hose with a gun into the house

Mount wooden logs on the floor of the attic. They will be needed for the subsequent fastening of the flooring.
Fill the device with components in the required proportions.
Set the gun to the minimum foam delivery force.
Apply polyurethane foam between the joists in an even layer.
Wait for the composition to dry. If the thickness of one layer is not enough, then the treatment must be repeated.
Level the hardened coating, cutting off the excess to the level of the lag.
Mount a rigid base on the boards.

To insulate a small ceiling with your own hands, you can use a disposable foam spray kit.

The kit includes everything you need: cylinders with components for the preparation of foam insulation, a spray gun, hoses, personal protective equipment

Assembly and preparation takes a couple of minutes, no power supplies are needed - the device works autonomously.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Mineral wool floor insulation technology:

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house with sawdust:

Insulation of the ceiling with a cold roof is one of the conditions for comfortable and economical operation of the house. When arranging a heat-insulating layer, it is important to choose the right material. The method of installation is important, as well as the mandatory formation of a reliable cut-off of condensate.

We insulate a cold attic. Stone wool installation technology. Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house: technology Cheap attic insulation in a private house

Floor insulation

Preparation of materials

Floor preparation

Floor insulation

Roof insulation

Preparation of materials

Roof preparation

Roof insulation

Warming of gables

Conclusion

Conclusion

How to inexpensively insulate an attic in a private house with your own hands

Inexpensive insulation materials

Expanded clay

Sawdust

How and with what to insulate the attic in a private house?

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

We carry out attic insulation with our own hands

A few reasons to insulate the attic of a private house on your own

Materials used for insulation

Mineral wool

slag wool

glass wool

Basalt (stone) wool

Bulk wool

Polyurethane insulation

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Expanded clay

Clay mixtures, moss

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology

unheated room

Attic floor insulation in a private house

Roof insulation

heated room

Benefits of mineral wool:

First stage

Second phase

Third stage

Attic floor insulation technology with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Attic insulation technology with sawdust

Expanded clay attic insulation technology

Please note that the insulation of the attic wooden floor has some nuances:

Conclusion

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

We carry out attic insulation with our own hands

Methods of thermal insulation of the floor

Overview of the best ceiling insulation

View # 1 - mineral wool insulation

Type #2 - loose cellulose insulator

View # 3 - plate polymer types

View # 4 - bulk heat insulator

View #5 - liquid polyurethane

View #6 - natural materials

Features of insulation with sawdust

Characteristics and varieties of algae

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

Features of mounting different materials

Mineral wool installation

Sheathing from the inside with polystyrene foam

Filling the attic with expanded clay

Application of sprayed insulation

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

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