When you come to your favorite site, carefully look after the plants, water, fertilize, and as a result, the harvest turns out to be meager, you involuntarily wonder, what am I doing wrong?

There are some of the most common mistakes gardeners make that need to be corrected immediately.

Water with cold or warm water? Most summer residents like to water the beds in their area with water from a well. And everyone knows that she is just icy. As a result, the root system of the plant rots, which leads to their death. But this is if the weather turned out to be cool (spring-autumn), then young plants should not be watered with cold water.

It is better if the water stands a little outside in a barrel, bucket, and its temperature will be a little higher.

But in the summer, when the soil is very hot, you can water it with cold water. Bye cold water reaches the level of the roots - it will become normal in temperature.

The main and most common reason for a poor harvest is that summer residents vegetable crops are planted on the same bed. That is, if a summer resident planted eggplants in one part of the plot and after that he received a rather large harvest, then he thinks that this place is perfect for eggplants and begins to plant them there all the time.

This is not true at all. After many years of growing eggplants in the same area, they gradually reduce their yield. Because the soil begins to get poorer and various pests and diseases start up in it, which like to feast on the same vegetables that grow from year to year.

Regular crop rotation will help to avoid such problems. One crop can be grown in one area only once every 2-3 years.

To increase productivity, many gardeners apply various organic (and mineral) fertilizers to the soil. But even here there are rules that many summer residents do not take into account or simply do not know.

So, for example, fertilization in early spring is useless, since the roots are still sleeping and various nutrients are absorbed from the soil in small quantities. For fertilization, it is worth waiting until the soil temperature rises to at least 10 ° C.

I would like to say a few words about liquid fertilizers. In no case should they be introduced into dry soil, otherwise you can cause great harm to the roots of plants in the form of a burn.

It should be said that fertilizers can also bring great harm if they are applied to the soil too much. But some summer residents love their garden so much and take care of their plants so much that they don’t notice how they oversaturate the soil with fertilizers. Plants in such cases begin to either fatten and bear fewer fruits, or dry out completely.

In addition, the fruits begin to gradually accumulate nitrates, phosphates and many other chemical elements harmful to humans that are present in fertilizers.

It is better to use natural organic fertilizers(compost, humus, green infusions), which improve the soil microflora and do not upset the balance between plant nutrition and the accumulation of substances in fruits.

Most summer residents for fresh seedlings take the soil from their own site. At the same time, a greater number of seedlings begin to die due to infection with diseases and pests. Therefore, it is worth disinfecting the soil by warming up before planting seedlings or taking fresh ready-made mixtures for seedlings. For example, I steam the earth in the oven and then add a little purchased peat to it to make it loose, moisture-absorbing and breathable.

For the May holidays, gardeners will rush to their dachas. There is a lot to do and I want to do everything at once. AiF.ru turned to an experienced agronomist-breeder Mikhail Vorobyov with a request to talk about the most common mistakes that summer residents make.

Don't overstrain

Even the founder of jogging, American Paul Bragg said: "Do not pounce on jogging in the same way as a bull pounces on closed gates." I would like to advise gardeners and gardeners the same. To do everything at once will not work, believe my many years of experience. The body is not trained after the winter, so various injuries are possible, up to a breakdown of the back. Therefore, if possible, work in the weightlifter's belt. This is a common wide belt that athletes use to keep their health during training. And yet, try not to be constantly in the position of the letter "G" - this is a huge load on the lumbar vertebrae.

Don't pass by

If you have beds that you have not yet sown with anything - do not pass by. Like, I will return to them in a week and plant something here on May 9th. Forget it. Now the soil is heating ahead of time, and, accordingly, there is a fairly strong evaporation of precious snow moisture, which still saturates our soil. Your task is to keep this moisture. To do this, cover the bed with leaves or dry grass. If none of these are available, use an agronomic technique called "closing spring moisture." To do this, you need to level the top layer with a rake and break up the lumps. This will stop the evaporation of moisture from the soil and destroy the weeds for a while. And until you decide what to plant in an empty garden, repeat this procedure.

Don't whitewash the trees

If you did not have time to whiten fruit trees at the end of February - beginning of March, it is not necessary to do this now.

Although hundreds of gardeners stubbornly do this useless work. Wait until late autumn.

Don't burn the grass

Most summer residents want to immediately clean up the area and begin to burn dry grass. It is harmful. Firstly, the top layer of the soil is very hot, respectively, all humic substances (organo-mineral substances responsible for soil fertility) decompose. At the same time, a huge number of insects are killed, the existence of which we do not even suspect. And they are part of the ecosystem, and if we killed them, it means that something (according to the domino effect) can happen. For example, due to the lack of the usual food, birds will fly away.

Secondly, it is a fire hazard! The fire can spread to nearby buildings and forests. Use last year's grass for mulching or as organic fertilizer.

Hold the seedlings

If your seedlings stood on the balcony, she managed to get used to the sun's rays. Such seedlings take root normally. But if she grew up in an apartment on the window, behind curtains and double glazing or in a greenhouse, she needs time to adapt to ultraviolet light.

When you bring such seedlings to the dacha, then the first day you need to keep it in the shade of a fence or at home. Then we gradually increase the sunbathing and transfer the pots under a bush, into an openwork shade, then we plant it and, just in case, having broken branches with leaves, we surround the seedlings with a fence. To keep the shadow for some time. With these simple procedures, you will help the plant adapt and not get burned.

Bought but not forgotten!

Let's say you bought a lot of seedlings with an open root system. The most common mistake is that, having purchased a batch of seedlings, they are loaded into the trunk or tied to the roof of the car and taken directly to the country house in this form. When we reach our destination, we see a catastrophic situation. Instead of healthy seedlings, a person brings brushwood, as the wind has dried the root system to the ground.

It is important for us that the roots are constantly in a humid environment. How to create it? You can take wet sawdust, place them in a plastic bag and lower the root system of the seedling there, tightly tying the bag. In this form, it will last 2-4 days. At worst, wrap the roots with a damp cloth. When you find yourself in the country, place the roots in a bucket or barrel of water at least overnight. Let them feed before planting.

Tulips and seedlings with leaves do not take

Of course, when you see seedlings with leaves, it seems that this is good. The plant is growing. But from the point of view of nursery, seedlings with an open root system, with awakened buds and leaves, are a marriage. Their survival rate is very low. They dry out quickly.

In addition, now “kind” sellers who failed to sell tulips, hyacinths and daffodils in time in the fall are actively selling them. With the wording that if you did not have time to plant them in the fall, now is the time best time. No, not the best! Of course, they will not die, but they definitely will not bloom this year. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them as full-fledged bulbs, they can be regarded as "kids", which cost two to three times cheaper. Keep this in mind if you go to the market.

Everyone makes mistakes, and summer residents are no exception. To grow vegetables and fruits, you need to make a lot of physical effort and time. In addition, this activity is very costly, so it is better to foresee all the nuances and avoid mistakes that can cause poor yields. Starting to engage in dacha farming, it is impossible to learn everything at once. Therefore, you should listen to the advice of professionals, seek useful information and acquire the necessary experience and skills. Here are the most common mistakes beginner gardeners make.

Autumn top dressing

Majority vegetable crops, bearing fruit during the season, along with the harvest, take out many useful substances from the soil, which leads to its depletion. In this regard, top dressing of the soil in the autumn period has a very great importance. It is necessary to help perennials postpone the winter. However, it should be remembered that overfeeding the soil is just as harmful as not feeding it. Therefore, you need to fertilize it wisely. First, you need to consider which plants will be planted on the site next season. And secondly, for each wintering plant, the dose of nutrients must be determined individually.
A favorite country fertilizer is manure, which has a composition that is very useful for plants. However, it should be used with caution. In particular, fresh manure can even be harmful by causing plants to burn. It is much more expedient to apply it rotted. Such fertilizer can be applied at any time, but without much surplus.

Crop rotation

Many summer residents plant vegetables year after year in the same place. As a result, the yield is significantly reduced, or even disappears altogether. Why is this happening? Studies have shown that plants of the same species are capable of accumulating harmful poisons in the ground that inhibit the growth of these same plants. As a result, vegetables begin to hurt, late blight appears, and the soil is gradually depleted. That is why it is so important to observe crop rotation, which means changing the places for planting vegetable crops.
In addition, it will help to achieve good yields and cope with pests. mixed fit cultures that can get along with each other. However, you should be well versed in its subtleties and features.

Incorrect watering of plants

Watering is a very important and crucial moment in caring for cultivated plants. Therefore, it is so important to carry it out correctly and in a timely manner, because in most cases the yield on the site depends on it. Without water, most vegetable crops quickly wither, and sometimes cease to bear fruit altogether. What are the rules for watering? The most common mistake in this regard is watering in hot and sunny weather. This is especially true for cold well water, which can cause real stress in plants. Do not pour water on the green foliage of plants in the heat. The fact is that water droplets on the surface of the leaves are able to concentrate Sun rays, and this is fraught with severe burns for them.

Planting too early

Some summer residents leave their site immediately after harvesting, so they try to shelter some plants from the winter cold in advance. This is a very common mistake that can cause significant damage to trees and shrubs. The fact is that condensation forms under the shelter, which can cause their diseases, as well as a good environment for the life of some insects. That is why you need to cover the plants immediately before the onset of cold weather, and not in advance.

It is advisable to properly monitor your site and avoid such mistakes. After all proper care for cultivated plants, their timely watering and top dressing will help to get a good rich harvest.

The past year has become a final turning point in my views and in relation to the land. As they say, life is just beginning in retirement. I am firmly convinced that organic farming has a great future.

So, where did it all start. Having succumbed to fashionable advertising about drip irrigation, I bought all the necessary elements, installed plastic containers. Covered "drop" 7 acres of the garden in 2015. Planted seeds, seedlings of vegetables, potatoes. Watering was carried out at night, and during the day he conscientiously rushed around the beds with a chopper, removed weeds in the aisles. Seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants were covered with a shady protective net.

Water tanks - tons of plastic tanks with metal frame installed one on top of the other. During the day, the upper container in the sun heated the water, in the evening the water overflowed into the lower one. In a word, watering was carried out only warm water. And early in the morning, water was pumped from a well from a depth of 12 m and watering continued as needed. It is enough just to open the tap on the next drip tape - and that's it: go and lead yourself, fight pests. However, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance.

The harvest seemed to be good. But the tomatoes tasted somewhat sour. They were missing something. No, they didn't get sick. Fruited until frost. But the feeling was that the plants want to say something. And in the evening at the end of July, I began to realize that I had made a lot of mistakes. But the one who does nothing does not make mistakes. In an instant, I saw the light when I saw cracks in the ground in the aisles. The cracks were quite deep - the earth seemed to sob from my agricultural technology.

There is a shortcoming here that the climate began to change around 2002, and the approaches to the land remained old. Although the neighbors envied the drip irrigation, the shady canopy, the crops of vegetables, raspberries and grapes, the feeling that something was done wrong did not leave me. And so, accidentally finding himself at the post office, he took the newspaper Senor Tomato and, in his free time from gardening, read a couple of articles and began to understand that everything was lost. Started to study useful material. I bought 50 varieties of tomatoes, flowers, spicy crops from gardeners with experience, and declared 2016 the year of correcting mistakes.

Working with tomatoes

TO work on the bugs pushed tomatoes. I think that each of us faced with the purchase of seedlings in the market. We have a particularly chic market in Bakhmut. Vegetable growers of dubious appearance sell any varieties and hybrids of vegetables. But most importantly, you don't have to ask. Varieties are available on handwritten plates. And if you ask, they will definitely offer something. They will coo in their own language, incomprehensible to us, and that's it - take it.

Well, I found almost everything. It remains to pick up plum tomatoes. Found them too. Planted in the evening in the cold. According to all the rules: what is under the film in the Snowdrop greenhouse, others - in the greenhouse (indeterminate varieties), and undersized ones - just in the garden.

After the seedlings were accepted, I made a pergola out of wire at a height of about 2 m. It turned out such a nice shady canopy made of green Chinese mesh. In the heat it helps and is very good. No overheating, less moisture evaporates. Yes, and so comfortable to sit and just relax in the shade. The size of the shading grid turned out to be 5 × 12 m.

And then the fruit began to set. Allegedly undersized varieties flooded in height, and where should be the cream

  • grew in size like melons. So that the stems do not lie on the ground, I begin to tie up with twine to the wire. I think they are fattening
  • overfed. No, the fruits are beginning to ripen, the stepchildren drove. I began to remove the stepchildren, put them in the water - a week later the roots appeared. God, I was surprised, but they also multiply. The question arose by itself: why then did you have to buy so many seedlings? The answer is also simple: we do not need 400 pieces and one hundred is enough.

After a heavy rain, there was nothing to do in the garden so as not to compact the soil, I did not go there for several days. He went out and gasped - the grid sagged, because he made spans between the pillars of 5 m to maintain the grid. And the tomatoes became heavy and pulled the net down. I had to urgently put props from poles.

Change in attitude to the earth

Finally, the harvest is harvested and products are processed - Autumn, but climate change continues and presents us with new surprises.

Decided to sit down for books. Although it is a shame - to work all my adult life in the seed production of vegetable and gourd crops and make miscalculations. For 8 years I have been keeping books by Nikolai Kurdyumov. I flipped through them, but there was not enough time to concentrate. And I did read it. Began to compare with the episodes in the work.

And what happens: we, agricultural workers, all the time harmed the earth, brought it to exhaustion, killed soil micro- and macro-inhabitants with chemistry. Plowmen were punished for shallow plowing, but they (the swindlers) had to be given medals for shallow cultivation. Yields were higher in those areas. But what to do - we, Soviet agronomists, were taught that way. And at the same time they forced their subordinates to cut their hair one size fits all. As the French say: the rulers rake in the heat with the wrong hands. More precisely, they drag chestnuts out of the fire.

After he mocked the earth in the manner described above, he decided to make amends and come to grips with soil fertility. The "offensive" began on all fronts. Realizing that the main pest in the garden is man, he determined the main ways of non-interference in the work of nature.

The first commandment: do not dig. On the beds in the winter, everything that was left was pruned with a sharp chopper. Many people use Fokin's vaunted flat cutter, attributing versatility to it. In my opinion, this is advertising. My chopper is made from the famous Druzhba-2 saw, with a long handle and a sharp edge. Without bending into three deaths, it is convenient to work with such a tool and perform no less number of operations than a flat cutter can.

In addition to farming, my hobby is fur farming. One of my hobbies is rabbits. Yes, rabbits are not only valuable fur. These are the manufacturers of Trichodermin's analogue. And Trihodvrmin, many people know, suppresses phytophthora. Confirmed in tests - rabbit manure is very valuable for crop production. The cages for my animals have a manure storage bin, and in the fall I use it as mulch. First, I mulched the garlic with a layer of about 8 cm, then I made the same layer in the greenhouse.

I believe that one of the commandments of the vegetable grower should be the principle of complete rejection of the use of any chemistry in his area and, of course, mineral fertilizers. Usage chemicals kills all living things. And this is not in our interests. We stopped digging the earth because we want to increase the abundance of soil biota and eventually accelerate the rate of organic recycling. The use of mineral fertilizers can affect the acid-base balance of the soil. Over the past years, we have buried enough of everything superfluous in the ground. Now let this treasure go to the archaeologists after us.

Tomatoes prefer slightly neutral soil with a pH of 6.9-7.3. Theorists propose to determine such parameters either by the laboratory method - by taking samples in various places of the garden from a depth of 30 cm, or by using litmus paper. Everything is made much easier. It must be firmly remembered that phacelia as green manure perfectly neutralizes the earth. I think the preliminary preparation of the soil for tomatoes should include such a technique. And organic has never hurt anyone.

Site redevelopment

Due to the fact that my plot has a rectangular shape of 15 × 75 m and is located from northeast to southwest, I have to make beds in the same direction. Width about a meter. Any length. The passages between the beds are also about a meter. Straightness is ensured with twine.

Harvest residues, of course, remain in place. And the more organic, the better. Therefore, immediately after harvesting, spring crops should be sown as green manure. It is very convenient to use barley, oats. With the onset of frost, the plants will droop, remain lying on the ground. Over time, this straw will be processed by soil inhabitants into biohumus.

My shovel is now rusting. It is practically not needed. Only for planting seedlings, loading operations and for making warm beds. Yes, the shovel still has one important purpose - it is an umbrella. It turns out that from a large shovel - a large shadow.

On a wave of inspiration, I decided to make a warm bed. The length turned out to be 5 m, width 1 m, depth - by 2 spade bayonets. The filling was tree trimmings, grapes, hay, straw and paper. A thin layer of soil was poured on top, then 10 cm of rabbit manure and again a small layer of earth from the top layer. So the bed went into the winter.

Near the greenhouse on the western side, the old garden was disappearing. These are apple trees damaged by the bark beetle and densely planted by the previous owners of the site. Therefore, only out of love for tomatoes, the garden had to be cut out. It turned out a good plot of 7 × 15 m. I marked 6 lanes on it and also introduced manure on the surface for future tomato beds. No cultivation has been carried out on this site. There were no weeds here, only a few low stumps remained. Let them remain as places to rest. Then they will rot and I will remove them.

This autumn epic ended - winter began. She, of course, came, as always unexpectedly. Well, do not drive her away now ... Some do not like the cold, unsettled life and other inconveniences. And I like winter: I like skiing, reading footprints in freshly fallen snow, feeding birds, which, as a token of gratitude, will begin to destroy pests in the summer. There used to be a fashionable expression: to look at everything through the prism of party spirit. So, if you look at the snow through the prism of vegetable growing, then this is moisture. And the more moisture falls in winter, the less in summer will have to be watered.

I throw snow into the greenhouse. It doesn't take much work. In the greenhouse, before making snow, he covered the beds with agrofiber. So far, there was little to do in the garden - I ordered tomato seeds, flowers and started a special observation log for experiments. For future tomatoes, I cut pipes, purchased wire and made a sketch of a canopy.

In fact, he imagined how the tapestries would look like. I like tall tomatoes more, that's why everything is so complicated. But this is only at the beginning, experience and skill will come with time. The main thing is to get involved in the fight. I selected varieties of tomatoes according to sonorous names. I think I'll try. And which ones will show themselves better, I will opt for those in the future.

Multipurpose use of rabbit manure

By February 1, the snow on the warm bed simply disappeared, and seedlings of barley and wheat appeared throughout the area. During the day it was warm, at night the frost reached 8'C. But the greens were growing. The thing is that the rabbits are naughty and some of the food is lost.

Since you can’t feed with crushed grains, I feed only with whole mixtures. And here you are - another benefit of manure. The green went into action. He began to feed the female rabbits with the kids with greenery. Just great - where to find vitamins in winter. And here it turns out, as in Greece - everything is there.

I used this gift of nature until mid-May. Grass began to grow everywhere and the oasis had to be liquidated. Instead of cereals, they planted shallots under the newspaper. Newspapers were slightly crushed by the ground so that the wind would not pick up. Watering, of course, was carried out, but infrequently. Onions quickly caught up with the development of plantings carried out a month earlier. I was afraid in vain - warm beds really work. Conclusion: you need to make such beds several pieces every year. Yes, there is nothing to work.

And if you complicate it a little - make a polycarbonate sarcophagus? Then, I think, you can plant potatoes in early December early varieties(for example, Riviera) and by the beginning of April have young tubers on your table.

April last year was unusually rainy. A lot of earthworms popped up on the asphalt. Early in the morning, before the movement began, I began to collect them daily and drag them to my plantations. Both in the greenhouse and in the garden. Well, probably brought 2 thousand. Jokingly, he enrolled everyone in the staff, called them employees and promised that now I will give everyone good water and food. And they are contracted to loosen the earth and produce vermicompost.

I’ll also add why rabbit manure is so necessary on the site. The fact that it contains up to 25 elements useful to plants is understandable. Its main value is that it is suitable for eating any kind of worms without prior preparation. It is enough to moisten - and that's it: the food is ready. But only drives, mesh floors in cages should be present - this necessary condition to separate the liquid fraction. I think I'm making it clear? Well, if there is food, moisture, temperature regime and air exchange in the soil - everything grows by leaps and bounds.

10 mistakes when buying seeds

The February warming also affected the greenhouse - the snow began to melt quickly in it too. seedlings of tomatoes in open ground in our area we usually plant in the middle of May. Seedlings are about 60 days old. So, the seeds are sown on April 15th. By the way, about the seeds. When buying them, most make a lot of mistakes. I am a pro in this business: I know how to choose a product on the market. Therefore, I want to warn readers and arm them before going to seed stores. In short, buyers make 10 common mistakes when choosing seeds.

Mistake #1. Any seed store is a library of brightly colored bags. The names are simply mesmerizing, and beautiful pictures make you forget the basic rules for buying seeds. Here we show inattention to quality. When choosing seeds, we often forget that there are many ways to cheat in the seed market. As well as the dominance of low-quality products, expired seeds, regrading. Do not buy seeds from unknown manufacturers. Choose a company that values ​​its reputation. Don't buy from market hawkers and random sellers (with rare exceptions, they take cheap imitations to sell them at exorbitant prices!). When buying in online stores, also remember the pitfalls of such purchases. In fact, this is the same private store where it is even easier to deceive you. After all, you do not even see the seller.

Mistake #2. Do not think that if you have a beautiful and attractive package in front of you, then the seeds in it are just as good. Often you pay for the packaging and its design, not for the content.

Mistake #3. Picture selection. Carefully read the characteristics: the number of seeds, the duration of the growing season, the timing of flowering, fruiting.

Mistake #4: Buying hybrid seeds to get your own. In the first generation, all hybrids are the same. In the second, there is splitting according to the 1:3 scheme.

Mistake No. 5. Refusing to use pelleted seeds if you do not do it yourself.

Mistake No. 6. Underestimation of the zoning of the variety and excessive craving for the exotic. “Straight-seeds are often more expensive, more capricious in cultivation, and require additional care.

Mistake #7. New doesn't mean better. 70% of all seed should be occupied by already tested varieties, the quality of which you have no doubt.

Mistake #8. Purchase of seeds in reserve. At home, it is impossible to create ideal conditions for storage.

Mistake #9. Spontaneous purchase of seeds. Resist the instant temptation to get inspired by the description.

Mistake #10. Unjustified savings. Don't be fooled by the cheapness. They are either out of grade or defective (low germination and germination energy).

Preparing seeds for sowing

Everything described is purely from my personal experience.

First, we seed the seeds for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 1 liter of water) or proportionally, depending on the volume. Time is limited, since the atomic oxygen released in the solution will begin to combine into molecules and, in fact, the solution will lose its activity.

We wash it in clean water and put it in an ash solution for a day (1 tablespoon of ash per 1 liter of water). Here we add a teaspoon of aloe juice, a tablespoon of pomegranate peel tincture. Now we wring out the cotton cloth from the solution and place it in a plastic box. Spread the seeds, cover with a damp cloth, close tightly with a lid and put in a warm place.

This is where the seeds will germinate. The temperature is maintained within 20-25'C. As soon as the seeds hatch, I put them overnight in the refrigerator on the top shelf. Temperature + GS. Take it out of the fridge for a day and put it back in the heat. I repeat the procedure 5 times.

This shock therapy is very effective. It provides friendly seedlings and contributes to no less friendly fruiting. I recommend this type of hardening to owners of unheated greenhouses.

There is another method that reduces the ripening period by a week. The beginning of seed preparation is the same. Add a tablespoon of garden soil, a teaspoon of an EM preparation or a teaspoon of Bionur, a little old jam to the solution with seeds and connect an ordinary aquarium compressor. And already in a day we get sprouts from the seeds. Now it's time to put the seeds in their place. If for someone seedlings are one of the elements of income in the market, plant them thicker, dive. To each his own.

I try to get first-class planting material without unnecessary physical costs. I rarely sow - after 5 cm to a depth of 1 cm. I place one variety on one lane. The bed has a width of 1 m, which is very convenient. Between rows 5 cm. For 20 plants this place is enough, the seedlings develop perfectly. I cut a groove along the aisles. I water this groove as needed. Several times I spray with Bionur - first the soil, then the plants. Seedlings grow strong and resistant to lodging. All indeterminate varieties at the time of planting have a height of up to 50 cm.

Maltsev method

Preparing seedlings for further cultivation according to the Maltsev method.

So - the essence of the method. We lay the seedlings (and we have them very long in advance) with their roots to the south in a prepared furrow 10 cm deep, remove the extra leaves. We leave only one or two pairs near the top. We spill the furrow, and cover the stem with dry soil. We fix the upper part of the tomato about 10 cm with an earthen mound in a vertical position.

We will make a garter after the plant grows. The distance between tall tomatoes is kept at 1 m.

Because on the horizontally laid underground part, the root system quickly begins to develop, and the main roots rush down in a powerful bunch. I remember that I had to somehow eliminate the diseased tomato, but the root system is something unusual. There is a huge beard on the horizontal section, and the main roots have gone to a depth of over 60 cm.

With the development of the seedling (now the tomato can be called that), stepchildren begin to develop in the lower part of the stem. Our task is to grow two to a length of 50 cm. After that, we lay them to the right and left of the mother plant. Approximately 30-35 cm.

Now we have 3 powerful roots per stem. And we have two ways: either we cut off two stems from stepchildren (although they are not so stepchildren) and get an even more powerful root system for one stem, or leave three in one. That is: three stems, three powerful roots and one seedling (by number) instead of three. It is not bad to throw a pair of worms into each groove when landing. I am silent about mulching - we have it. We only monitor the replenishment of the mulch and periodically add it as it settles.

The start of planting seedlings last year was May 13th. In exactly one month, the stems reached a height of 70 cm.

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