Bath from a metal frame. Frame bath from foundation to finish - we build with our own hands. Which foundation to choose

Such projects have many advantages, including the possibility of construction without the involvement of craftsmen, exclusively with my own hands. The article contains a description of the process, as well as photos and videos that will help you deal with the construction of a building, from the foundation to the roof.

A frame bath is preferred by people who want to get a quick result at a relatively low price. You can do work at any time of the year, as soon as you want to get your own steam room, and the lack of shrinkage characteristic of a wooden structure makes it possible not to postpone finishing. You need to start by choosing a project - you can draw it up according to an individual sketch or purchase a ready-made one. At this stage, you need to consider:

number of floors;
the presence of additional buildings - attic, terraces, etc .;
the location of the rooms - including the steam room: it can be separate or built-in;

Frame bath with veranda

the location of the heater in order to properly design ventilation and chimney;
the configuration of the roof and the type of coverage for it - this will allow you to calculate the required power of the truss system and ceilings;
communication scheme;
materials that you plan to use for the construction of the bath, including for the final finish;
construction site - including whether the structure will be a separate building or an extension of the house.

Advice. When planning to build a bath, be sure to consider the features of the soil in your area. The choice of the type of foundation depends on this. For walls, prepare boards from aspen, linden or larch - these rocks are almost not deformed and retain heat well.

To use the frame bath in the cold season, it must be insulated. This question should be asked in advance in order to choose suitable material and include it in the cost of the project. Mineral wool and fiberglass are considered optimal.

One of the most significant disadvantages of the frame structure is its susceptibility to the influence of weather conditions. During precipitation, moisture gets into the cracks of the building, which collects from the inside and gradually destroys the building, so before building a bath, you should also think about vapor barrier. Usually, a special foil film or glassine is laid between the inner lining and the insulation.

Attention! It is undesirable to use ruberoid for this purpose. When heated, it becomes a source of a specific and very unpleasant odor.

Laying the foundation: foundation, bottom railing and floors

Most often, for a frame structure that is light in weight, a columnar foundation is prepared. With your own hands, you can make one of the simple options - the base of asbestos-cement pipes into which concrete mortar is poured. To do this job you will need:

Pile foundation for a bath

Drill wells with a depth of about 1.5 m and a diameter of 0.2 m.
Insert pipes with a diameter of 0.1 m into them. empty seats fill it with sand and compact it well.
Determine horizontality over the entire surface using a level. Make appropriate marks on each pipe.
Prepare a solution of water, sand, fine gravel and cement.
Cut the pipes to the desired mark and pour thoroughly mixed concrete into each of them.

Advice. If you have never made a columnar foundation, but have dealt with a tape one, feel free to use the option you are familiar with. It also holds up well to the frame structure.

The strength and durability of the bath will ensure the correct strapping at the top and bottom. To make the bottom, you need to lay a layer of boards or timber on the foundation and firmly fix it. This will become the basis for the floor and walls. It is necessary to proceed with the installation of the strapping after the foundation is completely ready. For work, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 5x10 cm. They are pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Waterproofing of the structure with roofing material.
Wall marking and laying out along the outer contours of the boards (outer side). You need to connect them to each other with nails.
Connection by means of basement piping supports. Horizontal laying control.
Insert log for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
Treatment of the entire structure with a composition that prevents wood decay.

Advice. The strapping and logs can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-walled metal plates. This will give additional strength to the future bath. You can put under the lags expanded clay blocks to reinforce the entire structure.

At this stage, it is advisable to start laying the floor. It can be wooden or concrete, leaking or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the sauna only in the summer or all year round. In the first case, you can get by with a simple wooden deck laid at intervals through which water escapes - this is the leaking structure. If you want to make a solid warm floor, then you must first equip the draft layer: stuff plywood on the logs, put an insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, fine floor covering, and fix it with nails.

Advice. Boards for floor covering must be processed in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause discomfort for vacationers in the bath.

Wall building rules. Top framing and roofing

Before assembling the base of the bath - the frame - 2 conditions must be met:

dry the material well;
make markings for future frame racks.

After that, you can proceed with the installation:

The construction of the walls of the bath

Install 2 corner and several intermediate racks. The distance between them directly depends on the dimensions of windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if docking with other walls and arrangement of the opening is planned; 60 cm - if adhesion to other walls is not provided.
Check if the structure is in the shape of a rectangle.
Sheathe the frame with particle boards (from the selected corner). Attach with screws.
Put a few more racks and sheathe them in the same way.
Make the top harness and attach it to the uprights.

Then you can proceed to the installation of the roof. Prepare bars 150x150 mm - these will be ceiling beams. Place them on the top trim, observing a distance of 0.5x0.6 m. Mount a temporary boardwalk 5 cm thick on top. Collect the rafters on the ground and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof ridge is small, then installation can be done directly at the top.

Advice. Before installing the latest roof structure, mark the chipboards on it with which the pediment will be sheathed.

Depending on what material you are going to use as roofing, you need to decide on appearance battens installed on the rafters:

for iron or soft roof(for example, roofing felt) you need to make a continuous surface;
for metal tiles, gaps with a distance of 35 cm are permissible;
for slate or ondulin, you can take steps of 60 cm;
when using natural tiles, you must first consider its size.

Assembling the walls of the bath

After installing the crate, you need to lay the coating, and then install the windows and doors.

Outside, the bath can be plastered, sheathed with boards or siding, inside - make an imitation of natural wood. It is better to lay out the wall that separates the steam room from the rest room with bricks - in order to fire safety. Paint and varnish internal surfaces not worth it: due to the high temperature, they will begin to release toxins. Engage in construction thoroughly - and the bath will serve you for many years.

There are endless articles on the Internet about how to build a frame bath with your own hands. However, often the text you read at least gave you only a little of the necessary knowledge, and even worse, it turned out to be completely useless for you. In this article, we will try to convey to you only the information you need, which would be correct not only in theory, but also suitable in practice. So, where does the construction of a frame bath begin?

What do we know about frame structures

Frame housing construction has long found its place in the sun in countries Western Europe, USA, Australia and Canada. There are quarters where the presence of buildings of this type reaches 95% of the total number of buildings built. Slowly, they began to adopt experience in Russia, where, as statistics show, it turned out to be very successful.

Using technology frame structure, people in our latitudes build not only houses, but also other outbuildings such as: a bathhouse, a garage, a workshop, and so on.

Advantages of a frame bath

It is quite possible to build a turnkey frame bath in one month;
The finished structure is lightweight, so there is no need to build a powerful foundation;
Unlike a log, the walls of a frame-type bath do not shrink, which allows the installation of windows and doors immediately after the walls are erected;
For work, a whole team of professional carpenters is unnecessary, one assistant is quite enough;
Estimated cost spent on construction in 2 times lower than a similar structure erected from a log and 3 times below the bath from a bar;
Ease of installation of electrical, sewer and plumbing systems. Without problems, everything can be hidden between the inner and outer walls;
Infinite set various kinds finishes, both inside and out.

Disadvantages of a frame bath, owner reviews

Very often in various construction forums you can find reviews from users of such baths. In addition to positive reviews, people also sometimes leave negative comments. However, most often, it turns out to be only mistakes that were initially made in the design and construction of the bath, and not the weaknesses of the structure.

For example, people complain that the bathhouse began to get dark and after 2 years after commissioning, a fungus appeared on the walls. Such moments take place, but this is only a consequence of poor insulation of the structure, no more.

The fact is that with a sharp cooling, condensation forms on the walls, and this is the main reason for the appearance of the fungus. To avoid this, it is enough to use a high-quality insulation.

There are also comments about shrinkage. Users write that after some time there was a slight shrinkage of the structure on 3-5 cm. This can happen, but only if raw wood was used in the construction, which should not happen according to technology.

For construction, only dry and preservative-treated wood should be used.

Frame bath projects

There are two most popular sizes that are most often used in the construction of frame-type baths - 4x4 m. And 6x6 m. Dimensions depend primarily on the need. For a family of 3-4 people, a smaller sauna will be enough.

In the event that you have a large family, and you are also a big fan of taking a steam bath, inviting a couple of friends to visit you, then it’s better not to save money and build a bigger bathhouse, especially since the difference in cost is not so significant.

Despite the fact that the construction of a frame bath is not a construction site of the century and it is quite possible to build it without a detailed project, it is still desirable to have schematic dimensions and an approximate layout of the premises inside. Here are two examples finished projects which you can use.

Frame bath 4x4

More often, a bath of these sizes consists of only three rooms: a steam room, a sink and a rest room. Despite the small area of each room, there is enough space inside for a comfortable stay in the bath for 3-4 people at the same time.

Bath project 4x4

If necessary, you can increase the floor area due to the open terrace. To do this, another pair is added to the roof rafter legs, which are based on two beams of the upper trim, reinforced with vertical pillars.

To avoid getting cold into the rest room, you can install a partition in it. Thus, another room will turn out - a veranda. It is usually used to store outerwear and shoes.

Frame bath 6x6

If the size of the plot and the availability of extra funds allow you to build a frame bath with dimensions 6x6 m., then do not hesitate, build unambiguously. There will no doubt be enough space in such a bath for everyone, especially since most often baths of this size imply the presence attic floor in which the bedroom is located.

Baths with such dimensions have several advantages. Firstly, on the first floor it is possible to place a full-fledged corridor and a bathroom. Well, the attic can be turned into a living room combined with a rest room, where you can perfectly place, for example, a billiard table.

DIY frame bath

If you have at least some experience in the construction of frame technology, you can make your own changes to the standard project. Design feature this type of buildings allows you to do this at any stage of construction.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation begins with the choice of a place for the building and the preparation of the site. Schematic marking of the foundation is made using a rope and pegs.

Since the structure is light in weight, it is possible to save money on the construction of a full-fledged foundation. It will be quite enough, a well-established foundation.

From a bar 150x150 mm. a lower harness is made, on which the supporting pillars and racks of the frame will rest. The method used to join corners is "in the paw", with reliable fixation between nails.

frame

The frame of the bath is made of dry, specially processed edged boards. The size of the board must be selected based on the calculation of the bearing capacity of your bath and the insulation that you plan to use. Usually a bar is used under the corner posts 100x100 mm., and for racks a board 40x80 mm. Pillars and racks are reinforced with corner braces, so the structure becomes rigid.

It is recommended to do the installation step of the racks 600 mm. It is this width that most standard heaters have, so it does not have to be adjusted to a different size, and its tight fit will eliminate the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. This step will subsequently be applied to floor logs and rafter legs.

The places where window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with a board of the same section as the rack itself. Simultaneously with the installation of supports and racks, a log for the floor is installed. For these purposes, a cutting board is used. 100x50 mm., fastening takes place on special metal shoes. Mounting step is the same 600 mm. By analogy with the bottom, the upper harness is made, using the same method of fastening “in the paw”.

Roof

For frame baths due to their small size it would be advisable to use either a four-slope. The roof frame is being made using an edged board with a section 150x50 mm., installation step of the rafter legs 600 mm.

For greater convenience, roof trusses can be assembled on the ground. To do this, you need to make a template, which is done as follows.

The ends of the two boards are connected at the edges with an ordinary nail. The second ends are installed in the marked place of the upper trim, where the place of the undercut for the supporting part is marked on them with a pencil. The structure in this position is fastened with a temporary transverse board.

Having lowered the layout down, mark the place of the upper connection with a pencil with a straight vertical line, so we get required angle. Having removed the nail, we washed down according to the markings outlined above and below, then we splice the ridge part with metal plates on both sides. We replace the temporary jumper with a permanent one (crossbar). Check the resulting template again, if everything has become exactly according to it, we make the rest of the trusses.

Fastening rafters with metal plates

Important! The attachment points of the rafter legs must coincide with the vertical posts. So you will significantly reduce the load on the structure.

The lower part of the rafter legs is attached with a metal corner and nails. Both roof slopes must be level. After installing all the rafters, we proceed to the installation of the roofing pie under the roof of your choice.

wall cladding

External wall cladding is usually done wooden clapboard. You can paint it in any color you like, but true connoisseurs leave the natural color of wood, emphasizing its structure with only a layer of transparent varnish. Before nailing the sheathing, do not forget to sheathe the frame with a waterproofing film.

Modern market building materials allows you to choose another option for wall cladding. For example, it is not uncommon to find frame baths sheathed with siding or a block house.

Warming of the frame bath

The comfort and service life of your bath in the future will depend on how seriously you take this stage of construction.

It is impossible to save on materials for thermal insulation of a frame bath. best material mineral wool is still used for insulation. It is an environmentally friendly product that does not lend itself to mold or burning. In addition, this material "breathes", which is its main advantage over other types of insulation.

The material on both sides must fit snugly against the walls of the side posts. All the work is quite simple, so no special recommendations are needed here. After all the walls are insulated, they are covered from above with a vapor barrier film made of aluminum foil.

For interior lining, lining made of pine or linden is well suited. In the steam room, it is better to use cedar lining, the unique aroma of the essential oils having healing properties make it irreplaceable for this room.

Interior decoration of the bath with pine clapboard

As you yourself could see for yourself, the construction of a bath using frame technology is a simple matter, or rather, very simple. It is very difficult to make serious mistakes during its construction, so even a novice carpenter can cope with this work.

Before starting construction, make sure that you have at least the simplest project on hand with a minimum set of drawing dimensions.

What could be more pleasant than after the work done at the summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your body and soul? Of course, a chic bathhouse with a pool in the country is a luxury that is unaffordable for many, so you should take a closer look at the projects of small structures and build what you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of funds and getting the maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bathhouse can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam / gas / cinder blocks, bricks, or a log house made of logs or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Brand/Model/Type/Grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
M150	25012065	RUB 16.90 per piece (pallet 240 pieces)
First grade	1001006000	The price for 1 m3 is from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
First grade	1501506000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
First grade	401006000	7500 rub. per 1 m3
2.3 grade	401506000	5500 rub. per 1 m3
-	912502500	548
-	1212502500	802
-	6025050	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

After reviewing the prices for materials, you can see that it is more profitable to build a bath from blocks or using Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used or low-grade (for example, instead of edged boards, you can use unedged ones, adding color country bath). More accurate data on the consumption of materials can be obtained after the preparation of the project and estimates.

It is extremely important to think over the design of the bath before starting construction, calculate the amount of materials, note all sizes and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Device shelf in the steam room Bath size selection

The main room in any, even the smallest bath is a steam room. There are necessarily shelves in two or three floors and a heater. Even country cottage area small, and it is planned to install a very modest bathhouse, the steam room cannot be made with an area of 3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (it should be convenient for visitors to bathe with brooms, sit and lie on the shelves in full growth). Such norms are due to safety considerations (in a very close steam room it is easy to get burned on a red-hot stove or scald the skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is completely located in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of the room by another 1-2 meters so that it is convenient to store and throw firewood into the firebox. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m is necessarily laid, which is also noted on the plan of the future bath.

The bath will certainly provide water procedures, respectively, you should think about a small shower located in private room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and the washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room in the bath is the dressing room or dressing room. There should fit benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, perhaps a small table. It is also possible and preferable that the heater is located in the steam room, and the loading door goes into the dressing room, which saves on heating.

In the economy bath, you can do without:

plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets by hand;
separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outside or in country house if the bath in the country will be used only in the warm season.

But you can’t do without electricity and sewage, so it’s advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage pit, as well as stretch a power line to the construction site of the bath, because bathing by candlelight is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan:

dimensions of the building and each room separately;
ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
the location of the furnace;
the sides to which the doors will open, including the furnace;
the location of the windows (in the steam room, the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
the location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (products with a moisture protection level above IP54 are used only).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bath

Video - Bath project. Drafting

Construction of a small frame economy bath in the country

Let's start with the base of the bath - the foundation. Since the bath will be small and relatively light, it will not be necessary to fill monolithic slab or make a recessed reinforced tape. For a one-story bath, a columnar foundation of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Markup

This stage is mandatory for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bath will stand.

We take 4 pegs and a plumb line. Strictly vertically we drive the first stake into the soil, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we postpone the length of one of the walls, we hammer in the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

Similarly, we put the third stake and the fourth. We check the equality of the marking diagonals, if necessary, we correct the stakes and the cord.

We also mark with a cord the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the cast-off. Align the bottom of the resulting base horizontally, ram it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles apiece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is about half a meter. Holes should be located at the corners of the house, under bearing walls and interior partitions.

We ram the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand, crushed stone (each layer is up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Crushed stone is poured with liquid cement milk. We stick one steel bar strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the bar, 2 pcs. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the ground. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, compensate for irregularities with a layer cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame, you can use a beam of 100 * 100 cm or 150 * 150 cm. You should not save on load-bearing elements. It is also desirable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 bars.

Connecting corners using the “paw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the bottom rails

We cut the threads on the reinforcing bars sticking out of the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut down). At the ends of the bars, we drill holes for these pins. We cut the ends of the bars according to the above scheme.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a bar 50x50 mm. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs from a board 50x100 mm.

It remains to make the upper harness. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we fasten to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden bars

Stage 4. Sex

Consider an example of arranging a non-leaking floor in a bath. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fixing perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor logs. We put boards 50x100 cm between the bars of the lower trim on the edge, maintain a distance between the lags of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

Floor logs can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden planks from which the lags are made. IN draft floor it is necessary to provide a hole for mounting a drain ladder from a washing or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Isospan or another vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we fix logs again on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with a waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene as a heater, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making a roof, we assemble the upper ceiling (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor log.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bath outwardly more attractive, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into sleeping area or warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, a single-slope structure will require fewer materials.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor log

Table. Types of roofs, schemes

Roof type, illustration	Advantages	Description
flat or sloping	Saving materials, ease of assembly, the ability to operate the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The overlap is organized from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous crate without gaps is assembled from edged boards or OSB, then a crate is mounted for insulation - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm or more, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing felt or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be organized from a profiled sheet, boards treated with an antiseptic, etc.
Gable. Suitable for saunas >12 sq.m.	The possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight stays. The roof is stable and durable	The angle of inclination of the roof is selected from 30 to 45 degrees, depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the upper harness and Mauerlat must be made of timber. Rafter trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang down a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are sawn according to a template, assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The last trusses on the gables are attached first, then with an interval of up to one and a half meters - the rest of the rafters. On top of the rafters, a crate of a slat or board is stuffed, a vapor barrier is pulled, and then fixed roofing material, for example, a professional sheet.

Video - Roof Construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Styrofoam will provide the walls of the bath with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use mounting foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam according to the distance between the racks of the frame, insert the foam between them, foam the slots. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger than the existing openings in order to avoid gaps.
		We use slats 2x5 cm. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out with wood screws. The distance between the rails is taken equal to the width of the insulation.
		Between the laths of the crate we lay the plates mineral wool. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats, fix it with small carnations or a stapler.
		From the outside, the bath can be upholstered with OSB-3 sheets, which are subsequently plastered or painted. Also an acceptable option would be finishing with unedged boards or siding.
		On the outside of the bath, under a layer of finishing material, we overlap a windproof film (glassine can be used). From the inside, we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns on the walls and ceiling. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallic tape.
Inner lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in the steam room. It is permissible to sheathe the walls in the dressing room PVC panels or moisture-resistant drywall, then paint.
Outer skin		Many interesting materials are used as external skin, for example, shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden boards that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

Economy bath - for sure the room is compact, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The air inlet hole is traditionally arranged near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with the insulation and wall decoration. Air flow from the supply ventilation duct must fall on the heating element of the oven. It is especially important to arrange effective ventilation if the firebox door does not go into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. The air outlet is organized according to ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is closed with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above the floor. Ventilation will take place with the windows and doors of the premises open.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Sauna equipment

Having assembled a bath with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, close it with a steel sheet so that spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces does not occur.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal furnace, the floor construction of a log of 150x50 mm in increments of 45-50 cm and a floorboard 5 cm thick will perfectly withstand the heater.

Wiring in the bath is laid either before finishing walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed strictly waterproof, class above IP 54. It is required to install a separate electrical panel and protect all cables from moisture.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel bath is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, inside divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The bath is mobile, takes up little space, economical and economical (it takes very little fuel to heat a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bath on your own, it takes half as much money and not much time and effort at all.

Assembly and disassembly of the bath is possible due to the used boards 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tenon-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The fixation of the structure is carried out with metal hoops-screeds. Additionally, the bath can be equipped with a porch, a roof, a visor.

The water in the bath-barrel is discharged through the holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bath in the country, it is worth removing the layer of soil, filling it with rubble, ramming it, and installing the bath itself on a pair of stable massive concrete blocks. Furnace installation rules, electrical wiring are standard for any type wooden baths including economy class.

Every owner of a suburban area knows about the benefits and pleasure that bath procedures bring. That is why many strive to ensure that they have this building in their own use. But not everyone has the opportunity, time and finances to build this structure of brick or logs. The way out will be the construction of a frame bath with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issues of insulation and waterproofing, then it will serve for a very long time.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Construction design and material selection

Any construction begins with planning and procurement of materials. To start shopping, you need to develop a plan.

To draw up a drawing you need:

decide on a place;
study the soil in this place, as it affects the choice of foundation;
determine for yourself which design will be optimal for you.

Include standard bath rooms in your project: dressing room, vestibule, shower room and steam room. The location of the stove should also be indicated on the schematic image of the bath.

Do not miss a single detail when preparing project documentation. Indicate absolutely everything - from the type of ventilation and features of the chimney to the materials used for interior, exterior and roofing.

At the design stage, determine the dimensions of each of the rooms, indicate them on the diagram. At the same time, consider how many people will be in the steam room at the same time. It should not be too crowded, but it will be difficult to warm up an overly large bath.

The optimal steam room is considered to be with dimensions of 2400x2000 mm with a ceiling height of 2200 mm.

Often, those who like to take a steam bath make up projects with additional premises: a relaxation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, etc. A bathroom in the bath will bring additional convenience during the adoption of bath procedures.

Video: how to draw a frame bath for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself foundation building technology

For a frame bath, you can use any type of foundation.

pile

Very easy to build and reliable. Used for small and light structures. Gained its popularity due to low cost and quick construction. When choosing foundations, important parameters are the depth of soil freezing and groundwater occurrence. Piles should be placed deeper than this level. In addition, for greater reliability, reduce the distance between the support points as much as possible. Get ready to dig deep.

There are certain subtleties of use pile foundation:

This type of foundation is best suited for unstable soil (sand, peat). In this case, the supports are dug into the soil to the depth where there is a solid stable support. Thus, the weight of the structure will fall on good soil.
Where the soil freezes below 1500 cm, piles are an excellent foundation option.
If the ground surface is uneven and very hilly, then the construction on a columnar base will also be the only way out. In this case, you will not have to perform a large amount of work to level the site.
Another type of soil that is ideal for pile foundations is dense. In order to dig a trench or a foundation pit in it, you will have to make a lot of effort. And drilling wells for piles is much easier.

Table: types of piles

Photo gallery: types of piles

Bored piles are most often used in the construction of baths. Screw metal piles can be mounted independently
Driven reinforced concrete piles are not suitable for a bath

Location and dimensions of piles

The key locations for piling are the corners of the building, the places where outer wall connects to the wall and, of course, it is necessary to install intermediate pillars along the length of the walls. The distance between the supports must be at least 2 m, so that the bearing capacity of the foundation is not violated.

Do not make pillars with a diameter of less than 20 cm. The larger this parameter, the better the bearing capacity of the foundation will be.

To understand how long the posts are needed, you need to know:

how deep does the soil freeze?
at what depth does reliable non-floating soil begin.

The level of freezing for a certain region is practically unchanged. But in order to deal with the state of the soil, test drilling will come to the rescue, which will show everything.

Step-by-step instructions for building brick piles

Rubble stone or bricks are also often used to create a foundation. They are fixed to each other concrete mortar. It is worth placing such pillars using the same technology as piles. This also applies to the distances between them. The corner posts are made square (380x380 mm), and the intermediate ones are rectangular (380x250 mm). They should rise 300–400 mm above the soil and go 250–300 mm deep.

All work on the construction of the foundation takes place in several stages:

This is the most common foundation option. And not only for the construction of a bath. He gained his popularity due to the ease of construction. Ideal for non-flowing immovable soils, with deep groundwater.

To build a bath, it does not need to be deepened too much, especially if the soil does not freeze much.

If the bath stove requires a separate foundation, then it is better to start building it together with the foundation for the entire building.

Follow the steps in the following sequence:

Pour concrete from a height of 500 mm or less. This way the concrete won't break.

Formation of the floor structure and its thermal insulation

You can increase the service life of the bath if you follow detailed instructions for floor installation. This will avoid heat leaks and rotting floorboards, as well as minutes of other unpleasant consequences.

To install the bath, follow the instructions below:

The floor for the shower is done a little differently:

Make a separate foundation for the washroom. This ensures that the floor in it will always be warm and dry quickly.
Remove the soil layer (0.5 m), make a sand and gravel cushion 10 cm thick in this pit.
Make floor logs from asbestos-cement pipes, the diameter of which is 100 mm. They can be laid on the foundation and poured with concrete mortar, which will keep them from moving.
Lay a round edged board 40-50 mm thick on the pipes. Leave gaps between them for rubber gaskets of about 6–7 mm. They are attached to the boards with nails.
Press the floor with skirting boards.

Video: how to make a drain in the bath floor

How to calculate and build walls

Now that the base has hardened, the floor is done, you can begin to build the skeleton of the walls of the bath. To start this work, the wood must be well dried. It is not recommended to take birch for these purposes, since it is subject to rapid decay.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of walls, it is recommended to carry out a preliminary calculation of the material. At the same time, remember that it must be purchased with a margin. The construction of the walls takes place in the following order:

Start with the bottom strap. For its installation, purchase strong bars, the cross section of which is 100x100 mm. Connect them at the corners in a quarter, fasten them well with nails. To prevent the bottom trim and attached corner posts from moving, place them on 20 mm thick steel pins that need to be embedded in concrete.
The beam of the same section is used to create the upper trim.
For greater rigidity of the frame, install eight braces in the corners of the bath.
Along the perimeter of the walls, place intermediate racks from the same beam that was used to make the strapping.

In order not to work at height, experts recommend building and fastening the frame of the walls on the ground, and then simply lift them, insert them into place and secure. It's much more convenient and faster.

How to install a truss system

For the construction of the roof frame, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 150x50 mm. They are placed on the edge and fastened to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 100–120 mm. In a vertical position, fix them with “kerchiefs”, connect them from above with a ridge.

Outside, about 400 mm of beams must be left.

For the roof sheathing, boards of 250 mm are suitable. Fix them in the direction from the ridge down.

The rafters are fastened with special metal plates.

For ease of installation, assemble the entire "skeleton" of the roof on the ground, and then hoist it into place, as is the case with walls.

Proper and practical insulation: detailed instructions

The frame structure is very light, therefore, the insulation must also be appropriate in order to avoid deformation of the walls.

When choosing a heater for a bath, you must adhere to several rules:

the material must have good thermal insulation properties;
its properties should not disappear when exposed to high temperature and humidity;
there should be no release of toxic substances;
it must be fireproof.

Table: which insulation to choose

Name	Description
	Despite the fact that mineral wool is not heavy, it is still not recommended to use it, because when combined with facing materials it can get pretty heavy. Mineral wool is formed by plexuses of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or from waste from metallurgical production. When these fibers are intertwined, there are empty air spaces between them. It is thanks to this that mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties. The material has a high melting point inorganic substances so it can be used in the bath. High humidity also does not harm mineral wool.
	Natural material. Distinguished by its environmental friendliness. It has high thermal insulation properties. The thickness of the plates is 150 mm. This convenient size for warming frame structures, including baths.
Sawdust-gypsum composition	This type of insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of sawdust, which are thoroughly dried beforehand, and 1 part of gypsum or cement mortar. Good value for money. You can do it yourself.
	This is a cheap and lightweight material, it is easy to mount and adjust to the desired size, has excellent thermal insulation properties, and is immune to moisture. However, this material does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is better for them to insulate places remote from the furnace.

Photo gallery: types of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene cannot be used near the oven. You can make sawdust-gypsum mixture yourself Reed slabs are natural insulation Mineral wool slabs do not change their properties under the influence of high temperature and humidity

Bath warming steps

It is worth insulating the walls of the bath at the stage of building walls. Heat-insulating material is laid in the gaps between the load-bearing parts of the building frame. Waterproofing is laid on top of it. Thus, a “pie” is obtained, in the center of which there is a heater, outside - waterproofing, on both sides - lining.

Experts advise laying insulation in two layers, one of which comes in the form of plates, and the second in a roll. Thus, all unnecessary gaps are removed, and the bath will be really well insulated. It should be noted that these materials have an inner and outer side.

Insulation options around the stove

This is the place where the temperature reaches its highest point. Therefore, the walls here should be additionally protected from fire. Some use asbestos plates for this. Others feel that this material is not very useful for human body and recommend using basalt or isolon. But all types of materials perfectly cope with exposure to high temperatures, protect the walls of the bath from unpleasant consequences.

Floor and ceiling insulation

This work can be done in several steps:

Tamp the soil carefully. Pour a concrete screed base on it.
Lay a layer waterproofing material(roofing material or dense polyethylene).
Install thermal insulation.
Cover again with a layer of waterproofing.
Pour the top layer of concrete screed.

Thus, you will make a draft floor. It can be additionally worked out with waterproofing solutions, after complete solidification. This will additionally protect the floor from moisture ingress through microcracks in the concrete and extend the service life.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology as the walls:

Waterproofing

In addition to the fact that the walls need to be insulated, they also need to be protected from moisture. Two reasons contribute to this:

From exposure to moisture, any insulation to varying degrees begins to lose its thermal insulation qualities. And for a bath, this is not very good.
Heat-insulating materials dry for a long time after contact with moisture. From this, mold and rot can appear, which can go to the frame.

As a vapor barrier material, you can use:

aluminum foil (it not only protects against moisture, but also reflects heat);
glassine, which is environmentally friendly, is inexpensive;
polyethylene.

Roofing material can be used as waterproofing. But it is not recommended for finishing the bath, because under the influence of high temperatures it begins to smell unpleasant.

The vapor barrier material must be laid with an overlap, and the joints must be glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Video: what mistakes can be made when laying vapor barrier

External and internal decoration of a summer or winter bath

The frame should not only serve you for a long time, but also be beautiful in appearance.

The interior lining should not only be beautiful, but also withstand high temperature and humidity. Lining made of coniferous wood will perfectly cope with this task. Just don't use it in a steam room as it can release tar. Larch lining is more suitable here.

Linden is a great option for finishing the ceiling and making shelves and deck chairs.

Video: how much and what you need to spend money on when building a bath

Building a bath in a frame way is one of the cheapest options. And modern Decoration Materials, for example, an imitation of a bar or a block house will give the building a look almost indistinguishable from a real wooden bath. Material consumption for installation is 2-3 times less. Our experts will tell you how to gradually build a frame bath with your own hands.

frame small bath economical and easy to fit in any area.

The frame bath has advantages: low price, quick assembly, lightweight foundation and cons: moisture can easily get into the frame, the building must be carefully insulated and external and interior decoration. But the problems can be solved if the construction is taken with responsibility.

Where is it better to put a frame bath on the site will tell the landscape designer Vera Nikolaevna, Moscow

Vera Nikolaevna is a specialist in the field of planning wooden baths.

Vera Nikolaevna has a higher architectural education and a second degree in landscape design. The main specialization is planning a bath from a tree, linking the project to the site. More than 10 years of experience in this field.

What are the main factors to consider before building a bath?

Before building a frame bath, it is necessary to plan and select a project. You can build without it, but it will be wrong. The choice of a project depends on several factors:

What will be the bath: free-standing or attached to the main house.
Plan a place on the site. Moreover, it is important to think about how to conduct water, electricity, etc. to the bathhouse. The location of communications affects the choice of location in the first place.
To find out what kind of geodesy is on the site, the design of the foundation of the frame bath depends on this in the future.
It will be determined how many floors the building will have, the size and internal layout.
Where the stove will be installed in the bath depends on how the ventilation system and chimney will be designed.
It is necessary to choose a roof, this will affect truss system and roof structure.

Typical design of a frame bath 5400x6300 m

Only after that a bath project is developed. As you draw up, you can correct and supplement the design with various details. The more detailed the project is, the easier it will be to build a frame bath on your site.

In order to save money, it is convenient to purchase a standard project, of which there are many in construction companies. It is safer to choose one for which there are many ready-made photos.

When choosing a suitable bath, do not forget about the design of neighboring buildings: houses, gazebos. Everything should be in a single harmonious ensemble.

After choosing a project, you can proceed to the installation of the foundation.

How best to carry out the installation of frame construction, will tell the foreman of the company "Build Together", St. Petersburg Viktor Leonidovich

The foreman of a large construction company talks about the intricacies of building a frame bath.

Viktor Leonidovich built more than 400 frame bath projects on household plots and on private property. Its baths have been serving their owners for more than 15 years.

How to assemble the foundation for a bath with your own hands?

A complex foundation for a frame bath should not be built and it is not necessary to withstand it for a year before assembling the box. The easiest way for clay or heaving geodesy is to assemble a tape that is not buried. Perform work as follows:

According to the project, the perimeter of the foundation is marked, pegs are simply stuck in the corners.
A trench is dug to a depth of 60 cm and a width of 40 cm, this is enough for frame construction.
Sand is poured into the trench by 10-15 cm and watered with rammer water. The next layer is filled with gravel or broken red brick and again a layer of sand to the ground level.
Formwork is mounted on the trench. It is easier to make it yourself from boards and bars 40x40 mm. The formwork must be at least 50 cm high and 35 cm wide.
A framework of reinforcement is assembled into the formwork. As a savings, you can use various iron elements, for example, old pipes from the heating system.
The structure is poured with concrete. Filling can be done at once or in stages, but the bottom layer should not have time to grab.
From above, the foundation is waterproofed with 2-3 layers of roofing material or liquid rubber in 2–3 mm. The sides are coated with bituminous mastic.

Before starting the assembly of the box, you need to make sure that the foundation is ripe and dry. Proper drying is carried out gradually, covering the structure with old plastic bags or film for 2–3 days. Then open and let stand for another 1-2 days.

What features does the bath box assembly have?

Frame bath box finished with a block house.

The frame of the bath must be assembled from a beam with a section of 100x100 mm and an edged board with a width of 450 mm or more. Lumber must be dried before installation or take ready-made chamber drying. The second option is more expensive. Wood can be any: larch, pine, spruce, aspen. In any case, inside the bath will get off and there will be no smudges of resin.

All material is treated with antiseptics before assembly. To do this, it is better to use special ones, such as Senezh or TechnoNikol. There are old-fashioned methods: using engine oil or blue vitriol. But the first will emit a liquid smell, and the second is poisonous.

The finished frame of a large bath from a chamber-drying beam.

The first step is laying out the bottom harness. The beam in the corners is connected with special metal brackets or with nails in gusset without a trace, for example, in half a quarter. The strapping is not laid directly on the foundation, but on two narrow slats, which must be laid along the entire perimeter of the base.

At the corners to the strapping, a vertical beam is mounted in size equal to the height of the box. It is best to fix it to the foundation using special fasteners for a pin of at least 200 mm. One side of the fastener is screwed to the foundation, the other side holds the vertical bar. From above, the structure is connected by an upper strapping.

To give additional rigidity, racks from the same timber are placed between the corners. Corner posts are additionally fixed with at least 8 braces. After proceed to the assembly of the subfloor.

Do-it-yourself logs for the subfloor are easier to assemble from twin boards 50x150 mm. Lay the lags of the protruding part of the foundation. A rough floor is laid on top of the logs. The floor cake in the rest rooms and the dressing room is made with insulation. To do this, slats are nailed to the logs from below and boards are laid on them. Waterproofing and insulation are mounted on the boards. Then a vapor barrier and a finishing board or screed are mounted.

In the steam room, for ease of assembly with your own hands, it is easier to assemble simple floors, but you need to bring them down from the slopes to the middle. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate near the walls and frame structure won't last long.

Frame walls must be sewn up from the outside with boards. Then waterproofing is laid from the inside, it is better to take a special membrane. It is not worth using roofing felt for a bath; when heated, it will emit a strong odor. A heater is placed on top. The bath implies the use of environmentally friendly and fireproof materials, such as mineral wool (stone, glass, etc.).

Lining made of linden is mounted on an additional crate from the inside of the frame bath.

The insulation should be laid tightly between the timber. From the inside, it is necessary to lay foil insulation. It will perform two functions at once: protect the insulation and create the effect of a thermos in the steam room. Joints are carefully glued with special foil tape. A crate of timber is made on the foil insulator and a lining made of linden or aspen is stuffed.

The roof is assembled like all structures, according to the selected project. We have already talked about how to mount the roof of the bath in more detail.

What material is better to finish the frame bath from the outside?

The wall of the frame bath sheathed with a block house.

The facade of the frame bath is finished with any material. They choose based on the general design of all buildings on the site. If the main house is made of brick, then you can sheathe the bath with tile panels under it or overlay it in half a brick. Moreover, laying in half a brick, you can once again insulate the building from the outside. The basic scheme of the pie will be slightly supplemented, but the steam room will become warmer.

Natural imitation of timber and block house look good. They are made of wood bath will not lose environmental friendliness. And it will be difficult to distinguish a structure from a bath from a bar or a rounded log.

If you perform reinforcement, you can use decorative plaster. It is also environmentally friendly, and the range of colors and textures in stores is huge.

Most inexpensive option is it siding or plastic lining. The first option is more durable.

Is Canadian technology a breakthrough in frame sauna building?

Frame bath assembled according to Canadian technology.

Frame baths according to Canadian technology appeared in Russia relatively recently. Canadian technology has a number of advantages:

The service life of a bath is 2-3 times longer than any frame.
Repair work have to be done less frequently.
Environmental friendliness and aesthetics.
The price is slightly higher than the traditional frame.
Assembly can be done in 3-4 days.
It is good to tolerate negative environmental influences.
Light weight construction.

The basis of the frame of the Canadian bath is made of metal frame or from a bar of chamber drying. From above and from the inside, the entire structure is sewn up with slabs of cement and shavings. The bath is insulated with mineral wool between the plates and sealing vapor-proof materials. Thanks to the design, the bath is completely sealed and moisture does not get inside. The Canadian frame bath is made only in large-scale industries according to pre-designed drawings.

Any frame construction and especially baths seem uncomplicated. But it takes no less effort and time to work than to build a steam room from solid wood. Just finishing and insulation are costly and time-consuming. Which bath is better to build with your own hands for the family, everyone decides for himself.