What to put on the subfloor. Installation of draft wooden floors. Everything you need to know about lags

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of the device floors in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

The main element of the building structure for the floor is the strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made of a powerful beam with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden details do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve for many years. In the absence of oil, special tools are used that are available in every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any floor can be used as a finishing floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to sum it up correctly engineering Communication, such as:

heating;
water supply;
sewerage;
electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, under the subfloor, you can install electric water heater, and it is possible to equip a gas boiler room. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It fits under mineral insulation and over it. The non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with a special double sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards are widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing with a special adhesive. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

does not require special skills;
the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of 3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of fine finish floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. Natural material is increasingly used by owners country houses, preferring it to bricks and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

No matter on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or just a building is being erected on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First prepare the walls, equipping them with ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house used for a seasonal stay, you need to do the floor differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

The double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

material opportunities;
purpose of the premises;
planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Boards made of coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood floor covering. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is laying it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as the base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as in the case of a massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

The arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, having shown perseverance, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat is removed, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from plywood smeared with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with a sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be adversely affected. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

The draft floor is necessary as a reliable base for laying various coatings - parquet, laminate and other materials. Much depends on the quality of the subfloor: squeaks when walking, service life, humidity and temperature in the house. Creating a subfloor at the stage of building a house differs from the same operation, which is performed during repairs by fixing the lag. In the article we will talk about all the stages of creating a subfloor in a wooden house, so you can do this work yourself.

Mounting methods

All draft floors can be divided according to the method of attachment load-bearing structure:

attached to walls;
installed on a concrete base;
installed on the ground;
combined.

Fastening the supporting structures of the subfloor to the walls is most in demand in houses installed on a screw, columnar and strip foundation. More about different types foundations read in the article -. This method of fastening allows you to create a rigid load-bearing floor frame, but requires a large amount of wood. The most popular mounting methods are with the help of corners and in a cut groove. The first method is simpler, but less reliable, the second method is more reliable, but involves cutting one of the crowns.

When installing the floor on a concrete base, various supports are used that allow you to raise the logs above the concrete. Brick pedestals are used as supports and metal mounts. It is also possible to lay the log directly on concrete, but in this case it will be necessary to carry out very high-quality waterproofing. In some wooden houses, floor supports are installed on the ground. In this case, brick pedestals are built as supports. The combined method of fixing the supporting structure of the floor implies the use of the methods described above in any combination.

subfloor construction

The basis of the subfloor is the logs, from which the supporting structure is assembled. In most cases, the lags are laid in one row, but there are exceptions. If it is not possible to use a board of sufficient width and thickness, then the supporting structure is made two-row, placing the rows perpendicular to each other. I also use this design if the black floor sheathing boards must be laid across the room, and for this I had to lay the logs along, which increases the requirements for the width and thickness of the boards. Laying perpendicular supports under the upper joists reduces the requirements for the width and thickness of the board. A rough flooring of sawn, planed or profiled boards is laid on top of the supporting structure. This flooring not only creates a platform for laying the coating (finish floor), but is also an additional element of the bonding of the supporting structure.

Tools for the job

Whether you're flooring a new home or renovating an old one, you'll need a variety of tools, such as:

benzo or electric saw;
jigsaw;
axe;
chisels;
screwdriver;
drill;
grinder;
hammer;
level;
simple pencil;
roulette.

Installation of the subfloor at the stage of wall construction

The easiest way to make a rough floor is during the construction of the house. To do this, it is necessary to cut through or non-through grooves in the timber or logs of the corresponding crowns, into which the logs will then be laid. The optimal distance between the logs is 60–80 cm. If the thickness of the board with which the logs will be sewn up exceeds 30 mm, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 90–100 cm. Lay the logs across the room. If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then it is advisable to install at least one support under each log or increase the thickness and width of the log by 1–2 cm. You can also use a bar with a section of 150x150 mm. This will reduce the likelihood of floor sagging and squeaks.

Having chosen a board or beam to create a lag, measure its width and mark the corresponding crown for cutting grooves. If the wall is made of profiled or glued timber, the width of which is equal to the width of the log, then cut through the entire timber, cutting out pieces of it according to the size of the log. If the wall is made of sawn or planed timber, then cut the groove ¾ of the width and thickness. After all, the crowns from such a bar are not connected to the castle, therefore, cutting the bar, you will break the wall structure.

If you don't want lags to spoil appearance houses from profiled or glued timber, then cut the same grooves as on sawn timber.

Having prepared the grooves, cut the logs to length. If necessary, cut a lock on the logs corresponding to the groove in the wall. Then cover the joists and cutouts in the wall with protective agents that you plan to use to treat your home. More about that. After the impregnation has dried, insert the logs into the wall and check their horizontalness using a level and a long, even rail. If some lag protrudes above the others, cut it, if, on the contrary, below the others, put something under it. A crooked, twisted or cracked lag should be replaced immediately with a normal one.. If you cut the logs to create a castle, then to increase the strength of the house, install a retaining board under the logs, which will take the weight of the floor. Attach this board to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Instead of a board, you can use steel and aluminum corners that are sold at any hardware store. Attach these corners to the wall with thick long screws, and to the joists with bolts, washers and nuts.

After all the logs are laid, leveled and fixed, install the next crown, then cover them with the selected board. grooved batten It is preferable, since there is less heat loss through it. If you are insulating the floor, then first carry out all the insulation work, then sew it up with a board. Lay the board in such a way that the distance between the coating and the walls is 1-2 cm, this is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the coating due to moisture absorption. Also, do not move the flooring boards to each other as far as they will go, leaving 1-2 mm between them, which will avoid swelling of the floor due to swelling of the boards. Use self-tapping screws 70–120 mm long to fasten the covering boards to the joists. If it is not possible to screw in a self-tapping screw of this length, then first drill a pilot hole with a diameter of 1.5–2 mm.

Replacing the old floor in a wooden house

If the old wooden floor is rotten or you decide to replace it for some reason, remove the finished floor and subfloor covering, this will allow you to assess the condition of the log and walls. If the old logs are damaged, completely remove them by cutting flush with the wall. Inspect the crown into which the lags were cut; it may need to be repaired or replaced. If the crown is in order, process it with a grinder and cover protective compounds. Also treat the logs and floorboards with protective compounds.

Read the material on how to do this. Mark the lag installation sites on the wall and draw a line along their bottom. From below, close to this line, attach a support board, on which you will lay the logs. Lay the extreme logs at a distance of 10–15 cm from the walls, the remaining logs at a distance of 60–100 cm from each other (depending on the thickness of the covering boards). After installing the log, fix it with a corner, as described in the previous section, or support it on both sides with bosses from scraps of the base board or log. Such fixation will securely fix the lags and prevent the appearance of squeaks. After that, sew up the subfloor with boards, as described above.

Subfloor with supports on earth or concrete

The difference between such a floor and those described above is that the main load falls not on the walls, but on the ground or concrete. This is true for old houses and for buildings standing on slab foundation. If you are changing the floor, then remove the old boards, clean and repair the walls as described in the previous section. Then determine the installation locations of the lag and the places on which the supporting pedestals will stand. If you put the cabinets on the ground, then dig a foundation under them, a square or rectangular hole with a section of 1x1 meter and a depth of 20 centimeters. Seal the bottom of the pit and pour a layer of sand 5 cm thick on it. Sprinkle a layer of crushed stone 5 cm thick on top, then pour a reinforced concrete pillow 10 cm thick. After 5–7 days, lay a brick support on this pillow on cement mortar. The height of the support should be such that there is a distance of 1–2 cm between it and the bottom side of the log. The upper part of the support pedestal is covered with bitumen and roofing felt to ensure the waterproofing of the log. Then the logs are installed as described in the previous section, after which wedges or spacers of the required thickness are inserted between the supports and the logs, which will raise the log by fractions of a millimeter. Sheathing the log with floorboards is carried out in the same way as described above.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Warming is an obligatory element of creating a subfloor in any wooden house. Insulation reduces heat loss at home and increases the comfort of living in it. Without insulation, a wooden floor loses half of its positive qualities. in detail different methods insulation of the subfloor in a wooden house is described in the article -. Do not neglect this procedure, thanks to which you will be able to walk around the house even barefoot in winter.

When building a new house or arranging an old one, an important part repair work is laying the subfloor in accordance with the rules. In the article we will consider the features of folding the base and the use of insulation and insulating materials.

Features of laying the subfloor along the logs

Most builders recommend equipping the subfloor as an additional insulation and a guarantee of strength and reliability. Features of laying are not difficult, and therefore everyone can do all the work on their own. One disadvantage of this floor is poor impact sound insulation, which is indicated by the strong fastening of the elements. Experts do not recommend doing such an arrangement in toilets, saunas, bathrooms or baths, because the high humidity of the room is not suitable for the boards.

The draft floor in a wooden house on logs is a bar that makes up the frame for laying and leveling. In this variation, boards are used that are not planed, of the second and third grade, preferably from coniferous or soft hardwood. IN country houses you can use logs as a log, which equips a more durable and robust design. At the beginning of work, all logs must be processed in relation to the alignment of the material. In fact, the part of the beams that will be fastened to the boards must be leveled and hewn, but it is almost impossible to achieve a high level.

The logs are laid in grooves, which are prepared at the beginning of construction, while the distance between the logs and the wall should be approximately 2 to 3 mm. This is due to the method of laying the subfloor in a wooden house, which will not creak during operation. Boards are treated with antiseptic agents or bitumen to avoid the penetration of pests, mold and fungus. The grooves are not the only fastener, and therefore must have other supporting elements, for example, brick pillars.

Log stacking: installation

1. The distance between the lags should be 60 cm, when using boards of greater width or logs of a significant diameter, the distance can increase to 1 meter.

2. After laying the logs, proceed to the next step. We use bars with a section of 50x50, which acts as a support, and fasten them with self-tapping screws on each side of the log.

3. It is recommended that the fastening procedure be carried out carefully, since the structure may be fragile and fall apart during work. To do this, we fasten all fasteners carefully and securely in order to avoid harm to ourselves.

Some homemade builders purchase 15x40 boards, and then divide them into several parts, as 50x40 bars are obtained, which is a good alternative to the previous process.

Fastening the bars and laying the subfloor: features of the work

The feature of attaching the bars to the logs should be calculated for additional space for the use of insulating materials. With an insulation thickness of 10 cm and a board thickness of 2.5 cm, the distance between the bars and logs should be 12.5 cm. Of course, all the data given may be different depending on the material you use.

The device of the subfloor in a wooden house is the next stage of work. There are some points that can complicate the installation process. For example, logs in their structure are an uneven building material with various knots, cavities, so it will be difficult to finish boards of the same size and thickness. In this case, you will have to carefully process each element.

In the presence of bars, the work process is greatly simplified, especially when filing and dividing the material into boards. They are attached to the bars that are attached to the logs from different sides. For fastening, you can use self-tapping screws, as well as nails.

Such a preparatory floor is rather unstable and cannot withstand a person's weight of more than 80 kg. With more weight, the boards can fail, which will have unpleasant consequences for workers. To avoid such incidents, it is recommended to put boards of greater thickness on the logs and then engage in the process of installing a subfloor in a wooden house.

Instructions for the construction of the crate for the insulation tab

After laying the boards, you can start work on floor insulation using different insulating materials. Hardware stores offer a wide range of products with different prices and features. Therefore, it is not difficult to choose a heater, for example, mineral materials are exhibited by manufacturers, as well as fiberglass or basalt, board styrenes and sprayed products.

If necessary, the insulation can be easily adjusted to the size of the repair area using construction knives. Some owners prefer to use environmental materials, which are expanded clay or slag. In wooden houses, warming the subfloor with natural materials will help preserve the ecology of the room and create more comfort.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a crate for insulation:

1. We lay the logs in the grooves prepared for this. All elements must be fastened tightly. Leveling the floor is carried out using a level, which determines the entire plane of the base.

2. We lay the draft material on the logs following the previous recommendations.

3. Since the tree absorbs moisture, the surface must be covered with a special film or rubber.

4. The material is attached with a stapler to the surface. It is important to ensure that the laid raw material is not swollen or has depressions. Thus, waterproofing of the subfloor in a wooden house is carried out, which ensures that excess moisture does not get inside.

5. The next step is stuffing rails with a width of 5 cm, however, this parameter may vary depending on the type of insulation purchased. As in the facade lathing, the slats must be laid in the same direction horizontally or vertically. In a wooden house, such laying is especially important, since a schematic presentation of the boards will save the wood from decay.

6. In the formed spaces fit insulation materials. When using expanded clay, it is carefully poured into the openings, and a few centimeters are left from the surface. It is important that the sizes of the granules are different, because this will allow the base to be more compact. Styrenes or rock wool are also laid off to the very top, and this allows some material-free layer to be created, which will serve to ventilate the floor and retain heat.

7. After that, a vapor barrier layer is laid out on top of the bars, which is very important when arranging a warm floor.

In wooden houses, as a rule, a system of water heating of the floor is used, and therefore there is a possibility of creating condensate. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier material, it perfectly absorbs all vapors, preventing them from damaging the base.

The last step is laying the finishing floor. For this, tongue-and-groove boards or special plywood are used, which is able to absorb moisture. This material is used for further finishing the floor with linoleum or laminate. All surfaces must be carefully ground with a grinder to avoid unevenness or floor inaccuracies.

Do-it-yourself method of dry screeding the subfloor in a wooden house

If there is a concrete floor in a wooden house, the owners want to convert it to special floors. Of course, there is a conversion method using a dry screed or self-ventilating floor system. The first option is more affordable in construction. To equip the subfloor with your own hands, it is recommended to use the following materials and tools:

expanded clay;
polyethylene film;
plywood GVL or chipboard;
damper tape;
PVA glue;
electric jigsaw;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
marker, ruler and tape measure.

All work is carried out in stages in accordance with the requirements and recommendations below.

1. A polyethylene film is laid on the concrete floor, which is used as a waterproofing. The flooring on the wall should be about 10-15 cm, and between the joints of the material it is worth making an overlay of 20 cm. To ensure the reliability of fastening the elements, it is important to seal all the seams with adhesive tape.

2. The next element is gluing the damper tape around the entire perimeter. The height of the tape along the edges should be slightly more than the expanded claydite layer poured out as an insulating material.

3. Experts recommend using beacons when installing subfloors in a wooden house, the video of which can be viewed at the end of this article. They serve as a building level for pouring granules and their even arrangement on the film. With the use of bars, the height can be increased or decreased to create the plane you need.

4. Next, expanded clay is poured out and leveled, focusing on the installed beacons. It is not recommended to pour the insulation over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room at the same time. First, process one part and cover it with a sheet of plywood, and after the second, and so on. Such work is carried out in order to better move around the repair area, while the expanded clay layer must be at least 2 cm, otherwise the plywood will slide underfoot.

Laying materials on expanded clay

The process of laying sheets of plywood or GLV on expanded clay is a rather important stage, because when installed, you will immediately understand how reliably the work has been done. To do this, it is important to walk on them, which is why you will feel the subsidence of the material. For beginners, this situation may be bewildering, but the main check is the strong subsidence of the sheets, which should not be moved in the future.

It is important to remember that floor sheets have a large weight of about 15-17 kg, and the movement of such plates on the expanded clay layer can cause its deformation. You can connect the material using self-tapping screws, but they should be located closer to each other, the approximate distance between them should be 10-12 cm. In order for all parts of the sheets to be securely fastened, it is recommended to glue them using PVA. The application process should occur in waves, and it is important not to exaggerate with the thickness of the layer, because the parts are already connected with self-tapping screws.

As a result, all joints of plywood or GLV sheets must be puttied with special mixtures. After drying, the surface is ground and rubbed so that the entire base is even. To the question: how to make a subfloor in a wooden house using a dry screed in a bathroom or other room where there is high humidity, it is recommended to use waterproofing materials with different solutions with a cement component.

Wet subfloor screed

Screeding is a more popular method than laying on logs, as the materials purchased are not as expensive or readily available. Draft floor in a wooden house, the photo of which shows the sequence of work in this technology.

The step-by-step instruction includes the following steps:

1. The working surface is completely cleared of debris and foreign objects.

2. Insulating materials are being laid, which ensure the penetration of moisture into the premises and contribute to the preservation of heat.

3. With a step of two meters, beacons are attached, which act as a level and have the form of steel rails. Thus, you will ensure the evenness of the base horizontally.

5. The last step is the formation of a coating under the finishing floor using delicate materials. As a rule, mixtures are used that level the base and should have a thickness of 15 mm.

6. After drying, a rare solution is poured onto a cleaned and primed base and leveled with a roller to get rid of all bubbles. The thickness of the subfloor on a wet screed should be up to 3 mm. The drying time of the surface is from several days to two weeks.

The draft floor is an important stage in home improvement, which ensures the preservation of heat in the room in any weather conditions. Do-it-yourself technology is a thorough work process that will require the builder to be attentive and follow the rules and steps of the instructive material.

Subfloor classification
Rules for laying the floor from the boards
Board floor insulation

A subfloor is a construction that is most often used before laying parquet, laminate, solid board. Such a floor is a construction of logs installed with different steps. You can do the floor with your own hands in 1-2 days, it is important to observe the horizontal surface here, and mount the logs themselves in increments of 60 cm to 120 cm - a lot depends on the material for the flooring. It can be boards, plywood shields, chipboard or OSB. The flooring is fastened with ordinary nails, the joints should fall on the surface of the log.

The subfloor is a log construction, which is designed for laying parquet or laminate.

Tools for work are needed:

building level;
hammer,
electric planer;
screwdriver;
Ruler and pencil.

How to prepare logs for the subfloor?

Legs are made from wooden beams.

Floors with lags are universal. They are acceptable in terms of price and installation conditions. For laying the subfloor, special logs are used. They are made of wooden beams or boards, the width of which is 100-120 mm. Logs are mounted approximately at a distance of up to 500 mm from each other. If they are laid in an apartment on existing floor slabs, then their thickness can be only 50 mm, and the working width is 100-150 mm. For the device of the subfloor, you will need more boards or slabs, a layer of sound insulation, insulation.

When laying, the logs are placed on the edge, their height should be adjusted in such a way that during the laying a perfectly even coating is obtained.

Before installing the logs must be treated with impregnation.

It is important to protect wooden logs from insects and rotting even before work. For this, various impregnations are used. Modern antiseptic, as a rule, does not have a pronounced smell. A variety of substances are used as antiseptics for impregnation of logs - these are VVK-3, ammonium, sodium silicofluoride and others. All of them are diluted with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer.

The composition on the logs must be applied in 2-3 layers, so that the processing is of high quality. First, it is recommended to process the damaged areas of the lag - ends and cuts. The relative humidity of the air in the room where the treatment will be carried out should be at least 80%. It is recommended to apply an antiseptic with a brush, you can use a roller or sprayer. First, the surface of all elements is covered with a brush, after which it is necessary to postpone them for 3-5 hours. Then a second layer of impregnation is applied, which should also dry out. Such drugs are chemical products, so the use of protective equipment in the form of gloves, face masks is required. After drying and sewing the floor, they will be completely safe and will not affect the state of health in any way, but care must be taken when working with them.

Beams for lags should be well polished.

The boards themselves must be carefully examined for their integrity, fungus damage. You can not take logs on which there are chips, knots, traces of damage. In addition to protection against mold, it is also necessary to protect the logs from insects. For this, sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride is used. All logs before laying must be processed so that they have a smooth and even surface. If it is possible to lay the flooring with grooves, then before installation they must be made with a milling cutter.

Floor boards are taken in the following sizes:

thickness - 28-36 mm;
width for the front of the board - 138 mm, 118 mm, 98 mm, 78 mm, 68 mm;
beam width - 55 mm, 45 mm, 35 mm, 28 mm.

Scheme of laying lags.

To ensure excellent ventilation of the floor, a recess of 2 mm is required. This will avoid many troubles, including damp boards, flooring.

Laying the lag itself is done in this way:

it is necessary to mark the upper level of the log around the perimeter on the walls;
start fixing the lag. For alignment, pieces of plywood, special fastener systems are used;
the height of the lag is adjusted, horizontality is checked;
if necessary, a layer of insulation is laid between the lags;
the floor is finished with boards or plywood boards.

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Subfloor classification

A single draft floor is a flooring of boards on logs.

All draft floors are classified according to the type of flooring:

single conventional floors;
double floors.

Single floors have only one layer of flooring, which is mounted on installed logs. The double floor has 2 decks:

finishing top layer, which is located under the finish flooring. Can also be used as a finish coat if the boards are pre-treated;
rough flooring.

A double floor involves two floorings.

All double decks are located at different levels, they can be made of:

ordinary boards (edged and unedged);
croakers.

Some floor elements with a thickness of 60 mm are not reinforced with nails, but simply fit into the grooves prepared for them or on the bars. The upper part of such beams must be carefully prepared, planed, then polished.

Making a subfloor with double decking is not so difficult:

the first is a rough flooring, it must be covered with a layer of mortar from clay or lime. After application, the solution must dry thoroughly;
sand or slag should be poured onto a dry surface, the height of the layer should be up to the middle of the beam. The sand is filled with lime mortar. After drying, the top flooring, which is called finishing, or clean, is attached to the beams.

So that the space formed between the board and the finished floor does not get wet, you can install a pair of ventilation holes with dimensions of 10-15 mm in the corners. Openings are recommended to be closed with gratings. If the final floor is made of grooved floorboards, it is recommended to make grooves in them for ventilation and subsequent air circulation.

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Rules for laying the floor from the boards

Scheme of the subfloor on the logs.

The rough floor of the boards is not so difficult to fit. The first board must be mounted, not forgetting to leave a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended to fasten the boards with nails, the length of which depends entirely on how thick the floor boards are. Nails must be attached at every point where the deck boards and the base joists meet. This will ensure maximum reliability of the subfloor design.

It is necessary to drive in nails deeply, it is recommended to sink the hats themselves as much as possible, but the minimum depth should be 2 mm. After the first board is strengthened, it is necessary to proceed with fastening the second one, attaching it tightly enough to the ridge. To simplify the work, a conventional hammer, gasket is used. All boards must be laid in such a way that they are tightly connected along the crest, in which case the flooring will turn out to be reliable, able to withstand all loads.

If rough flooring is performed for parquet flooring, then the nails should be driven in at an angle. Outside, they are recessed, but there are no pits, as with a conventional mount. This improves the surface quality of the deck. When laying the boards, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left, therefore, it is required to press each individual board. After laying the first base, it is necessary to knock out all subsequent ones as tightly as possible. All boards are pressed in so that between the last installed board and the wall could drive a bracket. The edge board is driven in with a hammer and a wooden spacer. It is necessary to carry out this work carefully so as not to damage the adjacent wall. Experts recommend using plywood panels, which are easy enough to attach to the wall.

For the device of the subfloor, you can use ordinary unedged boards, but they will have to be processed independently, performing the following set of works:

shaping is required from the front side;
it is necessary to trim the edges along a strictly established line, you can use a template;
when the processing is over, you can start laying the flooring.

After installing the subfloor, it is necessary to check its quality, stability, then you can start laying the floor finish. But before that, it is necessary to mount hydro and thermal insulation.

Everyone knows that it is not possible to fully live in an apartment or house without an equipped floor. It is simply necessary. Is it worth doing it in a wooden house - this question worries many. Their logic boils down to the fact that why spend money on an additional subfloor, it might be easier to just lay a finishing one right away. Everything is ambiguous here.

Of course, you can get by with a fair one, but in this case you will not be able to get a reliable and beautiful coating. But the main thing that the floor should stand out with is reliability, strength, a flat surface, as well as some other parameters that are extremely difficult to achieve without a subfloor. Changing the final floor every year, if there is no rough one, is an unaffordable luxury.

Photo: draft floor in a wooden house

Draft floor - what is it?

A subfloor is a special base for a finishing floor, which forms a flat horizontal plane for it. The subfloor provides distribution of the load that acts on the floor covering.

In a wooden house, the draft floor can be done in several ways:

wooden on logs;
plywood flooring;
pouring concrete.

Wooden draft floor on logs

In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor on logs is practically the same as its installation in monolithic or brick houses. The main difference is in the fastening of the lag.

General scheme devices

lag mount

Floor logs should not be attached to wooden wall, and you don't have to hit it. It is advisable to fix the logs to the plinth or grillage of the foundation, retreating from the wall by a few centimeters. At the same time, the distance of the support, which falls on the foundation, must be observed at least 10 cm on either side of the log.

Legs are attached to the plinth

Before laying the logs on the foundation, you need to lay the lower harness, made of long thin boards, to which the logs will be attached using metal anchors (corners).

The lags should not be fixed rigidly to the harness - they only need to be fixed so that they do not travel while laying other layers of the subfloor. The created structure will have a few cm indent from each wall, where thin insulation can be installed.

Definitely need waterproofing

If the distance to the foundation is less than 10 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls, however, it will be necessary to initially lay the lags on the foundation, and then attach a log or beam to them. Measure the contour of the cutout and then cut out the necessary grooves in the wood with the dimensions necessary for the distance of the support (for subsequent expansion, the lag should be added about 2 cm).

Do not forget that the laying of beams and lags is carried out on the plinth or grillage only after laying the waterproofing layer.

Lags are attached to the foundation grillage

The standard step between the lags is 40-60 cm. However, its choice depends on the width of the insulation, as well as the direct load. The lag section is also selected from the current load. With a light section, choose 15 × 10 cm, with an average - 15 × 15 cm, with a heavy one - 15 × 20 cm.

If the beam has a small cross section, and the effect of the load is significant, then it must be placed at a distance of 30-40 cm - this is a fairly optimal option.

Installation of the subfloor on the logs

With the end of the laying of the logs, the standard installation of the floor on the logs is carried out. It looks like this:

Between the insulation and the floorboard you need to leave a ventilation gap

Important! Boards, bars and logs should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from being exposed to various fungi and insects.

Subfloor plywood

A plywood floor will serve reliably for a long time. She has high strength. Plywood can even be used for final flooring, as if carefully sanded and varnished, it will look quite noble. However, it is more often used as a base for coating with laminate, parquet and linoleum.

Laying plywood on an old floor

Plywood can be laid:

On cement base, but it is necessary to ensure the evenness and horizontalness of the base, or use adjusting racks.
Fastening on the logs. Here the difficulty is the exposure of the lags to ensure that the joints of the sheets hit them. Logs must be set so that their upper surface provides one horizontal plane. Engineering communications are hidden in the logs, insulation and sound insulation are laid.

Laying plywood on logs

Important! When laying plywood in one layer, it is necessary that its thickness be at least 15 mm, if in two layers, then you need to choose at least 9 mm for the layer.

All dust and debris must be removed from the subfloor before final laying of the plywood. It is also desirable to perform priming, that is, to process with a special primer.