The better to insulate an old wooden house from the outside. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside so that it breathes. The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside: choose the material

It is good when the house is warm and comfortable, it sounds especially true for owners of private houses. The issue of home insulation is often of interest to residents countryside, most of them live in wooden buildings.

If you start to put in order the old wooden house, then you definitely need to do its warming. There are also new houses made of timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after completion. construction works. With thermal insulation, a natural question immediately arises, what material to use and how wooden houses are insulated.

log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly, they are not hot in summer, and warm in winter, there is always a normal level of humidity. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation, so that they always live as comfortably as possible, and heat losses are minimized.

Most of the heat in wooden houses leaves through the roof up to about 40%, up to 35% can go through the windows, the walls take about 10%, and the floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that a lot of money is spent on heating housing during the cold period of time, and there is still no comfortable temperature for the family to live.

Properly chosen means for performing thermal insulation normalize temperature regime in a dwelling, including a wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate houses outside and inside. Professionals recommend for greater efficiency make thermal insulation from the outside of the building so that it is comfortable to live in it throughout the year.

Material selection

Most suitable option mineral wool can be called for the insulation of wooden houses, it has all the necessary qualities - it is lightweight, keeps heat well and has an affordable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material, it will not be affected by thermal deformations of the walls of the house, and “cold bridges” will not appear. After the walls of the house are insulated with mineral wool from the outside, they need to be sheathed with a board so that the building has a traditional appearance.

You can also insulate your home using polystyrene foam, but they are not recommended to insulate wooden houses, such insulation is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. The tree must breathe, and polystyrene foam, despite its qualities, does not pass air well. For this reason, condensation may accumulate, and this will lead to the formation of mold and mildew.

good option for external insulation of wooden houses will be ecowool. Modern insulation contains 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptics. They help protect the building from rodents and mold. Such material is suitable for insulation of any type of buildings.

There are also options for warming wooden houses with fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, sawdust granules. Any of the selected materials must have the following characteristics:

The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation should be higher than that of wood or at the same level.
Increased moisture resistance to avoid future mold or fungus formation on the walls of the building.
Good refractory properties, this is especially important for wooden buildings.
breathable ability. The selected material must have this property, otherwise the wooden walls of the house will not be able to "breathe", and this will disrupt the entire microclimate inside the building.
Loose structure of the insulation. It will help to fit more closely to the walls and will give a greater effect in the thermal insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of warming wooden houses takes place in stages, first you need to decide on the material, and then proceed to the vapor barrier of the house. As a material, you can choose:

aluminum foil.
Special vapor barrier film.
Ruberoid.
Polyethylene film.

Vapor barrier will provide ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially important for walls wooden building with a smooth board. On such a surface, it is necessary to fill wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in a vertical position. A layer of vapor barrier is stuffed onto the prepared and fixed rails. In the upper and lower parts, it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, with a diameter of about 20 mm. This will prevent moisture from accumulating under the film and will maximize the life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is attached with nails or staples, as well as additionally with adhesive tape, so that moisture does not get into the attachment points in the future.

The second stage is the device of the frame. For this work, you will need boards 40-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The boards are stuffed vertically on the edge to the wall surface with a distance that will be a couple of centimeters less than the thickness of the insulation (mineral wool slabs). For this work, the board should not be thin, since the facing material will then also be attached to it.

The next step is to lay a layer of thermal insulation material. It is best to lay mineral wool in two layers with a thickness of 50 mm boards. Insulation plates are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the plates of the second layer of mineral wool should be at the joints of the first layer of insulation so that no gaps form. Although mineral wool boards are resilient and semi-rigid, they can hold together without slipping on the frame without fastening. It is better to fasten them with metal or plastic anchors for greater reliability.

The last layer is waterproofing, which must be laid on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film must allow steam to pass through and not retain moisture on the wall and thermal insulation. The waterproofing film must be firmly nailed or stapled to the wooden frame. Make the joints overlap by about 5-10 cm, and glue them with self-adhesive tape for better sealing.

After finishing laying the waterproofing, you can proceed to the exterior cladding of the walls of the house. The main stages of insulation are completed, and finishing material will serve only a decorative function. What to choose for facing will depend on the style of the building and the taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often chosen for decorative cladding natural wood or plastic, but keep in mind that the total thickness of the insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm. This will significantly deepen the windows of the old building, so you should think about how they will be closed from the side of the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to insulate the outside, it is easier to insulate the house from the inside. If you correctly perform the external insulation of the walls of the house, then this will help not only to avoid heat loss, the thermal insulation layer will serve as protection against temperature changes, as well as from dampness and humidity. If possible, it is necessary to deal with the insulation of the foundation of the building. It is best to do this even before the start of wall insulation, having processed the foundation in advance and then sheathing it with felt or jute tow. Before insulating the walls of the house, it is advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help prevent damage to your home in the future.

It is advisable to caulk all the cracks in the walls wooden house, which can be easily detected in calm weather with a lit candle, bringing it as close as possible to the surface of the wall. When the flame from a candle leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place. The presence of cracks can be seen in winter. In these places there will be a frost coating during the heating period of the building. It is best to caulk cracks in warm and dry weather, using tow, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, so it requires a special approach to itself. It can be compared to a living being, it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs insulation, like other types of buildings, but since a wooden house “breathes”, it needs a heater that will help condensate pass through it. Properly executed thermal insulation can extend the life of a wooden structure, it will always be warm and comfortable.

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Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Stages of wall insulation
Work materials
Work order

Today, more and more people in the construction of houses in order to maintain their health prefer to use natural materials, including wood. Wooden houses are often assembled from a square bar with a section of 150x150 mm and 200x200 mm. Such buildings came to us from warm countries, where the average annual temperature is about 0 degrees. In the climate of Russia and the CIS, they require good heating. This leads to high costs for electricity, gas and other heat sources. Building wooden houses last years and round logs.

It is more efficient to insulate houses from a bar from the outside.

In a wooden house it is always quiet, calm, cozy and comfortable. To achieve even greater comfort and in order to save money on space heating, many owners try to insulate their wooden houses both outside and inside. Internal insulation has a big drawback: it significantly reduces the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the most perfect option.

If you properly insulate the walls, you can minimize the heat loss of a wooden house.

You can do all this with your own hands. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Stages of wall insulation

Warming log house outside.

The whole technology of warming a house from the outside comes down to several main stages:

choice of insulation material;
calculation of the amount of materials;
direct installation of thermal insulation outside the building;
final finishing of the facade.

Among the heaters, the most popular are sheet foam, which is also called polystyrene foam, and mineral wool. For a wooden house, it is preferable to choose mineral wool. It is better ventilated (breathes) and provides excellent thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene is a very good insulation, but it does not breathe. For wooden walls, this is detrimental. They will soon begin to become covered with mold, fungus and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is better to insulate the house with mineral wool.

Calculating the amount of mineral wool is not difficult. This material is sold in slabs and rolls. It is better to choose cotton wool in plates. They are simply more convenient to use, especially when insulating even walls. The thickness of the plates is usually 50 mm. With a wooden wall thickness of 20 cm and an outdoor temperature in winter of up to minus 20 degrees, one layer of mineral wool is enough for insulation. At temperatures below minus 20, the walls can be insulated with two or three layers of heat insulator.

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The design of the insulation of a wooden house for the average climatic zone.

To perform insulation work, you will need:

mineral wool;
wooden lath 50x50 mm for single-layer insulation;
rail 50x100 mm for two-layer insulation;
waterproofing film;
self-tapping screws;
antiseptic for wood (antifungal emulsion);
construction stapler;
Staples;
metal or plastic anchors;
building level or plumb.

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The scheme of layers for the insulation of a wooden house.

Work on the insulation of walls outside is best done in the summer and do it in a certain sequence:

surface preparation;
installation of a waterproofing layer;
installation of wooden crates;
installation of mineral wool slabs;
installation of an external waterproofing layer;
facade finishing.

Surface preparation includes the treatment of the outer surfaces of the walls with an antiseptic or antifungal emulsion. After processing, the emulsion should dry well.

Aluminum foil, polyethylene film, roofing felt are used as waterproofing. But it is better to purchase a special porous insulating film. It has small membranes to allow air and water vapor to pass only in one direction. Outwardly, one side of the film is glossy, the other is slightly fleecy and rough. With this rough side, the film is directed towards the wall of the house. The waterproofing film is attached to the wooden wall with brackets using a construction stapler. Film layers are recommended to be applied in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom. The upper layers are superimposed on the lower ones with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is advisable to additionally glue the joints with construction tape, which is sold together with the film.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool.

The purpose of this layer is to ensure ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. On even walls, it is recommended to fill slats with a thickness of 20-25 mm every m. Attach the film to these slats. At the top and bottom between the slats, holes with a diameter of about 20 mm should be cut in the film. This technology will not allow moisture to accumulate between wooden wall and vapor barrier film.

A crate is mounted on top of the laid waterproofing film. Before this, you need to measure the width of the thermal insulation plates in centimeters. Subtract 2 from the result obtained. The resulting figure should be remembered. It is at this distance that the slats of the crate will be located.

The installation of the crate begins with fixing the initial rail with self-tapping screws to the very corner of the house. The verticality of its installation is controlled by a level or a plumb line. The next bars are fastened in such a way that mineral wool slabs are very tightly placed between them.

Mineral wool is very easy to install. If necessary, it can be cut with a sharp knife. The insulation boards are attached to the wall with anchors. Through the cotton wool, holes are drilled in the wood of the wall in increments of 50 cm, anchors are hammered into them. The core is driven into the anchor through a layer of cotton wool. He wedges the anchor body and presses the insulation plate against the wall with his wide cap.

After installing all the insulation boards on the wall, a new layer of waterproofing is laid outside this insulation. The rough side of the film is applied to a layer of mineral wool. It is fastened with brackets to the bars of the crate. On top of the film and staples, rails with a section of about 40x50 mm are fastened with self-tapping screws. They will be needed as a crate for finishing walls. For this finish, lining, siding, facade boards and other finishing materials are used. facade materials.

To insulate the walls from the outside is not the end of the work. It is necessary to take into account the fact that when the house is insulated from the outside, the thickness of the walls will increase by 8-20 cm. It is necessary to consider the question of how to close the insulation layer from the window and doorways. Possible options- new architraves and window sills, siding, lining.

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Properly executed insulation of the walls of a wooden structure requires an investment of time, labor and Money. But the result is a large annual savings in heating costs, the service life of the building is significantly extended, living conditions in such a house become more comfortable. To insulate walls is to extend the life of wooden housing.

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How to insulate the walls of a wooden house outside: characteristics of heaters, how to insulate a house with high quality

Wood is considered one of the best insulators, so houses made of such material often do not need additional insulation. However, some owners of wooden buildings believe that the tree may someday begin to deteriorate, and in order to protect their possessions, they insulate them and also clad them. In addition, high-quality thermal insulation can significantly save on electricity consumption, which is consumed by heating devices. Before you start warming the house from the outside, you should decide not only on the order of work, but also on the material that will be used for this.

What material is needed for the insulation of external walls?

How is a wooden house insulated from the outside? For this, the following materials are used:

Mineral wool. This material has good thermal and sound insulation performance, it provides a tight fit and practically does not need additional fixation. In addition, the elasticity and softness of the material allows you to stack it easily and efficiently. Mineral wool is not affected by high temperatures. It also does not allow mold or fungus to spread through its structure, and toxic substances are not used in its creation.
Penoplex (expanded polystyrene). Represents special plate, which is created from expanded polystyrene with a cellular structure. Such material has low thermal conductivity, good strength, long service life, practically does not absorb moisture, and is also resistant to temperature extremes and frost. However, penoplex has a high cost and is easily damaged by rodents. Under the influence of high temperatures, it easily melts and burns.
Styrofoam. It is considered the most popular material used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Its structure is a bit like penoplex, but its cells are of a different size, and it also has a different density and manufacturing method. Such material has good thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture at all and has a low weight. It is easy to install and also has a low price. However, the foam has poor gas and vapor permeability, which is why air does not enter the room.
Polyurethane foam. It is a fairly effective material used to insulate walls outside a wooden house. Its installation is carried out by spraying. Many people prefer polyurethane foam to other heaters for its remarkable qualities and the ability to replace the old layer with a new one only after 30 years. Its foamy structure perfectly protects against frost and dust. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of caustic chemical fumes and even acids. In addition, it does not absorb moisture well, has high environmental friendliness and good fire resistance. However, it is worth protecting it from ultraviolet radiation, which can quickly age the material.

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

The main characteristics that you need to pay attention to when choosing a heater for the walls of a wooden house are the following:

For example, expanded polystyrene has absolutely ideal characteristics, but it has a significant drawback - this is a high degree of flammability and the release of ethylene, which has Negative influence on the human body. And here mineral heaters practically do not burn, have good chemical resistance, hygroscopicity and a high degree of sound insulation.

You should simply strive to carry out high-quality insulation with materials in order to avoid such unfavorable moments as excessive moisture and instability to the effects of rodents, and at the same time increase the positive qualities - fire resistance, strength, reliability.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the technology of insulating the outer walls of a wooden house with such popular materials as mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Before proceeding with the insulation of the house, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. It is best to use material in the form of plates for insulation, since rolls are completely inconvenient. To calculate the required amount of insulation, you should know what thickness it has Basic structure. The natural factor is also important. For example, for wooden walls with a thickness of no more than 20 cm, one layer of mineral wool will suffice, provided that the winter is not too severe. In addition, the following tools and materials must be purchased for the insulation process:

self-tapping screws;
anchors;
special film for waterproofing;
building level;
construction stapler;
plumb.

Then they begin to prepare the surface that will need to be insulated. Due to the fact that it is wooden, it is necessary to treat it with special agents that prevent the formation of fungus. It can be an emulsion or a primer. In order for the antiseptic to dry thoroughly, you should leave it for a while. Outside, the walls must be dry when laying insulation. The joints that are between the boards should also be studied. There should be no damage or cracks.

After that, thermal insulation is carried out. First, a vapor barrier layer is attached. It can be roofing felt, vapor barrier, plastic film or aluminum foil. The vapor barrier layer is necessary for the ventilation of the facade of the house. Vertically narrow slats are stuffed onto the surface, on which a layer of vapor barrier is attached. Small ventilation holes are made at the top and bottom between these slats, which prevent the formation of moisture that adversely affects the wooden walls. To prevent moisture from seeping through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Then the crate is installed. A frame is made for the subsequent installation of a layer of thermal insulation. Boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They should be fastened with the rib part to the wall. The distance between them directly depends on the thickness of the insulation.

Proceed to the installation of thermal insulation material. It should be laid between the installed bars of the crate. If necessary, mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. Installation is carried out, completely excluding all gaps and cracks. Insulation is carried out as follows: the junction line of the first layer of insulation should be at the level of the middle of the slab of the second layer. Mineral wool is an elastic material, so no additional fasteners are required. Then several small holes are made in the insulation. They are required for fasteners and anchors.

Perform waterproofing of the structure. Attach a special bar that retains moisture and does not let air through. It should be overlapped and secured with a construction stapler. To maintain tightness, all joints and openings should be sealed with construction tape. A rail is attached to the waterproofing layer, creating the movement of air flows between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. At the bottom, the free space is closed metal mesh protecting against rodents and insects. After the insulation is completed, the house is sheathed with any finishing material.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with foam plastic

This material is considered the most popular used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Before starting insulation work, make sure that the joints on the wall of the house do not have cracks or holes. Then the boards are vertically mounted on which the foam will be attached. In order for the sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, it is necessary to observe a certain distance between the boards. To do this, you need to add the thickness of the foam and the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame is mounted in this way: the bars with the rib part should be nailed to the middle of the previous ones. The resulting structure must have the same depth as the insulation. Then a layer of thermal insulation is attached. Work starts from the bottom. There must be the correct distance between the bars - this is the key to high-quality fastening of the foam. Check if there are gaps at the joints.

On top of the previous layer, the diffusion membrane should be fixed with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints should be insulated with adhesive tape. After the insulation of the house is completed, it is clad.

Thus, in order to qualitatively insulate a wooden house from the outside, it is necessary to use only environmentally friendly materials that have the appropriate technical characteristics. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the positive and negative sides of each insulation and draw the appropriate conclusions.

kotel.guru

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of work on insulation

Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. At the same time, it is natural and environmentally friendly.

Recently, the construction of wooden houses is becoming more widespread. A room made of such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners do not even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to retain heat. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? This needs to be looked into in more detail.

The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Houses made of wood can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation that gives the greatest effect, because:

saves space inside the house;
this is a great defense bearing walls from natural disasters;
moisture on the walls will never accumulate, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and accordingly the tree will not rot and decay.

Warming the house from the outside requires careful selection required material. It is best to use mineral wool and polystyrene foam for these purposes.

Mineral wool

Most often, do-it-yourself warming of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:

Styrofoam

It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not advise warming a wooden house with it, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to emit ethylene, which is harmful to human body.

Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

To insulate the building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In hardware stores you can buy mineral wool in the following variations:

It is best to use material in slabs for insulation, since rolls are very inconvenient.

Material Quantity Calculation

First, calculate the amount of material needed for insulation. To do this, you need to know how thick the supporting structure has. It is also necessary to take into account the natural conditions. For example, during not too severe winters, the walls of a house 20 cm thick should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.

In addition to the material for insulation, you should purchase anchors, self-tapping screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, building level and a special stapler.

Surface preparation for insulation

Then proceed to the preparation of the surface, which requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special means from the formation of fungus. You can use emulsion or primer. In order for the selected antiseptic to dry thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls should not be wet. Correctly lay the insulation only on a dry surface. There should not be any gaps between the boards. If they nevertheless arose, then the situation is corrected with the help of jute tow or polyurethane foam.

Vapor barrier and batten installation

The next step is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to fix the vapor barrier layer, using polyethylene film, aluminum foil, as well as roofing felt or a vapor barrier. Such a layer is intended to ensure that the facade of the house has ventilation. Narrow slats begin to be vertically stuffed onto a smooth surface, which will subsequently be used to attach the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilation holes are provided between the rails at the bottom and at the top. They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Starting to install the framing. To do this, install a frame that will be used to mount the thermal insulation layer. The thickness of the boards should be 40 mm and the width 100 mm. They are attached to the wall with a rib part. The distance between the bars directly depends on how thick the material for insulation has. Be sure to use the building level, with which they align the position of the boards relative to the vertical level.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Next, proceed to the installation of material for insulation. It is laid between the bars of the crate. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and cracks. A feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which allows you not to use additional fasteners. After that, several holes are made in the insulation at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Then proceed to the waterproofing of the structure. To do this, they attach a special film that can retain moisture and does not allow air to pass through. Lay it with an overlap and fix it with ordinary nails or a construction stapler to the frame. For tightness, all joints and openings are sealed with construction tape. A rail should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. From below, the free space must be closed with a metal mesh so that various insects and rodents do not penetrate inside.

The final stage of warming the house is the cladding of the facade with the necessary finishing material, for example, a block house or siding. The process of installation of the finishing coating is carried out according to the technology.

Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic

Styrofoam is also used to insulate the house with their own hands. Before starting the installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After that, the boards that will be needed to fix the foam are mounted. For tight entry of insulation sheets into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the required distance of the boards from each other. To do this, add up the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame begins to be mounted in this way: the bars are nailed to the middle of the previous ones with the edge part. Then they begin to attach a layer of insulation, this process is best started from the bottom. The correct distance between the bars is the key to good fastening of the material. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. A diffusion membrane is fixed on top of the previous layer with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with adhesive tape. In the end, they carry out the facing of a wooden house.

Usually very good. In most cases, such buildings do not need insulation. However, cracks and gaps often appear in the walls of old chopped and cobbled structures. It is then that the need arises for the isolation of enclosing structures. Of course, this procedure should be performed strictly adhering to certain technologies. In addition, of course, you need to know how best to insulate wooden houses from the outside.

What materials will be needed

In order to perform high-quality insulation of wooden walls, you will need to prepare:

Beam with a section of 50 x 150 mm under the crate. You can use another option. In this case, it all depends on how thick the insulation is chosen. Its plates must be completely recessed into the crate.
Mineral wool is an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate wooden houses from the outside. Plates must be sufficiently rigid. This will negate the risk of slipping in the future.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing films. These materials are necessary to protect the heat insulator from getting wet from the outside and from the inside.
Bars 40 x 40 cm. They will be attached to the waterproofing film.
or lining. These materials are just perfect for upholstery of a wooden house.
Anti-fungal treatment for walls. It is also desirable to purchase a composition that increases the fire resistance of wood.

What tools will be needed

You will also need to prepare:

Hammer for driving nails.
Drill for siding installation.
Knife for cutting waterproofing film.

Insulation of windows and doors

The question is how to insulate a private house, is reduced, among other things, to the isolation of openings. Of course, there should be no gaps between the window frames and the walls. Otherwise, the effect of rather expensive work on the insulation of the building itself will be reduced to zero. If there are gaps, they should be patched up first. concrete mortar. The same applies to the door frame. The canvas itself will also be good to insulate. You can buy a finished door with a built-in insulator. By the way, the same applies to windows. There are always microcracks in old dried-up wooden frames, through which precious heat leaves the house. Therefore, if funds allow, it is worth buying and installing new eurowindows. In this case, you can use a wooden or cheaper PVC “under the tree” profile.

Foundation expansion

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house, we will consider a little lower. First, let's figure out what needs to be done before that. Of course, first of all, you will have to expand the base of the house. The pie of the walls should rest against something from below. Otherwise, the heat insulator will begin to slip. For expansion, reinforcing bars are drilled into the main foundation. Further, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the house. At the bottom of the resulting "trough" sand is poured. Next, a footing 5 cm thick is poured. Reinforcement is installed on it and connected to the rods drilled into the main foundation. Then the filling is done. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed. From above, the new part of the foundation should be waterproofed with two layers of roofing material.

Foundation insulation

In order to make the house as warm as possible, the foundation should be insulated before the walls are insulated. A very good solution would be to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. The material is quite expensive, however, since it retains heat much better than other insulators, it will need much less. For pretty effective insulation a layer of 3 to 10 cm is needed.

Of course, you can use expanded polystyrene for this purpose. However, in this case, it is better to purchase products from trusted manufacturers. For example, the foamed insulation of the Penoplex brand, the price of which is not too high (100-300 rubles), tolerates the effects of aggressive substances dissolved in the soil very well. In addition, he is not at all afraid of moisture. Mineral wool is not recommended for foundation insulation. The fact is that this material absorbs water very easily and at the same time loses its insulating properties.

We isolate the walls: a preliminary stage

So, let's start to figure out how to insulate a private house, or rather, its facades. First of all, all surfaces must be cleaned of dirt. Next, the timber or log is treated with an agent that prevents the appearance of fungus. It is also worth smearing them with compounds that increase fire resistance and destroy insects. Further, all existing slots and grooves are sealed with tow. Caulking should be done in dry weather. Instead of tow, you can use jute or hemp. These materials are pushed into the slots with the help of special tool- caulks. After that, you can proceed to the actual work on assembling the wall cake.

What you need to know about thermal insulation

How to insulate wooden houses from the outside, you already know. Why exactly basalt wool? This material is considered the best choice because polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even with ventilation gaps under these materials, it accumulates a lot. As a result, the cake loses some of its thermal insulation properties, and the log or timber begins to rot.

Not suitable for cladding wooden walls, even high-quality foam insulation. For example, the same "Penoplex". The price of mineral wool is lower than for it. And therefore, the owners of the house in any case do not lose anything. Glass wool can be used instead of basalt.

Vapor barrier device

Previously, the walls are covered with a material that prevents the penetration of moisture from the inside of the house into the insulation. As a vapor barrier, you can use a plastic film or some other more modern analogue. In the event that the walls are thick and assembled from logs, the material can be fixed directly on them. Between the crowns in this case there will be enough for effective ventilation free space. If they are knocked down from boards or made of timber, it will be necessary to arrange an additional gap for ventilation. In this case, the film is stretched onto thin slats previously fixed to the wall.

Lathing installation

So, now you know the answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a wooden house. Mineral wool slabs are attached to the walls in it is often fixed horizontally. Lining and block house are usually mounted on a vertical frame. The bars are attached to screws or nails. The step between them should be equal to the width of the mineral wool boards. Sometimes the distance between the purlins is made a little smaller. In this case, the plates can be installed by surprise. The beam must be treated with anti-rotten and fire-resistant agents.

Plate installation

So, how to insulate wooden houses from the outside, we found out. How to properly install the plates? The insulation is mounted on top of the vapor barrier film between the beams of the assembled crate. Unfortunately, they are often a bit uneven. Therefore, gaps may form between the plates and the crate in some places. It is allowed to seal them with materials such as basaltin, jute or lnovatin. In order to prevent the plates from falling out and sliding, it is worth additionally fixing them with special plastic dowels with wide caps. If the crate is mounted vertically, sheathe the walls with cotton wool starting from any corner. If the bars are horizontal, the installation is carried out from the bottom up.

Usually, insulation is carried out using a material 5 cm thick. In this case, the installation is carried out in two layers. In this case, the joints of the second are placed above the center of the plates of the first. From below, the cake will need to be covered with a metal mesh so that mice and insects do not penetrate into it.

Installation of waterproofing film

So, the best insulation for a wooden house is mineral wool. What material should be chosen for the waterproofing device? In this case, it is worth using a special superdiffusion membrane. This material will protect the walls not only from rain, but also from wind. For wooden houses it is allowed to use with a vapor permeability of at least 1400 g per m 3.

The film is attached directly to the crate using 40 x 40 mm blocks. This will allow you to arrange a ventilation layer between it and fine finish. Lay the film perpendicular to the location of the purlins. The overlap between the individual strips should be about 10 cm. Sometimes the joints are additionally glued with construction tape.

Installation of lining

The finishing material is attached to the counter-lattice obtained after the installation of the waterproofing agent. There are only two main ways to fix the lining: with nails and special clamps. The first method can be considered the simplest. However, in terms of aesthetics, such a skin that is made in two other ways loses a lot. After all, the caps of carnations in any case will be clearly visible.

Therefore, the lining is often fixed to the crate with clamps. These fasteners are first put on the lamella groove shelf, and then on the beam. In this way, you can make a very beautiful coating. In the same way, a block house is attached to the crate.

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the outside

In this case, a wire is first attached to the rafters on the reverse side, and behind it from the inside, further insulation boards are installed from the outside. It is mounted above it. It is attached to the bars. Next, the crate is mounted. The step between its elements depends on the variety roofing material. Under the roofing material and soft tiles a complete crate is arranged. Under the profile, a sparse one is mounted with a distance between the elements of 30-50 cm.

Thus, we have figured out how to insulate an old wooden house. As you can see, the procedure is not particularly complicated. The most important thing is to follow the order of work and not violate the technology. In this case, the wooden building will turn out to be warm and cozy, and the ventilated facade and roof will last a long time.

In most cases, rural residents are interested in warming wooden houses, where half of the houses are built of wood. In order for the house to be warm, it is comfortable to insulate it from the outside, while maintaining the internal dimensions of the rooms. But not everyone knows how to properly insulate a house, what insulation materials to use. This article provides information on the technology of insulation of wooden houses from the outside, various insulation materials that are used to insulate wooden houses, their advantages and disadvantages.

Features of warming wooden houses

The wood from which the house is built evaporates moisture. Therefore, when carrying out work on the insulation of wooden houses from the outside, it is necessary provide ventilation walls in order to avoid covering the wood with mold, fungus. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside helps to protect it from exposure to low temperatures, condensation. Before warming up the house lay the vapor barrier and install the frame.

It is mounted vertically from dry wooden slats or a metal profile. The rail height should match the thickness insulation, and the installation step of the rails by 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation, so that insulation material fit tightly into the frame and did not form cracks. For fixing thermal insulation material construction staples or nails. A windproof film is attached over the insulation, which has the properties of releasing moisture from the walls and does not let moisture in from the outside. the last stage involves wall cladding.

wooden house outside: 1 - insulated wooden wall; 2 - layer of vapor barrier; 3 - insulating material; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - facing material.

If a wooden house is faced with brick, stone slabs must provide holes, so that air enters the ventilation space.

When choosing a material as a heater for a wooden house, it is necessary know their properties which play an important role.

Varieties of materials for external insulation

To insulate a wooden house from the outside, the industry produces many artificial and natural insulating materials. Artificial materials have strength properties, reliability, but at the same time they do not allow air to pass through, which leads to the accumulation of moisture inside the wooden walls, thereby destroying them. When using artificial insulation, it is necessary to make a good vapor barrier and ventilation of the house. Consider some types of heaters that are used to insulate the outside of a wooden house.

It is a fibrous heat-insulating material on a synthetic basis. Contains formaldehyde adhesive.

Advantages:

has a high temperature threshold;
does not melt or burn.

Flaws:

does not protect the tree from mold;
releases toxic substances at high temperatures.

glass wool- a kind of mineral wool, which contains components such as quartz sand, recycled glass.

Advantages:

has strength;
does not burn.

Flaws:

melts at high temperature;
releases toxic substances;
encourages fungal growth.

This insulation has a cellular structure and is made of expanded polystyrene.

Advantages:

Flaws:

easily destroyed when exposed to solvents;
difficulty in fitting and cutting;
vapor tightness is often a disadvantage rather than an advantage.

Styrofoam- insulation consists of a large number of balls filled with air.

Advantages:

excellent sound insulation;
ease of installation;
withstands temperature changes;
density;
not subject to swelling and decay;
durability.

Flaws:

low vapor permeability;
not fire resistant;
is not environmentally friendly.

Ecowool- modern insulation material, made of 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptic, a substance that protects it from rodents, mold. They can insulate any room.

Advantages:

reliability;
inedible for rodents;
prevents the formation of mold and fungi.
low thermal conductivity;
environmentally friendly.

Flaws:

installation requires special equipment;
undergoes shrinkage;
smolders when exposed to high temperatures.

There are other thermal insulation materials that can be insulated wooden houses outside.

The procedure for warming the house with mineral wool

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool, subject to the laying technology, you can perform on your own.

Before starting work on warming the house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces of the walls: clean them from dust, various contaminants and treat them with an antiseptic.

The procedure for warming the outside of the house with mineral wool involves five stages:

Stage one is vapor barrier installation, which provides ventilation and prevents rotting of the house. For vapor barrier use a special film, roofing material or aluminum foil. It is impossible to lay vapor barrier material directly on the wall, so as not to expose the walls to fungus or mold. To do this, it is necessary to leave between the wall and the vapor barrier material ventilation space.
Stage two - provides wood frame manufacturing for insulating material. The frame is made from wooden slats, which are mounted vertically to the wall and should be 1-2 cm smaller than the size of the mineral wool slab.
The third stage is laying a layer of insulation. Warming with mineral wool is recommended to be laid in two layers so that the joint of the first layer lies in the middle of the second. No cracks are allowed. For reliability, the insulation is fixed with metal or plastic anchors.
Stage four consists of waterproofing, which prevents water ingress for insulation and walls.
And the final fifth stage - house cladding outside. Sheathing material is attached to wooden crate, made of a 4 × 5 cm bar. Thanks to new modern technologies There is a wide range of exterior coatings on the market that will give the house an aesthetic look.

Styrofoam insulation technology

To insulate a wooden house with polystyrene foam, you will need:

Before warming the house, first of all, check joints between logs or beams. If the insulating material does not fit snugly, it must be laid again. Then attached to the walls vertically boards so that the distance between the centers corresponds to the width of the foam board. To do this, it is necessary to accurately maintain the fastening step of the boards, which will be equal to H + S-5. H - means the thickness of the board; S is the width of the foam sheet; 5 mm - the value that provides the tightness of the foam during installation. Main so that all boards are in the same vertical plane.

Further, they nail into the fixed boards in the center wooden slats, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the foam board, and the mounting distance of the rails should be 0.5 cm less than the width of the foam sheet.

Styrofoam slabs stacked from below and fit tightly into the frame without the formation of cracks. If the plates are not laid tightly, they are fixed with foam wedges or nails.

After laying the foam horizontal stripes fits top to bottom diffusion membrane, which overlaps the foam joints by 10-15 mm. The membrane is attached with a stapler to the frame, and the joints are glued with ordinary adhesive tape. When laying waterproofing material read the instructions for its use.

Then comes the final stage - house cladding facing material. Facing material can be whatever you choose.

Insulation with polystyrene (foam)

When insulating a wooden house from the outside with foam, it is necessary to follow the technology. Between the foam and the wall should be ventilation space. Like other heaters, it cannot be mounted directly on the walls to prevent rotting of the wooden walls. They start warming the outside with foam plastic of a wooden house with the installation of a wooden crate.

The crate is made of slats with a section of 50 × 50 mm. Then the foam boards are laid in the crate. If the house is built of timber, then wooden slats with a section of 30 × 40 mm are laid between the foam and the wall to ensure ventilation. The log walls of the house do not require the laying of slats, as the irregularities between the logs will serve as a ventilation space. Completes the insulation from the outside with foam plastic of a wooden house - siding lining, brick or other facing materials.

Insulation of a wooden house for siding

In order to sheathe a wooden house with siding with insulation, it is first necessary to prepare the surface of the walls. Should follow the instructions. To begin with, ebbs, platbands, window sills and other existing elements that will interfere with the installation of the frame are removed. All cracks fill with tow or special sealants, and also level the surface.

Walls are treated moisture protective agent and fire-retardant primer with their subsequent drying. Facing the house with siding is carried out at any time of the year, provided that the air temperature should not be below 10ºС, since siding crumbles in the cold when cutting.

To work, you will need the following tools:

saw blade with fine teeth;
square;
metal scissors;
hammer;
building level;
screwdriver;
roulette;
ladder;
Bulgarian.

The technology of facing a wooden house with siding, except for panels, provides for the use such elements:

starting rail - mounted under the first row of panels;
J-panel - necessary when installing spotlights and for edging vertical sections;
H-profile - used to connect panels;
wind panel - mounted on the ends of the roof to protect them from the wind;
domestic and outside corners- used for sheathing the corners of the house;
platbands and ebbs - used for decorative design windows and doorways.

The technology of warming a wooden house and siding is not complicated:

a vapor barrier film is attached;
heat-insulating material is laid in a wooden crate;
cover the thermal insulation with a windproof film;
installing panels.

Before sheathing a house with siding with insulation, you need to conduct a vapor barrier which we fix on thin rails with a section of 30 × 20 mm. The vapor barrier film cannot be fixed directly on the walls. Further produced framing installation. It is made from dry wooden slats, which are treated with an antiseptic. Reiki are placed in increments of 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation plate, their thickness depends on the insulation material. Then they are placed in the crate thermal insulation material, which is covered with a windproof film. After the completion of thermal and waterproofing, they begin to fasten the rails on which the panels will be mounted. The slats are placed after 30-40 cm.

Sheathing the house with siding is carried out in the following order. Panel mounting start with the installation of drainage, which protects the foundation base from water and snow. Install the drainage strictly according to the level, since the quality of the installation of the panels themselves depends on it. On top of it, a starting rail is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are twisted in such a way that between the cap and the mounting plate there is a gap of 1 mm.

The first panel is applied to the starting rail and snapped into the lock until it clicks. The panel is fixed by screwing it with self-tapping screws in the center of the holes to the crate. And so on, carry out the installation of panels. After sheathing the walls with siding, they begin to install its additional elements. They mount internal and external corners, trim windows and doors with J-slats or platbands, fix them under the roof finishing strips. From below, a special perforated bar is attached to the visors, into which spotlights are inserted.

We have provided information on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, what heaters are used. From this information, it can be concluded that proper insulation Houses will give it a comfortable microclimate, reliably protect it from the effects of precipitation, and since the insulation of a wooden house from the outside provides for surface cladding, thanks to it the house will have aesthetic appearance.

04.09.2016 0 comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the expediency of warming, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Warming a wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust inside the room;
there is no need to rearrange the furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to ennoble, transform the appearance of the building.

Note! Improper performance of work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay. wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite the constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently gained a foothold on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed consideration of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
the material has a high melting point, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro and vapor barriers are required.

When choosing mineral wool as a heater, consider the following tips:

Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with a call to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as a heater

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using foam. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foam balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

ease and convenience of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, a sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by trimming. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
To process gaps at the joints of polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not properly organized, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the structure wall and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of polystyrene. It is also a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene balls, but technical specifications exceeds its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
enjoy a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
The need for high-quality UV protection sun rays. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to foam.

Note! Required condition foam insulation - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now consider how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Close gaps, holes and cracks in the wall mounting foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remnants with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a crate of wooden slats. The step between the slats should be 1 m. The crate should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture drops on the tree, followed by decay, damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fix the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with adhesive tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. A heater will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, in order to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the laths should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
Using the building level, monitor the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is the laying of a layer of hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with adhesive tape for tightness.
The final stage is the installation of decorative trim on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often cross the century boundary. But sooner or later, the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house from the outside becomes a necessary measure, since, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold enters the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and it will pay off in the first winter.

Having spent the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But before you buy the material and get to work, you need to find out which of modern heaters better fit for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulating wooden buildings from the outside are expanded polystyrene in panels and mineral wool of various types, made in the form of mats or rolls. But, besides them, in recent years, sprayed insulation compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish, have been increasingly used.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics, makes it possible to significantly save on heating.

Produce polystyrene panels different thickness, size 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, density from 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulating outdoor work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg /m³ and thickness from 50mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density expanded polystyrene is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has a low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees the long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fix on the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet, and almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam has its own significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength - the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and a decorative coating;
ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances dangerous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-combustible, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for warming wooden buildings.
if you plan to fix the boards with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with polystyrene foam, as some substances destroy this material.

Styrofoam rating for facade

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 10 pcs;
dimensions 100×120 cm;
thickness 100 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.2 m²;
area in the package 12 m²;
applied
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W/(m⋅K).

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 7 pcs;
dimensions 118×60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 4.9 m²;
for internal and external works;
grooved plate;
minimum operating temperature -50 °C;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C.

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristics:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in a package 8 pcs;
dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 5.6 m²;
for internal and external works;
scope: for a floor, for walls, for overlappings, for a roof;
grooved plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in a package 8 pcs;
dimensions 240×60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.4 m²;
area in the package 11.2 m²;
for external works;
scope: for a floor, for a roof;
grooved plate;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity per pack 20 pcs;
dimensions 120×60 cm;
thickness 20 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 14 m²;
for internal and external works;
minimum operating temperature -70 °C;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the crate or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built of timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it's easier to get by with glue.

Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out in various ways - this is plugging cracks with tow treated with lime or sealing modern materials such as sealant or construction foam.
After that wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
When the antiseptic dries, you can proceed with the installation of insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
Installation of insulation begins at the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

The slabs are smeared with a solution of special building glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

After removing the first row, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with the help of “fungi” fasteners. Each plate must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. Fasteners should have a leg length several centimeters longer than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" must be chosen with a leg of 100 mm. When clogging, the cap should enter the styrofoam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the mount - "fungus"

When all the insulation is installed, you can begin to reinforce the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass sickle mesh.

At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a grid fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the adhesive mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they pass it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall must be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to fix the lining. But on plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions, how to, from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Why you should insulate your home

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it has been tested by time, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers fastened together special formulations. Three different types mineral wool, and they differ in the basic material of manufacture - this stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - this is moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

slag wool

This material is made from blast-furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing a heater for the facade, this option should be immediately abandoned, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture on it can lead to mold inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then an oxidative reaction can occur, since slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass mass, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it has a small weight and good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, packages do not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the bars of the crate.

The disadvantage is that during its installation it is necessary to carefully protect the eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on the tissues, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Due to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool - the material is practically without flaws

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose the material of the brand PZH-175 - this is a rigid plate, or PZH-200, which means increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Installation of a mineral wool insulation layer is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which a slab or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve the best effect of insulation and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose - the owner of the house decides, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the battens of the crate, between them, starting from the bottom row, insulation mats are laid. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that roll material is used, laying starts from the top, securing the upper edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fixing elements will be installed later.
Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with brackets. Sometimes it is laid only on a heater, but the first option is preferable.

Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed with “fungi” to the wall.
Fastened over the crate decorative trim- it can be siding or lining. The rules for the installation of such a finish are considered separately, in other publications.

A decorative coating is mounted on top of the crate - siding, block house or other materials

If the crate is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It happens otherwise - with two layers of insulation. First, the first crate is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, the second crate is mounted along the bars, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid heaters that are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such a heater, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures for many years.

Modern method of thermal insulation - polyurethane foam spraying

However, this spraying method is rarely used, as it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. Nevertheless, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influence.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

excellent adhesion during application;
lack of fasteners;
the material penetrates into all small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from entering the building;
compatibility with any materials;
the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
the coating does not require repair and renewal for many years;
mold does not appear on it and rodents do not damage it.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed onto its surface, with what thickness it is planned to arrange a spray layer - this will become a kind of beacon. Protruding frozen sections of the foam will be cut off along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master with the help of a pneumatic gun sprays the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. Setting and the beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve desired effects heat and sound insulation, the coating should be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For application outside, we use "Ecothermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane on wooden walls from the inside of the house. The process of spraying from the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is ecowool spraying.

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When applying the material to the surface, it fills all the holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, which do not allow any forms of biological life to breed in its thickness.

important positive quality ecowool for a wooden building is his heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the right size is fixed on it - it will regulate the thickness of the spray. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that not completely frozen material does not slide out from under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on the walls, a special installation is required, in the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and through a special pressure gun it is applied to the surface. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic features of the region of residence.

Knowing the right thickness of insulation is important. An excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow you to create comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is, What total resistance to heat transfer of a sandwich wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a particular climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on the map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also interior decoration(if it is and whether it is planned, a layer of thermal insulation and exterior finish of the facade (important - the exterior finish, made according to the principle of a ventilated facade, is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (beam or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) can be somewhat smaller than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to this when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the rooms are left unsheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - A layer of thermal insulation - it is precisely its thickness that must be determined.

The design may have several layers. So, if a sheathing is provided outside without a ventilated gap, close to the thaw material (for example, using a natural board or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor-permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - frame details ( battens).

6 - siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Here is such a finish, as already mentioned, no matter what material it would be made of, it will not make any tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, it is required to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn = Hn / λn

hn is the thickness of a particular layer.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

Well- the thickness of the insulation.
λy- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find coefficients for various materials it is easy in the reference literature - a lot of it is posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.

The better to insulate an old wooden house from the outside. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside so that it breathes. The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside: choose the material

log houses

Material selection

How to insulate wooden houses?

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Stages of wall insulation

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house outside: characteristics of heaters, how to insulate a house with high quality

What material is needed for the insulation of external walls?

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with foam plastic

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of work on insulation

The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Mineral wool

Styrofoam

Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

Material Quantity Calculation

Surface preparation for insulation

Vapor barrier and batten installation

Installation of thermal insulation material

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic

What materials will be needed

What tools will be needed

Insulation of windows and doors

Foundation expansion

Foundation insulation

We isolate the walls: a preliminary stage

What you need to know about thermal insulation

Vapor barrier device

Lathing installation

Plate installation

Installation of waterproofing film

Installation of lining

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the outside

Features of warming wooden houses

Varieties of materials for external insulation

The procedure for warming the house with mineral wool

Styrofoam insulation technology

Insulation with polystyrene (foam)

Insulation of a wooden house for siding

Insulation options

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Styrofoam as a heater

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Log house insulation technology outside

Styrofoam

Styrofoam rating for facade

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Sprayed heaters

polyurethane foam

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

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