Wall insulation during the construction of a private house. Self-insulation of the house outside - some of the most effective ways. Warming the house with thermal panels, or How to turn a hut into a palace

For owners of country houses and especially country houses with year-round living, ensuring a constant comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how effective various systems heating, the main factor is always the ability of house structures to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to walls that have the largest surface area of ​​the house and, accordingly, give out the maximum heat loss of the building. The simplest and most effective method in terms of results is the insulation of walls from the outside. What materials for insulating the walls of the house are the most effective, as well as learn about the technology for performing such work, you can by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that the external insulation of the walls of the house is a very important stage of construction work:

• Reduce heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
• Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even quality construction houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of saving heat inside them. There are always invisible gaps between rows of logs or wooden beam, heterogeneity and voids in brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints in panel and monolithic housing construction.

All the shortcomings of the walls can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat losses during heating of buildings and develop solutions to eliminate them.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss are various ways of external insulation of the walls of a private house:

• Plaster with various fillers.
• Wall cladding with lumber.
• External single-row masonry with brick or stone for wooden buildings with filling the resulting gap with heat-insulating materials.
• Facing with sheet materials () using insulation.
• The use of modern hinged facades.

Sometimes the insulation of the walls of a private house with their own hands is also performed from the inside of the premises using sheet or rolled heat-insulating materials, cladding, cladding with a gypsum-fiber sheet,.

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention when they are used due to the multilayer structure (hydro, sound and heat insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that conduct heat poorly.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

1. Placement of insulation elements inside the wall. Perhaps at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the building. Most often requires design solutions to ensure bearing capacity, constructive and thermal calculation.
2. From inside the premises. This type insulation reduces the area and volume of the room, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work under cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
3. Outside the wall. This method is usually not limited by space for work, delivery and storage. necessary materials, scaffolding devices and use lifting mechanisms. Depending on the materials used for insulation and finishing, it is possible to perform work at almost any time of the year.

• Important! With external insulation of the walls of the house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference outside and inside the building does not occur inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of sweating and the inevitable formation of fungus when the walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside the structures. For reliable protection walls outside the house from exposure external factors, it will not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, along the way you will solve at least two more problems - improving sound insulation and appearance building, which is often just as important to the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and a variety of facing materials of various textures and colors can protect the walls from external influences and radically change the look of the house.

This method of insulation with optimal investment will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important given the cost of heating at ever-increasing prices for any energy carriers: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of the house with the help of liquid polyurethane foam. To do this, using special equipment, it is pumped through external holes into air layer between the wall of the house and inner lining premises.

Wall materials and methods of their insulation

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings, various materials and prefabricated structures, and different ways and masonry, assembly and fastening methods, binders and fasteners. The physical properties of these substances and materials directly shape the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, blocks of cement mixture with a variety of fillers, prefabricated puff wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. Factory building structures made of reinforced concrete have the worst thermal insulation properties, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations. technological process at all stages of the construction of buildings from it. This also applies to precast concrete buildings. All this is important for right choice material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for the construction and insulation of the walls of the house

Material name	Density	Thermal Conductivity Coefficient (W/m*K)
concrete block	2100-2200	0,8-1,74
Brick (red)	1700-1900	0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce)	450-550	0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete	900-1100	0,25-0,39
mineral wool	50-100-200	0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam	30	0,04
Styrofoam	100-125-150	0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU)	50	0,033

The main task of the external insulation of the house is to protect the building structures of the wall from contact with too hot or cold outside air and precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional sheathing with planed boards, clapboard to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

wall facade

Sheathing and cladding of the outer walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing material, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheet, various kinds siding with laying of mats from mineral wool or foam sheets - the most common method of external insulation.

No less common and still in use today decorative plaster various mixtures with subsequent surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repair of the coating, which is quickly destroyed by temperature extremes and precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation by this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more air closed cells in it), the the best properties for warming it has.

The most popular and used types of thermal insulation of walls today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats. different sizes, expanded polystyrene sheet, more often called foam plastic, fiberglass materials.

More rare are foil polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions that foam in the volume to be filled, organosilicon heat-resistant paints, cellulose insulation called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

On top of the layers of insulation and waterproofing, walls are lined with sheet and tile materials:

professional sheet;
Siding;
Hanging facades.

Good to know! Profiled sheet and siding are the most sold and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation between them and the wall of the building from all external influences.

outside wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings from the outside, several methods and technological methods are used:

1. Fastening heat-insulating materials to the facade with glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and a finishing coat. This method is called a wet facade.
2. Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as the first method. Then a wall is erected with an air gap in one brick from a facing or ordinary brick, followed by painting.
3. Fastening alternately the waterproofing layer, insulation, wind protection. On the frame from the mounting metal profile or a wooden bar, decorative sheathing made of profiled sheet, siding, ceramic tiles is fixed.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

• Type and height of the building;
• Material and wall area;
• Degrees of freezing and heat loss;
• Funding allocated for these works.

Do-it-yourself insulate the walls of a summer cottage or country house the owner with family members and friends can do it, but the insulation of a multi-storey building should be entrusted to a specialized construction organization.

The best option for performing work on external insulation:

It is better to carry out the whole range of works when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications of building materials and fasteners. You can make them yourself or order documentation from specialists. construction organization involved in building insulation.

This approach will save you from a lot of problems: the choice of a suitable certified material, its delivery, installation work, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his abilities and building skills, then he can choose the most acceptable method from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house on his own. So you can not only save money, but also enjoy the result.

Surely the residents of apartment buildings are a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, clean air - everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home to avoid freezing. This implies impressive investments and constant monitoring of the condition of the heat-insulating material, from which residents of city houses are exempted.

Warming your home is preferable to using a dozen heaters - you can save money and make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways of thermal insulation of a private building - from the outside and from the inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but it is primarily worth taking care of external insulation. About what material is best suited for certain houses - further.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent insulation in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

• thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or retain air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
• moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation);
• density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will make the house heavier);
• resistance to fire (there are 4 classes of flammability; the first one (G1) is most preferable, which stops burning without open source fire);
• environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, it is worth choosing only natural material from natural components that do not emit impurities into the atmosphere and do not contain synthetic elements);
• durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
• hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
• resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
• soundproofing properties;
• ease of installation (insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; a minimum amount of additional work like cutting into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that would have all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of warming a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of a building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time not having decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the benefits of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

• reduced wall deformability due to additional protection;
• the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the building will be extended;
• freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
• the area of ​​​​the interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of decoration, and living conditions will remain the same.

Ways of external insulation of the house

The need and benefits of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three of these:

• "well" arrangement of the material;
• "wet" insulation with gluing;
• ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between layers of bricks). It turns out that it is "locked" between two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, the insulation layer is fixed to the glue on the outside of the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). Good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; Do-it-yourself wet wall insulation is impossible without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a “well” masonry, only the outer layer is the facing material - drywall, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for attaching heat insulator sheets.

The last method is the most popular, common and profitable. It will cost much less than "wet" insulation; in addition, even a beginner will be able to do the work with their own hands. Now the consumer faces the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (of natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic heaters

The first place in the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0.045);
• density variations (from 20 to 200 kg/m3);
• excellent soundproofing properties;
• vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
• fire resistance.

It is not without a number of disadvantages, including:

• attraction for rodents and insectoids;
• deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume is wet;
• never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house from the outside.

The second known external insulation is foam. Its advantages:

• the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
• costs less than other heaters;
• easy;
• density from 11 to 40 kg/m3.

• fragility;
• release of toxic substances during fire;
• does not "breathe", which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
• when directly wet, it absorbs moisture, becoming unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and polystyrene. In addition, he:

• does not absorb moisture;
• convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
• stronger than foam
• almost does not pass air.

Flaws:

• flammable;
• when burned, it releases harmful substances.

There is another type of raw material used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of balls (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). "Breathe", isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid sun rays, are easily repairable. Not very common on the market, however, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel as close to nature as possible, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

• cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed tree bark, compressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
• cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with flame retardants to improve fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
• hemp - supplied in plates, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load well, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
• straw - the old fashioned way thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; today it is practically not used;
• algae - an exotic method of sheathing exterior walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and fungus. Best suited for light walls.

Preferred insulation for home cladding

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the information presented above, it is possible to compile a symbolic rating of the most quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferred, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems better fit cotton wool - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, give preference to a material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plaster wall decoration goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, PPS, polystyrene, any organic material.

For light walls wooden house breathable material is better - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The former is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be of high quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of the previously discussed, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the acquisition of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

General provisions.

The point of insulation is not only to increase comfort in the house, but also to reduce heating costs. Therefore, it is worth choosing an economically viable way to save heat. Special interactive calculators make it possible to calculate the heat loss of a house before and after its insulation.

When it comes to insulation, there are two things to keep in mind. important rules. Firstly, it is better to place the insulation outside the walls. With such a scheme, the walls will accumulate heat in themselves and give it inside the room when the heating is turned off. At the same time, the microclimate in the rooms will not fluctuate very sharply when the weather and heating and ventilation modes change. If the insulation is located from the inside, then the walls will freeze through every winter, which will lead to a decrease in the service life of the entire building.

But this rule is true for houses permanent residence, as well as to country houses regularly visited in winter. With rare races, you will have to warm up the entire thickness of the walls of the house, which will increase heating costs.

Secondly, it is important to design the "pie" of enclosing structures in such a way that moisture does not accumulate in it. Condensation leads to the appearance of mold that is harmful to health, building structures begin to collapse, and the thermal properties of most heaters deteriorate.

We start warming from above

The attic floor is an outpost in the battle to keep your home warm and lower your heating bills. After all, it is known that warm air rises, and if the ceiling is cold, the cooling of the air will be intense. Signs of insufficient ceiling insulation may be thawed patches on a snow-covered roof, large icicles on overhangs on the north side of the roof. The presence of condensation on the structures of the attic is already a clear distress signal.

How to insulate the ceiling wooden beams? First you need to remove the old insulation and dry all the structures. It may be necessary to clean them of mold and treat them with bioprotective compounds. Then you need to lay the vapor barrier film. It is better to hem it below the beams, on the draft ceiling. But if this is not possible, then you can cover the ceiling with it from above. As a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary thick plastic film, but it is better to buy a special one - it is not much more expensive, but stronger and more convenient to use. The vapor barrier layer must be sealed. Butyl rubber adhesive tape is used to glue the film sheets or, in extreme cases, you can get by with metallized adhesive tape, which is somewhat cheaper. The edges of adjacent sheets of film are glued together with an overlap, and the edges of the extreme ones are glued to the walls.

Now you need to lay the heater. Choice modern heaters very large, but you can use traditional materials. For example, the cheapest option would be dry sawdust, sprinkled with a layer of 25-30 cm. To protect against mold and mice, they are mixed with lime.

Of the heaters produced by the industry, the most inexpensive option It's probably cellulose wool. It is made from waste paper with the addition of borax and boric acid. Thanks to these chemicals, cellulose becomes slightly combustible and resistant to decay. Usually this insulation, also known as "ecowool", is applied using blowing machines. In order not to call a team of specialists for this, some craftsmen adapt garden vacuum cleaners to apply ecowool.

But the ceiling can also be insulated manually. To do this, it is enough to pour the cotton wool out of the bag in small portions and fluff it with a conventional electric drill with a mixer nozzle. The main thing is to stock up on a respirator, because there will be a lot of dust. For the Moscow region, the thickness of the layer of cotton wool over the floors should be approximately 25 cm. The manufacturers of this material advise increasing the thickness of the layer along the perimeter of the attic in order to protect the upper part of the wall from freezing.

The advantage of backfill heaters is that they can be used on ceilings of any design and with any distance between the beams. Comparable in price to cellulose insulation - glass wool. But it is produced in rolls or mats of a certain width and requires an appropriate distance between the beams. This drawback has a more expensive analogue - basalt wool.

But on a smooth concrete floor, you can use any of these heaters. You just need to remember to put a vapor barrier under it.

Is it worth it to cover the insulation from above? Usually this is not necessary. In addition, open insulation dries better after accidentally getting wet. However, if necessary, the insulation can be covered with a superdiffusion membrane, which will allow the wool to dry out, protect it from accidentally spilled water and from blowing out.

Floor insulation

The wooden floor is insulated in the same way as the attic - either with bulk or cotton wool insulation. Only the vapor barrier here needs to be laid on top, from the side of the room, under the floor. From below, from the side of the underground, the insulated ceiling should be hemmed with a superdiffusion membrane. For such a design, it is very important that the underground is dry and well ventilated. If the air left in the basement is not enough for this, then it is necessary to increase ventilation, for example, remove the pipe from the underground to the roof. As a last resort, you can try to ventilation pipe from one of the products and fix it on the wall at a height of two to three meters. From above you need to install a bell, which will direct the air flow away from the facade.

To reduce the likelihood of moisture in the underground, you need to cover the soil under the house with plastic wrap or roofing material.

The concrete floor of the foundation can be insulated without dismantling the floors. It is enough to glue polystyrene (usually polystyrene boards) 10-20 cm thick from the bottom of the ceiling. There are cement-based adhesives for such work (they are designed for the “wet facade” system, but they are quite suitable here). Before starting work, you need to thoroughly clean and prime the concrete surface of the floor.

Instead of expanded polystyrene, you can use basalt wool with a density of 80 kg / m 3, and strengthen the fastening to glue with the help of dish-shaped dowels.

House wall insulation

Works on external wall insulation willy-nilly will be associated with the renovation of the facade. The insulation can be covered with a hinged facade ( vinyl siding or grooved board) or plastered (the so-called "wet facade"). In building " wet facade» There are a lot of subtleties that are difficult to take into account if you get down to business for the first time. So for independent work it is better to use hinged facades.

The most popular insulation under the hinged facade is basalt wool. It is ideal for insulating houses made of timber, as it does not support combustion. High-quality basalt wool can get wet and dry several times without losing its properties. But still, it is better to keep it dry - wet cotton wool conducts heat well and ceases to function as a heater.

Sometimes, polystyrene foam plates are also attached under the hinged facade. But in this case, there is a risk that condensate will accumulate under them. It is better to use this insulation on walls made of silicate brick or concrete - materials with high thermal conductivity and low vapor permeability. The advantage of expanded polystyrene is that it is not afraid of getting wet, its fire-resistant types do not support combustion.

Ecowool is also used under hinged facades. In this case, it is applied using blowing machines with the "wet-glue method" - before application, it is moistened and mixed with glue. This mass adheres to the wall and, after drying, forms a seamless “fur coat”. This method is perhaps the most reliable for insulating a log house or uneven brick walls.

The use of all types of cotton wool insulation on the facade requires a ventilated gap. The wool is covered with a superdiffusion membrane, and a gap of about 3 cm must be left between the membrane and the outer skin, which is set by the thickness of the crate.

Insulation of the house from the inside.

There are cases when the choice of insulation and methods of its installation is limited. For example, if you need to insulate the walls in an apartment on the ninth floor. Here you will need heaters that do not allow water vapor to pass through and do not accumulate moisture. The choice is small. These are foam glass blocks, extruded polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam.

Foam glass can be plastered - you get a strong and warm wall. Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) has a glossy surface and does not adhere well to the wall with cement adhesive. If the plaster on the wall is even, then it is better to use not cement glue, but glue-foam (similar in composition and packaging to ordinary mounting foam). It will provide a tighter fit of the insulation to the wall and a connection more resistant to deformation. All seams between the insulation boards must be sealed with polyurethane foam. There are special adhesives for this material.

From above, EPPS can be plastered or covered with plasterboard sheathing.

The most affordable insulation for indoor use is polyethylene foam and its variety - foil PPE. The latter is practically indispensable for the insulation of walls and ceilings of temporary and technical structures (construction cabins, unheated attics, boiler rooms) heated by infrared heaters. Radiant heat is not absorbed by the walls, but is returned back to the room. In addition, the foil plays the role of a vapor barrier, which is especially important for wet rooms in frame and wooden buildings.

House insulation - drawings-schemes:

Figures - numbering from left to right

Rice. 1. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE ATTIC FLOOR:

2 - bulk insulation (the layer thickness is increased along the perimeter of the ceiling);

3 - additional insulation with expanded polystyrene in the Mauerlat zone;

4 - vapor barrier film from the side of the room;

5 - rough ceiling lining (OSB, plywood, etc.).

Rice. 2. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE FOUNDATION COVERING:

1 - foundation; 2 - wall; 3 - concrete floor; 4 - blind area; 5 - insulation of the basement from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam (the insulation can be plastered); 6 - it is recommended to cover the soil surface under the house with roofing material; 7 - mineral wool insulation is mounted to the ceiling with cement glue, the fastening is reinforced with dish-shaped dowels.

Rice. 3. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE WALL WITH POLYSTYRENE FOAM UNDER THE HINGED FACADE:

1 - wall made of material with low vapor permeability;

2 - the first layer of expanded polystyrene is attached to the wall with cement glue and dish-shaped dowels;

4 - the second layer of expanded polystyrene is inserted between the guides and fixed with mounting foam;

5 - vinyl siding sheathing.

Rice. 4. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE WALL WITH MINERAL WOOL UNDER THE HINGED FACADE:

1 - a wall made of a material with high vapor permeability (wooden beam);

2 - horizontal crate;

3 - the first layer of basalt wool 50 mm thick (inserted between the bars of the crate);

4 - vertical crate;

5 - the second layer of basalt wool 50 mm thick;

6 - superdiffusion membrane;

7 - lathing slats for sheathing; 8-wooden cladding of the facade.

5 pieces. MC-38 wired door window sensor magnetic switch for…

Currently, developers in the construction of new buildings pay special attention to the thermal protection of the outer walls. This is required not only by building codes, but also by the desire to increase their competitiveness. However, the situation with walls in old houses is somewhat different. Owners of private houses have to carry out the insulation of the premises with their own hands in order to keep the heat inside and leave the cold outside.

There can be several reasons for a decrease in the temperature inside the house: a poor heating system, the presence of cracks, drafts. However, the most common reason is poor wall insulation. Walls occupy the largest area in the room and are the main source of heat loss. There are several ways to insulate the walls in a private house from the outside.

Why insulation should be carried out outside

1. When insulating a house from the outside, the material protects the walls not only from heat loss, but also from the negative effects of moisture. Home heat warms up the wall and, in case of moisture ingress and condensation, contributes to its rapid drying.
2. moves closer to the outer edge of the wall. This prevents condensation.
3. Warming the house from the outside with your own hands not only protects the room from the cold, but also saves the usable area of ​​​​the rooms.

Outside wall insulation options

There are several options for how best to insulate a private house outside:

• Installation of heat-insulating material on the wall using an adhesive solution and further coating with plaster.
• Formation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with a solution. Next, the outer wall is laid in one layer of brick, taking into account the air space.
• Installation of a ventilated facade. A heater is attached on top of the waterproofing, on which a wind protection is installed. The finishing stage is sheathing with decorative clapboard or other siding.

Each method has its own nuances in execution. There are combined materials, as well as modern modified ones, the installation of which should follow a special technology. can be carried out even in the cold season, since its technology does not provide for the use of an adhesive composition.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?

There are several types insulation material. Each of them has its own characteristics and price range. The following heaters are considered the most popular:

• polystyrene (expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose based insulation.

Proper insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with your own hands depends on the choice the best option wall insulation. The main differences between the above materials are vapor permeability, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters are selected based on the features climatic conditions, as well as the method of fastening to ensure maximum protection of the room from moisture. Thermal conductivity is taken into account when calculating the required thickness to achieve the optimum effect.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

Work on insulation should begin with the calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator. Calculations are carried out on the basis of data from SNiPa, GOST and SP. If it is not possible to carry out calculations on your own, it is better to use the services of private design organizations. The thickness of the insulation depends on the heat loss of the house through the outer walls, window frames, foundation, ceilings and roof. Taking into account the data obtained, and also taking into account the power of the heating system, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated.

Next, they decide on the choice of material and carry out the insulation of the house from the outside with their own hands. It is important to take into account not only the type and dimensions of the heat insulator, but also the number of required layers. For example, it is better to abandon polystyrene foam if laying in several layers is required. For this, mineral wool or polyurethane foam, the thickness of which is much less, is suitable.

Preparing walls for insulation

After choosing the better to insulate the house from the outside, proceed to the main work. The main goal is to prepare the walls for further installation of the material. To achieve a perfectly even brick, wood or concrete surface, the old layer of plaster or other insulator is completely removed.

Particular attention should be paid to the primer of the walls. If there are differences in the levels on the wall (protrusions and recesses over 2 cm), it is better to repair them with a special solution or comb them to the desired level. A primer with deep penetration should be used. Before applying the primer, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt.

In order for the insulation for the walls to lay down evenly on the outside and not interfere with the construction of an external wall of decorative bricks or plastering, you should think over a system of plumb lines and lighthouses in advance. They are used to determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which facilitates its installation.

Anchors or screws are installed to the upper edge of the wall. A strong thread is tied to them and lowered with plumb lines to the very bottom. Between them, horizontal threads are attached, which form a control grid. It serves as a guide when mounting the frame or installing insulation.

Installation of foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

Styrofoam is attached to the wall with a special adhesive for polystyrene boards. Sometimes building "fungi" are used for these purposes.

When insulating EPPS walls, the surface on which the adhesive solution will be applied is made rough. This contributes to a more reliable bonding. There are no such problems with foam plastic, since the glue fixes it without additional processing.

Often, both glue and “fungi” are used at the same time to strengthen the fastening. This is over right decision, which extends the life of the insulation.

The final stage of wall insulation from the outside is the application of plaster or cladding with decorative materials.

How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside with foam plastic using wooden slats

In practice, another method of fastening foam sheets is used - by forming a frame from wooden slats.

For the construction of the frame, slats are used, the thickness of which is not less than the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness is slightly larger, this will create a ventilated space between the insulation and the facing material. The distance between the slats is calculated in such a way that the plates are tightly inserted into the niches and do not fall out.

This type of installation is acceptable if finishing walls will be used siding or lining. Reiki will serve as the basis for fastening facing material.

fastening features

With the help of mineral wool, you can also insulate a private house from the outside. Materials and work tips are similar to the mounting instructions basalt slabs and cellulose-based insulation.

For more reliable installation of mineral wool sheets, a frame system of wooden slats is formed. The width of the crate should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the heat-insulating material. This ensures that the mineral wool is tightly inserted between the bars and there are no gaps. Additionally, anchors are installed, on which sheets of insulation are subsequently put on. If the wall surface is uneven, two-layer mineral wool is used, the layers of which have different densities. The soft layer provides reliable adhesion to the wall.

In terms of exterior finish, mineral wool is more versatile, unlike other types of heat insulators. On top of the insulation, you can install an external horizontal lining, under which a windproof layer is attached in the form of a dense polyethylene film. Used for wall cladding decorative brick, lining or other siding. This technology allows you to create a three-layer ventilated insulation that is suitable for most climatic zones.

How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside with polyurethane foam

The principle of mounting polyurethane foam is similar to the technology of fastening mineral wool. However, it is almost impossible to independently perform wall insulation using this material. The method involves the use of special expensive equipment that distributes the liquid mixture over the treated surface. In addition, without professional skills, working with the installation causes many difficulties.

The main feature of this method of insulation is the very fast execution of work. With the above installation, polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the surface. As a result of a chemical reaction, a liquid substance is transformed into a solid state and foams. The insulation does not form an air space between the wall and the heat insulator, which provides a stronger and more durable coating.

Features of polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam has many advantages, including:

• after hardening fills all cracks and cavities;
• vapor permeability is significantly lower than that of other materials;
• quickly and securely fixed to the wall;
• excellent mechanical strength;
• good heat and sound insulation.

However, the cost of the material and its installation are quite expensive. Durability and high quality indicators justify the high costs of its installation.

If sooner or later the question arises of how to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, the instructions for using polyurethane foam will help solve the problem of heat loss and maintain a comfortable temperature in the room.

Regardless of what material is used as a heat insulator, any of the above options copes with its main task - warming the room. Besides, outer insulation allows you to keep warm and protect the surface from moisture. About how to insulate the walls in a private house from the outside, tell step-by-step instruction And practical advice specialists.

The construction of walls and roofs of the house is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the constructed space comfortable for life. To do this, most often the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but do not know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this problem - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The procedure for performing work was also considered, thematic photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation were selected.

The materials from which the walls of capital structures are built can be different: brick, concrete, slag or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to one degree or another.

Why is it necessary to insulate the outside? Many attribute this to the fact that in the case of an insulating layer inside the building, the useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but the main reason is not at all in this. The critical parameter is .

The dew point is formed on the surface, where there is a temperature difference with a change in pressure.

And if you arrange thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space and prevent it from getting onto the building envelope.

Warming from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form precisely inside the building, most likely on inner surface main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedure for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not be able to dry. Hence a number of negative points, including development.

That is why it is so important to insulate the walls from the outside. In total, 3 technologies are distinguished, with the help of which capital structures are insulated. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method number 1 - well

This is one of the oldest ways to insulate the walls of your house from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: capital bearing walls, and after that, stepping back a little, they are lined with another row of bricks - with a thickness, for example, of half a brick.

Between the capital and the outer wall, let's call it decorative, a void is formed - a “well”, which creates the effect of a thermos.

Distance from decorative wall to capital it is regulated with the help of special binding steel anchors or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It overlaps the section of the well and at the same time serves as reinforcement for strengthening the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes in the external insulation of the facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation of capital buildings ceases to be a separate issue, which is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive when choosing the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in the cost of electricity and energy carriers, for example, gas, it will be questions that will come to the fore when erecting a building. heat saving.

Tell us what method of insulation you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the contact box below the article.