Insulation of the ceiling of the bath in the old fashioned way with asoka. To insulate the ceiling of the bath is an old way. Bath ceiling insulation technology watch video

Many of my readers often ask me how to properly insulate the ceiling in the steam room of the Russian bath. The question is really important, since the maximum steam leaks go through the ceiling. You also need to remember that the temperature of the ceiling plays a very important role in creating the right conditions for the Russian bath.

First of all, let me remind my readers that the finishing of the steam room ceiling should be done with a massive board of non-coniferous wood (linden, aspen). The lining, traditional for dry-air steam rooms and saunas, is far from the best choice for steam Russian bath. An array of wood on the ceiling accumulates a large amount of heat and gently releases it in the form of the right IR radiation, good heat, steaming. The temperature of the ceiling in the steam room of the Russian bath is always higher than the temperature of the walls, since the heat always rises. The correct temperature of the ceiling contributes to the correct formation of the steam cake. Usually the temperature of the ceiling in the right steam rooms is + 70- + 85 degrees. You also need to remember that the oven is the heart of the bath and from right choice sauna stoves directly depend on the correct conditions in the steam room.

Below I will describe the correct classic pie for warming the ceiling of a steam room in a Russian bath using modern materials. If we describe the “pie” starting from the side of the steam room, then it consists of the following layers:

1. Finishing the ceiling of the steam room. As I wrote above, for this you should use an array of boards, and not lining. The board must be made of non-coniferous wood (linden, aspen) and have a thickness of at least 25-30 mm, and preferably thicker. You can use croaker. If you use a board of coniferous wood (spruce, pine) on the ceiling of the steam room of the Russian bath, then the probability of resin release under the action of high temperatures in the area of the steam room ceiling is very high. This resin will tend to collect into drops and, due to the force of attraction, will begin to drip. Resin can get on open areas steaming bodies, which will at least lead to discomfort, and at most to a burn.

2. Gap between fine finish the ceiling of the steam room of the Russian bath and vapor barrier. Usually, to organize such a gap, wooden slats of any kind of wood with a thickness of 20-50 mm are used. Some believe that this gap in the "pie" is not needed and the finishing ceiling boards can be sewn directly to the vapor barrier. I am not a supporter of this, since when attaching the finishing ceiling boards directly to the vapor barrier, the risk of mechanical damage to the vapor barrier material, more often aluminum foil, increases significantly. In the same way as well-known experts in the reflective properties of foil, with whom I once had a chance to talk, say that the absence of a gap significantly reduces the ability of the foil to reflect thermal energy.

3. Vapor barrier. The most responsible and very important layer of the "pie" of warming the ceiling of the bath. Treat it with the utmost care! Since there can be significant temperatures in the area of the ceiling of the steam room of the Russian bath, ordinary film vapor barrier is not suitable. The film will just melt. Most often, aluminum foil with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 microns is used to vapor barrier the steam room ceiling. It is convenient to work with paper-based foil. Just do not take paper, with aluminum coating - this is a completely different material. Izospan foil material has proven itself well Facebook , Armofol. I strongly do not recommend the use of foil materials based on polyethylene foam type Penofol. The foam substrate will most likely not withstand the high temperatures of the steam room and will begin to melt, releasing harmful substances. Foil materials based on expanded polypropylene, such as Penotherm, can be used. This material is resistant to temperatures up to +150C.

The foil material on the ceiling is laid in two layers, preferably with overlapping joints. All joints of both the first and second layers are carefully glued with aluminum tape. Careful gluing is very important! Otherwise, there is a very high probability of the appearance of places through which steam will escape. Use only high-quality adhesive tape that sticks well to the foil! It is convenient to shoot the foil to the ceiling with a stapler. Places of paper clips are also better to be glued with adhesive tape. Pay special attention to the corners and where the ceiling meets the walls. In these places, I recommend making a good overlap of foil material on the walls (at least 10-20 cm). The junction of the ceiling foil with wooden walls or bricks of the chimney pipe is treated with silicone sealant. The sealant adheres well to the foil. In places where the foil overlaps on wooden walls, after gluing to the sealant, I recommend reinforcing with tightly attached wooden slats.

If foil is also present on the walls, for example, in frame structure, the joining of the ceiling foil and the wall foil is also very carefully glued with aluminum tape. I recommend running the wall foil onto the ceiling foil, and not vice versa.

4. Draft ceiling. Usually done with a board of any kind of wood 25mm or thicker. It is convenient to attach a vapor barrier to the draft ceiling, and also to move around when laying insulation in the attic, leaning on it. Some try to make a steam room insulation pie without organizing a draft ceiling with laying the insulation directly on the foil. I do not recommend doing this. The foil will sag a lot and its installation, as well as later, the installation of insulation becomes problematic.

5. Insulation. The thickness of the insulation must be at least 150mm. Low-density roll or tile insulation is usually used. More often use basalt or other mineral wool, which is designed for insulation of ceilings. For greater efficiency it is better to organize the insulation in three layers with overlapping joints. Attention! The insulation is laid directly on the draft ceiling! A common mistake is that another layer of vapor barrier is laid on the draft ceiling under the insulation. It is unacceptable! With such an incorrect “pie”, the probability of a quick decay of the draft ceiling is very high!

6. Vapor-permeable hydro-wind protection type Izospan-A or analogues. This membrane is laid so that the insulation is not dusty and is protected from any possible influences. Attention! A very common mistake is to install a vapor barrier instead of a vapor-permeable membrane. With such an incorrect “pie”, the probability of the insulation getting wet in the steam room of the Russian bath is very high! The heater stops working as an insulating material.

7. Ventilated gap. Usually organized with wooden slats 20-50mm thick. You can do without this gap, but I still recommend doing it. Moreover, it is ventilated, that is, when laying the finishing floor of the attic, it is necessary to provide gaps between the floor and the walls of the attic for free air circulation in this gap.

8. Finished attic floor. It is carried out with a floor board with a possible subsequent decorative coating.

I am often asked about whether it makes sense to insulate the ceiling of a steam room not with modern materials for building a bath, but with the use of "environmentally friendly" clay-based materials. Indeed, in ancient times, the steam room insulation pie was different. There was no foil. On the ceiling of the steam room, a rolling of logs or semi-logs was made. He was caulked and from above, from the side of the attic, paper, cardboard or dry leaves were laid. On top of them, liquid clay was poured in several layers, reinforced with sawdust, straw or dry leaves. I do not see the point in our time to make such a difficult cake to make. Experience shows that these technologies are now almost lost. Those who have gone down this path almost always have big problems with cracking of the clay, its strong shrinkage and the clay layer moving away from wooden walls attic. The fact is that the clay must be prepared in a special way, and then shed it in very thin numerous layers, waiting for the complete drying of each layer. From the point of view of ecology, I also consider this method not justified, since these layers of insulation do not come into contact with the atmosphere of the steam room and cannot have a positive or negative environmental impact on the steamers.

Also, many insulate the ceiling of the steam room with dry leaves or a thick layer of sawdust without the use of clay. This option has the right to life if you build heavily budget bath. Savings are illusory, and rodents almost always start in such heaters.

Many people consider foil not an environmentally friendly material, but wax paper is used as a vapor barrier on the ceiling of a steam room. I don't see the point either. Modern foil is environmentally friendly, it is allowed even for contact with food products. At least I have never met reasoned arguments about the harmful effects of foil on humans.

The bath is not only a place for washing. This is a place where you can simultaneously enjoy water procedures and heat, step up work immune system, metabolic processes, cause an accelerated cleansing of the body from toxins and toxins.

If the bath is poorly insulated, then a large amount of heat will simply go nowhere, and it turns out that energy is wasted. It is clear that it is better to make high-quality insulation once than to deal with the consequences later. After all, if there is no insulating layer on the floor beams, then they will simply get wet from condensate and quickly collapse.

Warming is carried out using the most different materials. Insulation of the bath ceiling with clay- an old and not financially expensive option.

This technology has been used for more than one hundred years, and therefore it has been worked out to the smallest detail, which allows you to carry out insulation yourself without special training and building skills.

Ways

The easiest way clay insulation begins with the ceiling sheathing with boards. Their minimum thickness should be 4 cm, but it is better if it is 6 cm. Before carrying out work, the boards must be dried well. In no case should you paint and varnish boards, because many paints and varnishes high temperature are simply not adapted and under its action can begin to release poisonous resins and polyesters into the space.

At all it is better not to use chemicals in the bath unless you intend to constantly inhale its destructive fumes.

After completing the sheathing, it is necessary to carefully and carefully cover the gaps between the boards with clay and wait for it to dry completely.

The next stage begins with the preparation of a mixture of sand and clay, which should be quite thick. This mixture covers all the boards laid on the ceiling. The thickness of the layer should be at least 5-7 cm. Next, you should wait until the layer is completely dry, and this can take quite a long time. A thick layer of sand is laid on the dried clay.

Then the ceiling is impregnated first with liquid vapor, and then dry. Clay, respectively, first soaks, and then finally dries up and acquires the ability to keep your bath warm for many years.

So that the insulated ceiling retains its heat-insulating properties for as long as possible The attic must be ventilated. The simplest and at the same time reliable way to create ventilation is two windows opposite each other.

Another way consists in warming with several layers of clay with intermediate layers of clay falling asleep with sawdust or expanded clay. In order to prepare the clay, it is slightly moistened and thoroughly mixed with straw until smooth. The straw is pre-crushed. The final consistency should be like soft plasticine or mortar, which is used in laying brick walls.

The layer of clay will again be 5-8 cm. After application, it must be carefully smoothed out. Particular care requires sealing the perimeter of the ceiling. Clay will dry in 20-30 days, provided that the temperature outside is above zero. After drying, cracks may appear. This is normal. On the cracks, you can apply another thinner clay layer, and fill it with sawdust, expanded clay or wood chips from above.

Banya is a favorite place for owners of private houses and summer cottages. They strive to equip this room as best as possible, choosing the best options for thermal and waterproofing. There is an opinion that it is necessary to give preference to the old methods of insulating ceilings and walls.

But on reflection, in most cases, the owners of the baths come to the conclusion that a rational way of improvement is a combination of traditional folk and modern methods. The fact is that the former, despite their environmental friendliness and free of charge, still lose to innovative ones in some respects. This will become apparent if we compare the thermal insulation characteristics of ceilings insulated using techniques used in past centuries and at the present time.

What covered the ceiling of the bath in the past

Residents of villages and settlements of past centuries for the improvement of housing and utility rooms used everything that nature gave. These are materials such as:

Dry birch and oak leaves were especially popular. It was believed that they were able to give the bath a special "spirit", giving health benefits.

Packed straw was used everywhere. It has the appearance of dense, irregularly shaped briquettes, which are difficult to break even with a strong pressure of a jet from a hose. The ancestors knew that backfilling the ceiling in the bath is a serious matter, and used not only heaters, but also a waterproofing agent - clay.

Experts are convinced that some materials cannot be used to backfill the ceiling of the steam room. The temperature in this room is too high, so its improvement requires the presence of heaters with a low flammability coefficient. The "pie" of the filling ceiling of the steam room was as follows:

clay coating;
layer of soil or sand.

Options for traditional backfilling of the bath ceiling (the arrangement of layers from the attic floor to the roof)

Modern ways of backfilling the ceiling of the bath

Expanded clay insulation

Qualitatively insulating the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Experts know that the best effect can be achieved by mixing granules of different diameters. This makes it possible to reduce void volumes, thereby increasing the density of the layer.

The standard technique provides for the method of free backfilling and subsequent pressing of the granules. As a result, the initial volume of material is reduced by 15-20%. Moreover, most of this effect is not due to the correct distribution of expanded clay grains relative to each other, but to their partial destruction caused by compression. Cracked granules lose a significant proportion of their thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the usefulness of this technique is questionable.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Backfilling of expanded clay with subsequent compaction - photo, example

The highest quality insulation with expanded clay is possible only with the manual distribution of granules of different diameters. This process is long and laborious. But all efforts will pay off handsomely: the heat-insulating layer will be dense and consisting of undestroyed grains.

Expanded clay has a lot of advantages, including low thermal conductivity. You can meet the opinion that this material creates an increased radiation background. But it is wrong. All enterprises producing ceramite work in strict accordance with GOST. This is a guarantee of product safety.

If the attic of the bath is planned to be used, a screed can be made over the backfill. This method allows you to get a double benefit: to insulate the ceiling of the interior and increase the comfort of the attic due to a flat warm floor.

Backfilling the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay. Instruction

Step 1. Waterproofing the bearing surface

You can use roll (roofing felt), film (membranes), coating (mastics) waterproofing. The best option: lay the sheets of roofing material on hot bitumen and glue the joints with them. It is important that the waterproofing covers not only the floor, but also the walls to the height of the backfill layer. For the northern regions, it should be at least 30 cm.

If a screed is made over the insulation, it is necessary to lay a damper tape around the perimeter of the room. Its purpose is to compensate for linear tensions in the concrete layer. The tape must cover the edges of the waterproofing coating.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

If you plan to lay a wooden floor, mount the crate from the boards installed on the ends, located at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

Step 2 Backfill

For backfilling, it is better to use expanded clay of different fractions, large and small, after mixing them with each other. During this work, a lot of dust will be released, so it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the room. Expanded clay is poured in layers, the granules are evenly distributed and compacted with a construction trowel or plaster trowel.

Step 3 Backfill structural elements baths (chimney, ventilation ducts)

In order for the insulation layer to be more dense, boxes of boards are knocked down around the structures protruding above the attic floor. These cavities are filled in the same way that the ceiling is insulated.

If a screed is being built, the following list of works is performed:

a layer of insulation is shed with cement milk;
put up beacons;
lay a reinforcing mesh with a cell edge of 5-10 cm;
pour cement-sand mortar.

Video - Floor screed with expanded clay

Backfilling the ceiling of the bath with sawdust

Sawdust and wood shavings are an effective, environmentally friendly heat insulator. Since wood is hygroscopic and prone to decay, this method of improving the bath requires the installation of high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

But this is not enough to achieve the best thermal insulation effect. Sawdust should not be poured onto the ceiling without prior processing. No matter how dry this material is, it will inevitably absorb moisture from the air. This will cause the development of decay processes.

In addition, insects can start in sawdust and shavings, which will harm not only the insulation, but also the ceiling. Therefore, before backfilling, a number of measures are taken to ensure a long operational period of the heat-insulating layer.

sawdust prices

Preparation of a mixture of sawdust with clay

sawdust mixed with clay different ways. The two most popular are:

shaping briquettes with their subsequent drying;
laying the wet mass directly on the floor.

In the first case, forms assembled from boards will be required.

Both in the first and in the second option, the main attention is paid to two processes:

clay preparation;
mixing it with sawdust.

Clay is prepared like this:

placed in a container of a suitable volume;
grind as much as possible;
pour water in a ratio of 1: 1;
leave to swell for 5-6 hours;
Water is added in small portions, achieving the consistency of thick sour cream.

You can mix sawdust with clay manually using a shovel. But a high-quality mixture can only be obtained using a concrete mixer.

If it is decided to make briquettes, the finished composition is laid out in forms knocked together from boards.

If the wet mass is laid on the ceiling, they provide high-quality ventilation of the room.

The surface of the layer is leveled with a spatula or trowel.

To increase the fire resistance of sawdust, they are mixed with cement, lime, gypsum. These materials can be combined. For example, high-quality insulation gives the following composition:

10 buckets of sawdust and wood shavings;
1 bucket of Portland cement grade not lower than M300;
1 bucket of slaked lime.

The ingredients are mixed by hand or in a concrete mixer. This mixture can be molded into blocks or laid wet, as is the case with clay.

Backfilling the ceiling of the bath can be done in a continuous layer or in a crate. The first method is advantageous for its simplicity and low labor costs. The second allows you to make the heat insulator layer more dense and lay the floor.

Filling the ceiling of the steam room

The improvement of the steam room has its own characteristics. This room has the highest temperature and humidity levels. It is extremely important to avoid heat leakage here, but foil materials with a heat-reflecting effect cannot be used either from the attic side or from the side interior. The fact is that they can melt and lose their effectiveness.

To backfill the ceiling of the steam room, you need to take non-combustible materials:

ash;
slag (waste of metallurgical production);
dry sand;
priming;
expanded clay;
wood concrete (blocks made from a mixture of sawdust with clay, cement, lime).

Clay, roofing material, glassine and any modern coating materials (bitumen-based mastics) are suitable for waterproofing the ceiling of the steam room.

The best options for backfilling the ceiling of the bath

If you wish, you can find information about what conclusions the owners of the baths came to, by trial and error found optimal solutions for their buildings. They offer a list of materials and the sequence of their installation, but do not focus on the thickness of the backfill layer of the bath ceiling. It depends on the region where you live.

When determining this indicator for a particular structure, you can focus on the recommendations of experts:

the thickness of the layer of mineral wool for the southern regions is 15 cm, for the northern 20 cm;
expanded clay - 15-30 cm;
sawdust concrete (arbolite) - 10-15 cm;
dry compressed straw 30-50 cm;
dry sand - 10-20 cm.

Methods for backfilling the bath ceiling, which are the most successful combinations traditional and modern methods.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Layer order from attic to roof	Option 1	Option 2	Option 3	Option 4	Option 5
1	glassine, laid in 2-3 layers with a call on the walls to the height of the backfill	ruberoid	from the side of the attic coating with clay (2-3 cm)	vapor barrier layer	roofing material from the side of the attic, penofol foil down from the side of the interior
2	dry sand 20-25 cm	reed (outline)	over clay 2 rows of basalt wool slabs	styrofoam crumb	expanded clay 10-15 cm
3		clay mixed with dry straw (adobe)	from the side of the interior: foam foil down, a gap of 1-2 cm, facing material	plank flooring	mineral wool in rolls or slabs

One of modern ways warming the ceiling of the bath - the use of growing aerated concrete. It is also suitable for protecting the chimney.

Video - Cutting a pipe in a ceiling

Antipyretics for children are prescribed by a pediatrician. But there are emergency situations for fever when the child needs to be given medicine immediately. Then the parents take responsibility and use antipyretic drugs. What is allowed to give to infants? How can you bring down the temperature in older children? What medicines are the safest?

When arranging a cottage or country house often the task of building a bath arises. The classical bath has developed a number of specific traditions dating back to ancient times. Previous generations have created proven construction and finishing technologies. Thanks to these techniques, the bath has unique healing properties. Today we'll talk more about how insulate the ceiling of the bath.

Ceiling insulation

During construction baths, installation and insulation of the ceiling is considered one of the important points. What's on the ceiling? In the process of using the bath, he undergoes a number of aggressive influences. Inside the steam room, conditions of high humidity and air temperature are created. Hot steam rises to the ceiling, and if there is a small heat transfer through the ceiling, the space inside the bath will not warm up, and bath will not serve its intended purpose. There are many ways to insulate ceilings, consider some of them.

The old fashioned way insulate the ceiling of the bath

On the grooved boards, a solution of pasty clay about 5 cm is spread from the side of the attic with the addition of chopped rye straw. After drying, the clay cracks. This dried layer is rubbed with a solution composed of clay and sand. When both clay layers dry, a sand cushion 10-12 cm thick is poured on top. Clay-sand layers serve to absorb excess moisture, which is formed from wet steam. Due to the high temperature in the sauna room, when there is no steam, the clay layer dries out and retains heat in the bath.

Backfill method

Groove boards are nailed to the beams. They need to be proliferated. A layer of boards with moisture gaps is attached to the grooved boards. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top. A pillow of 20 cm from bulk types of heat insulators is poured onto the waterproofing layer. It can howl slag, sand, a mixture of sawdust with clay. A good option for this method of insulation is considered to be backfilling with expanded clay granules.

Combined method of how to insulate bath ceiling

The ceiling is sewn up with thick boards, the thickness of which is from 7 cm or more. A vapor barrier is laid on the boards (waxed paper, oiled cardboard, foil). Then a pillow is made of soft clay, on which a 15 cm thick insulation is laid.

As a heater, various organic and mineral heat-insulating substances are used. For example, sawdust with clay, expanded clay, modern mineral fiber materials. A sand-cement screed is made on top of the thermal insulation, and flooring is made on top. Mineral wool is additionally covered with a film or fiberboard sheets.

Combined method with sawdust

Two layers of boards are screwed to the beams with the help of screws, the first layer consists of not edged boards, and the second (on the inside) is a finishing lining made of aspen with gaps left. On top of this structure, cardboard is covered from the side of the attic, and on it - 2-5 cm of a clay layer mixed with sawdust. Next layer - 15 cm basalt insulation. This whole "pie" is covered with film and attic boards.

On the modern construction market, you can find a great variety of heaters made of jute, flax fiber and other materials. Good feedback meet about jute felt, which does not emit harmful substances.

It's several ways how to insulate the ceiling of the bath. I will be glad if I helped you with advice.

The bath is not only a place for washing. This is a place where you can simultaneously enjoy water procedures and heat, activate the immune system, metabolic processes, cause an accelerated cleansing of the body from toxins and toxins.

Warming is made using a variety of materials. Insulation of the bath ceiling with clay- an old and not financially expensive option.

Ways

The easiest way clay insulation begins with the ceiling sheathing with boards. Their minimum thickness should be 4 cm, but it is better if it is 6 cm. Before carrying out work, the boards must be dried well. In no case should you paint and varnish boards, because many paints and varnishes are simply not adapted to high temperatures and under its action can begin to release poisonous resins and polyesters into the space.

At all it is better not to use chemicals in the bath unless you intend to constantly inhale its destructive fumes.

After completing the sheathing, it is necessary to carefully and carefully cover the gaps between the boards with clay and wait for it to dry completely.

Then the ceiling is impregnated first with liquid vapor, and then dry. Clay, respectively, first soaks, and then finally dries up and acquires the ability to keep your bath warm for many years.

Insulation of foundations prolongs their life for a long time, as it reduces the impact of negative temperatures, and also - waterproof insulation acts as a waterproofing. So it turns out that in some houses the floors are warm all winter without any heating, in others they are cold, despite a hefty layer of thermal insulation under them. Practice shows that the insulation of foundations helps to solve this issue. The temperature in the underground is much higher than the street, and the floors cool more slowly.

How were foundations insulated in the old days?

Not for nothing from the old days, when there was only one stove from the heating devices in the huts, they necessarily arranged a mound around the perimeter of the house. After all, even strip foundations made of concrete were a rarity, mostly houses were built on large stones, as on a columnar foundation. Since only sawdust and straw were available from the heaters, which did not last long outside the house, the underground around the perimeter was covered with sand, filled with medium-sized stones, etc.

Photo of a typical blockage - for warming the foundation and underground space

At the same time, the problem of protecting the foundation from frost and moisture was also solved, which means that the durability of the foundation increases.

Modern insulation of foundations

Technologies have stepped far forward, however, even now the insulation of foundations is in great demand. Moreover, the space inside the foundation is often used for technical and even residential premises. Often, the boiler room, sauna and other premises are located in the basement. Cold uninsulated walls (they are the foundation of the house) in such rooms are unacceptable - condensation will constantly accumulate, fungus will form, etc.

Experts advise using foam insulation for insulation of foundations. The slabs are easily mounted on a finished foundation, do not absorb or conduct moisture, and are resistant to damage by bioorganisms. Environmentally friendly and durable material.

The insulation boards are fixed to the foundation surface with bitumen-based adhesives that do not contain solvents. In fact, glue will be needed only until the moment of backfilling with soil. Backfilling is carried out in layers, with compaction.

After the foundation is insulated with foam plastic, the concrete is not only thermally insulated, it is frozen soil in winter time, but also moisture-proof, because material does not pass water and moisture.

Real estate and electricity prices are steadily rising. Building corporations and ordinary people who want to build their own home are forced to look for ways to reduce the cost of providing heat to the premises.

- one of the best options solutions. To be honest, this is not new at all. This technology has long been used by our ancestors. It was first remembered in Europe and the USA, when the issue of the thermal efficiency of houses became an edge. You should not be naive to assume that the straw house will fall apart at any moment, as in the fairy tale about the three little pigs. Thanks to special technologies, such a house will stand for a hundred years to the delight of its owners.

In America, for example, straw houses have been built since the mid-19th century. It started because straw is a publicly available material, but there was not enough wood. As soon as press machines were invented, building straw houses gained popularity. After the advent of new building technologies (mid-20th century), straw was forgotten, but not for long. The crisis of the ecological situation and concern for their health prompted people to revive such construction.

It has a number of advantages listed below:

Excellent thermal insulation.
Relative speed in construction.
Cheap straw.
Fairly good soundproofing.
Environmentally friendly material - does not harm health.

In case of non-compliance with technology straw house insulation the following consequences may occur:

Rotting of straw at a moisture content of more than 20%. It is necessary to clearly monitor during construction so that the straw is dry.
During construction, fire is very dangerous. By themselves, straw blocks, pressed using a special technology, are resistant to fire. But, during the construction process, there should be no fire on the site (even smoking is prohibited), because. a few bundles of straw on the floor can start a big fire.
The risk of rodent colonization in straw walls. To avoid such troubles, experts advise using rice or rye straw, which mice do not eat.
Although it is not expensive to build straw houses, it is necessary to immediately have funds for a complete construction, taking into account interior and exterior finishes. Such construction cannot be “frozen” and continued in a year or two.

Where to begin insulating your home with straw? First you need to purchase pressed blocks of straw. It is very important that the pressing is strong and of high quality (otherwise there will be risks of fires). Next, the blocks are placed between the racks of the frame. Straw blocks are fastened with rods (both metal and wooden can be used). The next step in warming the house with straw is the processing of straw. As a rule, a clay-lime mortar or a mixture of clay and water is used. It should be applied in several layers.

Drywall covers the inside of the wall. For exterior finish many options. The wagon looks good. Thanks to frame technology a wall insulated with straw is quite resistant even to hurricane winds.

If the walls of the house are made of straw, then the roof cannot be constructed from very heavy materials. In order to prevent rain and snow from falling on the walls in large quantities, they usually make a cornice with a margin (at least 50 cm).

A positive thing when building straw walls is that the foundation may not be massive, which speeds up and reduces the cost of the construction process.

In addition to the obvious environmental benefits, straw wall insulation is cost effective. A brick house with the same level of comfort usually costs twice as much. Wood prices are also constantly rising, due to insufficient renewal of the Earth's forest reserves. Straw, in fact, is waste, which often rots. The price of straw bales mainly consists of the cost of pressing the straw. The cost of the material is negligible. It is worth considering why, with a number of advantages, straw houses did not replace other construction? The answer is tritely simple - it is unprofitable for someone, namely corporations that produce expensive building materials. So before you enrich someone's pockets, you should study in detail the pros and cons. And choose a house of straw!

Just a few decades ago, no one used modern heaters, glass wool. About such "miracles" as built-in convectors in the floor, people could not even think. If we talk about the houses in which our ancestors lived, then somehow heat was preserved there. What exactly did people in Rus' do to create a suitable atmosphere in their homes?

The most natural heaters

Animal skins were the oldest materials used to insulate a house. They were hung on the walls, laid on the floors. Such material not only warmed properly, but also solved aesthetic problems. After the advent of weaving, instead of skins, people began to use carpets.

Warming with other materials

In the old days, wood was usually used for construction. In the process of building a house, it was necessary to provide:

multi-layer attic floor;
installation of double window frames.

Wool was used to insulate the windows. The most common method of thermal insulation was the use of hay or straw. The material was stored in the attic.

To protect the house from the outside, they made woodpile. There was a double reckoning here. Logs were needed to heat the stove in winter, in addition, they acted as an insulating barrier that did not allow cold air and wind to enter the house. Often also used turf.

Rose of Wind

In the process of building a house, the wind rose was certainly taken into account. All windows were located on the south or southeast side of the house. doorways and windows that looked to the north were not made. In addition, the stove was located next to the coldest wall or in the center of the house. In this case, she coped with the heating of the entire room. In Rus', they approached the insulation of the house in the most thorough way, and at any time of the year it was really warm in the dwellings. (jcomments on)

Insulation of the ceiling of the bath in the old fashioned way with asoka. To insulate the ceiling of the bath is an old way. Bath ceiling insulation technology watch video

Ways

What covered the ceiling of the bath in the past