Competent drainage device around the house: we understand the main points of installation. Drainage device around a private house - a system for draining water from the site and from the foundation Do-it-yourself open drainage around the house

Drainage around the house is effective way protection of building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site that is prone to seasonal or weather flooding. How to make drainage around the house with your own hands - step-by-step instruction. The arrangement of the drainage system is not a difficult task, but for its precise organization it is necessary to follow simple rules.

With the help of special drainage pipes LightDrein, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System Description

For effective drainage of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce bearing capacity soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision which type to choose and how best to make drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the protection system against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: filling, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​the land plot needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, wall or ring drainage is created. The first type is appropriate in the presence of a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain the site. To do this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most time-consuming, expensive, but also the most effective way is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from appearing, destroying garden and garden plants, destroy load-bearing building elements and not spoil the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account landscape design and the location of plantings;
• mark future tracks on the site itself with paint or sand;
• dig trenches along the marked routes with your own hands or with the help of small equipment (the depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce drainage clogging and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
• apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
• with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create manholes at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change in slope;
• perforated pipes are laid (preferably with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected using fittings;
• most optimal diameter a drainage pipe that provides good water drainage is considered 110 mm;
• the slope is checked again (can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding sagging of the pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the freezing level of the soil;
• from above, the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on a layer of crushed stone and soil is poured.

Do not be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the life of the house.

Backfill construction

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form it does not violate general view section and does not introduce dissonance into landscape design. Of the minuses, one can note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

An open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or removed from the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Lattices on top provide additional security.

How to make a closed drainage system

The most complex and time-consuming type of drainage is the closed type. When it is organized, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large gravel is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again closed with crushed stone or gravel, and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The material for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but at present, almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes, which already have holes in the finished form, are distinguished by their large length and ease of installation.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° along one branch or 1 cm for each running meter. When deciding how to properly slope the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

The cost of installation work

Name of works			price, rub.
Ring drainage device around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well
Wall drainage around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well

* The cost indicated on the site is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes.
Pricing also depends on the volume, remoteness of the object and other factors.

From this article you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system around the house: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but both technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they make it possible to create reliable protection foundations of a residential building from moisture.

Device

The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in the territory suburban area or eliminate excess fluid altogether.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. From the inside, groundwater causes flooding if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually reveals weak spots and gaps in waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.

The feasibility of drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy concrete base buildings, but also provoke the emergence of other negative impact factors. These factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in load-bearing structures building.

This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

1. The site has a lowland location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural way - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level in the area.
3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water is collected on the surface in such an amount that they simply do not have time to be discharged by natural means.
4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

Properly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a storm system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

• perform calculations correctly;
• select the type of system that meets the conditions of the site;
• select materials that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind areas in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Choosing a Foundation Drainage System

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.

The main types of surface systems:

• storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in a simple and affordable technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited opportunities. The storm drain is capable of removing only melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the territory of the entire suburban area and the area around the building. Water in this case moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels have a linear type of placement. Special gratings are put on top;
• dot system - a do-it-yourself foundation drainage option, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include water taps and downpipes. Point type drainage is blocked decorative grilles made of metal. They prevent clogging of the system with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with the technology, which involves the subsequent connection of water transfer routes to a single highway leading to the well.

Helpful advice! Spot and linear system can be combined to get combined option drainage, which allows to increase the efficiency of drainage of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device around the house: the cost of work

The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work performed with my own hands. But in this case you get:

• guaranteed quality of the result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and right choice materials;
• no errors fatal to the system;
• high speed organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

Service type	Depth level, m	Number of storm water inlets, pcs.	Price, rub./rm
Shallow storm drain	1	14 (maximum)	1500
		15 (minimum)	1900
Storm drain with a depth below the freezing level	1,5	14 (maximum)	2300
		15 (minimum)	2700

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser should be purchased), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

• drainage at the foundation of the building;
• garden drainage systems.

For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

• "herringbone";
• "partial sample";
• "parallel placement".

On garden plots install closed or open drainage systems. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation around the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type schemes are recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. At the same time, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of floors. Pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
• interlayers of sand, which has a draining purpose;
• soil;
• layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, it is necessary to organize a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back from it by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement, as well as basements.

Drainage device around the house: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub./rm
1	1500
1,5	2550
2	4600
2,5	7100
3	9450

Installation for this system of a collector well, complete with pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of penetration depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also consider the necessary indentation from the wall).

Arrangement of walldrainage around the house: the price of workFull construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub./rm
1	1600
1,5	2450
2	4300
2,5	6900
3	9600

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage device

To arrange the drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. For this, several wells (4-5 wells) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is studied.

On clayey and loamy soil types, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of the soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:

Climatic zones	Soil freezing depth, cm
Kurgan-Omsk	210-220
Orenburg-Kostanay	180-200
Vologda-Vyatka	150-170
Petersburg-Moscow	120-140
Rostov-on-Don-Kursk	90-110
Kaliningrad-Sevastopol	70-80

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage around the house: how to do the installation correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to complete a series of preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bituminous priming compound from the outside.
2. Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
3. Sticking reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
4. Drying the surface during the day.
5. Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The pipe laying pattern can be affected by specific gravity soil. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.

Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:

Pipeline installation depth, cm	Optimum distance between pipes, cm
	Light soil types	Soils with average values	Heavy clay soils
450	450-550	400-500	200-300
600	650-750	500-650	300-400
900	900-1100	700-900	400-550
1200	1200-1500	1000-1200	450-700
1500	1550-1800	1200-1500	650-900
1800	1800-2200	1500-1800	700-1100

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils optimal step pipe laying is no more than 50 m, on clay pipes - 10 m, on loamy pipes - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage around the house: how to do the main array of work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• at the lowest point of the site, a collector well is being installed;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope to the water collector, which is regulated using the building level;
• a sand cushion is created at the bottom of the trenches 5 cm thick;
• it is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be overlapped;
• formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
• docking of pipeline elements with the help of corner connectors and adapters;
• inspection wells are placed at the corners of the structure. From them to the drainage well, a pipeline is laid with a slope;
• formation of an embankment of gravel 10 cm thick;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of a geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

For the installation of this system, it is required to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

The trenches in this case should also be located with a slope to the well to collect water. The minimum slope indicator is 2-3 cm / linear meter. Adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and a geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped on the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
3. A pipeline is being installed with a diameter of elements of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2 °.
4. Manholes are being installed in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
6. Wrapping is carried out with the free edges of the geotextile fabric.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Do-it-yourself organization of drainage around the house without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:

1. Backfill system - improvised materials (fragments of concrete, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric are used as a filler for trenches.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with twisted caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon cords or wire.
4. Rod drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, strut sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then laid.
5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is obtained in cross section, directed with the apex down. Before filling with earth on the boards, it is recommended to lay moss as a filter.

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.

Use the video below for a more detailed look at the classic do-it-yourself drainage technology around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get reliable system drainage, even if you create a system of trenches from crushed stone without a pipeline.

drainage system around the house

Even the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot endlessly withstand ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through the opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects of the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and the foundation does not eventually become a capillary pump and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation, or at least reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

The most reliable way to protect the foundation from getting wet is to divert water from it through the drain. Various drainage systems are described below and examples of their implementation are given.

What is drainage and how does it work

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a bilge pump. Waterproofing and drainage system around the house perfectly complement each other and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As known from school course physics, the liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always overflows into a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries rather slowly. Therefore, the rapid discharge of the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry zone behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

Laying drainage around the house with your own hands is easy. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, such as a special well.

In any case, the drainage pipes are mounted at a slope. Ideally, if the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby, where water can be discharged. On a horizontal section located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it is filled. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from an orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

Do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation of a house is of two types: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary to drain water after melting snow and rain from the soil surface or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected in it along the blind area of ​​​​the foundation, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum rainfall in the area and the area of ​​the roof that collects water.

To protect against groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally - below the sole of the foundation.

In order to save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the sewer and drainage system by organizing the drain of the roof drains into the drainage pipe. This should not be done in any case, because during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drain water, and they actively penetrate the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into the drainage storage tank, but always through your own separate pipe.

The drainage device itself is highly dependent on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sand horizons. Heavy clay soil does not pass water well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, it will be necessary to dig an exploration pit. On heavily waterlogged lands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed from a waterproof film or even a concrete partition in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a drainage perforated pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it by tilting. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the do-it-yourself home drainage works, and the more water is removed from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to a gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. This angle during the arrangement of drainage must be controlled with a meter bubble level and a centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of ​​the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch is with a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging of the soil.

The device of the drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. A permeable geotextile is laid at the bottom of the ditch with an overlap on the edges. A layer of coarse sand and a few centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured on it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble.

Then it is completely covered with rubble and all this is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and gravel act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is covered with a thin layer of fine gravel, and then with soil.

How to make drainage around the house with a high level of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is pre-equipped along the outer edge of the ditch. The easiest option to make such an artificial watershed is to lay outer wall ditches with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing material. The depth of the ditch in this case should exceed the level of the water-resistant clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, drainage must close the perimeter around the foundation. The drain point is equipped in the place of the greatest occurrence of pipes. As already mentioned, the storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage pipes and a drain is unacceptable, and the place of groundwater discharge should be located below the connection point of the rain drain.

Outcome

The drainage device around the house provides a fairly high level of protection against wetting the foundation. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be relieved of many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

The drainage system arranged around the house makes it possible to significantly reduce or even completely remove excess water from the site. And this applies not only to groundwater, but also to precipitation. Do not confuse drainage with waterproofing, they can perfectly complement each other, but not interchangeable.

When is drainage necessary?

A drainage system is necessary in many areas, but in some it cannot be dispensed with.

• Drainage is especially needed in areas that are located quite low. In such places, the problem of accumulation of excessive amounts of moisture is constant.
• You can not do without drainage on clay soils, where the water level drops too slowly. Loamy soils are also best left unattended and drainage systems.
• Such systems are necessary if the area experiences a constantly high amount of precipitation.
• In areas where groundwater is at a fairly high level, it is also best to use drainage.

• The reason for the organization of the drainage system can also be a large number of waterproof coatings on the site, for example, concrete paths, an asphalted yard, and so on.
• Drainage is also required if there are adjacent buildings with a deep foundation on the site. Indeed, in such a case, water will collect on the surface, since it will not be able to find a way out anywhere. As a result, the risk of flooding increases.
• Even if there are no obvious prerequisites for arranging drainage, you should find out the features of the climate and terrain. If there is the slightest concern that after the rapid melting of snow or frequent rains, the groundwater level may increase, it is better to play it safe and install a drainage system. This will save not only money for home repairs, but also nerves.

Purpose and types of systems

The methods of organizing drainage systems on the site differ depending on the amount of precipitation, the level of groundwater, the characteristics of the type of soil, the topography of the site, the location of the house and other factors.

Drainage according to the installation method can be divided into two types.

• A perfect drainage system is installed at the level of natural water runoff. Moisture enters the drains through the holes located on the sides, as well as through the top of the pipes.
• An imperfect drainage system is installed higher than the water level. Moisture penetrates the drains from the bottom, top and sides. To strengthen the sides of this design, a drainage cushion made of sand and gravel is used.

According to the way the drainage is arranged, it is divided into open and closed.

Open

Drainage is a system of gutters, trenches, gutters, catchment trays. This system is organized without pipes. Such a drainage looks like a trench 0.5 meters wide and 0.5-0.6 meters deep, designed to drain melt and storm water from the house or from the site. The trench necessarily has a slope towards the main water intake trench, so that water is drained in the right direction by gravity.

The main advantages of such a drainage system are its low cost and speed of creation.. However, in order to divert a large amount of water due to precipitation, a deep drainage line is required, which is unsafe. In addition, if the walls of the ditches are not equipped, they will quickly collapse. Another disadvantage of such a system is that it makes the site look less neat and aesthetically unattractive.

To increase safety and increase the service life of this drainage option, special concrete or plastic trays are used, which are closed with bars on top. Open drainage is most often used in agriculture to divert water from already cultivated areas.

Closed

Underground drainage is a pipe system. It has a nicer look compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basements from groundwater and increase their service life.

Especially closed drainage is suitable for wetlands, as well as areas near which there are natural reservoirs or located in a lowland. In this case, closed drainage is best supplemented with storm sewers. Underground drainage is also called deep.

Underground drainage is divided into two types:

• wall-mounted;
• trench.

It should be clarified that indoor drainage is best done at the construction stage of the building.

If the house is already completely ready, then you should opt for a trench ring drainage system. But it should be borne in mind that it is only suitable for houses without a basement. In small areas where there is no need for open drainage, backfill drainage is used. The system of such backfill trenches is not serviced without dismantling after complete arrangement. This is its main drawback. The organization of backfill drainage is carried out in several stages.

Most often, in practice, open trench drainage is used, since it is the easiest to arrange.

Rain shower as an addition

A storm drain or storm sewer will be a useful addition to the drainage system. It allows you to remove from the site the water that falls on it in the form of precipitation. Through the storm drain, the water moves either to the well-water collector, or to the collector well, from which there is an outlet to the gutter or sewer network. For a well-collector, it is best to choose the most remote place from the building. You can also organize the drainage of water using a storm drain to the nearest body of water.

It should be remembered that laying on top of geotextiles is best suited for stormwater pipelines, and it is better to drain water directly into storm water inlets.

Storm sewer also called surface drainage. Its main advantage lies in the fact that it is very easy to settle on the site. However, it should be borne in mind that stormwater can only handle melt and rainwater.

The stormwater is divided into three types:

• Linear allows you to divert melt and rainwater not only from the house, but also from the entire site. This type is a channel that breaks out in the ground and a drainage well. Often the channels are made in the form of straight lines, which are covered with bars for safety.
• dotted allows you to divert water from individual sources, such as water taps or roof drains. In order to prevent debris from getting into this storm drain, it is covered with metal gratings. The organization of the linear view is that pipes are laid from each point, which are connected to the main pipe going to the drainage well.
• Combined stormwater implies the use of both linear and point types.

Adjoining water disposal

Types

The device of the drainage system around the house has several types.

• Plastovy drainage is used as an auxiliary structure. Such drainage is most often used as an additional to the main system. It is best to choose it for areas where groundwater occurs at a shallow depth. It is ideal for surface water drainage. Often reservoir drainage is used in clayey areas. It must be located at a small distance from the foundation of the building.
• Annular drainage prevents flooding of basements and basements. It is best to use such drainage in areas where the sand content is increased. This is due to the fact that the annular drainage almost does not retain moisture, easily passing it through.
• wall drainage is most commonly used. It allows you to protect not only the building, but also the basement levels from moisture. It is recommended to use it in areas with a lot of clay.

Device

To better understand what type of drainage is suitable for a particular area, it is necessary to consider in detail the device of each of them.

• Plast. At the heart of reservoir drainage is an air gap. Such a drainage option can be made in various ways. The most common of these is drainage in the form of a layer of gravel. For its arrangement, it is necessary to place a layer of gravel about 50 centimeters high under the exploited coating. This layer will become the air gap. A filter cloth, such as a geotextile, must be placed over this gap. Then pour a layer of sand and finish, for example, with tiles.

• Annular. The scheme of this drainage is vicious circle. Circle breaks are acceptable if water flows exclusively from one side of the building. The ring system is installed lower than the level of the base and at a distance of two to three meters from the walls. This helps to prevent flooding of the basements, and also prevents the soil on the site from collapsing.
• Wall mounted. This system is mounted at a distance of about 50 centimeters from the walls of the building. Moreover, it must be installed lower than the level at which the basement is located. Due to this, wall drainage optimally protects the foundation from moisture ingress. Most often, this type of drainage is used in areas where the composition of the soil is heterogeneous.

Scheme and principle of operation

Despite the variety of drainage systems, they all work on a similar principle and have similar designs. The drainage scheme can be represented as a closed system of pipes connected to each other. As a rule, most types of drainage systems are installed lower than the level of the base of the building. In order for the perimeter of a private house to be well protected from moisture, it is best to install the drainage system at an angle. With this solution, the water will drain well without lingering.

Before you start draining water, you should definitely find out at what height the groundwater is located. This is done as follows: a layer of earth is dug out at a depth of more than two meters, and then the condition of the soil is assessed.

In order for the water to have a place to accumulate and then be removed from there, a well is made in the corner of the building, from which a pipe system is laid to drain water outside the site. If the drainage is arranged correctly, then the basement and basement will not be wet and damp. Otherwise, you need to identify where the mistakes were made. To improve the quality of the drainage, you can install an additional waterproofing system.

How to do it right?

Properly arranging a drainage system with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is best to start with preparatory work. To do this, the terrain is first studied, the composition of the soil is determined, and the level of groundwater is assessed. After that, work is carried out to prepare the foundation of the structure. To do this, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the base. Then dirt is removed from them, as well as layers of heat and waterproofing.

The cleaned foundation is subject to mandatory drying. By itself, the foundation will dry out in 5-7 days, and in good warm weather it can be faster. Also, for drying, you can use mechanical means such as a heat gun. Such tools allow you to speed up the process up to one day.

As soon as the foundation is dry, a layer of waterproofing is applied to it. As the latter, polyethylene or bitumen can be used. And only after that the drainage system is installed.

For strip foundation

To properly equip the drainage for the strip foundation, you must follow a number of rules. Then the installation of the drainage system will not be difficult, and the result will be amazing.

• You need to start by digging a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench must be greater than the depth at which the foundation lies. At the bottom of this trench, the so-called drainage cushion with a height of 30 centimeters necessarily lies. The pillow should consist of 15 centimeters of coarse river sand and 15 centimeters of fine-grained gravel. It must be tamped and well spilled with water.
• The piping system is laid directly. Drainage pipes must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, such as bitumen or polyethylene. In order for the accumulated moisture to have a place to drain, a well is installed with drainage outside the boundaries of the site.

For a monolithic base

Making a drainage system for a monolithic base is more complicated. The main feature is that the drainage system is laid even before the foundation is erected. This allows you to protect the base of the building in case the ground shifts. Particular emphasis should be placed on quality construction works drainage. After all, this affects how strong and durable the building as a whole will be. First you need to prepare a special pit in which the drainage system will be installed. The depth of the pit is calculated based on the location and height of the foundation.

A layer of brick battle is poured to the bottom of the foundation, and then a layer of sand and fine gravel. After that, the entire pillow is carefully compacted. Drainage pipes must be reinforced using special ceilings. Geotextiles are used to seal the surface of pipes. In order for the accumulation and removal of water to occur, it is necessary to dig a well from which the pipe will extend beyond the site.

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the closed drainage system is optimal, in the arrangement of which there are many secrets.

Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction misconception ( peculiar to people without experience, but with money) is a substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A well-insulated foundation still needs a drainage system! The reason lies in the depths of your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the level of groundwater.

Of no less importance is the relative height of the site on the ground - the smaller it is, the more relevant the device of drainage around the house with your own hands is. Rainfall and external soil permeability also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account even before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form of basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the stage earthworks, when digging a foundation pit for a house. All other schemes for the removal of melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a sprawling shirt, although for objectivity we will consider them.

How to make drainage around the house - mounting options

There are only three of them, and the first two are carried out with big reservations. They carry a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

• Open variant. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on its own site, which is fatally reflected in the impressiveness appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
• Backfill option. The same open ditch, but covered from above with rubble, cinder blocks, rubble and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but the technical operation of the filling system is fundamentally impossible. In case of emergency blockage of the drainage, it will be necessary to open the entire ditch, and localize problem area will have to on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if looking for a treasure;
• Closed variant. It is carried out by drainage pipes, it is safe and effective, it allows Maintenance and various arrangements. We will consider it in more detail: how to make drainage on the site with your own hands through buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

How to make drainage on the site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

• Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable ... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite extended - every 15-20 cm, at least 5 mm in size. Manufacturers rely on the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and the asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
• Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means that they are fragile, they can be damaged even at the stage of transportation and storage. However, some types of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to increased moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, in place. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
• Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not need perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture is collected through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is provided with a significant diameter of pipes;
• Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and effective over a long service life - 90% of the drainage work in private homes is done by them.

Drainage around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step by step instructions with practical advice how to make drainage around the house, consists of the following steps for its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step by step diagram

Step 1: surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drain well. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogging of the soil will also not be superfluous. With the flat nature of the site, the presence of tall grass and other external complications, theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - you can’t attribute it to items of constant construction necessity.

Ditches around the house should have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture will go through our drainage, with fine sand and loam, inner surface pipes will eventually become covered with plaque. So you have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the amount of earthwork, but will serve to the benefit of the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digging

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself should exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. they still dig it out "with a margin" sufficient for laying pipes. For the excavation stage of work, an acute bayonet shovel, the shovel assistant will not be superfluous - for lifting the soil up.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked with a bubble level for compliance with the required slope.

Step 3: backfill and cover

At the bottom of our trench, crushed stone of fractions of 10-15 mm is poured - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is laid on top and rammed. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be precisely maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually poorly recognized, especially in a narrow trench. Again using the level, the uniformity of the slope is important for the long-term gravity flow of water in the drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench with the approach to the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side is covered with geotextile, this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips, we make a wide overlap. From above, we again fall asleep crushed stone, already of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: finally drainage

Drainage pipes are laid on the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are isolated special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the backyard.

A line of pipes is pulled to inspection and drainage wells and check by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error is easy to correct. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be filled up.