How to make a box for plastic windows. Sealing of plastic windows. Waterproofing with special tapes

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and By by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies in the price of their windows immediately include their installation - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is the installation so complicated plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary Consumables. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
• The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
• Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
• When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of fixing plastic windows

Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are calculated by horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metallic profile(pos. 7). This element etc idae T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)

- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the device window slope PVC panel. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos . 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the cross-sectional shape of the profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window differ, but still the typical scheme remains the same.

More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.

• Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.

A. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
• The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one when large sizes windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Flaws:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master This - extra problem , since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from sight.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, measuring the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid extra, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.

So the measurement is done like this:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude IN, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.

An important structural element is a substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and inner wall plus the desired protrusion of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a direct opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - A).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. WITH. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening, which arose due to the shrinkage of the building.

Preparing Instruments and Consumables

While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

	Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood saw
	Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-Compressed Self-Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil
	Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape		Mounting foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.First of all, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blank window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, A, IN And WITH.

A- distance from the inner corner window frame to fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.

IN- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is planned to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Mounting foam: best option- purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, for the use of which you will need a special gun. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. At correct installation the cracks, if any, are very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old fasteners of the hinges (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - the impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there
	After that, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last vertical leg of the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides at the place of the future installation of the window sill, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order at the time of registration so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

• First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

• is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

• It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from working area so as not to accidentally damage it during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

• The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.

• Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from the bottom with the usual lock connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If there is a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.

The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.

Installation and fixing of the window in opening

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. Can you give one good advice- temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if there is an opportunity to purchase them, then it will be ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the "with unpacking" method, experienced craftsmen it is not uncommon to practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.

… followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the method "without unpacking"

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window needs to be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. She needs to be protected from sun rays and from excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.

But in any case, it is recommended to start by covering the foam with a diffuse membrane from the outside - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro- and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installing a window sill and tide

A. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.

To make it easier to understand, an example diagram is given. correct installation window sill and tide. Pay attention to location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.

• Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel inserted into its intended slot on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.

The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working state.

• Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
• If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.

In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.

Finally, detailed Video instruction for installation plastic windows. Read, look, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

How to insert a double-glazed window into wooden house? It is necessary to take into account the features of the building material: timber and logs have the ability to “sit down” due to inevitable drying. Because of this, certain requirements must be observed when installing windows.

When can I put windows in a wooden house

Installation of windows in a wooden house can be started only after the initial completion of shrinkage.

After assembling the “box” itself, it usually takes at least six months before the start finishing works, and the windows are installed at the very end, when the main shrinkage is over.

However, in the future, the house will still “sit down”, this process continues for at least 5-6 years.

In the first year, the shrinkage rate of a log house is approximately 3-5 cm for every three meters of wall height. That is, a two-story building with a height of one floor of 3 m can sink by almost 10 cm in a year, and such changes cannot be ignored when installing window frames.

Both plastic and wooden frames are installed in wooden houses, each option has its own characteristics.

If the windows are left unprotected, then after one or two years the falling wall will begin to squeeze the frame: this will lead to its deformation. The window will open worse, over time it may even jam.

When designing, it must be taken into account that the window opening must be several centimeters higher and wider than the required window size, this is necessary to install the casing (it is also called a pigtail). It performs several functions:

• The pigtail takes on the load, protecting the window frames from damage, while it will not allow the logs of the house to move.
• It strengthens the window opening and contributes to a more durable and reliable installation of windows.
• At the same time, thanks to a special fastening, it does not interfere with the shrinkage process. The pigtail is installed so that a gap remains between it and the upper crown, which will gradually close. This allows all natural shrinkage processes to take place.

How a pigtail is installed in a log cabin

Installing a window in a wooden house with double-glazed windows is not as difficult as it might seem. In such a building, any frames can be installed: now metal-plastic is increasingly being chosen, which is supplied with decorative overlays that imitate wood. You can also choose wooden frames, this is an opportunity to create the most environmentally friendly house, the walls in which will be reliably protected from mold.

Wooden double-glazed windows in the house are installed using the most simple option pigtails: used for this wooden beam with a section of 50x50 mm. A groove of the same size is made in a log or in a beam, and casing is inserted into it. This allows you to do without rigid fasteners that would interfere with the shrinkage process.

If it is required to install metal-plastic windows, another casing option is used. In this case, a spike is made in the log (it is also called a comb), and a window carriage is already placed on it. Carriage - a beam with a cross section of 150 by 100 mm, at the ends, protrusions for horizontal jumpers are cut out.

We put double-glazed windows in a wooden house: the first step will be the creation of a casing. It is mounted like this:

1. The lower jumper is mounted in the window opening.
2. The window crest is covered with insulation, after which gun carriages are stuffed on it. An important requirement: carriages cannot be fixed with self-tapping screws or any other connecting elements, otherwise the casing will become useless. It should provide the possibility of calmly lowering the logs as they dry.
3. From above, the carriages are closed with a jumper between it and the wall should remain at least 7-8 cm. The remaining space can be closed with boards or other material that can be gradually removed to free up an opening for shrinkage. So that cold air does not penetrate through the gap, they are additionally covered with tow.

Further double-glazed windows in wooden frames or in plastic profile installed according to technology: they will be just as reliable and durable. Wooden windows in any case, they will have small gaps, this is provided for by the design itself. Plastic windows will ensure a completely sealed connection between the frame and the window sash.

Additional installation features

A window frame for wooden double-glazed windows should be installed in any case, even if the house has been assembled for a very long time. Throughout its service life, wood remains a living material that noticeably reacts to changes in humidity or temperature. Because of this, shrinkage will gradually continue, even if the building itself was built many years ago.

It is especially difficult for owners of old houses to make a decision. If it turns out that the house was built a long time ago, and there are no pigtails in it, you will either have to expand the window opening, which requires considerable effort and accuracy, or the glazing area will decrease significantly.

It will be necessary to install not only the casing, but also re-close the gap between the frame and the wall with mounting foam. This is not only an additional cost, but also a big hassle associated with finding specialists.

Put modern windows in a wooden house it is possible with full preservation of their reliability and functionality. But at the same time, it is necessary to comply with construction requirements that take into account all the features of wood as a wall material. Buying a dried log or lumber provides a significant reduction in shrinkage, but the house remains "alive" and some height changes will still occur.

Nowadays, you will not surprise anyone - they have been mounted for a long time and everywhere. Meanwhile, consumers constantly complain about poor-quality work. It is logical to assume that unscrupulous installers are to blame. But in reality, everything is not so simple.

Recall how the technological chain is built in the window business. Manufacturers of PVC system profiles supply their products to processing companies that manufacture and install windows.

A small video commentary on the choice of a plastic window profile: Which PVC profile is better?

At the same time, there is no consensus on the technology of installing windows. The stumbling block turned out to be the assembly seam, or rather, the method of its execution.

Reference: mounting gap- the space between the surface of the wall opening and the box of the window (door) unit. Assembly seam- an element of the junction, which is a combination of various insulating materials that are used to fill the mounting gap and have the specified characteristics. The definitions are taken from the current state standard GOST 30971-2002.

It would seem that there is regulatory documentation, which should be followed, - GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of mounting nodes adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General specifications” and GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". However, according to federal law No. 184-FZ "On technical regulation" dated December 27, 2002. GOSTs, and with them SNiPs and other technical regulatory documents, have moved into the category of recommendatory literature. Only those norms that are directly related to safety are accepted for mandatory execution. And as a result, organizations involved in the installation of windows may, on quite legal grounds, not comply with the provisions of GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007. And if the client insists, he will be politely offered to pay double.

However, the situation is not hopeless. The fact is that GOSTs become mandatory if it is written in the contract or project (that is, these documents indicate that installation must be carried out according to current state standards). On the other hand, if an organization does not recognize GOSTs, it must still work according to some regulatory document that is accepted as mandatory within this organization. Another thing is if the client signs the contract without reading it. Unscrupulous companies only rely on this. If a conflict situation arises regarding poor-quality installation, the indignant client will be told something like this: “You yourself wanted all the windows in your house to be installed in one day, and gave your consent to all our actions!”.

Why do some window companies dislike the current (but, unfortunately, optional) regulations? An explanation is needed here. GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007 prescribe to fill the mounting seam with heat-insulating mounting foam, and to protect it from the weather, use a vapor-permeable self-expanding tape (PSUL). To fulfill these requirements, you need to prepare the opening - level it, and fix weak surfaces with a primer. But such preparation refers to general construction work, and window installers seem to have nothing to do with it. So they put windows in crooked openings. As a result, mounting gaps have different widths, or even a zigzag shape. It becomes problematic to close such, so to speak, cracks with tape. If PSUL cannot be used, the mounting joint is plastered as a last resort with a vapor-permeable weather-resistant cement-based composition (and in winter time- fast setting cement-polymer mixture). Another option: the mounting seam is closed from the outside with a vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, and then a flashing is installed (such products are included in the systems of all leading manufacturers of plastic windows).

Before ordering new windows, it is worth at least in general terms to study the features of their manufacture and installation. When communicating with employees of window companies, it is necessary to clarify all controversial points regarding quality assurance installation work. And most importantly, you need to protect yourself legally when concluding a contract. Be sure to insist on the inclusion of items relating to regulatory framework. Any statements that the contract is standard and cannot be rewritten already indirectly indicate that not everything is in order with the standards in the company.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of windows in winter:

If the windows were installed incorrectly and after some time puddles appeared on the window sills, or the slopes became damp and moldy, or the sashes stopped opening, you must immediately file a claim, and if necessary, go to court. Effective support can be found in the Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights and expert organizations. Independent experts will figure out how technically justified the regulatory documents are (if not state standards), which were guided by the unlucky company that manufactured and installed the window. And besides, the consumer will receive an official conclusion about the violations committed during the installation of the window structure. In court, this argument can be decisive. By the way, the chances of winning the case and getting the money back are very high.

The junction of the window block to the wall opening also includes a part of the enclosing structure, in the opening of which the window is mounted. For example, if you put a product with a box mounting depth of 58 mm in a brick wall opening with a thickness of 2.5 bricks (610 mm), then in winter, under certain conditions (high humidity in the room, slightly warm radiators, poor ventilation), there is a high probability of freezing walls in the field of the assembly seam. To prevent this from happening, you need to insulate the slopes. In this case, it is desirable to exclude the use of drywall. An air chamber is formed under it, in which condensate actively accumulates. Moisture penetrates the plasterboard finish and destroys it. Better to use plastic slopes with insulating inserts or sandwich panels. At the same time, it is desirable to mount windows with a wide frame (120 mm) in brick walls, which provides an increase in temperature on the internal slopes. At the same time, the window block is moved inside the room, the window niche is reduced, which improves the convection of warm air near the window surface. In addition, the mounting seam expands, which means that its resistance to heat transfer increases.

A vapor barrier tape should be laid on the inside of the mounting joint; it will not allow vapors to penetrate into the thermal insulation foam and prevent the formation of condensate, and hence the moistening of the insulation.

You should also make sure that the installation of the window itself is done correctly and the window will not fall out under wind loads.

And after everything that you have already read and watched, let's move on to the actual common mistakes installation of plastic windows:

	Quarter of the opening brick wall laid out unevenly. As a result, when installing the window, a “torn” gap was formed. The mounting foam was not protected in time. Under the influence of the sun, rain and snow, it gradually collapses.
	Here, the mounting foam was cut off, and the seam was lightly painted with sealant. It is clear that such sealing is of little use, and soon "foam insulation" will not be good.
	There is a disregard for the requirements of working with window acrylic sealant. Under external influence, he shrank and exfoliated. As a result, depressurization of the assembly seam occurred.
	There are no complaints about the window on the left. But a product was installed nearby that did not fit the size of the opening. Perhaps this is due to an incorrectly laid out quarter. True, this defect would have been noticed and taken into account in the manufacture of the window. Another explanation is that the owners purchased a finished window for the occasion. The gap was filled with styrofoam and foamed. At the same time, the area of ​​​​the glazing of the opening was reduced. In addition, the mounting seams remained open. If they are not closed, the thermal insulation will be destroyed.
	And this is an example of “unheard of generosity of installers. They not only applied sealant to the assembly seam, but also “painted” the slopes at the same time. In other words, they disfigured an already not very aesthetic facade.
	With an impressive facade and an elegant window, a filling cord made of foamed polyethylene (vilatherm type) does not fit in any way. Such cheap insulation is made from a recycled product. The material is also used for thermal insulation of window openings. In this case, the vilaterm should be inside the mounting seam, and not protrude beyond its borders.
	Another example of a careless attitude to mounting foam, which, apparently, was left in the care of the owners. At the same time, the vertical seams are done decently. Even PSUL is glued.
	One has only to wonder how barbarously the installers disposed of these openings. The old windows were torn out, new ones were installed in their place without preparation. And no one took care of the seams and finishing of the slopes.
	Window hole left to chance. Without proper finishing, the steel lintel rusted. the heat-insulating insert fell out of the foam, and polyurethane foam almost collapsed.
	The builders "forgot" to put the casing. When the log cabin shrinks, the logs will put pressure on the frame, which can lead to difficult opening of the doors, deformation of the profile, and even destruction of double-glazed windows.
	. If you buy a low-quality product, then instead of a dense, finely porous filling, you get such a “fluff”. It is better not to take risks and buy foam from trusted brands in stores and supermarkets.
	And in this case, the insidious condensate “tried”. True, there are no windows here. Obviously, the owners decided to force things and started finishing the house in winter. In a waterlogged atmosphere, with insufficient ventilation and not yet debugged heating, condensation moisture accumulated on the cold slopes, which provoked the appearance of mold.
	During installation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the PVC profile. This window is out of luck. Probably, the fasteners were placed too low (the norm is not lower than 15-18 cm from internal corners boxes). The block was installed at a positive 20-degree temperature. The cold snap caused the plastic to shrink, and as a result, the profile broke.
	So that the metal tide does not rattle when it rains, it is laid on mounting foam. But without proper protection from the sun and atmospheric moisture, sound insulation will soon turn into dust.
	The window was placed not on special mounting wedges (and not even on wooden "blocks"), but directly on two layers of foam, "glued" with mounting foam. Under its own weight, the window block will sag. And the “defenseless” stand will collapse.
	The installers sealed the seams, but left a hole at the very low tide. Through it, water will penetrate into the seam, and then drain onto the slopes. Until the owners figure out what's wrong.
	The builders forgot to install steel tides, which provide effective removal of atmospheric precipitation. However, perhaps they acted on the orders of short-sighted owners or, even worse, an architect ignorant in such matters. The consequences were not slow to make themselves felt. Water, as you know, wears away stone. Decorative cladding the slopes have already cracked in some places. Double-glazed windows are not washed by warm air (standard radiators cannot be installed under the windows). As a result, they fog up even at positive temperatures.
	This opening was treated cruelly. Not only did they fill everything they could with a very strange liquid foam, they also didn’t remove the drips from the window frame and wall. And most importantly - thermal insulation window opening not secured.

The installation of new plastic windows certainly requires special attention, since if the installation technology is violated, the desired result cannot be achieved. Although the windows themselves can be of very high quality, the way they are installed and the materials used in sealing have a significant impact on the overall efficiency of a new product. To be able to create and maintain comfortable temperature conditions in your house or apartment, and even at any time of the year, you can hope only if the waterproofing of plastic windows was correctly performed during installation.

Preliminary waterproofing of PVC windows

With a huge variety of building materials, very few of them are successfully used in waterproofing plastic windows. Often, waterproofing is performed only partially or some time after the installation of windows, or the sealing of slopes and window sills is generally postponed indefinitely.

Advantages and disadvantages of polyurethane foam

It is generally accepted that after installing windows, the voids between the window frame and the opening are filled with polyurethane mounting foam. And this is logical, since foam has several advantages:

• unpretentious to the nature and quality of mating surfaces;
• well insulates the room;
• performs tight sealing;
• protects from excessive noise;
• successfully takes over and distributes mechanical stress for a long time;
• compensates for the wind load.

On a note: Today, you simply cannot find anything more convenient and more effective than foam for the initial stage of window installation. This must be acknowledged.

But it turns out that mounting foam alone cannot constantly cope with the effects of weather factors, and after some time, even after a few years, it may begin to lose its properties. Here is what can happen to this sealing material if it is not protected from the outside:

1. Open polyurethane foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation after a certain period begins to darken and crumble.
2. Foam is not a waterproofing agent in the literal sense, which means that it itself needs to be protected, especially from freezing precipitation in the winter season.
3. Dry foam, when the temperature changes during the day and with the change of seasons, somewhat changes its initial volume. Such fluctuations in volume, especially with a foam layer thickness of 8-10 cm, can occur in the range of 5% or more. The minimum change in size, depending on the external temperature, is also characteristic of the plastic window frame itself. As a result of regular compression-expansion cycles, this can lead to technological gaps. , cracks and penetration of through air flows . This disadvantage most often makes itself felt when the installation of the window was made without the use of a rigid mechanism for attaching the frame to the wall.

Common waterproofing options

In order to prevent the foam from turning into powder under the influence of direct sunlight, frost and water, after preliminary waterproofing of PVC windows, performed using mounting foam, it is advisable to plaster the outer slopes as soon as possible after installing the windows, applying at least a minimum layer of cement-sand mortar to them or other plaster composition for outdoor use. The plaster will accurately prevent direct rays from hitting the foam, and protect it, although not completely, from moisture and drafts.

There is another simple sealing option - the joint between the window and the wall on the outside of the window, right on the surface of the foam, can be treated with silicone sealant for outdoor use. For some time, it can indeed be an obstacle to moisture, but in harsh weather conditions, the sealant layer will have to be replaced with a new one from time to time.

Complex methods of waterproofing plastic windows

Waterproofing with special tapes

Consider what a more reliable and somewhat more difficult option implementation of waterproofing of plastic windows. To prevent the penetration of unnecessary moisture into the living space and protect the mounting foam from destruction, it is necessary to take care of something even at the stage of installing windows. What is it about? Let's consider in order:

• before starting the installation of the window, along the perimeter of the outer edge (not the end) of the frame, a pre-prepared self-expanding sealing tape made on the basis of polyurethane (PSUL) is glued. This material is impregnated with additives to maintain its elasticity for a long time. PSUL, if desired, instead of a frame, can also be attached to the window opening itself, to that part of it that will be in contact with the outer front surface of the plastic profile;

• a butyl rubber waterproofing tape is applied to the end of the window frame along the perimeter, after which the frame is mounted in the opening by securely fastening it with hangers to the surface of the slopes;

• at the next stage, if the distance from the opening to the frame is significant, you can glue the same waterproofing tape on the wall. This will serve as additional protection against moisture itself and moist air penetrating through the wall;

• only after gluing the protective tapes from the outside and along the end (possibly along the wall) is the frame blown with mounting foam. With this installation technology, fresh foam can only expand inside the room, since the outer edge is protected by PSUL, which prevents foam from protruding. In this case, the expandable sealing tape will protect the polyurethane foam layer from the damaging effects of UV radiation during the entire life of the window;

• now we wait until the fresh foam fills the entire volume of the window cavities by expansion and hardens. After the foam sealant has completely dried, the excess protruding into the interior of the room must be carefully cut off with a sharp construction knife;

• further finishing of slopes is carried out at the discretion of the owner. It can be performed cement mortar, putty mixtures, drywall, plastic and even ceramic tiles. It depends on the nature of the premises and the requirements of the customer;

• after the completion of the main volume of finishing work with slopes, the angle formed between the window frame and the slope can be treated with a waterproof sealant, finally blocking the access of moisture and outdoor air to the room. A thin layer of sealant will hide microdamages that appear at the joints as a result of frame expansion due to changing temperature conditions.

Waterproofing with the use of water repellents and liquid rubber

In recent years, the use of water repellents is gaining popularity - compounds of an organic nature that include silicon in their composition and have water-repellent properties.

The water repellent solution is applied to the treated surface, as a result of which a hydrophobic film is formed on it, which does not prevent the penetration of air, but prevents moisture from entering the room. The film is invisible to the eye, does not spoil general form and is able to perform its function for a long time.

In similar situations, one can use liquid rubber, consisting of a two-component cold-type mastic made on bitumen. It has been successfully used on concrete, wood, stone and even metal surfaces. The material is characterized by high elasticity and excellent waterproofing properties. Its price is quite high, therefore, only those who really appreciate reliability and quality, and are ready to make financial sacrifices for it, can have it.

It is possible that very soon new universal and even more reliable means for protecting plastic windows from moisture and drafts will appear on the building materials market, but for now, the skillful use of existing products already provides excellent results.

Video about sealing and waterproofing windows

Sealing plastic windows is a process of processing internal and external seams, which allows you to get rid of gaps and cracks through which cold air enters and warm air exits. Window sealing is an integral part of repair work and is performed at the stage of cosmetic finishing of the window opening.

The tightness of modern plastic windows is ensured by seals, additional sealants (mounting foam, etc.). In the role of seals in window structures are special rubber gaskets, often having a tubular shape. They are installed in the space between the frame and the sashes, around the entire perimeter of the window.

Seals are designed to protect the structure from moisture penetration, cold air, dust, noise. Manufactured from specialized rubber designed exclusively for such purposes. Often silicone or rubber plastic can be used instead of rubber. Among all these materials, it is silicone that is most suitable for use in areas of sharp temperature changes, especially in areas with a fairly cold climate, since only silicone has a consistency that does not allow it to harden from exposure to low temperatures.

The most common are window structures in which two sealing circuits are involved at once. One circuit is located on the inside, the other is oriented to the street. In luxury metal-plastic windows, three sealing circuits can be involved, which significantly increases the level of soundproof sealing of such a window (however, it has practically no effect on other indicators specifications). It is this narrow focus, coupled with increased cost, that makes the use of a third seal quite inefficient and unpopular.

In addition to seals, another method of sealing window metal-plastic structures is also used. This method consists in the so-called blowing with polyurethane foam of all joints and cracks between the wall and the surface of the window frame. Among the advantages of this sealing method, we can confidently name the following: availability of application and low pricing policy, the ability to evenly distribute and receive quite serious wind and other mechanical loads, good thermal insulation, additional safety net of the window structure from distortion and damage.

However, the inept and excessive use of this method is fraught with not very pleasant consequences:

1. Polyurethane foam quickly collapses or deforms under the influence of sunlight and a large amount of moisture. It must be protected from light with a layer of paint or plaster, and water-repellent paint and silicone sealant will perfectly protect it from moisture.

2. Inexperienced foam users often forget to cut off dried excess. This is fraught with the possibility of deformation of the base layer, and, in addition, produces an extremely unaesthetic spectacle.

3. Not so long ago it became known that under the influence of temperature, even a long and reliably dried mounting foam can change in the total volume (from 5% to 10%). As a result of this periodic change in volume, with a joint width of approximately 10 cm, the so-called “walking” of the window frame (in the region of 5 mm) is noticed, and this, in turn, can lead to a violation of the integrity of the locking mechanisms. window fittings. The window, depending on the weather conditions of the current season, may either not open or, on the contrary, not close. In addition, this can lead to damage to the surface layer of plaster adjacent to the window. In accordance with this, the installation of a window on foam cannot fully prevent the expansion of the window frame structure directly with foam, and is not able to provide rigid fastening of a PVC window in the opening.

To avoid many problems, it is recommended to seal the entire external seam located between the wall and the frame surface. If it is possible to open the window sashes, then it is more than possible to reach the seams, but when this is not possible, it would be best to seal the seam immediately before installing the double-glazed windows.

Today, the ideal sealant for window structures not yet invented. The main difficulty, according to many experts, lies in the fact that the surface of the wall adjacent to the window is mostly uneven. In addition, there is another pressing problem - a skewed opening, which causes the width of the seam, located at different junction points, can often fluctuate around 5 cm. If such a phenomenon is observed, then it is recommended to first plaster and then paint, in order to giving maximum elasticity, a seam located at the junction with the frame. For a relatively even opening, in which the joint width does not exceed 15 mm, it makes sense to seal with silicone sealant, you can also use polyurethane (self-expanding) sealing tape(also PSUL). This method is quite effective and technologically advanced, but at the same time, it is very expensive. The use of PSUL for the most part makes sense only for sealing canopies, in the case of glazing balconies and loggias. Due to low cost, as well as due to high adhesion to concrete, in other cases the best option will use silicone paste sealants.