How to make slopes on plastic windows yourself. Installation guide for plastic window slopes. Technology for leveling plastic slopes in the video

On one PVC installation frames with double-glazed windows work with a window opening is not completed - for it you need to create a frame, both from the outside and from the inside. There are several ways to do this, differing in the materials used and working methods. Do you want to learn more about them and understand how to make slopes on plastic windows? Then here you will find enough detailed description of these methods with step-by-step instructions for performing work.

But first, let's look at several reasons why it becomes necessary to mount slopes on plastic windows.

First reason– protection of the frame edges and polyurethane foam on which it rests from damage by moisture and temperature changes. Without slopes, the installation seam of the window will begin to gradually collapse and become unusable.
The second reason– protection of the window opening from cold, rain and drafts, quality slopes made of metal, plastic or any other material will provide reliable thermal insulation at the mounting seam and will not allow water to penetrate inside. Also, the slopes partially play the role of sound insulation.
Third reason- decorative. A plastic window in an opening without slopes does not look too beautiful both from the inside and from the outside. Therefore, it is framed with metal, plastic, drywall or plaster.

On a note! There are four main types of slopes for plastic windows: metal, plastic, plasterboard and plaster.

Among the many available ways of glazing balconies, frameless is considered the most elite. The design contains a minimum number of elements, but each of them is subject to the highest quality requirements. Read more in.

During the construction of private housing in villages, towns and suburbs, slopes made of metal have become very popular. This is largely due to their advantages over other materials.

Before proceeding to the description of the steps for installing metal slopes, consider the tools and materials necessary to complete this work. For your convenience, they are summarized in the table below.

Table. Installation of external metal slopes - tools and consumables.

Name	Why is it necessary
Roulette	Taking measurements
self-tapping screws	Fasteners for a metal slope. It is desirable that the color of the hats match the color of the product.
screwdriver	Fixing and tightening screws
Long cue ball for self-tapping screws	Working with metal slope fasteners in hard-to-reach places when mounting the start profile
Set of drills for metal and concrete	Creating Holes in Slope and Wall Elements for Fasteners
Scissors for cutting metal	For fitting metal slopes to the dimensions of the window
Sealant and mounting gun	Processing joints between individual elements of the slope, as well as between the slope and the plastic window
Construction knife with retractable blade	Cutting the packaging of metal slopes for a window

Important! Also, do not forget to prepare a work table large enough, on which it will be convenient to cut. individual elements metal slope. In addition, if the upper boundary of the opening is high, take a stepladder.

Now let's move on to a direct description of the steps that must be performed to install external metal slopes on plastic windows.

Step 1. Unpack the set of slopes on plastic windows. Check if all its components are in stock and without marriage. In this case, the kit consists of fasteners, a lower ebb, one upper and two side slopes, starting profiles for them.

Step 2 Measure the width and height of the window opening. In this case, one must also take into account how correctly the window is installed - in some cases they are mounted in a plane that is not parallel to the outer wall of the house and the finish. A similar factor must be taken into account when adjusting the lower ebb and other slopes further.

Important! It will also be useful to “try on” the individual elements of the slopes on plastic windows by installing them in the opening without fixing.

Step 3 Transfer the measurements to the lower ebb, which, as a rule, is initially slightly larger than the width of the window opening. You will subsequently cut this part to the desired size, formed side “ears” at the edges.

Step 4 Using scissors for metal, cut the lower ebb along the width of the window opening, while leaving the “ears” in the shape of a trapezoid at the ends. Then fold them up as shown in one of the photos below. Also leave a triangle on the outside of the ebb during the trimming process - it will cover the corner of the opening.

Prices for construction scissors for metal

Construction scissors for metal

Step 5 Check if the bottom flashing is now the right size for the window opening. If everything is in order, mark the holes for the fasteners and drill them (if they were not made in advance, as on the product from the example in the photo).

Step 6 Align the lower ebb in width and fix it in the opening with self-tapping screws.

Step 7 Try on the F-shaped starting profiles on the side surfaces of the window opening - do they fit in height. Mark with a pencil the place to which these products reach in height.

Step 8 Install the starting profile on the upper horizontal part of the window opening, which is necessary for fixing the upper bar of the metal slope.

Setting the start profile

Step 9 Insert the appropriate slope element into the upper starting profile and secure. If necessary, pre-cut the part with the formation of "lugs" necessary for reliable fixation of the side starting profiles in the opening.

Important! Factory-made metal slopes, as a rule, have a special polyethylene film that protects the product from scratches and other damage during storage and transportation. When installing, remove the film from those surfaces where it will be impossible to get rid of it later. Peel off the rest of the film from other places only after the installation of the slopes is completed - this way you will reduce the chance of accidentally damaging the elements during the work.

Step 10 Using the vertical "lugs" on the upper and lower elements of the metal slopes, fix the starting side profiles.

Step 11 Mount the left and right slopes on these starting profiles, fix them with self-tapping screws or metal rivets. Then, if desired, seal all joints and crevices with sealant to completely eliminate any possibility of water penetration to the window frame.

Video - Exterior window trim with metal slopes

Internal plaster slopes for a plastic window - step by step instructions

When finishing plastic windows indoors, the owners of houses and apartments have a desire not to resort to plastic or metal products - these stand out too much inside the room and are more suitable for the outside. In this situation, the slopes are made of plaster - it can later be painted either in a neutral White color, or to match the design of the living room or kitchen.

Important! Keep in mind that stucco slopes are inferior in terms of durability to plastic / metal flashings and trims and that they are not suitable for rooms with a high level of humidity.

Step 1. Protect glass and frames from plaster by temporarily sticking a plastic film on them. Also, in some places it is advisable to use masking tape - this way you will free yourself from the need to subsequently clean the window from pieces of plaster that have fallen.

Step 2 Using a pencil, make initial measurements of how the plaster will be applied. The mixture should partially cover the plastic window frame itself - this will minimize any possibility of a draft. In this case, plaster slopes are also made at dawn - the surfaces are located at an angle, expanding from the window into the depths of the room. In this way, the best illumination of the room is achieved.

Step 3 Complete the marks using laser level or its usual bubble counterpart. In this case, it is necessary to indicate several points for screwing in the screws and drill holes there - the fasteners will become a kind of substrate for beacons installed in the middle of the opening planes.

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Step 4 Treat the surfaces of the window opening with a primer, preferably in two layers. It will provide a better "seizure" of the plaster with the main wall.

Step 5 Prepare beacons for insertion into the opening. In this case, purchased factory-made products are used, which are quite cheap, but at the same time very convenient to use. Cut them to the appropriate height or width of the window opening.

Step 6 Prepare a sufficiently dense and good solution for attaching beacons to the surfaces of the window opening. On each of them, apply a few "cakes" of the mixture with a spatula. Then mount the beacon, using the caps of the self-tapping screws that were screwed in earlier as a substrate - the metal product will not go further than them. Slightly drown the beacon in the solution.

Step 7 By the same principle, install the beacon on the top of the window opening.

Step 8 Mount the “formwork” along the perimeter of the window opening, along which the edges of the surface with the “dawn” will be aligned. In this case, the master applied the old rule for these purposes, fixing it on self-tapping screws with dowels.

Step 9 Prepare the plaster mixture for the formation of slopes. Stir all its components in a bucket using a mixer or a drill with a special nozzle.

Step 10 Make an initial sketch of the plaster on the surface of the window opening, but without much leveling - just form required amount sweep on the top and sides.

Step 11 Take a wide spatula and, leaning it against the plaster, the lighthouse on one side and the rule on the other, even out the mixture and make it smooth. Repeat this operation with the other sides of the window opening.

Important! Before the mixture dries completely, craftsmen often remove metal beacons so that they do not remain rusting inside the slopes. The grooves remaining after this are rubbed with a mixture and smoothed out with a spatula in the same way as in the previous operation.

Step 12 Small parts and work out defects with narrow spatulas. After that, you can leave the plaster to dry. Then remove the protective plastic film from the window. The final touch is painting the new plaster slope in the desired color.

Video - How to make slopes yourself. Slope plaster

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Plastic slopes on a wooden window

One of the most commonly used ways to make internal or external slopes on a window is with plastic panels. Let's take a quick look at one of the most simple ways their installation - using the starting and other profiles. Such slopes made of plastic can be successfully used both for internal and for exterior finish PVC windows.

Step 1. Cut off excess mounting foam in the opening, which will prevent the installation of slopes. Then determine the dimensions of each surface in order to prepare segments of starting profiles exactly according to the obtained values.

Step 2 Cut, according to the data obtained in the previous step, the segments of the starting profiles of the appropriate sizes.

Step 3 Fix the starting profiles on the screws along the entire perimeter of the window opening.

Step 4 Try on the corner profiles, joining their ends with the starting ones. Measure the desired length and cut the product. Then dock it with the starting profiles at the corners of the opening, but without fixing it with self-tapping screws.

Step 5 Mark points along the edge of the opening opposite the frame (in this case, the edge facing the room), drill holes in the wall in these places and insert dowels. Profiles framing the plastic slope from the inside will be fixed on the latter.

Step 6 Install profiles framing the inner edge of the window opening. Fix them to the dowels mounted earlier with self-tapping screws.

Step 7 Insert plastic panels between the start, corner and frame profiles. For better wall mounting, first apply mounting foam in a zigzag line. To seal the joints between the panel and the profiles, seal with sealant.

Slope of drywall sheets - step by step instructions

Another option for slopes on plastic windows is from drywall sheets. Such a design comes out quite strong and durable, plus - suitable for painting. But at the same time, it has a considerable mass, and its installation requires some skills in working with this material. As a rule, such slopes are used if both the walls and the ceiling in the room are also finished with drywall.

Important! Slopes made of drywall grades that are resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity can also be suitable for exterior decoration of a window opening.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the window opening and calculate the slopes of what height and width you will need. Cut the drywall sheets so that their edges are at an angle - this is necessary for gluing the material into corners, which then act as slopes for the plastic window.

Step 2 Dust off the angled edges of the drywall strips and then join them together to create a finished vertical or horizontal slope for the window opening. In order for the product to retain its shape during the foam curing process, tie it with adhesive paper tape as shown in one of the images below.

Step 3 Near the edges of the window opening, install a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Fix it well, because the design will take on the main load from the plasterboard slopes.

Step 4 Fill the space between the frame elements with mounting foam. It is also desirable to apply it to a narrow strip between the frame and one of the metal profiles.

Step 5 Install the drywall slope, level it in height/width and check the position with a spirit level.

Step 6 Finally fix the drywall slope in place with the appropriate self-tapping screws.

Step 7 Repeat the previous two operations a few more times and install drywall slopes on the remaining surfaces of the window opening. After that, they can be painted in a color that matches the finish of the rest of the room (or the facade, if we are talking about working on the outside of the house).

Now you are aware of how to install slopes on plastic windows from the outside and from the inside with your own hands, and with several different ways. Choose one of them based on both your own preferences and practical considerations.

Slope- this is part of the window opening, framing the window around the entire perimeter. The slopes are final stage in the installation of windows and give them a finished elegant appearance. When replacing windows in your apartment or house, you need to take into account that the thickness of modern plastic windows is less than the thickness wooden windows installed during the construction of the building. After replacing the window on the internal slopes around the perimeter of the window, an untreated strip with a width of 5 to 30 cm remains, depending on the design of the building. The slopes after installing the window must be processed so that the opening has a complete look.

Slopes must be installed the next day after foaming the gaps between the wall and window block when the mounting foam hardens. Some of the types: plastering, from prefabricated materials (gypsum board, plastic panels).

Slope plastering.

When choosing plastering slopes, it is better to use gypsum dry plaster. It belongs to quick-drying, stirred with a construction mixer. It is applied in a thick layer, unlike cement-sand, which is important if you have to cover up deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand mixed with cement mixture at the rate of ½, if necessary, applying a layer of more than 3 centimeters. This will make hardening much faster. External slopes must be treated with a facade starting putty mixed with water-repellent additives. If these are plastic windows, then thermal insulation will also need to be carried out before plastering. Otherwise, in the cold season, the glass will fog up.

The plaster is applied in several layers, each layer after application requires drying. At the first stage, spot application (cloak), then apply the primer in 2 layers. At the end of the final layer. The next layer of the mixture is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. After that, the surface is puttied, getting rid of irregularities. If it is necessary to apply another layer of putty, then the previous layer must be primed. The last layer is the finishing, finishing putty. As it dries, it becomes lighter. The next step is grinding, it is carried out using a grinding machine.

The remaining gaps are filled with a paintable sealant. The junction is cut by 2-3 mm with a clerical knife at an angle of 450. The resulting recess is primed. Using a gun, the surface is covered with sealant so that the groove is completely filled. The bead of sealant should be as even as possible. To do this, apply masking tape. The sealant is leveled with a small rubber spatula then the masking tape is removed.

A primer is applied to the finished slope with a brush in order to prevent cracking. The last step will be staining, this can be done using solvent-based enamel. But recently, acrylic paint has been used. Finishing slopes takes place in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried. All these steps will take about a week.

Plastering window slopes

Let's consider two ways of slopes from drywall.

We glue plasterboard slopes.

The easiest option is gluing GKL cut out according to the parameters of the opening, which are glued directly to the base slope. True, this method requires some preparation of the base: the slopes must be cleaned of the old coating (paint, plaster, whitewash, etc.) and be fairly even. Only in this case, the material will be able to adhere well to the base.

For gluing drywall, use a special glue for drywall (you can find it at any hardware store). The glue is applied to the base of the slope not over the entire area (in a continuous layer), but pointwise: the distance between the places where the glue is applied is at least 100 mm. If applied in a continuous layer, the glue will dry for a long time.

Important! If you decide to glue drywall slopes, check the vertical and horizontal of each slope element. After gluing, the horizontal slope is fixed with spacers that are installed on the floor or window sill. They can be dismantled in an hour! The glue dries completely in 1-2 days. Only after that, the holes on the sides are sealed with putty.

Installation of drywall slopes on the frame.

The first stage, a mark is made of the final position of the vertical and horizontal slopes, then the thickness of the drywall is subtracted and another position is noted - for attaching the guide profile. The guide profile is attached around the perimeter window frame(with the exception of its lower part) with self-tapping screws to its very edge. Same metallic profile fastened with dowels to the base surface. To fasten the profile to the window sill, self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long are used.

GKL elements cut to the measured dimensions are mounted on the frame using 9 mm self-tapping screws. Before installation, it is desirable to foam the inside of the slope with mounting foam - between the base wall and the gypsum board. After that, putty side part slopes, as well as the place of attachment of drywall to the frame. Next, the surface of the slopes is primed and painted.

Drywall slope

PVC slopes.

Using a tape measure, you need to measure the length and width of the slopes. Taking into account these data, three strips are cut out of the sandwich panel: the top (parallel to the window sill) and two side strips.

The starting profile is cut according to the size of the slopes, resembling the letter P in a section. It is fastened with self-tapping screws exactly along the edge of the window profile. The distance between the screws is approximately 10-15 cm. In this case, first of all, the profile should be installed at the top, while the side elements are brought close to the top, leaving no gaps.

The top panel is inserted into the starting profile already fixed with screws. After that, 4 more parts of the starting profile are cut off, the length of which is determined by the width of the slopes. The segments are brought into the side starting profile at the top and bottom on both sides, fixed with self-tapping screws to the top of the sandwich panel and to the window sill, respectively.

Next, we attach the guides for the side slopes of the sandwich panels. Further, a sandwich panel strip is installed from the starting profile into a kind of structure fixed from three sides (along the window opening, at the top of the sandwich panel and at the bottom of the window sill). Similarly, the process of working with the panel on the other side is completed. As a result, the plastic slope is almost ready, and it remains only to give the appearance of the outer cuts.

To give a finished look to the plastic slope, use the "F" profile, or as it is also called, the slope cover. The profile is cut into strips of the desired length, based on the following calculations: slope length + profile width for the side parts and slope length + 2 profile widths for the upper slope.

It is advisable to leave the length longer than required, since in the end the excess will still be cut off, but the lack of even one centimeter will require complete overhaul. Next, the slope cover is snapped onto the cut edges of the sandwich panels. In the corners at this stage, the outer strips overlap.

With the help of a ruler and a pencil, a cut line is outlined, along which the excess edging is cut off. The result is neat right angles.

* it is possible to install slopes using a sandwich panel without using a starting profile. In this case, the strips of sandwich panels are wound up close to window profile 1 cm deep with step-by-step foaming of a niche for fixing the slope. This process is more time consuming than using the "P" profile, but the result is more aesthetic.
*on request, the joints are treated with liquid plastic. But you can do without it.
*most masters specializing in these types of finishing work exclude this stage. In this case, the strips of sandwich panels are simply attached to the top strip and to the window sill. The gap at the joints is closed with a special tool - liquid plastic, which, when hardened, acquires the same characteristics as ordinary plastic. There are also negligent workers who use ordinary sealant, and after a short time the slopes lose their appearance: the joints treated with sealant darken and become dirty. Either of these two methods reduces the time of work and the consumption of materials, and has its supporters and opponents. Therefore, the choice of option is a matter of taste.
*if it is planned to finish only one slope in panel house, then in order to reduce costs, strips of the required dimensions can be purchased from the seller without buying a whole sheet of sandwich panels.
*For many slope installers, this is the final stage. However, it is preferable to fill the niches between the sandwich panels and the wall with mounting foam. To do this, the "F" profile prepared for installation is temporarily dismantled. The voids are filled with foam, the next day the excess is carefully cut off, and the slope covers ("F" profile) are returned to their places. Thus, additional heat and sound insulation is created in the apartment.

Installation of PVC slopes

Laminate slopes

After replacement and installation of double-glazed windows, window openings need to be finished. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then run Finishing work everyone can. This process has a simple technology, so installing plastic slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels are mounted in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

In order to qualitatively install the slopes, you should clean the surfaces of the opening well and prepare all the necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and correspond in length and width to the parameters of the opening. Too thin plastic will not last long, moreover, it can be easily damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels for work, you will need:

You can start finishing not earlier than 36 hours after the installation of the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not work to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, the pieces of the film are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film must not protrude beyond the window frame. After that, proceed to the manufacture of slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed along the outer edge of the window frame with short self-tapping screws. At the corners, when connecting a horizontal bar to a vertical one, the profile is fixed so that its inner walls fit snugly against each other, without gaps and cracks.

Step 2. Fastening wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

They take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. With the help of driven dowels, the rails are fixed around the perimeter with the flat side to the surface so that their edges do not go beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side rails must be set horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not even enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting slopes

Very accurately measure the length and width of the walls of the opening, as well as the angle of the bevel on each side. Cut lines are marked on the panel and, using a jigsaw or a sharp knife, slope blanks are cut out.

By the way, about the plastering of slopes with your own hands - you can read on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the upper part of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not block the groove for attaching the slope. Fix the profile on the rail with stapler staples. The rest of the segments are mounted in the same way.

The blank of the upper slope is laid in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with a sealant. Holding the slope on the weight, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with a heater. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is brought into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to align the panel.

Next, side slopes are installed, carefully distributing the heat-insulating material. If the outer walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base base of the slopes are filled with mounting foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, as excess foam can squeeze out the panels or arch them. It is desirable to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The places where the panels fit together and to the window sill must be well degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean cloth soaked in acetone, wipe off traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, plaster the area of the opening under the windowsill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The process of their installation is slightly different from the installation of window slopes. The surface of the opening is prepared in exactly the same way: the hardened foam around door frame cut with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If it is planned to fix the slopes on the surface itself, it should be leveled with a cement-sand mortar. If will be used frame technology, it is enough to seal cracks and deep recesses.

For work you will need:

Step 1 Mounting the frame

Measure the width of the walls of the opening from the door frame to the corner line. Reiki is sawn into pieces according to measurements. On the side walls with a pencil mark horizontal lines at a distance of 50-60 cm. According to the marking, holes are drilled for dowels and the rails are fixed. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the rails. 3 transverse bars are attached to the lintel - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Panel cutting

Cut lines are marked on the panel with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is especially carefully measured, because the mismatch of the joints is not always possible to close up imperceptibly. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to close the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one on the lintel. After that, the blanks are attached to the walls of the opening and the correctness of the cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, on the back side of the workpiece, mark the fold line with a pencil. With a sharp knife, a vertical cut is made in the cavity of the panel, leaving the front side intact. The slope is again applied to the surface, leveled and screwed with small screws to the frame.

When the main part of the slope is fixed, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, retreat from it 2 cm to the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed on, setting the screws at the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, dense wooden corks can be used.

A second side slope is installed, after which it is sheathed with a lintel panel. The top edge of this blank should overlap the ends of the side ledges; after installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The internal seams are smeared with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, if desired, the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on the door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
after that, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

In conclusion, vertical seams are sealed, and along the outer perimeter of the opening, decorative platbands are attached to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows

As a rule, slopes are made of a similar window material. That is, when the windows are PVC, then the coating for the slopes is taken from plastic. If the frame is wooden, the slopes are also such. However, these are only abstract ideas about “right” and “wrong”, so you can do it the way the owners of real estate like in a particular situation.

In addition to the main materials, auxiliary materials will be required - those that are needed for fastening the elements (self-tapping screws, mounting foam). From measuring instruments to determine the symmetry and correct installation, a level and plumb line will be required.

When the preparation of materials and devices is completed, do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows begins.

The feasibility of plastic slopes

The basic rule that ensures integrity window construction and its protection by slopes - sealing. She gets the most attention. In addition, it is very important to ensure that there is no leakage of air from the outside, which can enter at any time of the year. In winter, this will be especially noticeable. Also, water seeps through cracks and cracks. It not only accumulates indoors, but also destroys the materials of the window structure.

You need to install the slopes on plastic windows with your own hands carefully, so that the seams are not noticeable, and all elements are symmetrical. The main thing is to maintain one angle of inclination. If in a particular case this cannot be done, then the installation should take into account the same steam meters on the vertical sides - left and right.

Installation of slopes on plastic windows can be carried out using the following materials:

metal;
plastic;
plaster;
tree.

In some cases, manufacturers offer sophisticated variations made from other wear-resistant compounds.

Plaster is a familiar material, but its use can hardly be called expedient. In terms of wear resistance, plaster is not at a high level. In winter, it can burst, as the wall is cooled by the effects of frost from the outside, along with this, it also heats up when heated inside. And if the coating becomes unusable, it ceases to perform protective functions. The result - the slopes quickly deteriorate and the window is left without protection.

Installation PVC slopes on plastic windows is faster and easier than in the case of using plaster. Polyvinyl chloride is a durable material, an almost universal coating that is used everywhere in the repair industry and in the direction of manufacturing a variety of household items. PVC is a strong, wear-resistant material that does not burst or crack. All that is required of a person is to install the slopes correctly, closing all the gaps and doing the job carefully.

Before PVC applications sheets were taken from drywall. This material is afraid of moisture, but plastic is not, it does not get damp and therefore does not collapse in a humid environment.

Metal also deserves attention. However, compared to PVC, it is not so profitable to use it - it bends, it is difficult to install, it needs to be painted or another decorative coating applied.

Proper installation of slopes on plastic windows made of wood can also be done. Wood is quite suitable material, but it is usually used for wooden frames or in houses that are built of wood.

Thus, we can conclude: the most suitable material for arranging PVC windows is plastic.

Compared to the other materials mentioned above, PVC has the following advantages:

long service life;
full combination with windows made of similar PVC material (no need to look for a coating from the same manufacturer);
aesthetics;
Smooth surface;
ease of hiding flaws;
flexible platbands can be used;
installed slopes are ready-made (no need to paint, varnish, etc.);
the work is inexpensive, you can do it yourself;
you can start work on the installation of slopes within 12 hours after attaching the window to the opening;
the work is carried out quickly - you can easily manage it in a day, despite the fact that part of the time will be required for the foam to dry;
clean work (no construction debris, dust and dirt);
no need to look for special equipment, only standard tools are required;
PVC surface is easy to clean;
panels are offered not only in white, but also in other color solutions;
it is not necessary to level the material - when correct installation it will look nice and smooth anyway;
retains heat well and allows you to enhance sound insulation;
can be insulated;
protects from moisture, does not collapse from exposure to it.

Self-installation of slopes on plastic windows made of PVC material allows you to protect the wall from freezing.

How to install slopes on plastic windows so that they not only play a protective and aesthetic function, but also allow for a lower rate of heat loss in winter time? The right solution is insulation.

First of all, each gap must be filled with mounting foam. However, this material is only suitable if the gaps are large. If we are talking about small cracks, then they cannot be ignored. They are not blown out with foam, for this purpose another good sealant is used - acrylic. It is durable, lasts a long time, is not afraid of moisture.

Also, the installation of sandwich slopes on plastic windows can be accompanied by fixing polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Sometimes you can buy a simple foam rubber. In any case, regardless of what type of material is relied on, a strong film must also be used, which will create insulation. Fix the edges of the film with construction tape so that there are no gaps. Of course, the lower part of the slopes must first be cleaned well - this is the basic rule of installation as a whole.

The installation of external slopes on plastic windows is not accompanied by insulation - this is only relevant inside, since moisture will quickly affect the structure of the insulation, so it will collapse and a gap will form inside.

Also, when warming, it is important to pay attention to the sealing of all seams. Structural elements must fit snugly against each other and be fixed to each other.

When choosing a heater, do not forget that its characteristics must correspond to the size of the window opening. In some cases, the thickness of the coating cannot be large, therefore, they are limited to thin plates found on the market.

If the use of foam is relevant in the process of insulation, then the joints of the opening must be pre-treated cement mortar. All cracks in these places are filled with this material. Next, the foam is laid out, covered with a film on top.

If the installation of slopes outside on plastic windows requires mandatory insulation, then only extruded polystyrene foam can be used for this. An important condition is a tight fixation to the surface so that water does not seep inside.

Attention! Proper insulation carried out around the entire perimeter of the structure. Choosing only one of the parties is impractical.

For installation, you will need the following tools and materials:

sheet plastic 8 mm thick (average quantity - 6 meters);
P or F shaped PVC starting strip;
wooden lath 1-1.5 cm;
drill or perforator;
level, plumb;
metal scissors;
self-tapping screws;
construction foam;
acrylic.

How to install slopes on plastic windows:

using sandwich panels;
using drywall, on which durable PVC sheets are fixed;
made of pure PVC foam.

Sandwich panels are easy to use, they are inexpensive and last a long time. Their characteristics and performance are quite high, they meet the requirements for slope coverage.

How to install plastic braids on windows yourself:

Using an electric saw or ordinary metal scissors, the sheet is cut into certain segments. Of course, measurements are taken first, a pattern is made from a sheet of wallpaper, and applied to the installation site. It is better to put the dimensions on the drawing on paper.
The starting profile must be fixed with dowels in the window opening. This is best done at the stage of window installation.
The slopes are attached using galvanized brackets, with adhesive tape, both sides of which are adhesive.
Brackets are attached to the window using self-tapping screws.
The slopes are attached to each other.
Slots and corners are covered with sealant, it is possible to use corners.

You can install plastic slopes on windows yourself using the following method:

First, drywall is installed on the fasteners.
By using liquid nails, which, in fact, is a special glue, plastic sheets are attached. Glue should be applied a little - a thin strip.
Installation is carried out according to the rules of the upper method - all cracks and other deformations are carefully filled with foam or acrylic. Acrylic is marked for small gaps.

The first method is usually used - it is simpler and takes less time. Also, so that the slopes are neat and after the foam dries, it suddenly does not turn out that it has raised the edges, you can use special tape, which will fix the right places. The tape is sticky, it is removed a day after application.

The installation of wooden slopes on plastic windows is carried out according to a similar principle, only it is taken as a basis wooden material. The big difference is that the wood (plywood) is not fully prepared. Usually it is covered with varnish and other protective materials on some sides. Your task is not just to cut the coating, but also to create an even cut with sandpaper. Therefore, the size of the slopes is initially made 1 cm larger than necessary.

Outside work

How to install an external slope on a plastic window is easy to understand. This process differs little from indoor work, but there are some nuances.

Masters advise to use sandwich panels. Three elements are being prepared, which are cut with a circular saw or metal shears. Naturally, you need to measure all indicators well. The elements should be placed symmetrically and be the same - any errors will be visible.

Installing slopes on plastic windows from the street does not imply the need to apply a large amount of foam. First, fasten, then blow out all the cracks with foam. It should not be much, otherwise the plastic will be taken in bumps.

Installation of metal slopes on plastic windows is also carried out on foam. They need to be painted, but this is the last stage of work. They begin mounting from the very top - from a horizontal element, then attach the sidewalls to the wall. The last action is the connection of the parts of the slopes to each other.

Before mounting the sidewalls, spacers are placed, then fixation takes place with the help of self-tapping screws. Installing external slopes on plastic windows is a simple process, but if the room is on the top floor, this causes a lot of difficulties.

It is important to note that in the process of carrying out work, it is necessary to adhere to symmetry. You can check how evenly the elements are fixed with a level and a plumb line. Also, evaluate the situation “by eye”, look before fixing it with self-tapping screws if there are any errors.

So, we looked at how to independently install slopes on plastic windows. It remains only to emphasize that the reliability of fixing elements depends on the quality of surface preparation. They need to be cleared old paint, in some cases, the application of a primer is required.

How to install slopes on plastic windows with your own hands: video

The window installation process is coming to an end and you are already in anticipation of a new one. appearance premises? However, do not forget about the slopes, without which it is clearly impossible to get an aesthetic picture. How to make slopes on plastic windows? How difficult is it to do it yourself? You will receive answers to these questions by reading the article.

As a result of reading our article, you will have the same beautiful window

Why plastic slopes

Currently, plastic slopes are becoming more and more in demand. One-piece design that fits into any interior quite harmoniously, low cost and ease of installation, allowing you to do all the work yourself - these are the main competitive advantages plastic panels.

There are two ways to make plastic slopes with your own hands:

by using start profiles;
without using the start profile.

Start profile method

Method without start profile

The starting profile allows you to install slopes as evenly as possible, which, in turn, will affect the correct shape of the window as a whole. In addition, its use in the construction of slopes allows you to get a strong hermetic connection. However, there are times when using the start profile is quite difficult or even impossible. For example, if the distance from the wall to the frame is too small.

Advantages

The advantages of slopes made of plastic include the following factors:

low cost;
fairly long service life;
a wide range of colors and as a result the ability to decorate any room;
ease of care, because dirt is perfectly removed from the plastic with a damp cloth;
quick and easy installation;
Possibility of use both indoors and outdoors.

Flaws

The disadvantages of plastic slopes include exposure to high temperatures. In addition, if for some reason a crack or hole appears on the plastic, you will have to change the panel completely.

The choice of panel thickness for slopes

For clarity of the process, we have prepared for you a scheme for finishing the slope in the “section”

If you have made your choice in favor of plastic slopes, let's figure out how to make them yourself. The first thing you will encounter is the purchase of the panels themselves. Do not choose them with a thickness of less than 8 mm. Based on the dimensions of your window opening, take panels with a small margin, especially if this will be your first slope.

In addition, you will also need the following materials:

mounting foam;
wooden blocks that will be attached to the side and upper sides of the window opening;
self-tapping screws and dowels for fixing the starting profile and wooden bars;
the starting profile itself and the F-shaped bar;
silicone in the color of plastic panels;
decorative corners;
liquid Nails.

Do not forget that slopes can be made only 36 hours after the end of the window installation. It is during this period that the mounting foam finally hardens.

Installation of slopes using the starting profile

Procedure (photos can be enlarged by clicking on them):

What to do if the distance from the panel to the wall is too large

If the distance from the wall to the future slope is quite large, it is reasonable to make another frame of wooden bars along the outer perimeter of the window opening:

An F-shaped bar is fastened to it, also with the help of building brackets.
We insulate the space between the wall and the future slope, and then insert the panel with one edge into the starting profile, and with the other into the F-shaped bar.
After that, we fix each panel to the F-shaped bar using staples in increments of 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees, install decorative corners and seal all joints with silicone.

When working with mounting foam, you should know a few features. If the surface is smooth, the level of grip will not be very good. In order to avoid this, the surface, which will later be turned to the wall, should be treated with a sandpaper and a primer. In addition, for the full polymerization of the foam, the surface must be slightly damp. For this reason, the slope wall is minimally sprayed with water.

Mounting without using the start profile

The procedure, the first steps are the same as the first method:

1. We completely clean the walls of debris and interfering foam.

2. Also, do not forget to protect the glass and frame from possible damage, for example, with mounting tape.

3. We measure the size of all external window openings and cut out wooden bars of the desired size.

Rails are fixed around the perimeter

4. We fasten the bars evenly on each side with the help of self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk a few mm into the tree.

Cutout in the foam across the width of the panels

5. Measure the width plastic panel and exactly the same amount of mounting foam is cut around the entire perimeter of the frame.

6. Carefully mark the panels (taking into account 1 cm, which will go into the foam and a little should be taken as a reserve) and cut out. For greater convenience, you can use cardboard or old wallpaper as a stencil. If the cut edge is uneven, it should be processed with a file or sandpaper.

Inserting the top panel

7. Insert the panel with one edge 1 cm into the cutout prepared in the foam, and fix it to the wooden bar with the other. The easiest way is to use a construction stapler, driving staples every 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees.

This is how it should be

8. We insulate the cavity between the wall and the slope mineral wool or mounting foam.

We fix the joints with masking tape until the foam grabs

9. We close the places of contact between the wall and the slope decorative corners fixed on liquid nails.

10. All joints are sealed with silicone.

Final view

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in making plastic slopes on your own, even if you have not worked with such material before. It all depends on availability the right tool and what is especially important - good preparation before work and accuracy of marking.

Video

1. Video method of mounting slopes on plastic windows with a starting profile:

2. Mounting method without starting profile: