Attic refers to a special type of attic space. It has quite extensive square meters, allowing you to equip an additional usable area, and do-it-yourself attic decoration photos of the finishing options are presented below, using a variety of materials.

Any interior decoration begins with the choice of finishing material. The photo shows the most popular building materials used to decorate the attic.

clapboard

One of the simplest and most economical design options is the lining of the attic. A variety of shades and a unique texture of the finishing material made of plastic allow you to create various styles interior design and luxury attic design. Due to the ease of installation, even a beginner can finish the wall with his own hands.

The disadvantages of the material include the fragility of the material and poor resistance to external influences.

Wooden lining has a unique pattern and a wonderful natural texture. Finishing material will ideally fit into any interior of the room and will help to create an atmosphere of home comfort. The material is absolutely harmless, but at the same time it can be subjected to decay processes. Troubles can be avoided if the natural array is treated with special impregnations.

MDF panels

If it is planned to equip the attic in the attic home gym or a private office, MDF panels are used for wall decoration. If given finishing material used to decorate a bedroom or nursery, the interior will turn out to be quite strict and boring. It is best to combine MDF panels with other finishing materials, such as wallpaper, plaster or paint. See the photo for interesting examples of combining materials.

MDF panels have several advantages:

• have excellent sound and heat insulation properties;
• their installation does not require preliminary leveling of the surface;
• relatively low cost;
• There are many types of material that differ in texture and color scheme. Panels can mimic brickwork, a natural stone and so on;
• ease of installation.

Drywall

Due to its excellent quality characteristics and low cost, finishing material is often used for interior decoration. Finishing the attic with drywall allows you to implement original design solutions. Under the design, all communications spoiling the interior are conveniently placed. The finishing material easily absorbs moisture, but if you use a special moisture-resistant type, then finishing the attic with drywall will last for decades.

The main advantages of the material include:

• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation;
• the ability to hide all communications wiring behind a similar design;
• excellent sound and thermal insulation qualities.

As for the disadvantages, they also exist:

• installation of complex structures requires special skills;
• the material does not withstand heavy loads;
• sheets are easily deformed if stored improperly.

Just like osb, it is used to divide a room into several private rooms. Create an exclusive design with drywall partitions shown in the photo.

PVC panels

Plastic panels for walls are particularly durable, reliable and able to withstand various mechanical loads. Quick and easy installation of the material allows you to do the attic decoration with your own hands. If the wall to be decorated has a perfectly even and smooth surface, then the plastic is glued to it with glue. PVC panels in addition to the traditional white color have a wide range of colors, which allows you to create a unique interior in the attic room.

The advantages of this material are as follows:

• wide area of ​​use;
• a wide range of colors;
• strength and dimensional stability;
• ease of installation;
• ease of maintenance.

Among the main disadvantages, it should be noted the poor tolerance of ultraviolet radiation, low impact resistance.

Block house

Lumber is a type of eurolining. Finishing the attic with wood allows you to decorate the room in a popular eco-style or recreate a traditional Russian interior. Modern paneling perfectly imitates log walls. In the photo you can see the decoration options country house. To significantly extend the life of the internal coating, it is better to process the tree special composition.

Block house has a number of undeniable advantages:

• excellent resistance to dampness and mold;
• helps to create an original and interesting design;
• positively affects health;
• helps to create a cozy atmosphere.

timber imitation

Imitation of timber is processed on both sides wooden plank small thickness. At the ends there are grooves and tongues for strong fastening of the boards to each other. To create a false beam, whole pieces of a natural array are used.

The qualitative characteristics of wooden finishing material are in many ways similar to lining. This is, first of all, the environmental friendliness of the material, ease of installation and long service life. Using false timber or OSB for interior decoration, you can create a beautiful interior, align the walls and hide flaws in the work.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the attic

Before proceeding with the interior decoration of the attic, it is necessary to carry out a certain series preparatory work. To create a functional living space under the very roof of the house, it is necessary to carry out additional insulation of all surfaces. The technology of thermal insulation work largely depends on what insulation options were used during construction.

The attic is a fairly spacious room with broken roof in which it is necessary to install modern double-glazed windows. Regular airing of the rooms will help maintain the required level of moisture.

In addition, the ceiling windows of the attic floor will help create exclusive interior interior space. A well-placed bearing beams designs. The photo shows the design options for the rooms of the upper floor.

Preparatory work

Most often, attics are equipped in those houses where the roof is broken. One slope of the roof is made steep, and the second is gentle. In order to get a functional attic from an ordinary attic, it should be slightly raised in height, around the entire perimeter of the house.

During the preparation of the attic room for fine finishing, it is necessary to carry out work on the insulation of gables and walls. This should be done only if their insulation was not provided for at the stage exterior finish Houses.

It should be noted that many finishing materials have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. These include lining, osb slabs, drywall or fiberboard. If you plan to equip the kitchen or bathroom under the roof, then it is worth allocating additional time for pre-preparation of the floor. It is better to make the floor completely airtight. To do this, a simple building structure is created with their own hands.

First of all, the entire floor surface is treated with a special waterproofing mixture. After that, an insulating tape is glued to the joints. Subsequently, a primer mixture is applied to the entire surface of the floor, including corners and joints smeared with sealant. OSB boards and the material chosen for finishing can be placed on a completely sealed and even base.

Attic insulation with extruded polystyrene foam
Attic insulation with mineral wool

Frame installation

To decorate a small attic space, you can create wooden structure. If the area under the roof has big sizes, then you need metal structure. To build a frame with your own hands, you will need:

• screwdriver or drill;
• suspensions;
• self-tapping screws;
• insulation adhesive.

If the future frame is metal, you need to have a grinder, knife and tape measure on hand.

If a metal frame is provided, then first of all, marking is carried out, then guides are firmly fixed around the perimeter of the entire floor. Vertical profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other. They are attached to the base with self-tapping screws.

If the frame is wooden, then the wooden beams must be dried before work. The slats should not be blue, black or moldy. To increase the service life wooden material processed with a special protective agent. wooden beams fastened with self-tapping screws in a similar way. A properly installed do-it-yourself frame will allow the structure to become as strong and reliable as possible.

Metal carcass
Installation of a wooden crate

Warming and waterproofing

Before you start decorating the attic room with finishing materials or OSB, the interior rooms need to be insulated and protected from drafts and moisture. Material for waterproofing houses is available in rolls that need to be cut into pieces of the desired size. To fix the waterproofing, you can use a construction stapler or ordinary wooden planks.

The canvases are fixed with a slight overlap - this allows you to create an absolute tightness of the structure. Waterproofing will not only protect the premises under the roof from moisture, but also create additional noise and sound insulation.

Most often used as a heater mineral wool. Insulation can be found in mats and in rolls. Affordable and inexpensive material won't cause any problems even if self-insulation Houses. Mineral wool is laid out in a dense layer between the frame parts. The insulation is attached with liquid nails, glue or wooden slats. The insulation should be laid in such a way that there is room for proper air circulation.

Facing

The arrangement of the attic requires a special approach to the choice of finishing materials and original design solutions. In the photo, decorators offer various design options for the attic space.

On the top floor of the house, you can create a beautiful guest room, a billiard room, a mini gym, a personal office and even a bedroom with a small bathroom. For implementation design idea You can use various finishing materials, but the most popular are drywall, wood and OSB boards.

Decor wooden clapboard will create a beautiful environmentally friendly interior in rustic style. It is not necessary to sheathe the entire room with wood, it is enough to decorate only the walls or ceiling. Decoration with OSB slabs or drywall is used less often, this construction material more suitable for creating interior partitions. In any case, after installation, the OSB surface must be painted or wallpapered. Each of the types of finishing with one or another material has a number of features.

billiard room
Guest room
Personal Area
Gym

Block house

The installation of the block house is carried out as follows:

• before starting work, the panels, as well as the beams for the crate, must be carefully treated with an antiseptic;
• panels are attached to wooden crate, the wooden bars of which must be at least 4 cm;
• panels are mounted at a short distance from the wall, which will provide good sound and heat insulation;
• after completion of work, the material should be coated with a primer and varnish.

Installation of a block house in the corners
Sheathing with a block house on the crate

clapboard

There are several options for fastening the lining:

• installation to the frame;
• fixation with a stapler in the groove;
• secret method using kleimers;
• using nails into the groove of the lining.

The fastening of the lining panels starts from the top. In order to hide the place of fixation, it is worth using kleimers, which is attached to the groove, rafters or crate. Subsequent boards are joined to each other with a tongue and groove. The joint of the last board is hidden with a plinth.

Lining installation scheme

Plywood

Work with plywood begins with the preparation of the frame, on which elements will subsequently be attached using nails or self-tapping screws. Fasteners are attached at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Attic clapboard finishing is an environmentally friendly option, affordable for every consumer, the surface has a beautiful appearance. Special property material - ease of installation, which allows you to do the whole cycle of work with your own hands. How to do this, the article will tell you.

Features of finishing the attic room

An attic is an attic that plays the role of an additional room for housing. It is most often used only in summer, it is built without insulation, and its main difference from the attic is the floor device.

Due to the location of the room under the roof, in summer it heats up much more than other rooms, and in winter it cools rather quickly. In the spring-autumn period, dampness appears most of all.

Tip: If the attic will not be used as a living space all year, then its decoration can be done in the most inexpensive way.

For lining the attic, lining is used from almost any coniferous wood.

It can be:

• Cedar- a noble tree species with an attractive texture that has a positive effect on the human body. Siberian cedar for the manufacture of lining will perfectly complement the decoration of any room.
• Pine. It is a durable and wear-resistant material, which has an acceptable price for the consumer. In the decoration of the attic, it is used as a decorative trim. More popular is the Scandinavian pine with a pinkish tint of wood, with a smooth surface that does not have knots and bumps.
• Spruce. Wood retains well appearance, protects against the appearance of mold and insects.

You can use larch. This is an elite tree, similar in its characteristics to oak. It has high strength, does not rot from prolonged use, is often used as an element of decor.

For the production of lining are taken:

• Oak. It is characterized by high strength, has the highest grade. Material:

1. does not shrink;
2. does not get wet from moisture;
3. does not rot;
4. has many shades and textures.

But the high cost does not allow its widespread use.

• Linden. It is a universal variety of tree species, which has pronounced healing properties. Linden is easily processed with improvised means, the lining from it does not have knots.

Tip: Before sheathing the attic with clapboard, you should choose the material, taking into account its purpose and the characteristics of the room.

Besides:

• For aesthetic perception, the color with which the attic is finished with clapboard is also important. Lighter colors visually expand the room. In this case, lining the attic with a clapboard is not desirable with dark types of wood, and a dark color is acceptable for decorative elements. An example of the design of the attic with light panels with dark elements for decoration is shown in the photo.

• Sheathing boards can be:

1. flat shape;
2. with decorative grooves on the sides;
3. with imitation of rounded timber;
4. with overlapping.

However, finishing with an attic clapboard includes mounting the material on a surface that is located at an angle, which does not recommend the use of flat lamellas, otherwise the room will visually appear smaller.

• Finishing the attic with clapboard can be done in two ways of installation:

1. horizontal. In this case, the laying is performed on the rafters, while it visually expands the room;
2. vertical. This requires the construction of a horizontal crate, and the laying itself raises the ceiling.

Combined installation helps to give the room a zest.

Tip: Clapboard lining of walls and ceilings should be done with insulation, even when using the attic only in summer. This will prevent bad influence moisture and cold, which can quickly deprive the finishing material of its attractiveness.

How to sheathe an attic with clapboard

Before starting the repair of the attic, clapboard finishing is carried out with the processing of wooden lamellas.

For this they:

• Impregnated with protective compounds.
• Varnished (see).

Tip: When using stain and oil, keep in mind that these compounds do not close the pores, this can lead to contamination and the need for frequent cleaning of surfaces.

The work instructions are as follows:

• Mandatory waterproofing of surfaces is carried out. For this, a film is used, which is attached in such a way that a layer of air is maintained between the waterproofing and the roof.
• The crate is raised. Depending on the method of mounting the lining - horizontal or vertical. Rafters can be used as lattice elements on the roof slopes. For this, rails are used wooden beam, the section of which is more than 15x45 millimeters, which depends on the width of the board: with an increase in the width, the section is selected more. The pitch of the fasteners is approximately 50 centimeters.
• When performing insulation, heat-insulating material is placed in the spacer between the bars of the crate. It could be:

1. mineral wool;
2. foam or foam boards;
3. fiberglass.

The material, if necessary, is additionally fixed with "umbrellas". Then a layer of a vapor barrier, such as isospan, is placed on top, fixed into the battens of the crate using brackets.

Tip: When carrying out work, it is necessary to ensure that the insulation and the vapor barrier layer are located in the recess of the cell without protruding from it. With a tight fit of the lamellas to the insulator, ventilation is very difficult, this should be avoided. It is allowed to install a counter-lattice.

• On the bars, recesses are made in increments of half a meter by half the section so that the holes are offset relative to each other. Such channels are necessary to improve ventilation.
• The lining is mounted from the bottom - up, and on the ceiling - from the window to the opposite wall, which depends on the method of laying the lamellas. When the elements are tightly joined together, it is recommended to additionally treat their ends with a sealant, and fix them to the beams with special brackets or galvanized nails. Fasteners are made into the grooved wall, and then closed with a comb located on the next board.

• When installing the initial bar, it is cut to the required size and fixed with finishing nails. In this case, the kleimer is located in special depressions and is attached to the structure or rafters. The next panel with a spike falls into the first groove.
• After installing all the elements, the final bar is adjusted in width, and if there is a gap, it must be hidden with a plinth.

It is better to process the material with protective agents in two to three years, which is associated with the greatest influence unfavorable weather conditions on this premises. In the video in this article, you can see the stages of installation of lining in the attic.

The attic of a country house, if desired, is not difficult to convert into a living space - a bedroom, an office or a nursery. At the same time, the appearance from the inside will largely depend on what kind of finish is chosen for decorating the walls, floor and ceiling.

Today there are a large number of a wide variety of materials that are perfectly suitable for this purpose. Which one should be chosen in this or that case, and how to do the attic sheathing with your own hands? We will talk about this later in the article.

Varieties of finishing materials

Do-it-yourself attic decoration can be done using only two main types of materials - traditional and modern. The traditional ones include lining, imitation of timber, blockhouse. To modern ones - drywall, plywood, cork panels, decorative plaster, etc. The choice of finishes depends largely on what style of attic design is provided for by the design project. If it is country, Provence, Scandinavian or classic, you should use traditional materials. For cladding the attic inside in a hi-tech style or minimalism should be used modern views finishes.

On a note: In some cases, the decoration of the attic floor can be performed with a derogation from this rule. For example, in a room whose interior is decorated in Provence style, it can look good decorative plaster light shade with a discreet "pattern".

Thus there are the most different variants attic finishes. The photos below clearly demonstrate exactly how this room may look, sheathed with one or another type of material:

Pros and cons of using drywall

So, how to sheathe the attic inside? Often internal surfaces when decorating this room, they are finished with drywall. The main advantage of this material is that with its use it is possible to perform a very original finish of the attic floor, arranging curved surfaces.

Attic sheathing, made using drywall, can be very original and unusual.

The only difficulty may arise when marking for sheets, since the walls of the attic are beveled at a certain angle. However, using a level, a sufficiently high-quality finish of the attic with drywall can be made. The video demonstrates the markup technique in detail:

Drywall sheets are mounted on the crate.

Important: Of course, before you start finishing with drywall, you should perform insulation and waterproofing of the roof.

As you can see, the question of how to sheathe an attic with drywall is not particularly difficult.

There are some disadvantages in using this material for sheathing the attic floor from the inside. The fact is that roof structures sometimes shift slightly as a result of shrinkage of the house or for other reasons. As a result, cracks may appear along the skin. However, the likelihood of such an outcome of events is not too high. The result can exceed all expectations.

Finishing the attic with plasterboard. Photo of the finished result

Advantages and disadvantages of lining

The main advantage of lining is its ecological cleanliness. Even more than that, wood contributes to the creation of a healthy microclimate in the room. In addition, lining the attic with clapboard will help create a special “rustic” atmosphere in this room. Walls finished with wood look unusually aesthetically pleasing. You can use the lining as for finishing the attic floor wooden house, and brick or concrete. The only drawback of this material is only some difficulty in installation. Sheathing walls with clapboard is a somewhat more laborious process than decorating with the same drywall.

On a note: To finish the attic in order to prevent cracking of wood, you should not use a lining with a width of more than 10 cm.

Sheathing with imitation timber

How to finish the attic from the inside yet? Today, for cladding rooms, you can use not only the usual lining in the form of a board. Very interesting option The design of the attic can be surface finishing with an imitation of timber - one of the varieties of this material. When using it, the walls and ceiling look like they are made of ordinary or glued beams.

Attic sheathing with imitation of timber gives the attic a stylish appearance

Blockhouse sheathing

Often attics are trimmed with a blockhouse - another type of lining. With its use, you can get a sheathing that imitates chopped walls. This allows even concrete and brick structures to be decorated in a "rustic" style. In the country, such a finish looks just great.

Finishing the attic with a blockhouse. "Sliced" walls

Important: Various options finishing the attic floor with wood allows you to get very harmonious design. However, the blockhouse, lining and imitation of timber must be treated with special compounds that reduce the risk of fire and prevent decay.

The attic can be finished with clapboard of light wood species, as well as dark ones. In small areas, it is best to use the first option.

Interior decoration attic. Photo of rooms with sheathing from dark and light lining

Other finishes

To the question of how to sheathe the attic from the inside, there is another answer - plywood. The advantages of this finishing method include not only the maximum ease of installation, but also low cost. source material. The disadvantage of using plywood for sheathing is that when the roof moves, the sheets can diverge and gaps form between them.

Sheathing with plywood allows you to perform a fairly aesthetic design of the attic

Plywood looks quite aesthetically pleasing on the walls of the attic. However, often when making it pasted over with wallpaper. Similarly, you can finish the top and drywall. In the latter case, sometimes decorative plaster is also a fine finish.

You can decorate the attic beautifully using any of the materials available for sale. The choice of a particular type of finish depends mainly on the tastes of the owners of the house themselves. With a little imagination, it will be easy to get something like this:

Technology for finishing the attic with clapboard

Next, we will consider in detail how to decorate the attic inside with a clapboard. The use of this material for sheathing requires a mandatory waterproofing of the roof. To do this, a special membrane is fixed to the rafters from the outside. A counter-lattice under the roofing material is mounted on it.

Before proceeding with the decoration of the attic floor, the ceiling, walls and floor should also be insulated. On roof slopes from the inside, thermal insulation material (usually mineral wool) is inserted between the rafter legs. On the gables under the cotton wool and lining, a crate is preliminarily arranged. Next, using brackets, a vapor barrier layer is mounted.

Before sheathing, the attic should be insulated

On a note: In order to prevent the heat insulator from falling out, a wire should be pulled between the rafters and the lathing beams.

After installing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to the actual installation of the lining. So, the lining is done as follows:

1. Before starting the sheathing, each lamella must be treated with a special compound that prevents rotting;

Before installation, the lining should be treated with special compounds

1. On the crate of the pediment and rafter legs on top of the vapor barrier material, you need to fill the counter-lattice. This is necessary for the installation of a ventilation gap. The counter-lattice will serve as the basis for the lining. In the event that the sheathing boards are located horizontally, the slats under them are stuffed vertically and, accordingly, vice versa. In extreme cases, this step can be skipped and sheathed directly on top of the film. However, at the same time, it should be ensured that the heat insulator, together with the film, is between the rafters, and does not stick out;
2. The decoration of the attic walls begins from above if the lining is located horizontally (at the same time, the elements are mounted with grooves down to prevent moisture from entering them) and from the window to the opposite wall in a vertical orientation;

Finishing the attic clapboard. Photo of the wall cladding process with lamellas. With vertical orientation, work starts from the window

1. For fastening the cladding elements, special clamps can be used, which must be installed in the groove, followed by closing them with the crest of the next board. You can also use nails for this purpose, which must be sunk into the tree. When performing open fastening, finishing nails are used. In the event that the counter-lattice is assembled not from a bar, but from metal profile, use self-tapping screws;

The slats are fastened with special clamps during sheathing.

1. Finishing the attic with wood also involves lining the window openings. On final stage they are trimmed with platbands from the same wood as the lining. Further, all joints are closed with a layout.

Important: Before starting the lining of the walls with the actual clapboard, ventilation recesses should be made on the beams of the crate by half the section in increments of half a meter, with an offset relative to each other.

In order to make it clearer to you how to decorate the attic with your own hands, we present to your attention a video in which this process is considered step by step.

So we have looked at the most different examples finishing the walls of the floor and ceilings of the attic. For sheathing, you can use both plywood and drywall or lining. Of course, finishing the attic floor of a wooden house is best done using the latest material. Thus, you can save the overall stylistic idea of ​​a country building.

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Finishing the attic: my experience in choosing solutions and materials

In the photo - the interior of the attic floor in my house.

Glazing

During the construction of the attic, I preferred panoramic glazing - windows in the full size of both gables. There were several reasons for this:

• Such glazing contributes to the heating of the room in winter. Absolutely free, I dare say, heating. It was checked in the very first winter: at a street temperature of about zero, the attic warms up during the day to +13 - +17 degrees with the heating turned off;
• Natural lighting of the room is optimal for the eyes. Panoramic windows allow you to use it from sunrise to sunset;
• The attic with panoramic windows looks much more spacious - part of the visual boundary of the room disappears;
• Finally, they allow you to admire the surrounding landscapes - the sea and the mountains. lack of beautiful views in the Crimea is not observed.

Glazing with an area of ​​26 square meters cost a total of 65,000 rubles (2013 price). Single-chamber packages with one energy-saving i-glass were installed in metal-plastic frames. After three years of operation, some results can be summarized:

1. Despite the large area, windows do not contribute to a significant increase in heat loss. Suffice it to say that during frosts (at -15 - -20C), heating of the attic with an area of ​​60 square meters was provided by one inverter air conditioner with a capacity of 12,000 BTU (4.1 kW);
2. Energy-saving glasses provide enough effective protection from the sun: in sunny days the air conditioner manages to keep the temperature within comfortable + 25C at +35 outside;
3. The illumination of the attic in sunny weather becomes excessive, and the curtains have to be kept closed for most of the daylight hours.

Entrance

In my case, the presence of a separate entrance to the attic was dictated by the architecture of the house: the attic was built on the site of a cold attic above the slab ceiling. However, as it turned out, in a warm climate, such a scheme is optimal:

• On the top floor you can accommodate guests or settle yourself at the time of their arrival. At the same time, you will not interfere with each other from the word at all: early awakening or late return home of one of the family members will not become a problem for the rest;
• The rooms remain reliably soundproofed from each other. Watching a movie or a noisy feast in one of them will not interfere with a person relaxing in another;
• The staircase does not take away the usable area of ​​the interior. Not only that: its construction made it possible to provide the attic with a comfortable balcony.

Floor

I started work inside the attic with the subflooring. OSB was chosen as its material for floating logs laid directly on the floor slabs. Purchased thickness sheet material was equal to 15 millimeters, the step between the lags was 30 cm.

Significant differences between the slabs forced the logs to be laid on stands made of scraps of boards and plywood. The sheets were stacked in a checkerboard pattern, with seams shifted from row to row, and fastened to the joists with self-tapping screws 51 mm long with a step of 30 cm.

Why didn't I cover the floor with wood - edged or tongue-and-groove board? Simply because it cost twice as much as the OSB.

The final floor was laid last, after the completion of all other work. Class 32 laminate with a thickness of 7mm was laid on a 3mm polyethylene foam underlay.

Finished flooring - laminate.

How did the floor show itself in three years of using the attic?

• Laminate is very easy to care for and endures moderate moisture - small puddles of spilled water and humidity when washing floors;
• There are no signs of wear even where the floor is constantly wiped with the legs of frequently moved furniture;
• The substrate also fulfills its functions conscientiously: the laminate does not creak when walking;
• Floating logs turned out to be a mistake. In some places, the subfloor began to creak under my weight. For the future, I concluded for myself that the logs still need to be anchored to the ceiling.

Ceiling

The finishing of the ceiling began with the filing of the galvanized CD ceiling profile for drywall to the rafters and crossbars. It was attached to straight suspensions, the step between the attachment points corresponded to the step between the rafters (about 0.9 meters). At the ends of the attic, the CD profile was inserted into a UD guide profile sewn directly to the window frames.

As a filing for the ceiling, wall plasterboard "Maestro" 12.5 mm thick was purchased. I did not dare to use a thinner and cheaper ceiling, since the sloping attic ceiling ends at the side walls at a height of only 1.9 meters and can be subjected to mechanical stress. GKL was fastened with phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a step of 15 cm.

The last step was puttying with ABS Saten gypsum finishing putty (by the way, it left a very pleasant impression). Instead of the traditional sickle, I used rolled fiberglass to reinforce the seams. The procedure was as follows:

1. Each seam was puttied twice (gypsum putty gives a slight but noticeable shrinkage);
2. The seam was then roughly sanded with a #80 mesh clamped in an oscillating sander;
3. After grinding, the gypsum board was swept with a brush to remove any remaining dust;
4. Then, fiberglass was glued onto the PVA glue diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1. For the convenience of the sticker, I cut it into strips about a meter long;
5. After drying the glue, the fiberglass was covered with another layer of putty.

The plastered ceiling was painted with latex white water-dispersion paint. I had to paint in four layers: with a smaller thickness of the paint layer, the base was translucent. Of course, each layer was applied with a roller perpendicular to the previous one, and the last one was applied parallel to natural light (along the attic).

Over the past time, no cracks along the seams, characteristic of gypsum boards, have appeared; the ceiling looks the same as after the completion of the work.

Walls

How to finish the inside of the wall? In a wooden house, I would not hesitate to sheathe them with the same drywall without a frame, but in this case it was not suitable. The frame of the side walls consisted of racks under a break in the rafters with a step of 90 centimeters. GKL to them could only be attached to the crate from the profile, which meant an undesirable loss of usable area.

Finishing the attic with OSB slabs with their subsequent varnishing and installation of wooden flashings was discussed, but was rejected for aesthetic reasons. In the end, the choice settled on 15mm plywood, followed by wall cladding with MDF clapboard with textured vinyl.

By the way: if you are thinking about how to decorate the attic in the country except for lining, take a closer look at plywood. Covered with varnish - transparent or tinted - it looks very impressive. The seams between the sheets are closed with thin slats in a contrasting color.

Plywood was hemmed to the walls with self-tapping screws; fine finish attic clapboard was made without kleimers, screws and nails: the panels were glued to silicone sealant.

By the way: it turned out to be most convenient to cut the lining and laminate with the help of a grinder with diamond disc. It gives a narrow and most accurate cut. At the same time, unlike an abrasive disc, a diamond disc does not overheat the cut edges and does not cause the material to burn.

How did the do-it-yourself pasting of the walls with clapboard look like?

1. The panel is cut to size of the wall section;
2. Sealant is applied to it with a step of about 15 cm pointwise or in short strips;
3. The panel is pressed against the wall and is pressed at the top and bottom by a pair of slanted boards with weights piled on them (I used barbell discs);
4. While the silicone dries, the next panel is cut (taking into account the length of the segment remaining from the first);
5. A sealant is applied to the new panel, after which it snaps into the tongue-and-groove lock of the previously glued panel, pressed against the wall and again supported by a pair of boards;
6. By the time the third panel is attached, it is possible to rearrange the supports from the first: over the past 10-15 minutes, the silicone has time to securely grab.

The adjoining of the walls to the ceiling was decorated with foam ceiling plinth, covering the remaining gaps between drywall and MDF panels. It was glued to the universal glue "Titan".

A little trick: after applying the glue, the plinth should be pressed into place, then removed and held for about a minute, and then pressed again against the wall and ceiling - this is completely. The instruction is related to the fact that liquid glue allows the plinth to slide down under its own weight, and thickened glue will hold it.

Part of the space between the side walls and roof slopes was used for cabinets and niches. All of them are made from the remnants of plywood and edged with a plastic corner.

The junction of the walls with the floor is decorated plastic plinth with cable channel. The plinth is used for distributing electricity; all sockets, except for the supply instantaneous water heater in the bathroom, located directly above it.

Based on the results of three years, the wall decoration has shown its practicality: the lining has completely retained its appearance, including the area at the head of the bed. There are no scratches or other damage on its surface.

Partition

The attic was divided into two rooms (according to the number of windows) - an office-living room and a bedroom. The partition is made of plasterboard, the frame is made of CW rack profiles and UW guides with a thickness of 50 millimeters. Puttying, reinforcing the seams and painting are completely identical to those for finishing the ceiling.

I designed the junctions of the jumper to the side walls with a sticker of a universal plastic corner 25 mm wide. He, like the lining, was glued to the sealant. For the time of silicone setting, the corner was fixed with plywood scraps nailed with thin carnations.

Installed in the partition frame metal-plastic door with a somewhat unusual double-glazed window - mirrors on both sides. Such a door visually expands the room and allows the female half of the population of the house to make sure of their own attractiveness at any time.

bathroom

Location

The toilet and bathroom in a private house are traditionally located near the outer walls and are equipped with skylights. However, the location at the gables is not always convenient, and in my case (I remind you that both gables are panoramic windows), it was completely impossible.

The combined bathroom was placed in the middle of the attic, equipped with forced exhaust ventilation laid over false ceiling, and a light window leading to the hall.

Floor

It is customary to make the floor of the bathroom concrete, laying an insulated screed over the slab. I did differently:

• On top of the subfloor mounting foam laid sheets of DSP 25 mm thick and pulled them with self-tapping screws. The foam in this case was used as an adhesive, it binds the layers of the floor;
• Tiles were laid directly on the CSP. I used Ceresit SM-17 flexible tile adhesive.

The design is quite viable. The floor has sufficient rigidity and does not play under the weight of a person. There were no leaks either, although water periodically spilled onto the floor.

niches

The space between the vertical side wall and the roof slope was also used in the bathroom. It has a couple of niches for household chemicals, toilet paper and other little things. The walls of the niches are plasterboard, fixed on a profile frame; I laid the same tiles on the shelves as on the floor. The edges of the shelves are decorated with a plastic corner.

Apron

The tiled apron over the bathroom was glued somewhat unusually - on silicone sealant. Silicone was dotted on the back surface of the tile, then it was also used to seal the seams. There are no leaks, for three years not a single tile has tried to peel off. Moreover, I have serious suspicions that now the tiles can only be removed with a fragment of a plasterboard wall.

Plumbing

Installed in the bathroom necessary minimum plumbing fixtures – acrylic corner bath and a floor-mounted toilet bowl with a lower cistern. The water is diluted with plastic pipes. Used for heating flow heater Atmor Basic 3.5 kW.

Separate mention deserves the connection of the shower and the tap for washing.

For them, two side-mounted water folding cranes were purchased. Both taps are installed on the bathtub shelf at its different ends. Instead of the gander of one of them, the thread on the case is supplemented with a 3/4 - 1/2 inch adapter, to which a flexible liner is connected. The second supply nut is connected to the inlet pipe of the flow heater.

Sewerage is brought out into the street in the gap between the side wall and the roof slope. The sewer pipe runs right along the facade of the house and ends in the septic tank. The climate of Crimea allows such liberties: the average January temperature in Sevastopol is above zero.

The only incident related to plumbing happened in winter, when a sewer pipe laid along the facade froze in an unusually severe frost. To fix the problem, a self-regulating heating cable was purchased quickly and decisively. Repeated frosts did not create any problems.

Ventilation

If you plan to finish the attic in the country, and the cottage is visited only in summer, opening windows with mosquito nets are quite enough for ventilation. I had a different situation: it was necessary to provide round-the-clock and year-round ventilation with constant, independent of the strength and direction of the wind performance. Of course, it was made compulsory.

An ordinary plastic sewer pipe was used as a venkanal. It is fixed with clamps over the crossbars. truss system and brought out through the top of one of the gables above the window. To prevent water from flowing through the pipe, its last section is fixed with a slight slope from the wall; the corner at the end of the ventilation duct is equipped with an umbrella-deflector located just above the level of the ridge.

A duct fan with a diameter of 100 mm and a capacity of 105 m3/h is inserted into a compensating branch pipe installed in the pipe break. The ceiling under the branch pipe is equipped with a plywood hatch on self-tapping screws with window insulation glued on top of it. The hatch and pipe are needed to repair or replace the fan.

The ventilation power circuit is dimmed; the dimmer is installed next to the light switch in the bathroom. With it, you can increase productivity or reduce noise levels to a minimum.

A tee is located in front of the fan in the direction of air movement. One of its outlets opens into the ventilation grill in the ceiling of the bathroom, the other into the space above the ceiling. For air extraction in the bedroom and office, four more ventilation grates; they provide continuous air circulation in the space above the ceiling.

Ventilation works properly; its performance is sufficient to ensure that the air in the attic is always fresh, and perspiration does not appear on the windows.

Lighting

I shared my own experience in the field of how to finish the attic, but how to illuminate it?

The best ideas in the field of lighting are associated with the use of central and zone lights. However, in my case, light zoning was not required: the only functional area in the entire attic was my work desk, which was perfectly illuminated by a table lamp.

After some deliberation, my choice was a pair of five meter LED strips on smd 5630 LEDs powered by 12 volts.

Causes? As they say in the hero city of Odessa, I have them:

• With a luminosity of more than 1000 lumens per running meter the tape provides sufficiently bright lighting throughout the attic area;
• It does not give shadows, which is very convenient when performing any petty work(for example, when soldering);
• Finally, the tape is very economical: with a total luminosity of over 10,000 lumens, it consumes a little more than 100 watts.

Nuance: led strip with a power of over 10 watts per linear meter, it is better to glue it on a heat dissipator - an aluminum profile or any material with a sufficiently high thermal conductivity. In my case, the role of a heat dissipator was performed by ... a 10x40 mm cable channel that hides the wiring. The solution proved to be effective: during prolonged operation, the tape does not heat up above 50 degrees.

The power supply unit of the tape is removed into one of the niches in the side wall and is equipped with a pair of switches - a single-key switch in front of the PSU and a two-key one after it.

In addition, one of the outputs of the power supply is used to connect emergency lighting - a piece of tape with a group of three LEDs. They burn around the clock and allow you not to stumble in the dark.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that my experience will be useful to the dear reader. You can learn more about how and with what materials interior decoration of the attic can be done by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

October 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

A modern person, building a house, wants to get the largest usable area. That is why attics with heaps of old things and dust are a thing of the past, and attic floors come in their place, which provide more living space and are especially loved by children.
Finishing the attic space can be done various materials but they say classic is always in fashion. That is why, do-it-yourself attic clapboard finishing is the topic of this article.

So:

• In the course of the article, you will learn everything or almost everything about lining, its advantages and disadvantages, various design solutions, combinations with various materials, and much more. It will also be given detailed instructions for finishing the lining of the ceiling and walls.

• Lining is a finishing material, which is a panel, planed from natural wood, and having a groove-groove docking system. This material is widely used for both interior and exterior decoration.
• Recently, the market has New Product, which is called eurolining. In fact, this is the same lining, but it is produced in strict accordance with European standards.
  This lining has a working surface width of 96mm. The thickness ranges from 12 to 15 mm. Length - from 2 to 6 meters.
• Among other things, this material does not need further processing, as this is done during production. Eurolining is resistant to the appearance of various types of fungi and mold, and it is also not afraid of moisture.
• Using wood indoors is a good idea. Since, in addition to the fact that it has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, do not forget that this is an environmentally friendly material.
  The smell of wood will create an amazing atmosphere of cleanliness and comfort in the room.
• Finishing the lining of the attic floor is also good because you can do all the work yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. The assembly will be within the power of even an inexperienced master.
  All you need is a set the right tools and basic skills to work with them.

Like any other material, eurolining is divided into classes or grades of quality.
There are only four such varieties:

• "Extra" - the board of the highest quality from the best wood. It does not allow the presence of knots, cracks, mechanical damage, resin pockets, rot, access to the outer side of the core, and even a change in color. The price of this class ranges from 500 to 1000 rubles per 1 square meter.
• Class "A" - here the presence of surface roughness of the board is allowed; unlimited number of intergrown dry knots; in some places ingrown bark, but not more than half of the board; several small cracks; up to two resin pockets and slight color changes. For such lining you will have to pay from 220 to 250 rubles.
• Class "B" - the quality of this board is even lower. The presence of end chips and cracks, up to three mechanical damages, processing defects, longitudinal curvature, damage to the lower part of the groove, the presence of tarred areas and three wormholes up to 5% of the entire board surface is allowed. The average price of this class is 180 rubles per square.
• Class "C" - lining of the lowest quality, having, respectively, the lowest price (145 rubles per 1 sq.m.). The presence of up to five fallen knots, through cracks, wormholes, resin pockets and blind blue is allowed.

Important! All grades of eurolining are made according to a single technology in compliance with all norms and requirements, on the same equipment. They are equally dried and processed. Marking by class occurs in the process of sorting finished products.

Types of lining

In addition to varieties, eurolining differs in the structure of the profile and the complexity of the section.
We single out the main five types:

• "Standard" - the front side of the board has straight chamfers. Its thickness is 16 mm, and the width of the surface is 96 mm (see photo 3).
• "Soft-line" (Soft lines) - differs from the previous one in that its upper and lower surfaces are strictly parallel and have rounded chamfers.
• "American" - the section of this lining has a wedge-shaped shape. When laying, it imitates the joining of boards with an overlap.
• "Block house" - a wider board, the front side of which has a cylindrical shape.
• "Land-House" - the upper and lower surfaces of such lining - are profiled.

• Separately, you can select the type of board that imitates timber. In the people it is called - "Imitation of a bar."
  The main difference is that this board does not have an intermediate groove, and its thickness reaches 35 mm.

Raw materials

Eurolining can be divided into 2 more classes, differing in the type of wood used for production:

• The first type is larch lining. The raw material is Siberian larch.
  Due to the increased resinousness and density, it has excellent resistance to decay and immunity to moisture. Also, the advantage is the absence of blue, resistance to insects and fungi, strength, beautiful texture, environmental friendliness and saturation with antioxidants, which will positively affect the health of a person who constantly breathes air in a room with larch.
• The second type is eurolining from coniferous trees. Beneficial features and the benefits of this wood are known to all. But it is worth noting some of them separately.
• More often in stores we come across a product made from Angarsk pine. The main advantages of this tree are as follows: ease of processing, good density, a minimum of knots, and saturation with phytoncides (substances that disinfect the air).
• Fir lining does not withstand the weather and is prone to infection by mold and insects. However, this wood is very soft, has a high knotiness (good texture), and the complete absence of tarry areas.
• Spruce is a dense and durable material, which, however, rots when it comes into contact with the ground. Therefore, spruce lining is used for internal works, additionally processed with special compounds.
• Cedar - ideal for outdoor work, as it is resistant to temperature extremes. It has beautiful texture with pronounced annual rings.

Separately, it should be noted the most non-budget option - mahogany lining. This material is obscenely expensive, but if you can't afford it, don't be discouraged.
Absolutely any color of wood, you can achieve using various stains.

Design Ideas

What you want to see after the repair, no one is better able to imagine and reproduce you. Job professional designers costs a lot, and not always they can guess everything that you need.
Therefore, having studied various manuals, viewing a fair amount of photos and videos, you can always create a corner of comfort in your home yourself.

So:

• Attics never differ in the correctness of shapes and angles. There are roundings, sharp and obtuse angles, trapezoidal sections, bevels, slopes, and so on.
  And all these seemingly shortcomings will become the main "chip" of the finish.
• In shaping the appearance of the room, use slopes, beams, rafters, ceilings and even chimneys. All of the above elements can be finished with the same clapboard, or with some other material, such as drywall (see Finishing the attic with drywall: installation features).

• The lining looks great in combination with other materials, whether it be facing panels, or OSB panels, or ordinary plaster and whitewash. In the next photo, you can see the attic finishing option, where the walls are made of plasterboard, plastered and whitewashed.
  Only the ceiling is lined with clapboard. The floor covering imitates wood and is selected in the same color scheme as the ceiling.

• The chimney in the center of the room is masked with a material imitating a spiral. Windows that have an unusual location also fit in organically.
  Thanks to them, the room is very bright and it becomes possible to use space along the walls for furniture.

• The combination of several types of eurolining also looks very nice. In the image above, a combination of two types is shown: "standard" - the ceiling, and "block house" - the walls.
• To obtain an original effect, entire walls, or their minor parts, can be sheathed at an angle of 45 degrees. Also, don't be afraid to experiment with colors. The right contrast will emphasize the brightness and beauty of your attic.

Eurolining installation

As we have already said, finishing the attic floor with clapboard is not too tricky. The main thing is to know the basics and some subtleties that will make your work easier.
So:

• Starting to finish, in addition to the lining itself, you need to purchase material for the frame, insulation, waterproofing and other consumables required during installation.
• The attic floor is in direct contact with the roof, the walls of which do not have necessary level thermal insulation. Also in this part of the house there is a rather high level of humidity due to the condensate formed from the temperature difference.
  In addition, no roof guarantees 100% absence of leaks.
• Before starting work, you need to take into account all these nuances and take appropriate measures.

Waterproofing

The first step is to install a layer of waterproofing film:

• A good film should not allow water to pass through, while not preventing moisture from evaporating from the inside. The most popular film is Hydrobarrier.

• With this film, we cover the walls with a continuous layer. It is fastened with a construction stapler, or ordinary nails with a wide hat.
  Additionally, you can strengthen the connection with a counter rail. Joints and seams can be additionally treated with mastic.
• The film has a front side, which is distinguished by a brighter marking.