Centralized hot water supply is a great boon that makes life and maintenance household convenient and comfortable. IN country houses and during summer shutdowns hot water come to help. They are divided into pressure and non-pressure. Experience with plumbing and electrical House master can install them by yourself.

Installing an instantaneous water heater: step by step instructions

Installation of the flow heater is carried out in accordance with the recommendations set out in the user manual. In addition, it is necessary to comply with the requirements for the safety of electrical and plumbing work.

Installation work is divided into the following steps.

Preparatory work - checking the electrical network

Flow heaters heat water as it passes through. Therefore, they consume large power - from 2 to 30 kilowatts. Before purchasing a specific model, it is necessary to find out whether the power supply network at the installation site can withstand such power.

In addition, you should make sure that the wiring is made from modern materials and has sufficient cross section. In any case, it is better to draw a separate line from the switchboard, powering it through a charge cut-off device (RCD). To connect the device to a standard 220 volt AC network, use a three-core double-insulated copper wire (type NYM or VVG) with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2 and an RCD rated for 30 A. Be sure to use grounding. If wiring is carried out on a wall that is exposed to heat, the wire cross section should be increased.

Selecting a location for installation

The mounting location of the device is determined by its type. Non-pressure type devices are installed near the point of hot water consumption in order to reduce heat loss. Such heaters are mounted on the side or top of the sink, next to the faucet in the bathroom. If the appliance is equipped with both a drain and a shower hose, a place for attaching a watering can must be provided.

Installation next to the shower and sink

Different models are available with different degrees of moisture protection. In any case, they should be installed so that the flow of water from the shower does not fall on the body. At the same time, the controls (flow, temperature and power button) should be easily accessible both when using the sink and the shower.

Pressure-type devices have high performance and electrical power. Schemes based on them are built if it is necessary to provide several points with hot water, for example:

  • kitchen;
  • bathroom;
  • shower cabin;
  • toilet, etc.

In this case, the heater is mounted next to the riser or at the point of maximum water consumption. With a large length of the supply pipes, they are thermally insulated with foam rubber sleeves. The installation location must also provide easy access for Maintenance apparatus.

General connection diagram

Flowing electric heaters are resistant to high humidity and accumulation of condensed moisture.

Wall mounting procedure

Despite the small weight and dimensions of household flow heaters (compared to storage heaters), mounting them on the wall should be taken seriously.

Reliable fastening is provided by such walls as:

  • concrete;
  • brick;
  • wooden.

Installation on partitions made of drywall, even moisture resistant, is not recommended.

It is necessary to install the device strictly vertically, without distortions. With a significant deviation from the vertical or horizontal, the electric heating element may not be completely covered with water. This will lead to overheating and failure of the device.

If special brackets or other fasteners are included in the package, their use is mandatory.

Leading manufacturers supply their products with a paper or cardboard template, on which the holes are already marked. Its use saves time and helps to properly place the device on the wall.

Mounting templates and diagrams from the manufacturer

To install the device, you will need a drill and drill bits suitable for the wall material.

The installation sequence is as follows:

  • make sure that the heater is in the "Off" state;
  • remove the case;
  • according to the template, mark the attachment points;
  • drill holes, insert dowels;
  • tighten screws;
  • install brackets or other means of fastening (if provided);
  • hang the device on the wall and check the installation angles with a level or plumb line.

Electrical connection

Important! Before starting electrical work, make sure that the cable is not energized.

Pull the end of the cable through the opening of the housing in such a way that it is not stretched and does not break inside the device. The top layer of insulation is removed by 50-70 mm. From the current-carrying conductors, the insulation is removed by 7-10 mm. These tips must be cleaned with a needle file or just a flat screwdriver and inserted into the mounting box in accordance with the designations. It is necessary to tighten the screw fasteners of the terminals "up to the stop". Reliable contact will prevent sparking, overheating and failure of the device.

As with any electrical equipment connected in wet conditions, the power circuit must be equipped with a Charge Disconnect Device (RCD). When a leakage current appears, it will instantly turn off the device, excluding severe injury to a person. electric shock. The closer the RCD is mounted to the protected device, the more efficient its operation and more reliable protection. If the heater is mounted in a private house, the RCD should be located on the switchboard closest to the heater.

Electrical connection

Water connection options

Ways to connect water to the device differ according to the place of installation:

  • Top connection. The device is mounted above the water assembly.
  • Bottom connection. The device is installed under the sink or on the side of it

Depending on the type of wiring, the connection is distinguished

  • To the pipes hidden in the wall. When connecting, the corners are first mounted, the nozzles of the device are connected to them through the “American” coupling.
  • To openly mounted.

There are two branch pipes on the body of the apparatus - inlet for cold water and output for hot.

Connection to hidden and open pipe wiring

The water heater is connected to a centralized cold water line or to a storage tank. In any case, you need to monitor the presence of water at the inlet and maintain its minimum pressure. When connected to pumping stations raising water from a well or a well, a mechanical filter should be used to purify the water.

How to install and connect instantaneous water heater

Before choosing a model and installation scheme for a water heater, you should decide on its purpose. From it flow and specifications. Below are the nuances of connecting and installing an instantaneous water heater to electrical networks and water supply in specific conditions.

In the apartment and in the country

Temporary devices of low power with a small daily consumption are suitable. They are installed in case of a shutdown of hot water in a city apartment or in a country house. summer period. For stable operation of a non-pressure device, it is mounted 2 meters above the draw-off point.

If there is no centralized hot water supply in the house or apartment, it is better to choose a powerful pressure apparatus and a hot water pipe distribution system. Such devices are designed for year-round use and require a minimum pressure in the line from 1.5 to 2 atmospheres.

In the bathroom and in the kitchen

Install low-power devices designed for a single consumer.

To mixer

A low-power flow heater is connected instead of a spout or a mixer shower hose. This scheme is used as a temporary.

To the water supply

Below is a diagram that allows you to supply consumers with hot water, both from the mains and from the heater.

Plumbing connection diagram

Electric - to the mains

One of the options is shown in the diagram. The RCD should be placed as close as possible to the heater.

Electrical connection. (SUP - feed control system)

electric per shower

Low power devices designed for a single point of water consumption are often equipped with a spout and / or a shower hose with a watering can instead of an outlet.

Shower heater installation examples

It is absolutely unacceptable to install taps or other shut-off valves on the outlet pipe of such devices. If the heating is on, it will cause overheating and failure.

Gas

If the main gas is connected to the apartment or house, the gas heater will be a convenient, safe and economical solution.

Gas appliances have great power and easily provide several consumers.

The installation of such a device requires coordination with local gas services.

Gas water heater connection diagram

Than centralized hot water supply. Each family has its own reasons for this: someone is not satisfied with the prices for hot water, someone is not satisfied with the quality of the service provided, etc. In addition, a flow boiler is a great temporary option when your hot water is periodically turned off. If you have purchased an instantaneous water heater, then in this article we will tell you how to make it. correct installation.



  • If you are a regular reader of our construction portal, then you probably remember that we have already talked about. This time we will talk about the installation of flow models, in the installation of which there are some nuances that are distinguishable from storage models.

    The fundamental difference of this model is that it heats running water, that is, by opening the tap, water is supplied to the boiler, the water enters cold, and immediately leaves it hot. In fact, an instantaneous water heater works on the principle of a geyser, only heating occurs due to electricity.

    The indisputable advantage of an instantaneous water heater is its size, in height and width they do not exceed 40 cm. When even geyser cannot boast of this, not to mention the storage boiler.

    If we compare in terms of technical capabilities, then the instantaneous water heater bypasses its competitors. It is a source of constant hot water in required quantities when the accumulative provides hot water only in the volumes of its tank, and then only after a certain heating time. A flow-through boiler provides more options for installation, since you do not need to find a large space and, as for a storage tank, and you also do not need to obtain a huge number of permits for installing a geyser.

    The only drawback of such water heaters is that they are installed on only one output: a shower and a washbasin or sink. That is, it is impossible to install one flow boiler for the entire apartment. The maximum that is possible is to install it in one room, for example, on a shower and a washbasin, while using both at the same time is impossible. In addition, some models of instantaneous heaters already include a washbasin faucet and a shower.

    In general, we figured out the features and advantages of the flow tank, now let's go directly to the installation.

    Mounting process

    Despite the fact that the instructions that come with the device describe the principle of installing and connecting the device, nevertheless, it is necessary to dwell on some points in more detail, and some are simply not affected there.

    Choosing a model based on installation features

    The installation of a flow heater is carried out directly in front of the place of water consumption.

    If the installation of the boiler will be carried out in the shower room, then it is best to choose a model of a water heater with a shower, it will be very rational and compact. If you want to use hot water both in the shower and in the washbasin, then give preference to models with a built-in faucet and shower. Thanks to this, you do not have to make complex wiring and make new branches.

    Another nuance is the cabin. For it, a flowing water heater must be mounted outside the booth: either from above or behind it - as it will be most convenient for you. From your decision regarding the installation location, you will need to build on when choosing a device model.

    Nutrition

    Having determined the installation site, you should run an electrical cable for power. Based on the fact that this species boilers are powerful enough and consume a large amount of energy, we recommend using a copper cable with a cross section of 2x2.5 to power it. The cable must be three-core, the ground must be good, it is strictly forbidden to install the heater without it. The cable is pulled from the distribution panel of the apartment. In this shield, an automatic machine for 32A should be installed.

    If there is a possibility self connection cable, then pull the whole one, straight to the machine on the shield. The socket must be installed as far as possible from the device, as far as the length of the cable allows. You also need to use a waterproof one with grounding elements.

    Fastening

    The device must be attached to the wall, and firmly attached to the appropriate dowels. Their number must correspond to the fasteners on the heater body. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the rear panel of the instrument to mount the instrument.

    Quite often, fastenings to the heater are immediately bundled with it, if they are of high quality - use them, but if they do not inspire confidence in you - buy similar ones, but in your opinion the best quality. Using a hammer drill or impact drill, make a hole in the wall.

    If tiles are laid on the wall, then in order to carefully make a hole in it, special drill with a winning tip. After you have drilled through the tile, you can continue to drill the wall with a regular drill.

    The appliance must be fixed strictly according to the level, any distortions are unacceptable.

    Now consider the connection of flow-through boilers to the water supply.

    Installation in the shower

    When connecting an instantaneous water heater, it is necessary to shut off the supply of hot and cold water to the apartment.

    Installing a shower heater is not difficult (if you choose it correctly), the only difficulty is to run the electrical cable. The boiler itself is connected to the plumbing system from the shower hose. It is mounted directly above the bathtub or in the center between the bathtub and the washbasin, if hot water supply will be provided to these two plumbing fixtures (if there are output systems in the device).

    If the device is installed in a shower, then the device comes with a hose with a sprayer, if it is a mixer + shower or heater does not include an outlet system, then we will consider the principle of connecting such devices below.

    Washbasin and sink installation

    When installing a boiler for a washbasin or sink, it is mounted from below, thereby completely hiding behind the cabinet. The connection process is as simple as in the previous case. Since the boiler is installed below, and there is no shower in these mixers, the connection is made a little differently.

    A tee is placed at the outlet of cold water. We connect the cold water supply to the mixer to the first branch, and the supply of cold water to the boiler to the second branch. The hose connected to the hot water supply system is disconnected from the system and connected to the boiler outlet. At the same time, it will be necessary to put a plug on the outlet of the hot water supply.

    If the boiler has its own water outlet, then the connection is made in the same way, only without the participation of a hot water hose.

    Before starting the system, check the correct installation and security of the system.

    It is also important to start this device correctly. First, the water supply from the device opens, when the boiler system is completely filled and appears, turn on the heating system. Shutdown is carried out in the reverse order - first the heating system is turned off, and after the hot water drains, the tap itself is also closed.

    Never turn on the device without water supply. It is also not recommended to do this if the pressure is weak.

  • The use of hot water has long been our norm. Everyday life. However, the planned shutdown of hot water in a city apartment or the lack of a central water supply in country houses create domestic inconveniences in the kitchen, bathroom, shower room.

    At the current level of production household water heaters(flow and storage - boilers) problems with interruptions or lack of hot water are solved simply and, with certain skills, with their own hands. It is enough to calculate the amount of consumed warm water, correctly select the type of heater, install it correctly and connect it to the water supply.

    And what is the connection diagram for instantaneous water heater or boiler better fit for one case or another, let's try to figure it out now.

    Let's start with the classification of water heaters

    According to the source of energy used:

    • electrical;
    • gas type (connected to the gas main);
    • on solid or liquid fuel (coal, firewood, peat, diesel fuel);
    • indirect heating (use the energy of other heat sources, such as central heating systems, heating boilers).

    Water heating method:

    • cumulative. They work on the principle of an electric kettle: a tubular electric heater is installed in a container with a certain volume of cold water - a heating element, which heats the water to a selected temperature (30-40 ° C) for a certain period of time and turns off. When the water cools down by 0.5-1°C, the automation again turns on the heating element and heats the water;
    • flowing (“flowing”). Instantaneously heat a small volume of water passing through a pipe with a heating element. Opened the faucet of the water supply system - the device turns on, hot water went through the plumbing. Close the tap - the heating element turns off.

    Which water heater to choose: by type and power

    There are many options for supplying housing with hot water with your own hands. Let's dwell on one of them: the house is provided with hot water (DHW), but sometimes, for a short period, it can be turned off. Then the most the best option there will be an installation of a flow electric water heater(EVN). Compactness and speed of water heating are the main arguments in its favor. But these advantages of an instantaneous water heater are given for a reason, but due to the high power of the device and the creation of an additional load (albeit short-term) on the power grid. You can calculate the required power of the water heater according to the following approximate scheme:


    Power calculation is made according to the formula: P = G*Δt / 14.3, where

    P is the heater power, kW;

    G - water flow, l / min;

    Δt is the increase in water temperature, °C; Δt = T-tin, T is outlet temperature, tin is inlet temperature.

    Even with the minimum “handwashing” mode (Δt, let's take 35 - 10 = 25), we need power: P = 2 * 25 / 14.3 = 3.5 kW. Note that in houses with electric stoves, the permissible total load power on the wiring is 6-8 kW, and in Khrushchev houses - 3.5 kW. Therefore, in order not to knock out traffic jams, when choosing a “flow” with a power greater than that allowed for your electrical wiring, take care of a separate electrical cable and the need to install an additional circuit breaker.

    So, after a small portion of the theory, you can already independently choose a flowing water heater (photo 1). Most of them are wall-mounted and are equipped with nozzles for the faucet, kitchen, shower. If low-power flow-through EWHs (2.5-3.5 kW) are used, then you can connect them yourself through a regular outlet. The approximate performance of the EWH (l / min) will be as follows:

    • summer period with inlet water temperature tin = +15°C;
    • winter period with inlet water temperature tin = +5°C.

    Yes, a trickle of water is thin. But washing hands, rinsing or washing dishes after you (not at the same time) is quite realistic without a separate electric cable from the shield on the landing and the installation of additional electrical protection.

    With year-round and, moreover, simultaneous use of several water intake points, a power of 3-6 kW will no longer be enough for a flow-through EWH. And then you will have to install a more powerful device (7-15 kW), which will require a separate cable and circuit breaker.

    How to connect flow EWH

    Installation of instantaneous water heater can be divided into three stages:

    1. Install the device on the wall;
    2. Calculation of power supply and its connection;
    3. Connecting the system to risers.

    For installation, you will need tools (photo 3) and materials:

    • drill, concrete drills;
    • hammer;
    • screwdriver;
    • gas key;
    • open-end wrench;
    • pliers;
    • metal-plastic pipe and a tee to it;
    • faucet and valve;
    • fum-tape or tow for sealing the threaded connection;
    • Euro socket with grounding contact.

    So let's get to work:

    1. Typically, an electric water heater is mounted on the wall as close as possible to the faucet in the kitchen or bathroom to reduce heat loss. It is desirable to install the heater above the highest point from which water flows (photo 2). Using a bracket and fixing screws, the heater is fixed to the wall. small size and the weight of the EWH allow you to do all the fastening operations with your own hands.
    2. The electrical connection is the main point of the entire installation. We start with the power of the device indicated on its back wall.
      st, for example, it is equal to 6 kW. We use the power formula: P \u003d I * U (power \u003d current * voltage). At a voltage of 220 V, the current consumed by the water heater is: I \u003d P / U, 6000 / 220 \u003d 27.3 A, while standard sockets can withstand up to 16 A. This means that you need a separate line from the shield on the landing and a circuit breaker for our device. We calculate the cross section of the wires of the additional cable using the ratio: a copper wire with a cross section of 1 mm² is designed for 10 A. The calculation for our example gives a cross section: 27.3 / 10 = 2.73 mm². After rounding, we get 3 mm². We choose a standard PVA cable (3x4) with three cores. The cross section of each core is 4 mm². Connecting the cable to the EWH and the shield with your own hands does not cause problems: a wire in a white braid - to phase (L or F), in a blue braid - to zero (N), yellow-green wire - ground (photo 4).

    Connection to the water supply system is carried out in two ways:

    1. Stationary method: provides hot water to the bathroom and the kitchen at the time of turning off the central hot water supply (DHW) or its absence. EWH is connected to the water supply system with the help of 2 tees (cut into pipes of cold and hot water), 2 valves and metal-plastic pipes. After such a simple installation, we check the tightness of the system with our own hands (we open the mixer and taps, including in front of the EWH), then we close the hot water riser and apply voltage. Note that the EWH must be equipped with a safety check valve that regulates the pressure in the system and prevents water from draining back into the central pipe. When the EWH is turned on, taps “1”, “3”, “4” are open, tap “2” is closed.

    2. The water heater is not used: taps “1”, “2” are open, “3”, “4” are closed (scheme in photo 5); temporary connection involves the use of only a shower hose (attached in the kit), which is connected to the outlet of the heated water EWH.

    So, a small amount of information and basic knowledge of tools allow you to understand the operation of the EWH, calculate it and do some of the work yourself.

    1poteply.ru

    Do-it-yourself instantaneous water heater installation

    Installation begins with determining the location. We take a level, a pencil and mark the place of the future installation. We remove the top cover from the water heater and apply it to the wall, draw a horizontal line with a level and mark future holes. Using a drill, we drill holes for dowels (or plugs - as you like). We install the dowels and fasten the device to the wall with screws.

    Usually, the kit includes the necessary fasteners, but it often happens that the dowels themselves are short (for example, there is a thick layer of plaster on the wall) and the screws themselves are short, so I would recommend purchasing in advance necessary fasteners the required dimension. On this installation can be considered complete.

    Connecting the instantaneous water heater to the water supply

    An instantaneous electric water heater can be connected to water in several ways.

    The first method is simple

    We take a shower hose, unscrew the “watering can” and connect the hose to the cold water inlet to the water heater. Now, by setting the faucet handle to the “shower” position, we can use the water heater. If we put the handle in the “tap” position, then cold water comes out of the tap, bypassing the heater. As soon as the centralized supply of hot water is restored, we turn off the water heater from the “shower”, fasten the “watering can” of the shower back and continue to enjoy the benefits of civilization.

    The second method is more complicated, but more correct

    Connecting the water heater to the water supply of the apartment through a tap for washing machine. To do this, we use a tee and a skein of fumlents or threads. After the tee, to disconnect the water heater from the water and to adjust the pressure and temperature of the water from the water heater, a tap is needed.


    When installing a crane, you should also pay attention to the ease of use of the latter. After all, we will repeatedly open and close it in the future.

    The section of our water pipeline from the faucet to the water heater can be mounted using various pipes: from metal-plastic and PVC to ordinary flexible pipes. The fastest way, of course, is to make an eyeliner using flexible hoses. If necessary, our plumbing can be fixed to the wall (or other surfaces) using brackets or any other means of fastening.

    How to install an instantaneous electric water heater - video

    Connecting the instantaneous water heater to the mains

    As a rule, domestic single-phase instantaneous water heaters are very powerful devices - from 3 to 9 kW. Accordingly, for proper connection, a dedicated line will be required (always with a separate RCD for emergency shutdown), since the usual one will not withstand such voltage.

    It is forbidden to use standard sockets for power supply, due to the fact that in most cases they do not have proper grounding.

    When connecting wires to screw terminals, phasing must be observed:

    - L, A or P1 - phase;

    - N, B or P2 - zero.

    It is not recommended to perform electrical work on your own, it is better to use the services of a specialist.

    Tags: water heater

    moydomik.net

    Installation and connection to the water supply

    The boiler is a storage water heater. It is placed in the kitchen or in the bathroom: it is hung on anchors or dowels with screws, which are provided in the kit.

    How to connect an electric water heater to the water supply system? Installation work resembles the fastening of an ordinary kitchen cabinet. But you need to bring pipes and electricity to it.

    Connecting a storage water heater to the water supply, as well as creating a consumer hotline, metal-plastic pipes are suitable (which pipes to choose for the water supply in the apartment). They bend perfectly by hand with little effort. In order not to create an oval at the bend, it is better to buy a special spring.

    Docking connections are collapsible. Therefore, redevelopment of home plumbing is not difficult.

    The transition to metal-plastic is carried out using a fitting that is screwed onto an iron pipe.

    Inlet and outlet units

    How to connect the water heater to the water supply? To do this, auxiliary units are placed on one pipe entering the boiler and on the other pipe leaving it.

    What is placed on the inlet pipe?

    Cold water is supplied to the heating tank in the same way as to a bath or kitchen sink faucet. With the help of a tee, a separate branch of the water supply is created, coming from the consumer line. This is the inlet pipe to the tank, on which a check valve is installed to prevent the outflow of heated water into the cold line.

    When connecting a water heater to the water supply, taps are placed up to and behind the valve: the one that is higher (closer to the boiler) is drain, and the one below is shut-off. If it is necessary to remove the boiler, then the water supply is shut off with one tap, and it is drained from the tank through the other.

    Valve Features

    Often a check valve is combined with a safety valve in one L-shaped body. It turns out one unit.

    The safety valve bleeds water when the pressure in the tank is higher than the allowable one.

    There are modifications with a lever (flag) with which you can open the water outlet from the boiler and release water from it. With this design of the valve, the drain cock will be superfluous.

    A transparent polyvinyl chloride (PVC) hose is put on the fitting through which water will be drained and lowered into a suitable container or into a washbasin.

    Heaters larger than 60 liters may be sold complete with stopcocks and valves. Therefore, it is better to buy spare parts after purchasing the boiler.

    When mounting any valve, pay attention to the arrow shown on the body. It shows the direction of water movement.

    At the outlet of the boiler

    How to connect the boiler to the water supply at the outlet of the tank? The beginning of the line of hot water consumers is the outlet pipe from the heating tank. On it, sometimes, a shut-off valve is placed. But it is not necessary to do so.

    To drain the water when dismantling the boiler, only one of the stopcocks is enough: the one that is installed on the inlet pipe. The rest of the water will leave after opening the valves ( hotline) faucets in the bathroom and kitchen.

    Electrical connection

    How to connect the boiler to the water supply? It is necessary to lay a separate line of electrical wiring from the shield. It consists of a three-wire wire (phase, zero, ground) and switching devices: RCD, double circuit breaker (how to choose a circuit breaker). An outlet is mounted near the boiler.

    The dual circuit breaker opens zero and phase at the same time. This occurs during overload and short circuit (short circuit). RCD (residual current device) interrupts the supply of electricity to consumers in the event of a current leakage.

    The machine protects the equipment from overheating and burnout, and the RCD saves a person from electric shock if the insulation is broken.

    Both protective devices complement each other. Therefore, when connected to the water heater water supply, they are placed together. But they can be replaced by one switching device - difavtomat (differential circuit breaker), which protects both from leakage and from short circuit and overload. This is cheaper and reduces installation time.

    Manufacturers can supply an RCD with a boiler. Then it is logical to purchase a circuit breaker for it and install both devices.

    ks5.ru

    Where to install instantaneous water heater

    Installation of instantaneous water heater in the kitchen under the sink
    • Think first - whether it will be convenient for you to supply water to the device.
    • There are no special complaints about the wall - the weight of the devices is quite small (even the most powerful 24 kW models weigh only 4 kg). Therefore, any wall can withstand such a load. Of course, if the surface is completely curved, then it will be quite difficult to hang on such a surface.
    • See that in your chosen place splashes and drops of water did not reach the device. After all, the degree of protection of the case for all models is different - some will even withstand a jet of water that has fallen, and someone will short-circuit even from a couple of drops. Therefore, it is better to think over this moment in advance.
    • Consider the convenience of using a water heater. Will you be comfortable using it: turn it on and off, choose different modes, if any, and also use the shower / tap.

    Equipment mounting tools

    The whole installation process can be divided into 3 stages and you will need the following equipment.

    To mount the water heater on the wall:

    To connect the instantaneous water heater to the mains:

    Many manufacturers indicate the parameters of a suitable wire in the instructions. If you have not found such data, then be sure to consult an electrician. He will provide an accurate calculation of a suitable cable.

    To connect to the water supply:

    Mounting the water heater on the wall

    After choosing a place, you need to fix the device. To do this, we just need a level with a pencil.

    First, remove the top cover from the water heater and attach it to the wall with a level. Mark with a pencil the places where the holes will be later. On average, the distance between these holes is 180 mm. Next, they need to be drilled using a hammer drill or a screwdriver. Install the dowels and complete the mounting of the device.

    How to connect instantaneous water heater to the water supply

    There are 2 options for how you can connect the device to water.

    1 - elementary

    Used as a temporary measure during interruptions in the supply of hot water.

    In this case, everything is outrageously simple. You just need to unscrew the shower head from the hose and this hose is connected to the cold water inlet of the unit. In general, the connection is completed.

    So, if you switch the mixer to "shower", then you activate the water heater and you can use its hot water. If you chose a "faucet", then cold withdrawal will flow from it, bypassing the heater.

    Once the hot water supply has been restored, you can screw the watering can back on and restore everything as it was.

    2 - correct, but difficult

    Scheme of installation of instantaneous water heater

    In this case, we will use the outlet for the washing machine. To do this, we need a tee and FUM tape. After installing the tee in the line, you need to install a tap. It is necessary to control the pressure of water, as well as its temperature.

    A newly made plumbing from a faucet to a water heater can be made both from flexible piping, which will be easier and faster, but less reliable, and from metal-plastic or PVC.

    Install the faucet so that it can be easily accessed, as you will need to use it often in the future.

    When connecting the "protochnik" use only the nozzles included in the kit. The use of third-party faucets is strictly prohibited! Only nozzles supplied by the manufacturer provide absolute electrical safety, unlike conventional taps. Believe me, among the current range you will surely find a model with the right nozzles.

    Connecting the instantaneous water heater to the network

    The first thing you need to do is to look at the rated current value of the circuit breaker mounted at the entrance to your apartment or house. For example, you have a single-phase 220v network and a 16A meter. The maximum allowable power can be 16 * 220 = 3.52 kW. This means that the total power of all appliances in the house cannot exceed this figure. Simply put, the machine will simply “cut down”.

    As a result, it turns out that the power of the instantaneous water heater that your set can withstand cannot exceed 2-3 kW. That is, it is only enough to barely wash your hands. And that's only in the summer.

    How to be in that case? The answer is quite simple: you should make a new wiring in the apartment. You will need:

    - run a new power cable to the entrance to the house;

    - replace the machines at the input and outlet lines with machines with a rating of at least 50 A.

    Be sure to install an RCD! Your safety when using this electrical appliance depends on this. So for a single-phase water heater with a power of not more than 6 kW, a 32A RCD with a trip current of 30 mA is suitable.

    Choosing a wire for connecting an instantaneous water heater

    In this table, we will give the data for a single-phase copper cable with 2 cores:

    Instantaneous water heater power, kW

    Current strength, A

    Rated current value of the circuit breaker, A

    The smallest section of the core, sq. mm.

    The data in the table are valid for copper cables! If you chose aluminum, then all parameters need to be increased by 1.3-1.5 times!

    As we said at the beginning of the article: it is forbidden to turn on the instantaneous water heater in a regular outlet, as it will not provide proper grounding of the device.

    Simply open the water heater and you will see the terminal block: it is to it that you need to connect the cores of the selected wire.

    Be sure to observe the connection in phases: L, A or P1 is a phase.

    N, B or P2 is zero.

    To make it easier for you to understand, let's explain with an example. For a 220V instantaneous water heater with a power of up to 6 kW, the current strength should not exceed 27A. Therefore, we choose a PVA 3x4 wire, three-core, with a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200b4 sq. Mm.

    When connecting to a phase, connect a cable with a white sheath, a wire in a blue sheath to working zero, and a wire in yellow-green to ground.

    1. Select and measure as precisely as possible the place where you plan to install the water heater.

    2. Determine how many taps the water heater will operate on (sink in the bathroom, sink in the kitchen, shower room, etc.) - this directly affects the choice of power and the connection process.

    3. Be sure to find out the possibilities of wiring your apartment - the cross section and material of the cable, the maximum permissible load. If you do not know how to do this yourself, consult an electrician. This is especially important if you have chosen an instantaneous water heater. It must be understood that if the capabilities of the existing electrical wiring are insufficient, you will need to lay a new separate cable from the electrical panel in order for the connection to be safe. An important fact is the grounding of the device.

    Calculation of the cross section of an electrical cable for connecting electrical appliances.

    Connecting high-power household appliances necessarily requires laying a separate electrical cable from the switchboard.

    Remember! If you try to connect a powerful instantaneous water heater to a washing machine outlet or to an outlet that is plugged into an electric stove, you run the risk of burnt wiring, which in turn can lead to a fire.

    Using the table, you can choose the minimum cable section that your electrical appliance should be connected to. The table assumes the use of a cable made of copper, at a voltage of 220 V, 1 phase, 2 cores.

    Attention: if instead of copper you take aluminum wire, it is necessary to apply an increasing factor equal to 1.3-1.5.

    4. If your tap water is not of good quality, it is highly recommended to install filters to purify the water before entering the water heater. Otherwise, the "life" of the water heater will be significantly less than declared by the manufacturer.

    5. Determine for yourself the type of water heater (storage or instantaneous), select the design (round, rectangular, flat, etc.), and also determine the performance. See advice How to choose a water heater.

    6. Depending on the installation location of the storage water heater, determine whether you need a wall or floor, vertical or horizontal water heater.

    7. If you plan to install the appliance yourself, you will need to purchase additional materials (electrical wire, electrical circuit breaker, water supply, faucets, etc.).

    In any case, the installation of a specific storage or instantaneous water heater must be carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions attached to the device. It describes the required number of holes on the wall, the number and features of fasteners, the sequence of connecting hoses, their size and location (vertically, horizontally), as well as other important information.

    8. The storage water heater must be especially firmly fixed on hooks (bolts), without the possibility of moving to the sides.

    9. All water heater connections to the water supply must be tight.

    10. The connection to the water supply can be made of plastic, metal-plastic, steel or copper pipe. It is not recommended to use flexible hoses with rubber hoses due to their rapid wear.

    11. When turning on the instantaneous water heater, make sure that there is water in the water supply. When turning on the storage water heater, you need to make sure that the tank is full.

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    How to connect a water heater to the water supply and electrical network with your own hands

    The procedure for connecting electric heaters is described in detail in the user manual that is attached to the device. But, before proceeding with the acquaintance, you should choose the most suitable device correctly. Consider the types of boilers, their features and connection rules.

    flow type

    Flowing electric heaters are compact devices that do not take up much space (which is especially important for small rooms) and are easy to use. They produce spot heating of the pipeline section, without accumulating water in the tank. At the same time, the load on the power grids from them is maximum with a power consumption range of 3–27 kW. It is often said that the use of flow heaters can ruin the owner, since the amount of electricity required for their operation is very large. In practice, it turns out that the maintenance of such devices is not much more expensive than any other, since water is heated directly during use, so the duration of high loads on the power grid is relatively short. The disadvantage of flow heaters is the limited use - basically they can only be used for shower heads or faucets.

    Installation of a flow heater can conditionally be divided into several stages:

    1. Choice of location. Flowers should not be installed far from the points of water intake in order to exclude heat loss when water flows through pipelines. At the same time, it is also impossible to place it too close to taps or shower heads; splashes of water should not fall on the device. It is necessary to choose the installation location so that it is convenient to use both the water heater and the tap (shower).
    2. Connection to the water supply system. Two options can be used here - a quick connection of the device to a shower hose or a more complex one - through a tee for a washing machine, which opens up great opportunities. In the first case, only a shower can be provided with hot water, in the second - several points of water intake. It is also possible to make a tap from the cold water pipeline to supply water to the inlet pipe of the device, but this option is quite laborious, it is advisable to use it only for high power devices.
    3. Power connection. This moment is the most important. Flowers are powerful devices; conventional lines cannot be used for their operation. It is necessary to carry out a separate circuit with a thick copper wire with a cross section of about 4 mm 2 (for powerful devices from 9 kW - 6 mm 2). You will also need a separate machine (RCD - residual current device).

    For any type of heater, grounding is required. The use of conventional sockets is excluded when the power of the device is higher than 3 kW.

    Installation of the device on the wall is carried out according to the user manual.

    1. Usually it is required to remove the cover, mark the centers of the holes, drill them and insert dowels. You can not install the heater on drywall or thin wooden partitions, you need a solid support - a concrete or brick wall.
    2. After installation, it is necessary to connect the cold water supply pipes (to the heater inlet) and to the outlet - a shower hose or hot water pipeline going to the taps.
    3. To adjust the heating mode, it is recommended to install a tap at the inlet (on the cold water supply). A faucet must not be installed at the outlet, unless the instructions indicate otherwise.

    How to connect a storage water heater

    Accumulative electric heaters are containers with water heated by heating elements (tubular electric heaters). They are metal tubes that are filled with a conductive electrical insulator with a conductive thread in the center. Heating elements heat the liquid by converting electrical energy into heat.

    When using boilers with large tanks, you do not have to wait for the heating of the next portion of water with active water draw. But, the larger the volume, the greater the load on the power grid, and, accordingly, the cost of paying bills. In addition, the dimensions of storage boilers with large capacities are quite impressive and require a spacious room.

    The power consumption of storage heaters is relatively low, about 1–2 kW. However, when purchasing a boiler, you should carefully examine the wiring so that the additional load does not affect its condition in a fatal way.

    Storage devices have indisputable advantages over flowers:

    • The ability to provide several points of water intake, create a full-fledged hot water system in a house or apartment.
    • The thermally insulated housing allows you to keep hot water for a long time even during power outages.

    There are also disadvantages:

    • Water heating time increases, especially when using large containers.
    • The dimensions and weight of the heaters place increased demands on the supporting structures or surfaces.

    Installation of storage electric heaters:

    1. Installing the device. It should be produced in convenient location, where there is access to the device to replace burned-out heating elements or other repairs, maintenance of the device. There are no fundamental requirements for the proximity of water points, so you can install a storage heater so that it does not violate the aesthetics of interior design, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bhousing allows it. Devices with a small tank volume can be installed under the sink in the bathroom or in the kitchen. The only limiting factor is the location of water pipes and electrical wiring, but these issues are quite easily resolved.
    2. Connection of input and output pipelines.
    3. Power connection. To do this, it is necessary to provide a separate line with an RCD. Continuous loads can damage worn wiring. The cross section of the line should be calculated based on the power consumption of the heater.

    The distance from the socket to the sink or bath must be at least 1 m.

    Connecting to the water supply can be done in two ways:

    • Connection of the cold water pipeline to the inlet through a splitter. The output joins internal system DHW at home. This option is good for a private house where there is no centralized hot water supply.
    • Inserting the outlet pipe into the DHW system. Cold water from the riser is supplied to the heater inlet, and hot water from the outlet goes to the domestic hot water pipe. The connection to the hot water riser is blocked by a tap for this time. The method is good for houses or apartments with existing centralized water supply for both cold water and hot water. It becomes possible to provide oneself with hot water during shutdowns or interruptions, but, if necessary, use centralized resources.

    The water pressure in the centralized cold water system may be too high for the heater. It is necessary to clarify this issue by studying the passport or instructions for the device, and, if necessary, install a reduction gear. If there is no centralized supply of cold water in a private house, then the heater can be connected to a storage tank installed at a height (usually on a roof or a separate structure). The main condition for such a connection is to ensure that the height difference between the tank and the heater is at least 2 m. If this requirement cannot be met, at least raise the tee (splitter) above the level of the heater. The outlet pipeline of the tank through a tee is connected to the cold water distribution and to the heater inlet, and the outlet of the device is connected to the hot water distribution.

    Video: installation of a storage boiler

    Connecting the combination unit

    Design combined devices(they are also called indirect heating boilers) combines a flow type water heater and a heat exchanger. Hot water is passed through a coil located inside the main water tank, giving it thermal energy. Due to the large length of the coil, which provides a large area of ​​​​contact of the walls with water from the tank, the heating is quite efficient, allowing you to get enough hot water.

    Since the coolant is produced according to the principle of a flow heater, the consumption of electricity will be high, which will require the presence of electrical wiring of sufficient cross section in good condition.

    To supply a private house, it is not advisable to purchase a large heater, since during the heating of water in the tank the flow heating mechanism will be activated, which will create a rather long and high load on the power grid. It will be necessary to create a separate line with powerful RCDs, the wire section is selected according to the total power of the device with a 10% margin of safety. Large and long-term loads mean high costs for hot water, which is not available to everyone. In addition, the general depreciation of electrical networks does not encourage the use of large combined heaters.

    There are wall and floor heaters. As a rule, wall-mounted ones have a smaller volume and weight, while floor-mounted ones have large dimensions. Connecting the device to the water supply practically does not differ from the method of connecting storage devices, and the power supply features are the same as for flow heaters.

    Video: principle of operation and connection of the combined unit

    Features of operation and maintenance

    The main problem is the choice of the most suitable device that can provide the hot water needs of the house and not empty the owner's wallet too much. Before buying, you should roughly calculate the allowable amount of expenses, take into account the cost of electricity, daily requirement in hot water. The purchased device should provide comfort, and not create problems.

    The operation of the heaters is carried out in accordance with the instructions that are attached to the devices. It should be carefully studied and strictly observed the rules of use. This will help to increase the service life of the heater, eliminate errors, and reduce wasted energy consumption.

    Most modern devices can be controlled using a remote control. Simpler samples, especially those that use heating elements, are adjusted by direct contact, so it is recommended to install them in accessible locations. repair work places, so as not to turn a simple setup into a complex and time-consuming procedure.

    Over time, lime deposits form on the surface of the heating elements and the walls of the containers. It reduces the efficiency of the heating elements, forcing the automation to overload them with work, which is why they fail prematurely. To clean scale and plaque, you should use special tools. From the outside, the surface is wiped with a damp cloth, if the instruction allows - a soft detergent. Maintenance and external cleaning is carried out only when the power supply is switched off.

    Connecting an electric water heater is not very difficult and can be done independently. The main task is to right choice devices, taking into account the state of the power grid, the needs of users in hot water and the capabilities of the equipment. Correct selection The device will be able to provide a home with hot water and not overload the power grid, while maintaining their performance and allowing the owner to save money on electricity.

    And flowing. Both of them are successfully used in the absence of centralized hot water supply.

    Storage water heaters are more bulky due to the presence of a tank in which water is heated, and require free space for their installation.

    The undoubted advantage of storage water heaters can be considered the possibility of inclusion in the usual electrical outlet without laying an additional electrical cable from the shield on the landing.

    The disadvantages include a long time for heating water and a limited amount of heated water.

    Flow heaters compare favorably with their compactness. They are mounted directly on the tap or shower head, allowing you to take a shower when there is no hot water.

    The instantaneous water heater does not make you wait until the water heats up and heats it literally on the fly.

    The amount of heated water in the case of using a flow-type water heater is not limited - the water is heated during the entire time while the tap is open.


    Electricity consumption occurs only during the use of water, while in the storage water heater, the thermostat periodically turns on water heating to maintain it. set temperature in the tank.

    Therefore, many, thinking about which water heater to choose, prefer a flow-type heater.


    What are instantaneous water heaters?

    Flowing water heaters can be non-pressure and pressure.

    Non-pressure heaters are placed directly on the tap or shower and serve only one tap.

    Pressure water heaters are capable of distributing water to several consumers at the same time, and in this case their connection is no different from connecting storage water heaters to the water supply system.

    Let's look at the connection of flow heaters of both types in more detail.


    How to properly connect a flow heater to the water supply

    The connection of the water heater depends on its design.

    In the simplest case, an instantaneous water heater is connected to a cold water pipe, as shown in the figure below:

    Heating of water happens at once after opening of the crane.

    As you can see, in this case, hot water will only be supplied to the shower head.

    Depending on the need, the heater can be installed to provide hot water to the washbasin faucet, the shower, or both the faucet and the shower:

    A flowing water heater that provides hot water in both the faucet and the shower head at the same time is shown in the photo below:

    Such connection methods involve the installation of one water heater per one draw-off point:

    There are more complex solutions when, using a special piping, you can use one non-pressure instantaneous water heater for two draw-off points, as shown in the diagram below:


    The numbers in the figure indicate:
    1 - instantaneous water heater;
    2 - a mixer with an open hot water tap;
    3 - hot water valve;
    4 - valve for draining water from the heater;
    5 - tee;
    6 - cold water flow switch;
    7 - comb;
    8 - spout;
    9 - hot water tap in the "open" position;
    10 - hot water pipe from the heater;
    11 - cold water pipe from the water supply.

    As you can see for yourself, the design is cumbersome and not very convenient to use.

    In this case, it is easier to install a storage water heater or use a flow type pressure heater.

    The connection of a pressure instantaneous water heater is carried out as shown in the diagram below:

    At the same time, it is possible to extract hot water at all points of water intake - in kitchen sink, washbasin and shower at the same time.

    During centralized hot water supply, tap No. 1 is open, and taps No. 3 and No. 4 are closed. Hot water is supplied to the system from the hot water riser.

    If hot water is turned off in the house, then tap No. 1 must be closed, and taps No. 3 and No. 4 should be opened so that cold water enters the instantaneous water heater for heating.

    The diagram does not show filters for coarse mechanical purification of water from sand and other contaminants. Typically, such filters are installed in front of apartment water meters (water meters) and there is no need to install additional filters in front of the heater.

    A water heater has long ceased to be considered a luxury item. Currently, such equipment is installed in almost every home. The most popular are flow and storage electric water heaters. Your attention is invited to an overview of the main advantages and disadvantages of the mentioned equipment, as well as instructions for its self-assembly and correct use.

    Advantages

    1. Compact dimensions. The flow heater does not take up much space. At the same time, models of heaters are available for sale, equipped with a mixer and a shower head, which allows you to save additional money.
    2. Fast heating. Unlike storage-type models, instantaneous heaters begin to produce warm water already 30-60 seconds after starting.
    3. No restrictions on the volume of heated water. The user can get exactly the amount of hot water that he needs, unlike storage tanks, the volume of which is limited.
    4. Relatively low price.

    Flaws


    Instantaneous water heaters are best suited for houses and apartments equipped with electric stoves. In this case, the meter and wiring will already comply with regulatory requirements.

    Advantages and disadvantages of storage heaters

    Advantages

    1. No need to modify the electrical network. The storage heater can be plugged into an ordinary electrical outlet.
    2. Profitability. On average, storage water heaters consume about the same amount of electricity per hour of operation as an ordinary vacuum cleaner. At the same time, models with the ability to control the heating power are available for sale. The time required to prepare the required volume of water at the desired temperature directly depends on the installed power.
    3. The possibility of arranging wiring for a bathroom and kitchen.

    Flaws

    The only significant drawback of storage water heaters is their impressive dimensions. However, today manufacturing companies offer their consumers a large selection of heater models that save space. For example, if you wish, you can purchase a flat unit.

    Installation of instantaneous water heater

    The process of installing an instantaneous water heater does not require the performer to have any serious skills. There are two options for mounting such a unit: for temporary use and for permanent operation.

    Temporary connection

    This option is usually used when it is necessary to obtain heated water in the absence of the possibility of connecting to a central water supply. After the appearance of such an opportunity, the water heater is easily turned off or even dismantled until the next use - it does not take much time.

    The most convenient for temporary use are models that were originally equipped with a mixer and a shower head.

    First step. Fix the heater in a convenient place with dowels and screws.

    Second step. Remove the watering can from the domestic shower hose and connect the hose to the water heater inlet.

    Third step. Connect the complete watering can to the outlet of the water heater.

    As a result, the cold liquid will enter the heater from the mixer, heat up when passing through it, and leave the complete watering can already warm.

    Permanent connection

    This option is used in situations where the heater is planned to be operated regularly. In this case, the unit is connected to the water supply system.

    The connection is carried out according to the scheme already considered, however, the supply and output of the liquid are fixed permanently. For such a connection, special tees are used, as well as stopcocks.

    As a result, heated water will come out of the mixer.

    After installing the heater, make sure that all connections are tight and only then accept the device for permanent use.

    It is important to understand not only the order of connecting an instantaneous water heater, but also the features of its use.

    The main rule: the flow-through water heater can only be turned on after the heater coil is completely filled with water.

    If the heater coil is not covered with liquid in sufficient volume, it will break and it will become impossible to use the device.

    Regardless of the option you choose to connect the flow heater, the use of such a device is carried out in the following order:


    Turning off the appliance is carried out in a similar order - you turn off the heater, wait until cold liquid starts to flow from the shower head, and only then turn off the water supply.

    Installation of storage heater

    In the case of storage heaters, temporary installation is not provided. Of course, you can connect an ordinary hose with a watering can to the outlet of warm water, but it will be categorically inconvenient to use such a unit.

    First step. Choose a suitable place to install the water heater and check the wall.

    Flow models are quite light in weight. Cumulative ones will exert a much more significant load on the wall. Therefore, when choosing a place to install a heater, you need to pay attention not only to the degree of convenience of piping, but also to the strength of the surface.

    As a rule, heaters up to 200 l are fixed to the wall. Tanks of a larger volume suggest exclusively floor installation. If the heater has a volume of more than 50 liters, it is recommended to fix it exclusively to a load-bearing wall.

    Second step. Prepare all the necessary tools for installing the water heater.

    You will need:

    • puncher (if the wall is concrete) or impact electric drill (if the wall is brick);
    • marker;
    • measuring tape;
    • drill for tiles (if the surface at the place of the future attachment of the heater is tiled);
    • protective valve;
    • FUM tape;
    • dowels and fastening hooks;
    • building level.

    In the presence of the required wiring with pre-mounted tees and shut-off valves, the installation of the storage heater is carried out in an extremely simple sequence.

    First step. Step back about 150-200 mm from the ceiling surface and leave marks on the wall for future holes. Thanks to this gap, you can conveniently lift the water heater for hanging and removing the tank.

    Second step. Armed with a drill (perforator) with a suitable drill, make holes in the wall with a depth corresponding to the length of the mounting hooks.

    Third step. Drive the dowels into the prepared holes, and then screw the screws into them. Be sure to leave a gap to accommodate the water heater mounting plate.

    Fourth step. Install the tank on the mounts.

    Fifth step. Install a safety valve on the cold fluid inlet. With its help, excessive pressure will be removed from the system. Connect a tube to drain excess fluid to the sewer pipe. Also, this tube can be gently inserted into the toilet bowl.

    Sixth step. Connect the cold water pipe to the water heater inlet. The entrance is marked blue. Connect only through the safety valve. To the outlet (marked in red), connect the ready-made hot liquid outlet pipe.

    Again, pay attention to the importance of the safety valve. Without such a device, the tank may be seriously damaged or even ruptured due to excessive pressure increase during the preparation of hot water.

    If there is a protective valve, the excess pressure will simply be released and the device will continue to operate under normal conditions. Also, with the help of a safety valve, you can quickly and conveniently drain water from the heater when it is necessary to perform maintenance and repair work on the equipment.

    Thus, the installation of a water heater is not particularly difficult. If you wish, you can independently install and connect a storage model or a flow heater. It is enough just to follow the provisions of the presented guide and everything will definitely work out.

    Successful work!

    Video - Do-it-yourself water heater installation


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