Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for self-finishing the roof. Do-it-yourself metal tile installation: phased installation of a metal tile roof Installation scheme of a metal tile roof

Metal roofing is the most popular in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings, public and industrial buildings, and the creation of small architectural forms. A thin profile sheet imitates masonry from ceramic tiles, but at the same time it is devoid of its shortcomings - significant weight, complex installation and high price. The cover is used for pitched roofs with an inclination angle of more than 12°.

The first metal tile was produced in the early 80s in Finland. She quickly won recognition from architects, designers and builders. Appreciated the novelty and the end user. In Russia, roofing material appeared in the 90s. Now it is used in regions with different climates - in the harsh northern latitudes and in the hot south. Earlier we wrote about how to do it yourself without the help of specialists, in any case it will be useful for you to read, even if specialists work.

The basis of a metal tile is a cold-formed profile sheet made of steel, aluminum or copper, coated with zinc-containing compounds, base, primer and polymeric materials. The thin outer layer also performs a decorative function. Surfaces have different textures and colors.

The device of a metal tile schematically.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

Table of coatings by temperature.

Roofing sheets are covered with polymers that are resistant to temperature extremes and solar radiation. The film applied to the outer side of the product must be flexible, durable, and reliably protect steel from corrosion. These requirements are met by:

Manufacturers for the needs of the consumer produce metal tiles with coatings of various compositions and characteristics. The polymers are layered with quartz sand, dot embossing is applied to the surface, and aluminum and zinc are added to the base. Some films have soundproofing properties, which is important for metal roofs. For high-quality products, the warranty period reaches 70 years.

What type of profile are

Roofing from metal tiles is made of rolled products with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm. The sheet is profiled by cold pressure. First, a longitudinal wave is formed, then a transverse relief. Products acquire a finished look, imitating a variety of masonry from clay plates. The user can choose the most suitable option for decorating a home.

Estimated table of sizes of metal tile profiles.

Monterrey. The classic form of tiling in the Finnish tradition. Rounded edges, low wave, smooth curves - distinctive features geometry of this profile. Varieties - Super Monterrey, Maxi.

Cascade. The profile resembles rectangular plates floating on top of each other. The waves are clearly defined, the edges are straight and strict. Conveniently joins with valleys or grooves, therefore it is used for construction complex roofs. Variety - MaxiCascade with an elongated wave.

spanish dune. sheet material produced in Russia in the Moscow region. The width of the element is 540 mm, along the longitudinal edges there is a groove and a hook for hidden fastening. Self-tapping screws screwed into the mounting holes are overlapped from above by an adjacent part. Water, not getting into the joints or under the fasteners, does not cause corrosion. Metal tiles are made according to the dimensions of the slope. Variety - Andalusia.

Finner. Modular roofing material 705x1190 mm in size, Finnish production. The two-wave element is provided with a fold at the leading edge for additional weather protection of the roof.

Adamante. The metal tile coated with matt PURAL imitates Mediterranean clay roofs. Profile with a soft wave, the color scheme is very saturated shades. Variety - Country with a polymer layer of polyester.

New profiles from Finnish and Russian manufacturers - Deckoray with a crest height of 18 mm, Banga with a round convex wave, Shanghai with alternating ledges of different sizes.

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Roofing from a metal tile is arranged according to two technologies - warm or cold. The choice of option depends on the purpose of the attic space. For a dwelling, slopes and gables are insulated, if it is unheated, thermal insulation is laid on the floor. Installation of a roofing pie in each case has its own characteristics.

Warm roof

The device of a warm roof from a metal tile begins with laying of a waterproofing. It protects the insulation and the wooden structure of the roof from condensation and accidentally seeping water. At the same time, it performs the function of wind protection - they prevent the heat insulator fibers from blowing out through the cracks.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters. For this apply:

• inexpensive polyethylene or propylene films that do not allow steam to pass through;
• diffuse breathable membranes.

If polyethylene films are used, then a ventilation gap is arranged between them and the insulation. This will allow the moisture to evaporate.

The film or membrane is mounted with a stapler to the rafters without sagging. At the junction, the panels are overlapped to a width of 15 cm. They are glued with adhesive tape to avoid wind blowing. The laying direction is from bottom to top for free flow of water over the surface of the waterproofing.

When laying the membranes, orient according to the instructions. Since the passage of vapors is provided in one direction, you need to be careful. Otherwise, the result will be the opposite. Usually the manufacturer prints a logo or a bright stripe on the outside.

On top of the waterproofing, bars of a counter-lattice with a thickness of 40-50 mm are mounted. This provides the necessary ventilation gap between the film and the metal tile.

Basalt wool mats are placed between the rafters. On the underside, the thermal insulation is protected by vapor-tight films. If this is not done, condensation will form in the thickness of the material. This worsens the properties of the insulation, creates a source of constant dampness in the premises.

Vapor barrier is arranged from films, membranes, reflective foil materials with vapor permeability in the range of 0-90 g / m² * day. They are attached to the rafters from the inside, trying to maintain the tightness of the coating. To do this, the joints are carefully glued, the places where the communications pass are duplicated with overlays with cut out holes.

Important. Foil films are laid, turning the metal layer inside the room. Thermal waves are reflected from the barrier without being radiated into the atmosphere. For sizing, choose adhesive tape with a metallized layer.

cold roof

In cold roofs, insulation is laid on the ceiling of the upper floor. At the same time, it is also protected from moisture penetration by insulating materials.

Only a layer of waterproofing is placed under the metal tile. It protects the under-roof space and the truss system from condensate formed on inner surface profile sheet.

For waterproofing, films or membranes are used. Their choice is quite large. Fasten materials similarly to the insulated version. Between the rafters, a small - 20 mm - sagging is left for the condensate to drain into the drainage system. All joints are sealed with adhesive tape.

To reduce the noise that occurs during rain or hail, waterproofing is combined with soundproofing. Dense heavy membranes, barriers based on acoustic felt or rubber, penofol, mineral wool are used.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

Installation of a roof from a metal tile is carried out, as a rule, by professional teams. Weight square meter roofing material 4-7 kg, which makes it easy to lift the sheets and install them on the roof. With a building skill and a set of tools, you can do this with an assistant.

For work you will need:

• ladder and ladder;
• cutting tool - metal scissors, a hacksaw with a fine tooth, an electric jigsaw, a circular saw;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• long rail;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• soft brush to remove sawdust after cutting.

Important. It is not recommended to cut metal tiles with a manual grinder. Rotating at high speed, the abrasive wheel burns out the protective zinc and polymer coating. This accelerates the formation of corrosion, leads to the appearance of rust.

The sheets are fastened to the crate with colored galvanized self-tapping screws with an EPDM rubber gasket, screwing them in with a screwdriver.

If scratches appear during installation, they are painted over with an aerosol of the same color as the base material. Wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic.

Stages of work when laying metal tiles:

1. Check the geometry of the roof with a tape measure. The slope diagonals must be equal.
2. Install hydro, steam and thermal insulation according to the project.
3. A counter-lattice is installed along the rafters from bars 40x50 or 50x50 mm.
4. A crate of boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm is nailed parallel to the ridge with a step equal to the wavelength of the metal tile. For the most common Monterrey profile, this is 350 mm.
5. Hooks are fixed on the lower element of the crate for drainage system, cornice strips and gutter. It should be 25-30 mm below the edge of the roof.
6. In places of inclined joints of slopes, elements of the lower valleys are overlapped.
7. Mount sheets of metal tiles from right to left. Each previous sheet is overlapped by the next one by one wave. Fasten with screws.
8. The joints are closed with upper valleys.
9. Install end strips with seals.
10. At a distance of 350 mm from the eaves, snow retainers are mounted.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the deflection of the wave 3-5 cm below the stamp relief. Fasteners are placed strictly perpendicular. The rubber washer should be firmly attached to the surface of the sheet. Incorrect installation results in gaps or deformation of the elastic pad.

Important.It is impossible to fasten self-tapping screws to the upper part of the wave, this will lead to unstable fixation of the profile. It is unacceptable to use boards of different thicknesses for the frame, install them with uneven pitch. As a result, coating defects occur.

Installation of metal tiles - step by step instructions

Before starting work, a preliminary calculation is carried out to determine the consumption of materials. The upper edges of the profiles are not symmetrical, so they cannot be interchanged when laid out. In addition to the main dimensions of the element, its working dimensions are taken into account, taking into account the overlap.

The drawing marks the position of each sheet. In gable roofs, installation begins from the lower right or left corner of the slope. The second element is placed next to it. The third panel is mounted above the first, the fourth - above the second.

With hipped or more complex roofs, the starting line is the vertical where the highest point is located. Laying begins with the device of joints or junctions.

To regulate the position of the sheets, first they are temporarily fixed to each other, without screwing to the crate, 2-3 pieces in a row. Then the formed block is leveled and firmly fixed.

Important. On the metal tile they walk only in soft shoes, trying to step into the deflections of the wave.

Installation of additional elements

Additional elements are designed to seal the joints, joints and abutments of the roof, giving it a finished look. Corresponding profiles are produced for each type and color of tiles. They are made from the same steel sheet with a protective coating.

For the design of roofs use:

• Cornice strips - drippers installed along the bottom of the eaves. Serve to collect condensate from the under-roof space, protection from rain in case of side wind. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws to the bottom board of the crate, which should be 10-15 mm thicker than the rest. Roof overhangs are hemmed with soffits or profiles.
• End strips - protect the gable of the roof from gusts of wind. They are also called wind or gable. The upper part is attached to the metal tile, the lower part - to the wind board.
• Ridge strip - a profile for decorating the top of the roof of a round, triangular, trapezoidal or rectangular shape. For a tight fit to the figured tiles, the extension is sealed with foam rubber. It allows air to pass through, but creates a barrier for birds or insects. The slats are completed with plugs that repeat the shape of the end hole. Along the length they are joined with an overlap or locking fastening.
• Valleys - curly strips designed to remove atmospheric moisture flowing from the roof surface, and decorative design seam on top.

Sealing joints, locations skylights or communications are carried out with strips, wall profiles, external junctions and passage elements. To protect against the gathering of large layers of snow, corner, tubular or lattice snow retainers are installed on the slopes.

Important. Additional elements must be fixed in such a way as to eliminate the risk of leakage. For this, seals, steel clips, sealants are used.

Conclusion

A roof made of metal tiles is a worthy alternative to natural tiles. Available in a variety of profiles. The service life of materials with high-quality coating reaches 70 years. An important condition is correct installation and operation.

If you are engaged in the construction of a house, you must outline for yourself some vectors of work, a plan that will bring clarity and structures the chaos.

Let's determine what steps precede the finished and harmonious look of the finished roof.
2. Carrying out calculations - how not to make a mistake with the order of the roof
3. Use of styling materials and tools
4. Preparing the surface for laying tiles
5. Important technical points laying tiles
6. Differences in the shape of the slopes - rectangular, trapezoidal and triangular
8. Errors when fixing metal tiles

The emphasis in this article will be on metal tiles, as one of the most popular types of roofing and the issue of its installation requires special attention. Following the instructions for installing a metal tile guarantees that the roof will be reliable, airtight and aesthetically beautiful.

1. Choice of tiles: which roofing material to choose

How do you know which roofing material to choose for your home? To do this, you need to study the main characteristics of each of them and decide what is important to you.

The installation rules for passage elements, skylights, roof safety elements are described in detail in the instructions attached to orders.

6. Triangular and trapezoidal slopes

• When installing metal tiles on such types of slopes, additional counter-battens are installed along the ridges of the slopes.
• Further steps are similar to the installation of standard roofs. Then a cornice board, a cornice strip, gutter hooks and a drip are mounted.
• The metal tile sheet is cut along an oblique line so that the distance to the sheet of the next slope is 60-80 mm.
• Installation of ridge slats is also carried out from the bottom up.

It is important to ensure that the axis of the ridge bar runs clearly along the axis of the ridge. The junction of two ridges and a ridge can be decorated with a plastic Y-shaped tee.

7. Care of metal tiles and quality assurance

In order for the roof to last as long as possible, we recommend:

• Monthly inspection of the roof from the ground;
• Annual inspection of each roof slope with a rise to the level of the eaves;
• Carrying out maintenance work on the roof, if necessary;
Scratches must be touched up with corrector for repair;
• The valleys should be cleaned of debris, for this you need to remove the decorative part;
• If there are leaks, high humidity, condensate, uneven wall temperature in the attic room, you need to apply for a comprehensive roof repair.

8. Errors in the installation of metal tiles

And the last roofing It is better to entrust professional builders. Roof installation requires a lot of experience and honed skills. But then a properly laid roof will delight you for a dozen years.

Metal roofing is a popular roofing material. He has excellent technical specifications and modest mass. It is customary to invite specialists for its installation, but you can carry out all the work yourself, following the step-by-step instructions and observing the necessary criteria.

In order for the installation of metal tiles with your own hands to pass without errors, the following rules should be observed:

1. Sheets of material are stacked in two ways: from the left side to the right and vice versa. In the first option, the previous sheet is necessarily superimposed. In the second, the laying of each next sheet is overlapped on the previous element.
2. Each sheet is not attached immediately and entirely. Before screwing the material, lay 3-4 sheets and grab them a little with fasteners to fix them. Make sure they are in the correct positions, trim if necessary. For the final fastener, one self-tapping screw is used. And it permeates all the sheets.
3. The quality of the self-tapping screws used seriously affects the operational period of the roof. Use galvanized products with special seals on the heads. They will hermetically close all holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those areas where one fastener fixes several sheets at the same time, a seal occurs. To smooth it, cut off part of the corner, or straighten the capillary fossa arranged under the stamping line.
5. The end strips are fixed with an overlap - 2 cm. The wave parameter is adjusted to the width of the slope. Otherwise, there will be a comb on the pediment.
6. The eaves plank also has an overlap. It is 10 cm and is located on the lower crate bar. To it, the bar is fixed with nails.
7. The roofing strip and the tile sheet must be separated by a layer of sealant.
8. Components concentrated below the ridge are equipped with single-module sheets. for pipe and window opening you need 2 pieces.
9. In the presence of a sloping roof slope, an aero roller is mounted. It is arranged between the metal tile and the ridge bar. Thanks to this measure, precipitation will not fall under the ridge.
10. The skate is fixed to the slats located at the end of the overall structure. The required protrusion (2-3 cm) is taken into account in the calculations. If the skate is flat, then the mount is overlapped. When working with semicircular counterparts, fasteners are based on the profile line.

Before laying the thermal insulation, a vapor barrier is first placed on the rafters. Maximum layer of heat retention material - 25 cm. An antioxidant film is mounted on it, fastening takes place with wooden blocks to the rafters.

In order for precipitation to drain into the drain, fix the thermal insulation with a slight allowance (2-3 cm).

Technology and installation instructions for metal tiles

This work consists of several stages:

1. Carrying out calculations.
2. Waterproofing is being installed.
3. A counter-lattice is created.
4. Brackets are attached to the drain.
5. The trim is installed.
6. A cornice strip is installed.
7. Endova joins.
8. Sheets of material are stacked and fixed.
9. Additional elements are mounted (ridge, end plate, etc.)

Preliminary calculations are necessary to determine the required amount of materials. Mathematics is reduced to the following operations:

1. Calculate the area of ​​each slope;
2. calculation effective parameter sheet of material. From its total area it is required to subtract the area in the overlap.
3. Determination of the number of rows of material on the slope. Its functional length is divided by the width of the tiled sheet.
4. Counting the number of sheets in a line (row).
5. Multiplying the number of rows and sheets in each of them. Here, the overlap parameter should also be taken into account, this is approximately 15-20 cm.

The material is guaranteed to be enough if you round all the indicators up.

It is useful to draw up a material calculation scheme. For example, she might be:

Also, before buying, pay attention roof pitch. He must be at least 11 degrees. This is the minimum for installation.

For the work itself, you will need the following tools:

1. Metal scissors.
2. Electric drill.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Roulette.
5. Hammer.
6. Special tape for mounting.
7. Marker.

Also provide yourself with a ladder and protective equipment (goggles and gloves).

In addition to metal tiles, the work requires the presence of:

• materials for waterproofing;
• roofing strips;
• aero rollers;
• ridge and end planks;
• boards 2.5 x 10 cm;
• guide board;
• self-tapping screws and seals for them.

Laying waterproofing

The most popular materials are polyethylene films. Better to use diffusion membranes. They can be laid on insulation boards without fear of condensation. from the side of the heater.

The scheme of arrangement is as follows:

A vapor barrier is a barrier that blocks the ingress of moisture from the premises into the internal sections of the roof. It is located at the very bottom of the roof formation, under the rafters, to which it is mounted, and thermal insulation. It is also protected from condensation.

Installing the counter grille

The counter-lattice forms a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing. Her slats should be placed with a significant step. Between them is a void filled with air.

The counter-lattice does not carry a load-bearing load, but performs the following functions:

1. Supports for workers when creating the main crate.
2. Protection of waterproofing from damage and lathing from moisture.
3. Fixation of the waterproof film, its retention from less sagging.

Its installation is carried out in this order:

After these steps, the boards of the main crate are mounted. Work starts from the eaves.

Mounting brackets for the drainage system

This task should be based on the following criteria:

1. If the wall is three-layer, the brackets are attached only to the surface layer. With its density of 9 cm, the anchor deepens by 6 cm, at 12 cm - by 8-9 cm.
2. If the wall has two layers, the fixing component is placed 6-9 cm deep and enters the next layer.
3. The immersion goes 6-7 cm into a single-layer wall. Screws or expansion dowels are used for fastening.
4. If the wall is wooden, the holder is fastened with self-tapping screws. A sharp long rod is used.

Myself gutter installation takes place in this algorithm:

Lathing installation

Since the metal tile does not have an impressive mass, it does not require a powerful foundation.

The crate is nailed to the rafters. The distance between the initial and subsequent board is 35-40 cm between the centers of the boards. This is where the curves of the sheet matter. This figure is different for different models metal tiles.

It is worth knowing that you cannot arrange rafters above the windows themselves!

In the areas where the valleys are located, and the metal tile is adjacent to the pipe, and also a continuous crate is created near the windows.

This component is attached after creating a frontal board, which is held at the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails.

Mounting goes in this order:

1. Hemming the veneer board on the front section of the base.
2. Fastening the support bar to the wall. It becomes a support when installing the overhang of the cornice system.
3. Installation of brackets on the drain. Their attachment points: rafter legs or cornice board.
4. Assembling the plank itself. The areas of its placement are those areas where the drain is connected to the cornice or frontal board. Self-tapping screws are at least 30-35 cm apart from each other.

In this work, for each such component, it is necessary to attach an additional board. The process starts from the bottom with a gradual upward movement. Be sure to keep an overlap of 25-30 cm.

Below the cornice line, the bottom bar is cut off. After that, a flanging is arranged, and a sealant is placed under it.

Sheets of material and the axis are separated by a gap of 8-10 cm.

Screws are screwed into the cut material 1.5 cm from the stamping line. The fastener is 25 cm away from the axis. So the sheet at the fastener point joins the board on which the valley is concentrated.

At the bottom of the valley is mounted before laying the roof. Thanks to this, the water will flow directly into the additional component.

Installation of metal roofing According to the arrangement scheme of the valley, it looks like this:

Use decorative overlays to cover areas where cut material is visible.

Valley device diagram

If the beginning or end of the valley is right on the slope, a separate board is laid, a hole is created in the tiled sheet for the window, and an overlap in the form of a plank is made for the cornice cut. In this situation, a sealant is laid along the walls.

Laying and fastening sheets of metal

This work begins on a rectangular slope, or rather from its right extreme side. In the reverse direction, each new sheet is placed under the previous one.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile on a slope - a triangle is based on the following criteria: the initial sheet is placed in the middle of the slope. Other sheets are mounted to it from two sides.

The procedure for laying metal tiles here next:

1. Laying the initial row. The sheets are not fixed thoroughly, but are tacked at one point, and then aligned with each other by the edge of the slope. Their first line hangs from the eaves by about 4-6 cm. The process starts from either side: right or left.
2. Fixing with screws through the wave. They are screwed tightly, but their sealing ring is not pinched.
3. At the butt section, the corner is cut, so seals are eliminated. It is possible to straighten the capillary pit under the stamping.
4. The process is duplicated for the second and following lines.
5. Fixation of end strips. Their laying overlaps 2 cm.

Installation of the ridge, the end plate of the metal tile and the connection to the wall

The horse is mounted in the following sequence:

How to lay a metal tile on a roof? For areas of heating or ventilation pipes aprons are arranged. The work goes like this:

The end strips are fixed with an overlap of 2 cm. The wave parameter and the slope width must be identical. Otherwise, the comb will be placed on the pediment.

Video: Installation of metal tiles - video instruction.

Installation of snow guards

These devices can be tubular, lattice and corner. The first ones are fixed in this order:

1. Create device layout markup.
2. Strengthening the crate with an additional bar.
3. Construction assembly. The bolts are not tight.
4. The installation itself to the roof, in which holes for fasteners are created. Only the lower wave adjacent to the crate is suitable for their placement.
5. Attachment to the slope with bolts. 0.8 x 6 cm. Step - 30-50 cm.
6. Waterproofing holes - rubber gaskets are used.
7. Insertion of the tubes themselves.

If there is an attic, they are arranged above all window openings. Their distance from the extreme part of the roof is 40-50 cm.

The second ones are set at a significant angle where huge volumes of snow are concentrated. The maximum height of the grate is 20 cm.

Still others are fixed with self-tapping screws or steel corners, always on the upper wave of the material. Arrangement variations: chaotic or in one row.

Among roofing materials in the construction market, most often buyers give their preference to metal tiles - a beautiful, practical and affordable material. The metal tile is made of sheets of copper, aluminum or steel, which are profiled using cold pressure. So the material takes a shape similar to the shape of ceramic tiles, without losing its quality.

The installation of such a roof does not require special knowledge, but it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the technology of the process, so in this article we will tell you how to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands.

Types of metal tiles

If you decide to cover the roof with tiles, then first you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Wave height and steel thickness. The higher these parameters, the stronger the metal tile will be, however, the price for it will also increase;
2. Profile type is a matter of taste. In total there are 3 types: symmetrical, asymmetrical and trapezoidal;
3. Protective covering. Any metal tile is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer of zinc with impurities, such as aluminum. The presence of this layer is extremely important, because the metal of the roof is constantly in an unfavorable environment.

Separately, it is worth talking about the decorative layer of metal tiles. This layer is optional, but applied quite often. Its main task is to give a spectacular appearance, but it also serves as an excellent protection against the harmful effects of the environment.

The decorative layer can be made of the following polymeric materials:

• Polyester- an inexpensive and reliable coating that is suitable for regions with any climate, however, it is necessary to work with it very carefully, because. it does not tolerate mechanical influences;
• Plastisol- A more durable PVC coating. It is immune to corrosion, as well as mechanical damage, but is completely unsuitable for hot regions due to intolerance to high temperatures;
• Pural- provides resistance to corrosion and various weather conditions, however, when installing it, you also need to be extremely careful due to the possibility of plastic deformation;
• PVDF- one of the most best options. It withstands all kinds of weather conditions, is resistant to damage and fading, and also has a long service life.

What you need to know about working with metal tiles

Speaking about how to close the roof with a metal tile, first of all it is worth talking about essential tool. You will need:

• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Marker;
• Roulette;
• Reika-rule;
• Metal scissors.

When planning the construction of a roof, do not forget:

1. The angle of the roof slope must be at least 14 degrees;
2. You should not cut the metal tile with a grinder, because. high temperatures contribute to the destruction of the protective layer. It is also necessary to know correctly, so as not to damage it;
3. If you plan to cover a roof with a complex shape, purchase material with a large margin, because. when cutting, there will be a lot of unnecessary scraps;
4. Purchase a reliable paint, which must be carefully painted over the places where the metal tiles are cut in order to protect it from corrosion;
5. A roof with a metal tile needs additional sound insulation;
6. When laying a metal tile, walk on it in soft shoes, trying to step on the concave part of the wave.

Warming and waterproofing

Finishing the roof of a house with metal tiles always begins with the provision of waterproofing, which will protect the roofing sheets from condensation, and also levels out possible leakage.

First of all, you need to take care of the vapor barrier. It is laid out as follows:

1. A piece of the required length is cut off, taking into account overhangs of 20 mm towards the eaves;
2. Also keep a slight sag of 1.5-2 cm between the rafters;
3. Join rows with an overlap of 15 cm and securely glue them with tape;
4. A stapler is best for attaching the vapor barrier, but you can also use small nails.

If you decide to insulate the roof, lay sheets mineral wool between the rafters.

Next, you need to put waterproofing material. It will protect the insulation, as well as the wooden vault of the roof from moisture. Attach the waterproofing to the outside of the rafters, like a vapor barrier. Also, do not forget to leave a gap between the tiles, waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier for better ventilation.

Lathing installation

If we cover the roof with a metal tile with our own hands, then we should mess around with the crate ourselves. This stage is very complicated and requires extreme concentration, but with proper calculations, problems should not arise.

To begin with, it is worth deciding on the material from which the crate will be assembled. Most often, a 50 by 50 mm timber or a 100 by 25 mm board made of coniferous wood is used for its assembly. Before use, it is necessary to dry the timber thoroughly, and also treat it with moisture-proof impregnation.

We collect the crate:

1. Pick up a board that will be 15 mm thicker than the rest;
2. Fasten the selected board to the eaves;
3. The second board should be standard sizes, however, it must be fixed 50 mm closer than all subsequent ones;
4. The rest of the boards are fastened at a distance equal to the transverse profile of the tiles;
5. At the ridge and in the valleys, it is recommended to make a continuous crate to create additional strength;
6. The end plank should be fastened to the height of the tile wave above the general level of the crate.

Now you can cover the roof with metal tiles, however, in order to detect errors in a timely manner, we recommend checking the geometry of the slope, as well as comparing the size of the diagonals.

Installation of metal tiles - how to cover the roof with your own hands

The beginning of the assembly depends on the type of roof:

• If you hide gable roof, start laying sheets from any end;
• With a hipped roof, installation starts from the highest point and leads in two directions.

When laying the sheet, leave an offset of 40 mm along the eaves, temporarily fix it with one screw with a rubber insert at the top.

If you stack sheets from right to left, then fasten the next sheet with an overlap on the previous one, however, if the laying of sheets goes from left to right, then the next sheet must be wound under the wave of the previous one. Fasten the stacked sheets together, but do not screw them to the crate, so that later you have the opportunity to trim them.

The organization of valleys requires special attention:

1. As mentioned above, a solid crate is required under the valleys, so think it over in advance;
2. Fasten a steel sheet to a solid crate;
3. Cut the metal tile so that two adjacent sheets form an even angle;
4. Close the resulting corner with a decorative element, fixing it with self-tapping screws into the upper part of the tile wave.

If you have laid the tiles correctly, then a gap will remain at the junction of the upper sheets, into which it is necessary to lay the sealant and fix the roof ridge to the edges.

As you can see, it is quite simple to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, it is only important to understand the technology and approach the matter with maximum concentration.

The choice of roofing baths - the question is both simple and complex. Even a large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not aim to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no perfect roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are considered to be piece coatings made of tiles, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although even among these types of coatings, the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance. Coating options for metal and shingles are most often found in the coatings of the bath, it is on them that we will dwell for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with brief characteristics coatings.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Advantages

Cheap, fast installation, a wide selection of colors and geometric shapes. You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then in 6-7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers for elite brands of products give a guarantee of 25 years or more.

Flaws

Noisy during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roofing.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in a vertical position, avoid sharp bends.

We will describe the most complicated method installation of metal tiles - with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you can simplify the installation process and skip some steps.

Step by step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions truss system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types, checking their dimensions does not take much time.

How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the truss system, the difference in values ​​\u200b\u200bshould not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull the rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, deflection corrections are done during nailing the crate.

Step 2 If possible, treat all wooden elements of the truss system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3 Waterproofing installation.

It will protect the insulation layer from condensation of moisture vapor. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton with wooden structures may cause premature deterioration. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the side of the attic and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation, you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start waterproofing exactly near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate runoff, it is desirable to glue the joints of the membranes special tape or regular tape.

The chimney has been processed - proceed to the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattices.

Such a device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the crate. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the coating sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much during the arrangement of roofing.

Step 4

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the crate, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the rest to increase the strength of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The step of the crate should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing under the metal tile - photo

Nail the first rail at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the crate, you need to cut several rails along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - beat off with a blue rope parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the desired distance. When nailing the rails, be guided by these lines. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. Reiki are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roofing.

The wavelength of a metal tile depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the tile taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer provides its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20 ÷ 25 centimeters.

Step 5 Installation of a chimney apron.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, their list also includes metal junction strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the angle will align to the existing dimensions.

Scheme of installation of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. Under the lower element of the apron, a flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanging on the sides should be placed, along which the water will go into the water collectors. In the same way, the side walls of the pipe are trimmed, and the upper part is sealed last.

In order to prevent water from entering the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line on the chimney to fit the upper edge of the plank. Bulgarian with diamond disc a line (strobe) is cut at the marked place. The cut must be cleaned of dust and washed. The bent edge of the bar is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along the entire length. So you need to do around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks, carefully perform all sealing operations.

The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leakage. In time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two to three hours, this is not the time due to the savings of which you can put the entire roof of the bath at additional risk.

Step 5 Installation of hooks for the drainage system.

Hooks should be fixed even before the installation of the drip of metal tiles, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, cornice strips can also be installed.

Important. The bottom of the cornice strip should drop slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, with strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the eaves. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder a line to bend at the desired location.

How to do this, let's look at an example. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Lay all the hooks in a row and trim their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark the point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line, each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders must be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6 A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of a few centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the chute with metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and is fixed by bending the metal tongue.

Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the eaves.

Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles rise to the roof one at a time, you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope.

If the bath is two-story, then canvas belts should be used to lift it.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made in accordance with all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end doborny element will close the irregularities of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how much is needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate by at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the sheet, fastening is carried out in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be kept in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move along the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, legs should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undercompressing or pinching. The rubber washer should be firmly pressed against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9 Installation of skate bars.

They can be flat and semicircular, equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10 Installation of end plates.

Trim the ends, all the laths of the crate should be on the same line. Planks on the one hand are fixed to the wind boards, on the other - to the roofing.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used in the bath for the chimney, then to exit it to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter is changed by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How is the outlet of a metal pipe sealed?

Step, No.	Description	illustration
Step 1	On the roof, mark the place where the chimney exits, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it with metal strips to the laths or battens
Step 3	Attach the base of the exit to the profile of the metal tile and bend it to size
Step 4	Apply a layer of sealant on the underside of the outlet, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device must be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from the one described above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap differ.

The last "touch" - snow retainers. It is recommended to install them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the spillway systems from mechanical damage. Brackets are placed at the bottom of the wave of the metal tile only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for high-strength bolts, snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.

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snow retainers

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take their rightful place, this coating is universally used, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the spread of prices among various brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but in terms of average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. In the baths it can be seen very often. All advertising booklets of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only various color solutions, but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photos of roofs with soft tiles after 5÷6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time, enough dust accumulates between the particles of crumbs for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-roof". Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “do not like” the roof itself, the root system of plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No "modified" bitumen and non-woven materials can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work in a "long box", in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. We'll have to change and expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are moss cleaning options, but they simultaneously “cleanse” the surface from crumbs and bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the crate, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the materials of the crate, depending on the distances between rafter legs. The most beneficial is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the crate is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - a place can be found for almost all scraps of the slab. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the truss system and the reliability of fixing all its nodes. Flexible coating structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and these are additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a stretched rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the step crate. The distance between the boards of the crate is 20 ÷ 30 centimeters.

Step 2 Start nailing the OSB boards.

The basis for a flexible tile - a continuous crate

Baths usually have small size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. You can fasten the plates with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for this flour - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is first. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crushed at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in the same plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible tiles can easily hide them without degrading their properties.

Step 3 Fasten the hooks of the drainage system.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the "Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles" section. And the general algorithm for installing a spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4 Install metal droppers on the cornice overhang, fix them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to drive nails into metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, which first makes holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5 The installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is sold in the kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the cornice overhangs. It is inexpensive, but will bring many benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, avoid bending, the surface must be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not stick well - use a special liquid bituminous mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared in size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with carnations with wide caps, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the step is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the lining carpet on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bituminous mastic. On the ridge, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more moment. If the shingle profile has deep cuts, for example jazz, tail, trio, then the lining carpet should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6 To protect the ends from wind loads, gable strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the windboard, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 7 Roof slope marking. On the lining carpet with a blue rope, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a grid will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewed rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the wrong dimensions of the slope.

Step 8 Lay a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bituminous mastic.

Step 9 Setting up the starting line.

A very important stage, treat its implementation with the utmost attention. Perform work from the center of the eaves, cut off the excess along the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths. The starting strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. From the back, remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix in a checkerboard pattern with carnations with wide caps. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.

Step 10. Shingles should be mixed randomly before laying, do not take them in a row from one pile.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When shingles are mixed, this problem disappears. A protective film is removed from the reverse side of each shingle, the tiles are evenly glued and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When driving nails in the lower part of the tiles, attention should be paid to ensure that their hats are necessarily closed by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should recede from the starting strip by one centimeter.

There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, it is a little easier to work with them. Drive nails only at a right angle, hats should not cut into the roof. Four nails are enough for one meter-long shingle; the hat should be located at least two centimeters from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the strobe, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction points are carefully smeared with mastic.

Passing element - fixation

Step 12 Decorating the fronts. The edges of the shingles are additionally smeared with mastic. Excess parts are cut off in a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the truss system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out from the ordinary or torn along the perforation lines of the eaves. Secure the shingles with four nails, two on each side. Lay the skate towards the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or tile laying is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tile, the line should be heated with a building dryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their shingles can be installed at -5°C. Do not believe and do not experiment, work should be done only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. It will be narrow at the top and slightly wider at the bottom. The wide flat part of the factory cut will hide all the handmade irregularities.

On this work on the roof is completed, you can proceed to the insulation of the roof.

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Video - Installation of flexible tiles