Heating radiator connection diagrams: an overview of the best ways. Distance from the radiator to the wall: fastening, determining the required gap, installing floor and wall types Proper location of radiators

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics it is very important, one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast iron one, which has been since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of " thermal curtain, interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. What is it and how to install it, you can see on our page.

Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specifics of the location of the risers of heating systems in residential buildings, such a battery connection scheme is the most common. It is quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to fit batteries with a large number of sections.
	The second most common radiator connection scheme. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high efficiency.
	This scheme is often used in country houses- many owners of cottages prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil appearance rooms. But at the same time, the lower connection of the radiator is 12-15% less efficient than the diagonal one.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step by step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected sideways to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in this case, the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, because the supply and bypass are made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the device and characteristics of the heating system at home. Perhaps, for your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

• dismantling the old radiator;
• installation of a new bypass and shutoff valves;
• installation of the battery and its connection to the eyeliner.

Preparation for work. Dismantling the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with the preparation of the tool and the dismantling of the old radiator. In this example, we will talk about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How are they installed , you can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check the completeness - whether everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself - whether it has any damage or defects.

Step 2 Cut the packaging from under the new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a substrate for the radiator - so you will not scratch it on flooring. Put the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantled with a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from pollution.

Step 3 Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what and where should lie - finding the thing necessary for installation, but lost among the mess, can significantly slow down the work on replacing the battery.

Step 4 Dismantle the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, screw everything back immediately - most likely, the riser was not blocked properly. And if everything is in order, work on dismantling the crane further.

Step 5 Next, disconnect the old battery and wiring from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread drive. Then determine how far you can cut this thread so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint, applied to the nut and connection of the riser with the bypass and piping, may interfere with operation. You can remove it with a regular knife with a retractable blade or a metal brush.

Step 6 Remove the battery from the mounts.

Step 7 According to the previously defined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery, trim with a grinder.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it to a place where it will not interfere with further work. Given the high mass of the cast-iron radiator, do this with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tight, use a hammer and chisel.

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary to correctly install the heating system. At the same time, it is important not only to qualitatively implement the necessary set of works, but also to correctly connect all the heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the current standards for the number of heating elements for a certain area. If you wish, you can do everything with your own hands.

Is assembly required?

If the radiators are delivered assembled, it is enough to install the plugs and. Most models have four holes located at the four corners of the case. They are used to connect heating lines. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.

Before the installation of the system begins, it is necessary to close the extra holes using special plugs or air vent valves. The batteries are supplied with adapters that must be screwed into the manifolds of the product. Various communications should be connected to these adapters in the future.

prefabricated models

Assembling the batteries should begin with laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best on the floor. Before this stage, it is worth deciding how many sections will be installed. There are rules that allow you to determine the optimal amount.

The sections are connected using nipples with two external threads: right and left, as well as a turnkey ledge. The nipples should be screwed into two blocks: at the top and at the bottom.

When assembling the radiator, be sure to use the gaskets supplied with the product.

It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.

Features of installation of various types

The material from which a particular heating element is made imposes certain requirements on its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of serious mechanical stress, then others require special care.

Cast iron classic

Still remain relevant. The special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat a room of any area due to slow cooling.

To install such a heating element correctly, before connecting, you should:

• disassemble the finished product into sections;
• stretching all the nipples, assemble the product in reverse order.

When performing installation work, it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. The heating element can only be installed on brick and concrete walls. near drywall wall produced on a floor stand.

Modern models

Such products are characterized by low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky crane.

In the process of performing installation work, do not remove the packaging to prevent deformation of the surface.

How will we connect?

The scheme for connecting radiators can be different. The level of heat transfer and the comfort of being in the apartment depend on which option will be preferred. Incorrectly selected wiring can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.

Lateral

The most widespread is the one-sided side scheme, which has the highest heat transfer rate. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one.

If you do the opposite, the efficiency of space heating will decrease by almost 7%. To connect multi-section radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, since insufficient heating of the last sections is possible. This can be avoided by installing a water flow extension.

lower

In an apartment with pipes hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth, a bottom connection is used.

This is the most aesthetic option, in which the pipes for supplying and discharging the coolant are located below in the floor, and therefore the lower holes are used for connection.

Diagonal

Installation of batteries with twelve or more sections is carried out in a diagonal pattern.

The coolant is supplied through the upper branch pipe located on one side of the radiator, and is discharged through the lower one on the other side.

Sequential

Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the heating system of pressure sufficient for the movement of the coolant through the pipes.

In this case, it is worthwhile to provide for a Mayevsky crane, designed to remove excess air.

It is important to remember that the implementation of repair and maintenance work will be accompanied by the shutdown of the entire heating system.

Parallel

Parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe built into the heating system, through which the coolant is supplied and discharged outside.

The presence of special taps at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off the heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of the pipes at reduced pressure in the system.

Work sequence

Installation of batteries begins with a complete overlap of the circuit. When replacing old radiators with new ones, water is drained and the heating elements are dismantled. It will be correct to use the pump to exclude the presence of coolant residues in the system.

After all the water has been removed, the battery attachment points are aligned in both planes. Brackets are installed.

Package

The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing linen, packaging paste or special shut-off valves. Using a torque wrench, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.

Installation work

Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners; in the second, at least three are required. Two should be at the top, one at the bottom.

With ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. There should be three at the top, two at the bottom.

Spatial control

The battery position is monitored in both planes. It is advisable to provide a slight slope towards the wall. This will avoid airing the system during its operation.

The final stage

Threading is performed on the risers and the connection of all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully controlled.

After that, trial tests can be carried out in order to detect a possible leak.

Tests

If until now everything has been done by hand, at this stage it is better to invite a ZHREU locksmith. By shutting off the taps of the "American", you can open the connecting tap. It is better to entrust the opening of the return pipe to a locksmith.

If there are no leaks at the connection points, it will be possible to open the valve on the batteries and close the bypass valve. The coolant will begin to flow into the heating system. To bleed air, you should use the Mayevsky crane.

As soon as the heating circuit in all rooms warms up, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore pressure in the system. We can assume that the control tests are completed. If the installation was done correctly, the apartment will be comfortable with minimal cost.

In order for the autonomous type heating system to work as efficiently and efficiently as possible, it is important not only to choose the right heating devices included in its design, but also to connect them accordingly, using the optimal schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house.

The comfort of living in the house directly depends on how competently and professionally this will be done, so it is best to entrust the calculations and installation of the system to specialists. But, if necessary, you can perform the installation work yourself, paying attention to the following points:

• Correct wiring installation.
• The sequence of connection of all elements of the system, including pipelines, locking and control valves, boiler and pumping equipment.
• Selection of optimal heating equipment and accessories.

Before you connect a heating radiator in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the following rules installation and placement of these devices:

• The distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor is 10-12 cm.
• The gap from the top of the radiator to the window sill is at least 8-10 cm.
• The distance from the rear panel of the device to the wall is at least 2 cm.

Important: Failure to comply with the above standards can lead to a decrease in the level of heat transfer from heating devices and incorrect operation of the entire heating system.

Another important point, which is worth considering before installing heating radiators in a private house: their location in the premises. It is considered optimal when installed under windows. In this case, they create additional protection from the cold entering the house through window openings.

Please note that in rooms with several windows, it is better to install radiators under each of them, connecting them in series. In the corner rooms, it is also necessary to install several sources of heating.

The radiators connected to the system must have automatic or manual heat regulation. To this end, they are equipped with special ones designed to select the optimal temperature regime depending on the operating conditions of these devices.

Types of piping

Connection of heating radiators in a private house can be carried out by one-pipe or two-pipe scheme.

The first method is widely used in multi-storey buildings, in which hot water first, it is fed through the supply pipe to the upper floors, after which, having passed through the radiators from top to bottom, it enters the heating boiler, gradually cooling down. Most often in such a scheme there is a natural circulation of the coolant.

The photo shows a single-pipe connection diagram with a bypass (jumper)

Its main advantages:

• Low cost and material consumption.
• Relative ease of installation.
• Compatible with various types of underfloor heating systems and radiators.
• Possibility of installation in rooms with different layouts.
• Aesthetic appearance due to the use of only one pipe.

Minuses:

• The complexity of carrying out hydro- and heat calculations.
• The inability to regulate the heat supply on a separate radiator, without affecting the rest.
• High level of heat loss.
• An increased pressure of the heat carrier is required.

Please note: During the operation of a single-pipe heating system, difficulties may arise with the circulation of the coolant through the pipeline. However, they can be solved by installing pumping equipment.

Two-pipe scheme connecting heating batteries in a private house is based on a parallel method of connecting heating devices. That is, the branch supplying the coolant is supplied to the system, in this case it is not connected with the branch through which it returns, and their connection is carried out at the end point of the system.

Advantages:

• Possibility of using automatic temperature controllers.
• Serviceability. If necessary, shortcomings and errors made during installation can be corrected without damage to the system.

Flaws:

• Higher installation costs.
• Longer installation time compared to a single-pipe type of wiring.

Radiator connection options

To know how to properly connect a heating battery, you need to consider that in addition to the types of piping, there are several schemes for connecting batteries to the heating system. These include the following options for connecting heating radiators in a private house:

• Lateral (unilateral).

In this case, the connection of the outlet and supply pipes is made on one side of the radiator. This method of connection allows to achieve uniform heating of each section at minimal cost for equipment and a small amount of coolant. Most often used in multi-storey buildings, with a large number of radiators.

Useful information: If the battery connected to the heating system in a one-way scheme has a large number of sections, the efficiency of its heat transfer will be significantly reduced due to the weak heating of its remote sections. It is better to ensure that the number of sections does not exceed 12 pieces. or use another connection method.

• Diagonal (cross).

It is used when connecting to a heating system with a large number of sections. In this case, the supply pipe, as in the previous connection option, is located at the top, and the return pipe is at the bottom, but they are located on opposite sides of the radiator. Thus, heating of the maximum battery area is achieved, which increases heat transfer and improves the efficiency of space heating.

• Lower.

This connection scheme, otherwise called "Leningrad", is used in systems with a hidden pipeline laid under the floor. In this case, the connection of the inlet and outlet pipes is made to the lower branch pipes of the sections located at opposite ends of the battery.

The disadvantage of this scheme is heat loss, reaching 12-14%, which can be compensated by the installation of air valves designed to remove air from the system and increase battery power.

For quick dismantling and repair of the radiator, its outlet and inlet pipes are equipped with special taps. To adjust the power, it is equipped with a temperature control device, which is installed on the supply pipe.

What they have, you can find out from a separate article. It also contains a list of popular manufacturers.

And about what it is, read in another article. Volume calculation, installation.

Selection Tips instantaneous water heater on the faucet. Device, popular models.

Installation

As a rule, the installation of the heating system and the installation of heating radiators is carried out by invited specialists. However, using the listed methods for connecting heating radiators in a private house , you can install the batteries yourself, strictly following the technological sequence of this process.

If you perform these works accurately and competently, ensuring the tightness of all connections in the system, there will be no problems with it during operation, and installation costs will be minimal.

The photo shows an example of a diagonal installation method.

The procedure for this will be as follows:

• We dismantle the old radiator (if necessary), having previously blocked the heating line.
• We mark the place of installation. The radiators are fixed on brackets that need to be attached to the walls, taking into account the regulatory requirements described earlier. This must be taken into account when marking.
• Attach brackets.
• We collect the battery. To do this, we install adapters on the mounting holes in it (they come with the device).

Attention: Usually two adapters are left-handed and two are right-handed!

• We also use locking caps to plug unused collectors. To seal the joints, we use sanitary flax, winding it on the left thread counterclockwise, on the right - clockwise.
• We fasten the taps ball type to pipeline connections.
• We hang the radiator in place and connect it to the pipeline with mandatory sealing of the connections.
• We make pressure testing and trial start-up of water.

Thus, before connecting a heating battery in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of wiring in the system and its connection diagram. At the same time, installation work can be performed independently, taking into account the established standards and process technology.

How the installation of heating batteries in a private house is carried out, the video will show you clearly.

The window sill plays not only an important role for the window, but can also influence the installation of batteries, it should also be taken into account when choosing curtains. We will consider all the features of choosing the correct height of the window sill from the floor and from the radiator. These installation dimensions are important for the heating system.

Product protrusion functions

The protrusion of the window sill may be different. There are practically invisible structures that do not stand out for the window opening, there are also wide, powerful window sills on which you can sit. The design is needed to keep the heat in the house, it can serve as an additional support, for example, to install flower pots.

The window sill should be chosen carefully, it must fit the design of the window, otherwise it may fail. Replacing a part without removing the double-glazed window is extremely problematic.

Primary requirements

The distance from the floor to the window sill may vary depending on the type of window. However, GOST is provided for the permissible coefficient at which heat is best retained in the room, and the indicator is 0.55 W / ° С × m². This means that in order to achieve desired effect, you need to use a plate that will have low thermal conductivity.

An important role is played by the distance of the radiator to the window sill: in that case, there is a SNiP, the main provisions of which require:

Height calculation

The distance between the battery and the window sill must be at least 10 cm, regardless of what type of heater is used. You need to take into account the height of the battery itself. Behind you need to step back 8 cm. The battery itself should rise 10 cm above the floor, that is, when installing a window sill from the floor according to SNIP, you will need to step back by 70-80 cm.

An important role is also played by the protrusion of the window sill.: it may move away from the wall significantly or be invisible. If there is no radiator under the window, it is not necessary to meet any requirements, but if heating is present, the protrusion must be strictly regulated. The task of the window sill is to redirect heat flows. Without it, they will rise up, and proper heating of the room will not occur, since part of the heat will evaporate and be distributed on the ceiling.

Poor convection can also be caused by a too wide window sill. It will not allow warm air to escape, as a result, condensation will begin to accumulate on the window, as the main air flows will go up, and some of them will get stuck under the window, heating the atmosphere. In this case, it is very important to calculate the distance from the window sill to the heating radiator, both in height and how far it is possible to make a ledge. You can avoid the problem described above by using a slab that does not extend beyond the wall by more than 8 cm.

Advice: when calculating the dimensions, you need to take into account the level of the wall with the finish.

The best option is a solution in which no more than 10% of warm air will be retained in the window niche. To do this, the window sill should not protrude beyond the battery by more than 6 cm, but should not be shorter than the heater.
If design solution the premises require the installation of non-standard wide structures, they must be provided with holes for ventilation. Their size must be sufficient for proper air circulation.

Is clearance needed?

Some window owners believe that the window sill goes deep under window frame, However, it is not. The distance between the window and the window sill is approximately 10 mm. Otherwise, the design may be deformed. The fact is that under the influence of warm air, the material from which the plate is made expands. The gap is left so that the structure can take the desired shape without getting damaged. Visually, this technique is invisible.

How to position the curtain?

The distance of the window sill curtain also plays a role. In order for the curtains to move without clinging, there are no traces left on them, and warm air can circulate freely, the distance must be at least 5 cm.

Conclusion: it is not always possible to apply the standard distance from the floor, radiator, curtains to the window sill, but you can find a way out by observing certain requirements.

Every professional builder knows that when organizing various installation works, certain postulates-rules should be followed, which can be conditional and legalized by various certified documents such as GOSTs and SNiPs.

Rules and recommendations on how to install the structure exist on any, even a small part, respectively, they are also for organizing heating, including the installation of radiators - the heating elements of the system.

How to choose batteries for the room

The volume of batteries should be enough to heat the room

The heating system is a complex structure, therefore it as a whole and its individual elements, such as heating radiators and pipes, require correct installation and the appropriate choice of product suitable for a particular room.

Regarding the radiator, there are recommendations for laying pipelines, the height of the radiators (observing the distance from the floor) and their correct location.

As a rule, radiators are installed in places of greatest heat loss.

As for the choice of the place of installation of radiators, then, as a rule, these are places with the largest heat losses. In almost all houses or apartments, such places are windows and doors, regardless of the use of new technologies. It is not always possible to install a radiator above the door, so they are often mounted under windows.

In order to prevent dampening of the wall under the window, and warm air is evenly distributed over the lower part of the room, and then rises, it is necessary that the dimensions of the heating radiator make up 70-75% of the window in this room.

A small heater will not give a significant heat transfer, and there will not be enough heating in the room.

Rules for installing radiators

If the radiator is under the window, then install it strictly in the middle

For heaters, not only the size is a reference requirement, but there are a number of other recommendations that should be followed both when choosing a heating element and when performing installation work.

These requirements include:

• the heating device must be installed strictly in the middle of the window, equally spaced from the edges;
• the installation height of radiators from the floor should not exceed 15 cm, otherwise cold zones will form above the floor, and if you lower the heater below 8-10 cm from the floor, then it will be problematic to clean under such a device;
• radiators should be at a distance of 12-18 cm from the window sill, if the device is placed closer, then there may be a loss of heater power due to the influx of cold air from the window opening;
• the distance from the rear wall of the device to the wall covering should be 3-7 cm, this is necessary for proper air convection.

It should be remembered that if the radiator is brought as close as possible to the wall, then the gap will be a “dust collector”, and besides, the device during the heating period can not only spoil the outer wall finish (wallpaper), but also destroy the wall structure - plasterboard.

Performing installation work

Before producing installation work, and, choosing at what distance from the floor and wall the heater will be installed, it is necessary to stick aluminum foil on the wall at the approximate installation location of the device to increase heat transfer and efficiency (coefficient of performance). After that, you can mark up the fasteners.

You should be aware that there are several options for connecting radiators to the heating system, you can see some of them from the diagram table.

A medium-sized radiator is hung on 2 brackets

When hanging a radiator, all planes should be checked, since the heat transfer of the device depends on the observance of the verticality and horizontality of the heater.

For medium sizes of the heater, 2 brackets are installed so that they go between the extreme sections, if the radiator large sizes, then install an additional hook strictly in the middle opening of the radiator. How to hang a radiator, see this video:

Bypass allows you to regulate heat

When connecting radiators, there are also a number of features and requirements that must be observed. One of these requirements includes the rule of installing a jumper (bypass) between pipes in a single-pipe distribution system, which will make it possible to independently regulate required amount heat in the room. The main advantage of the bypass is that the basis for its installation does not need to be legalized, and the installation process can be done independently.

It should be remembered that all the rules for installing radiator systems are the same for both individual heating and central heating. If you are going to install new heating elements, then you should take permission for this action from the management company or housing office.

Summing up the article, it should be said that the choice and installation of a heating radiator is not an easy task.

All the activities, requirements and recommendations for the installation of heating elements of the heating system indicated in the article can serve every owner who decides to install radiators on his own and organize a heating system in his house or apartment.