How to make a sink cabinet. How to make a cabinet for a kitchen sink with your own hands. Ceramic sinks

The kitchen is an important element of home improvement. It carries an important functional load. It is here that food is prepared, the process of harvesting, conservation takes place. Most often, it also has a dining area for daily meals. Therefore, a reasonably planned space greatly optimizes all processes. This is especially true for small kitchens. Furniture kitchen set is the main forming element of this system. Rationally distribute the workspace will help the corner cabinet under the sink for the kitchen, which will be discussed later.

Before considering the main types of corner kitchen cabinets let's decide for what purposes the corner segment serves and what functions it performs.

The meaning and functional loads of the corner cabinet under the sink:

connecting - that is, thanks to this segment, the furniture set moves from one wall to another;
technical - one of the important nodes is located in it, namely the sink and communications to it. This main purpose - rationalizes the used area. Corner sink is convenient because it can be equidistant from the desktop and hob. This makes food preparation much more convenient. In addition, it can accommodate sinks of various configurations and sizes. Inside it, in addition to the communications drain system, there can be water filters, a flow heater, garbage containers, retractable storage systems, most often household chemicals;
aesthetic function - this element fits organically into the common space.

Varieties

There are two types of corner sink for the kitchen: L-shaped with an acute angle, these sections are also called attached, and a cabinet for the kitchen with a beveled corner. They differ in internal overall dimensions, device, quantity and method of opening the doors, ease of use.

Corner cabinet for the kitchen under the sink, the main overall dimensions.

In kitchens made according to individual orders may be slightly different overall dimensions.

L shaped

Beveled corners

Choice of size and shape

In order to make the right choice of corner cabinets, you need to know their features, advantages and disadvantages. In attached sections with an acute angle, the internal space is smaller than that of pedestals of the second type. They can be equipped with two doors or one that opens two sections at once (accordion door). The convenience of the second option is that access to the far corner inside the section is simplified. The corner cabinet for the kitchen under the sink with a beveled corner is more spacious, as it has a larger volume. It is possible to install a sink bigger size. In addition, they are convenient in terms of use, as the beveled corner makes it easier to access the sink. The disadvantages include the fact that she has only one small door.

The problematic place of the corner sections under the sink is the countertop. The standard canvas has a size of 60 cm wide. In the case when postforming, a laminated tabletop is used, a seam falls on the corner segments. This point is not relevant for cast countertops made of artificial stone. Corner overhead sinks are sold that fully correspond to the dimensions of the working surface of the cabinet. Or for this section, purchase a special postforming 120 cm wide.

What else you need to consider when deciding on the choice of the corner segment:

kitchen area. The bevelled section takes up more space;
you should immediately decide on the size and shape of the sink for the kitchen.

You can not immediately purchase it, but you need to select a model and download a technical drawing on the Internet. When you buy a cabinet, take it with you and show the sales consultant a drawing. This will help to avoid possible errors;

material used to make kitchen and countertops. Remember that laminated board is most prone to swelling from moisture. Therefore, it is desirable that the surface of the countertop be seamless;
general style and interior design;
decide whether additional elements will be located in the corner element: chopper, filters, flow heater. In this case, it is reasonable to give preference to a segment with a beveled corner.

Only by summing up all these points, you can decide on the choice.

Manufacturing materials

When deciding on a cabinet, you need to be guided by the materials from which it is made. Main types of materials:

laminated board - an affordable option. This is, in fact, pressed glued wood shavings, covered with a layer of plastic. It should be noted that moisture should not get inside the plate. For these purposes, the ends, in the part where water can get in, are protected by an edge;
pedestals made of laminated board with MDF facades. MDF is wood waste crushed to a dispersed state, vacuum pressed under high pressure. from above the plate is covered either with a thin layer of a special film, or with veneer (a thin cut of wood), veneered facades. The slab can be protected by staining. Painted MDF has a wide range of colors. Their advantage is also that they can be embossed. The facade does not require trimming the ends with an edge. The most popular and optimal, in terms of price-quality ratio, option;
natural wood - in the vast majority of cases, only facades are made from it. Wood, although the most environmentally friendly material, is also quite capricious. It must be well dried, expertly fitted and covered with special varnishes. These compounds protect it from moisture, temperature changes, mechanical stress;
facades made of plastic and glass - they are quite beautiful and expressive. But expensive, like wood. They are framed with aluminum end tape. Susceptible to scratches, glass, to chips and cracks;
cabinets made of food grade metals. This is most often furniture for food production, where there are increased sanitary and hygienic requirements.

Washing plays an important role in ease of use.

Wooden

Options for corner segments

There is a wide range of sinks on the market, including corner sinks.

What types can be used:

corner sinks - rectangular sinks are suitable for cabinets with an acute angle. For the second type, with a beveled corner, the choice is wider, since the working surface is larger;
round sinks 50, 60 cm standard sizes. It should be remembered that a section with an acute internal angle is also suitable for sink 50;
direct washing - most often manufacturers produce them in lengths of 60 cm (600 mm) and 80 cm (800 mm). The depth depends on the type of sink (consignment note or mortise) and shape.

Floor corner cabinet under the sink, its choice is directly related to the size and shape of the sink.

oval

Rectangular

Filling

Do not forget to take into account the interior filling of the cabinet. If technical units (chopper, water filter, flow heater) are concentrated there, then it is reasonable to use a pedestal with a beveled corner, as it is more spacious. When you plan to use it for storage, then both options will do. You just need to decide on the dimensions of the stored things. This will determine the height of the shelves.

In the attachment segment with an acute angle, it is possible to use special retractable baskets, swivel shelves, which is quite convenient.

If a garbage container is located in the corner segment, then when planning the internal space, it is better to know its size in advance. Then you can rationally accommodate additional shelves.

When deciding what the corner floor element for the sink will be, consider the combination of the above factors. best material artificial stone for countertops. Then a sink made of the same material is more suitable. If the work surface is covered with a laminated board top, then it is more correct to use overhead sinks.

A segment made entirely of laminated board is not much cheaper than cabinets with an MDF facade. Therefore, from an aesthetic and practical point of view, the second option should be preferred.

The main thing for the safety of the cabinet is the maximum protection against water ingress into the stove. To do this, all possible joints are sealed with a sealant, the edges in contact with moisture are trimmed with a protective tape, and a furniture plinth is installed.

How to make your own

If you have certain skills, you can independently assemble the corner segment. laminated board best option for the kitchen with your own hands, from which it is easiest to make it.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

determine the type of section. To do this, consider the size of the room, and what will be located inside the segment;
check out the main types of sinks for corner cabinets. Both types are suitable for sink 50. Choose the best option and download the sink drawing;
think over and sketch a drawing of a cabinet with detailed dimensions;
with a drawing, contact a company that cuts laminated boards to size. They will also tell you where to purchase accessories and end tape;
when all the blanks are available, you can assemble the corner segment. To begin with, the sidewalls are mounted, they are attached to the bottom of the cabinet. Next, install and secure the connecting strips. Then the legs are screwed on. Mark and cut recesses for door fasteners. Install them, hang the doors. Depending on the type of sink, overhead or mortise, prepare the countertop in order to mount the sink. In order to make a hole in the countertop, use a jigsaw. Pre-make markings on the countertop in the form of a sink. The mortise sink is installed only on the sealant. It is important to follow the assembly sequence.

So, the floor corner segment for the sink is an important element of the kitchen furniture set. It carries a significant functional load. There are two main types of pedestals. Depending on a number of the above facts, one of them is chosen. A significant element is the shape and dimensions of the sink, internal filling. When choosing a material, interior design plays a major role.

Headset price: $1270
Square:
Layout:
Furniture color:
Facades: Plastic
Style:
An association: -
Floor: Tile
Apron: Tile
Ceiling: -

Your repost will change the Internet :)

In general, something had to be done about it, and I decided to move the washer to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything turned out “tuttle to tyutelka”: the width of the cabinet that had to be removed was 40 cm, the typewriter - 40 cm. However, in the process of dismantling the cabinet at the junction of the floor and the wall, a heating pipe appeared, which prevented the installation of the washer in a niche, and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done with a typewriter. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design of the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of 6.2 m2 (according to the data sheet), which has not been made for many years, even cosmetic repairs. The kitchen set has been standing like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years old. Window frame old wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. Gas stove relatively new, but not meeting the requirements of the spouse.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave oven and the one mentioned in the prologue remained. washing machine.

It only remains to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the arrangement of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every scrap free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit that I did it.

General provisions

I won’t open America if I notice that before starting, it is necessary to create a project for the premises as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very striking, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Find on the Internet and study articles from the category of "20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen", "", "a", etc. From them it will become clear what standard sizes of furniture exist, what are kitchen facades, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be observed between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its installation dimensions and take it into account in the design. For what it is necessary and so it should be clear.

Design

Let's get back to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is vertical loading underwear. That is, unlike most washers, in my “working” is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. And so the idea was born. corner kitchen, where the sides of the corner are lockers, and the top is the machine. This arrangement is the most rational and gives maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the countertop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks were installed for household appliances. Later, laying of tiles on the floor and walls, and wallpapering took place. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I took up drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide the fact that if you master this specialized program, then in the future, according to your finished dimensions of the lockers, it will itself detail them and even offer the best fastener. My AutoCAD drawing came out much simpler, but, at the same time, quite visual.

Editor's Note: You could also use . Special knowledge is not required for use - take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the possibility of adjusting them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a blank plinth, and besides, there is (albeit limited) access under the cabinets (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for water or sewer leaks). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, just in its original form I thought that it would be two cabinets, but I already left the numbering as it is so as not to change) will open up with the help of gas elevators.

The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the aventos HF system.

The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on ordinary door hinges with a conductor.
An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers, which will be tightened with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to look at. To get to things standing in the depths, it is not necessary to conduct archaeological excavations. Shelves, on the other hand, often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your locker should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good at the end, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. This is exactly why it is necessary to do detailing - the division of the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will explain a few more points, what comes from where and how.

The height of the floor cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38mm (I have 38mm). The height of decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, under which the bottom and back wall are only adjusted (cut out of chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additive and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study and proceed to detailing.

Gas lifts and aventos are mounted on top-row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades by weight. In the construction market or in the store, the seller will advise you about these things, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened / held.

So, I present once again the scheme of the kitchen and the detailing that I got at the output.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

		WHD dimensions	Quantity, pcs	Material	Note

	Cabinet above the refrigerator

					2 holes under the hinges

	Drying cabinet above the sink				2 holes for hinges in the upper facade; glass cutout at the bottom. Get on the Aventos HF. Lacquered glass.



	Washer closet


					2 holes under the hinges

	Wall cabinet				2 holes for hinges in each facade; glass cutout at the bottom. sit down on door hinges and gas lifts. Lacquered glass.



	kitchen ceiling



	Wash cabinet


					2 holes under the hinges
	Oven cabinet




					Drawer front
					Drawer bottom
	Floor cabinets - 3 pcs				Drawers based on tandem boxes Boyard Swimbox SB 01-02 GR .1/400





					bottom of drawers
					Back wall
					Back wall
	tabletop				* a cutout is made for the window sill
					* a cutout is made for the window sill
Note: 1 - underlining indicates the side of the part that is glued with PVC edge, double underlining means that two sides of the part with this size are glued with the edge. If the edge thickness is 1 mm or more, then it must be taken into account when detailing.
Chipboard Kronospan Plastic Abet Laminati 410 Groove Edging Polcemic 50S 06/22 Egger worktop 38 mm, Lazio blue grey, matt. Lakomat glass (2 pcs)

With this detailing, I went to the office that cuts and pasted chipboard, chose the materials that suited my taste and placed an order. For all the material with the work came out 660 dollars (of which 120 for the countertop).

While my order was being made, I was directly engaged in the purchase of all the necessary accessories, hardware, as well as household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is shown in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

Name		Quantity, pcs	Price for 1 piece, c.u.	Total, c.u.	Note
Gas lifts
Facade handles
Chrome aluminum legs
Door hinges GTV	with closer
	without closer
Hinges for hanging cabinets
hanging profile
Aventas HF
Boyard tandem boxes	L=400, H=84 and 200				With closers

tray insert
Telescopic guide

hob	Kuppersberg FQ4TGW
Oven	Wirpool AKP 461WH
	polyhedron

TOTAL:

As a result, the cost of the headset (without appliances) was $1270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And now, a few days later, they brought me and unloaded a bunch of boards from laminated chipboard in front of the entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of sheets of fiberboard and a 38-mm Egger countertop. I distributed all this goodness among the rooms of the apartment, having previously made the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what closet I have

The most responsible, but at the same time, the most exciting part of the work begins - the assembly of finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

I need the following tools for my work:

corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t go anywhere without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones on the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I assembled a kitchen with them, a wardrobe in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot of other things.

Screwdriver + drill;
Electric jigsaw;
Special drill for confirmations (Euro couplers) and a hexagon bit;
center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
joiner's corner, tape measure and rulers;
A set of hammers and a mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for reaming parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately abandoned this idea in the process of work - confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products should be carried out on a large flat flat surface and the better, the larger it is.

In order not to get confused in the process of working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right sidewall outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that you can understand.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fasteners for gas lifts or adding telescopic rails for drawers) on individual parts, when they are not yet assembled in a box - you must agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a single part than to twist and turn every time there is a box on the table.

The algorithm of work is simple:

marking with a square (ruler) and a pencil;
pinning (possible with an awl or nail) a place for screwing;
screw tightening.

I advise you to pinch, because just to tighten the screw in laminated chipboard fail, it will scroll and slide off, which always causes considerable annoyance.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin to assemble the box itself. Here, the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work on a similar algorithm:

marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
punching;
fixing parts on corner clamps;
drilling with a confirmed drill;
tightening of details by confirmat.

The box is assembled, now it remains to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the box on the door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for fastening the hinges are cut with a milling cutter with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was taken care of by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach mating parts to the facade for the installation of gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

In the inner parts of the box we fasten the hinges for hanging.

At the finish, it remains to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach a handle to the facade.

It turned out such a locker, which we will have located above the refrigerator.

Assembling cabinet No. 2,3 with aventos system

Aventos are different types and they are installed on different cabinets. For a drying cabinet, the most convenient is the aventos of the HF system (these are aventos for two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shaped upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a locker is not easy, but it is not some kind of super task. Aventos always comes with detailed intelligible instructions, following which you will definitely succeed. In my Kessebohmer aventos there was even a special "drilling map" of holes, which simply had to be attached to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated according to the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We fasten power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time for the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower with a glass cutout. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet on ordinary door hinges, the facades are connected to each other by special overhead Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below, they are shown by the upper red arrow. The lower arrow points to the holes for the hinges, which were mistakenly drilled on the sharag. I didn’t scold them much, but I solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the aventos open, the back of the facade is not visible to the eye.

Reciprocal levels are also attached to the lower facade to snap levers onto them. Well, here's what it looks like assembled. It remains only to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of being assembled

Now we will deal with three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation inside retractable systems (tandemboxes).

Again, I repeat, the whole process is carried out according to the additive schemes that are supplied with the product. First, guides are seated and attached to the sides of the cabinet.

Drawer mounted on rails. A latch is snapped into the upper hole, which is attached to the facade.

A latch attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient, because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer in case of emergency. Plus, tandemboxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the facades vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 pieces) and you need to fit them together.

Fastening fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and fasten the handles. You need to drill the facade from the outside, and to the inside you need to firmly press a piece of some board, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will turn out to be even.

The cabinet with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the assembly of the cabinet by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with an external thread) is attached to the bottom of the cabinet with self-tapping screws, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows you to adjust the height of the legs, for example, to compensate for small uneven floors.

The rest of the floor cabinets (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable, their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing they differ from the rest is that there are no back walls in them (it is necessary to connect water and sewage pipes to the sink, and oven free ventilated space for hot air to circulate).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it's time to start installing the kitchen.

wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook that cling to a metal profile bar screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that the cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and in depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the upper row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang in level.

bottom row

We tightly compose the cabinets of the floor row, adjust them in height (twisting / unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a countertop and from below, through the side rails (cross bars), we fix the countertop with self-tapping screws. You can also resort to the help of corners.

On the countertop, we mark out places for embedding the sink and hob, drill a through hole so that you can insert a jigsaw blade and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes of the countertop with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply sealant to the front side of the countertop along the edge of the hole. Insert sink and remove rubber spatula squeezed out excess sealant. The same must be done for the hob, but only a heat-resistant sealant is needed.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row is tightly fitted to the window.

Well, here's how it all looks together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not much space on it, so the choice was made in favor of the bar counter, and not the traditional table, the place for which was only at the entrance to the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Especially for the ceiling, four parts were cut out of chipboard (the same from which the cabinets were assembled). Two pieces were made with rounding, which will be the completion of the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling fell on the top row cabinets. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut out, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the tabletop and put them on hidden shelf holders, previously fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended installation height of the bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but it turned out a little higher for me. The height of my rack was adjusted so that a microwave could fit in the free space between it and the floor row. It somehow turned out like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, spice jars and trays will appear above and below the counter.

Well, the whole composition was completed by the 50th chrome-plated pipe with a holder for glasses and a shelf for fruits. Under the rack on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were moving, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making for it the most expensive painting I could.

Well, here's what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my kitchen with my own hands is now ready.

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One of the important characteristics of any interior is the organization of storage. Any housewife will confirm that in the kitchen or in the bathroom this issue is particularly acute. In order to use every centimeter of space under sinks and sinks, cabinets are installed that create additional storage space for various household items, and also allow you to close communications, making the interior more harmonious and comfortable.

Preparatory stage

In order for the work to go like clockwork, it is necessary to prepare all the tools in advance, decide on the materials, and take measurements. These efforts can provide half the success if you do not ignore the preparation phase.

Choosing a material

The optimal material for such a product is different for everyone. Consider the features of the most popular:

Wood is a classic, durable and very “cozy” material, quite heavy and massive, which should be taken into account when manufacturing. suspended models. Must have a moisture resistant coating. Quite an expensive option.

Drywall is a common and inexpensive material, which is easy to work with, waterproof sheets are commercially available. However, rather fragile, mortise sinks will require reinforcement of the frame.

MDF - its advantages are moisture resistance and strength, which affects the cost - not the cheapest option.

Plastic is a great option for the bathroom, it is not afraid of water, however, it requires strengthening the structure, because it bends easily.

Glass is a rather difficult material, it is worth choosing if you are confident that you can handle it. Alternatively, glass can be made individual elements structures (internal shelves or doors), which will look great, for example, in combination with natural wood.

IMPORTANT!

If the cabinet is one of your first works, we advise you to choose a simpler and cheaper material option: drywall or MDF.

We take measurements

The dimensions of the cabinet directly depend on the size of the installed sink, as well as on the availability of free space in this area of the room. The countertop can be exactly the size of the sink, or it can be much larger, depending on the free space around the sink.

Height usually varies between 70-100 cm.

Necessary materials and tools

List necessary tools will largely depend on the material chosen, but you you will definitely need:

screws;
screwdriver;
drill;
screwdriver;
hacksaw or jigsaw;
hammer;
pliers.

In addition to parts from the base material, you will also need accessories - hinges, handles, as well as brushes, varnish and paint, if you need to further enhance the aesthetic properties of the cabinet.

Auxiliary elements, such as a pencil, tape measure.

Do-it-yourself sink cabinet for the kitchen: a step-by-step guide

Ready-made furniture does not always fit in size due to the characteristics of the room, making custom-made furniture takes a lot of time and is not cheap at all, but there is a way out - to make the cabinet yourself.

Creating a do-it-yourself sink cabinet is not so difficult if you have minimal skills in working with tools and the selected material.

Step 1. We cut blanks from the selected material in accordance with individual sizes. You will need the following details:

side walls (2 pcs.);
doors (1 or 2 depending on the design);
bottom plinth.

Step 2 We fix the bottom and side walls to each other with screws. The bottom should be located above the upper border of the plinth.

Step 3 We fix the bottom plinth.

Step 4 We install two spacer bars - one on the front part from above, flush with the side walls, the other on the back part 20 cm below the top.

Step 5 We prepare holes for fastening the hinges on which the doors will be hung, and fasten the hinges.

Step 6 We hang the doors on the hinges, insert the sink into the assembled body of the nightstand. Ready!

Now you can safely place various items under the sink, because there is now enough space there.

What is a kitchen sink stand? Logic dictates that this is what is under the table. In our case, this is an object located under the kitchen sink - that is, a cabinet that serves as a support for it. In modern furniture sets, it is almost impossible to meet it without a countertop - this is a temporary option or a solution for giving. But the principle of its manufacture is practically no different from the assembly of a similar pedestal under - the difference in size and nothing more. That is why this article on our website will be useful for everyone who is going to design a kitchen set on their own. The principle is the same, and we will get acquainted with it in this article.

Cabinet under the sink: underframe photo

Underframe under the sink in the kitchen: a few words about the size

The whole charm of the underframe cabinet for the overhead sink lies in the full compliance of its dimensions with the dimensions of the sink itself - this moment greatly facilitates the process of its manufacture. Here we can safely say that we are talking about a standard product and it will be difficult to miss. To be specific and speak in numbers, the depth of such a pedestal is usually 600mm, the width depends on and can be 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000 and even 1200mm, and the standard height is 850mm from the floor to its upper edge.

Underframe for sink photo

Everything is simple, but not very simple - this is not quite a rectangular box, consisting of three or four planks. In most cases, shelves and even drawers are built into the middle of the cabinet, which you will also have to count if you are wondering how to make a do-it-yourself sink stand? The principle of their design is also quite simple, and if you understand it, then you can make any without exception. There are few main nuances that can lead to an error here - only two.

The thickness of the material used - sometimes people forget about it and, as a result, they get not quite what they wanted. Sometimes even such mistakes are critical. It must be remembered that if one board is fastened between two others, then in order to obtain the required size from the outside of the product, the thickness of these two boards taken together must be subtracted from the length of the board inserted between them.
The next point concerns the doors. Every millimeter is important here - you can’t just take, measure a rectangle and cut out two doors according to it. At a minimum, they will not close after installation - you need to take into account the gap between the two halves of the doors and the same gap between the doors of adjacent cabinets. The gap between the door and the sink is also important. In general, the result is the following picture - the resulting actual size of the doors must be reduced in width by 4mm and in height by 2mm. Only in this case the doors will work adequately.

There are other nuances associated with the size of the pieces of furniture. The principle remains the same, especially when it comes to moving parts. Remember that millimeters are very important here, and everything will be fine (no need to redo it). To make it easier to understand the solution to the question of how to make a cabinet under the sink, watch the video on its assembly.

What to make a stand under the sink in the kitchen with your own hands

You can make a sink under the sink from different materials, but in most cases, furniture chipboard is the cheapest material, which, at a relatively low cost, allows you to make a pretty nightstand with your own hands. You can, of course, opt for natural wood, but processing it will require you some specialized equipment. In addition, such cabinets are temporary or summer cottages, so there is no point in making a beautiful wooden thing. Although, who knows - if the dacha is decent, and you are a DIY enthusiast and have the necessary skills and tools, then why not? Let's take a closer look at the materials that can be used to make the underframe.

In principle, you can use more simple ways manufacture of this type of product. A cheap and angry option is just four supports connected to each other around the perimeter by a board. Anything can be used as supports - and metal pipes, And wooden beam, and even just dried tree trunks. It all depends on your requirements for aesthetics, imagination and skillful hands. In fact, such a product can even be woven from a vine.

The principle of manufacturing bedside tables: detailed instructions

Since we have come to the conclusion that chipboard is the most optimal material for the underframe cabinet in terms of price and manufacturing technology, then we will consider it as source material. The technology, as mentioned above, is quite simple and it looks like this.

Now we can safely say that the underframe in the kitchen is ready, and it can be installed in the allotted place. Still, however, it remains to install handles on the doors, but these are already trifles, and you will deal with this issue yourself. In this way, with the right approach to business and competent cutting of furniture chipboard, you can also make a corner stand for a sink - it is important to understand the principle itself, and assembling any cabinet furniture will not seem too difficult for you.

And in conclusion, I’ll add only one thing to the topic - or rather, I’ll remind you that 80% of success in this matter depends on the correct cutting and the quality of the end processing, which, if not properly processed, can pretty much spoil the appearance of the product.

This is how the underframe is made under the sink in the kitchen with your own hands. If this work seems too complicated for you, then part of it can be delegated to special enterprises involved in cutting furniture chipboard - you just have to assemble the cabinet and enjoy the work done.

When choosing such an intuitive and simple piece of furniture, it is important to pay attention to details, because a kitchen sink cabinet can also become an additional storage place for various small things, a stylish element of decor. Let us consider in more detail the selection criteria, taking into account the size of the kitchen, the type of models and the durability of materials. Or maybe it’s worth making an original sink with your own hands and decorating it for the interior?

modern furniture It has various forms and dimensions, it is made of expensive and economy class materials. In order not to get confused in a wide range, we will try to determine the main parameters that you need to pay attention to when buying.

Multiple bowl option

Differences in form and type of structures

Depending on the place allotted in the environment, you can choose the desired configuration of the locker.

There are three types of structures:

Straight - a classic rectangular or square bedside table, which is easy to build in anywhere on the work surface, except for the corners, or take it out to a separate "island". Depending on the size, you can think of several shelves for storing dishes, drawers, and build in a washing machine.

Roomy straight

Corner - cabinet, which is adjacent to two perpendicular walls of the room. Can have a rectangular, L-shaped or triangular shape, takes up little space, suitable for small spaces. But such structures have a significant drawback - in order to comfortably use their interior space, you will have to equip furniture with additional devices - drawers, brackets or carousels.

Rational use of space

Trapezoidal - roomy model with one or more doors, compartments, wide table top. Allows you to build a sink of any shape, place inside a lot of shelves with dishes.

multifaceted

As for the shape of the shells themselves, it all depends on personal preferences. There are models of square, round, oval, rectangular and asymmetric shapes. Models in the form of a wide rectangle are considered the most capacious; they can wash both a large pot and a baking sheet.

Rectangular bowls are the most spacious

Many housewives prefer sinks with several compartments (double, triple), where one bowl is used for washing dishes, the second for defrosting food or fruits / vegetables. The number of compartments can vary from 1 to 5. Convenient with a special mesh or ribbed surface designed for drying.

On a note! For added convenience, the sink can be equipped with grates, a basket, cutting board, colander. Models designed for spacious kitchens - in small room they take up a lot of work surface space. One of the most functional "bonuses" is a food waste chopper.

The optimal size of the kitchen sink

To determine the dimensions, it is important to consider not only the availability of free space, but the size of the kitchen itself. For medium and small rooms, small straight or corner models are suitable. Massive trapezoidal or rectangular with a wide table top is best installed in a large room.

Kitchen island

On a note! A standard straight bedside table has a width of 50 cm, a depth of 60 cm, but models with a width of at least 80 cm are considered the most comfortable. The most popular dimensions of the corner structure are 90 * 90 cm.

An important size parameter for a sink is its depth. If you wash dishes in a shallow bowl, splashes will scatter on the walls and adjacent cabinets, and too deep washing is corny inconvenient - you have to constantly bend over. Models with a depth ranging from 16 to 20 cm are considered optimal.

Important! The size of the sink should be such that from it to the wall and the edge of the countertop there is a gap of at least 5 cm, and the distance to the stove is 50 cm or more.

Work zone

Cabinet installation methods

Depending on the configuration and material of the furniture, the sink can be installed in three ways. Each of them has its own operational features.

Overhead - a classic option for a straight nightstand with a collapsible table top. The “roof” is removed from the furniture, the place of which is occupied by the sink and fixed by the edges. This option is most suitable for self-assembly- even a beginner will not have any difficulties with installation and connection to communications.

Sink cover option

Mortise - a hole is made in the countertop of the cabinet, where the sink is lowered. To increase the tightness of the joints, a rubber seal is used, and the seam is additionally treated with a special two-component adhesive. On your own, such a model can be installed on wooden countertops (MDF, solid wood, chipboard), but for surfaces made of artificial stone, you should call a specialist.

Mortise for wooden kitchen

Integrated - form one unit with the tabletop due to the careful fit and snug fit. Such bowls are not suitable for self-assembly - it is extremely difficult to achieve a monolithic surface without the necessary skills and materials. Therefore, they are made to order along with the countertop.

Integrated artificial stone model

Integrated sinks are most often made of natural or artificial stone. This is the most expensive design, but also the most practical - the absence of sides and high-quality polished joints exclude the penetration of water and small debris, guarantee ease of use, and long service life of the furniture.

On a note! Monolithic ones differ in installation cost. Most simple models literally hold on to one glue - with a heavy load or from the operation of the grinder, gaps may form at the joints. Professional installation requires an exact match.

The integrated model looks like a continuation of the countertop

Materials for sinks and cabinets

Cabinets are made from the same materials as kitchen sets. The most popular materials: chipboard, MDF and solid wood. Price is the deciding factor for many.

chipboard - the most a budget option with a huge range color solutions. Disadvantage: the threat of formaldehyde resin fumes in case of poor-quality edge processing or damage to the protective layer of chipboard. The main thing is that a moisture-resistant plate is used in production. The best coverage– laminate high pressure HPL.

Chipboard or MDF coatings can imitate almost any material

MDF - can be called the "golden mean" between price and quality. This is a board made of wood shavings, in which only natural materials serve as a binder: lignin and paraffin. In structure, it is denser than chipboard, holds fasteners better and does not evaporate harmful substances. The best option would also be a coating with HPL plastic - it is the most scratch resistant, has a wide variety of colors and fits snugly to the surface without letting moisture through.
An array is expensive, it can swell or dry out from hot air. It looks impressive due to the unique structure of the tree, but requires constant care. Undeniable advantages are the reliability of fastenings and the possibility of restoring damaged surfaces.

The countertop can also be made from solid wood.

If you can quickly decide on the choice of material, then you usually have to think about buying a sink. Let's take a closer look at the three most popular options for modern interiors.

Stainless steel sinks

Stainless steel is a classic material known for its durability, strength and hygiene. You can choose an economy model, and a premium class - it all depends on the thickness of the sheet and the quality of the seams. When choosing a stainless model, give preference to welded - made using the technology of "invisible seams", so that it lasts longer. As for the type of coating, the most practical is matte or “anti-graphic”: drops and scratches are not so noticeable on it as on a mirror gloss.

Original stainless steel bowl

Flaws:

The instability of the coating to scratches, after which corrosion spots may form.
Monotonous design that does not differ in variety colors.
Loud noise of water hitting metal (may be compensated with sound-absorbing padding or thickness).

Sound-absorbing pad will significantly reduce the noise effect of stainless steel

Stainless steels made of AISI 18/10 steel are considered to be of the highest quality - in this grade of metal, the chromium content must be at least 18%, and nickel - 10%. The optimal thickness of the steel is at least 0.9 mm (and preferably 1-1.5 mm). On the market you can often find offers of economy class sinks. Before agreeing to a tempting purchase, ask the seller for a certificate or passport for the product. If the ASTI 202 brand is indicated in it, this is the designation of technical steel, which is easily corroded and quickly fails. If everything is in order with the metal, check its thickness - cheap products with an indicator of 0.4-0.6 mm can be deformed from heavy dishes.

Advice! When buying a stainless steel sink, take a magnet with you: if it sticks, the protective layer is too thin, and rust will form on the metal over time. It is optimal when the magnet slides over the surface or does not react to it.

Ceramic sinks - pros and cons

Cabinet with a ceramic sink looks stylish, especially if you place it near the window - reflections sun rays on a glossy surface will give the interior bright accent. Modern models are made from porcelain or faience (porcelain is considered more durable, but also costs twice as much).

In addition to the spectacular appearance This material has other advantages:

Does not require special care - it is perfectly cleaned with detergents and warm water.
Resistant to high temperatures.
Eco-friendly.
It is distinguished by low noise (ceramics is able to absorb sounds, so the noise of the water jet will be almost imperceptible, unlike a table with a stainless steel sink).
Holds heavy dishes with ease.
The color does not fade or wash out.
It can have a different texture, decor and non-standard shape.

Ceramics can be the highlight of the kitchen

This model is quite heavy, so the nightstand must be designed to support an impressive weight. Snow-white faience ceramics may darken over time, and stains from bright dyes may form on colored ones (porcelain is better protected from these shortcomings). The most significant minus of a ceramic bowl is fragility. Once you do not hold the cast-iron pan - and cracks or chips can form on the surface of the sink. And a plate or glass that slips out of your hand is almost guaranteed not to withstand falling onto a ceramic surface.

Sinks made of artificial stone

Liquid stone or acrylic - the most affordable option. Such sinks are made to order along with a countertop, but there are also more economical options - overhead, mortise models. Produce liquid stone from mineral chips and acrylic resins, as a result, the surface is durable, light and with a pleasant roughness.

Mortise model made of artificial stone

Flaws:

May crack or dent from boiling water, a hot pot or pan.
Changes color from food, chemical dyes.
From abrasive detergents and hard washcloths leave noticeable scratches.
The dark color may fade in the sun.

Innovative materials such as tectonite or agglomerate deserve special attention. In their composition, about 80-90% is occupied by stone chips (quartz, marble, granite) with the addition of fiberglass and polyester resins. They withstand temperatures up to 300 degrees, are not afraid of scratches, do not lose color after exposure to ultraviolet radiation and detergents, and reliably imitate the structure natural stone. Manufacturers additionally treat surfaces with an antibacterial and dirt-repellent coating. The only drawback is the high price.

Integrated quartz agglomerate bowl

Note! Connoisseurs of natural stone can purchase a container made of marble, onyx or granite, but they are expensive, because they are hollowed out of the rock and need regular processing protective compounds. This is an exclusive item that will only be appropriate in luxurious interior, whose owners spend little time cooking. In terms of performance, agglomerate sinks will outperform even granite.

A model made of natural stone will become a luxurious element of decor

Making a cabinet with your own hands

Despite the huge selection of furniture, it is not always possible to buy what is needed for a custom-sized kitchen. In this case, there are two options: draw up a sketch, take measurements and entrust the manufacture to a master furniture maker, or get down to business on your own.

The easiest way self-manufacturing– alteration of one of the direct elements kitchen set. To do this, you need to disassemble the cabinet, cut holes for communications on the back wall, and cut a hole to fit the sink. You can go further and make a nightstand from MDF, chipboard or wood from scratch.

Model from an old cabinet

On a note! For home experiments, it is better to take MDF or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm. DS boards are easy to cut, but in artisanal conditions it is difficult to edge them with high quality in order to prevent formaldehyde evaporation.

In addition to the base materials, you will need:

Consignment note or mortise (for self-assembly, the best option is stainless steel).
Furniture screws.
Electric jigsaw or wood saw.
Sandpaper.
Antifungal primer for wood.
Fittings: door hinges, handles, inner corners.

Before you go to the store for building materials, you need to draw a sketch of the future product on paper. You will have to rely on your own measurements and the availability of free space in the calculations.

Corner cabinet - the most popular solution for small rooms, but in order to construct it with your own hands, you will need an accurate calculation and a detailed drawing, for example this:

Scheme for the manufacture of corner tables

Advice! In order not to be mistaken in details, use special programs(for example, "Basis-Mebelshchik", "PRO100" or "AutoCAD"), with which you can not only calculate the quantity necessary materials and components, but also to create a visual projection of the future product.

Work algorithm:

According to the drawn up drawing from plywood or particle board cut blanks under the walls, bottom and doors. If you are planning a countertop sink, you will not need a countertop - you just need to choose a sink of the appropriate size. If it is large enough, it is better to equip it with a mortise model, and add the countertop area to the blanks.

Assembly diagram

Wooden fragments are sanded and treated with a primer.
After drying, they assemble the box for the cabinet using internal corners and self-tapping screws.
On the back wall or bottom, cuts are made for pipes, and in the table lid - a hole for the bowl.

Hole cut along the contour

Doors and handles are hung on the front.
A container is lowered into the slot and sealed with silicone.
It is recommended to treat the finished cabinet with any waterproof coating - varnish, paint, PVC film. After that, the structure is fixed on the wall with dowels, and the sink is connected to communications.

In a homemade cabinet, you can install simple internal shelves

Modeling for an overhead sink in AutoCAD

Two ways to install a stainless steel bowl:

Cutting into the table top:

You can assemble a cabinet for a kitchen sink with your own hands, but it will take a lot of time and effort. It is easier to entrust the manufacture of furniture experienced craftsmen, who will do everything for your interior, help you install and connect to the pipeline correctly.

How to make a sink cabinet. How to make a cabinet for a kitchen sink with your own hands. Ceramic sinks - pros and cons