Do-it-yourself door hinges. Hinged loop from improvised materials Installation of overhead loops

Installing hinges on the door is an important stage in the installation of the door leaf and frame. On the one hand, this process does not cause any problems, since it comes down to installing the hinges themselves and fixing the door leaf, and on the other hand, it requires time, as well as patience and the availability of tools necessary for installation. Before you install door hinges with your own hands, think about whether you can achieve high quality work. It is from the correct installation of hinges and doors on them that their further operation largely depends.

Varieties of door hinges

Features of the installation of certain loops will depend on their variety. Loops are classified according to the features of the structure and fastening into three main types:

• Overhead. Consist of two identical parts fastened together. One piece is attached to door frame, the other - on the canvas. There are also, which are a single whole. Installation of overhead loops does not require special skills and is the simplest and most accessible to everyone.

Mortise. They differ in a more complex and lengthy installation, which requires special equipment and skills to work with it. The complexity of installation is offset by the wide distribution of mortise hinges, as well as their reliability and durability.

• Screw-in. They are fastened with threaded pins - they are screwed into the door leaf, thereby securely fastening to its surface. Usually installed in the amount of three pieces per door, they differ in the number of mounting pins.

There are also hidden door hinges, which are very difficult to install, but guarantee excellent security and safety of the home.

Preparing the necessary tools

The installation process is unthinkable without a set of certain materials, tools and equipment necessary for work. So, before starting installation, you should prepare:

• door hinges.
• screwdriver and a set of screws.
• pencil (required for marking).
• a set of wooden wedges for leveling the structure.
• building level.
• hammer and chisel.

After you have verified that working area there are the tools and materials listed above, you can proceed with the installation door hinges.

Proper marking

Installing door hinges by eye is unacceptable - even a small error can lead to distortion and deformation of the door leaf and structure. Marking is done with a pencil as follows:

1. Attach the hinges to the places of the intended installation. The placement of the hinges should be carried out with a minimum indentation from the edges of the door (top and bottom) by 20 centimeters.
2. Circle the hinges attached to the door end with a pencil, then set them aside.
3. Using a chisel and a hammer, make indentations in the marked areas necessary for installing the mortise hinges.

Pay close attention to the thickness of the recess. If it exceeds the thickness of the hinge, when closing the door will rest against the box. Ultimately, this will lead to deformation of the door leaf and problems with opening and closing the door.

Before you install the hinges on the door, you need to mark the door frame. This operation will require skill and patience to correctly determine the location of the loop:

1. Install the canvas in the box and fix it with wooden wedges as it should be in the installed state. To align the door leaf, use the building level.
2. After aligning the canvas, mark on the box where the door hinges come into contact with the door.
3. As in the case with door leaf, using a hammer and chisel, make the required number of recesses for installing door hinges.

The alignment of the door leaf in the box should be carried out not only vertically, but also horizontally. Wrong vertical installation will cause the door to open spontaneously, and the horizontal one will make it difficult to close it.

Proper installation of door hinges

Installation of mortise hinges

Inserting hinges into an interior door is the most difficult procedure of all possible, therefore, having mastered it, you can easily install overhead and screwed hinges. The installation procedure for mortise hinges is as follows:

1. Drown the hinges in the recesses made in the previous stages of work on the door.
2. Using a screwdriver, make holes in the tree for the hinges.
3. Take screws of suitable diameter and, using a screwdriver, fasten the hinges on the door leaf with them.
4. Install the door in doorway and secure it with wooden wedges.
5. Dredge the loops in the recesses made, then repeat steps 2-3.

During installation, make sure that the door is level in the frame and does not move during installation. Before you hang the door on the hinges, carefully align it in the doorway using the building level (as when marking).

Installation of overhead loops

This is the easiest to use method that does not require cutting and preliminary preparation of the door and door frame (without creating recesses). Simplicity lies both in the design of such loops and in the features of installation - you don’t have to think about how to weld the loops and fix them in the nest as firmly as possible.

Installation is similar to the installation of mortise hinges, however, the parts are not installed in special recesses, but are simply screwed to the end of the door and frame with screws. As in the previous case, it is important to maintain the correct position of the door leaf in space throughout the installation of the hinges.

Installation of screw hinges

Installation of screw door hinges will not cause problems even for a novice master. Typically, installation comes down to three simple steps:

1. Before you put the hinges on the door, you need to drill holes in the door leaf according to a special template that usually comes with the hinges. Nests for hinges are drilled both on the door and on the frame, on the same level.

1. The next step is to install the hinges in their places. One half is placed on the door, the second on the box.
2. The final stage is the "stringing" of the door hinges on the box hinges. This completes the simple installation of the hinges.

After the installation is completed, it is recommended to prevent squeaking when opening and closing doors, as well as to extend the life of door hinges. If you have any questions about correct installation door hinges, you can get Additional information from the video (as well as fixing the information already obtained from this article), which can be found and played below.

Every home craftsman should know how to install hinges on a door. The quality functioning of interior structures directly depends on the correct installation of these small parts.

So many of us, when choosing, do not even think about how important loops are for such structures. We are sure that the design of the door leaf and the reliability of the box being purchased are much more important, and everything else is trifles. This approach to choosing a door is wrong. A canvas without well-chosen canopies will be just a blank. There is no sense from her. Only after installing the hinges, the door turns into a functional structure.

Loops for interior doors

There are five types door canopies which are most commonly used today. Before you install the hinges on the interior door with your own hands, you need to understand their design. The specificity of the latter determines the features of the installation of canopies. The following are the common types of loops:

1. Card (otherwise they are called direct). The simplest canopies, equipped with special plates on the sides.
2. Corner. In fact, they are the same card loops, from which they differ only in the shape of the (angular) plates. Such canopies are usually placed on interior doors of a pendulum design.
3. Hidden. Hinges mounted on expensive products. Hidden canopies have a special hinge, which is recessed into the door leaf.
4. Screwed. These products do not have plates. Instead, there are pins on the swivel axle. Screw-in awnings are ideal for light curtains.
5. Italian. They have a hinge with a special design. Such hinges are usually mounted on European-made doors.

Canopies for interior structures are also divided into universal, left- and right-handed. The first of these can be placed on either side of the canvas. According to the method of installation, the hinges are divided into mortise (they form a single surface with the door, as they are mounted in recesses prepared in advance), overhead (placed directly on top of the door structure) and screw-in (they are screwed in with pins).

We begin to figure out how to properly install the hinged products of interest to us different types. The very first step is marking the door leaf. You need to step back from the top and bottom of the door by 0.2 m and mark the initial lines (use a simple pencil). After that, apply the hinges to the completed outlines (be sure to take into account the direction in which the door structure will open), circle their contour. And then put the appropriate marks at the attachment points.

Fitting and installation of loops

At this stage, you should carefully examine the condition of the canvas. In areas where canopies will be installed, there should be no defects, in particular knots or cracks. If during installation you begin to screw fasteners into problem areas, there is a high probability that the door will crack or warp. If defects are found in the marked area, re-mark so that the attachment points of the canopies are a couple of centimeters away from cracks and knots.

Now you can assemble the door block and mark the mounting points of the hinges already on the box. In this case, it is necessary to maintain small (literally 2–3 mm) gaps between the door leaf and the door frame. This procedure is easiest to perform before the door structure is mounted in its proper place. If you have already installed the door, fix it (as tightly as possible) with wooden wedges in the opening.

When the mass of the interior door is large enough, you need to hang it not on two, but on three hinges. At the same time, the latter should not be cut in the middle of the canvas, as many believe, but with some offset towards the canopy located on top. In this case, you will be able to correctly adjust the load that affects the fittings used. The third hinge must be installed if the door is larger than standard (50 mm thick, 200 cm high, 80 cm wide).

Card-type hinges (angular and simple) are mounted very easily. Moreover, this operation can be performed in two ways. The first is suitable for canopies, the two parts of which are characterized different form. Hinges of this type are one in one when closing the interior door. Due to this, they are mounted directly on the surface of the canvas.

Card loop

To install such canopies, you will need an electric drill. There are two nuances here:

1. If the hinges are placed on a heavy door, it is necessary to pre-drill holes in it, only after that you can start screwing in the screws.
2. Hardware can be screwed in immediately, without first making holes for them, if you are dealing with lightweight structures made of plastic or wood-fiber material.

The second installation technique assumes that you slightly sink the canopies into the door. In this case, when closing, they will never stop the canvas (when using the first installation method, this situation occurs quite often).

Notches for loops are recommended to be made with a regular chisel. Just cut off the material on the loot and on the door itself to the depth of the mounted canopy. And then attach the latter to the site of its installation and fix with fasteners. Mount and fix corner products in the same way. Place one half of them on the end of the door leaf, the second on the loot.

Modern models of interior doors, as a rule, are equipped with better and more innovative fittings. Similar designs need to be mounted on hidden canopies. Such hinges are much easier to care for, they rarely need repair, as they have a high level of operational reliability. Yes, and a purely outwardly installed covert canopy makes the appearance of the door more attractive, without burdening the canvas with well-marked hinged elements.

Hidden Loop Example

For correct installation hidden loops, an electric milling cutter is required. Without it, you will not be able to perform the operation yourself. The installation itself, in the presence of such a tool, is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Mark the attachment points of the canopies according to the algorithm described in detail above.
2. With an electric cutter, cut out recesses for the loops. And then you additionally process these areas with a chisel.
3. Disassemble the hidden canopy into two parts. There is very important point. The elements of the loops have different geometric dimensions. You need to install a part with large parameters in the door frame, and a smaller part in the door leaf. And nothing else!
4. Secure most of the mechanism with self-tapping screws.
5. Connect the mounted elements into a single structure and with some effort, but very carefully tighten the mounting screw.

Screw-type canopies are most often used to install feigned interior structures. It is very easy to distinguish such loops from ordinary card loops. The first ones have special threaded pins on the sides. It is they who allow the installation of canopies. We repeat that screwed products cannot be placed on doors with a lot of weight. Italian awnings are mounted in the same way as standard card awnings. But with one feature. They are placed below and above the door leaf, and not at the ends, as is the case with card products. We hope that now you will be able to install hinges of any type on your interior doors without the help of specialists. door structures. Good luck!

Who among us has not witnessed how an unlucky buyer in a hardware store is painfully trying to figure out which hinges he needs - left or right?

So, when I decided to replace the old and not very pretty hinges at the doors to the bathroom and the toilet, I did not immediately remember how to distinguish them. And the matter is, in general, simple. Detachable hemispherical hinges (exactly the ones I needed) have a fixed rod in the bottom card (this part of the hinge is installed on the door frame), and the upper part of the hinge, which is attached to the door leaf (top card), has a cap-shaped hinge that is put on the rod.

It is the hemispherical loops that are left and right. The left ones are for doors that open to the left, the right ones are for doors that open to the right. Determining which loops are required is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to stand in front of the door so that it needs to be opened for yourself. If the loops are located on the right, then they are called right loops. And if on the left, then, respectively, on the left.

However, I needed both, because the bathroom and toilet doors opened in different directions.

True, there was a doubt: should the hinges be changed to one-piece ones? Now on sale there are mainly such. But they have a number of disadvantages compared to hemispherical ones. Firstly, it is more difficult to hang the door on one-piece hinges alone, since you have to hold it on weight and at the same time screw in the fixing screws. Secondly, it becomes much more difficult to adjust the door leaf in height. So I settled on new detachable hinges.

Operating procedure

First you need to remove the door from the hinges. You can do this without outside help if you use a bar with a section of 40 * 40 mm and trim a not very thick board. The bar is placed in front open door as a support, and the board is slipped under the door leaf, placed on a bar and used as a lever.

This allows you to remove the door alone without any extra effort, without overloading your back. Then unscrew the old hinges. It is good if the slots of the screws are not damaged and not too smeared with paint, as is often the case. Otherwise, you must first clear them. In addition, the tip of the screwdriver must exactly match the slot of the screw.

If you can’t unscrew the screws “with a swoop”, you can try to wet them with kerosene (so that it seeps onto the thread) or attach a heated soldering iron to the screw head. Sometimes it is possible to move the screw from its place by turning it a little first clockwise (in the direction of twisting). Motorists can use the so-called impact screwdriver. If all of the above methods did not help, then the old screws will have to be drilled out.

If the old hinge was too deep into the door frame, you can use a nest-shaped insert cut from hardboard. Having previously aligned the old nest in the door frame with a chisel, install an insert into it and screw the hinge card to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.

To facilitate the installation of the door leaf, the rod at the bottom hinge can be shortened slightly. To do this, some part is sawn off from it with an ordinary hacksaw for metal and a chamfer is chamfered at the end of the rod after sawing off with a needle file.

The next operation is the installation of the upper parts of the hinges (upper cards) on the door leaf. Perhaps, in this case, you will first have to slightly correct the nests on the edge of the door leaf and only then screw the hinges. After the cards are screwed, it remains to hang the door leaf in place. At the same time, it is lifted above the floor and held with the help of a lever that was used when removing the door.

The door is installed, but there is another aspect of the work being done - lubricating the hinges. There are different lubricants for this. For example, a proven grandfather's lead from a soft pencil. You need to slightly raise the door leaf and push the stylus

into the gap between the rubbing surfaces of the hinge, and then lower the canvas and open and close the door several times. Graphite will be ground to powder and eliminate squeaks as well as any other lubricant.

But there is also modern materials, borrowed from the arsenal of motorists. These are aerosol semi-synthetic lubricants with a high degree of adhesion, designed for machining parts in hard-to-reach places. For example, HHS 2000 grease. Such compounds easily penetrate into the smallest gaps in the mechanism and form a sticky film that is resistant to high loads (pressure or vibration).

In addition, they provide hinge rod reliable protection from corrosion. Of course, this is not very relevant for a city apartment, but for country house- very important. By the way, almost all modern hinges are sold treated with just such lubricants.

How to change door hinges - progress of work

1. The hinges have served for many years and are obsolete.
2. Left and right hinges of modern production.
3. A simple lever made from improvised materials will help to remove the door.
4. Unscrewing old hinges can sometimes be very difficult.
5. The old socket in the door frame must be adjusted to fit the new hinge.
6. If the nest is chosen too deep, you can install a hardboard insert into it.
7. The hinge card is screwed to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.
8. To facilitate the installation of the door leaf, the rod at the bottom hinge can be shortened slightly.
9. After sawing off the rod with a file, the chamfer is removed.
10. If necessary, the nests on the edge of the door leaf also need to be corrected.
11. The top hinge card is screwed to the door leaf.
12. The door panel is in place.

Replacing door hinges - photo

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High-quality fittings are an important condition for long-term and stable operation of the door system. You just need to buy loops right size. If those are not available, home-made hinges will come to the rescue, which are made independently, taking into account the parameters and weight of the sash. To do this, prepare the tool and materials.

Loop made by yourself

Why choose homemade?

Many people refuse industrially made fittings in favor of home-made ones for several reasons. Such products:

• Withstand a significant load. What is relevant for garage doors and massive doors;
• Have the required size. If the parameters manufactured in industrial environment standardized, then in the manufacture of their own choose the size that is required;
• They have a high level of reliability, since the fittings manufactured for themselves have a high level of strength compared to those produced in the factory. You can always choose a material with high mechanical properties and greater thickness.

We make loops with our own hands

The loop making process is simple. In order for the fittings to turn out to be of high quality, you must be able to perform on your own different kinds works.

We prepare tools and materials

To make high-quality fittings at home, prepare the right tools, materials and equipment. The following tools and equipment must be available:

• Roulette or other measuring tool. Sometimes you can get by with a regular ruler, but in this case it must fully comply with regulatory requirements;
• A marker that writes on metal. Instead of a marker, you can take chalk;
• Hacksaw with metal blade. Those who know how to use a grinder can use this equipment if it is available;
• File;
• Hammer;
• welding machine with suitable technical specifications, as well as personal protective equipment that is necessary for welding.

Cooking tool

Also prepare:

• Metal plate 2-3 mm thick;
• Pipe section;
• Steel rod. Its diameter is consistent with the inner diameter of the pipe section. The rod is chosen so that it fits inside the pipe with a slight interference. It is better to refuse a rod, the size of which is smaller than the internal dimensions of the pipe.

When choosing a material, pay attention to its characteristics. The plate, tubes and rod must be capable of withstanding the applied operating load.

Manufacturing sequence

Initially, two pieces of pipe are sawn off. The total length depends on the size of the door leaf. So if it is 11 cm, you need to prepare the first piece of pipe 5 cm long. Before cutting the pipe to the desired size, carefully mark it. You will also need a piece of pipe, the length of which is 1 cm longer, i.e. - 6 cm. As a result, the total length is 11 cm.

After sawing off, burrs often form on the metal surface, which can cause injury during installation work. To prevent this from happening, remove the defects with a file. Wear gloves to avoid injury to your hands. Process on both sides.

Once the tubes are ready, prepare the rod. Its length is equal to the total length of the pipes, that is, 11 cm. For this, marking is applied to the surface of the bar and sawed off. The cutting line must be perpendicular to the conditional axis of the bar.

Having cut the rod and pipes to size, they are connected together. To do this, a bar is pressed into the sleeve. As soon as the sleeves take their place, the plates are prepared. Their size is coordinated with the dimensions of the door and the dimensions of the manufactured hinges. There should be two such plates, and they have the same length. On this preparatory stage ends. Moving on to welding.

After making sure that the bar has taken the desired position inside the sleeve, the ends of both tubes are welded. This eliminates the displacement of the rod inside the pipe during operation.

The plates are then welded to the sleeves. They are located perpendicular to the conditional axis of the sleeves. To do this, the plates are first grabbed, and then, after making sure that they are in the correct spatial arrangement, they are finally welded.

decoration

To make the manufactured loops look beautiful, they are painted or galvanized. Both of these options allow you to give the surface a beautiful appearance and protect from external negative influences. To do this, the thickness of the applied coating must be sufficient for specific operating conditions.

After decorating, the fittings look almost the same as those sold by official manufacturers. In this case, you can always choose the color of the product that you want. So if you can find accessories on sale, usually black, then self-made hinges can be painted in any suitable color.

Finished fittings

Hinge installation

After the fittings are completely ready, they are installed. To do this, one plate is screwed to the sash, the second - to the door leaf. Fastening is done in such a way that the plate with the upper sleeve is screwed to the door, and the second part to the vertical post of the box. During installation, the manufactured loop is assembled into a complete product.

Hinge installation

To prevent seizing during operation, a lubricant is added between the mating surfaces. The amount of grease should be sufficient to allow the pin to rotate easily inside the sleeves.

Fittings installed

Other options

Not everyone can boast of having welding machine at home. For others, such products turn out to be an expensive option, which is a pity to install on a light door. In this case, the necessary fittings are made from improvised materials. Which option will be suitable depends on the size of the door leaf, and the material of the door leaf.

To do this, prepare the conveyor belt and metal plates. Their thickness can be relatively small. You can take metal, the thickness of which is not much greater than the thickness of the sheets that are used in the manufacture cans. To fasten the fittings, prepare nails, the length of which is 4 - 5 cm.

Installation of hinges is carried out by placing the canvas in the doorway. Between the vertical post and the door leaf, leave one centimeter on the side where the hinges are located. Having fixed the position of the door, the hinges are nailed. To do this, first place the conveyor belt, and on top - metal plates. The conveyor belt in this case acts as a flexible element that provides opening and closing of the sash.

Such fittings are suitable for light doors that are installed at the entrance to a chicken coop or a place where rabbits are kept. Their distinctive feature there is no creaking during operation, as well as the possibility of operation without lubrication.

Thus, everyone can make loops on their own. Suitable for garage doors and entrance doors. If you approach the manufacturing process responsibly, you can make your home a real fortress. High-quality and durable fittings withstand external loads, and at the same time have an aesthetically attractive appearance.

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In the process of manufacturing an aircraft model, you need to buy or make your own hinges for hanging the rudders. The easiest way is to buy in a store if the store is around the corner. But what if there is nowhere to buy? This is where a modeller is not a modeller, if he cannot make simple and reliable loops for his aircraft on his own! Here I will give a few examples of making hinges for hanging rudders.

1. Homemade, very strong hinges:

You will need 0.3mm thick sheet metal from Beck^s cans and a paper clip d = 1mm. All we need is to cut the blanks to the sizes we need.

and assemble the structure as in the photo. It is better to make several holes in the cheeks of the loops, so that the home-made loops for the aircraft model would hold better.

But these were on my 1.5 meter pilotage:

2. Homemade dropper loops:

New-style droppers, with thin, transparent tubes, are best suited. We just cut off the segment we need, cut it in half lengthwise and paste it. Great for light foams and small balsa models.

Such loops do not have a large backlash, but as practice has shown, this is not critical and does not at all affect the flight performance of the aircraft model. These loops cannot be used for winter flights, they tan, increase the load on the servo and can simply break!