Do-it-yourself cabinet for a kitchen sink. How to make a cabinet for a kitchen sink with your own hands Do it yourself cabinet for a sink

What is a kitchen sink stand? Logic dictates that this is what is under the table. In our case, this is an object located under the kitchen sink - that is, a cabinet that serves as a support for it. In modern furniture sets, it is almost impossible to meet it without a countertop - this is a temporary option or a solution for giving. But the principle of its manufacture is practically no different from the assembly of a similar pedestal under - the difference in size and nothing more. That is why this article on our website will be useful for everyone who is going to design a kitchen set on their own. The principle is the same, and we will get acquainted with it in this article.

Cabinet under the sink: underframe photo

Underframe under the sink in the kitchen: a few words about the size

The whole charm of the underframe cabinet for the overhead sink lies in the full compliance of its dimensions with the dimensions of the sink itself - this moment greatly facilitates the process of its manufacture. Here we can safely say that we are talking about a standard product and it will be difficult to miss. To be specific and speak in numbers, the depth of such a pedestal is usually 600mm, the width depends on and can be 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000 and even 1200mm, and the standard height is 850mm from the floor to its upper edge.

Underframe for sink photo

Everything is simple, but not very simple - this is not quite a rectangular box, consisting of three or four planks. In most cases, shelves and even drawers are built into the middle of the cabinet, which you will also have to count if you are wondering how to make a do-it-yourself sink stand? The principle of their design is also quite simple, and if you understand it, then you can make any without exception. There are few main nuances that can lead to an error here - only two.

The thickness of the material used - sometimes people forget about it and, as a result, they get not quite what they wanted. Sometimes even such mistakes are critical. It must be remembered that if one board is fastened between two others, then in order to obtain the required size from the outside of the product, the thickness of these two boards taken together must be subtracted from the length of the board inserted between them.
The next point concerns the doors. Every millimeter is important here - you can’t just take, measure a rectangle and cut out two doors according to it. At a minimum, they will not close after installation - you need to take into account the gap between the two halves of the doors and the same gap between the doors of adjacent cabinets. The gap between the door and the sink is also important. In general, the result is the following picture - the resulting actual size of the doors must be reduced in width by 4mm and in height by 2mm. Only in this case the doors will work adequately.

There are other nuances associated with the size of the pieces of furniture. The principle remains the same, especially when it comes to moving parts. Remember that millimeters are very important here, and everything will be fine (no need to redo it). To make it easier to understand the solution to the question of how to make a cabinet under the sink, watch the video on its assembly.

What to make a stand under the sink in the kitchen with your own hands

You can make a sink under the sink from different materials, but in most cases, furniture chipboard is the cheapest material, which, at a relatively low cost, allows you to make a pretty nightstand with your own hands. You can, of course, opt for natural wood, but its processing will require you some specialized equipment. In addition, such cabinets are temporary or summer cottages, so there is no point in making a beautiful wooden thing. Although, who knows - if the dacha is decent, and you are a DIY enthusiast and have the necessary skills and tools, then why not? Let's take a closer look at the materials that can be used to make the underframe.

In principle, you can use more simple ways manufacture of this type of product. A cheap and angry option is just four supports connected to each other around the perimeter by a board. Anything can be used as supports - and metal pipes, And wooden beam, and even just dried tree trunks. It all depends on your requirements for aesthetics, imagination and skillful hands. In fact, such a product can even be woven from a vine.

The principle of manufacturing bedside tables: detailed instructions

Since we have come to the conclusion that chipboard is the most optimal material for the underframe cabinet in terms of price and manufacturing technology, then we will consider it as source material. The technology, as mentioned above, is quite simple and it looks like this.

Now we can safely say that the underframe in the kitchen is ready, and it can be installed in the allotted place. Still, however, it remains to install handles on the doors, but these are already trifles, and you will deal with this issue yourself. In this way, with the right approach to business and competent cutting of furniture chipboard, you can also make a corner stand for a sink - it is important to understand the principle itself, and assembling any cabinet furniture will not seem too difficult for you.

And in conclusion, I’ll add only one thing to the topic - or rather, I’ll remind you that 80% of success in this matter depends on the correct cutting and the quality of the end processing, which, if not properly processed, can pretty much spoil the appearance of the product.

This is how the underframe is made under the sink in the kitchen with your own hands. If this work seems too complicated for you, then part of it can be delegated to special enterprises involved in cutting furniture chipboard - you just have to assemble the cabinet and enjoy the work done.

Headset price: $1270
Square:
Layout:
Furniture color:
Facades: Plastic
Style:
An association: -
Floor: Tile
Apron: Tile
Ceiling: -

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In general, something had to be done about it, and I decided to move the washer to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything turned out “tuttle to tyutelka”: the width of the cabinet that had to be removed was 40 cm, the typewriter - 40 cm. However, in the process of dismantling the cabinet at the junction of the floor and the wall, a heating pipe appeared, which prevented the installation of the washer in a niche, and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done with a typewriter. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design of the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of 6.2 m2 (according to the data sheet), which has not been made for many years, even cosmetic repairs. The kitchen set has been standing like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years old. Window frame old wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. Gas stove relatively new, but not meeting the requirements of the spouse.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave oven and the one mentioned in the prologue remained. washing machine.

It only remains to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the arrangement of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every scrap free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit that I did it.

General provisions

I won’t open America if I notice that before starting, it is necessary to create a project for the premises as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very striking, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Find on the Internet and study articles from the category of "20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen", "", "a", etc. From them it will become clear what standard sizes of furniture exist, what are kitchen facades, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be observed between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its installation dimensions and take it into account in the design. For what it is necessary and so it should be clear.

Design

Let's get back to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is vertical loading underwear. That is, unlike most washers, in my “working” is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. And so the idea was born. corner kitchen, where the sides of the corner are lockers, and the top is the machine. This arrangement is the most rational and gives maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the countertop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks were installed for household appliances. Later, laying of tiles on the floor and walls, and wallpapering took place. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I took up drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide the fact that if you master this specialized program, then in the future, according to your finished dimensions of the lockers, it will itself detail them and even offer the best fastener. My AutoCAD drawing came out much simpler, but, at the same time, quite visual.

Editor's Note: You could also use . Special knowledge is not required for use - take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the possibility of adjusting them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a blank plinth, and besides, there is (albeit limited) access under the cabinets (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for water or sewer leaks). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, just in its original form I thought that it would be two cabinets, but I already left the numbering as it is so as not to change) will open up with the help of gas elevators.

The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the aventos HF system.

The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on ordinary door hinges with a conductor.
An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers, which will be tightened with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to look at. To get to things standing in the depths, it is not necessary to conduct archaeological excavations. Shelves, on the other hand, often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your locker should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good at the end, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. This is exactly why it is necessary to do detailing - the division of the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will explain a few more points, what comes from where and how.

The height of the floor cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38mm (I have 38mm). The height of decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, under which the bottom and back wall are only adjusted (cut out of chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additive and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study and proceed to detailing.

Gas lifts and aventos are mounted on top-row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades by weight. In the construction market or in the store, the seller will advise you about these things, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened / held.

So, I present once again the scheme of the kitchen and the detailing that I got at the output.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

		WHD dimensions	Quantity, pcs	Material	Note

	Cabinet above the refrigerator

					2 holes under the hinges

	Drying cabinet above the sink				2 holes for hinges in the upper facade; glass cutout at the bottom. Get on the Aventos HF. Lacquered glass.



	Washer closet


					2 holes under the hinges

	Wall cabinet				2 holes for hinges in each facade; glass cutout at the bottom. sit down on door hinges and gas lifts. Lacquered glass.



	kitchen ceiling



	Wash cabinet


					2 holes under the hinges
	Oven cabinet




					Drawer front
					Drawer bottom
	Floor cabinets - 3 pcs				Drawers based on tandem boxes Boyard Swimbox SB 01-02 GR .1/400





					bottom of drawers
					Back wall
					Back wall
	table top				* a cutout is made for the window sill
					* a cutout is made for the window sill
Note: 1 - underlining indicates the side of the part that is glued with PVC edge, double underlining means that two sides of the part with this size are glued with the edge. If the edge thickness is 1 mm or more, then it must be taken into account when detailing.
Chipboard Kronospan Plastic Abet Laminati 410 Groove Edging Polcemic 50S 06/22 Egger worktop 38 mm, Lazio blue grey, matt. Lakomat glass (2 pcs)

With this detailing, I went to the office that cuts and pasted chipboard, chose the materials that suited my taste and placed an order. For all the material with the work came out 660 dollars (of which 120 for the countertop).

While my order was being made, I was directly engaged in the purchase of all the necessary accessories, hardware, as well as household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is shown in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

Name		Quantity, pcs	Price for 1 piece, c.u.	Total, c.u.	Note
Gas lifts
Facade handles
Chrome aluminum legs
Door hinges GTV	with closer
	without closer
Hinges for hanging cabinets
hanging profile
Aventas HF
Boyard tandem boxes	L=400, H=84 and 200				With closers

tray insert
Telescopic guide

hob	Kuppersberg FQ4TGW
Oven	Wirpool AKP 461WH
	polyhedron

TOTAL:

As a result, the cost of the headset (without appliances) was $1270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And now, a few days later, they brought me and unloaded a bunch of boards from laminated chipboard in front of the entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of sheets of fiberboard and a 38-mm Egger countertop. I distributed all this goodness among the rooms of the apartment, having previously made the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what closet I have

The most responsible, but at the same time, the most exciting part of the work begins - the assembly of finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

I need the following tools for my work:

corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t go anywhere without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones on the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I assembled a kitchen with them, a wardrobe in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot of other things.

Screwdriver + drill;
Electric jigsaw;
Special drill for confirmations (Euro couplers) and a hexagon bit;
center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
joiner's corner, tape measure and rulers;
A set of hammers and a mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for reaming parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately abandoned this idea in the process of work - confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products should be carried out on a large flat flat surface and the better, the larger it is.

In order not to get confused in the process of working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right sidewall outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that you can understand.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fasteners for gas lifts or adding telescopic rails for drawers) on individual parts, when they are not yet assembled in a box - you must agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a single part than to twist and turn every time there is a box on the table.

The algorithm of work is simple:

marking with a square (ruler) and a pencil;
pinning (possible with an awl or nail) a place for screwing;
screw tightening.

I advise you to pinch, because just to tighten the screw in laminated chipboard fail, it will scroll and slide off, which always causes considerable annoyance.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin to assemble the box itself. Here, the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work on a similar algorithm:

marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
punching;
fixing parts on corner clamps;
drilling with a confirmed drill;
tightening of details by confirmat.

The box is assembled, now it remains to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the box on the door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for fastening the hinges are cut with a milling cutter with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was taken care of by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach mating parts to the facade for the installation of gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

In the inner parts of the box we fasten the hinges for hanging.

At the finish, it remains to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach a handle to the facade.

It turned out such a locker, which we will have located above the refrigerator.

Assembling cabinet No. 2,3 with aventos system

Aventos are different types and they are installed on different cabinets. For a drying cabinet, the most convenient is the aventos of the HF system (these are aventos for two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shaped upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a locker is not easy, but it is not some kind of super task. Aventos always comes with detailed, intelligible instructions, following which you will definitely succeed. In my Kessebohmer aventos there was even a special "drilling map" of holes, which simply had to be attached to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated according to the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We fasten power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time for the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower with a glass cutout. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet on ordinary door hinges, the facades are connected to each other by special overhead Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below, they are shown by the upper red arrow. The lower arrow points to the holes for the hinges, which were mistakenly drilled on the sharag. I didn’t scold them much, but I solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the aventos open, the back of the facade is not visible to the eye.

Reciprocal levels are also attached to the lower facade to snap levers onto them. Well, here's what it looks like assembled. It remains only to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of being assembled

Now we will deal with three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation inside retractable systems (tandemboxes).

Again, I repeat, the whole process is carried out according to the additive schemes that are supplied with the product. First, guides are seated and attached to the sides of the cabinet.

Drawer mounted on rails. A latch is snapped into the upper hole, which is attached to the facade.

A latch attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient, because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer in case of emergency. Plus, tandemboxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the facades vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 pieces) and you need to fit them together.

Fastening fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and fasten the handles. You need to drill the facade from the outside, and to the inside you need to firmly press a piece of some board, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will turn out to be even.

The cabinet with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the assembly of the cabinet by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with an external thread) is attached to the bottom of the cabinet with self-tapping screws, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows you to adjust the height of the legs, for example, to compensate for small uneven floors.

The rest of the floor cabinets (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable, their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing they differ from the rest is that there are no back walls in them (it is necessary to connect water and sewage pipes to the sink, and oven free ventilated space for hot air to circulate).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it's time to start installing the kitchen.

wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook that cling to a metal profile bar screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that the cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and in depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the upper row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang in level.

bottom row

We tightly compose the cabinets of the floor row, adjust them in height (twisting / unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a countertop and from below, through the side rails (cross bars), we fix the countertop with self-tapping screws. You can also resort to the help of corners.

On the countertop we mark the places for embedding the sink and hob, we drill a through hole so that a jigsaw blade can be inserted and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes of the countertop with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply sealant to the front side of the countertop along the edge of the hole. Insert sink and remove rubber spatula squeezed out excess sealant. The same must be done for the hob, but only a heat-resistant sealant is needed.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row is tightly fitted to the window.

Well, here's how it all looks together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not much space on it, so the choice was made in favor of the bar counter, and not the traditional table, the place for which was only at the entrance to the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Especially for the ceiling, four parts were cut out of chipboard (the same from which the cabinets were assembled). Two pieces were made with rounding, which will be the completion of the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling fell on the top row cabinets. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut out, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the tabletop and put them on hidden shelf holders, previously fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended installation height of the bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but it turned out a little higher for me. The height of my rack was adjusted so that a microwave could fit in the free space between it and the floor row. It somehow turned out like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, spice jars and trays will appear above and below the counter.

Well, the whole composition was completed by the 50th chrome-plated pipe with a holder for glasses and a shelf for fruits. Under the rack on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were moving, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making for it the most expensive painting I could.

Well, here's what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my kitchen with my own hands is now ready.

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Transforming your kitchen, you should definitely think about installing cabinets under the sink. It will make the interior more stylish. In addition, she will useful element, because the bedside table can be used to store soap detergents or other things. At the same time, it is absolutely not necessary to purchase such a product in a store and give a solid amount of money for it. The cabinet can be made by hand. We offer you step-by-step instructions that will allow you to avoid mistakes in the course of such responsible work.

Do-it-yourself cabinet for washing.

What is required to make a cabinet?

Before you start making a sink cabinet, you should prepare the following materials and tools:

glass from 6 mm thick;
door hinges;
furniture corners;
self-tapping screws;
putty;
primer;
Double-sided tape.
electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
screwdrivers;
hexagon;
sandpaper;
brush with soft bristles;
putty knife;
pencil;
glass cutter;
drill;
some sand;
ruler and tape measure;
small grinding wheel;
gloves to protect hands while working with glass.

Step 1: Carrying out preparatory work

First of all, you need to decide on the size of the cabinet under the sink. Here you need to be guided by the parameters of the sink itself and the height at which it is installed, as well as the dimensions of the kitchen.

Sink drawing diagram.

On the basis of them, be sure to draw a sketch, and indicate in it what parts the cabinet will consist of. Be sure to indicate in it what dimensions the sink has and at what height it is installed.

Then you need to take the chipboard and mark it with a pencil. Then you can start cutting parts and assembling them. First, the walls and bottom are connected using self-tapping screws. At the same time, it is important that the heads of the fasteners do not protrude, so when screwing them in, they will need to be “recessed” into the chipboard. Then you need to put assembled structure to the wall and make sure that it is level and does not wobble. Since, due to the presence of a siphon at the sink, it will be impossible to make a back wall, furniture corners should be used to increase the rigidity of the cabinet. They need to be fixed under the tabletop with short self-tapping screws.

Step 2: Finishing the Cabinet

After making sure that the created structure is sized and stable, and the sink fits into it perfectly, you can proceed to puttying. It is necessary to make sure that the surface of the cabinet becomes smooth. Therefore, using a spatula, putty should be applied to the chipboard parts and immediately carefully level it. After that, you will need to leave it to dry, and then be sure to sand it with sandpaper.

Furniture made of natural wood or moisture-resistant chipboard and MDF panels are used as curbstones for a corner sink.

Then you will need to prime the entire surface of the cabinet. Make this layer thin. You will need to wait until it is completely dry. After that, you can start painting work. A tinted varnish is perfect here. It must be applied with a brush with natural bristles. Cover them with a curbstone should be in several layers.

Now it remains to wait until the product is completely dry and you can safely install it under the sink. The last thing left to do is create a door. It must be made of glass. Then the finished cabinet, made by hand, will have high aesthetic characteristics.

First you need to mark the glass, and then give it the necessary shape. Next, you need to make the door matte. To do this, sand is taken, poured onto the cut out part and slightly moistened. Then another glass is placed on top and rubbing takes place with it. In the course of such work, it will be necessary to gradually add sand. This will need to be done until the door becomes matte. You can speed up the process if you use a special nozzle for grinding. In this case, you will need to pour sand on the glass part, and then start grouting it at low speeds.

After that, you can mount the finished door and adjust it. This completes the creation of a bedside table with your own hands.

Another way to make a cabinet

Scheme of installation of a washbasin on a curbstone.

Cabinets made of chipboard and glass are not always suitable for sinks, especially if they are created for installation in country houses. Here ideal option will be the manufacture of products from boards and slats. It will have excellent aesthetic properties and harmoniously fit into the interior of the kitchen. To make such a cabinet for washing with your own hands, you will need the following:

screws;
impregnation for wood;
loops;
manual frezer;
hacksaw;
drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
brush with pile;
jigsaw;
boards;
roulette;
marker;
slats.

First you will need to decide on the width and height of the walls of the cabinet. In order to make the correct measurements, use a tape measure. Next, the dimensions of the door are determined, the parts are marked and cut out.

Now you need to lay out the boards for the 1st side wall on a flat surface with your own hands, and then connect them with battens using screws for this. After that, a similar process is performed with the 2nd side wall. Next, a door is assembled, which is also mounted using rails and screws. For it, you will need to additionally make a wooden handle. It is fastened with screws from the outside, after which all the parts are assembled into a single structure.

In order for a hand-made cabinet to be comfortable, several shelves should be provided in it. They can be made wide. You can install them on special spacers, which are cut out of wood, and then fixed to the inner walls of the cabinet with screws.

In order for the product under the sink to have an attractive appearance and last for a long time, it must be painted. But before that, it will need to be treated with a special impregnation. After you can cover it with varnish. Apply it in several layers. Let the design dry, then it can be used for its intended purpose.

When making a cabinet for washing with your own hands, you can not do without the following useful recommendations:

In the manufacture of such a product, you can use not only boards or chipboard, you can also take fiberboard or thick plywood. And if you decide to make a cabinet under the washbasin in the bathroom, it is better to use chipboard. Such construction material covered with a special film, so when elevated level humidity, it will not deform. So, the cabinet will stand for many years. In addition, it does not need to be painted with paint or varnish, which will reduce the time for manufacturing.
For fastening parts, you can use not only screws and self-tapping screws, but also nails. But it is better to take those that are made of galvanized steel.
In order for the cabinet to have clear proportions, use the building level when creating it.
You can cover the finished product not only with varnish, but also with paint. But do not choose too bright, it is better to give preference to calm colors. However, for applying paintwork material You can use not only a brush, but also a spray gun. With it, it will be possible to carry out such work much faster, this will in no way affect the quality of the finished coating, it will be on top.

Based on such step by step instructions you can make a cabinet under the sink with your own hands. Choose for yourself the most suitable option and start making the product, but first prepare everything necessary tools and materials so as not to be distracted by this in the process. Using the above recommendations, you can create a high-quality and aesthetic cabinet that will certainly transform the interior of your kitchen.

The corner layout of the headset is considered one of the best and optimal - it looks great in both large and small kitchens. There is only one question left: which corner cabinet to choose for the sink, because the most logical and comfortable spot for her, with such a layout - indeed, in the corner.

Functionality

The modern design trend is a combination of beauty and functionality. It is these requirements that the corner cabinet with meets. The L-shaped layout makes the space more comfortable and streamlined even in a small, custom or shared kitchen.

We list the main positive features of the corner cabinet with a sink:

it is easy to carry out and hide the necessary communications there, for example, the plumbing to the sink, filters, heaters. In addition, the space can serve as a great place to store household chemicals or trash can;
such a solution is the most compact, but at the same time roomy - this is very important in, for example, in Khrushchev;
the corner section visually unites the space;
it just looks beautiful.

But there are also negative sides. For example, for inexpensive kitchen sets with a corner sink, the countertop is made of chipboard, which means that the joints in the corner will be in danger:

Chipboard is a very weak material that is constantly looking for a reason to swell;
spray from the sink will fly anyway.

Therefore, the joints will have to be additionally protected, for example, with sealant or aluminum strips. If the countertop is cast, for example, from stone or acrylic, then there will be no such problem.

The second disadvantage is that only a small container for garbage can be “hidden” in such a cabinet. But, perhaps, it is for the better - the garbage will be taken out more often, which means that there is less likelihood of an unpleasant odor.

The third negative point is that the reliability of corner structures is much lower than conventional ones. This is due to the non-standard shape of the cabinets. Perhaps you should think about strengthening the sidewalls.

The fourth disadvantage is the inconvenience of using the sink, because it is located too far away. This disadvantage is easy to avoid: the main thing is to monitor the height and depth of the countertop.

And the last negative point is the overpriced cost compared to conventional cabinets, so most craftsmen assemble such cabinets with their own hands.

Construction types

There are three types of corner cabinets according to the type of construction:

direct attached;
L-shaped;
trapezoidal.

Each has its own characteristics, which we will now reveal.

Straight pedestal

An ordinary floor cabinet that has one muted door - a raised panel. This option is the most budgetary, and therefore the most common. But it is not very convenient to use it - there is a lot of free space, but it is difficult to reach it.

The standard dimensions of such a sink cabinet are 100 by 60 cm along the countertop. At the same time, the module itself will be slightly smaller - 95 by 55 cm. This is due to the fact that the tabletop should hang slightly in front, on the side, and even sometimes behind.

With this layout, the size of the facade is 71.6 by 39.6 cm. Do not forget about the internal component - on the inner side of the cabinet they make a drink for the sink, or rather, its communications.

In this case, the dimensions are individual, but most often this hole is about 25 by 15 cm. If the pipes require over size holes, then it is better to make the side side not solid, but to assemble it from planks.

L-shaped pedestal (acute angle)

Here, the cabinet is equipped with a special transforming door, thanks to which it is very convenient to use the internal space. In addition, in terms of measurement, this is the most flexible option.

In this case, one or two back sides of the cabinet are left hollow - it depends on the number of connections and wiring. The dimensions of a standard cabinet are 92 by 92 cm. In addition, two doors with sides of 71.6 by 39.6 cm are required.

Such modules are easy to customize by simply cutting one of the sides. At the same time, it is worth remembering that a wide door is always hung to the sidewall, and already a light one - to it (the first door). If you do otherwise, the facade will sag over time.

Trapezoidal Cabinet (Slanted Corner)

The largest and bulkiest version of the corner kitchen table under the sink It is advisable not to install it in small rooms, as it takes up too much usable space. For this reason, they are appropriate only in spacious rooms with a classic design. On modern kitchens the options listed above are better.

If the trapezoid cabinet seems too rough and large, then you can choose the concave design of the sash and countertop, but this will not solve the problem of bulkiness. It is in this version that the problem of a small door and a huge free space inside is very acute. The dimensions of the module are 90 by 90 cm, while the door is 71.6 by 47 cm.

Another disadvantage of such a cabinet is that an ordinary 60 cm tabletop does not cover the entire surface, so it has to be joined, and this threatens to get water from the sink into the seams and swell the material. Such a joint is performed either at the level of the sink, or with the help of a small supporting superstructure.

Of course, if you use another material, such as artificial stone or plastic, then this problem can be avoided. But the cost will be completely different. Manufacturers are trying to solve this problem by releasing special pentagonal countertops, but so far their choice is very limited.

Size calculation

There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a vanity unit, including:

features of the kitchen - its area and layout;
sink features - shape, size and even installation method;
what will be stored inside, and how often it is necessary to climb there.

The standard sizes for each type of cabinet were described above, but individually you can create anything you want. Today, designers are trying to deviate from the standards and create individual solutions, as they are the most comfortable and optimized.

For example, for a long time, 85 cm were considered the standard height of the tabletop, and the adjustment was a maximum of a couple of centimeters in order to adjust the headset to uneven floors.

Now you can adjust the height by 10 cm or even more, so that your stay in the kitchen is as comfortable as possible. There is even a small but visual drawing that tells what height kitchen set with a sink in the corner for what height is suitable.

The standard door width (not a transformer) of a corner cabinet is 40 cm. You can make it 30 cm, but this will significantly reduce access to space and stored products. Is it worth it?

Of course, you can not pick up a mortise sink larger than the countertop. You have to keep track of both the length and the depth of the product. Most kitchen sinks are designed to sink into a 60 cm deep countertop, with the sink itself taking up only 48–50 cm of this space, as gaps must be provided.

Storage system

It is very important to think over storage in a corner cabinet, because it is not always possible to reach the most hidden corners, and you really want to put as much as possible there. For this, manufacturers are developing more and more interesting ideas, for example:

swivel baskets and carousels- suitable for storing small items, as well as large dishes, as functional as possible;
drawers- in corner cabinets they are U-shaped, so as not to damage communications. Suitable for storing small items and textiles;
various shelves and holders- conveniently divide the space into several zones. For example, household chemicals - separately, and - separately.

But at the same time, do not forget that it is necessary to place the wiring to the sink, possibly the communication of the filter and the chopper. Even the location of the bin is worth considering.

What can be stored under the sink besides the trash can?

Various items like potatoes, pet food, or large pots with baking sheets.
If, then the place under the sink will be an excellent warehouse for powders, air conditioners and other household chemicals. In this case, you can take a closer look at IKEA storage systems - they allow you to fold a large number of things as compactly as possible.
Equipment - vacuum cleaner, iron.
You can hide more complex things - a waste chopper, filters, a water heater. So such systems will be optimized as much as possible, and also easily accessible for replacement or repair.

If you want to simplify your life as much as possible, you can think about. Mesh baskets that can be rolled out by pulling the handle are incredibly popular. The reason is simple - it is very convenient, because you no longer have to climb inside the closet, dropping all the other things.

The space under the sink can be left free or you can build appliances there. For example, a small or washing machine. The first option is not entirely practical, since it will be inconvenient to rinse the dishes and then immediately put them in the machine, but if this option can be considered.

Sink selection

It is worth starting with the installation option.

invoice	The simplest, but at the same time rare option is for the corner location. Such a sink takes up all the space above the cabinet, so the countertop is not required.
mortise	The most popular option. A hole is cut into the countertop into which the sink is inserted. It is held by the sides that lie on the countertop, as well as with the help of special fasteners. A greater variety of such sinks allows you to choose the perfect model for any interior.
Integrated	As such, there is no sink, since it is a recess in the countertop. Rare, but very effective option.
Underbench	Most difficult option- the sink is installed under the countertop. Installation is so complicated that a professional is needed, since everything needs to be calculated literally to the millimeter. In addition, such a sink is expensive.

After choosing the type of sink installation, it is better to decide on its shape. Three options:

round - standard version with a diameter of 50 or 60 centimeters. Roomy, comfortable, no need to clean the corners;
straight (rectangular or square)- the standard size of corner sinks is 60 by 80 cm, but there are others. Spacious, useful for a large family;
non-standard shape- are often used as corner sinks, as the non-standard shape allows optimal use of space.

It is worth thinking about equipping the kitchen sink. A classic is the sink, which is a single thicket.

If space permits, then you can also choose a multi-section product - with two or even three bowls. This is very practical solution, because while dishes are being washed in one bowl, something can be defrosted or soaked in the other.

For a similar purpose, wings will fit - side corrugated surfaces made of the same material as the sink. Most often, they are also used to defrost food or dry dishes.

Last but not least, the choice will be the sink material. There are many, but the most commonly used are:

- budget but very practical material, which is not afraid of household chemicals, temperature changes. But there is also a drawback - the noise when the water falls.
- a spectacular option that does not create noise, while being as practical as stainless steel.

You can find sinks made of natural stone, ceramics, porcelain and even wood, but all these options are expensive and not at all practical.

The nuances of choosing a cabinet

If you still have doubts about what to choose, you should figure out what is expected from the furniture:

if you need a lot of storage space - this is for trapezoid cabinets;
doors can be made hinged and even reclining;
if you need free access to the far corners, then this is definitely not about a single door;
if you need to hide the water heater in the cabinet, then small swivel shelves are suitable for storage;
if there is a trash can, then you should choose a model with a lid or a retractable one;
if there are no shelves, then it is better to buy baskets or look at drawers;
the shape of the sink and cabinet as a whole should be combined with the kitchen.

DIY manufacturing

Craft corner cupboard no more difficult than usual. Even the materials used are the same:

laminated boards are suitable for the body. At the same time, do not forget about the special PVC edge, which will cover all the ends - this will save the corner module from moisture and further swelling;
as a door, you can take the same chipboard, MDF, or take a closer look at the array and acrylic;
tabletop can be made of various materials- Chipboard with film or veneer, artificial stone or postforming. A natural stone may be too heavy for such a foundation;
mortise sinks are most often installed in the corner. They can be made of artificial stone or stainless steel.

Consider the characteristics of some materials.

chipboard	Wood waste, glue and plastic film are used to make laminated chipboard. Such material is not always environmentally friendly, so most often its use in the kitchen is abandoned in favor of MDF.
MDF	This material is already more expensive, but also better. Wood shavings are used, which are pressed under vacuum. The slab can again be covered with plastic, postforming, veneer or conventional paint.
array	The most environmentally friendly material. But practicality is highly dependent on the quality of the cut, processing, drying and fitting. It is treated with varnish in order to protect against changes in humidity and temperature.
Stone	Both natural and artificial stone are considered durable material, which is not afraid of changes in temperature, humidity and even mechanical stress. But the artificial analogue has two advantages - easier care and light weight. In any case, these are not budget options.

Then you need to decide on the following characteristics:

storage system and overall dimensions;
type of sink;
the number of shelves required and the mechanism for closing the door.

It is better to take care of this before assembly, since in this case it is possible to paste over everything with an edge, avoiding swelling of the material. If there is no edge left, then the ends can be treated with silicone or sealant. Do the same with the cutout for the sink.

To assemble a corner cabinet, it is better to use euro screws, or confirmations. Self-tapping screw sizes:

4x20 - for legs;
3.5x16 - for furniture hinges.

Making a corner cabinet for washing yourself is not so difficult, but this process requires attention and concentration.

Do-it-yourself installation

It doesn’t matter if the cabinet is handmade or brought from the store, it’s not difficult to assemble it yourself. Especially if it is a purchase from a store - in this case, the kit must contain detailed assembly instructions. If it was not there, then the principle of action is always the same:

Installing a corner sink is no different from a regular one. The simplest option is an overhead model, it is put on a cabinet with a difficult cap on the handle. The most difficult option is under-the-table - it is better to immediately entrust it to a professional.

The integrated model does not require installation, as it is combined with the countertop. A mortise sink can be installed with your own hands. For this you need:

make markings on the countertop under the sink - usually for this a special stencil is placed in the sink set;
a hole is cut out according to the marking;
the ends are lubricated with sealant;
the sink is inserted into the hole;
fasteners are installed (if any);
, there is a connection to the sewer;
the junction of the sidewalls of the sink and countertop can also be smeared with sealant.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this - even a beginner can handle it on their own.

Conclusion

A corner cabinet is an excellent choice not only for a small kitchen, but also for a large space that you want to make as functional as possible. It should be understood that the choice of cabinet depends on the tasks that it will perform, as well as on the sink that will be built in. If you approach the choice from all sides, then the result will be new item furniture that fits perfectly into the interior.

Thanks to the diversity design solutions modern sanitary ware, the cabinet under the sink is not a mandatory piece of kitchen or bathroom interior. However, it is she who allows you to hide communications that can significantly spoil the design of the room.

Several options for the development of events are available to the consumer: buy a finished product at the nearest furniture store, order the manufacture of a frame from professionals according to your own sketch (having spent time and paying a considerable amount for execution) or make a bedside table under the sink with your own hands.

For those who save their money and prefer the exclusive to serial products, we have prepared detailed instructions O self-manufacturing this piece of furniture.

Design choice

The first thing the master needs to do is to choose the type of frame. The choice of the type of pedestal depends on its location, the type of sink (consignment note, mortise) and its shape, as well as the material from which it is made. For independent implementation, you can take as a basis one of the three main design options: floor, suspended, corner. Next, we consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each solution.

Floor cabinets

The easiest to make and functional options for the kitchen, which perform several tasks at once:

Hide pipes from prying eyes
May be continued as a tabletop
Acts as a sink stand
Can be used as a place to install a miniature washing machine, placement of a trash can, a place for storing household chemicals or other small things necessary in everyday life.

Suspended structures

Creating a hanging bedside table is rightfully considered the best option to save space in bathrooms.

The main advantage of this type of pedestals is visual lightness and the presence of free space on the floor, which is necessary when laying communications in the box.

Creating a hanging bedside table under the sink in the bathroom with your own hands is quite simple, especially since it does not require a large amount of materials, although it requires a competent approach to implementation installation work and subsequent use of the product.

Corner cabinets

Corner pedestals can have both floor and hanging solutions. As a rule, the corners in the rooms are extremely weakly involved, so corner structures are considered an excellent option for installation in small kitchens, especially if it is planned to mount the frame under the countertop of the kitchen set.

For the most part, the corner design forms a lot of free space under the sink, which a zealous hostess can always use to store things needed in everyday life.

Washbasin type

Having chosen the location of the product, one should not think that the choice of the type of construction has already been completed. Before you make a bedside table under the sink with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the type of sink, which (as noted above) can have an overhead or mortise mounting method.

Cabinets with an overhead sink are made as simple as possible, since the surface of the sink is mounted on top of the frame. If it is planned to use a sink with a mortise fastening method, then a hole should be provided in the tabletop of the cabinet, corresponding to the size and shape of the bowl.

Structural elements

Having decided on the type of cabinet and its design features we proceed to the next stage - creating a sketch with the detailing of all elements. The underframe under the sink consists of:

frame,
side walls,
doors,
internal filling,
accessories.

The frame can be made of a wooden beam with a side section of 40x40 mm. In fairness, it should be noted that you can make a nightstand under the sink in the kitchen with your own hands without a carrier wooden frame, connecting all the elements to each other with the help of euro screws (confirmations).

Next, consider the frameless scheme, as the simplest for independent implementation.

Important! The following are the standard dimensions of the elements of the floor underframe made of laminated chipboard 16 mm thick for an overhead metal sink 500x500 mm. Details are for illustration purposes only. You can change the dimensions of elements based on own needs and washing options.

Side walls - 2 pcs. Standard size: 820x450 mm
Spacers - 4 pcs. Size: 468x100 mm
Door - 1 pc. Size: 620x500 mm
Internal shelves - 2 pcs. Size: 468x450 mm

You should draw a sketch and proceed to the next step self-creation underframes under the sink - the choice of material.

Materials and tools

When choosing a material, it should be borne in mind that the cabinet under the sink will be regularly exposed to moisture. Longevity depends on how competently you approach the choice. appearance the whole structure. For the underframe, you can use the following materials:

- Chipboard is the most budget option.

Advantages: relatively low cost, high decorative effect, huge selection color solutions, ease of processing and assembly design.

Disadvantages: LDSP is afraid of moisture. When water enters unprotected areas, the material swells and loses its strength characteristics.

- MDF - pressed boards wood fibers. Advantages: moisture resistance, ease of processing, relatively low cost. Disadvantage: low decorative effect.

Tip: To improve the appearance of the product, use laminated (in the factory) MDF boards.

Natural wood. Advantages and disadvantages can be listed in four words: beautiful, soundly, expensive, massive. In this regard, wooden underframes are the least common among our compatriots as a frame for a sink.
Plastic. An excellent material with a number of outstanding advantages: water resistance, strength, decorativeness, practicality. However, most plastics do not tolerate contact with aggressive detergents.
Glass. Do-it-yourself glass bedside table for a ceramic sink is quite difficult, especially at home. To work, you will need the skills of cutting and processing thick glass, a special tool and fasteners for drilling material. In some cases it is necessary to use hydrofluoric acid to bond glass surfaces.

An alternative option is a combination of materials: the body is made of MDF or chipboard, the door and countertop are frosted glass. Such a cabinet will become a decoration of the room and a source of your pride.
Despite a lot of shortcomings, most home craftsmen use chipboard as the main material for self assembly sink pedestals.

For cutting chipboard boards you will need:

- Manual (high-speed) circular saw. For a clean cut, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a disk with victorious soldering.

An electric jigsaw is not suitable for these works, since it is almost impossible for them to make an even cut without chipping off the surface of the laminated coating.

Drill with a set of drill bits for wood. To tie the frame with confirmations, you need to stock up special drill the desired diameter.
In addition, you will need: a tape measure, a pencil, a joiner's corner, confirmations directly, a PVC edge (1 mm thick) and an iron for pasting the ends of blanks, furniture canopies and fittings.

Self-creation of cabinets under the sink

The process of assembling a simple bedside table begins with cutting chipboard boards. To do this, transfer all the elements of the frame to the material. Use a carpenter's corner to get the first right angle. Next, start from it, and not from the corner of the chipboard plate, carry out the process of cutting the plate into blanks.

Important! When marking, be sure to take into account the thickness of the cut, which can be determined empirically or by measuring the distance between the teeth of the saw blade.

Second phase

Pasting the ends of PVC blanks with an edge with an adhesive layer. To do this, go over the cut surface with an emery bar (a wooden bar with a flat surface on which a strip of sandpaper is glued), clean it of dust.

Attach the edge to the end of the workpiece and walk along the surface with a heated iron, then remove excess material with a sharp knife.

Third stage

Assembling the body of the bedside table (connecting the sidewalls with the spacer bars). Drill holes with a confirmatory drill at the joints of the workpieces. Attention! Consider the thickness of the chipboard. Make holes, stepping back from the edge of the workpiece 8 mm, then tighten the workpieces with confirmations using a hex bit.

Fourth stage

Installation of internal filling. For better reliability and fixation of the entire structure, it is also better to pull the shelves with the sidewalls with the help of confirmations.

Stage five

Installation of a sink on a curbstone. If the sink is overhead, then use the standard mounts that come with the kit, or plastic corners for fixing the sink. If the sink is recessed, then prepare a hole in the countertop that repeats the shape of the washbasin. You can’t do without a jigsaw here, since you won’t be able to make a curved cut with a circular saw.

Tip: To minimize chipping of the laminated coating when sawing with a jigsaw, it is recommended to stick paper tape (masking tape) on the cut line. Cut to carry out "without buildup." The files T101B without a back tooth, Bosch-123X, Bosch T 101 AIF (with a tooth without wiring), Wilpu Laminator performed well.

Stage six

Preparing doors and fittings. On the door, “cups” should be made - a sample for the place where the hinges are attached. This is done with a drill with a loop cutter installed, with a diameter of 35 mm.

Further, furniture hinges are installed in the prepared “cups”, after which the door is fixed on the sidewall. The final touch is the installation of a handle, magnets, and other accessories. Before installing the sink on the underframe, it is better not to hang the door. It may interfere with the installation of the structure in a regular place.

For a more complete understanding of the underframe assembly process, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video:

As a conclusion

In this publication, we examined in as much detail as possible all the stages of creating a cabinet for a sink with our own hands, found out what material to choose and what tool to use. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this. And you can do it using our recommendations.