Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered: the choice of material and the procedure for work. How to insulate the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered? Insulation of a broken attic from the inside

As we all know for certain, state tariffs are not getting cheaper, so many owners of country cottages are thinking about keeping warm. Any builder will tell you that a house, at its core, loses heat through the roof. In a number of buildings there is attic floor which can be very cold. Therefore, attic insulation is a very important task that requires a careful and thoughtful approach to its solution. If you treat this with disdain, you can earn a miscalculation, which in a little time will cost you dearly - much more than the money saved on the attic.

You can personally insulate the attic from the inside of the roof, but it will be better if professionals put the outer layers of insulation on you. Therefore, our material will conduct an educational program in heaters and tell you how to insulate the attic with your own hands, while saving a considerable amount of money that can be spent on much more interesting acquisitions for your country house.

If we talk about do-it-yourself attic insulation in general, in all cases, hydro- and vapor barrier material must be laid without fail. This is the basis, without which further work is meaningless. Then, as a rule, a crate is arranged, into which, in fact, a heater is mounted. You can read about how to maintain a comfortable temperature on the walls and floors in the house, using fiberboard and drywall, in the conclusion of our material.

Of course, all houses and roofs are different from each other - it is rare to find several absolutely similar ones. But in all cases of arranging insulation, you will need to competently “bypass” all the irregularities and “pitfalls” of construction: elements of rafters, beams and the construction of the crate. Therefore, you will undoubtedly have to sweat a lot and think carefully about the plan of action. It is for this reason that we advise you to think about the issue of insulation even at the time of building a house.

All private houses, as a rule, have a gable, broken or trapezoidal shape, allowing ergonomic use of the attic space. For example, with gable roofs, you can build additional ones by filling out insulation material their cavities. It is logical to carry out global warming measures only if you intend to live in a future attic. In the option when this floor is planned to be made non-residential, like an attic, it will only be enough to insulate the floors - this will be quite enough to insulate the non-residential premises, unless, of course, no one will stay there overnight.

Types of heaters

When choosing a heater for the attic, you will need to answer two questions: what design does the roof of your house have and in what climate zone is the building itself located? Depending on this, it will be possible to install certain insulation materials. What insulation for the attic to choose? How not to make a mistake in buying? This is not to say that the choice is so great that the eyes run wide, but to consider the choice in accordance with desired characteristics still needed. As a rule, according to the standard, attic rooms are insulated:

· Styrofoam;

Styrofoam;

Mineral wool or glass wool;

· Ecowool;

· Polyurethane foam.

All these heaters have different properties and characteristics that affect the future preservation of heat in the house. Depending on what you need, you will have to make a choice of insulation that is suitable in your house for a particular room.

For example, you can insulate the attic roof from the inside with foam. But this is not a very expensive method, but it does not enjoy a good reputation among builders at all. The fact is that the foam does not pass moisture well, and the liquid will begin to accumulate on the insulation, and this does not make this material and the effect of the insulation durable. In addition, the peculiarity of the foam is its susceptibility to various deformations - another minus in the piggy bank of the foam. So, when the rafters begin to sit in the building, all kinds of cracks will appear in the insulation layers through which cold air will enter the house. Yes, and rodents clearly like the insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam: mice are very willing to “try by mouth” this material. In general, among the only plus - cheapness - there are a lot of minuses.

If we talk about expanded polystyrene, it is a bit like the insulation described above, but differs in the installation technique. Usually expanded polystyrene is placed under the rafters, so cracks do not form on the tiles. The undoubted advantage of this type of insulation lies in its similarity with, the details of which are attached to each other in “grooves”. This method of joining the parts of the insulation makes it possible to create an even canvas, without gaps. This, of course, prolongs its life in comparison with the foam, although not for long.

A number of builders tend to choose attic insulation from the inside with mineral wool when it comes to how to properly insulate an attic. What are the advantages of this material? It is non-flammable, perfectly stores heat, liquid does not accumulate in mineral wool, and its strength characteristics deserve all praise. Builders will very quickly lay this material, hiding its canvases in a special crate. Much more pluses, with easier installation. So attic insulation with mineral wool is not the worst way to maintain a great microclimate in the house.

Glass wool is somewhat similar to mineral wool in terms of installation method, but the first one has a number of differences:

Since glass wool contains very long fibers, it surpasses mineral wool in strength characteristics. In addition, glass wool is better, perfectly retains heat and has excellent elasticity.

Glass wool is practically non-hydrophobic.

In some cases, builders, equipping the attic insulation, resort to a little trick: they mount several types of materials at once. For example, the rafter voids are filled with glass wool, and the roof itself is laid polystyrene boards. This allows you to save money and maintain the quality of insulation.

The most expensive way to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands is to equip heat-insulating layers of ecowool. How does this happen? Builders crush cotton wool, and blow it into the rafter voids with a hose. Since ecowool contains paper, the material has excellent environmental performance: almost the same as that of a real tree. And since borax, which has antiseptic properties, is included in the composition of ecowool, fungi and mold do not begin to multiply in the insulation - one of the biggest problems country houses. The thermal insulation characteristics of this material are reminiscent of glass wool in their qualities: a comfortable temperature is perfectly maintained in the house. It is also important that for the entire period of use of the building, you will not need to replace the ecowool, because the latter does not settle or shrink, as happens with cheaper heaters.

In the case of polyurethane foam, as a heater, everything is “nowhere better”. This material is simply sprayed and, as you already understood, fasteners are not involved in the process, so the work does not take much time. Polyurethane foam perfectly fills all the cracks, and its service life is calculated in tens of years. So it's safe to say that it's the best insulation for the attic.

We hope that after such a detailed briefing you are no longer tormented by the question: “how to insulate the roof of the attic” and you have understood for yourself the advantages and disadvantages of all types of materials used for this type of work. The choice, as before, is yours - the type of insulation, its pros and cons relative to each other.

How to insulate the attic with mineral wool

How to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands? We will do this with the help of mineral wool, having calculated the required amount of material before installation.

So, prepare the necessary tools and do not forget to stock up on gloves, overalls and a mask, because the mineral wool will be dusty.

You will enjoy:

Mineral wool;

Hammer (for leveling sheets);

· Mallet, chisel and chisel;

· Counter rails made of wood, nails and self-tapping screws;

An ax and a sherhebel;

Membrane, vapor barrier.

Since mineral wool is usually laid between the rafters, think about arranging waterproofing materials in advance. To do this, you can use a waterproofing film, putting it starting from the bottom of the roof. Layers of material should overlap each other, and they should be fastened with adhesive tape. Lay the film with a margin against the walls, cutting off all the extra sections that will remain after the completion of the work.

Next, you should nail the counter rails to the truss elements. Place mineral wool between the rails so that it fits snugly against the rafters and does not form gaps. As you understand, in the process of laying a heater with your own hands there is nothing complicated, you just have to want to! We hope that now it has become clear to you how to insulate the attic for winter residence.

Insulation of the attic with foam

If you have already covered the roof, or it is still open, it will be possible to insulate the attic with foam. To do this, as in the case of mineral wool, first of all put a waterproofing film - it very effectively allows you to protect the place of work from unnecessary moisture. Well, if you use Isospan, which has a membrane structure that allows the material to “breathe”.

Lay layers of waterproofing on the rafters, but do not stretch the film. You can even mount the material in such a way that it sags a little. Unwind Izospan across the rafters, along the entire length of the roof. Keep track of which side you lay the material: its water-repellent and vapor-repellent layer must be on the outside.

Next, lay the film, overlapping it ten centimeters, and gluing the seams with adhesive tape. Leave a void between the waterproofing and the crate by nailing small beam, and putting a crate on it, followed by roofing.

Lay the foam in the rafter voids, making sure that the material does not form gaps. Styrofoam can be “fitted to size” using construction knife. It is better to attach the insulation with glue or special rails - the latter can even more accurately fix the insulation elements.

Make sure that in the process of warming the attic with your own hands, you do not form gaps in which cold bridges may appear. If the “pie” will change dramatically temperature regime, condensation will begin to appear on the insulation and the roof will begin to rot. Therefore, it is good if you put the insulation in two layers “in a row”, as if overlapping the previous seams with sheets. Such a two-layer “pie” should be fastened with glue. This will eliminate possible gaps and the risk of rotting will be minimal.

By the way, both in the case of installing mineral wool, and in the option of installing foam plastic, soundproofing materials with a fibrous structure can be placed on the insulation. Next, install a vapor barrier film on the “pie” (in the same way, overlapping and gluing with tape), attaching the material to the rafters with a construction stapler.

Sheathing is usually attached to a profile of wooden bars. This is done for reasons of ensuring the ventilation properties of the roof (between the vapor barrier layer and the sheathing). It is good if for this you use environmentally friendly materials that can “breathe”, because condensation will not form on them, which subsequently leads to decay and rapid decomposition of materials.

When arranging foam on the roof, do not forget to take care of and adjustable. If you forget about these details, during the rainy season, the roof can become waterlogged. If that happens, your hard work will almost certainly go down the drain. We hope that you have concluded that a non-professional can cope with these works, and you will no longer rack your brains thinking about the question: “How to insulate the attic from the inside”?

Rooftop insulation

What to do with the insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered? In this option, you should think about the interior lining of the floor. You will also be able to produce this species do-it-yourself work. This can be done using drywall or fiberboard. Undoubtedly, if you have never done such work before, it is better to study the video materials in advance: then you will clearly understand for yourself what and how to do. You should not rely on "maybe" and hope that you will succeed the first time without the help of professionals.

Everyone knows that drywall is attached to metal profiles which should be chosen with the utmost care. Place such guides at a distance of 50 cm from each other, using a level. Drywall can be attached to profiles using self-tapping screws. But do not forget to put a vapor barrier film under the metal profile structure. And when the drywall and film are installed, finish or paint the drywall. Undoubtedly, the front of work in this version of insulation will be quite large. But if you “know the question” in advance, then, undoubtedly, you will cope with the task in a fairly short time.

In the second version of attic insulation with a “finished” roof, you can use fiberboard. This material is easier to install than drywall. In addition, fiberboard is inexpensive, lightweight and excellently insulates sounds. If we talk about finishing, both wallpaper and a number of other materials fit perfectly on fiberboard sheets.
Just cut the fiberboard with a knife and attach it to the crate using dowels or self-tapping screws. The undoubted advantage of fiberboard is the fact that you alone can cope with the entire front of work on the insulation of an attic with a covered roof.

Well, when you insulate the walls on the floor, do not forget to take care of the floors: lay the roofing material, or substrate, in two layers, and cover the fiberboard structure. Only after that, it will be possible to put a topcoat on the insulated “pie”.

Summing up our story about the insulation of the attic floor, we note that this is not an extremely difficult task. Such work will be simple and easy to do if you carefully read the article, and took note of all our guidelines. Do not be afraid to change something in your environment for the better, and let the attic from cold and dank, thanks to your efforts, turn into a cozy, inviting home floor.

Attic insulation. Video

Attics are most often equipped to provide additional living space. At the same time, it is not necessary to live in the attic - all work on the insulation of the upper room is carried out with the expectation of high-quality thermal insulation of the house in order to save energy. In addition, being in a warm attic is much more comfortable than in an uninsulated room.

Peculiarities

A residential attic is no longer a rare occurrence in the construction of a private house on two floors. More and more attention is paid to the functional qualities of each centimeter of the attic area. Therefore, it is important to carry out repairs or design a house in such a way that, if necessary, it is possible to use separate rooms, make them functional and more suitable for living. In order to feel warm and cozy under the roof at any time of the year, insulation work is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the attic. For example, special insulation matters when the roof is already covered.

There are certain standards for carrying out such work from the inside in the attic under the finished roof. It is worth considering that the attic as such is not equivalent to the attic. The attic always has a characteristic slope, and the highest point of height is usually at a level of 2.5 m. For thermal insulation of such a room, you can use different materials. The most common are mineral wool and polystyrene. When carrying out work on the insulation of the attic, it is necessary to take into account what the room will be according to appearance, whether it will lose "extra" meters.

For high-quality insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered, the right technology is important. So, when insulating walls and ceilings, one or another method of performing work is used. For example, to insulate the roof of the attic, a multilayer structure is used (for example, in 5 layers of a screed with foam glue).

All work on interior decoration attic for the purpose of insulation is carried out in five stages.

• The roof is insulated, the truss system is processed. Rafter from wooden beam can be seen under the roof of houses built using old construction technologies. Usually the roof of such houses is covered with tiles or slate. The materials have very high thermal conductivity. In such cases, it is said that the roof is simply protected from wind and external weather influences.

• Waterproofing quality- another important criterion for ensuring the reliability of the roof structure as a whole. Waterproofing is simply necessary in the attic room. For this purpose, membrane films are usually used, which can pass steam, but do not pass moisture. In old houses, you can often see a simple roofing material with similar properties instead of a special film. The main feature of insulating materials is optimal protection roofs at the joints, preventing moisture from entering the heat-insulating material. Waterproofing coatings today are characterized by vapor conductivity.
• Warming materials. Of the modern means, those that are characterized by low thermal conductivity are used. Insulation parameters between 0.03-0.04 Vi/mk are comparable in quality and durability to reinforced foam. Mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, penoizol) are also actively used to insulate the attic from the inside. In terms of efficiency, penoplex is rated higher than others, but it costs more. The selected materials must meet the main requirements - to provide heat transfer in winter, to protect against overheating in summer.

• Vapor barrier materials. Usually we are talking about a membrane film that will help maintain the original properties of the insulation. The material should not provoke the formation of condensate, which is a disaster for thermal insulation materials.
• decorative properties. The insulated attic must meet the requirements of the design of the room, comply with the general concept design decoration Houses. Therefore, the facing is given so much attention. As decorative finishes drywall, OSB boards or other types of materials are often used that can be laid on the ceiling, on the walls, and on the floor of the attic.

Roof structures

The reliability of the house is determined, among other things, by the roof structure. The roof can be gable, broken, differ in slope. Due design features attic it is possible to get additional usable area. To do this, it is necessary to correctly manage the attic space of the house, especially for low-rise buildings. An important role in this case is given to the characteristics of the roof. Traditionally, pentagonal gable structures with a slope of various sizes were suitable for organizing an attic room. A convex fracture on such roofs was formed due to the difference in slopes.

Many schemes country houses correspond to the definitions of a "broken" roof. Today, the configuration of such mansard roofs has undergone many modifications. Now it is not only a pentagon and not only a gable roof. But their main technological features are saved.

Externally, the shape of the attic structure can be assessed by several parameters.

By slope and roof configuration:

• a triangular roof with a multi-level slope of the lower and upper parts in the form of a gable structure without kinks;
• pentagonal variations on the theme of the roof with slopes at convex corners (two joined parts clearly appear in the design).

Mansard roofs have a multi-tiered truss system. In the lower tier there is a usable area 2-2.5 m high (the scheme is being prepared in advance). The height parameters are indicated for ease of movement inside. The second tier is the shape of the top of the roof, which can have an arbitrary height. Although here you can experiment with the height to get the optimally comfortable roof shape. In this aspect, it is more advantageous to use a pentagonal attic, in which the corners seem to pass along an imaginary circle. It is worth considering that the attic can be equipped not only with two pitched roof. Using basic technologies, it is possible to arrange and insulate the attic in shed or hipped roof structures.

So, the main feature of the mansard roof should be recognized as two adjacent truss structures that are connected into a triangle or pentagon, thereby creating the desired shape of the roof of the house.

The main technologies for the device of a pitched roof, known today.

• Inclined. The lower tier of the attic is being built, then the upper part is being equipped.
• Hanging. Depending on the technical features roof structures equip the upper part. With a schematic section of the attic roof, you can see that at the bottom it looks like a trapezoid, and at the top it looks like a triangle.

If nothing needs to be done with the shape of the attic, then you can proceed directly to work on warming the room from the inside by choosing a suitable high-quality material.

Types of heaters

When choosing the best insulating material for the attic, one should take into account the main characteristics of the material, its valuable properties, the pros and cons for a particular structure.

As the main criteria for the selection of insulation, it is worth highlighting the following:

• good thermal insulation (for example, foil material, insulation with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basalt material);
• economical use (rational insulation);

• strength and durability;
• water-repellent properties;
• soundproofing;
• ease of installation.

It is important to remember that the main value of the material will be its ability to retain heat, that is, the thermal conductivity of thermal insulation materials.

The best quality is possessed by the insulation, in which the coefficient of thermal conductivity will be lower. For example, less than 0.04 W/ms. This is taking into account the thickness of the material and climatic conditions. There is still the question of the possibility of using the same heat-insulating material for wall and floor cladding. The more universal qualities of the material will just allow you to work on any surface (walls, floors, ceiling). Typically, walls, gables and floors are “wrapped” with such material. This allows you to achieve insulation to the same extent around the entire perimeter of the room.

When choosing heaters, one should not forget about the sound-absorbing properties of the material. To understand this issue, it is worth imagining the noise on a steel roof even from a little rain, especially if we are talking about a residential attic. Tranquility and comfort are the most important criteria for home improvement. Also, when choosing a heater, it is necessary to check load-bearing structure what materials it is made of (metal, wood, reinforced concrete). Combustible materials (rafters) will not allow the use of some types of insulation. But, basically, safe and environmentally friendly are used today. facing materials. Among them there are both traditional (glass wool) and more technologically advanced (eco wool, foil plate). Let's consider some of them.

Plates and mats

For internal insulation attic in the presence of a roof, fireproof and moisture-repellent materials are used, such as mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, penofol, polystyrene, sawdust cake, extruded polystyrene foam. Insulating material in the form of plates and mats is suitable for single or multi-pitched roofs. The crate is done in a similar way. Plates are convenient for transportation and installation.

Rolled

It is more convenient for many to use materials in rolls. You can easily cut a piece to the desired length. Roll insulation from traditional materials is suitable for roofs in which the rafters are at a standard distance from each other. If necessary, the remaining free space can be filled with material.

sprayed

The so-called sprayed materials for lining the attic do not leave joints and areas for the penetration of cold. For example, you can use the method of spraying polyurethane foam. For such insulation, no preliminary preparation of the attic is required. The material is simply poured to a certain thickness (usually the thickness of the rafters). These materials are distinguished by the fact that they are resistant to the development of fungus and mold. Spraying is convenient to carry out both on the walls and on the ceiling.

How to choose?

The quality and durability of the material depends on the manufacturer, operating conditions and the characteristics of the material. The insulation should be as resistant to mechanical stress as possible, so you should always choose the one that is better for specific indicators. The construction market today is replete with modern heaters of different brands, differing in weight, color, installation features.

A small mass of insulation allows you to use it between the rafters of the attic structure. With a stronger frame, it is possible to use heavier material (plates). They are mounted on a crate or on roof structure. Depending on the frequent load on the roof (snow), you can decide on a soft or hard insulation. Too soft will have to be repaired. Too hard can lose in thermal insulation properties, for example, when thermally insulating a ceiling. And, of course, the insulating material for the attic should not crack, deform or change over time. It is not always possible to immediately decide on the choice of material for insulating the attic from the inside, even when it is not necessary to cover the roof.

All thermal insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Having unique characteristics, such materials are evaluated on universal grounds.

• Even a budget option insulation (for example, foam) should keep the heat in the house. Therefore, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Plates from the same foam are practically weightless, no special installation is required, they are suitable for any type of attic space. However, Styrofoam is flammable. Therefore, when choosing a heater, one should not always give preference to cheap analogues.
• Extruded polystyrene foam can be used as insulation both inside and outside the premises. Do not confuse it with foam, the latter has a different structure. Expanded polystyrene does not react to chemical reagents, has a low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. Slabs of material can have different densities, but can be highly deformed.

• Penofol is used as more modern facility as a heater, but also as a more expensive one. Insulation in the form of a rolled material can easily replace mineral wool. It is not affected by moisture. It is believed that this material has properties that can protect against radioactive waves.
• Spraying with liquid polyurethane foam will achieve the desired resistance to drafts. Or rather, they will not be, since joints and gaps on any surface can be closed with a heater. When using the material, there is no need for additional laying of heat-insulating material.

• Ecowool for the attic is used relatively recently. This material consists of 80 percent cellulose. The rest is antiseptic additives. When using ecowool, shrinkage of the material during operation is taken into account. modern material resistant to fire, does not get wet, does not collect bacteria.
• Almost all attic structures of country houses are covered with mineral wool. This material is very popular due to the qualities of heat and sound insulation. It can be laid on the crate or on the frame. Mineral wool is not subject to decay, but it must be remembered that the material is able to absorb moisture and thereby increase in size. And this gives additional weight to the structure.

Thickness calculation

Material with universal parameters - modern insulation, allows you to create in the upper part of the house the most comfortable conditions and the desired microclimate, protecting from heat loss. Installation of insulation depends on its technical characteristics. Consumption is determined by its thickness. Eat different variants installation, since almost everything is used in the construction business today - from mineral wool to polystyrene. It is possible to calculate the required thickness of the insulating material according to a certain scheme and based on the main parameters of SNiP. When calculating the thickness, the craftsmen are guided by regulatory requirements. The characteristics of both the heat insulator itself and the attic structure are taken into account.

Calculation rules.

• When choosing a heater for an attic room, the operational density of the material is taken into account. The heat insulator is selected in such a way as to ensure the overall thermal conductivity of the wall materials.

• The indicator of the load on the structure during the installation of the insulation must be taken into account. Thermal insulation materials differ in weight - it is larger with a higher density of the insulator. So, if the structure is stone or made of brick, this will allow the use of any material for cladding. For wooden frame a lower density insulation is suitable.
• Dew point determination. According to this parameter, when calculating the choice of a heat insulator, the quality of the wall decoration both inside and outside is taken into account. The presence of dense plaster, for example, allows you to "save" on insulation. Incorrectly selected in thickness insulation will lead to the accumulation of condensate, which will adversely affect the performance of the entire structure.

• P is an indicator of the thickness of the material;
• K is the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient.

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space at the expense of the attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating the attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roofing device, as well as figure out whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic area, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations how a roof can be made:

• Between the rafters and the crate there is only a ventilation gap. In this case, the roof is considered absolutely unsuitable for insulation. Will have to be completely disassembled. roof structure to keep her warm.
• A polyethylene film is laid between the crate and the rafters, which acts as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof - fully prepared for subsequent work on its insulation.
• A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the crate. An option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, the main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Heaters

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, cottage, cottage can be carried out using various means. There is also liquid materials, and elastic, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before proceeding with the choice, be sure to pay attention to the design of the roof. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it's better to play it safe. The simplest example is the insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any heater is suitable for a simple gable structure, then far from everything for a broken one.

If you do not consider liquid heaters, then the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, dense insulation is presented in the plates, and fibrous in rolls.

It should be noted that for insulation from the inside, not all options available on the market are suitable. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need for leveling cold bridges.

Materials for internal thermal insulation should be considered in more detail.

Styrofoam

Ordinary foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made plates, which makes it convenient to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene belongs to budgetary thermal insulation solutions, it has many advantages.

So, the foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase the water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it with a special agent., which will clog the pores on the surface, and the water will simply drain over the foam plates.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has a very low weight due to the presence of a large number of voids between the granules that make it up. This contributes to the fact that it will be possible to cope with the insulation work alone. Lightness has another advantage, which is to lighten the load on the roof structure.

Styrofoam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the right size, with an ordinary clerical knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages here. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, the foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Third, styrofoam cannot be made out wooden floors, since over time the tree will shrink, and gaps will appear between the foam plates.

How to insulate the attic with foam plastic is described in the next video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of the foam. The warming solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many others assembly compositions, for example, PPU foam, is that in the process of solidification it does not expand, retaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be applied after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of a dense counterpart, is almost at zero, which makes it mandatory to take care of decent roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, therefore, it copes with its main function - thermal insulation - perfectly well. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation with penoizol will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or foam

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of the installation. So, expanded polystyrene closes the rafters, which is why better tightness is achieved. Expanded polystyrene plates are easily fixed to each other with glue. Due to the low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, while it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If no communications are planned to be carried out to the attic, polystyrene foam will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal and any roof covering.

mineral wool

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to foam. This material refers to rolled, which is due to the convenience of laying heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which radically affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. This does not require any additional fasteners. it is enough just to cut the slabs of cotton wool 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not encroach on cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulation layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly heaters. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. Also, it is better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from the surrounding street noise.

Read more about attic insulation with mineral wool in the next video.

glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but there is a difference. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. This is where fiberglass is used. Due to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has the best sound-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its operational properties.

Many fear that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a dwelling will lead to disastrous consequences. Actually it is not. If done correctly Finishing work, no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than styrofoam because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision from glass dust, Airways and skin coverings.

stone wool

Among all insulating wool, stone wool is more expensive than analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it is itself safe and practically devoid of the shortcomings inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, is not afraid of elevated temperatures, as it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

stone wool perfectly holds everything extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other watts. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if it is compressed, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs, which are easy to cut into the desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other cotton wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed, and then applied by scattering the material using special equipment. It is believed that in this way it will better clog all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two drawbacks here. First, you need to apply ecowool with the help of special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material also cannot be called democratic.

polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable spending on the purchase, it is easier to lease equipment - to rent.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, therefore, when working with the material, it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar principle of operation. It expands in the same way when it solidifies, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which a cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature of it indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roof and floors are made of. Optimal solution when working with him - invite a team of specialists who will perform the installation in a few hours on their equipment, doing everything in compliance with the technology.

Penofol

Penofol is a one-of-a-kind foil insulation. It is produced in the form of polyethylene foam boards, covered with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat back into the room, so heat loss is kept to a minimum.

However, it is important to ensure that the foil side is turned inside the room and not outside when laying.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Due to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since when correct installation it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself due to its special texture.

If you plan to operate the attic for permanent residence, then choosing penofol, you will not regret it.

Room preparation

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check if the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the area of ​​the entire attic. If not, then you should not deal with warming - it will still be impossible to live here.

Next, dismantle all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. Installation of insulation will be carried out either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that the roof, which has smudges, must first be fixed, and only after that you can proceed to the insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, have no gaps, except for ventilation.

vapor barrier

When creating an attic floor for winter living, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first thing to check is the presence of a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is mounted, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

To create a vapor barrier can be used various materials. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the specifics of combinations with insulating materials. All this must be borne in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, it will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly discourage its use. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not "breathe" at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. So, the condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, falls on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if in your house the vapor barrier is still made using plastic film, refuse to buy water-absorbing heaters, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to break down and crack, so after a short period of time you still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, so it has received universal recognition. However, it is necessary to act here in two directions. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, it guarantees reliable protection and optimal microclimate in the attic. Above, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid.. Only then can the optimum effect be achieved.

Glassine is more needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any one can be chosen as an insulating material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not subject to attack by rodents. Both cotton options and penoplex are perfect.

Ruberoid

Roofing material has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nevertheless, if possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that the roofing material is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for hydro and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If it is decided to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good things from it. vapor barrier qualities. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same polyethylene film.

It should be borne in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing material from the inside, which will lead to wetting of the insulation. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in winter, and everything is planned to be redone in the spring), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing material.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barrier due to the fact that it was designed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensate and further prevents it from getting on the heater. The two-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On the one hand it is smooth, and on the other - a little rough. On the rough side, drops of condensate linger and evaporate. With the help of isospan, they vaporize not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic.

Depending on the properties of isospan, markings differ. The most expensive, but materials with the effect of energy saving FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensate from rolling off and spoiling the insulation.

waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, not steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications, from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There is diffusion, superdiffusion, and also anti-condensate, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find, having disassembled the sheathing material, one of these membranes, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its qualities. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and a vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and the rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side must be well protected from moisture. Only in this case, the variety will cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to consider the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the interior space. The number and thickness of the plates depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the plates depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the step between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then it will be necessary to independently prepare an additional crateto make the fixing of thermal insulation possible.

As for the sprayed heaters, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. Beforehand, it will be necessary to clarify such data as the estimated thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Warming scheme

Since when insulating the attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the scheme of laying layers only for it.

Starting from the outside, the cake will look like this:

• Above is located roofing material, which is not touched. Under it are a crate and a counter-crate, which serve as a frame.
• Next comes a layer of hydro and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
• A layer of insulation is laid out under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, an additional crate can be built here.
• From the side of the room, a vapor barrier layer is attached to protect the insulation.
• Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate the attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the layout of the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• It is necessary to retreat a little from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to "breathe".
• After that, the heater is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, as well as sprayed. How it is necessary to handle this or that insulating material is written in the instructions for it.
• Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor must be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that is turned towards the insulation, and this should not be so.
• At the last stage, the finishing. There are many options to choose from, but drywall, clapboard, or MDF boards are usually purchased.

• it is better to buy cotton wool insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they do not need time to “track down”;
• to insulate the floor, you need to choose foam or other inexpensive material;
• the insulation does not need additional fixing, however, if anything, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.

The roof is one of the most important structural elements building. It is exposed to various environmental factors. Protects the house from high and low temperatures, precipitation, solar radiation. If the roof is not insulated in accordance with building codes, heat loss through the roof can reach a third of the total heat loss of the house. Insulation of a mansard roof is not such a simple process as it might seem, although it is doable with your own hands. If your house has an attic floor, the question will inevitably arise how to insulate the attic roof. Many owners prefer to make an extra room there. First, it increases the total living area of ​​the house. Secondly, there is a new original room. During the construction of modern cottage settlements, attic rooms are planned initially. But even in old houses, you can easily convert the attic with your own hands into a living space.

The insulating material used for the attic roof, in addition to keeping the heat in the house, protects against acoustic vibrations. Therefore, it is important to decide what is better to insulate mansard roof.

First you need to decide how to insulate the roof of your attic. To date, there are many options for thermal insulation materials. Mounting them is easy to do with your own hands.

Thermal insulation should contribute to maintaining a favorable atmosphere in the room. In winter, the house should be kept warm, and in summer - cool.

There are many nuances in the installation of the roof itself. The walls of the attic room are either the gables of the building or the slopes of the roof, or are adjacent to the slopes. That is why the intensive movement of air through the roof begins. Because of this, it is constantly exposed to temperature changes. To avoid the above problem, attic insulation must be carried out in sequence (from the inner layer to the outer layer):

1. Vapor barrier layer.
2. Heat insulating layer.
3. Ventilation gap.
4. waterproof layer.
5. Directly roofing material.

If high-quality insulation of the mansard roof is carried out, then the absence of the above layers is not recommended. Of particular note is the role of the heat-insulating layer and the ventilation gap. It is thanks to the presence of all layers that the microclimate in the attic room is provided.

What to look for when choosing a heater

When choosing a heater, you should first look at thermal conductivity. This is the ability to give and absorb heat between the attic space and the surrounding air. A material with low thermal conductivity is desirable. Firstly, it will contribute to better protection of the house from heat leaks. And secondly, a thin layer of heat-insulating material is required.

Properly insulated attic

On the other hand, if the attic roof is not adequately insulated, problems begin in winter. IN winter months the roof is covered with a layer of snow. Snow is a good additional heat-insulating layer. But with insufficient insulation with your own hands, heat is lost through the roof. The snow is gradually melting. A layer of ice forms. Ice is unable to retain heat. It has a mechanical effect on structures. Including on the outer covering of the roof. This leads to its wear and gradual destruction. Sometimes because of this, it is required to repair the outer roofing layer after each winter. With sufficient thermal insulation, snow does not melt and does not turn into ice in winter. The roof retains its structure, and the snow provides additional protection against heat loss. In summer, the situation is reversed. Under the influence of direct solar radiation, the roof tends to heat up and a suffocating atmosphere is created. If you lay a layer of insulation in sufficient quantities, this problem will not be, and a comfortable environment is provided in the attic.

The main characteristics of heaters

When deciding how to insulate the attic roof of a house from the inside, in addition to thermal conductivity, it is necessary to pay attention to several more important parameters of the insulating material. The most important characteristics:

• water resistance;
• weight;
• fire safety;
• durability;
• material thickness;
• environmental characteristics;
• terms of operation.

Moisture resistance is usually specified by the manufacturer of a particular material. It is an important parameter, since the roof can leak and get wet. Therefore, it is desirable to choose a material with water-repellent properties. If this is not available for one reason or another, then the layer will have to be additionally waterproofed. Also has great importance material weight. The smaller it is, the better. The total weight of the material is determined based on its relative density. Mineral wool materials should be with a density of 45 to 50 kg / cubic meter. When using fiberglass, the density should be within 20 kg/m3. Heavier materials will put excessive pressure on structures.

Insulating layers must be non-combustible. This is usually reflected in technical documentation. As for durability, the ability of the insulation to maintain its shape for many years is important. After all, the roof can be multi-pitched. If the insulation is deformed, the roof will simply lose its protective properties.

What materials are popular

It is necessary to disassemble each separately in order to decide how to properly insulate the roof of the attic. Main materials:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool.

The better to insulate the attic roof, you decide. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with each material.

Styrofoam- this is a sought-after material among people who are faced with the problem of how to properly insulate a mansard roof. It has suitable thermal conductivity, low density and, accordingly, low weight. Polyfoam provides good protection against water, it is quite inexpensive. On the other hand, it has certain disadvantages. Its main disadvantage is the lack of fire safety. Also, when installing with your own hands, it often crumbles. As a result, gaps appear between the rafters. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the coating. Styrofoam also has a short service life.

Extruded polystyrene foam has the best performance. Firstly, it is non-combustible and provides the necessary fire safety. Doesn't crumble over time. Has water repellent properties. Another plus is that a very thin layer of material is needed. The material is not recommended to insulate living quarters.

polyurethane foam differs from the previous options in the way of laying. This leaves no gaps. The material retains its shape very well. It has the necessary fire safety and repels moisture. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is the poor ability to pass vapor. Because of this, there may be increased humidity in the attic room. The problem is solved by the organization of adequate ventilation.

Mineral wool and glass wool commonly known as insulating materials. They have many advantages. Excellent fire safety, keep heat well, have a low density. Do not leave cracks and gaps when laying. The material provides excellent sound insulation, has a low price. The disadvantages include high moisture absorption and vapor absorption.

Important: installation of glass wool is carried out in closed clothing, a mask and gloves. Contact of material particles with skin and mucous membranes should be avoided.

Laying heat-insulating material

When insulating the attic, do not forget about hydro and vapor barrier

After selecting the material, it is necessary to prepare the premises for installation. Insulation of the attic roof begins with determining the step of laying the insulation. We must try to ensure that the sheets of insulation fit closely between the roof rafters. This will avoid the formation of gaps and further heat loss. If you are using foam, then this nuance does not matter to you. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap between the rafters and the crate. Then, with the help of screws, wooden panels are installed to provide ventilation. The insulating material itself is mounted directly on the created platform between the rafters.

Tip: the rafters themselves let heat through. It is necessary to lay an additional thin layer of insulating material on top. Be sure to remember the location of the rafters.

This is useful when attaching various structures in the attic room.

Video: brief abstracts of proper thermal insulation with mineral wool insulation

Thus, it is not difficult to insulate the roof. To do this, you need to choose suitable material which suits you. And then, in accordance with the technology, mount the insulation. As a result, a favorable climate for living will be created in the attic room.

today is not uncommon. Increase at the expense of the attic useful square meters- The easiest way. But in order to throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will consider how the attic is insulated from the inside if the roof is already covered with roofing material. We will figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.

And although many believe that the attic is a kind of attic, in fact, this is a completely different room, which differs from the first in size. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.

In all other respects, this is an attic space, fenced with a truss system with laid on it. If the roof is gable, then on both sides the attic is protected by gables - vertical walls that support the truss structure. It is in them that they make doors with access to the adjacent balcony. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.

The assembly technology of the truss system and roofing material lies in the fact that between them it is necessary to fit, enclosing wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the roofing. This is a kind of insurance policy. Mainly used on rooftops waterproofing material roll type, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and fastening to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight sag in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be fastened with adhesive tape or self-adhesive tape.

Then the rafters are stuffed along wooden slats, which are called a counter-lattice, and already on them are mounted transverse rails, called the crate. Roofing material with fasteners is laid on the latter.

The inside view of the attic is rafter legs covered with a waterproofing layer on top. It is this design that will have to. The question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires, first of all, the definition of a heater, or rather, its choice. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with all, and be sure to designate the best of them.

Mansard roof insulation

It should be noted that the slope of the slopes that define the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed by rafter legs. It is between them that it will be necessary to lay the heat-insulating material. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear forms. So, for the insulation of the mansard roof of a private house, it will be necessary to choose board material. Such heaters include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.

But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique technologies for insulation that do not use dense materials. One of them, which showed itself from the most positive side, is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.

Mineral wool

The definition of mineral wool includes several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to talk about the basalt variety, as the best to date. It is her specifications and we will consider.

Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:

• P-75- used for insulation of pipes and horizontal surfaces;
• P-125- this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands;
• PZh-175- for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
• PPZh-200- a very dense material used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.

Styrofoam boards

Often this material is called foam, which is true. Just from the variety that is used for packaging, polystyrene foam boards differ in density. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, well withstanding mechanical stress and moisture.

We will immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and the love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof, it is better to take expanded polystyrene plates with a density of at least 25 kg / m³.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

It is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of polyol and polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and are supplied under pressure to the thermal insulation areas through a hose and a spray gun. In fact, polyurethane foam is a liquid substance that quickly hardens in air, turning into a solid and fairly durable coating.

The thermal conductivity characteristic is taken as the basis for the quality of heaters. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.

But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest, and it will require special equipment to apply it. True, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations, the weight of which is only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to take it from friends or rent it.

And a few more varieties of heat-insulating materials, which are rarely used in roof insulation from the inside with their own hands.

glass wool

Ecowool

Penofol

How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the ongoing process

So, we decided on thermal insulation materials. Now consider how to properly insulate the mansard roof with each.

Attention! When insulating the attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer to be laid must be equal to the width rafter legs, the width of the insulation should be equal to a little more than the distance between the rafters.

Warming the attic with mineral wool from the inside with your own hands: video and photo instructions

Photo	Description of works
	Mineral wool is laid out on the floor of the attic. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation enters between the elements of the truss system without leaving.
	Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently gentle, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell.
	Therefore, transverse slats are stuffed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs.
	Instead of rails, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled through the studs driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs.
	Insulation is being laid under the stuffed rails.
	It remains only to close the heat-insulating cake with a waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapor from penetrating into the heat-insulating layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity, it begins to lose its properties.
	The waterproofing membrane is nailed with nails or metal staples to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping strips, starting from the bottom up.

Attention! If one layer of mineral wool is not enough to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the material slabs must be laid with an offset relative to each other. Joints between plates in one layer must not be allowed to coincide with joints in the second layer.

Insulation of the attic with foam

As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards for attic insulation. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to arrange protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof under the roofing material a hydro- or vapor barrier membrane was not used, then PP boards are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.

Photo	Description of works
	As in the case of mineral wool, styrofoam boards are cut to the size of the distance between the rafter legs.
	Slabs cut to size are stacked in truss system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future, as it removes not only moist air vapor, but also some harmful components of the heat-insulating material itself. Without the formation of this gap, the PP cannot be laid.
	Another layer is already laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface with itself and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is fastened to the rafters with self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer.

It is very important to mix the components of the insulation correctly, their ratio should be 1:1.

Insulation of roofs of different geometries

The methods of thermal insulation of a pitched roof have been described above, in which the slope is one plane. But attics are also formed under broken roofs, so the question of insulation broken roof from the inside, is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially with regard to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.

A broken roof has a junction of two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, at the junction of the two systems, it is necessary to carry out the butt laying of heaters without butt. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so that it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.

With a sloping roof, an attic room is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes are insulated, located in the same transitional plane, then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it is difficult to carry out the thermal insulation of the upper slope or the task is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limited to the insulation of the ceiling.

What mistakes can occur when insulating the attic from the inside

Answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside of an attic room with your own hands, you need to understand that this process itself is simple (not counting the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the final result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to look for:

1. Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier under the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
2. Between heat-insulating cake and the roofing must remain a gap that is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the crate, which is mounted on the counter-crate.
3. If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13 °, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leakage.
4. If roof slopes are installed skylights, then you need to take care of their hermetic installation. It is better not to do it yourself, call the experts.
5. If the thickness of the acquired insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then the slats can be pierced along the lower edges of the latter.

So, we examined how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.