Scheme of connecting the built-in hood to ventilation. Efficient ventilation for the kitchen in the apartment and private house. Kitchen hood without connection to ventilation

In order for the apartment or house to have fresh and clean air, the kitchen must have very good ventilation. Natural ventilation cannot cope with the task of timely removal of odors during cooking, therefore a special forced ventilation device, a kitchen hood, is hung over the stove. How to install the hood correctly, how to fix it and bring it into the ventilation system - more on that later.

Installing a hood in the kitchen is a wise decision

How to hang a hood over the stove

With the right size, it is equal in width to or even slightly larger than the width of the plate. In order to properly install the hood, it must be correctly positioned and fixed. The electric hood is located exactly above the stove. The installation height depends on the type of hob:

Above the gas stove, the minimum allowable height for hanging the hood is 75 cm.
Above the electrical value is slightly less - 65 cm minimum.

You determine the exact height yourself - according to the height of the hostess who will cook. The bottom edge of the hood should be just above her head. You should not hang lower than the minimum distance, but you can hang higher. But if you need to hang the equipment higher than 90 cm from the level of the stove, you need a unit with increased power— to remove polluted air efficiently.

The hood is attached depending on the type. Built-in - to a cabinet specially ordered in size. Hinged (flat) and domed (chimney) - to the wall. Chimney hoods themselves can consist of two parts - a unit with a motor and filters and a dome. Both parts are attached independently of each other, but so that their outputs coincide.

Separately, it should be said about island hoods. They are attached to the ceiling. The kit comes with a suspension system and clear recommendations on what and how to do.

Installation steps

The entire installation and connection process can be divided into several stages:

If there is a power outlet nearby, there will be no problems with connecting to electricity. Other stages are also not very complicated, but we will consider them in more detail.

Mounting to the wall of a hinged or domed model

Although outwardly these two models differ, they are attached to the wall. They have four holes on the back wall of the case - two on the left, two on the right. Many manufacturers supply their products with a mounting template, which marks the location of the fasteners. All that is needed is to lean the template against the wall, transfer the marks. If there is no template, measure the distance between the holes, transfer to the wall. If there is an assistant, you can ask to hold it at the chosen height, and make marks yourself.

Then everything is simple: using a drill, we make holes right size, insert the plastic plugs of the dowels, then hang the hood on the dowel-nails. Naturally, we check the horizontalness of the installed equipment.

This method is good if the wall is even and nothing interferes. Often a gas pipe runs next to the stove, which makes it impossible to hang the hood close to the wall. In this case, wooden bars can be nailed to the wall, and the hood can already be attached to the bars. This is a simple option, but not very good - the bars are covered with soot and it is difficult to wash them.

The second option to install the hood behind the pipes is to use a stud screw (the second name is a plumbing stud). They have a thread for screwing into the wall, a smooth part, which makes it possible to carry the hood to a certain distance from the wall, and a finer thread with two nuts, with which we will fix the body. There are these studs in different sizes, choose which one you need, but all nuts are made to fit a bit or an octagonal key.

This option for mounting the hood is universal, simple in execution, and reliable. It is also more convenient to maintain - the metal is usually stainless, it is not difficult to wash it from deposits.

Installation of a built-in hood in a cabinet

The built-in hood is almost completely hidden in a cabinet made for it. It is fastened in the same way as described above - on screws, they are only screwed into the walls. Only previously in the shelves located above it is necessary to make holes for the air duct. This is done after the hood is purchased, since the location of the air outlet depends on the company and model.

If the locker is hanging, it is better to remove it. In the removed cabinet, install the hood in place, mark the location of the air outlet on the lower shelf, cut it out. To do this, it is easier to use an electric jigsaw and a file with fine teeth. The saw blade for laminate leaves almost no chips. If desired, the cut point can be sealed with a plastic C-shaped furniture profile. They are rigid and flexible. It is easy to use flexible - it bends at any angle, rigid ones will have to be heated with a building hair dryer before installation. These profiles are “sit down” on glue, most often they use “liquid nails”. After installation in place, remove the remnants of glue (with a damp clean cloth), fix with masking tape to the shelf. We cut off the excess profile with a file with a fine tooth, clean the cut with fine-grained sandpaper.

In the same way, we make holes in other shelves. By the way, they may no longer be round, but rectangular - it depends on the section of the air duct you have chosen.

After that, all the shelves are installed in place, the cabinet is hung and fixed. A built-in hood is attached to it with screws through the holes in the case. Next is the process of connecting the duct.

How to connect the hood to electricity

Since the power consumption of kitchen hoods rarely exceeds 1 kW, they can be connected to ordinary sockets. It is desirable that they be grounded. This requirement must be met if you want the warranty to be valid.

If the wiring in the apartment is old, you can throw the ground or ground wire yourself. Just do not attach it to plumbing or heating pipes. This threatens the possibility of electrical injury or even death for you, members of your sichs or neighbors.

To reach the ground wire, on the shield, find a busbar with wires attached to it or a pipe to which a stranded wire is welded / screwed. You can also connect your own stranded wire to these devices (without discarding those that already exist). For it to work normally, the cross section must be 2.5 mm, the conductor is stranded copper, a non-combustible sheath is desirable.

Some of the hoods come with a plug at the end. With the connection of such models, there are no questions - to the outlet and that's it. But there are models in which the cord ends with wires. This is not from the greed of the manufacturer, but for the consumer to decide for himself how best to connect the equipment. If you want, you can connect the plug. This option is not suitable - take the terminal block and connect through it. Another option is Wago terminal blocks. They need to take three pieces - according to the number of wires. In one terminal block, the same wires are connected from the hood and from the shield - phase to phase (here the colors can be different), zero (blue or blue) to zero, ground (yellow-green) to ground.

Air duct for kitchen hood

One of the stages of installing the hood is the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature is vented from the kitchen, so there are no special requirements for air ducts and you can use any. Three types are commonly used:

There is another difference between plastic and corrugated duct - the price. Polymers are more expensive. Despite this, if you have the opportunity to install a hood using PVC, install them. With an equal cross section, they provide more efficient air removal, and also make less noise.

The cross section of the pipes for the duct is determined by the size of the outlet on the hood. In the case of rectangular pipes, an adapter is used.

Dimensions of ducts for hoods

Round ducts are available in three sizes: 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. This is the diameter plastic pipes and pleated sleeves. There are more cross sections of flat air ducts and they are presented in the table.

How to choose the size? In case of round pipes their diameter must match the diameter of the outlet of the hood. It is highly undesirable to put an adapter on the outlet, and then use a smaller diameter duct - this will reduce the rate of air purification. And even if the hood is very powerful, then it will not cope with air purification.

With the choice of the section of a rectangular duct - the area of its section should not be less area section of the outlet pipe. And the connection is made through a suitable adapter.

How to attach the corrugation to the hood and ventilation

If you decide to install a hood and use aluminum corrugation for the duct, you will need to think about how to attach it to the body and to the ventilation. To do this, you need clamps of the right size. They can be metal or plastic.

To connect the hood to the ventilation system, you will also need a special ventilation grill. It has a hole in the upper part for connecting the duct pipe. In the lower part there are holes for removing air from the kitchen using natural circulation at a time when the hood is not working.

A grating with a ledge is suitable for fastening the corrugation - around the hole there is a side of a few centimeters, on which the corrugation is put on, after which it is fastened with a clamp of a suitable size.

By the same principle, a corrugated duct is attached to the hood. It has a ledge on which the corrugation is put on. The connection is tightened with a clamp.

How to fix the duct to the walls

For plastic air ducts there are special fasteners in the form of latches. They are first mounted on the wall using dowels. The installation step depends on the curvature of the track, but on average, 1 mount per 50-60 cm is enough. Pipes are inserted into these latches during installation with little effort.

If the duct is to be fixed to the ceiling, the same fixings can be used. But if you need to maintain a certain distance from the ceiling, this type of installation will not work. In such cases, they take perforated drywall hangers, fasten them to the ceiling, then use small PVC screws for the exhaust duct to them.

Corrugated air ducts are attached to the walls with clamps or large plastic puffs. If necessary, they are also mounted to the ceiling using perforated aluminum hangers.

Where and how to bring the air duct

Most often, the duct from the hood in the kitchen is connected to the vent through which natural ventilation (due to draft) goes. This is wrong, since in this case most of the grille is closed by an air duct, and air exchange through the remaining available holes will be clearly insufficient.

Correctly connect the air duct to a separate ventilation duct. In this case, the same grate is installed on the hole as in the photo above.

If there is no separate ventilation duct, but it is located nearby outer wall, you can take the pipe outside by placing a grate outside. These are two ways to have normal ventilation and ensure the normal operation of the hood.

How to get outside

To install the hood and bring the duct into the wall, you need to make a hole in it. And this is the only difficulty. Further, an air duct is inserted into this hole, sealed with a solution. Outside, the hole is closed with a grate - so that debris does not get in, birds and small animals do not settle.

To prevent air from the street from blowing into the room, a check valve is installed (in the figure above it is indicated by an oblique line). By the way, it is also desirable to install it when connecting the air duct to the ventilation system - so that odors from the pipes do not enter the room.

A non-return or anti-return air valve is a light plastic or a metal plate. It is movably attached in two places to the pipe - at the top and bottom, the petals are supported by a slight spring. While the hood is not working, the valve blocks the access of air from outside. When the hood is turned on, the air flow bends the plate forward, squeezing the spring. As soon as the hood is turned off, the plate returns to its place with the help of springs. If you install a hood without this valve, it may be too cold in the kitchen in winter - outside air will enter the room without any problems.

So that the hood does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen

With the help of a tee and a non-return valve, by the way, you can install the hood so that it does not interfere with the natural ventilation in the kitchen. You will need a special ventilation grill for connecting hoods, a check valve and a tee. A tee is attached to the ventilation grill, an air duct from the hood is connected to its lower inlet, and a check valve is placed on the free outlet, only so that the petals are locked when air passes from the pipe (in the photo below).

How does such a system work? When the hood is turned off, the check valve petals are bent, air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the grill and the open outlet of the tee. When the hood is turned on, the air flow from it unfolds the valve plate, and the air goes into the ventilation system. When the hood is turned off, the springs again open access to air through the tee.

Outwardly, such a system does not look very attractive and it will have to be somehow masked. But this is the only way to connect the hood to the only existing ventilation outlet and not reduce air exchange.

No matter what they say, but installing a hood in the kitchen should be considered a mandatory task. Judge for yourself. In the absence of a system for removing or cleaning the fumes rising from the stove or hob, the owners get a lot of completely unnecessary problems. The steam that freely spreads throughout the kitchen is already capable of condensing on walls, ceilings, pieces of furniture - they will always be wet, which does not benefit them in any way.

In addition, in most cases, this steam also contains a fatty component, which will definitely appear as hard-to-remove stains. How long will the kitchen finish last in such conditions? And if you consider that the preparation of certain dishes is not always accompanied by only pleasant aromas, and these smells tend to spread throughout the apartment ...

In a word, all doubts must go away. Extraction is a must!

There are a lot of models of hoods in the assortment of stores. various types and sizes. There are plenty to choose from for a particular kitchen, taking into account the features of its layout and kitchen furniture. Yes, and installing this device on your own is within the power of most good owners who know how to use a basic set of home tools. And to help them there will be a real publication, which just looks at step by step how to connect the hood in the kitchen with your own hands.

A few words about the varieties of kitchen hoods

The purpose of this publication is not to review the entire variety of kitchen hoods and give recommendations on choosing the optimal model. However, there is still a need to touch on some issues, since they directly affect the process of installing the device itself.

First of all, hoods should be divided into two large groups.

The first can be attributed to devices for which the term "hood" fully corresponds to the principle of their operation. Indeed, the functional purpose of such models is to collect all the fumes rising from the stove and remove them outside the kitchen through channels specially prepared for this.

A regular ventilation duct (subject to certain conditions) or a specially made hole in the wall leading directly to the street can be used as ways to remove the collected fumes. From the installed hood to the ventilation vent or exit to the street, an air duct is laid from metal or plastic pipes or ducts.

Air filtration before it enters the air duct system is still necessary - otherwise the channels will quickly overgrow with fatty layers, on which then dust will form a dense hard-to-remove “carpet”. In addition, such plaque quickly covers the fan impeller. But this problem is easily solved by the presence of only grease filters - metal, subject to periodic washing, or very inexpensive fabric ones.

The second group is hoods, which, in fact, do not pull the vapors out, but forcibly pass them through a cascade of filters. The flow rising from the stove is cleaned of grease, possible soot, a special filter neutralizes odors. And then all the purified air in full returns to the kitchen.

It is clear that the "installation" of such a device is much simpler. All that is required is to fix the hood on the wall above the stove and turn it on to the power supply. But the efficiency of air purification in the kitchen is still incomparably lower. In addition, you will have to purchase and replace filters quite often - otherwise, the use of such a hood completely loses its meaning.

I must say that such a division is very conditional. The fact is that the vast majority of models of kitchen hoods are designed to work in any of these modes. That is, the whole difference will be precisely in matters and equipping it with the necessary cascade of filters. There are, of course, models designed exclusively for withdrawal or recycling, but this is rather an exception to the general trend. So the connection scheme, by and large, depends on the desire of the owners of the kitchen.

Prices for the hood "ELIKOR"

hood "ELIKOR"

The same model can be installed both for extracting fumes outside the kitchen and for recirculating air

It differs in hoods and installation features.

Wall models, as the name implies, are attached directly to the wall. For their installation, standard brackets or mounting plates with hooks included in the kit can be used. For many hoods, the ends of the fasteners (dowels) with caps protruding from the wall are sufficient - on the back of the device there are ordinary curly cutouts.

Wall-mounted models include almost all dome-type hoods. By the way, they can also differ in the place of installation - there are models designed specifically for installation in the corner, if that is where the stove or hob is located.

Suspended hoods are attached to the lower plane of a cabinet or shelf located above the stove. These are usually small in height and weight of the model. To pass the duct pipe in the bottom of the cabinet or in the shelf, you will have to cut out the corresponding window.

Built-in hoods, of course, are designed specifically for placement inside kitchen furniture located above the stove. It can also be a special locker, which is purchased simultaneously with the hood. Or the device is selected to enter into kitchen set a cabinet in which the installation of an exhaust hood is just structurally provided. And finally, the skillful hands of good home master they may well remake an ordinary cabinet for the installation of such a device, or make the necessary one “from scratch” on their own.

Finally, in spacious kitchens with a non-standard arrangement of furniture and equipment, island-type hoods can also be used. They are attached to ceiling surface by using special devices. Due to the fact that such devices are rare, they will not be considered further in the course of this publication.

Island hood attached to the ceiling surface of the kitchen

In any case, the purchased new hood will necessarily be accompanied by instructions for its installation, which should be followed. Some manufacturers attach a special template to the instructions, which allows you to minimize the likelihood of errors when marking.

A few important requirements for installing a kitchen hood

And when choosing, and when installing the device, it is always necessary to keep in mind a number of important nuances.

First of all, the hood for the kitchen should be purchased not only and not so much for reasons of compactness or appearance suitable for the overall design. In order for the device to cope with its main task, it must have the required performance.

Usually proceed from the calculation of tenfold air exchange. That is, the volume (it is easy to determine it by simply multiplying the length, width and height of the room) of the kitchen should be multiplied by ten - it is such an array of air that the hood should be able to pump for an hour.

To exclude surprises associated, for example, with a sharp pressure drop in the ventilation shaft or with clogging of air ducts with a violation of the patency, it is better to take this coefficient not 10, but even 12 ÷ 13. The path will be a small operational margin.

It is necessary to examine and evaluate the place of the planned installation of the device in advance. If wall mounting is intended, there must be sufficient space for this. Well, the wall itself, of course, be strong enough, having the proper bearing capacity to withstand the load from the hanging device.
A very common occurrence - it descends along the wall to the slab metal pipe gas pipeline. It is strictly forbidden to change its position on your own, and calling the masters for alteration may require a lot of additional costs. The way out is to install the hood with a slight indent from the wall, but for this you will have to think over special brackets or fasteners or fix a gasket on the wall surface, for example, a wooden beam.

Bosch range hood prices

hood "Bosch"

The installation height of the hood must also obey certain rules. It is clear that safety issues should come first. Therefore, the hood must not be located closer than 700 mm from gas stove and 600 from electric. The growth of the owners should also be taken into account - so that they do not hit their heads on the appliance when cooking. But it is also not recommended to “lift up” the height of the installation too much - this negatively affects the efficiency of removal and filtration of rising fumes. The optimal height seems to be from 750 to 850 mm.

There are, however, exceptions to the rule. So, some modern hoods with a working surface located at an angle to the horizon can be placed slightly lower. But this must be specified by the manufacturer in the instruction manual for a particular model.

By the way, when purchasing a hood of this type, you should pay attention to one more circumstance. Some models are designed to work exclusively with electric stoves. That is, their use in "tandem" with gas equipment is strictly prohibited.

Again, based on considerations of the efficiency of the hood, you should purchase a model whose dimensions (meaning the area of \u200b\u200bthe receiving “screen”) are in any case not less than the size of the plate. Moreover, the higher it is planned to install the hood above the stove (taking into account, for example, the growth of the owners), the larger the dimensions of the working surface should be, otherwise the fumes can spread around the kitchen, flowing around the appliance around the edges.

The diagram above is provided as an example. And so, if you plan the location and optimal dimensions working surface of the hood, you can proceed from the following recommendation. Schematically, it is shown in the illustration below.

The boundaries of the hood must be wider than the slab, and be no less than the width limited by conditional lines drawn through the slab boundaries, diverging outward at an angle of 10 degrees from the vertical. For electric stoves, you can limit yourself to an angle of 7 degrees. This is explained by the fact that the hood above the gas stove should capture and remove not only the fumes that occur during cooking, but also the combustion products of the fuel. That is, her task is more responsible.

Prices for built-in hoods "MAUNFELD"

Built-in hood MAUNFELD

It is easy to draw such a graphic diagram for your own conditions on a scale on your own, and then compare the desired mounting height of the hood and its recommended width for such an arrangement. Or to carry out a mathematical calculation, remembering the elementary geometric formulas.

This calculation is implemented in the proposed online calculator.

During cooking, soot appears in the kitchen, which settles on the walls and ceiling. The air is filled with harmful impurities and carcinogens, which are released with combustion products.

To soot from cooking, smoke and other unpleasant odors did not poison your life, you need to purchase and install a hood.

Connecting ventilation and a good hood will help get rid of these troubles. It is able not only to purify the air, but also to extend the life of furniture and finishes in the kitchen. How to connect the hood to the ventilation, what needs to be done for this - more on that later.

Types of exhaust devices

Choosing a hood and installing it in the kitchen must be deliberate. The stores have a huge range of these products and accessories for them. All of them are divided according to the principle of action into several types:

Hoods are island, corner, wall and built-in.

Classic devices during operation remove all polluted air from the room through a standard ventilation duct.
Recirculation hoods suck in dirty air, clean it with built-in filters and return the cleaned air back to the kitchen.
Combined type hoods are able to work on the principle of both classic appliances and in filtration mode.

The installation method of hoods divides these devices into categories:

Embedded appliances. They are designed to be installed inside kitchen furniture, which is located above the stove.
Hanging devices. Such hoods are suspended above the stove.
Wall devices. The name itself indicates that they are mounted on the wall.
island units. Not quite familiar, as they are attached to the ceiling approximately in the middle of the kitchen.
Corner hoods. Their usual location is the corner of the kitchen.

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The right choice of device

Each kitchen requires the connection of an extractor hood of a certain power, on which the performance of the device depends. Productivity is the amount of air in cubic meters that the hood can pass in an hour of operation. In Russia, standards have been established according to which a complete renewal of the air in the kitchen should occur 12 times within an hour. Calculating this value is simple: multiply the volume of the room by 12. You need to add 30% to this figure. This is a compensation for losses in the duct due to its length, bends and other reasons.

A specific example: the width of the kitchen is 3 m, the length is 4 m, the height to the ceiling is 3 m. The volume of the room will be 3x4x3 = 36 m³. This figure is multiplied by 12 and it turns out 36x12 = 432 m³. You need to add 30% to this figure, you get 432 + 30% = 561.6 m³. This volume of air must be pumped by the hood to ensure the normal state of the air in the kitchen.

When choosing a device, not the last place is occupied by the indicator of the noise level emitted by the hood. If it exceeds 50 dB, it is better to abandon such a device. There are many models that work almost silently.

Built-in hood device: 1 - control panel; 2 - body; 3 - reusable grease-catching aluminum filters; 4 - lighting lamps; 5 - sliding panel.

Air duct for the kitchen, you can choose plastic or corrugated. Plastic is usually made of PVC. The pipes are very light and strong. The air passes through them silently, since the walls of the pipes are smooth inside. The corrugated aluminum pipe can be bent freely, it does not buzz or vibrate during the operation of the hood. The disadvantage of this material is not a very attractive look. Such pipes are usually hidden behind drywall panels, if possible.

When choosing a hood, you should pay attention to some nice additions that some models are equipped with:

An indicator that shows the degree of clogging of the filter in the recirculation device.
Built-in lamps illuminating the work area.
The system automatically turns on the hood when you turn on the stove.
Timer. It can be set for a certain time, after which the device will turn off the network.
Switching on and off with the remote control.
Possibility to choose different operating modes of the device.

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How to properly mount the hood?

Any hood is mounted in compliance with certain rules. Only in this case can the safety and stability of its operation be ensured. The device is installed in most cases above the stove at a height of 70-85 cm from its surface. If the distance is shorter, the hood may fail due to overheating. If it is mounted very high, then its effectiveness will significantly decrease. The width of the exhaust device cannot be less than the width of the gas or electric stove. This size must be taken into account when choosing and purchasing a device.

Connecting a recirculation hood is the easiest option. These devices do not remove polluted air to the outside. They only filter it, all particles of soot and soot remain in the filter material, and the purified air enters the kitchen again. There is no need to connect the device to the ventilation system. The device is simply firmly attached to the wall and connected to the electrical network through a socket pre-installed near the stove.

Installing a device that completely removes polluted air through a ventilation system is a much more difficult task. The hood must not only be attached to the wall, but also connected to the channel of the ventilation system. If the stove is located far from the ventilation shaft, but close to the window, then it is possible to equip the outlet of polluted air to the outside through a specially made hole in the wall. This will be easier than pulling long ducts through the kitchen, which do not add beauty and grace to the room.

In typical apartments, the task is simplified by the fact that special adapters, pipes and clamps sold in stores are great for connecting the hood to ventilation. It remains only to connect them tightly enough to each other. When doing work, you need to follow a few rules:

The pipe coming from the hood must not completely cover the ventilation duct. It should ventilate the kitchen area naturally while the hood is turned off.
The air duct leading to the vent from the hood must be installed in such a way that the free passage of polluted air is ensured.
The number of turns and the total length of the duct should be kept to a minimum. Approximately 10% of the exhaust power is consumed for each bend in the duct.
Pipes are better to choose plastic. They have completely smooth inner walls. Corrugated pipes with their ribbed surface delay the air flow. They publish elevated level noise.
All necessary turns of the duct should be made as smooth as possible.
The room must be constantly supplied with fresh air from the street.
The optimal diameter of the duct pipes is 12-15 cm.

If you decide to install a hood, you should consider in advance the question of its connection. First of all, we are talking about the conclusion to the ventilation and electrical networks. Some features relate directly to installation. Only with observance of all rules the device will cope with the functions assigned to it.

If we talk about design differences, hoods are divided into wall-mounted, desktop, island,. Wall models are often made in a rounded and rectangular shape, which allows you to cover the entire plane of the hob. Built-in ones are practically invisible to the eye, because they fit into the furniture profile.

Compact desktop hoods are installed about - today it is in demand on small kitchens. Island - a popular option for spacious rooms. Models are hung in the ceiling area above.

Modern exhaust technology is presented in three types:

During recirculation, the air passes through the filters, returning back to the room.

At the outlet, the air masses are discharged into the vent. Combined can work in any of the indicated modes.

The principle of connection directly depends on, so I advise you to think through all the subtleties in advance and purchase best option.

Nuances of preparation

To make the connection less hassle, you should decide on the location of the equipment. Do not be too lazy to check the quality of the walls - the surface must be strong and durable. Ideally, the hood should hang on concrete or brick, and the reliability of fasteners plays an important role.

Properly placed the air cleaner must be installed at a certain level from the hob:

above- for straight hoods it is 75-85 cm, for inclined hoods - 55-65 cm;
over (traditional, induction)- for inclined - 35-45 cm, for straight lines - 65-75 cm.

Carefully observe the lower limits, otherwise the equipment will fail and melt as a result of heating. It is better to adjust the upper ones to the height of the owner or hostess. The width must match.

In general, the installation of the structure can be divided into three stages:

mounting the device to a wall or ceiling, or in a cabinet;
connection to power supply;
connection of the air duct and its outlet to the ventilation duct (for hoods operating on the outlet).

If the hood is recirculating

It does not require an eyeliner to the ventilation shaft, since similar ones are outside the premises. The efficiency of operation depends entirely on the quality of the filters and well-chosen performance.

Installing the system is easy. The device is mounted and connected to electricity. The fixation points on the wall or other surface are pre-marked and drilled with a drill.

If

Here things are a little more complicated, since it is extremely important to correctly place the duct. It can be made on a semi-rigid base, aluminum, plastic. The plastic version will be the most problematic in installation.

For laying PVC ducts, adapters, vertical, horizontal elbows are required(configurations of the letter "G"), ventilation grates, reducers. The latter will be needed when joining round diameter and rectangular shapes.

Most of the parts are included in the kit, but some will have to be purchased separately. Carry out the installation with the help of specialists. Then the system will last a long time and will produce a minimum of noise.

If

Such models are almost completely hidden in the furniture profile. Holes are cut in the shelves for the air duct. This is done after purchasing the appliance, since the placement of the recesses depends on the model of the hood. The structure itself is attached with screws to the walls of the furniture.

Mounting the hood to the wall

Domes are attached to the wall,. If we talk about the fireplace type, air cleaners can consist of two parts. This is the dome and the unit itself with the engine and filters. Both parts are fixed independently of each other, but with a complete coincidence of the outputs. Island varieties are placed on the ceiling with suspension systems included in the kit. Embedded - in the furniture profile.

Before installation, I advise you to check the serviceability of the device - any instruction indicates this. Do not rush to remove all protective films and stickers before you make sure that the air cleaner is working. To do this, put it on a flat surface, connect it to the mains and check it in all operating modes.

If no faults are found, you can proceed with the installation, which is best done together. If you notice extraneous noise, lack of functions, feel free to contact the warranty workshop or the store where you purchased the device.

Most manufacturers equip the kit with a mounting template, where the mounting points are marked.. It can be leaned against the wall and all marks can be transferred.

If there is no template, proceed as follows:

on the wall we indicate the distance between the holes for mounting. To do this, the device is applied to the surface;
we apply markings, taking into account the height of the appliance in relation to the hob;
drill holes. Their diameter must match the diameter of the dowels;
insert dowel plugs into the holes;
hang the body on the dowel nails. I advise you to check the installation of equipment horizontally;
then a connection is made to the ventilation duct and electricity;
after completion of work with the main system, the installation is completed by installing the duct ducts.

Known nuances

The described installation method is good if the house has even walls and nothing interferes with the work. If a gas pipe runs near your stove, it will not allow the appliance to be placed close to the wall. In such a situation, craftsmen advise fixing wooden bars on the wall, and the air cleaner itself to them. However, I advise you to refrain from such actions. During operation, there will be problems with cleaning, in general, the design itself is unreliable.

Alternative and more rational option– install equipment behind pipes. To do this, take a screw-stud (plumbing). The stud has a thread for screwing into the wall, a pin for removing the hood at a distance from the wall and a thread with nuts for fixing the body.

Similar items are shown in different sizes and are available for purchase at every hardware store. You can take any suitable option, I will only note that all nuts are designed for an octagonal key. This is a universal solution, more durable than wood, moreover, the metal does not rust and is easy to clean.

If , act like this:

on the shelves of the cabinet, the location of the duct is marked, a hole is cut. It is convenient to do this with a jigsaw with a fine-toothed file. You can take a file for a laminate, it practically does not leave chips;
if desired, the section of the cut can be closed with a C-shaped plastic furniture profile. It is tough and flexible. The second option is very easy to use. Such a profile can be bent at any angle. Rigid ones are heated with a building hair dryer. The profile is fixed with glue or liquid nails. Excess can be cut off with a file with a fine tooth;
then the process is repeated on all shelves, the cabinet is hung in place;
the built-in hood is fixed with screws. After that, you can start working with the duct.

The nuances of connecting to the duct

They require the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature will be discharged through this channel, so the choice can be simplified and any option can be used.

In practice, three types are used:

corrugated aluminum sleeve. Features of the material allow you to give the path almost any shape. The corrugation really bends at any angle. You just need to purchase a piece of the required length and place it in the desired shape. However, the air flow will cause resonance, noise. The second minus is the ribbed surface, fat, dust likes to settle in recesses and recesses, they create obstacles for air flow. Difficulty cleaning may occur;
round plastic air duct (PVC). Round polymer pipes are very easy to use. I have already noted that the structure is assembled using shaped elements - couplings, roundings, elbows, adapters, bends. The elements are connected to the pipe by extensions, all joints are treated with sealant. The system is quiet. Due to the smooth inner walls, there will be no obstacles for the movement of air masses. The duct is easy to clean. Minus, perhaps, one - a somewhat problematic assembly;
square plastic duct. The only difference is the rectangular section. This option allows you to save usable space, is well camouflaged behind hanging, stretch ceilings, plasterboard partitions. Here adapters are necessarily used for joining round and square sections.

The indicated materials differ in price. Polymer ducts will cost more. However, it's worth it, as you'll get more efficient airflow and less cleaning headaches. The cross section of the pipes depends on the diameter of the exhaust outlet.

But, in the case of polymers, there are several additional nuances: if the ventilation system is located directly above hob, docking with the hood is carried out through adapters, which are fixed both on the device and on the vent. Connecting knees will help get rid of corners.

Nevertheless, plastic varieties have a more attractive appearance and can be safely placed on top of kitchen cabinets.

Features of fastening the corrugation to the ventilation system and exhaust hood

Corrugation is more often in demand when installing air ducts in a cabinet. There are no particular difficulties with laying, and the material is quite affordable, it bends superbly, incl. in corner zones, which eliminates the need to use adapters.

Before installation, the corrugated duct must be straightened. So you somewhat smooth out the main drawback of such systems. This will significantly reduce the noise generated during operation of the device. In order for the choice of material to be correct, consider the diameter of the exit hole of the hood. The corrugation is attached to the device with a clamp of a suitable size, and to the ventilation - with a grate.

Features of additional materials:

clamps can be plastic or metal;
ventilation grille must be special. In the upper part of the product there should be a hole for fixing a round corrugated pipe. Below - a grate for removing air in the process of natural circulation, when the hood is not active;
Please note that only gratings with a ledge are suitable for securely fixing the duct. These are special bumpers located around the hole. It is here that the corrugation is put on, after which the collar clings. The same principle applies when connecting the duct to the device. There is also a ledge on the hood, on which the corrugation should be put on. The joint is tightened with a clamp.

I note that during operation, fat, soot and soot accumulate in air ducts of any type. All of these need to be cleaned regularly. Frequency - about twice a year. In addition to cleaning, you can resort to a complete replacement. Be that as it may, dirt cannot be left inside. Air movement will be hindered and the risk of fire will increase significantly.

never deliberately reduce the diameter of the duct. If necessary, use an adapter, reducing the dimensions to a minimum;
If ventilation ducts can only be laid through the attic or other rooms, there will be a preliminary cooling of the air. Condensation will occur in some parts of the system. During operation, the traction force will decrease, mold may appear. Therefore, it is necessary to overlay the system with thermal insulation materials.

How to choose the section of the duct

If we talk about round plastic or corrugated pipes, they are presented in three sizes: 100/125/150 mm in diameter. There are much more rectangular varieties - from 55 * 110 * 750 mm to 60 * 204 * 1000 mm.

Round ducts are selected so that the diameter of the outlet of the hood matches the diameter of the pipe. It is undesirable to put an adapter on the outlet or reduce the diameter. This will reduce the effectiveness of air purification. When selecting the section of rectangular pipes, they are guided by the cross-sectional area of the outlet pipe. Joints are realized through a suitable adapter.

How to connect the hood to the ventilation system

Installation features depend on the way the equipment is connected to the ventilation. You can arrange an exit to the common house mine or immediately outside the premises. The latter option provides a significant simplification of installation.

However, main part. But there are pitfalls here. With the accumulation of soot in ventilation pipe there may be a violation of air exchange in other apartments or the formation of an air plug that blocks the outflow of air. In addition, most of the grate is closed by an air duct, which leaves minimal conditions for normal air exchange in the kitchen.

To prevent the hood from becoming an obstacle to natural ventilation, you can proceed as follows:

we take a special grate for hoods, a tee and a check valve;
we attach a tee to the grate;
we attach an air duct to the lower entrance of the grill;
we put a non-return valve on the free outlet so that its slats are locked when the air flow passes from the pipe;
the bottom line is that when the hood is working, the valve petals are bent. Air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the open outlet of the tee and the grate. When the device rests, the valve plates unfold, air goes into the ventilation system.

If you are not sure that you are ready to regularly clean the entire system, stop at a direct outlet outside the room. You will need to drill a hole in the outer wall with a diamond drill. Outside, a safety grille with a check valve is installed, inside - an air duct. The cracks are filled with mortar. An extractor is attached to the system. IN special occasions connection is carried out in a separate ventilation duct.

I note that the anti-return or non-return valve is a light metal or plastic plate. It is movably fixed on two sections of the pipe (bottom and top). The valve petals are supported by a spring. While the air cleaner is not working, the plates block the access of outside air. When the device is in operation, the air flow bends the plates forward by depressing the spring.

How to mount the system on the wall

Regardless of the variant of the liner, you should think about how to fix the duct on the wall.

There are several rules at work here:

on plastic air ducts special fastenings are provided. They represent a kind of latches;
the latches are first fixed to the wall with dowels;
select the mounting step taking into account the curvature of the track. As a rule, a step of 50-60 cm is optimal;
pipes are forcefully inserted into ready-made latches;
if corrugation is used, fixation is carried out using clamps. It is permissible to use special plastic puffs of large size.

You can use the same method to mount the structure on the ceiling. If you need to maintain a certain distance, use perforated hangers from drywall systems. They are fixed on the ceiling, and to them - the air duct itself.

Connecting the hood to the mains

In fact, this stage can be implemented in several ways. But, only a specialist can install and connect the device to the mains. Almost all hoods are powered by 220-230 V, 50 Hz. This allows you to power them from a regular outlet.

To avoid being hit electric shock socket must be earthed. This will also help keep all warranty obligations. If the apartment has old wiring and good skills, you can throw the ground wire yourself. I note that it cannot be attached to heating or plumbing pipes.

This is done as follows:

on the shield you should find a bus with attached wires. You can also find a pipe with a twisted or welded stranded wire;
they connect their own stranded wire to these devices, without discarding those that already exist;
for the grounding to work properly, the wire section must be 2.5 mm. The conductor is taken from a copper stranded, with a non-combustible sheath.

To provide protection against voltage surges, the connection is made through an additional circuit breaker (mains filter). To protect all equipment, I recommend spending money on a stabilizer. A good electrician will install it in a matter of hours.

If the hood without a plug

Some devices are supplied without a plug at the end.. Their cords end with wires. This is done so that the user himself can decide how best to connect the equipment. Several options are possible here. The first is the connection to the wires of the plug and the subsequent power supply from the outlet.

The second is through terminal blocks (Wago). Their number is taken according to the number of wires. Identical wires from the hood and shield are connected in one terminal block. For example, grounding with grounding (yellow-green wire), phase with phase (there may be different colour), zero with zero (blue or blue wire). The third option is connection through the terminal block.

Connection through terminal blocks is considered unsafe and is not recommended.. Plus, it's inconvenient. If you need to turn off the device, it will be more difficult to disconnect all the wires.

What should be the outlet for the hood

The main parameter for choosing an outlet for a hood is the degree of its protection. According to electrical safety standards, products marked IP62 and higher are suitable for the kitchen (protection against a strong jet of water is provided).

In addition, I advise you to pay attention to the material. Do not take cheap plastic, it melts more easily and will quickly fail.. Last but not least is the build quality - there should be no backlash, otherwise fat, dust, soot will quickly fill inside. And the last - the mandatory presence of "curtains". So nothing will get inside except for the fork.

To choose the location of the outlet, be guided by the following rules:

the most important thing is to decide at what height and where the device will be placed. It is necessary to build on this;
the minimum distance from furniture (tables, cabinets, etc.) to the power point is 20 cm;
the socket should not be installed close to the hood housing. It is necessary to retreat about 30 cm to the side;
the total power of kitchen appliances should not exceed 4 kW. Otherwise, you will have to draw a separate line for the hood, which will save you from overloads;
the recommended installation height is 1.8-2.0 m from the floor.

note that in the case of a socket, it can be installed in a cabinet after the furniture installation is completed. In this case, the socket must be installed on a fireproof base (these are the rules of the PUE). With island models it is more difficult - here the power is supplied by a direct connection to the wiring, but it is better to arrange a power point under the ceiling. Direct connection is not so secure.

conclusions

In general, the successful connection of the hood is based on three pillars: correct installation to the wall, ceiling or cabinet, correct connection to the ventilation and power supply. It is not so difficult to carry out the installation, but it is better to entrust the work with the electrician and air ducts to professionals.

In most multi-storey buildings there is a stationary system of air vents and ventilation. It has access to each apartment in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Therefore, residents can connect to it and provide their homes with clean air and additional comfort.

The main vent is located in the kitchen. This room is especially actively saturated with harmful, humid air generated during cooking, and fats splashed from frying. It is especially necessary to maintain a favorable microclimate in it, to eliminate unpleasant odors. This role is assigned to a kitchen hood connected to the general ventilation system of the house or operating autonomously.

Manufacturers produce different hoods that are mounted above stoves and hobs and have access to the ventilation system. By purchasing this device, the consumer gets the opportunity to provide installation services by professionals. However, the device can be connected to centralized ventilation with your own hands, knowing the features of these works.

How the hood works

A kitchen hood is a simple construction. It consists of the following parts:

engine;
fan;
cleaning filters.

The principle of operation of the device is to create air draft. It promotes the passage of "dirty" air through the filtration system and cleans it from impurities.

According to the functional features, these devices are of two types.

Circulating hoods absorb kitchen air saturated with harmful components, thanks to the draft generated by the operation of the fans. Passing through the purification system, the air masses return back to the room absolutely clean. Two filters work in the circulation type device: one traps grease and soot, the other odors. The first is made from non-woven or synthetic winterizer fabric. In some models, it is replaced by a metal version. For long-term operation of the device, the filters are periodically changed. This entails additional maintenance costs for the circulation hood and makes it less popular.
A flow device is considered more practical and efficient. During his work, "dirty" air from the kitchen goes outside without returning to the room. It does not use a carbon filter. It is replaced by a special grease trapping element and a layer that protects system parts from dirt and grease. Models where it is not present require special care conditions: they must be cleaned periodically. A household appliance with such an air purification system is the best option for home cooking.

Features of installation of kitchen hoods

The process of installing a kitchen hood with a do-it-yourself connection to the ventilation system depends on the type of device. Manufacturers produce different models:

suspended;

wall;

corner;

embedded;

island.

Each of them can be circulating or flowing.

Installation of a household air purifier for professionals is not very difficult. If you want to connect it with your own hands, the owners of the apartment must take into account important points.

by the most in a simple way connecting the hood to the ventilation outlet is to use a corrugated pipe. It does not suit aesthetes, as it spoils appearance kitchens. During operation, the corrugation makes a lot of noise, which causes discomfort.

Sometimes it is necessary to make changes to the design of the exhaust device on site, taking into account the structural features of stationary ventilation. It may be clogged or damaged due to prolonged inactivity. In this case, you will need the skills of reconstructing household appliances and certain tools.
At self-assembly kitchen hood, it is necessary to take measurements correctly, take into account the height of the ceilings and the dimensions of the room, the location electrical outlet to connect the air cleaner power supply. This will allow you to bring the cone to the vent as accurately as possible.
When installing the air cleaner with your own hands, the owner should be aware that a large number of connections and bends will lead to disruption of the system. An angle of pipe connection over 90 degrees will create additional loads on the device. It may not work properly and fail quickly.

Installation and connection of a kitchen hood to ventilation

The most common option for an air purification device is to purchase and install a wall-mounted device.

On the surface of the wall above hob plates measure the attachment points of the box.

It is important to take into account the generally accepted norms for the location of the device: the distance from the lower level of the exhaust device to the gas stove should be 75 cm, for an electric one - 65 cm.

According to this marking, holes are drilled into which dowel-nails are inserted.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into them through the mounting holes in the box itself, fixing the main device.
Next, an air outlet pipe is installed, combining the hole in the box with the ventilation outlet in the wall. To do this, use a fixing clamp.
All joints are filled with a hermetic composition.

During installation, you must follow the instructions that accompany the device, and take into account the location of the electrical outlet. It may be necessary to equip additional source nutrition.

To prevent the air cleaner from spoiling the interior design of the kitchen, use the built-in installation method. In this case, the device is mounted in a furniture cabinet equipped with doors in accordance with general design facades.

First on the wall according to the norm set height a wooden box is fixed with holes drilled in it for fasteners and the exit of the ventilation pipe (corrugated hose or PVC channel).
The device itself is inserted into it.
A pipe is attached to it and taken out through a hole in the furniture into the ventilation outlet.
A special clamp is usually sold with the hood, which helps to fix the parts. If it's not there, you need to buy it. It is important to take into account the diameter of both elements.
After carrying out and checking the operation of the device, the doors are mounted on the cabinet. They will completely hide the air cleaner and the dirty air outlet system.

Do-it-yourself connection of a kitchen hood to ventilation requires attention and compliance with the requirements of the instructions. These details will create effective system air purification in a residential area.