This is the second parameter in wooden construction, which affects how warm it will be in the house or how durable the log cabin of the bath will be. Of course, the diameter of a log (forest) also significantly affects the cost of a log house due to the price of a tree.

If you have a question, what diameter to choose manufacturing, our answer is simple, the larger the diameter, the better!

Advantages of a large diameter

• When using large diameter logs, fewer logs will be used for felling a log cabin than a log cabin with a smaller diameter of the same height. As an example, let's take a log with a diameter of 20 and 30 centimeters with a difference of 10 cm. The number of logs in a log house can vary by 50%.
• Reducing the number of connections of locks and bowls.
• Increase the width of the groove and, as a result, reduce the thermal conductivity between.
• Displacement of the border of the "freezing" of the log from the entrainment of the thickness of the walls.
• Choosing a diameter of 240 millimeters over the years after shrinkage and shrinkage, this diameter can give a reduction to 220.
• Increase the service life of the lower rims. Sometimes, to solve this problem, the first crowns are cut from larch or a lining board is used.

What diameter to choose?

For ease of perception, we give the diameters of the log and the scope of its application in the construction of log cabins.

• Wood up to 18 cm. Logs of small diameter less than 18 are considered unsuitable for construction and are used only for the construction of gazebos, outbuildings or non-residential buildings. Also from this diameter can be cut down budget bath size 3*3
• 18-19-20-22 cm. Minimum possible diameter. Choppers often call it a "bannik" - it's simple, and a budget option for the manufacture of log cabins of baths chopped into a paw or for country houses from rounded logs. For cutting into a bowl, logs from 20 cm are used.
• 23-24-25-26-28cm. The best option for building a house permanent residence does not require additional insulation. It is worth noting, due to its specifics, Canadian felling is possible from a diameter of 24 or more due to the peculiarity of the bowl.
• 30-32-40. Perfect option, we give this diameter the highest rating.
• The maximum size is 40-50 and more according to experience, this diameter is used mainly in exclusive and elite log cabins and as design solution. For cutting in this diameter, mainly large forests of cedar and larch are used.

I would like to note that these characteristics are more relevant for houses than for baths.

Photo of diameters in a log house.

Photos of log cabins from a log of 18 cm.

Photos of log cabins from logs 18-22 cm.

Photos of log cabins from logs 23-28 cm.

Photos of log cabins from logs 30-35-40 cm.

A house or a bathhouse made of rounded logs (to readers interested in a beam for a bathhouse) is a widespread practice, to the point that you can not know anything about the subject at all, order a construction company on a turnkey basis and get the finished result. But it is unlikely that you would read our articles if everything suited you in this version.

Yes, and we ourselves believe that a good owner will definitely consider it necessary to delve into the subject, learn more about the material- which log is better for a bath, what size, diameter, how they differ, what properties they have. This knowledge is also useful in order to understand what construction is being done from, and to control some parameters or processes. Yes, and after, too - the log house is not to say that it is capricious, but still requires care.

So let's deal with everything, and along the way, you see, and dispel some myths.

Which one is better

I would like to start with the consideration of wood. And not immediately by breed, but for now only with conventional wisdom, What the best wood will be the one that was harvested in the winter.

IMPORTANT! Antiseptics must be distinguished for internal and external work, and not to be confused with each other. It is worth processing the log after laying it, and with the part that will be inaccessible in the future, they do this - they do not impregnate the tree with an antiseptic, but a jute gasket (for example).

What breeds are suitable for felling

As already mentioned, for the most part, these will be conifers breeds. It is them that you will most often meet on the market and in the offers of construction companies.

Of course, there are many taiga in Russia, but the main reason will still be strength And resistance to decay due to resins. And, of course, trunk straightness- it is higher in conifers than in deciduous ones. All this applies not only to the cheap pine and spruce mentioned above, but also to the more expensive species - larch and cedar. You can also offer fir.

From deciduous we would call oak, birch, aspen, alder And linden. But only it has sufficient strength and resistance to external influences. And he is very expensive.

Since we are talking about a bath, where heat softens the resin of conifers and causes it to flow to the surface, there are two options: either partially use hardwoods to build a steam room, or to sheathe a steam room from coniferous hardwood.

Spruce has less resin and is lighter than pine. Larch and - noble species. Larch is not afraid of water, it only makes it stronger.

BY THE WAY! As for the cedar, you should not flatter yourself - this is not at all the tree from which King Solomon built. Here you will find not Lebanese cedar, but Russian ... cedar pine. That's what we call "cedar".

Whom to choose? Focus on budget. If it allows, take a larch, if not, then it will go. Although ... I would like to advise not to trust myths too much - under adverse conditions, larch may well rot, and under favorable conditions, it can stand for decades.

And be warned that round log, into which cone-shaped trunks turn, over time can present many unpleasant surprises. Especially from the same larch. If a log is taken atmospheric drying, then it very often begins to lead over time. It can twist, bend, or just go into deep cracks.

This can be avoided only if you take trunks that have been subjected to heat treatment. It is of two types - ordinary And chamber. In the first case, uniform shrinkage is achieved, but with the preservation of the resin.

The second lasts much longer, and the output is wood with evaporated resin, which does not no shrinkage, no torsional deformation, buckling, no cracking. All this is extremely valuable, but only the price of such wood is too big.

Dimensions, diameter

Before naming the dimensions of a log for a bath, let's briefly go over what we know about the trunks. First, they tend thin out closer to the crown. Therefore, the top diameter will be smaller than the bottom diameter of the cut.

And for even laying preferably cylindrical rather than cone-shaped. Therefore, of the three types of trunk processing - rounding, planing And scraping, we get the most equal only in the first case, the minimum - in the third, and the second - something in between.

In this case, the cylindering is given cheaper everything, as it is produced on machines, and the rest is connected with manual labor. Manual labor is more expensive than machine labor. But is a rounded log ideal during operation?

There is nothing wrong with the operation itself, and it gives a form that is ideal for construction.

IMPORTANT only that the wood itself does not have defects and is properly dried. In this case, everything will be fine.

Planed option has one nuance: after all, when laying logs in a wall, one should adhere to the Gostov rule, according to which for each running meter a taper of 1 cm is allowed. (Let us explain: taper is a change in diameter.)

At scraped there is no need to wait for the option of complying with GOST in terms of fluency. Yes, and all the flaws remain there - changes in thickness are possible in places where branches grow, and the curvature of the trunk is also not eliminated.

It is clear that the first and second options should be preferred, but not the third.

Now about homogeneity logs. There is also a rule for this:

ATTENTION! The permissible difference in the diameters of crowns used in construction should not exceed 30 mm.

That is, it does not matter if your diameters are large or small, the main thing is that they do not differ much from each other. Otherwise strength structures will be questionable.

As for the dimensions, the linear dimensions depend on project and from climatic conditions terrain where the bath will be. It should also be taken into account seasonality its use - thinner logs will fit for a summer bath than for an all-weather one.

If the task is to do at all light summer building- you need to take the material with a diameter up to 18 cm. And it is also useful in all-season baths to create partitions.

More solid summer(!) bath can be made of logs with a diameter 18-22 cm.

For all-season bath suitable diameters from 22 to 28 cm. Large numbers are applicable where we are talking about objects of a large area or climatic zones with very low temperatures, where logs can be up to 36 cm in diameter (at -45 degrees, that's it).

How many pieces do you need

There is nothing difficult in the task of calculating how many logs you need for a bath. Let's describe the solution step by step:

1. We look at the plan () and write out the lengths of all the walls. If you take a smaller diameter for the partition, then count the partitions separately.
2. Add up the lengths of the walls. The resulting figure is the total length of one conditional crown.
3. Decide what diameter the logs will be.
4. The height of the bath is included in the project. Divide the height by the diameter of one crown. The resulting figure is the number of crowns.
5. We multiply the length of the conditional crown by the number of crowns. We get the total length of all logs.
6. The length of one standard rounded log is 6 meters. Divide the resulting length of all logs by the length of one log. The final figure is the amount of material to be purchased.
7. Gables are considered in a similar way.

Bath from large and huge logs

Baths from large and huge logs, we would refer to design projects. Because there is clearly not so much a construction need as aesthetic preference. The owner of such a bath obviously likes fabulous, epic times when heroes walked the earth 🙂 And indeed the building will inspire just such feelings, even if we are talking about a bath.

Note, our opinion is that this idea has little functional meaning and often causes critical reviews, due to the inappropriate destruction of valuable ancient trees.

It would be nice if the project was done by a professional, because it is he who will have to find the perfect ratio between the dimensions of the bath itself and the diameter of the logs. Because not grotesque proportions are sweet to the eye.

A tree from which crowns with a diameter of more than 30 cm are made must grow for three hundred years, no less. Such logs for a bath need to be selected piece, sometimes designers deliberately use barrels without rounding - this enhances the feeling of antiquity and fabulousness. However, laying them in a log house will require great skill from the builders. In most cases, the choice is between cedar And larch.

In general, this is a wonderful and expensive undertaking, which is worth implementing on a large plot with a good landscape design. Or better yet, maybe not at all.

lower crown

Of course, in one article the specifics wooden construction it is unlikely that it will be possible to somehow reveal it, but the fact that the lower log in the bathhouse differs from subsequent logs is worth mentioning.

• First, it is made by several more all other crowns in the log house.
• Secondly, it does not fully round shape in section. In order to have a complete fit to the foundation, it is cut off from below edging, whose width must not be less than 15-20 cm. The second edging is cut from the inside of the room and has similar dimensions.

Outside, the crown is desirable to protect low tide, which will not allow moisture precipitation to fall on it.

Treatment inside the bath

The log house needs protection from all sides, but from the outside it is simpler, more precisely, there are simply no restrictions that operate inside, since we are talking about a bath. The fact is that the compounds that should be used for processing are often poisonous, especially for antiseptic impregnations. And the bath is hot and humid, so the substances with which the logs are impregnated will enter the air that you breathe, which surrounds your skin.

Therefore, now we will only talk about the permissible processing of logs inside the bath. However, it will vary depending on the location. So for a dressing room or hallway there are no restrictions on the use of poisonous antiseptics. The rest room can also be processed by them.

ADVICE! Choosing an antiseptic for internal works, check with the seller or Google that we are talking about a bath.

IN washing you should use formulations that are not afraid of water, and most antiseptics are water-soluble.

IN steam room you can use bleach based on bleach - it will lighten the surface of the wood and serve. You can use the steam room only after the smell of bleach has disappeared.

In the future, you can do a simple moisture protection, because mold settles on wet wood. For moisture protection, use compositions based on oil and / or wax, or Finnish acrylic varnishes for the sauna, to which they add antiseptics acceptable for the steam room.

Seams can be filled sealant for wood, and the very surface of the logs is simply grind, to reveal a beautiful "moiré" texture. Painting is acceptable almost everywhere, but in the steam room you should use only those paints that are intended for it. In the sink, paints suitable for bathrooms will do. About the paints for the bath with us.

What to caulk

The idea of ​​caulking a log bath suggests that not all bath owners are familiar with modern means sealing joints (or do not consider them the best). Traditional the methods, of course, are time-tested, but they are very laborious and require periodic labor-intensive renewal, since the log house is constantly slowly changing its dimensions during the first 20 years of life.

Concerning materials, then it is usually used for caulking moss, tow, jute and linen. However, below we will provide a link to the video of the master, who categorically does not advise caulking with jute, because it picks up moisture well. He considers lnovatin to be the optimal material. Moss is traditional, but not common everywhere.

Tow is of different quality. The one that is worse has inclusions of all sorts of straw. Masters also do not recommend using it, because part of it will crumble over time. Good quality linen tow is an excellent material for caulking.

Lnovatin- a quilted cloth, somewhat reminiscent of jute, but differing from it in quality. It is convenient for work and is not inferior to tow in terms of heat-insulating properties.

/ How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

A real Russian banya was built from wood, which has not lost its relevance in modern conditions. High environmental friendliness, healthy indoor climate, excellent appearance are the main advantages of such projects. In order for the bath to warm up well and retain heat for a long time, be comfortable, functional and inexpensive, it is necessary to carefully consider the choice of building materials, especially the size and diameter of the logs.

Factors affecting the choice of the diameter of logs for a bath

The production of a log cabin for a bath involves cutting a groove in each log. If you make it too deep, the material consumption and the number of crowns will increase. With shallow grooves, there is a risk of a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics. Therefore, when choosing wood and calculating the depth of cut, the following criteria are taken into account:

• The temperature in the region of installation of the structure in winter time. Depending on the place of installation, in the cold season, the temperature varies from -10 to -45 degrees, so the diameter of the log can be from 180 to 360 mm. The most popular is wood with a cross section of 200 to 250 mm.
• When using the bath only in the summer, in spring and autumn, the thickness of the logs can be reduced. To heat and maintain the optimum temperature, a thickness of 180 mm is enough.
• The dimensions of the building also affect the choice of material. The larger the planned bath, if available attic floor rest rooms, terraces, the diameter of the material increases.
• Humidity building material also affects the choice. For logs of natural drying, harvested in summer, shrinkage can be up to 150 mm. Baths made of rounded logs will decrease in height by no more than 30 mm. Accordingly, the thickness of the wood is also calculated.

When harvesting wood and sawing a groove, certain rules also apply. The width of the groove varies from 60 to 70% of the diameter of the building material. The rise of each crown is performed by 75% of the diameter, respectively, the depth of the groove should be 25%.

Requirements for wood for the construction of baths

In order to get a log house for a bath of the best quality, winter wood is purchased, with humidity indicators at the level of 10-12%. good option will be the use of rounded material that does not shrink. When calculating the diameter, it is desirable to take into account the requirements of regulatory documents. Determining the section of logs at various conditions operation:

• For year-round use, the thickness of the forest varies from 240 to 360 mm when installed in regions with a temperate and cold climate.
• The construction and operation of baths with winter temperatures below -30 degrees will be possible when using logs of 250 mm or more.
• The installation of a small building used in the warm season is made of a material with a section of 180-240 mm.

The use of these standards allows you to get a high-quality design and not overpay for the material. If desired, the dimension of the logs can be increased, achieving an attractive appearance and design. But it is not recommended to build a bath from a forest whose thickness is less than the minimum allowable. For warming up interior spaces you will have to spend a lot of energy, and heat leakage will adversely affect the quality of bath procedures.

Wood is one of the most common building materials on earth, dating back centuries. Houses, baths, churches are built from wood, elite cottages and temporary buildings are erected. The ubiquity and availability of wood provide this material with increased attractiveness in the eyes of developers.

Our portal has already told in detail, and. We continue the series of articles we started.

So, from our material you will learn:

• How to build warm and comfortable logs.
• How to calculate the required wall thickness.
• What features you need to pay attention to when choosing the width of the groove.
• What are the types of cutting.
• What nuances you need to know before starting construction log house.

Calculation of the thickness of the walls of the log house and the diameter of the log

Will it be warm in a wooden house if the diameter of the logs is 25, 30, 35 or more cm. This is one of the main questions that any developer who wants to build a house from a debarked or rounded log should ask himself. Agree that it is unreasonableif it later turns out that the thickness of the walls is not enough to comfortably survive the harsh winter. Insulating the house from the outside or from the inside is also not an option: all the aesthetics of the log will disappear. It remains to intensively heat the log house and increase energy costs or pre-calculate the sufficient thickness of the walls in relation to the region of residence.

In one of our past articles, we have already described in detail for a stone house. At first glance, it seems that it is easy to make a calculation for a log house - you need to find out the required normalized thermal resistance of the walls (R) in your region of residence. To do this, we find this data on the Internet. For example, for simplified calculation(for Moscow and the Moscow region) we take R = 3.0 (m² * ° С) / W.

Now we need to find out the actual value of the heat resistance of a wall made of a log of a certain diameter. After that, we will be able to find out (based on the calculation) whether the heat transfer resistance meets the standards. To do this, use the following formula:

R= d/λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W/(m·°C).

This is where the first pitfall lies. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (λ) is presented in the following table:

As you can see, it contains three values. Which one to take, and what do “normal” and “wet” conditions mean?

Hermes-sz FORUMHOUSE user

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material (including insulation) largely depends on its humidity. And the operational humidity of the material depends on the climatic zone and the mode of use of the room.

For example, the thermal conductivity of pine and spruce (in a dry state) across the fibers (thermal energy from a wooden house goes out across the log ) is 0.09 W/(m °C). Under normal operating conditions (A) and during operation in a humid area (B), the thermal conductivity of the material increases and amounts to 0.14-0.18 W/(m °C).

If the material is waterlogged, its coefficient of thermal conductivity increases, and the thermal resistance of the structure decreases. That's why, for an approximate calculation let's take the following value: the material of the walls is pine, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material (the average value under normal operating conditions) is 0.15 W/(m °C).

Most often, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of materials and heaters is indicated in a dry state, i.e. obtained from laboratory tests that differ from actual operating conditions. This must be remembered when making an independent calculation.

So, we figured out the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the tree. It remains to choose the thickness of the wall for which you want to calculate. And here lies the second pitfall. The logs are stacked on top of each other, i.e. there is a groove. Moreover, depending on the diameter of the log (D), the requirements of the customer, the width of the groove (H) changes, and hence the actual width of this node in relation to the thickness of the log. This relationship is shown in the following figure.

It can be seen that with the same diameter of logs, depending on design features junction of logs, the width of the groove may vary. Therefore, it is impossible to simply substitute the thickness of the selected log into the above formula. We need some common denominator that can be used for calculation. To solve this problem, we will use the experience of the user of our portal with the nickname zaletchik.

zaletchik FORUMHOUSE user

I want to live in a log house. There is no gas at the site, and it is not expected. Region of residence - Moscow region. This means that the issue of reducing heating costs is acute. I am going to heat the house with a diesel-fueled boiler. These input data forced me to study the thermophysical properties of the log house.

At first zaletchik calculated thermal characteristics by calculating the average value of the thickness of the enclosing structure. This approach was not entirely correct, because. heat losses were considered directly proportional to the wall thickness. As a result of brainstorming and communication with FORUMHOUSE users, zaletchik made a better calculation.

zaletchik

For a correct calculation of the thermal conductivity of the walls of a log house, I calculated the thickness of a log house made of timber, which has the same thermal insulation properties as a log house made of a log of a certain diameter (D).

Leaving beyond the scope of the article the details of the calculations, which can be found in the topic, let's immediately move on to the obtained coefficients that we need for the calculation.

For different values ​​of ε (H/D ratio of groove thickness to log diameter) the corresponding values ​​of μ (Heff*D the ratio of the thickness of the beam to the diameter of the log having the same heat transfer properties). The results are summarized in a table.

For clarity, consider the following example. Let's say the diameter of the log used in the construction of the log house is 45 cm. The width of the groove is 23 cm. Hence: ε = 23/45 = 0.5. Now we find in the table the value of μ corresponding to the received figure. This is 0.83. Next, we find the thickness of the wall made of timber, in relation to the diameter of the log, which have the same heat-conducting properties: 0.83 * 45 = 37.4 cm. Convert to meters - 0.374 m.

R = d/λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W/(m·°C). In our version, pine logs are 0.15 W/(m °C).

R = 0.374/0.15 = 2.49 (m²*°С)/W

Or, you can use this formula:

R = μD/λ, where:

μ - coefficient, taken from the table above;

D - log diameter in m;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.15 \u003d 2.49 (m² * ° C) / W

One of the factors determining the heat resistance of walls is the diameter of the log and the type of wood.

Earlier we indicated that for Moscow and the Moscow region R = 3.0 (m²*°С)/W. Based on the result obtained, for walls made of pine logs, R = 2.49 (m² * ° C) / W. Those. the wall does not reach the regulated value of heat resistance. You can increase the diameter of the log or choose another wood - cedar pine. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material (leave the log diameter and groove width unchanged) is 0.095-0.10 W/(m °C).

We make a calculation.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.10 \u003d 3.74 (m² * ° C) / W

That is, the norm for the actual heat transfer resistance is exceeded.

You can go the other way and use a different formula to find out the required diameter of the log from the ratio: the width of the groove is half the diameter of the log.

D = Rtp*λ/0.83, where:

Rtp - regulated thermal resistance of the wall;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood;

We do the calculation for the pine.

D \u003d 3.0 * 0.15 / 0.83 \u003d 0.54 m.

Using this technique and "playing" with different values ​​- changing the diameter of the log, the width of the groove, wood - you can make an independent calculation and choose the optimal thickness of the wall of a log house.

zaletchik

My great-grandfather and grandfather were specialists in the construction of log cabins, logging and woodworking. From them I learned about the required groove width of 1/2...2/3 of the log diameter.

Also, the thermal efficiency of a log wall is affected not only by the width of the groove, but also by the profile of the log - its cross section: round or so-called. semi-log, hewn on both sides - gun carriage. By cutting wood, we reduce the heat resistance of the wall, because. the log in the wall works with all its section.

Of course the results this simplified calculation indicative. Most of the heat loss in the house occurs through windows, ventilation system, roof and foundation. Those. warm wooden house is a balanced system where all nodes work in close cooperation and correspond to each other. It makes no sense to make walls from logs with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 meters and choose a wide groove, if the house is blown through the cracks, A corners freeze through.

Log cabin features

To choose best option felling a log house and thereby making it warm, you need to understand what options for felling exist and how they differ from each other. First you need to define such concepts as cutting and crown.

Hermes-sz

A cut is a connection of various wooden parts of a log house to each other.

With proper cutting, the loads are evenly redistributed between the logs. To do this, all parts in contact must fit snugly against each other. Also, moisture should not accumulate in these places, which over time can cause wood decay.

Crown- This is a log house, consisting of four logs laid in a horizontal plane. At the corners, the crown is connected by a notch. In the process of building a house, the crowns are stacked on top of each other - a wall is obtained.

It should be remembered that the number of crowns depends on the diameter of the log and the width of the groove, which affects the consumption of material, and therefore the final price and thermal properties of the log house. For example, to build a wall 3 meters high from a log with a diameter of 25 cm and 40 cm, a different number of crowns will be required. When building a house from a log of a larger diameter, the number of cuttings, locks, and interventional joints is reduced. Those. places that can subsequently be blown through, which will lead to heat loss.

When choosing a log for a log house, it is necessary to strike a balance between the diameter of the log, its cost (the price for the material) and the price for working with such a log.

It is physically more difficult for craftsmen to work with a log of large diameter. It may also require the use of special equipment - a crane.

In addition, when choosing a debarked log as a building material, we remember such a parameter as taper.

Escape- the difference in the thickness of the log in the ratio of the diameter of the butt and the top. A debarked log that has not undergone machine processing, unlike rounded logs, cannot be completely even. Its lower part (especially with a large log length) is always thicker than the top. To make the wall smooth, when building a chopped house, the craftsmen, when laying crowns, alternate logs of different thicknesses.

The cutting itself is usually divided into two types:

1. No residue (in the paw).
2. With the rest (in the bowl).

Cutting without a trace or in a clean corner, involves the maximum use of the entire length of the material.

With such a felling, a right angle is obtained, which increases the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house and reduces the consumption of logs. But, based on practical experience, we can say that this type of angle is prone to freezing. To avoid this, back in the old days, the corners of a house cut down “in the paw” were sheathed with overhead boards, or, alternatively, the house was subsequently lined with bricks. This prevented freezing and blowing corners.

Cutting with residue- more expensive, but also more heat-efficient option. Because the ends of the logs protrude at the corners of the house, this node is more protected from blowing, pouring rain and freezing.

Leaving all the diversity outside the scope of this article various kinds felling, we will focus on the key features of the three main types of felling. This:

• Russian felling;
• Canadian felling;
• Norwegian felling.

Traditionally in our country wooden houses built from round logs. A semicircular groove is made along the log. The corner lock is made by cutting into the “oblo” into the bowl. The name comes from the word "blank", i.e. round. The bowl can be positioned up or down.

If the bowl is located downwards (cutting the bowl “in a fold”), then such a connection is considered more moisture resistant, and the log is better preserved.

When choosing this type of felling, one nuance must be taken into account.

Hermes-sz

The main disadvantage of Russian felling is that the logs dry out along and across the fibers differently. As a result, after shrinkage, the logs do not sit tightly enough in the log house.

With a decrease in the diameter of the log, the shape of the connecting bowls changes. The bowls open and from semicircular become oval. Cracks appear. As a result, the log house has to be caulked again. In addition, open insulation is exposed to adverse atmospheric phenomena. It is saturated with water, and the logs may begin to rot.

This disadvantage is devoid of a log house made in Finnish. The principle is the same as in the Russian felling, except that in this version the interventional groove is made with a smaller radius (oval). Thus, the upper log rests on the lower log only at the edges (undercut).

As a result, when the logs shrink, the edges of the interventional groove do not open, the logs sit tightly, there are no cracks, and the insulation is not affected by wind and rain.

Norwegian felling. Traditionally, a log house in Norwegian is considered to be a log gun carriage, although the main difference is the type of lock.

Having decided on the wall material for the log house of the future bath - a rounded log, then you need to choose it suitable diameter.

Of course, each project is individual based on the needs and goals, but the most frequent choice falls on log with a diameter of 200 mm.

There are good reasons for the popularity of this diameter:

• Sufficient wall thickness to retain heat. Wall insulation is not necessary, more important is competent and thorough caulking.
• Such a diameter "eats" the internal space less. Even in the most modest in size, the bath will be quite spacious.
• Not the largest weight and volume affect the cost of delivery, the speed of assembling a log house, lower foundation costs.
• Usually a bath does not involve a daily firebox, unlike a house for permanent residence. Every time in winter it is necessary to heat a frozen log house, which can be done faster with a log of a smaller diameter.
• Again, unlike at home, the bath does not need to accumulate heat in the walls. The bathing process rarely takes more than a few hours. The accumulation of heat in the bath is required not from the walls, but from the device of the furnace (fireclay bricks, stones).
• In most cases, the steam room and sinks are sheathed from the inside, so there is no point in a log of large diameter.
• The 200th diameter already looks quite solid and solid, but still saves the budget due to the smaller log volume in the log house.
• Perfectly straight and even trees do not exist in nature. If you adhere to strict requirements, it is not easy to select material for the production of large diameter logs without any flaws. On the contrary, there is plenty of material for a log of a smaller diameter, and therefore prices are often set at a discount.

The price of a rounded log with a moon groove:

Attention! Especially for those who want a log house, but who are embarrassed by the need to wait for significant shrinkage and shrinkage, we produce log cabins from our dry logs chamber drying.

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 p.m., m 3	Width thermal groove S, mm	Width jute, mm	working height h, mm	Cost per 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Loading is free.						Are you offered cheaper?
180	0.0254	100	100	150	8900
200	0.0314	100	100	173	8900
220	0.038	110	110	191	9000
240	0.0452	120	120	208	9300
260	0.0531	130	130	225	9100
280	0.0615	140	140	243	9100
300	0.0707	150	150	260	9300
320	0.0804	160	160	277	9300

Rounded log 3rd grade for only 6,500 rubles. for m 3. What is the 3rd grade?

The price of a rounded log with a Finnish groove (Finnish profile):

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 p.m., m 3	Width thermal groove S, mm	working height h, mm	Cost per 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Chamber drying, antiseptic, packaging and screed services on request. Loading is free.					Are you offered cheaper?
200	0.0314	140	143	9300
220	0.038	152	159	9400
240	0.0452	174	165	9700
260	0.0531	186	182	9500
280	0.0615	186	209	9500

The price of rounded logs with tongue-and-groove profile (thorn-groove):

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 p.m., m 3	Width thermal groove S, mm	working height h, mm	Cost per 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Chamber drying, antiseptic, packaging and screed services on request. Loading is free.					Are you offered cheaper?
200	0.0314	100	173	9100
220	0.038	110	191	9200
240	0.0452	120	208	9500
260	0.0531	130	225	9300
280	0.0615	140	243	9300
300	0.0707	150	260	On request
320	0.0804	160	277	On request

* The price is given taking into account the cutting of a set of rounded logs for a log house or a bath according to the project, with each item marked with a unique plastic tag.

** The price may change upwards depending on the presence of a large amount of production waste, the presence of bowls at an angle of 45° and 60°, the presence of a non-standard groove.