how to cut expanded clay blocks?

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8 (115658) 8 15 115 5 years

do they get drunk? we cut them with an ax
Well, if you want it beautifully - probably with a stone disc. Stone after all) Big flex.
I do not advise a hacksaw, you will dull instantly. But if you don't mind..

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7 (92208) 34 176 787 5 years

Cutting large-format wall blocks is an inevitable process in the construction of walls. It is necessary to cut blocks during the construction of window and door openings, gables, and in the process of erecting a solid wall, cutting is indispensable. Various tools are used for cutting, and which tool is suitable for what depends on the type of blocks.

Expanded clay concrete hollow blocks can be cut with a grinder (angle grinder) with a cutting wheel diameter of 230mm. The cutting wheel must be metal segmented with diamond coating on the cutting part. If you use a non-segmented cutting wheel, then it can shatter during sawing from overheating, this does not happen with a segmented wheel, since the slots in it allow the sectors (segments) of the cutting wheel to deform freely when heated. The disadvantage is that the cut is only 55 mm deep, even if you cut the block from all sides, it will eventually have to be chipped off, but having cuts around the perimeter, this will be quite easy to do. You can insert an ax into the slot and hit it with a hammer, or you can put wooden beam ok and forcefully lower the block onto it with a cut line - a fairly effective way.

It's better to cut expanded clay concrete blocks a DeWalt alligator saw for cutting bricks. DeWalt also has a whole series of alligator saws for cutting foam concrete, bricks and large-format Porotherm ceramic blocks. The DeWalt Alligator will do an excellent job not only with blocks, but also with bricks, so if funds allow, then it is better to purchase it. There are also Russian analogues of such saws, for example, the Perm "alligator" is several times cheaper than Devoltovsky, in terms of professional tool maybe not suitable, but for one house, I think, such a saw should be enough.

Foam concrete blocks can be cut with a special manual hacksaw for cutting foam concrete - a hacksaw with a thick metal blade and carbide tipped teeth (similar to a hacksaw for wood). Such a hacksaw cuts quite well, the only minus is that you will have to cut, or rather, saw, with handles, and this is a decent waste of time and effort, although if there is nowhere to rush ...

The best tool for cutting will also be the DeWalt alligator, but its price greatly limits the purchase of this tool in Russia. Many people adapt to cut foam blocks with Russian “alligators” or simply reciprocating saws, which are several times cheaper than alligators, using special saw blades for cutting foam blocks for cutting (including alligator blades that are ground to the desired type of attachment).

Porotherm-type ceramic porous blocks can only be cut with an alligator saw. A reciprocating saw is unlikely to cope here, but I don’t advise extreme with a grinder - I cut it in a respirator and goggles, in the heat, tin. In principle, you can cut with a grinder, only it will be a very long and tedious process with constant, very accurate chipping of parts that interfere with cutting, plus a huge amount of dust and small fragments flying under clothes and shoes. By the way, the manufacturers of ceramic blocks recommend the “alligator” of the DeWalt company, I think that it is not in vain that they recommend it. The price bites, but the saw is worth it, especially if you are a bricklayer and you need it for work.

If you want to cut the block into two equal parts along the length (width of the wall), and the quality of the cut is not important, for example, for laying floor slabs around the perimeter, then you can not cut the block at all, but simply split it. For these purposes, I used a canvas from an old hacksaw for wood and a hammer. Due to the voids, the block is pricked quite easily, each internal partition is successively broken through, one after the other - as a result, we get two front halves.

In no case do not use a chainsaw to cut blocks, even foam concrete. Not a single chain can withstand, even if you cut foam concrete, and the cutting dust will simply kill the chainsaw mechanism - grains of sand will get into the gearbox, gears and bearings will simply wear out.

take Chieftec, FSP from the middle class, they really showed themselves well and work at the declared power and in some cases even exceed it, and the price is more or less affordable.

Forget about Codegen in general Chinese consumer goods are hollow, the power in them is not true, that's why they cost 10 lats

Maybe the capacitors are dry. From the heat.
It is strange that the plugs were knocked out - there are 2 fuses in the blocks - fusible and semiconductor.

Take it apart and see what burned down - this will give a picture. Yes, and sometimes there are cockroaches in them. They crawl under the board itself, which is screwed to the block body inside it. The contacts close (the high frequency of 20 kHz, at which the unit operates, passes through a cockroach more easily than a 5-Hz network). The insect is fried, the block is burned.

Perhaps the voltage fuse has broken (a green flat disk with contact wires) and closed the circuit - this happens from surges.

When you turn on the vacuum cleaner, when the refrigerator motor turns on, there are interferences above 230 volts in the network.

There are only transformer ribbons yellow there ... Throw out the block. Don't do it. Yourself is more expensive. If you buy the next one, it costs 24 lats. It will be better. Now they all come with improved cooling, blowing from below, and it is quieter, and their pulse shaper chip is more advanced.

It seems to me or is this the most banal charge for a laptop? There are no stopudoff stores

Everest is not quite a power supply, but you can test the heating;)

Technology of installation of window blocks. Installation of plastic windows in expanded clay concrete blocks

House made of expanded clay concrete blocks: step-by-step construction instructions

Perhaps there is not a single family that would not dream of a cozy, warm home. Often dreams are broken about the realities of life related to the material side of the issue. In such cases, you should pay attention to the house of expanded clay concrete blocks. In the construction market, products made from this lightweight concrete have not lost popularity for several decades due to the favorable price-quality ratio. Let us consider in more detail the characteristics of building materials, the technology of working with it. We will figure out how to build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks so that it warms not only us, but also our children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

House made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete - characteristics, advantages, disadvantages

Products made of lightweight concrete, the main filler of which are baked clay pellets, are in high demand in the construction of private houses of small number of storeys, as well as in the construction of country houses and auxiliary buildings. Expanded clay is a lightweight, environmentally friendly, porous and, at the same time, very durable material.

When binding pellets with cement mortar, products are obtained that have many positive aspects:

The advantages that do not affect the quality of work, but improve the mood when purchasing material and during the production of construction activities, include:

• low cost of production. The use of readily available components in the manufacture allows you to maintain a price range affordable for most developers;
• ease of laying. Small dimensions and weight individual elements allow for faster installation.
• increased surface roughness, which improves adhesion with finishing compositions and facilitates cladding work.

Having studied the advantages, we can make a hasty conclusion that a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is ideal. Owner reviews largely confirm this opinion.

But when choosing a building material, you should not turn a blind eye to the shortcomings, which include:

Studying the advantages and disadvantages will help to properly prepare for construction activities.

Calculator of expanded clay concrete blocks for a house

One of the preparatory stages of construction is the design stage. After the development and approval of the project, it is necessary to calculate the need for materials. You can determine the required amount of building material yourself. Take for example cottage from expanded clay concrete blocks with dimensions of 10x20 m and a ceiling height of 3 m.

The calculation can be done in two ways:

• by area;
• by volume.

When calculating the required number of elements according to the first option, we act according to the following algorithm:

1. Determine the total area of ​​the walls. In our case - (10 + 10 + 20 + 20) x3 = 180 m².
2. We calculate the number of units of production per 1 m². For an element with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm, this is 12.5 pieces (1 / 0.4x0.2 \u003d 12.5).
3. We multiply the total area of ​​​​the walls and the quantity by 1 m² - we get the required number of units of production - 180x12.5 \u003d 2250 pieces.

How many expanded clay blocks are needed to build a house

The second calculation option is similar to the first, only when performing calculations, they operate not with area indicators, but with the values ​​​​of masonry volumes and one unit of production.

It should be emphasized that window and door openings are not taken into account in the calculation process. This was done deliberately to take into account the loss of building materials during the work.

We build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Having dealt with the characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of products, having studied the methods for calculating the need for building materials and having made its purchase, you can proceed to construction work. To build a strong and durable house of expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, follow proven technologies.

The general construction algorithm includes:

• foundation construction;
• walling;
• roof arrangement;
• waterproofing, insulation, cladding.

Let's take a closer look at each point.

When choosing the type of foundation, it is first necessary to focus on the structure and composition of the soil, as well as the level of groundwater.

Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Of the variety of foundations for structures made of lightweight concrete, only three types are suitable:

• tape;
• pile;
• slab.

After analyzing the soil at the construction site, you can determine which of the foundations will be preferable. The slab base is justified on unstable soils prone to movement. Due to the large area and increased strength, it is able to compensate for bending loads and prevent cracking of the material during soil shifts. But there is a nuance that you need to know about - the slab base is laborious in arranging.

The pile foundation has many advantages when erected on soils prone to frost heaving. It is also indispensable in cases where it is necessary to build a building on a site with a slope. But pile foundation unevenly distributes the loads arising from soil shifts. Therefore, when choosing a screw structure for a lightweight concrete house, carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Optimal, with a low occurrence of groundwater, is a strip foundation.

It has a number of advantages over other types of bases:

• evenly distributes the load, which prevents the appearance of cracks;
• allows you to independently fill, since large-sized equipment is not required in the process of work;
• allows the arrangement of a full-fledged basement.

How to fill a strip foundation

Work on pouring the strip foundation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Plan the site surface. Perform uprooting of trees and shrubs. Remove small vegetation manually or with chemicals.
2. Mark the base using pegs and string.
3. Dig a trench deeper than the freezing level of the soil. Trim the walls and bottom of the trench.
4. Prepare and install formwork. For formwork, you can use trimming boards or use plywood panels.
5. Pour gravel-sand mixture into the trench. Make a rammer.
6. Assemble the reinforcing frame. The connection of metal bars can be done by welding or binding wire.
7. Prepare concrete mortar according to the recipe. Use for work a concrete solution not lower than grade M400.
8. Pour the finished composition into the trench. Thoroughly tamp the solution to remove air bubbles.
9. Level the surface. Cover with plastic to retain moisture.
10. After the hardening process is completed, remove the formwork.
11. Waterproof the foundation.

After the base has gained strength, proceed to the construction of the box.

Wall masonry

Professionals advise using adhesives when laying expanded clay concrete blocks

Wall construction work two-story house from expanded clay concrete blocks in the same way as country house from expanded clay concrete blocks, follow the general algorithm:

1. Lay the first row. Start laying from the corner zone.
2. Check the levelness with a level.
3. Lay the next row, shifting the elements relative to the lower level by a third or half the thickness.
4. Reinforce masonry every 3-4 rows. Use metal rods or reinforcing mesh for this.
5. Reinforce door and window openings.
6. Carry out the concreting of the armored belt at the upper level to install the roof structure.

Upon completion of work, proceed to the installation of the roof.

Roof arrangement

The roof, like the foundation, is the key to the durability of the structure. Before proceeding with the installation of the roof, consider the design, select suitable material overlap. It is not worth saving when choosing a roofing material.

It is important that it be:

• durable;
• durable;
• resistant to natural factors;
• environmentally friendly.

Arrangement of the roof of the house

To install the roof, prepare the following materials:

• wooden beam 150x150 mm for Mauerlat;
• edged board for lathing;
• roofing material;
• hardware for fastening structural elements.

Guided by the documentation, assemble the frame and secure the roofing material.

Warming of the house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Buildings made of expanded clay concrete need insulation. Developers often have a question about how to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks. To maintain a comfortable microclimate, it is desirable to install thermal insulation both inside and outside. Such an integrated approach to insulation will reduce the level of costs for maintaining a favorable temperature.

How to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside

For external insulation, it is important to choose the optimal heat insulator.

Insulation of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks

The most common heaters include:

• Styrofoam. It is characterized by low price, ease of installation, ease of finishing. Disadvantages - combustibility and damage to the bite

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Do-it-yourself claydite block laying

Hi all! The construction of buildings from expanded clay concrete blocks is similar in technology to the construction of the usual brick, but it also has some features. Next, we will just consider what you should pay attention to during the preparation and laying of claydite blocks with your own hands.

Tools and materials

In the process of construction, in addition to expanded clay concrete blocks (we considered how to choose the right expanded clay blocks here), you cannot do without:

• Tape measure, building level, plumb line, trowel, trowel, jointing and rubber mallet;
• grinders with a circle for stone work;
• containers and shovels or compact concrete mixers for preparing the masonry mixture;
• steel or fiberglass reinforcement either steel / nylon / fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
• personal protective equipment (gloves, goggles, respirator).

In addition to expanded clay concrete blocks, we need brick or concrete M 300 - 350 and reinforcement to form an armored belt, on which we will rely rafter system.

The mixing of the masonry mortar is done in the following proportion - cement (1 part), river and quarry sand (3 parts), water (about 30% of the volume of the dry mix).

Preparatory stage

When developing a construction project from expanded clay concrete blocks, it is necessary to immediately calculate the length of the walls in terms of solid blocks, taking into account masonry joints. The width of the seam horizontally and vertically must be at least 10 mm, this allows you to compensate for errors in the geometry and dimensions of the blocks that are inevitable in the manufacture of this piece material.

Also, at the design stage, the type of blocks is selected - for the main walls of a house of two or three floors, it is better to use solid blocks, a light building can be built from hollow elements. Partition hollow blocks with good sound insulation are ideal for internal partitions.

Please note: if you decide to do without external wall cladding, laying them out of the front expanded clay block, you will need to use special glue, as well as ready-made semi-blocks and other elements for aesthetic masonry, so keep in mind that facing blocks are much less amenable to cutting.

On preparatory stage a scheme for laying expanded clay blocks is being developed - it is customary to use the classic version with a shift of half a block (similar to brickwork), or to shift each subsequent row in one direction by 10 cm.

Technology of laying claydite-concrete blocks

concrete foundation must be fully grasped and held. Before starting masonry work, it must be leveled with a thin-layer concrete screed or bitumen, then lay a double layer roll waterproofing(as roll insulator roofing material can be used) along the perimeter and in the places where partitions are installed. If you are interested in reading how to properly waterproof the foundation, then you can do it here.

Important: the construction of external walls and internal partitions is carried out simultaneously! For cutting blocks, it is most convenient to use a grinder with a stone-cutting disc. It is recommended to prepare the working mixture in small portions in order to avoid a partially set composition - this will negatively affect the reliability of the masonry.

On top of the waterproofing, starting from the corners, lay out the first row of blocks. It is recommended to pre-tighten the cords or mark up according to waterproofing material so that the blocks are located clearly in one line, and all intersections create right angles. Remember to check the correct installation of each block with a small building level. Verification is carried out in all directions.

When laying the second and subsequent rows of blocks, with a shift of half a block or 10 cm, do not forget to control the thickness of the seams, it should not be less than 1 cm.

From the outside of the wall, do the grouting immediately until cement mortar did not grab, and the seams are concave - this will simplify the plastering of the surface.

Masonry is reinforced every four rows. If solid blocks are used, it is most convenient to use a grid. Hollow blocks allow the installation of 10 mm reinforcing bars, while metal reinforcement is more reliable, and the installation of fiberglass rods allows you to do without unnecessary heat loss through the walls in the future. So - do not forget to reinforce, the rows that are above and below the window and doorways.

It is extremely important to carefully check the geometry of the walls after the installation of each block, since once the mortar has set, adjustments cannot be made. When laying, apply the solution with a trowel on the vertical end of the previous block and on the horizontal edge of the bottom row, with a tape one and a half blocks long. Further, the piece element is placed on the solution 5 cm from the end of the previous one, and moves into place with the capture of the working mixture. Expanded clay blocks do not withstand shock loads well, so they should be knocked out at the installation site with a rubber mallet, and not with an ordinary hammer. Excess solution is immediately trimmed neatly.

After the construction of the last row of walls and partitions, an armored belt is mounted, which will evenly distribute the load from the roof onto the block masonry. The reinforcing belt should have a height of 20 cm, and a width - less than the width of the block wall by the thickness of the heat insulator from the outside - concrete and brick are inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to expanded clay concrete. Reinforce brickwork with steel mesh, if selected monolithic concrete for the armored belt, you will need to pre-mount the wooden formwork and fix the wire reinforcement cage.

The technology of building walls from facing blocks has its own characteristics. Such blocks have a strict geometry and a tongue-and-groove connection. Their installation involves the use of special glue - foam, so that the elements fit as closely as possible to each other, and the finished masonry has an aesthetic appearance.

At the plant, it is possible to order semi-blocks, quarter-blocks and additional elements made of expanded clay concrete with a facing layer, including figured ones, for the formation of arches and other structures.

postroju-dom.ru

Expanded clay concrete - advantages and disadvantages, application in construction.

Expanded clay concrete is a unique material that does not rust, burn or rot. But this is in short. In fact, quite a lot can be said about this building material, which I am going to do in this article.

Raw materials for blocks of expanded clay concrete

The composition of expanded clay concrete mainly includes expanded clay - an environmentally friendly raw material, which is a foamed and specially fired clay.

During the manufacturing process, clay, added in the correct ratio, turns into a kind of hardened foam. The baked shell, which covers the formed granule, guarantees the porous material high density and compressive strength. As a result, expanded clay is the main type of coarse aggregates (coarse fractions), the preparation of which is not difficult for a modern manufacturer. How to prepare such a block with your own hands, using the correct proportions, recipes and composition selection? This is a topic for a completely different article.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete, manufactured in accordance with GOST, is superior to conventional lightweight concrete grades both in terms of sound and heat insulation characteristics, as well as in chemical and moisture resistance. But first things first.

In comparison with the use of conventional materials, the use of expanded clay concrete blocks speeds up the time of building walls by 4-5 times. At the same time, the wall requires two times less mortar, plus the mass of products is reduced by 1.5 times, based on square meter high quality concrete masonry.

Expanded clay concrete has a high coefficient of thermal conductivity, which makes it versatile when used in cold and warm climatic conditions. Specialists have repeatedly carried out all kinds of tests of dry expanded clay gravel (aggregate material), which showed the fact that the use of this aggregate, as well as expanded clay itself, can reduce heat loss by 75 percent and not carry out wall insulation with any expensive insulation.

The material is breathable, that is, active air exchange and vapor permeability allows you to regulate and stabilize the level of humidity in the room.

Expanded clay blocks are quite durable, even if no maintenance is carried out. The material does not rust, does not burn, does not rot, and also has low water absorption. It contains, at the same time, positive traits stone and wood, which is a great advantage for those who are going to build a bathhouse, garage, plinth from this material or use it for roofing.

Disadvantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

The disadvantages include the fact that you simply will not find instructions on how to make an expanded clay concrete block with your own hands. In principle, it is possible to do this by obtaining the appropriate technology on the network, including the correct consumption of materials (including the consumption of cement), the final thickness, proportions per 1 m3, a competent recipe, volume fractions, etc. Another disadvantage would be the price per m3. For the same cost (in terms of a cube), you can buy much more bricks with delivery. But here it is worth making a reservation. The fact is that thermal insulation, sound insulation and other indicators of blocks are so superior to brick (both according to reviews on the forums and in practice) that in order to achieve similar indicators, brick wall, you will have to buy much more bricks and build a much thicker wall, much more mass, which will not benefit interior spaces. According to these indicators of expanded clay concrete, it is possible to compare only with the pouring of monolithic walls and monolithic floors with reinforcement (use of armored belt).

Comparison with brick

If we compare expanded clay concrete blocks with bricks, then our material has a lot of advantages. specific gravity cubes of expanded clay concrete blocks are 2.5 times lower than those of bricks. - Vibropressed blocks contain a much smaller amount of cement. - One standard block in its technical specifications able to replace up to seven bricks. - A highly skilled mason can lay three times the volume of a wall from blocks than from bricks per shift.

The environmental properties of the blocks are on the same level as brick ones, that is, the question of whether this material is harmful is not raised. - The cost of work in low-rise construction of a house when using claydite-concrete blocks instead of bricks is reduced by 30-40 percent. - The block is slightly larger than the standard "one and a half" brick, however, such dimensions of the block guarantee the convenience of its storage and transportation, as well as ease of use without the use of special devices and fixtures. brickwork, however, it has noticeably less weight and is characterized by greater convenience. As a result, the construction of block walls is available not only to a professional, but also to a private developer.

Regulatory material requirements

Regulatory requirements for the thermal parameters of the material for the construction of the walls of modern buildings have been increased with the release of SNiP-I-3-79. Design and research institutes urgently began to look for possible solutions, since the new regulations required even from wooden walls be at least half a meter thick. At this stage, the developers came up with the idea of ​​building multi-layer walls, the bearing element in which was a layer of heavy concrete sold in bags. The heat-insulating layer in this project was organic slabs made of polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene, as well as wood concrete. It soon became clear that such walls during operation accumulate a large amount of harmful by-products of the destruction of thermal insulation, as a result of which sanitary conditions and comfort of living deteriorate. Also, the materials used turned out to be short-lived, as a result of which such a wall would have to be repaired after a short period of time, which was explained by the destruction of the thermal insulation layers and, as a result, large heat losses.

The way out of the situation was a house made of expanded clay concrete, which was based on fine-grained expanded clay gravel (5-10 millimeters). The production of reinforced concrete structures is carried out on modern vibratory presses, after which they undergo heat treatment, achieving good thermal insulation and strength. There are through voids in expanded clay concrete blocks, which makes it possible to equip a hidden frame in the body of the wall, thereby increasing bearing capacity. As already mentioned, the blocks are very durable and can be used not only in low-, but also in multi-storey construction. The thermal conductivity of this material is many times less than the thermal conductivity of conventional concrete. At the same time, the cost of the material is much less.

The use of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay blocks are environmentally friendly, architecturally expressive and climate-adapted to Russian conditions. The use of this material is possible without plastering and shading of internal facades, which makes it possible to completely exclude wet processes from construction. The variety of combination textures and shapes of blocks allows the architect to use his imagination to 100 percent. Facades of claydite-concrete buildings do not need external finishing. Wall panels and blocks of decorative type are distinguished by the highest frost resistance, strength and aesthetic surface texture. Experience in the use of blocks has shown that the construction of low-rise buildings from this material does not require special additional design solutions. The variety of shapes and the exact consistency of block sizes make it possible to ideally combine this material with all types of small-piece building materials, metal structures, reinforced concrete products, window and door openings.

More about expanded clay concrete blocks

Unfortunately, the Russian manufacturer does not pay due attention to expanded clay concrete blocks, despite the fact that the material has many more pluses than minuses. According to various estimates, the construction of modern complexes from this material at Russian sites is 7-10 percent of the total. In all other cases, a "flood house" type technology is practiced, that is, floor screed, floors are poured, walls are poured, panels are installed, etc. For comparison, foreign claydite-concrete housing construction occupies 40 percent of the total construction volume. Expanded clay blocks are especially popular in countries such as the Czech Republic, Holland, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, etc. In the Scandinavian countries, this material even has a special name - "bioblocks". Expanded clay concrete is used abroad in projects for the construction of floor slabs, foundations, "monolith" structures, partitions and lintels.

domisad.org

When it comes to installing windows in a honeycomb house, two different approaches to fixing technology collide.

Supporters of polyurethane foam claim that this material is so reliable and airtight that it does not require the use of fittings. Fans of dowels, on the contrary, rely on the mechanical contact of metal and blocks.

The truth, as often happens, is in the middle of polar opinions.

Therefore, we decided to consider in detail the features quality installation windows in aerated concrete and foam concrete walls.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

There is no consensus on this issue. New builders ask when it is possible to install windows in a house made of aerated concrete or foam block. They are given advice one another is more ridiculous. Some argue that cellular blocks have a very large shrinkage and it is possible to install windows only a year after the construction of the box.

Others are trying to bring a “scientific” basis to this statement and argue from three types of shrinkage of gas silicate and foam block. At the same time, all advisers unanimously ignore the data of manufacturers. They clearly state that the natural shrinkage of cellular blocks does not exceed 0.3 mm per 1 meter of the wall in height. Therefore, it is not necessary to talk about its critical impact on window frames. The confusion arises from the substitution of the concepts of shrinkage of lightweight concrete and building settlement.

Deformation settlement of the structure (walls and foundation) does not occur due to the evaporation of moisture from concrete and blocks. It is caused by uneven subsidence and rise of the soil under the action of freezing and thawing water in it. It is from such shrinkage that you need to protect bearing structures. For the foundation, frameworks made of reinforcement are used, and for walls made of aerated concrete and foam blocks, which are poured at the level floors. If these measures are not taken, then cracks in the walls and foundations during construction on weak and water-saturated soils are guaranteed.

What practical conclusions can be drawn from our theoretical reasoning?

Very simple: you can install windows in a house made of gas or foam concrete blocks 2-3 months after the completion of the masonry walls. This period is enough for the foundation to gain the necessary strength.

Someone may object, saying that the house must stand for at least 1 year before the installation of windows and finishing, so that the processes of soil stabilization are completed. We answer this by saying that the process of soil movement is continuous. Therefore, one should hope not for the complete completion of the settlement of the building, but for the quality of construction - a solid foundation and load-bearing walls.

The nuances of high-quality installation of windows in aerated concrete and foam blocks

Let's say right away that inserting a plastic window into a foam block is not difficult. It is much more difficult to ensure the tightness and durability of the joints between the wall and the plastic frame.

For this, three conditions must be met:

• Seam tightness.
• Protecting the contact area from heat loss.
• Mechanical strength of the "window-wall" contact.

The tightness of the seams can be partially ensured by quarters - protrusions that are cut into blocks. In addition, it is necessary to use sealing materials - frost-resistant sealants or self-expanding tape (PSUL). The area of ​​contact between the frame and the wall is insulated in the traditional way - polyurethane-based foam. Dowels or mounting plates are responsible for the mechanical strength of the fastening.

Fix window frame in the opening in two ways:

1. After removing the glazing, drill into plastic profile a hole for a long dowel-nail, attach the frame to the wall with it and put the double-glazed window in place.
2. Without removing the glazing, fix the anchor plates around the entire perimeter of the frame with self-tapping screws. After that, you need to install the window in the installation position and fix it to the wall with dowel-nails through the holes in the plates.

Installation plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete, according to the first method, it has its drawbacks: dismantling and installation of a double-glazed window is laborious, and the position of the frame in the opening after its fixation cannot be changed. The second method of installation is more convenient, since, if necessary, the position of the window before blowing foam can be changed, and only after that it can be finally fixed.

Standard installation of windows in aerated concrete begins with the installation of spacers made of plastic or wood under the frame. They are necessary to create a gap into which the insulating foam will be blown.

Before this operation, the mounting plates must be attached to the frame. To do this, use self-tapping screws with a length of 19 mm and a diameter of 4.8 mm.

The installation depth of the window can be from 8 to 12 cm (from the edge of the frame to the edge of the opening) and depends on the thickness of the wall (20 or 30 cm). If the outer part of the masonry is insulated, then the window can be placed closer to the outer edge of the opening by the thickness of the insulation.

The indicated indents are not chosen for reasons of aesthetics. appearance windows, and because of the need to protect the bindings from moisture condensation and freezing (the dew point should be outside the frame).

Having adjusted the position of the double-glazed window with the help of a level, holes are drilled in the blocks for the dowels (non-impact drill). From the edge of the block, the extreme hole of the plate should recede by at least 5 cm so as not to split it. First, the plate is fixed with one dowel (diameter 6 mm, length 80-100 mm). After the final alignment, screw the second.

After making sure that the window sashes open and close easily, they begin to foam the joint around the entire perimeter of the frame. For this job, it is better to take a frost-resistant foam with a low coefficient of expansion. This will increase the durability of the insulation and reduce the pressure on the frame. To improve the quality of adhesion of the foam to the block and the window, before blowing it, the entire seam must be treated with water from a sprayer.

After the foam has hardened, its excess, which has come out, is cut off. The adjusting wedges are removed and the resulting voids are foamed. Having completed these operations, the outer joint of the frame with the block is sealed with an expanding tape (PSUL) or protected with frost-resistant breathable putty. Another common option is to install a waterproofing tape on the adhesive sealant around the perimeter of the opening.

Sealing with sealing tape

The internal joint is treated with putty, carefully leveling it over the entire contact area with the insulation.

The installation of the ebb and window sill completes the installation. An important nuance of this work is the correct placement of holes in the plastic profile, through which the condensate from the window goes out. They must be above low tide so that moisture does not get on the blocks.

In conclusion, I would like to say about the quarters that protect the joints of plastic windows from blowing through and freezing. Any cellular concrete is well cut, so during the masonry process, quarters of the desired size can be made in it in advance.

Another option is to install dense (extruded) foam quarters. It insulates the slopes and the frame well, but it is quite difficult to finish, because it needs to install a mesh and high-quality putty. The foam is attached to the glue and additionally fixed to the blocks with plastic dowels with wide caps.

Walls built from expanded clay concrete blocks have good strength characteristics comparable to brick ones. The adhesive properties of this material with others based on cements are also good, therefore there are few fundamental differences from brickwork. It is permissible to arrange a small one-story room made of expanded clay blocks by yourself, without a preliminary project. However, you need to know some features, follow the instructions and follow the entire construction technology step by step.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to prepare the following tools: a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a rubber mallet, a trowel for applying mortar, a cord for marking devices, a square, a power tool for cutting blocks and grooves for reinforcement.

Where to start laying blocks is to prepare the foundation on which it is supposed to be built. The foundation surface should be as even as possible so that the height difference between the corners of the building does not exceed 3 cm. To do this, a leveling layer of cement composition is arranged. After that, it is necessary to lay out the cut-off waterproofing of the foundation from the masonry walls so that there is no capillary suction of water from the foundation.

Laying the first row

The laying of expanded clay concrete blocks can be carried out both on special glue and on conventional DSP. However, if it is planned to use additional insulation of the facade, there is no need for adhesives with reduced thermal conductivity. The thickness of the seams should be on average 12 mm.

Note: when building winter time years, frost-resistant additives should be put into the solution, according to the instructions.

The laying of the first row starts from the corner of the foundation, and from the highest. This is determined by the leveling method. But when building walls with your own hands, you can limit yourself to the building level. The first expanded clay block must be placed on the minimum layer of the composition, it is maximally leveled in the plane according to the plan, as well as vertically and horizontally, using the level. Then the corner blocks are left for a while for the mortar to set. So the laid element becomes a kind of beacon, to which the entire row is brought.

Masonry of the second and subsequent rows

Step-by-step instructions for laying expanded clay blocks:

1. Mark the site according to the layout, mark the places of window and door openings.

2. At the corners of the walls, install a vertical rail with markings for the height of the rows. It is allowed to do without it, often they simply use the "mason's corner". Pull the mooring line under the layout of the new row.

3. Transfer the number of blocks required for one row and ready solution directly to working area. Provide free access to auxiliary tools.

4. Apply a layer of glue, lay a brick on it.

Note: when laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands for the first time, it is better to start by spreading the composition under only one block, in the future, with the development of dexterity, it will be possible to lay 3-4 blocks at a time.

5. Align with a level and light taps with a suitable tool (you can use a trowel to distribute the adhesive mixture).

6. Lay the next brick.

Masonry schemes, dressing and abutment

The laying of expanded clay walls begins from the corners, the blocks are carefully leveled, and the mortar is given time to set. Then a mooring cord is tied to the corners, and the whole row is laid out along it. The last element is usually non-standard, it needs to be cut to size.

Note: the height of self-supporting walls should not exceed 3.5 m, and the free length should not exceed 8 m.

The walls can be different design, the most common are:

• In one row (half a block thick), these are obtained when laying expanded clay concrete blocks in the longitudinal direction. Here there is a classic bandaging of spoon rows with an offset of at least 0.4 from the height of the block (100 mm).
• In two rows (one block thick), dressing here is carried out by shifting the spoon rows relative to each other by at least 100 mm both in the longitudinal direction of the wall and in the transverse direction. In this case, it is necessary to do a bonding dressing every 2 rows - this is when the expanded clay blocks are located across the wall, for its entire thickness.

Pairing internal walls with external ones, it is possible to perform bonding of masonry or by anchoring blocks, embedded or reinforcing elements in increments of 600 mm (at least two bondings to the height of one floor are allowed). All steel products used in dressing must be corrosion resistant (stainless steel or with a special coating).

Reinforcement and lintels

In order to smooth out subsidence and shrinkage deformations of the masonry, as well as to reduce the risk of cracking, a girdle reinforcement is arranged for every third row. To do this, in the production of work on their own, steel bars of a periodic profile with a diameter of 8–10 mm are more often used. For them, it is necessary to arrange a strobe of such a depth (up to 25 mm) that the rods are completely immersed there, without protruding anywhere. At the corners of the structure, the reinforcement should not be interrupted; it would be correct to bend it with a certain radius. Next, a solution should be placed in the strobe, the rod should be “drowned” in it and covered with a top coat.

Reinforcement is required in the following support rows:

1. Under the door, window openings. In these places it is necessary to lay two rows of reinforcement 500 - 900 mm longer than the width of the opening on each side.

2. Under the overlap. Here, along the perimeter of the walls, a girdle two-row reinforcement or frame reinforcement is arranged, laid in U-shaped blocks.

If the masonry is carried out independently, without a preliminary design and calculations, then, succumbing to the desire to “work better and stronger”, you can make girdle reinforcement every 3 rows, this will increase the crack resistance of the structure as a whole.

Above window and door openings, lintels can be arranged as follows:

• With the use of U-shaped products. To do this, a support formwork is constructed, trays are laid out on it with a bypass on the wall of at least 250 mm. A reinforcing cage is placed in them, and everything is poured with concrete, which is compacted by bayoneting, then the surface must be leveled.
• Using ready-made . They are laid on a mortar layer with a bypass of 100 mm for non-bearing structures and at least 250 mm for load-bearing ones.
• It is also possible to use a rolled steel profile (corners, square tubes) as a permanent support formwork. On top, you can simply put expanded clay blocks with the usual dressing.

The overlap should be supported on a support row with girdle reinforcement, which will evenly redistribute the load along the entire perimeter. If a reinforced concrete slab or beams is used, it is recommended to anchor the ceiling with walls with bent reinforcement bars (for example, Ø8 A240). One side of the bent rod is hooked to the ceiling mounting loop, and the other side is placed along the expanded clay blocks. Also, it is desirable to additionally protect the ends of the floor slabs in the outer walls with a layer of insulation.

In cases where there is no self-confidence, it is better to turn to specialists. The cost of masonry per cube in the regions of Russia varies from 900 to 1600 rubles, the highest prices are in Moscow. Also, the cost depends on the types of work included in the estimate, for example, loading is sometimes considered separately.

During the construction of buildings and structures from expanded clay concrete blocks, there is a need for their sawing. Consider how to cut expanded clay concrete blocks, and determine the most optimal way.

Expanded clay concrete is a brittle material. Therefore, not all tools are suitable for cutting it. chop it down with an ordinary ax not always justified and safe. It is better to use special tools.

Hand saw

Many builders, when deciding how to cut expanded clay concrete blocks, opt for a hand saw. For cutting, use a tool with a thick metal blade and special hard soldering on the teeth. But for processing a large number of blocks, this method is not suitable, since it takes a long time to cut with a hand saw and maximum effort must be applied.

How to cut a claydite-concrete block, spending less time and effort? Some builders recommend using reciprocating saws.

A reciprocating saw is a type of power saw that cuts materials by reciprocating the blade. They are also called electric saws, as they resemble a hand saw.

To work with expanded clay concrete blocks, the blade of a reciprocating saw, like a conventional hand saw, must be made of hard alloys and have soldered teeth. Recommended length 400 mm pitch 12.7 mm. These characteristics correspond to Bosch S 2041 HM blades. Builders recommend purchasing reciprocating saws from this company for working with expanded clay concrete.

You can also purchase power tools from Makita. A popular model for non-professional use is the Makita JR3070CT. The average cost of which is 16,000 rubles.

Saw "Alligator"

What do professional workers saw? Builders use a special type of electric saw - "Alligator". The electric hacksaw has two saw blades that reciprocate, imitating the movements of the jaws of a crocodile.

The tool is very popular among builders due to its advantages:

• Provides a straight cut line
• There are no vibrations during tool operation
• When the mechanism is jammed, there is no reactive recoil
• Cuts blocks of any thickness
• It is convenient to work in hard-to-reach places.

Answering the question of how it is possible to saw expanded clay concrete blocks, we can confidently answer that an electric saw is a good option. But the Alligator saw also has some disadvantages:

• High price
• Crashes into the surface only from the edge
• The cutting accuracy is lower than, for example, a circular saw.

When choosing an alligator saw model, it is better to focus on tools from Bosch and Dewalt.

The Bosch GFZ 16-35 AC model is popular, which is endowed with a number of advantages:

• Has an electronic stabilization system
• Rigid tire
• Start interlock
• Second handle (for lefties)
• Ergonomic device of the model provides comfort and lack of fatigue
• Replacing discs without auxiliary tools.

Also, builders often purchase the Dewalt DWE 397 model. This electric saw has the following advantages:

• Magnesium alloy is used for the manufacture of the gearbox housing, due to which heat is removed and vibration is damped
• Electronic system ensures optimum cutting speed
• Taking your fingers off the trigger stops the tool in a second.

Consider a comparative table of these models

Model	Power	Number of double strokes per minute	Blade travel	Bar length	Weight	Medium price
Bosch GFZ 16-35 AC	1.6 kW	800-2500	50 mm	350 mm	5.2 kg	35000 rub.
Dewalt DWE 397	1.35 kW	3300	38 mm	425 mm	4.3 kg	21000 rub.

To save money, you can purchase Russian or Chinese power saws. But the cutting quality will be much lower, and such tools will last less. .

Bulgarian

Bulgarian (angle grinder) - a kind of circular saws. The working body of the tool is a disk with a radius of 230 mm. To work with expanded clay concrete block, I use segmented diamond discs.

Do not use other types of discs, otherwise, when deformed, they will heat up and burst. Which could lead to injury.

This is the most suitable option, according to many builders, for cutting expanded clay concrete blocks. The tool provides high cutting accuracy.

But there are also disadvantages. The grinder is able to saw through a hole limited by the radius of the disk. Therefore, the blocks are cut to the maximum possible depth and split.

Most often, a block is split in 2 ways:

1. An ax is lowered into the cut and hit with a hammer.
2. The block is lifted and with force lowered by a cutting line onto a wooden beam.

When cutting expanded clay concrete blocks angle grinder With diamond disc a lot of fine dust is formed. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the respiratory organs and eyes. It is recommended to take breaks during work so that the dust has time to settle a little.

You can not cut expanded clay concrete blocks with a chainsaw. The tool chain will not support the load. And the dust will get into the gearbox, bearings and gears. Which will cause them to wear out. For cutting, it is better to use a grinder with a disc diameter of 230 mm and a weight of up to 6-8 kg.

When choosing a model of an angle grinder, we look at the presence of parameters:

• Speed ​​control
• Smooth start
• Dust collection (presence of a casing)
• Additional handle included (for more comfortable holding of the tool).

Among the popular models, grinders from Makita and Husqvarna can be distinguished.

You can buy a cheaper model made in China. So, for example, the grinder Total TG1242306 is in demand. The model has a disc diameter of 230 mm, power 2.35 kW. The tool comes with a protective cover and an additional handle. The manufacturer provides a 24-month warranty for its product. But this model is less reliable.

Often, consumers have a question: is it possible not to saw, but to split the block? If the quality of the cut does not matter, and, if necessary, it is only necessary to divide the block into two parts, you can split it. To do this, you need a hammer and a blade of an old hacksaw for wood.

Often, when building buildings from expanded clay concrete, it becomes necessary to cut holes in blocks for dowels or anchor bolts.

Since expanded clay concrete is a fragile material, the drilling process must be carried out very carefully. You can use a carbide-tipped drill for this. A perforator will also work. But they should work without a chiselling mode. For through holes, you can use an impact drill.

Answering the question of how expanded clay concrete blocks are sawn, it should be noted that there are 4 types of tools most often used for these purposes. Which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Choice the best option depends on the amount of work and the budget planned for construction. Right choice tool will ensure efficient processing of the material.