How to make a frame for a concrete staircase. Monolithic concrete stairs: manufacturing technology, pros and cons. When performing work, it is important to ensure

One of the best solutions for interfloor communication is a concrete staircase. Ready-made concrete products have quite categorical standardization and their use in atypical architecture is limited. In this article, we will look at the process and technology for creating a concrete staircase with our own hands.

Principles for calculating a concrete staircase

In order for the staircase to be convenient for each tenant, it must be correctly calculated. Of course, you can determine the parameters empirically by measuring the height and length of the steps of the actual stairs that you use and that you find comfortable. But it is better to stick to a proven calculation methodology.

The horizontal plane of the step is called the tread, and the vertical plane is called the riser. The width of the tread should be sufficient so that the foot rests on it by at least 80%. Stairs with a tread of 300 mm are considered the safest and most comfortable, when climbing stairs with wider steps, you are likely to lose your step, and a narrower tread will make the descent uncomfortable. The width of the flight of stairs should be at least 80 cm for the convenient passage of people and at least 120 cm if you plan to carry furniture or bulky items up the stairs.

The dependence of the height and width of the step on the angle of the stairs

The height of the riser is selected depending on the width of the tread. For steps with a width of 300 mm, a height of 150 mm will be optimal. If you want to make the steps wider by 10 mm, reduce the riser by the same amount and vice versa.

It is believed that the sum of the double height of the riser and the width of the tread should be equal to the average step of a person - 400-600 mm. This indicator is individual and depends on the height of the person, so if children live in the house, make the stairs safer by increasing the tread and reducing the width of each step.

Knowing the optimal height of the riser, divide by this value the difference in height between floors, and you will get the number of steps in the stairs. The fractional remainder of the division is the height of the first frieze step. By multiplying the number of steps by the width of the tread, you will determine the length of the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs and determine whether the flight of stairs fits into the space allotted for it.

If the flight of stairs does not fit, you can make it shorter by increasing the angle of ascent. The most convenient and safe is the slope of the stairs at 26-37 °, it is more difficult to climb steeper stairs, and with a slope of more than 45 °, the descent is possible only backwards. To determine the angle of the stairs, use the model of a right triangle, in which the legs are the tread and the riser. You can calculate the angle by dividing the step height by its width and using the table of angle tangent values.

Determination of the angle of inclination of the stairs by the height and width of the step

If you do not want to sacrifice comfort, do not change the width and height of the steps. Instead, divide the span with an inter-march platform, make 5-6 lower steps winder or build a radial spiral staircase. Please note that in this case the width of the step at the narrowest point should not be less than 100 mm.

Reinforcement rules for flights of stairs

A concrete staircase is a self-supporting structure that needs additional support only if the flight angle exceeds 180°. Otherwise, in the central part of the monolithic structure, the fracture load will exceed the normative values ​​and compensation will be required - fastening to the walls or the construction of supporting columns.

The main load in a concrete staircase falls on reinforcement, the amount of which is a record, in comparison with other reinforced concrete products - from 1.7 to 3% of the cross section along the length of the span and up to 0.8% of the cross section along the width. Reinforcement brand ST-5 is laid along the span with a step between the rods:

• 120 mm with a rod diameter of 10 mm;
• 160 mm with a diameter of 12-14 mm;
• 180 mm with a diameter of 16 mm;
• 200 mm with a diameter over 18 mm.

Reinforcement in the lateral projection is performed in increments of 250-300 mm. Reinforcement of platforms is carried out with a step of 200 mm in each direction.

The fastening of reinforcement to embedded elements in the walls is carried out not so much in order to provide additional support, but for the sake of solidity of the structure and in order to avoid cracks during the settlement of the building. However, to the ceilings, the monolith of the stairs must have a rigid fastening by means of the release of embedded reinforcement by 60-80 mm.

The reinforcement forms a grid, folded without clearance and placed on plastic clamps that regulate the protective layer of concrete 3-5 cm from each edge. Two-row reinforcement is sufficient for stairs with 18 steps; in longer spans, an additional third row of longitudinal reinforcement will be required, located 5-6 cm above the main grid.

At the crosshairs, the mesh is tied with wire or nylon clamps. Each rebar must be continuous throughout the entire length or width, but this is not always possible on long spans or radius stairs. Therefore, it is allowed to splice embedded elements:

• viscous with an overlap of 24 nominal diameters;
• welding with a one-sided seam with an overlap of 12 diameters;
• welding with a double-sided seam with an overlap of 6 diameters.

The steps do not need reinforcement, but to protect them from chipping, it is reasonable to use a 4x50 mm steel mesh under a 2 cm layer of concrete.

Formwork installation

Formwork for stairs is simpler than it might seem. First, a gutter is mounted from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, strictly horizontal in diameter and with vertical walls fastened together with screeds, one for each step. The role of the walls of the gutter can be performed by adjoining walls. On inner surface walls with a thickness gauge marks the height of the ramp - the bearing plate of the stairs, which is equal to the thickness of the reinforcement plus the upper and lower protective layer. Further, with a ruler, and for a radius staircase - with a thread of a fixed length, the vertical edges of the steps are marked on the drawn line. The length of the inclined segment is equal to the square root of the sum of the squares of the height and the length of the steps (Pythagorean law).

According to the marks made, vertical lines are drawn, on which the height of the steps is marked. To check should be postponed by a new label horizontal line and measure the distance between the points of intersection with the vertical and the slope of the ramp: it should be equal to the length of one step.

According to the marked marks, the step formwork boards are installed vertically, fixing them to the walls of the gutter, the top of each step remains open. Adjacent boards are fastened with wedge-shaped struts, one for every 80 cm of the span width. The wide part of the wedge is attached to the end of the top board, the narrow part is superimposed on the upper edge of the bottom. Particular attention should be paid to the walls of the gutter, they will bear the main load.

The formwork is supported from below with scaffolds or telescopic props with a load capacity of up to 800 kg. The number of racks is one for every 1.2 m 2 of the ramp surface. To install supports, 40x40 mm transverse bars are screwed to the bottom of the formwork from below to form a semblance of an inverted ladder.

pouring stairs

The filling of the flight of stairs between floors is carried out in one stage. You can’t prepare such an amount of concrete manually, and you can’t vouch for the quality of the artisanal mix. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the internal volume of the formwork, equal to the volume of the ramp plus the volume of one step, multiplied by their number. It is recommended to order concrete of class B30 or higher with a margin of at least 10% of the original volume to account for losses during transportation.

The pouring of the stairs begins with the lower steps with a gradual advance as the formwork is filled and the surface is leveled. Concrete must be rammed, and at the end of pouring, seated with vibration. Settling of the mixture on the steps after shrinkage can be eliminated by topping up immediately or grouting cement mortar M300 on cement grade 500 the next day.

Concrete gains sufficient strength within 14 days. During the drying period, it is imperative to moisten the surface to avoid cracking. After two weeks, the formwork is removed and proceed to the finishing work.

Finishing work: how to simplify the cladding

There are many options for cladding stairs, ranging from simple painting to laying special marble slabs. It is only important to give a few tips that will greatly simplify further ennoblement.

Tip 1. Prepare formwork carefully. Up to the complete sealing of cracks and complete puttying. The formwork is a form, and if its surface is perfectly even, then after dismantling, it remains only to eliminate minor defects in the concrete to obtain an absolutely smooth coating.

Tip 2. Iron the steps the next day after pouring. If the formwork is mounted correctly, in the future it remains only to grind the edges a little.

Tip 3. Provide pre-embedded elements for railings and fences. This will not only simplify their installation, but will not violate the strength of the structure.

Tip 4. Don't skimp on spacers and formwork support. Even a slight twist or punch will ruin the look.

Tip 5 Make steps of the same height, with the possible exception of the frieze.

Tip 6 Start finishing the stairs only after the complete renovation of the house.

Perhaps, monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are not as common in the private sector as wooden or frame ones, but they are also quite popular. They captivate with their solidity and massiveness, as well as huge possibilities in terms of finishing, not least their long service life. Among the craftsmen of the portal, such designs are also in demand, thanks to which a lot of experience has been gained both in design and in execution on their own or under personal control.

Consider:

• Monolithic stairs - constructive, varieties.
• Design features of a monolithic staircase.
• Construction technology of a monolithic staircase.
• How to prepare formwork for a monolithic staircase.
• Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase.
• Concreting of a monolithic staircase.

Monolithic concrete stairs

Monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are load-bearing stationary structures, poured directly on site, necessarily including a reinforcing cage. Depending on the dimensions and type of stairs, the reinforcing cage can be independent or connected to the wall.

As for the form, concrete provides no less opportunities than wood or metal, monolithic stairs can be anything:

• marching;
• with winder steps;
• screw;
• on a string, with a gap between the steps;
• on the kosour.

According to the execution of the bottom, monolithic stairs are divided into two types:

• full-bodied - with a smooth bottom;
• mirrored - with a curly bottom.

Naturally, the more complex the form of the structure, the more difficult the calculations and implementation, the marching concrete stairs are considered the simplest. But they also need more space, the march must be laid initially, but it’s more realistic to “squeeze” a staircase with winder steps into the opening more modestly, although it is considered less convenient.

Design features of monolithic stairs

Ideally, monolithic stairs should be laid at the design stage, since due to their massiveness they require more space and a reinforced base. For example, if you first fill in a warm floor, and then decide that you want a monolith, this will cause certain difficulties.

Pozitivnyi FORUMHOUSE member

I would not lean the stairs on the warm floor. Under it is a heater that can play, and the screed can burst, damaging the pipes. We usually remove part of the screed and do pile foundation in the area of ​​the first step, its farthest part from the wall.

The staircase, regardless of the type and material chosen, must first of all be safe and functional - with comfortable steps, at least an acceptable angle of inclination and a sufficient span.

For the calculation of monolithic stairs, the same rules apply as for the rest:

• When calculating the length of the march, the thickness of the floor coverings is taken into account.
• The optimal march width is 1000-1200 mm, the minimum is 900 mm.
• The number of steps in the march - a maximum of 15 pcs.
• The height of comfortable steps is 150-170 mm, maximum - 200 mm.
• Tread width - 250-300 mm.
• The optimal angle of inclination is 30-37⁰, the maximum is 45⁰ (along the middle axis).

There is a calculation formula: 2a + b \u003d 640, where a is the height of the step, b is the width of the step, and 640 mm is the average length of our step. Portal craftsmen use another formula to calculate monolithic stairs.

Iosich

The norm is when, according to the formula: riser plus tread is 45 cm, or riser plus tread, plus riser is 58-62 cm.

A project with independent development can be either drawn on paper or in a special constructor. The second option is preferable, since a virtual 3D model is obtained, and the computer performs the main calculations based on the input. This is especially true when it comes to structures with winder steps.

Iosich

A properly designed staircase should have the same height of all risers and the same tread size of all steps along the axis of the running lane (usually in the middle of the march). For straight stairs, such a calculation is not difficult to make, but winder steps are already more problematic. Often this rule (about the same size) in the manufacture of such stairs is not respected, and as a result, there is discomfort when using them in the future. I don't count stairs hand-to-hand. Arkon copes with this task perfectly. I place a staircase of the required type on the plan, set the parameters, observe the model in a 3D view.

Construction technology of monolithic stairs

The process of building a monolithic staircase consists of three main stages:

• formwork assembly;
• reinforcement;
• concreting.

Finishing work, although an obligatory, finishing stage, can often be decently spaced in time, especially when the stairs are erected simultaneously with the box.

Formwork for a monolithic staircase

In order to immediately obtain a sufficiently smooth surface, the formwork is assembled from smooth materials, mainly waterproof plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more. If there is a financial possibility or expediency (several stairs), then it is better to choose laminated plywood. The bottom and sidewalls are assembled from plywood, a cut board 30-35 mm thick or a beam, 50 × 50 mm, is used to form the risers.

All formwork elements are cut out as accurately as possible and adjusted during assembly without the formation of cracks, if necessary, the joints are additionally sealed.

Long self-tapping screws are most often chosen as fasteners, metal corners and bars are used to reinforce the shape, the flanging is strengthened with a bar, the bottom is supported with metal or wooden racks with a step step. If the staircase is of a complex shape (spiral, winder steps), then instead of racks, carriers are sometimes made (crossbars fixed at one end to the wall and the other to the sidewall). When using ordinary plywood from the inside, it is recommended to cover the formwork with a film or other insulation.

The formwork is usually assembled in two stages - first the bottom and sidewall / sidewalls, and after laying the reinforcing cage, the crossbeams are mounted under the steps. One of our craftsmen decided to try first to completely assemble the formwork, and only then to perform reinforcement.

Golubev

At home, I first made reinforcement, now I’ll try it differently, yes, there will be difficulties - to knit and cook reinforcement under the steps (lintels). But then it is not easy to install jumpers on fittings. And now I can immediately see where and how to install reinforcement. If some step interferes, then unscrew it - a couple of minutes, and so many more - return it to its place. The main thing is that this place be found, lined, and the step is installed in three dimensions according to the level, painstaking work. And when there is still reinforcement under my feet, it is inconvenient, so I try this way.

Another of our craftsmen, professionally involved in stairs, advises not to create unnecessary difficulties for yourself.

Nikwas

A roll of cheap wallpaper - draw a kosour (monolith), fasten it to the wall, setting it according to the level - mark the places for reinforcement and fasteners, drill, fasten the bars / boards directly according to the pattern on the wallpaper, then just tear off the wallpaper from the wall!

Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase

To increase the strength of the structure and prevent spilling of the edges of steps and marches, reinforcement is required - longitudinal and transverse. Steel reinforcement with a periodic profile, 10-14 mm in diameter (longitudinal reinforcement is thicker), from which a spatial frame is formed in the form of a grid with a cell of 100-200 mm, depending on the parameters of the march, is used. The reinforcement is fixed to each other with a knitting mesh using a hook or by welding. To withstand the thickness of the protective layer (2 cm), special ones are used today.

If the design of the stairs provides for support in the wall through the reinforcement, then usually the rods are simply hammered, but if the wall is made of materials characterized by reduced bearing capacity, for example, aerated concrete, our craftsmen advise making pits.

Pozitivnyi

Do not drive reinforcement into aerated concrete, this will not give the required support area for the stairs, it is better to make pits and run reinforcement there, and then fill it all with concrete. Here is an example.

Thanks to this technique, rather heavy stairs can be supported on aerated concrete walls.

Pozitivnyi

If you make pits in the wall at least 10x10 cm, then the support area will be 100 cm², and if you drive in reinforcement, then 10 cm². The brand of aerated concrete is from 35 to 50, therefore, 100 cm² will withstand from 300 to 500 kg. This means that twenty pits will provide a load of 6 to 10 tons, plus the ladder will stand against the walls, plus support on the first step, plus support on the floor slab.

Reinforcement can be single or double, the opinions of our craftsmen are divided on this matter - some believe that it is better to install two meshes to be sure, others that one is enough for most structures. The forum is devoted to this issue. In short, one-layer reinforcement advocates alexxxxx, one of the professionals performing custom-made monolithic stairs.

alexxxxx

Reinforcement in monolithic structures is needed in the tension zone, and what is the tension in the upper part of the slab? There, the reinforcement lies dead weight - this is the first. Double reinforcement is required in very rare cases, doing it on all stairs is a transfer of material and extra work, this is the second. Thirdly, the total amount of reinforcement as a percentage is regulated by SNIP. If with a single-layer reinforcement, this percentage approaches the limit, then with a two-layer one, this SNIP percentage will definitely be exceeded. Fourth - on a span of three meters, I use reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm in increments of 120-130 mm. For comparison - monolithic slab ceilings of six meters are reinforced with the same reinforcement in increments of 200 mm. What will be stronger? Of my more than a hundred staircases made, three were made under the supervision of technical supervision, technical supervision did not make any comments on reinforcement - this is the fifth.

According to alexxxxx, double reinforcement is justified when:

• there is pinching of the top and bottom - if there is no third support;
• there is no support at all on the bottom and top, and the structure “hangs” embedded into the wall;
• stairs on one kosour - upper reinforcement and clamps prevent torsion of the kosour;
• with thin monolithic steps, for example, one side stringer - the lower reinforcement of the steps works in compression, and the upper one works in tension;
• the flight of stairs crosses the retaining wall (it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the lower layer, so as not to exceed the permissible percentage together with the upper one).

The exception is typical factory marches, designed for high throughput and use both inside and outside - they always have double reinforcement.

One of the moderators of our forum has a different point of view.

Rolandspb

I usually always do two grids in a ladder, no matter what. But in general, of course, they are not always needed. If tension is clearly in the lower zone, then reinforcement in the upper zone is not needed. But, in fact, the overspending on the upper grid of the ladder is about 100 kg, you will not gain much. Reinforcing the stairs is quite difficult with several bends of the rods from the upper to the lower zone. I especially do not like the transition from the lower march to the platform or slab. A bent rod may not work within a certain range. Therefore, I connect two rods (one from the lower zone of the slab, and the second from the lower zone of the march), each of which I anchor at the point of their intersection and lead to the upper zone of the march and the slab, respectively. And in the transition from the slab to the upper march - there, in my opinion, it is quite possible to leave simply bent rods passing from the bottom of the slab to the bottom of the same march. It is not certain that this is how it should be. But I do it. I am not campaigning for anyone.

Concreting of a monolithic staircase

For monolithic stairs, it is desirable to use factory concrete, with a class of B20 (M250), and preferably B25 or B30. If it is not possible to order ready solution, then a self-mix prepared in a concrete mixer is also suitable, but the use of plasticizers is mandatory. The typical ratio of cement, sand and gravel (fraction 10 × 20 mm) is 1/3/3, the solution should not be too liquid.

The staircase is poured in one go, starting from the lower steps, moving up, each step must be vibrated to prevent the formation of voids. During the vibration process, concrete may be squeezed out or settled, the excess is redistributed, after the final shrinkage, the surface of the steps is carefully smoothed with a rule or trowel. For a uniform set of strength, concrete is recommended to be covered with a film and moistened several times a day for a week.

About a week later, a partial demoulding is carried out - the crossbars and sides are removed in order to carry out rough grinding. The bottom is removed no earlier than after 3-4 weeks, when the structure gains the necessary strength. The next step will be finishing– installation of fences, plastering, cladding with wood, tiles, stone or other material. Previously, in the process of concreting, mortgages were necessarily made, today they have lost their relevance.

alexxxxx

Why mortgages? Will there be railings to weld? Very aesthetically pleasing! Yes, and the railing installers will remember with a very “kind” word the one who put these mortgages when they need to gouge a hole for the fasteners in this place. Now everyone has punchers, and the anachronism in the form of mortgages only interferes with the normal installation of the railing. Why do you need a mortgage when hidden fasteners look better. about a monolithic staircase according to technology fixed formwork.

Concrete stairs are widely used not only in places common use apartment buildings, but also in private houses, cottages and apartments.

Reinforced concrete stairs in a house or apartment they will suit almost any interior due to the wide possibilities for finishing such stairs. Stairs made of concrete are very durable, have high wear resistance. Of course, these conditions are feasible with the right design and correct calculations, not only the durability of the future staircase depends on these parameters, but also the safety of the people who will use it. You will find all the details of building a concrete staircase in this article.

Types of monolithic stairs

Monolithic stairs are divided according to the type of structures and shape. There are the following options for concrete stairs:

• screw;
• direct march;
• rotary.

In the manufacture of concrete stairs, the simplest design is a straight staircase, but it is not always convenient to use. In the case of the location of the stairs in small room to save space, they often use either a multi-flight staircase with winders or a turntable, or a spiral staircase.

When designing, and subsequently during construction, it is necessary to provide for reinforcement outlets at the points of contact with the stairs. This is necessary in order to connect the metal structure of the stairs with the elements of the house, for greater rigidity.

Monolithic stairs are the most versatile, they are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, so they can be used not only as interfloor stairs. From a monolith, for example, a staircase to the basement or entrance staircase to the house.

Straight single flight staircase

This type stairs are very common. A single-flight staircase is built in houses with low ceilings, turning stairs are more often built in houses with high ceilings.

Based on the calculation that the comfortable span length is not more than 15 steps, we find that in rooms with high ceilings it is more correct to use stairs with winders or turntables. The use of a straight ladder in this case will lead to an increase in the number of steps and discomfort when using it.

Benefits of a straight ladder:

• ease of installation, in comparison with stairs of other forms;
• price;
• following the recommendations of our site, you can easily build such a staircase.

Spiral staircase

Such a staircase made of reinforced concrete will fit beautifully into the interior of any home.

Advantages:

• placing the stairs on an area of ​​​​1.5 m 2 is a huge plus, especially in small houses;
• Unusual, elegant shape of the stairs will decorate any interior.

Spiral filling stairs also have a number of installation difficulties:

• difficult installation, regardless of the type of construction chosen, it is necessary to manufacture special-shaped panels for formwork;
• difficulty in moving up the stairs due to the different width of the step along the entire length;
• difficulties in lifting and lowering bulky objects, the problem is solved by increasing the diameter of the stairs.

Turning stairs

They are used in various cases - in houses with high ceilings, to save optimal angle lift and march length are also widely used in the construction of apartment buildings. Let's highlight two common options:

• with a turn of 90 degrees (L-shaped);
• with a rotation of 180 degrees (U-shaped).

As a turn, winder steps or a turntable are used. Staircase with winder steps in its own way design feature occupies a smaller area compared to a turntable.

Construction types

All concrete stairs are divided into:

• monolithic stairs made of concrete - manufacturing is carried out directly at the installation site by pouring a concrete solution into a pre-prepared formwork;
• prefabricated - are reinforced concrete blocks, pre-prepared at factories according to a standard template.

All types of stairs (straight, rotary and spiral) can be both monolithic and prefabricated, but in addition they are also divided according to the type of construction. The main structures are:

• on bowstrings;
• on stringers;
• console;
• modular.

We will analyze each of them in detail, so that you can better understand which type of design is right for you.

On a string

The design is a staircase, from the side of which no steps will be visible. The steps are located between the elements of the concrete structure.

The design can be either with closed steps,

as well as open.

There are designs with a one-sided arrangement of the bowstring, in this design it is similar to the cantilever design.

On the kosour

The difference between this design and the previous one is that the steps are open from the sides and the staircase has a zigzag appearance.

In addition, the designs are distinguished by the location of the stringer:

• Monokosour - can be located both in the center of the stairs, and with an offset to either side.

• Kosour - outwardly it looks exactly, as well as stairs on stringers made of other materials. In this design, stringers are made of concrete, and the steps themselves can be made of concrete or other material.

• The staircase is a monolithic stringer.

Modular

Modular structures include prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs. The most common among modular concrete structures are stairs in apartment buildings. In such buildings, multi-flight stairs with turntables are used.

Much less often, prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs are presented in the form of spiral ones.

Another option for a modular design is the use of individual steps as sides, which are installed on inclined channels.

The process of assembling a staircase from prefabricated concrete elements is ultimately easier compared to the installation of monolithic stairs due to pre-prepared concrete elements. During the assembly process, the elements of the stairs are installed in pre-prepared places and fixed with a concrete solution.

Console

Unusual and interesting design. Due to the fact that there are no railings, risers and retaining elements, a feeling of lightness and weightlessness is created.

In order to avoid damage and destruction of the steps of the cantilever staircase during operation, it is necessary to carefully make all the calculations at the design stage.

For the manufacture of a cantilever staircase from concrete steps, it is important that the walls are made of durable material and have sufficient width. In the process of building a house, a step for 1/3 of the length is built into the wall.

Design and requirements for monolithic reinforced concrete stairs

When designing, it is important to remember that each staircase has its own characteristics for calculating parameters based on the shape of the staircase and its design. You can use the detailed calculation of all the necessary parameters in the article on the calculation of stairs, as well as a construction calculator for each type.

Based on SNiP, we highlight the main parameters that must be taken into account when designing a concrete staircase:

• number of steps - the calculation is carried out relative to the length of the span to the height of the step;
• tread width - according to the norms for convenient use stairs are necessary so that the foot can fully fit on the tread;
• step height - varies depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs, a comfortable height is about 160–180 mm;
• step length - corresponds to the width of the march, for a quiet movement in both directions of two people, as well as for lifting bulky objects, a march width of about 1200 mm is sufficient;
• ceiling opening - the distance from the steps to the edge of the opening must be at least 200 cm;
• railing height - averages 90 - 110 cm;
• the length of the kosour or bowstring is calculated using the mathematical formula of Pythagoras. (stringer length) 2 = (stringer height) 2 + (march length) 2;

• the optimal angle of inclination for stairs in residential premises is from 24 to 37 °, depending on this it will be possible to determine the height of the riser and the width of the step;

• for turning stairs, it is necessary to calculate additional supporting posts and a turntable or winder steps.

These parameters are applicable to single-flight and multi-flight stairs, in the case of spiral staircases there are slight differences:

• It is necessary to determine the diameter of the stairs, it depends on the length of the step and the diameter of the central column of the support: 2 * (length of the step) + (diameter of the central column).
• Special parameters also go to the shape and size of the steps. Due to the fact that the step narrows towards the anchorage support, it is necessary to adhere to the following parameters: at the narrowest point, the width should be at least 10 cm, in the central part of the rise - at least 20 cm, at the widest part - no more than 40 cm.

In addition to the above parameters required for the construction of stairs, it is important to remember that concrete stairs have a number of additional parameters.

One of these conditions is the reinforcement of the concrete stairs. Reinforcement is a kind of skeleton of a staircase that strengthens and supports it. When designing, it is necessary to separately draw a reinforcement scheme, it must fully follow the contour of the future staircase, it is also important for the necessary strength of the entire structure.

Particular attention is also required to be paid to the quality of the concrete mix, the strength of the future staircase also depends on it. To properly prepare the concrete mixture, you can rely on a table that shows the ratios for obtaining 1m 3 of concrete, or you can use a calculator for.

After completing the calculations of all the above parameters, it is necessary to draw a staircase and all its components separately, in at least two projections - this is a top view and a side view. The execution of the drawing is necessary for a visual representation of both each element separately (the shape of the step and the pattern of the balustrade or fence), and the entire staircase as a whole.

The main advantages of concrete stairs:

• They have a rigid structure, there are no creaks and vibrations.
• The construction of a concrete staircase in a private house begins simultaneously with the construction of the house, thanks to which it can be used for construction needs without fear of damaging it.
• Concrete stairs are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, ideal for outdoor location, like an entrance staircase.
• There is no possibility of fire.
• The material allows you to perform the craziest design projects.

A design feature is the fact that a concrete staircase requires a solid foundation (foundation) and an equally strong floor on which it will rest. All this is due to the fact that concrete is a very heavy material, in addition, the heavy reinforced skeleton of the stairs also adds weight.

Construction stages

So we got to the most important stage with you, this is the construction of a concrete staircase. For convenience, we divide this stage into six steps:

• Foundation - we have already discussed that for the manufacture of stairs made of concrete, you need a solid foundation and floor, on which it will rest. This step must be completed if the foundation for the stairs was not provided at the stage of pouring the foundation for the house.
• Formwork is a structure that sets the shape of a future staircase, depending on the shape and size of the structure, wood or metal is used for formwork.
• Reinforcement is a necessary process to give the ladder tensile force and strength.
• Pouring concrete - it is important to pour the stairs in one go and expel all the air from the concrete.
• Removal of the formwork - all panels are dismantled after strengthening the concrete.

We will analyze each of the steps presented in detail so that you have no questions left and you yourself can make a monolithic staircase with your own hands.

Foundation

You can find their description on our website. The foundation is selected depending on the soil and the loads exerted on it.

For example, consider slab foundation under the stairs. Since the foundation is also a reinforced concrete structure, it will be necessary to follow almost all the same steps as for the stairs:

1. We excavate the soil, within the limits necessary for the stairs, to a depth of 60-80 cm.
2. Making a pillow under the foundation, we fall asleep and ram the sand, the thickness of the sand pillow should be at least 20 cm.
3. On top of the sand, we fall asleep and rammed crushed stone tailcoats 20x40, the thickness of the crushed stone pillow should be from 10 to 20 cm, depending on the loads on the foundation.
4. After preparing the pillow, if necessary, raising the foundation above the ground, we make the formwork. Otherwise, the earth will perform the formwork function.
5. We prepare a reinforced frame and fill the entire structure with concrete, providing a reinforced frame in such a way that reinforcement sticks out above the foundation level for attaching a reinforced ladder frame to it.
6. After pouring, it is necessary to use a vibrating tool to eliminate air bubbles in the foundation and eliminate porosity.
7. After pouring the foundation, it is necessary to wait until the concrete is completely fixed before proceeding with the installation of the stairs. The process of full consolidation will take about three weeks. In order for the foundation to gain rigidity before it dries, it must be watered regularly.

Stairs on a concrete base are much stronger, due to the fact that there is no subsidence of the soil, which leads to deformation and destruction of the stairs.

Formwork installation

Preparing the formwork for a future staircase in a private house is one of the most important stages, because it depends on it how beautiful the staircase will turn out.

For installation, it is necessary to prepare the materials from which the formwork will be built:

• Edged board with a thickness of 30 mm or waterproof plywood with a thickness of 12-18 mm - the bottom of the formwork will be made from them (it will bear the main load of all the poured concrete), as well as the side parts of the formwork and risers.
• Bars 100x100 mm and boards 50x150-170 mm - will be used to support the entire structure.
• A thin sheet of metal or waterproof plywood 6-9 mm - to form semicircular sections of the stairs.
• Metal corners and self-tapping screws for fastening - the use of self-tapping screws is due to the fact that with their help it is easier to disassemble the formwork than after using nails.

To obtain the smoothest possible surface of the future staircase, it is necessary to ensure that the internal formwork elements that will be in contact with concrete are smooth and without unnecessary errors; for this, it is better to grind them before assembly.

Formwork assembly step by step:

There are special panels for assembling formwork, more often they are used by professional builders.

The set of such shields includes special retaining poles. All shields have locks for a tight and durable connection to each other.

Stair reinforcement

To reinforce a monolithic staircase, it is necessary to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. The fittings must be corrugated with a class not lower than AIII.

Let's analyze correct location fittings:

• Reinforcement bars should be at least 20-30 mm and not more than 50 mm from the edge of the structure. It is necessary to provide special supports that will be used in order to support the distances from the bottom of the formwork.
• The distance between the reinforcing bars should be at least 20-30 cm. As a result of the bundle of reinforcement, cells of 20x30 cm should be formed. The close location of the reinforcement is not allowed, due to the fact that in this way an obstacle to the passage of concrete mortar can be created.
• At the joints of the stairs with walls and ceilings, it is necessary to deepen the reinforcement into these elements, drill a hole and drive the reinforcement into it.
• The reinforcing mesh must be made in at least two or more layers, depending on the thickness of the stairs. The diameter of the transverse rods must be at least 6 mm.
• A bunch of reinforcement is carried out using wire.

Reinforcement should not be overfilled with reinforcement:

• Firstly, it is possible to obstruct the passage of concrete, which will lead to the formation air gaps and reduced structural rigidity.
• Secondly, it will significantly weight the structure. It’s good if your foundation is designed with a margin and can withstand this load, but it can be completely different.
• Thirdly, this is an unnecessary rise in the cost of construction.

For example, we give a number of cases of correct and incorrect reinforcement of the rotary sections of the structure (edit photo)

Pouring concrete

Having completed the installation of formwork and reinforcement, do not rush to fill the stairs with concrete. Consider a few things ahead of time:

• Finishing the stairs - if the stairs are sheathed with wood, it would be more correct to place small bars into the concrete at the pouring stage, to which you can later attach the finishing elements. Thanks to this, it will not be necessary to drill the ladder, thereby weakening it.
• Racks for the railing - depending on how the railing racks will be fastened, it is necessary to install the railing racks themselves or mortgages for them, this is if the railings are placed on the steps. If the placement is on the side of the stairs, it is possible to place a metal plate, to which it will be possible to attach railing posts in the future.

Don't be in a hurry, before pouring concrete on the staircase, try to take into account all the possible elements that you want to add to your staircase. If necessary, loop the embedded pipes under electrical cable for illumination. Any drilling and drilling of a finished concrete staircase to a certain extent will reduce the strength of the entire structure, so the more possible factors you foresee before the staircase is poured, the stronger it will turn out.

To pour concrete stairs, it is necessary to prepare concrete of a grade of at least M200, you can get it using the table above or a construction calculator. (Insert link) larger size may interfere with the passage of the solution in the reinforcement piping.

The sequence of pouring a monolithic staircase:

• It is better to start the pouring process from the lower steps. After filling the first 3 steps, it is necessary to expel the air from the concrete; for this, use a submersible vibration tool. If the air is not expelled, the concrete will be porous and more brittle.
• If the concrete sags after the air escapes, add the mortar and give the steps the correct shape.
• Then proceed to pouring all the remaining steps. Try to pour the entire staircase at one time so that the concrete mixture bonds well. In the case of a large staircase, pour one run at a time.
• After pouring concrete, you need to cover the stairs with a film to prevent moisture from evaporating and to allow the concrete to harden.

Formwork removal

Do not rush to remove the formwork elements, if the concrete has not hardened enough, the entire structure will collapse and the whole process will have to be started from the very beginning.

First of all, the formwork is removed from the steps and from the side support, this happens after 10-14 days from the moment of pouring. After dismantling the formwork, it is allowed to process the steps and sides with a grinder to level the surface of your concrete stairs to the second floor.

During the entire time until the formwork has been removed, it is necessary to maintain the humidity of the concrete, water it and cover it with polyethylene, especially in hot weather. This must be done so that the concrete does not dry out before it hardens. Otherwise, it will not gain sufficient hardness, and there is a risk of cracking and destruction.

After 30-45 days from the moment of pouring, you can begin to dismantle the lower supports and the base of the foundation. This is perhaps the most responsible and exciting moment in the entire construction of the stairs. But if you followed all the recommendations, then you should not worry, during the specified time the concrete will gain the necessary strength, and the stairs can be used in full.

Finish options

After the construction process, we proceed to the final stage of finishing. Reinforced concrete stairs have a wide range of finishes:

• You can sheathe the stairs with wood - in this case, upon completion of the finish, you may get the feeling that the staircase is not made of concrete, but in fact made of wood.

• Wooden steps on a concrete staircase (insert link) - in this case, wooden treads or treads with risers are installed, and the rest of the stairs remain concrete. It must be carefully sanded, puttied and painted or tiled.

• Reinforced concrete stairs in private houses are rarely tiled, more often this option is found for stairs to the basement, for the porch or for monolithic stairs in shopping and office centers. insert link

Modern private houses, with rare exceptions, are built in two or three floors. According to this format a private house, equipped with two or three stairs - an entrance staircase and one or two interfloor structures.

The best, simplest, inexpensive and at the same time durable option is a concrete staircase, which you can make on your own without involving expensive hired labor.

Construction stages

In general, the work on the construction of a concrete staircase consists of the following main steps:

• Determining the type of stairs: single-flight, two-flight, spiral.
• Calculation of the structure: the number and dimensions of the steps, the width and length of the structure.
• Manufacture and assembly of formwork.
• Installation of the reinforcing belt.
• Pouring concrete.
• Formwork dismantling.
• Finishing concrete stairs with wood, artistic forging, ceramic tiles, mosaics or other available materials.

A two-flight and a spiral staircase made of concrete is a rather difficult project to implement with your own hands. Flights of two mid-flight stairs are erected at an angle of 90 degrees, with an intermediate platform, winder steps and other features.

Spiral staircase requires a complex special calculation of the spiral line and subsequent manufacturing and correct installation curved formwork. Therefore, it is better to trust the construction of these types of stairs to experienced professional builders. Within the framework of this article, an option will be considered - a single-flight concrete staircase to the second floor, which you can make with your own hands without experience and special education.

Calculation of the design of a single-flight staircase made of concrete

The angle of inclination of the march and the dimensions of the steps should be determined in each case, depending on the size of the room. Standard, frequently used tilt angles: 25, 35 and 45 degrees. The most preferred option is the angle of inclination of the march - 45 degrees. In this case, the stairs in the concrete house are not only safe and easy to climb, but also cost-effective. building materials.

Having determined the height and angle of the march, determine the height and width of the steps. The best option: riser height 160-200 mm, tread width 270-300 mm. The width of the march is also taken individually in each case.

If the stairs are located between two walls, the width of the structure is taken to be the distance between the walls. If the march adjoins the wall on one side, and the other side "hangs" in the air, the minimum width of the structure is 800-900 millimeters.

It is highly desirable to create a drawing or sketch of a future staircase for the correct calculation and installation of formwork parts.

Important point! Taking this or that step height, do not forget about the possible finish, the thickness of which can significantly change this size. For example, wood trim will raise the height of the step by at least 20-25 millimeters.

Formwork for concrete stairs

Assembly and installation is a very important stage of construction, on which the durability of the stairs depends. Even a small oversight and hope for the Russian "maybe" can lead to the destruction of the formwork during pouring or hardening of concrete, with all the ensuing consequences. In general, the following materials will be required to assemble the formwork:

• Waterproof plywood 12-18 mm thick, or edged planed board 25-30 mm thick for boards to form risers, side and bottom parts of the structure.
• A beam of 100x100 millimeters for supporting the lower panels (bottom) of the formwork and connecting sheets of plywood or boards.
• Steel corner and wood screws with a diameter of 3.5-4.5 mm for assembling shields.

Formwork surfaces facing concrete must be perfectly smooth. There are several ways to get the desired result: sanding, upholstering with plastic wrap or using laminated plywood.

In general, formwork assembly technology consists of the following steps:

• Installation of the lower part, made of panels assembled from plywood sheets or boards. Available combined option: plywood + boards. The lower part is laid at the calculated angle of inclination on the retaining bars. The step and the number of bars coincides with the step and the number of steps. The formwork elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, and not with traditional nails. After the concrete has hardened, it will be much easier to disassemble the formwork assembled on self-tapping screws than the structure assembled on nails.
• The next step is the installation of the side part (if one side of the stairs is adjacent to the wall) or in two parts, if one side of the stairs is “hanging in the air”. The side parts are assembled from plywood or boards, and from the outside they are reinforced with a belt of timber.
• Formation of risers. In accordance with the estimated number and dimensions of the risers, they are formed with boards or plywood fixed to the side parts or the wall using steel corners.
• Testamentary stage of installation. To make it easier to finish the pouring staircase made of concrete with one or another material, all joints facing concrete should be carefully cleaned and smoothed with an angle grinder and putty with cement-sand mortar. The formwork is ready for the installation of the reinforcing belt.

Installation and knitting of a reinforcing belt

In order for a concrete staircase in a private house to be strong and durable, its design should be strengthened. In this case, a monolithic durable concrete, which will last as long as the building of the house will stand.

A span of several steps can be reinforced with a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters laid along the bottom of the formwork at a height of at least 20-30 mm from the surface of the formwork facing the concrete.

To set a gap of 20-30 mm, use pieces of brick or special plastic stands. The pitch of the longitudinal and transverse rods is taken such that cells of 50x50 millimeters are obtained. The fittings are tied together with soft steel or copper "knitting" wire with a diameter of 0.7 to 1 mm.

To reinforce large-scale stairs, several longitudinal and vertical reinforcing meshes are used, which must be attached to the wall in one way or another. For example, using drilled holes into which pins of the appropriate diameter are driven.

Pouring concrete stairs

For pouring the structure, heavy concrete grade M200 is used. Concrete is prepared either independently according to the following recipe - 1 kg of CEM I 32.5N PC (M400) cement, 2.8 kg of sifted washed quarry sand, 4.4 kg of crushed granite with a particle fraction of at least 10-20 mm, 10 milliliters of liquid soap (plasticizer), water 0.7 liters, or place an order for the finished material by contacting the nearest concrete plant. The first option has half the cost, and the second option is better in terms of the composition of the components and more efficient in terms of construction time. Filling steps:

• Fill the formwork with concrete starting from the lower steps. Initially, 2-3 steps are filled, after which the concrete is rammed with a uniform bayonet piece of reinforcement over the entire area of ​​the filled structure.
• With the help of a trowel and a spatula, they give the steps a final look - they smooth the plane of the treads, achieving horizontality.
• The entire structure is poured, after which tamping and smoothing of the treads are carried out as in the previous case.
• The resulting structure is carefully covered with plastic wrap for 5-7 days. In hot weather, the film is moistened with water several times a day.

Formwork dismantling

This stage of construction should not be rushed. After 5-7 days, the side panels and riser formwork are carefully removed. If the concrete is still very wet and “alive”, the dismantling work should be stopped and wait a few more days.

Most the best option- wait from 20 to 28 days (if the ambient air temperature is between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius and above). This billing period time during which concrete gains 70-80% of branded strength.

Concrete staircase finishing

immediately after removing the formwork, all surfaces of the stairs are carefully cleaned angle grinders equipped with the appropriate tools: Baumesser Beton diamond cutters, Long concrete grinding diamond blades, diamond disc for concrete grinding BOSCH and other similar tools.

Further, it all depends on the imagination and personal preferences of the developer. To finish the surface of the stairs, you can use: precious wood, porcelain stoneware, ceramic floor tiles, or natural stone. The side surface and bottom can be simply plastered and coated water-based paint.

Readers of the article may be interested in the question of how the entrance staircase to the concrete house is built. Outdoor staircase made of concrete is calculated and built , almost similar to the stairs to the second floor inside the house. The difference between the technology lies in the absence of the lower support of the span and the need to build a foundation, the depth corresponding to the depth of the foundation of the house.

Now, knowing how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands, you can calculate it, purchase the necessary building materials and build this structure without involving expensive hired labor of specialists.

Concrete is the most common building material from which stairs are made today.

Scheme of reinforcement of the site for a concrete staircase.

Stairs made of concrete are distinguished by their durability and strength. Also, this material allows you to create a variety of architectural models.

It is not surprising that the owners of private houses are increasingly turning to concrete as a material from which to make a staircase. The creation of concrete stairs has been further developed due to the fact that it is possible to create concrete stairs with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders. About how to make a staircase out of concrete and how to make steps out of concrete, we will burn with you further.

Characteristics of concrete structures

Concrete staircase structures have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other staircases built from other materials. These advantages attract those who have given their preference to concrete. Concrete structures have advantages in everything: in construction technology, in a constructive solution, in physical qualities, etc.

Let's take a look at these benefits:

Scheme of a concrete staircase on the ground: 1 - Concrete, 2 - Reinforcing mesh, 3 - Crushed stone rammed into the ground, 4 - Soil, 5 - Brick, 6 - Sand layer, 7 - Concrete preparation.

1. Concrete stairs are built during the construction of the building itself. This allows you to speed up the construction process, since the steps are used even at the stage of building construction.
2. Such structures are very durable, which allows us to talk about the long term of their operation.
3. Steps of concrete structures and their other elements are perfectly combined with design ideas. A concrete staircase can, if desired, be turned into a work of art.
4. The construction technology allows you to make both steps and the entire concrete structure with your own hands, without resorting to outside professional help.
5. The concrete structure considered here, in addition to its direct purpose, also has the function of an additional frame element, increasing the reliability and strength of the building.

All these advantages have allowed concrete stair structures to gain popularity among both industrial developers and ordinary citizens, who are increasingly building them with their own hands.

Preparation for construction

As in any business, in the construction of a concrete staircase, first of all, you need to draw up a plan of action. This plan includes all design actions, diagrams and drawings. Drawing up drawings must be verified and accurate. You do not need to hand over the building to a special commission, but the life and health of your own household depend on the quality of your work.

First of all, you will need to calculate such a parameter as the height of the step. Usually, a value of 17 cm is taken for this indicator. Next comes the depth of the step. It should be comfortable for the foot. Usually the shoe size 45 is taken for the template. The width of the flight of stairs must also be accurately calculated. This value should include the width of the step and the width of the railing. Elements such as the flight of stairs, the lower and upper thresholds, the length of the stairs and the slope angle are also calculated.

The final step in building a staircase with your own hands is its cleaning and leveling. After stripping, some time must pass before the final shrinkage of the concrete occurs, and the ladder can be used for its intended purpose.

You will need the following tools:

1. Concrete pump. This device will be needed for concrete supply.
2. Concrete mixer.
3. Shovels.
4. Templates.
5. Master OK
6. Formwork boards.
7. Waterproof plywood for formwork.
8. Metal rods for reinforcement.
9. Bundles of thin rods or wire.
10. Hammers and mallets.
11. Saw.

Construction works

Scheme of installation of concrete stairs.

Do-it-yourself staircase construction begins with the creation of formwork. It must be strong and rigid. Anyone who has ever made formwork knows how important this element is. The formwork is made according to stencils that were made in advance according to the drawings.

For formwork, boards are used to create the frame of the future staircase. This kind of frame is created for each step. Only the sides of the steps are fenced. Care must be taken to ensure that the mounted boards fit snugly against each other. It is necessary to avoid the appearance of cracks through which the concrete mixture can seep. To fully guarantee the tightness of the formwork, another layer of waterproof plywood is applied to the boards.

Further, the future steps and the threshold are reinforced with a reinforcing frame. You can make it with your own hands from steel reinforcement by welding. Such a frame gives an additional threshold of strength and creates the basis for the future concrete coating. Steel reinforcement is laid along the flight of stairs, at the bottom of future steps. Laying of rods occurs both along the march and across. In places where they cross, a connection is made by means of a wire.

Before concreting, do not forget about future railings. For them, make special holes in the formwork, which are filled with wooden plugs. The starting point should be the lower threshold of the stairs.

After all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed to the main operation. It is the final concreting of the staircase structure. This operation can be carried out both manually and with the help of a concrete pump. The latter option is more preferable. First, the upper threshold is poured, after which the pouring continues throughout the entire staircase structure from top to bottom.

Filling should be done only at a positive temperature. Otherwise, the concrete is heated. Filling is carried out at the same time for the entire flight of stairs. The starting point is the upper threshold of the stairs. After the concrete mixture has entered the formwork, it is compacted, cleaned and leveled by means of shovels and trowels.

After stripping, some time must pass before the final shrinkage of the concrete occurs and the ladder can be used for its intended purpose. To speed up this stage, it is recommended to cover the flooded stairs with plastic wrap.

How to make steps out of concrete: a guide

How to make stairs out of concrete? As in any business, in the construction of a concrete staircase, first of all, you need to draw up a plan of action.

A country house or cottage usually begins with a porch, to which a small ladder leads. How to fill the steps with concrete and do it right with minimal financial and time costs? To get a general idea after reading the material, you should watch a video that clearly demonstrates the process of step formation. Construction work is carried out in several stages.

Manufacturing technology of concrete porch

We calculate materials

Steel reinforcing bar for the construction of a concrete porch

The manufacture of stairs begins with calculations of the required amount of materials and drawing up drawings. At this stage, the number of steps of the stairs is determined based on the height of the platform from ground level. According to the requirements of SNiP 21-01-97 and GOST 9818, the difference between the support platforms should not exceed 220 mm, and its width should be at least 250 mm. Steps filled with concrete with my own hands, are heavy, and in order to avoid their subsidence, it is necessary to provide a foundation.

Having determined the dimensions of one step and their total number, we calculate the volumes of required building materials, such as:

1. cement brand 500;
2. sifted quarry sand;
3. crushed stone of fine and medium fraction;
4. steel reinforcing bar;
5. lumber: boards and timber for the manufacture of formwork.

Taking into account these data, the total construction price is set as the sum of the cost for all positions. The involvement of hired specialists will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure by about half.

Formwork filling with concrete mix

Site preparation for work

To answer the question "how to fill in the steps for your porch" you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of the operation. You should start with leveling and marking the site. To carry out land work with your own hands, you will need shovels and bayonet shovels, as well as a tape measure, pegs and a cord. When laying a rectangular porch base, it is imperative to check the diagonals.

On the marked area, soil is sampled to a depth of at least 250-300 mm and a sand cushion is poured. The layer is leveled and compacted by moistening and tamping with special device. A steel bar is used to reinforce the base of the porch and strengthen the steps formed by one's own hands. The strength-enhancing structure is welded or wire-knitted and installed before the concrete is poured into the stairs.

The presence of reinforcement increases the reliability of the structure

The next step is the manufacture and installation of formwork. High-quality pouring of steps with concrete, the price of which will be minimal, is possible only when all operations are performed by oneself. The formwork is made of edged boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more, for the connection of which nails and timber are used. The width of the formwork parts should be equal to the height of the steps, and the horizontality of the upper edges should be checked with a level. Boards are installed and held by hand, and then nailed to the frame.

Preparation of cement-sand mixture and concreting stairs

Do-it-yourself pouring of the steps of the porch is done with ready-made compounds, which are delivered by specially equipped vehicles. Another option for erecting a porch is the preparation of cement-sand mixtures using a concrete mixer or manually in a container suitable for these purposes. The pouring of steps with concrete is carried out starting from the lower step, in layers, with interruptions necessary for the composition to dry.

Formwork manufacturing process

Making your own mixes will reduce the cost of building a porch. The process is carried out as follows: sand is poured into the trough, into which crushed stone and cement are added. The composition is mixed manually with a shovel until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Then water is added to the mixture in small portions with constant stirring. The consistency of concrete should correspond to the density of sour cream.

How to fill in the porch steps and get a solid structure? First of all, you should choose the right ratio of components.

Definition method required amount constituent parts concrete is as follows. Crushed stone is poured into the bucket to the upper level, then water is poured along the edge. The volume of liquid will correspond to the amount of sand and cement to be added to the concrete.

When doing work on your own, the question arises - how to fill in the steps of a low porch and do it right. Despite the apparent complexity of this process, it is quite possible to perform it without the involvement of specialists, and after that - also make an aesthetic finish of the porch and show us a photo.

For basic skills construction works and the formation of an understanding of how to concrete the steps of the porch, the video given in this article will be very helpful. Write to us what you got as a result, share your experience with us.

Everything is well written and clear and understandable, but in terms of preparing the solution, it somehow seems to me that they have complicated it. Although it is understandable, you will not please milestones. So, if you mix it yourself, you should carefully read the instructions of the cement manufacturer, usually placed on the back of the bag, the proportions may vary depending on the brand of cement and additives in it. Take for example 1 bag of Master Universal cement (CEM II / A-K (Sh-I) 42.5N, grade 500), then to get class B 20 concrete we need 55 liters. crushed stone, 90 sand and 30 water, and to obtain class B 25 concrete, you need to take 45 liters. rubble, 80 sand and 25 water. But if, again, we buy cement of a different brand (for example, Master PRO CEM I 42.5B, strength 500) from the same manufacturer, we will see that we need 70 liters to obtain class B 20 concrete. crushed stone, 110 sand and 30 water, and to obtain class B 25 concrete, you need to take 55 liters. rubble, 90 sand and 25 water. Hence the conclusion, in the production of concrete work, study the recommendations of the manufacturer and get the result that you expect to get and not overpay for it. Good work and excellent results.

Thank you very much for such an extensive and interesting answer 🙂 Indeed, cement brands are quite different, but here everyone has their own approach - and yours is very practical 🙂

How to pour steps for a concrete porch with your own hands (video)

It is told how to pour concrete steps on your own. How to properly prepare the surface and prepare the mixture. Walkthrough.

The porch is the most important part of the exterior. country house. A beautifully executed entrance is a real decoration of the entire building, a detail that attracts attention and creates a sense of solidity. In this article, we will consider the simplest and most accessible method for everyone, with which you can build concrete steps for the porch with their own hands.

Advantages of concrete steps for a porch

Concrete mortar is just a great material for building steps. A staircase made of such material, reinforced with reinforcement, can serve the owners for decades without repair (see also the article “ Cesspool from concrete rings suburban area: practical advice for independent construction).

A porch of this kind, regardless of whether ready-made concrete steps were used for the porch during its creation or not, has the following important characteristics:

• No noise. Such steps do not creak like wood and do not create a hum effect. The monolith absorbs all possible sounds;
• Not afraid of rust, rotting processes and insects;
• Not afraid of fires and high temperatures;
• Can be veneered with any finishing material. Thus, it is possible to hide the concrete accessory and design the structure as a wooden one, for example;
• Repair in the presence of any damage on such a product will be inexpensive;
• A porch made of concrete can be endowed with the most unimaginable shape and have any required size.

Technology for the construction of steps for arranging the porch of a building

Ready-made monolithic structure

The external attractiveness of the porch directly depends on the quality of all construction work and compliance with existing building codes and regulations (see also the article “Mosaic concrete for the manufacture of a beautiful floor with marble chips”).

Violation of technology during the construction of even such a seemingly insignificant structural element can result in the following defects:

• The formation of cracks on the walls associated with the porch;
• Peeling of the finishing decorative layer from the surface of the porch;
• Subsidence of the porch relative to the building itself.

Correcting such defects is difficult, and in some cases even impossible.

Advice. Following all the rules during the construction process will allow you to avoid the time and effort associated with dismantling a reinforced monolithic product and erecting a new one, which can double such a parameter as the price of erecting a concrete porch.

In order to save your own forces and means, it is important to follow three basic rules:

• The depth of the foundations of the porch and the house are equal;
• The porch, even what is being built near the house, should be one with its foundation; Council. The connection of the foundations of the house and the porch is made by means of mutual reinforcement.
• You should not save on waterproofing the structure to avoid the cost of regular repairs. Tip. When erecting this element of the structure, one should not be too presumptuous and, subject to the lack of experience in the production of such work, one should still use the finished project.

  Materials and tools required for work

  For the construction of the porch, you will certainly need the following tools and materials:

  • Portland cement;
  • gravel-sand mixture;
  • Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 6.5 mm;
  • Wire for knitting fittings;
  • Perforator with a set of drills for concrete;
  • Special equipment with the help of which diamond drilling of holes in concrete can be carried out;
  • Vibrator for compaction of the solution;

  

  • Boards for the construction of formwork;
  • Bars as formwork racks;
  • Bulgarian - a tool with which reinforced concrete will be cut with diamond wheels;
  • Concrete mixer;
  • Electric saw for cutting boards and formwork bars;
  • Shovels of two types: shovel and bayonet;
  • Hammer with nails for the construction of formwork;
  • Wheelbarrow for moving the solution;
  • waterproofing material;
  • Tool for knitting reinforcing wire.

  

  Tool for knitting reinforcing corset

  

  Before starting work, the area for arranging the porch must be prepared:

  • The construction site must be cleared;
  • You should make markings under the foundation of the porch;
  • Digging a foundation pit;
  • Installation of wooden formwork for pouring the foundation;
  • Installation of fittings under the porch;

  Advice. To implement the method of mutual reinforcement, holes for reinforcement should be drilled in the foundation of the house.

  • The prepared trench is covered with concrete mortar;

  Advice. The solution is prepared from Portland cement and sand-gravel mixture in a ratio of 1/4. Water is added to the solution until a mass of the consistency of liquid porridge is obtained.

  • Using a vibrator for concrete, we compact the structure;

  

  Pouring the foundation under the porch

  • We cover the poured foundation with burlap and let it harden for 3 days;
  • We remove the formwork and cover the concrete with roofing material or cover it with molten tar.

  Construction of formwork for steps

  After the foundation is ready, it's time to think about the construction of the most concrete porch steps.

  Instructions for arranging the porch consists in the implementation of the following actions:

• First you need to deal with the existing drawing. If there is no drawing, you should calculate the number of steps depending on the height of the porch; Tip. The height of each step should not be more than 20 cm, and the width should not exceed 30 cm. The width of the porch should protrude 20-30 cm on each side front door.
• Next, we install the wooden formwork according to the drawing or the calculations made at the previous stage;
• The formwork for pouring a concrete monolithic porch must be a sealed product, so we line its bottom with an additional layer of roofing material;

  

  In the photo - formwork covered with roofing material

• In order to save on the amount of mortar, gravel or a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the formwork at an angle from the wall of the building;
• We install fittings. Do not forget to insert the ends of the reinforcing bars into the ones made on preparatory stage holes in the foundation of the building; Council. If it is planned to build a railing, then at this stage reinforcement should be made in such a way that the branches of the rods rise 4-5 cm above the level of the steps.
• We fill the created structure with concrete and use a vibrator to ram the solution to prevent the formation of voids in the monolithic structure;

  

  Formwork filled with mortar

• We leave the structure to harden for 3 days, after which we remove the formwork. Decorative porch steps

  

  Decorating the porch with cladding

  For decoration, concrete tiles for the steps of the porch, decorative or natural stone, or ceramic tiles. The side walls can be decorated with bricks, foundation siding and other facade finishing materials suitable for the design of the building.

  

  One of the design options

  Concrete steps for a porch are an excellent, durable product that, if properly finished, can please the owners of the building with its convenience and visual appeal for more than one year (read also the article “Slag concrete - everything you need to know about this type of material”).

  It is absolutely easy to build such a structure with your own hands, but in order for the final structure to be durable, you should take care in advance not only of using quality materials but about compliance with building codes.

  You can learn more about what concrete steps are like by watching the video in this article.

  How to make steps for a porch of concrete in the country with your own hands

  
  How to make steps for a concrete porch in a country house with your own hands The porch is the most important component of the exterior of a country house. A beautifully executed entrance is a real

How to fill in the steps of the porch of monolithic concrete

A monolithic concrete porch is one of the most durable solutions for country house. A wooden porch will begin to creak in a couple of years and will require repair even with constant care, brickwork also begins to break down over time.

The most durable option concrete base porch, which can then be finished with porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone according to your own taste. Knowing how to properly fill the steps of the porch, you can provide him with great strength for many years.

Why choose a concrete porch

Do-it-yourself steps for the porch made of concrete can be made by any homeowner. Construction does not require special skills, tools or equipment; all you need is to cook concrete mortar and build formwork. This is just one of the many advantages for choosing a concrete porch:

• Design variety. A concrete porch can have almost any shape: it is not only a classic square or rectangle, but also a semicircle, semi-oval, polyhedron, etc. It can have a different number of steps, it will not be difficult to build a solid porch even for a house with a high door. You can choose from a variety of facing materials to give it a unique look.
• Great strength. Hardened concrete is able to retain all its characteristics for many years, especially if you take care of its lining. It is able to withstand high humidity, temperature fluctuations and other weather vagaries.
• No noise. Unlike wooden steps, concrete steps will never creak or sag. In addition, they will remain perfectly even for a long time, especially if you take care of a durable lining of ceramic tiles or natural stone.

Preparatory work: design and necessary calculations

How to make concrete steps for a porch? First of all, you need to calculate the number and location of future steps, the cost of material and the installation of formwork.

The width of the porch should be at least 15 cm more than the width of the front door, the length of the usual step is one and a half meters. This will be enough for the descending and ascending person to calmly disperse on the porch.

If it is planned to build a large platform in front of the house, the steps can be made wider. If small children or people with disabilities live in the house handicapped, you should think in advance about the place for the location of the ramp.

The height of the step is on average 16-17 cm, and the width of the tread should be at least 26-30 cm, so that it is convenient to put your foot on it. The slope of the porch should not exceed 45 degrees, otherwise it will be difficult to climb, especially for older people. If there are more than three steps, the project must necessarily provide for the installation of metal railings with handrails and decorative overlays.

The height of the porch should correspond to the height of the basement of the house. There should be a few centimeters between it and the bottom of the door: during shrinkage, the height of the foundation may decrease slightly, and then the door will be difficult to open.

A minimum of 3 centimeters must be left even if the door is made of wood. Wood tends to swell, and the door may begin to cling to the porch platform.

Before you make steps for the porch of concrete, you need to prepare drawings on which all dimensions must be indicated. After that, you can proceed to the preparation of the concrete base and the construction of the porch.

Preparatory work and installation of formwork

The ideal solution is to include the porch in the project of the house, then it is built on the same foundation and becomes its full-fledged part. However, this happens very rarely: usually the owner then thinks about adding concrete steps, and then he has to solve the issue of attaching the porch to the main foundation and the basement of the house.

How to fill the steps of the porch? Preparatory work begins with clearing the area and creating a foundation pit for a solid base of the porch. A monolithic structure is heavy, so care must be taken that it has its own foundation with a high bearing capacity.

On a cleared site of the required size, the top layer of soil is removed and a foundation pit is dug up to a depth of 70 cm. A sandy compacted “cushion”, a reinforcing cage is laid in it, and a formwork is installed.

After that, the new foundation is poured with concrete. As a concrete solution, a mixture of frost-resistant Portland cement with sand and gravel is used, the proportion of cement and sand-gravel mixture is 1: 4.

Water is gradually added to the solution, and after mixing it turns into a liquid homogeneous mass. At least three days are allotted for the solution to dry, only after that you can proceed directly to the construction of steps.

Formwork installation and pouring steps

A waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid on the base, after which the formwork is installed.

It can be assembled from plywood, in some cases, durable boards are used for this.

The formwork is assembled according to the drawings: it should rise 30 cm above the porch.

If the porch is large, stiffening ribs are nailed to the sides of the formwork panels, in addition, it is necessary to ensure their stability after pouring the concrete mix, so they are provided with side supports.

Tip: The inside of the formwork must be lubricated so that concrete mortar does not stick to it. This will allow in the future to freely remove the formwork, separating it from the dried concrete. Its surface will be smooth, this will simplify the cladding work in the future.

Filling works are carried out in several stages:

1. The side parts of the formwork are installed, after which boards are attached to them for pouring steps. They are placed in such a way that the treads have a slight slope of up to 5 degrees. This will ensure a quick flow of water, and frost will not form on the steps in winter and autumn.
2. Stair reinforcement. With the help of wire, the reinforcing mesh is connected, in addition, vertical reinforcement is installed. The ends of the reinforcing bars should go into the holes drilled in the foundation of the house so that the porch and foundation are firmly connected to each other.
3. The concrete solution is poured. The work is carried out in layers: first, the first stage is poured, then it needs to be allowed to dry and the next part should be poured. So that there are no air cavities left, the filled solution is pierced with fittings or sticks, you can also use a special building vibrator.

The final part of the work is the filling of the upper platform. The concrete is leveled with a slight slope: the water on the site should not stagnate.

• The porch must be allowed to dry completely. The larger it is, the longer this process will take. In order for the solution to dry evenly, it is necessary to moisten the top layer with water, otherwise it may crack in the sun.

When the concrete is completely dry, the formwork is dismantled, and you can proceed to the installation of railings and decorative cladding.

Installing a railing on a concrete porch

For a classic concrete porch fence, forged metal railings are used, they will provide reliable support and safety when moving up the stairs. Railings must be installed on a high porch, but they will be quite appropriate on a small porch.

The standard height for adults is 90 cm, and additional child rails can be added at a height of 40 cm. The width of the rail is about 7 cm, which is most convenient for the human palm.

Metal racks are installed on concrete steps using flanges or other fasteners; forged or welded gratings made of metal rods can be used as filling. Such products can be ordered ready-made in workshops, since working with metal on your own is quite difficult. Metal handrails are welded onto the racks, which are covered with overlays made of wood or plastic.

Decorative cladding of concrete steps

Ordinary concrete does not differ in design diversity, however, it can and should be faced with one of the most common finishing materials. Facing will increase the durability of the porch, as it will cover the concrete base of the steps from the negative effects of natural forces. In addition, it will allow you to give the porch a unique design variety, and it will look very nice.

What is the best way to decorate a porch? Several common options can be listed:

1. Ceramic tiles. Porcelain stoneware is a white clay with the addition of special mineral components.

After firing at high temperature it acquires very high strength, so the lining will last a very long time. Thanks to the addition of special pigments, tiles can have a wide variety of colors.

The facing tiles are laid first on the top platform of the porch, then on the treads and risers, and then on the sides. For its laying, a tile adhesive composition is used, which is prepared from dry mixes in desired proportion. Laying tiles will allow you to get a smooth and beautiful coating.

You can find out detailed and extended information on the topic of the article from the book “ Wooden houses”, which reflects all stages of building a house, starting with laying the foundation and ending with the installation of the roof. The price of the book = 77 rubles.

You may also be interested in other BOOKS on building wooden houses with your own hands.

Other publications.