How to strengthen the walls of the drain pit with slate. Cesspool of slate. Strengthening the walls of the drain pit using improvised materials

We have already written about the construction of cesspools using tires, concrete rings and a barrel, today we will write to you about how to build sewer well from asbestos slate. It's about using flat slate, but this does not mean that this task cannot be coped with with the help of wavy slate.

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of the well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat sheets of slate;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
cart.

Note that in the same way you can equip a pit for country toilet, but this is us, by the way.

How to build a cesspool with slate

Dig a hole. As you probably already guessed, the pit should be rectangular, preferably square. To develop the soil, you will need a shovel and a cart, as well as buckets. As for the depth of the hole, it's up to you.

When the pit is ready, start organizing metal frame. You need to weld a frame frame made of steel corners under the bottom of the pit. You will need two of these frames. After one of them must be laid on the bottom of the pit. Pipes must be welded at the corners of the lower frame, and then at the corners of the upper. As a result, you will get a rectangular frame.

At the next stage, you need to start arranging the walls of the well. Everything is simple here. The task is to cut required amount pieces of flat slate, and then lower it into the pit, sewing up all sides of the rectangular frame. Self-tapping screws can be used to fix the slate.

When ready, the space between the slate and the walls of the pit must be covered with soil, and then rammed. Well, then you need to make a cover. If the pit was made for the installation of a toilet, you need to proceed with its installation.

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Practical fences

Until recently, slate has been the most common roofing material with many performance benefits. Today, its popularity has fallen slightly, more modern materials: bituminous tiles and metal tiles. It is a pity to throw away the old coating, which is why many in the country have warehouses of old slate sheets. It's a pity to throw it away, and you don't need to do it.

You can easily assemble and make a temporary toilet, a summer shower from slate sheets, you can build fences out of it, covering them with a fence made of chain-link mesh, for example. Such a solution will protect the personal plot from the prying eyes of passers-by and the penetration of neighbors' dogs.

A standard slate sheet has a length of 175 cm, the sheet is cut in half and simply with an overlap on the netting, it is dug into the ground with the lower edge, to a depth of 40 cm. If desired, slate is easy to paint by picking up correct color, it is easy to easily integrate into the style of your site.

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the backyard from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold on the edge of the neighbor's plot with their roots.

Shelves in the cellar

Another way to use the old slate was suggested by experienced summer residents and gardeners. To store supplies, they propose to build comfortable and durable shelves using slate, allowing you to organize convenient system storage for available supplies. Shelves are constructed as follows:

At the corners of the pantry, brick racks are laid, the length of which must match the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the ribs of the slate.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
They pour a sheet of slate, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete- strong enough capacious shelf on which it is easy to place any container for storage of vegetables and fruit.

If the cellar is large, such shelves can be placed around the perimeter, made short or long. Many will think that using boards in this case is easier than slate, but the use of the material described, as practice shows, helps to save a lot. In addition, the slate does not need to be removed from the formwork. It can be painted or whitewashed with lime. Then the shelves will look quite neat.

Slate beds

If there is a garden in the country house, with the help of slate it is easy to assemble neat beds. It's easy to make them yourself. Look at the photo, how decorative this garden looks. The use of slate has quite practical purposes. Such structures help to keep the soil within the same bed.

Such a partition is a reliable barrier to rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate needs to be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are being dug around the perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are laid in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and tamp the soil around the installed sheet parts.
In order to give the walls of the beds greater stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves on the beds are horizontal, the shoots of plants and their roots can easily grow along the depressions.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically located waves will not become an obstacle to weeding the beds.

It is best to cut the slate with a grinder. Experienced craftsmen during the performance of such work direct the angle grinder in the direction opposite to the direction of the wind. In this case, the dust will be blown away from the cutting person. Since asbestos dust is dangerous for humans, it is necessary to protect yourself from it during work by putting on goggles over your eyes and covering your nose with a gauze bandage. You can not use a saw for wood to cut slate. This is a traumatic job, one wrong move can deprive a hand.

Benefits of using slate fencing

Experienced gardeners today make not only beds from slate sheets, they collect flower beds with it, lay slate on greenhouses. It turns out durable and reliable garden path, covered with flat sheets. Practicality and decorativeness are not the only advantages of such a solution.

Slate is a material that quickly heats up in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This favorably affects the growth of any plants.
It is difficult to destroy the garden fence assembled with the help of asbestos-cement sheets.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forget with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on buying wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color, painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

If you want to repeat a similar experiment in your garden, it is useful to study in advance the shortcomings of asbestos-cement products. On hot summer days, such a fence will contribute to overheating of the soil, so the plants will need to be watered more often. In places where long rains are a common occurrence, the soil under the fence is often washed out, so they constantly tilt. This forces the owner of the garden to constantly straighten the fence. For many, this procedure will seem tedious.

Foundation and pit latrine

Old slate sheets are often used to equip formwork for pouring foundations for outbuildings. In this case, after the concrete has hardened, the formwork does not need to be removed.

Since on personal plot often there is no central sewerage, toilet and engineering Communication, serving the kitchen and bathroom, cannot function without a cesspool. Slate in this case is used to strengthen its walls. Sheets are cut to the size of the walls of the pit, just go down. In order for the sheets not to fall, they are fastened together with the corners of the reinforcement. Further, reinforcement bars are laid in the gap between the pit and the slate sheets. The cracks are filling up cement mortar. In order for the walls of the cesspool to withstand the pressure, they are bursting with wooden blocks, as shown in the photo.

After the concrete has dried, the toilet pit is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

Many, after reading the article, will put forward a lot of arguments in favor of refusing to use the described material. But experts are in a hurry to reassure everyone. The described material is made from a mixture of three ingredients: Portland cement, asbestos fiber and water. The first two components are completely safe for human health. But asbestos fiber can arouse suspicion.

There are several varieties of this material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural basis);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

European scientists conducted research and found out that slate of the first variety can be called dangerous for humans. In Russia, amphibole-asbestos for the production roofing material does not apply. Therefore, for those who are afraid for their health, experts recommend purchasing slate of domestic brands. It can be used in the garden easily without fear.

As you can see, the use of old slate helps to solve purely practical tasks on the household plot. You can make a temporary toilet, outdoor shower, build a greenhouse or any fence using waste.

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself grill from a gas cylinder

montazhnik02.ru

How to replace a cesspool

The function of a cesspool is performed by a metal container (for example, a bucket) with a capacity of 12-15 liters. As it is filled, the contents of the container are sprinkled on top with a certain amount of ash, peat or sawdust from a box specially installed for this purpose. The approximate period for filling the collection tank is 10-14 days.

It is better to empty the prefabricated containers into the ground to a considerable depth (about 1 meter).

It is done like this. By using garden drill a hole with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of about 1 m is drilled in the ground at the border of the near-trunk circle of a fruit tree or at the level of its crown. A collection tank is emptied into this well and again covered with excavated soil. There is a kind of sealing of feces in the main soil. The next emptying can be done nearby, retreating in a circle by 20-25 cm.

Before emptying the collection tank, a small amount of slowly decomposing waste (broken glass, ceramics, etc.) can be placed in the drilled hole.

Construction of a toilet in the country

Country toilet project

Making a toilet booth is akin to building a model of a house: a blueprint (sketch), marking on the ground, foundation, lower trim, erecting walls, upper trim and rafter system, roofing, flooring, door hinge, glazing, interior design And exterior finish. All elements of construction are simplified, minimized, almost toy, but they allow you to gain experience and work out working methods.

The project (sketch) determines the shape, basic dimensions of the toilet, as well as the initial building materials and their quantity. The appearance of the future structure is determined by the presence of one or another building material.

Usually the toilet is made of wood, but you can use asbestos-cement board (flat slate) and even foam concrete blocks. The most common form of toilet - "birdhouse" - is the most rational: it is technologically advanced, has a large functional volume.

If the project (sketch) is drawn up, that is, the main dimensions are determined, the site is marked on the spot: pegs are hammered and cords are pulled that define the boundaries of the structure. The squareness of such a small area can be set using an unfolded newspaper sheet, and the accuracy can be checked with a tape measure, measuring the diagonals.

Below you can see a few examples drawings of country toilet projects. To view, click on any of the images.

Drawings of country toilets

Toilet foundation

For most designs of toilet booths, four 260x330x440 mm concrete blocks, installed at the corners, will be suitable as a foundation. To install them, you only need to remove the top soil layer (15-20 cm). It is important that the top surfaces of the blocks lie in the same plane.
Plane control can be carried out using a level and a piece of a suitable board. Two or three layers of roofing material are placed on top of each block for waterproofing.

The lower trim is installed on the foundation blocks. The easiest way to make it is from pieces of timber, connected “in half a tree” and pulled together with brackets (the bar of the bracket is recessed into a specially hollowed-out nest on the surface of the bars). It is preferable to use an edged board for the lower trim (thickness 40 or 50 mm).

The sides of the lower trim are made from two pieces of edged board, knocked down with nails through a spacer of the same thickness, as shown in the figure below.

In this case, grooves are naturally obtained in the lower trim, into which the spikes of the enclosing walls can then be inserted. The fastening of the sides of the lower trim is carried out using capercaillie screws (diameter 8-10 mm).

Walling

The walls of the toilet booth, due to their small size, can be made in the form of panels from upholstery (lining). Pieces of upholstery board of a given size are stuffed onto two planed frame boards, which have the same thickness as the bottom trim boards. The front shield is stuffed onto three boards so that you can decorate the doorway.

To give the shields rigidity between the frame boards, it is necessary to cut a strut. The pictures below show the front, rear and side shields. The parts of the frame boards protruding in the lower part of the shields are spikes, which, when mounting the booth, are inserted into the grooves of the lower trim.

The installation of the walls consists in the sequential installation of the shields in the grooves of the lower trim and the fastening of the frame boards of adjacent shields with the help of capercaillie screws (3-4 pieces per corner). In fact, these capercaillie screws perform the function of the upper strapping, as they give the necessary rigidity to the entire building.

The roof of the country toilet

truss system- just two boards cut into the upper part of the side shields (figure below).

A crate is stuffed onto these two boards, which is best made solid from the lining face down. In this case, it is not necessary to hem the ceiling and roof overhangs.

A reliable and simple roof is obtained from two layers of roofing material. Ruberoid is attached to the crate
felt buttons with a frequency of 15-20 cm.

Flooring

The floor is laid from a cut board 50 mm thick. The front and side surfaces of the floorboards are cleanly trimmed and nailed to the inner boards of the lower trim with gaps (slots) of 5-10 mm. The gaps will facilitate ventilation, as well as drying the floor after wet cleaning.

door hardware

The door to the toilet consists of a frame with a brace and trim. The brace cuts along the diagonal of the frame, passing from the upper corner of the narthex to the lower loop. Sheathing is made of lining, located vertically. It is advisable to equip the door with a padlock for locking at the end of the season.

Container for toilet

The collection container is placed in the frame shown in the figure below.

The frame is made of bars with a section of 40 × 40 mm or 50 × 50 mm. In the frame, the front wall is completely sewn up with clapboard, and the upper wall, in which a hole is cut, is made completely removable. In this form, this structure is the most convenient for hygienic cleaning (washing and roasting in the sun). The removable top cover allows you to conveniently fix the simplest "apron" (a piece of vinyl chloride film). In the powder-closet booth there should also be a box or other container with peat, ash or sawdust.

Flat slate toilet

Wood, of course, is the most accessible and technologically advanced material, but if for other buildings (garage, utility block) it is supposed to use an asbestos-cement slab (flat slate), then it is suitable for a toilet booth.

To work with an asbestos-cement slab, you will need an electric cutting machine (grinder), equipped with an abrasive for stone or diamond cutting disc. Asbestos-cement sheets 8-10 mm thick are cut so that the front, back and both side walls of the toilet booth are obtained (similar to Figure 2 above). These walls are assembled on screws using frame boards, and then the installation is carried out in the same way as described above. In this case, the door leaf is also made of an asbestos-cement sheet fixed to wooden frame, which is used for inserting hinges, constipation and other mounting devices.

For the convenience and safety of using products from asbestos-cement sheets, it is desirable to cover them with film-forming compounds (varnish, drying oil, paint, etc.).

Video

Do-it-yourself country toilet

5domov.ru

What kind of toilet to make in the country

Before starting construction, you need to choose the type of country toilet. It's not about the house, but about it internal arrangement. According to the type of device, they can be divided into two large groups: with or without a cesspool. If the groundwater level in the area is high - higher than 3.5 meters - your choice is limited only to toilets without a cesspool, otherwise the remains of waste products will inevitably end up in the water. Similar restrictions are imposed on areas at the base of which there are natural cracks, as well as on shale rocks. On other soils with deeper aquifers, you can install a booth of any design.

With cesspool

When choosing this option, you need to take into account that the depth of the pit should be 1 meter less than the highest groundwater level (usually spring). Its volume is selected depending on the frequency of visits and the number of people. For example, in houses of permanent residence for 2-3 people, a volume of 1.5 cubic meters is enough. For dachas visited mainly on weekends, the cesspool for the toilet may be smaller.

The shape of the container is any, but more often they make it square, sometimes round. The walls are laid out of brick, concrete, rubble masonry, tarred wood. You can make a container from concrete rings. Only in this case it will be necessary to worry about the tightness of the joints and the bottom.

To ensure tightness, a layer of rammed clay (clay castle) with a thickness of 20-30 cm is made under the masonry and on the sides.

A cesspool toilet for a summer residence must be equipped with a ventilation system. A pipe of large diameter (at least 100 mm) is built into the pit, the second end of which rises at least 50-70 cm above the roof of the house (or house). Also, a ventilation window is made in the house itself. It can be on the door or on one of the side walls.

When filling more than 2/3 of the volume, the contents of the pit are pumped out by the machine with a sewer. When planning a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands, keep in mind that a car should drive up to the pit.

There are two types of cesspool organization:

Normal - under the house.
Backlash closet - the pit is located to the side. With such a structure, the toilet bowl can stand in the house, and sewage through pipes laid at a certain slope enter the container.

Building a backlash closet in a country house is a very expensive undertaking, unless you decide to make an extension anyway or your dacha is a full-fledged residential building in which a lot of time is spent. You will need a complete ventilation system, water for flushing, and pipes will need to be laid below the freezing depth of the soil. And since they must go at an angle, the cesspool also descends to a decent depth.

When installing a toilet of this type, it is important to withstand the slope of the pipe - it should be 2-3 cm per meter. No need to do more or less - just in this range. If you make the slope less, there is a risk that the content will stagnate. If you do more, then the water will run away, and solid and heavier inclusions will remain in the pipe and will spread "aromas".

Read about methods for eliminating odors in an outdoor toilet with a pit latrine.

Without cesspool

For the most part, pitless toilets are built much easier and faster. In them, waste is collected in a sealed container, which is usually placed directly under the toilet seat. The difference lies in how the waste is recycled and the odor is neutralized. There are the following types:

Powder closet. Another container with peat, ash, sawdust, earth or a mixture of these components is placed in the booth. After visiting the toilet, the waste is covered with a layer of this powder - powdered. Hence the name.
Peat toilet. This is a kind of closet powder. But only crushed peat is used for powdering. Peat toilets are also industrially made. They are very similar to the usual apartment toilets with a tank. But in the tank is not water, but a crumb of peat. After visiting the toilet, you need to turn the handle on the tank several times, from where peat will fall.
Bio toilet. Waste enters a container filled with a solution containing microorganisms that process them. These stalls are often seen as outdoor toilets in cities. Dry closets are sold both together with plastic booths, and separately - only a toilet bowl with a container.
Chemical toilet. The principle of processing is the same as in a dry closet, only they use not microorganisms, but chemical substances. They usually come in the form of powders or tablets. The waste processed in this way cannot be used as fertilizer. They periodically need to be drained into the sewer.

The advantages of country toilets without a cesspool (also called dry) are significant:

you do not need to dig a hole and fiddling with its sealing;
no need to call a sewer (pay for it) and organize an entrance for the car;
built quickly;
recycled waste can be used as fertilizer.

The cons are big too:

Factory-made toilets are not that cheap.
It is necessary to change the container periodically.
It is necessary to monitor the availability of means of neutralization.

How to make inexpensive, but beautiful path to the toilet read here.

Norms for installing a toilet on the site

Most of the restrictions apply to pit latrines: possible contamination must be limited. The rules are:

To the source of water - lakes, rivers, wells, wells, etc. - must be at least 25 meters. This also applies to sources located in neighboring areas.
To the basement or cellar - at least 12 meters.
The nearest inhabited building - a shower, baths - is at least 8 meters away.
To buildings where animals are kept - at least 4 meters.
The nearest trees should be 4 meters away, bushes - 1 meter.

The rest of the rules are valid for all types of toilets:

There must be at least 1 meter to the boundary of the site.
Doors should not open towards the adjacent area.
When choosing a location, the prevailing wind direction must be taken into account.

When choosing a place where you will build a toilet for a summer cottage with your own hands, pay attention not only to your own buildings and objects, but also to your neighbors. This will help to avoid friction with them and with the sanitation station.

If you are going to build a toilet with a cesspool, you must also add to all the listed requirements - the organization of an entrance for a sewage truck.

The construction of a country shower is described in this article.

How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands

You have already gone through the first two steps: you have chosen the type of toilet and the place to install it. The next step is choosing the dimensions. It's not that hard to figure them out. They told how to choose the volume of the cesspool - 1.5 cubic meters is enough for 2-3 people, now about what size the toilet house should be. It all depends on your own desire and on the dimensions of the owners. IN standard version make toilets in the following sizes:

height - 220 cm;
width - 150 cm;
depth - 100 cm.

These dimensions are convenient for people with an average build. You can change them the way you like. There are no standards.

Houses for toilets are most often made of wood. But this is not the rule. He may be from sheet material type fiberboard, GVL, flat slate, brick and any other building materials, profiled sheet metal, even plastic.

The most favorite roofing material for a country toilet is slate. The device is inexpensive soft roof from deposited materials. In general, you can use any available. It is attached to a solid crate, so there is not much difference.

Building a village toilet

The last stage is the actual construction. The procedure is determined by what type of toilet you will build. If with a cesspool, they make it first.

Cesspool for toilet

The procedure for construction is as follows:

A pit is dug in the chosen place. Its dimensions are 30-40 cm larger than the planned dimensions of the cesspool.
At the bottom, 20-30 cm of clay diluted to a pasty state are laid and rammed: they make a clay castle that will prevent sewage from penetrating into the soil. Therefore, lay the layers without voids.
The bottom and walls of the pit are laid out of brick, buta, a thick resin-impregnated board. The main thing is that the walls do not allow moisture to pass through: it should not enter either inside or from the inside. Therefore, waterproofing measures are necessary. Therefore, it is desirable to plaster the walls of the cesspool, and then coat with hydrophobic impregnation. Only one that can withstand aggressive environments.
The gap between the erected walls and the ground is laid with soaked clay - and here they make a clay castle. This is waterproofing from the outside.
A cover is laid on top of the pit. Usually it is made of boards (at least 40 mm thick). There should be two holes in the ceiling - one for installing a toilet seat, the second for organizing a hatch. The pumping hatch is usually made double - so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate.
Install the ventilation pipe.

In order not to mess with masonry and waterproofing, you can install a special plastic container - a septic tank. They come in different sizes and designs - with one or two necks.

The pit is dug a little larger than the size of the selected septic tank, the container is installed, covered with previously excavated soil. The device of such a cesspool is many times faster and more reliable.

Cabin for country toilet

Any toilet for a summer residence is installed in a small cabin-house. With your own hands, the easiest way is to make a rectangular structure with pitched roof: minimum time, costs and materials.

First of all, you need to take care of the presence of the floor. It needs to be raised some distance above the ground. It is more convenient to do this with the help of columns folded in the corners of the building. It is hardly worth burying them to the depth of freezing of the soil, but it is necessary to bury them in the soil 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. They are usually built from bricks, rubble stone, they can be poured from concrete, etc. On such a basis, during heaving, the cabin will rise, but usually this does not lead to any serious damage: the structure is small.

The flooring is laid on the prepared posts. It is usually wooden. It is desirable to coat the wood protective impregnations: the environment is aggressive, and even the impact of climatic factors.
Install vertical racks from a bar of 100 * 100 mm or a larger section. The height is chosen depending on the height of the “visitors”, but is rarely below 2.2 m. The front pillars are made a few centimeters (10-15 cm) longer - to ensure the slope of the roof. They are attached to the podium with metal plates or support bars. Previously, they used mainly long nails, now more and more often - self-tapping screws.
The upper part is tied around the perimeter with the same beam.
From a bar of the same section or less thickness (50 * 100 mm) draw up doorway. Its width depends on the width of the existing door.
If the winds are strong in the region, you can install additional braces - inclined beams between the vertical ones.
Sheathe the frame.
They make a continuous crate on the roof - the boards are nailed close or they put a piece of plywood, fiberboard, GVL.
Lay and fix roofing material.
Hanging doors.

As it turned out, it’s not so difficult to build a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands. Little time and cost is required. But in the process you will gain useful skills.

stroychik.ru

Slate pit construction technology

What is this design? This is one tank that has no bottom. Instead, there is a drainage layer through which water will be transported to the soil. A drain pipe is connected to the pit.

Please note: before proceeding with the installation of the device, you need to determine its location on the site with all the standards and norms. Information about the required distance from the cesspool to the nearest objects will help you.

If you are making a slate cesspool for a toilet, then you should follow the following construction technology:

First you need to dig a hole. It should be rectangular, square.
In order to develop the soil, you will need a shovel, buckets and a cart.

You choose the depth of the pit yourself, here it is important to take into account the number of people who regularly live in the house, as well as the number of daily drains consumed.

After that, lay a 30 cm layer of sand and gravel in the pit at the bottom and tamp it, this will be a drainage layer.
After you prepare the pit, you need to make a metal frame. To do this, weld a frame pit from steel corners, which will be laid on the bottom of the tank. There should be two such frames. The first frame is laid on the bottom of the slate drain pit. Pipelines at the corners also need to be welded to the bottom frame. The same process must be done for the second frame. Thus, you will get a rectangular frame.
Next, you need to equip the walls of the pit. You will need many pieces of flat slate, which you will need to cut yourself. Then they descend into the tank, you need to sew up all sides of the pre-prepared frame. In order to fix the slate, use self-tapping screws.
After all the preliminary work has been completed, you need to use the soil to fill the space between the slate and the walls of the slate cesspool for the toilet in the country.
Then tamp the soil and make a cover. Next, you can already install the toilet itself in the country with a cesspool.

If you are making a cesspool from flat slate for a toilet, namely from wave slate, then the installation work changes a little. You will need to stack sheets of slate one on top of the other. Until the moment when there is 35 cm from the top of the pit. After that, the drain pipe should be brought to the upper third of the stack of sheets. Next, strengthen the walls of the structure with slate and also fill up empty seats soil.

vivoz-gbo.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house may have different scheme and design, created from various materials. There are several types of holes:

structures without a bottom;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic layout of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

If we are talking about the simplicity and cost of the design, then optimal solution can become a storage system. But it has drawbacks, since the waste will remain in it, it will fill up quickly, after which it will be necessary to hire an expensive sewage truck for cleaning. Such a system is not suitable for houses with permanent residence, because due to significant costs, the water tank will have to be cleaned at intervals of a week.

Bottomless design small size. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, the waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging suburban area where sewerage is not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will purify itself on its own.

The third and most popular type of pit for private houses is a septic tank. The device can mechanically clean incoming wastewater. A septic tank can consist of one or more chambers, and its bottom can be laid out of gravel, blocks, broken bricks. The walls of the septic tank can be laid out with bricks or concreted. With this design, the soil will be less polluted, because at first the waste will be cleaned through the stones. Such a cesspool would be the best option for a private house.

Highlights in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning vacuum truck;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide convenient access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewer capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is allocated per 1 person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

location of the opening for sewer drains

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drain pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

There is the most budgetary and universal solution for the construction of sewers from improvised materials. For example, a cesspool can be made from slate. To do this, it is better to use wave material, since the walls of flat slate will be more fragile. One slate sheet is laid on the ground, after which walls are made from several sheets. Waves overlap. When 45 cm remains to the top of the pit, a drain pipe is inserted. Broken slate and soil should be poured into the empty space.

Another affordable and cheap way would be to build a sewer from tires. The side parts of the tires should be cut off with a jigsaw due to the metal cord. After that, the tires are laid in a hole made, and its bottom is covered with broken bricks or rubble. In the tire, which will be located higher than the others, a hole for the drain pipe is made in advance. After that, a metal sheet is laid on the tires, and the structure is covered with soil.

Wooden sewerage is often used. This option will be inexpensive, but the boards must be treated with mastic or another type of protective material from decay. It is not difficult to make a cesspool: formwork is made from boards. But the service life of the product will not exceed 10 years.

An inexpensive solution for a private house can be a barrel pit. For its construction, you can use metal or wooden barrel. You can use several containers of the same material. The bottom of the barrels is cut off, and they are stacked on top of each other. The larger the diameter of the container, the better. Mini-tanks will be optimal. Steel barrels can be welded together, and wooden containers can be hammered together with nails. The bottom of the pit is covered with broken bricks, and a hole is made in the upper tank at a height of 35 cm for a sewer pipeline. The structure can be covered with a metal sheet or boards and covered with soil. This version of the cesspool is the most inexpensive, and its layout resembles a sewer from tires.

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewer, the organization of the drain tank and options for its installation are selected.

A more reliable way to build a sewer system is to use concrete rings. But for the work, heavy equipment will be required, with the help of which the rings will be laid in the prepared pit. The cesspool can be with or without a bottom.

When using an iron or plastic tank to create a sewer, it can be placed horizontally or vertically in the soil. All work can be done independently without the use of special expensive equipment, but the effectiveness of the cesspool is limited by specific deadlines.

1. Construction of sewerage from concrete rings

When arranging a sewer system from concrete rings, it is better to use PVC pipelines to drain waste into a well. Pipes should be located in such a way that the exit from them is in the foundation of the building slightly below the soil freezing zone. This will protect them from freezing water, deformation and breakage of the sewer. If it is not possible to locate the pipelines at the optimal depth, it is necessary to make a gravel-sand cushion, waterproofing and insulation near them.

Under the sewer tank should be prepared optimal size pit. This takes into account the thickness of the concrete rings, including the size of the insulation. If a cesspool with a concrete bottom is provided, then sand with crushed stone is first rammed, a pillow is poured, and after laying the reinforcement, the bottom is finally covered with concrete mortar.

brick pit installation

After 24 hours, concrete rings can be laid, the joints between which are treated with a concrete solution or sealant. In the area of soil freezing, in the upper ring, a hole is being prepared for the installation of a drain pipeline in the tank.

After the final installation of the structure, it should be closed with a lid so that an opening for pumping out organic waste remains available. Also in the hatch is a tube for venting gases.

Soil with sand and gravel is laid around the constructed structure, after which they are rammed.

The construction of a sewer without a bottom made of concrete rings is done in a similar way. The difference lies in the replacement of concreting with a sand and gravel "cushion" with a layer of 30-50 cm. It will play the role of a natural filter before water enters the soil. Due to the lack of a bottom, such an installation will need to be cleaned less frequently (once a year or several years).

2. Construction of a sewer from a plastic or metal container

Often, homeowners choose capacious tanks as a cesspool. homemade camera for feces can become iron barrel. But the metal is not able to provide reliable and non-stop operation of the sewer due to the instability of corrosion, rapid failure. After some time, the cesspool may need to be overhauled.

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering inside. When digging a pit, the parameters of a plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel cushion or concrete mortar. 24 hours after preparatory work it is possible to install a container, on the side of which, in the area of soil freezing, an opening is made for supplying a drain pipeline. All joints are treated with sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Pipe installation

The composition of the autonomous sewerage of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Proper styling piping is essential in ensuring the proper operation of the system.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewerage of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with a heater made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity movement of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a pipe turn, a rotary sewer well is installed from concrete rings in this area.

Creation of a drainage system

With a properly designed and created drainage system, the house is protected from water, the absence of flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system

For pit latrines with a bottom, open or closed drainage can be provided. The first option is created from drainage ditches, which are filled with small stone or gravel. They provide drainage to the water intake (swamp, river or lake). The second option is more durable, its design consists of trenches covered with sand or fine gravel with drainage pipelines laid. Pipes divert ground or rain water when a slope is created.

We have already written about the construction of cesspools using tires, concrete rings and barrels, today we will write to you about how to build a sewer well from asbestos slate. We will talk about the use of flat slate, but this does not mean that this task cannot be handled with the help of wavy slate.

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of the well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat sheets of slate;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
cart.

Note that in the same way you can equip a pit for a country toilet, but this is us, by the way.

How to build a cesspool with slate

When the pit is ready, proceed to the organization of the metal frame. You need to weld a frame frame made of steel corners under the bottom of the pit. You will need two of these frames. After one of them must be laid on the bottom of the pit. Pipes must be welded at the corners of the lower frame, and then at the corners of the upper. As a result, you will get a rectangular frame.

At the next stage, you need to start arranging the walls of the well. Everything is simple here. The task is to cut the required number of pieces of flat slate, and then lower it into the pit, sewing up all sides of the rectangular frame. Self-tapping screws can be used to fix the slate.

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Pros and cons of using pits

The building that I want to talk about belongs to the category of local treatment facilities that are used to accumulate or process sewage from a private house.

A cesspool for a country toilet is a fairly simple design, but it has both its advantages and disadvantages. I will voice for you both the first and the second.

pros	Minuses
Environmental friendliness. Sealed cesspools accumulate organic waste, which is then pumped out with the help of sewage equipment and disposed of at urban wastewater treatment plants.	The appearance of an unpleasant odor. If you do not take care of the removal of biological gases, the cesspool may emit bad smell and spoil your comfortable stay outside the city.
Ease of installation and operation. The pit is built very quickly and easily, and it is even easier to use it: you just need to call specialists in a timely manner to pump out sewage.	The need to call technology. For waste disposal, you need to call special equipment. Although, I once told you how you can clear the hole yourself.
Possibility of installation on any sites. Even if the groundwater level is high (as it was in my case).

Be that as it may, a neighbor asked me to build a cesspool. But he didn't say from what. Therefore, I had to choose the design myself. But more on that below.

Varieties of designs

I've constructed pits out of everything imaginable. But the most common options are:

The pit is completely unlined. Almost never used in construction, as it can contaminate groundwater and soil. In addition, the soil from the walls crumbles during operation, therefore the usable volume of the structure decreases all the time.
Tire pit. Used as wall material car tires(old). Such a design, from experience I know, lasts about 30 years. There are two disadvantages: a small volume of capacity (if you do not use tires from a mining truck) and its leakage.
Slate pit. I built one like this. The design is very simple, leaky and inefficient. Suitable as a temporary measure until you build something decent.
Brick pit. The building is strong, but short-lived. With poor waterproofing, water from drains will penetrate into the thickness of the brick walls, which will quickly lead to their destruction.
Pit from ready-made containers. This is not quite a pit, but rather a sealed large barrel that is buried in the ground. Sold in building supermarkets. An excellent option, if you are not afraid of the high price.
Pit made of concrete rings. Robust and durable design. I often built such pits, but here you can’t do without the help of a crane. On your own, you will not lower the ring inside the prepared pit.
Pit from monolithic concrete. This option appeals to me the most. Such a design can be made independently and it is about it that I will discuss below.

Pit construction

So, let's consider how a pit is made for a toilet in a country house with our own hands from monolithic concrete. The instructions below are divided into several steps for convenience.

Determination of tank volume and installation location

To begin with, I need the depth and width of the pit for the toilet in the country. That is, in another way, the volume or amount of sewage that will need to be stored in it.

This parameter depends on the number of people living in country house and intensity of use. I took as a basis the fact that the dwelling will be used intermittently, but only in holiday season. In addition, washing machines and dishwashers will not be installed in the house, which use and drain a large amount of water into the local sewer.

If you are faced with the task of building a local sewage system for a private house, then it is better to build a septic tank, which not only accumulates, but also cleans the drains. It needs to be cleaned of waste much less often with the help of a sewage machine.

a person consumes on average about half a cubic meter of water;
five people are supposed to stay at the dacha (grandmother, grandfather, a young man with his wife and their child);
the house has a heater with a capacity of 150 liters;
then one person needs 150 liters of water per day, for all 750 liters;
determine the final volume from how often you want to call the sewer;
I settled on once a month, that is, the pit will have a volume of 20 cubic meters;
respectively, the dimensions are 2 by 5 by 3 meters.

At the same time, I’ll say right away that I didn’t deepen it much down, since groundwater passes there. Therefore, I got it wide and long, but not very deep.

When designing, I still recommend taking into account one point. No matter how full the sewage truck is, you will have to pay the same amount for calling it. Therefore, calculate the volume so that the tank of special equipment is completely filled (there is nothing to drive it empty for your own money).

Now about placement. Information about where the cesspool that I am building is located will not be of interest to you, but in order to choose the right digging point for my own structure, I will point out the basic rules:

from a well or well, it should be 25 meters away;
from a residential building - 5 meters;
from the road common use- 5 meters;
from a natural reservoir - 30 meters;
from trees and bushes - 3 meters;
from the fence of your site - 3 meters.

So take a plan and decide where you will put it. But do not be wiser, otherwise it will be difficult to make an external sewage system later.

Preparatory work

And now I'm starting to build a hole. For this I need the following materials:

Portland cement grade M400 - at least 7 bags;
crushed stone, which will play the role of a filler in concrete;
sand as part of the solution;
waterproofing - in my case, bituminous coating.

Also, you can not do without tools:

two bayonet shovels with handles of different lengths;
shovel for collecting soil;
measuring tool;
ladder;
laser level (you can take a water level);
rope and trowel;
spatula and brush.

Before digging a hole for the toilet, I took pegs and a white rope and marked on the site the place where the future hole would be placed. I noted the distance more, since I am going to install both external and internal formwork.

But if the soil is solid on your site, you can use the walls of the pit as an external formwork. Then the hole needs to be dug exactly along external dimensions future storage capacity.

You also need to go a little lower than the design depth of the pit (in my case 3 meters). Crushed stone and sand will be poured down, so it is necessary to provide for this a space about 30-50 cm high.

Moreover, after pouring the floor, I plan to sketch on top of the earth and plant grass. Therefore, my three-meter (deep) pit requires a pit at least 4 meters deep.

I got something like this:

The field of how earthworks was finished, I carefully leveled the ground below and poured a layer of sand mixed with rubble there. I rammed it, spilled it with water and rammed it again to prevent soil shrinkage during the operation of the building.

And then he began to design the formwork.

Formwork erection

For the manufacture of enclosing structures into which concrete will be poured, I used:

OSB boards - they can be wrapped with plastic wrap to make it easier to dismantle and organize the correct dehydration of the monolith;
wooden bars - with their help I made stiffeners;
self-tapping screws - you can take any, not necessarily galvanized.

I immediately draw your attention once again to the fact that I will have both internal and external formwork. But for many it is only internal. So refract the proposed instruction to suit your conditions.

So, the formwork installation instructions are as follows:

I installed OSB sheets and fixed them together with wooden bars. It is better if you have enough length sheets to make formwork for the entire height of the walls. If this is not the case, you will have to work in several stages.

I fixed a plastic film on the formwork, which protects it from getting wet. By the way, you can replace it with rolls of roofing material. And if you use steel sheets instead of OSB boards or plywood, it is not necessary to lay waterproofing at all.

Concrete the bottom of the septic tank. Here it is not necessary to equip a perfectly flat surface (as, for example, in a house). The main thing is that there are no voids inside the concrete slab.
So I mixed a concrete mix of cement, sand and gravel, then poured it into the formwork and poked it many times with a crowbar to compact the surface. It is not visible in the photo below, but along the edge of the formwork I put rebars in order to later tie the floor surface and monolithic concrete walls together.

Installed the inner deck. To do this, I took measurements in advance, after which I made something like a box of OSB boards, which I installed in the future cesspool and fixed in place so that it stood at the same distance from the external enclosing structure.
So the text is not entirely clear, but the illustration you will immediately understand what's what.

I made a hole and inserted a pipe through which sewage from the toilet will drain into the pit. If this is not done in advance, then you will have to drill concrete, seal the hole, and so on and so forth.
In the photo, the installed pipe is marked with a blue oval.

This is how I made the formwork. In addition, I note that when constructing the pit, I did not use reinforcement. If you see a need for this, then install a frame of metal rods in the gap between two formworks: internal and external.

In the meantime, I will move on to the most important thing - concreting.

Wall construction

This stage will be the longest in time, since after pouring the concrete it is necessary that it completely hardens, which takes several weeks ( exact time depends on weather conditions).

For concreting, I used homemade concrete, which I made from Portland cement grade M400 (one part), sand (two parts) and crushed stone filler (three parts). In addition, I used the Master Silk additive, which makes the finished mortar more plastic, it fills the formwork better.

I mixed everything with an electric concrete mixer.

It makes no sense to describe the technology of work here. It is only necessary to mix the right amount of mortar and fill the formwork with it. In this case, the concrete must be carefully rammed so that there are no voids inside the walls.

Then I left the whole structure alone until the solution had completely hardened. It took 15 days. Then he dismantled the formwork. It turned out like this.

On this, the construction of the walls is completed, but I did not remove the concrete mixer far. After all, there is still a floor to fill. But before that, in order to make it convenient to work, I decided to waterproof the bottom and walls of my monumental structure.

Waterproofing

Here I immediately want to apologize to the readers. I waterproofed the walls of the cesspool for the country toilet with the help of bituminous mastic. The event is quite "dirty", so I could not take the phone and take pictures of the process.

Well, the process went like this:

First, I went down into the concrete pit and thoroughly cleaned all surfaces from contamination. If you have any cracks or other defects after drying, they need to be eliminated. Everything was fine with me.

Then he heated the bitumen with a gas burner until its consistency began to resemble liquid sour cream.

After that, a liter of diesel fuel was added to the bitumen bucket. Gasoline can also be used, but be sure to remove the bucket from the fire so that there is no fire.
Processed the walls of the cesspool with the first layer. For this, I used a wide and thick paint brush. After that, I waited for it to dry.
I smeared the walls with bitumen again.

If you don't want to bother with bitumen heating, buy water-soluble emulsions or special concrete waterproofing compounds. But be aware that they dry much longer.

Bitumen smells strongly during operation. That's why I didn't do the top slab of the cesspool until I finished the waterproofing. Otherwise, one would have to writhe in a dark and "smelling" pit, brushing the walls.

Floor installation

The easiest way to block a septic tank is to buy and install a reinforced concrete slab. But you need to deliver it with something, and call a crane to install it. So I resorted to an easier way:

Designed finished formwork, with the help of which I will make an inspection hatch over the cesspool.

After that, I made a horizontal formwork from the OSB board (it will not be removed), which will help me build a concrete floor.

Then I laid out the reinforcement along the installed horizontal formwork so that I got a reinforcing frame. For this, I used rods 8 cm thick, which I tied together with wire.
Reinforcement in this case is needed so that the ceiling can withstand a large load. After all, as I said, I'm going to pour earth on top.
The photo has not been preserved, so I will show an illustration from another object, where the ceiling was constructed from rolled metal and slate sheets.

After that, I filled everything with concrete, installing the inside of the box for the inspection hatch and inserting a piece of ventilation pipe. In the end it turned out like this.

Then, after complete drying of the concrete with which the upper floor was filled, he installed the outer part of the formwork around the box and filled the hatch with concrete. Like that.

On this we can say that the work on the construction of a cesspool on the site of my neighbor has been completed.

obustroeno.com

Cesspool volume calculations

When calculating the size of a cesspool for a bath, as well as a sewer for a house, many factors must be taken into account in order to ensure maximum performance of the structure. First you need to draw up a project for a sewage pit, choose what type it will be, calculate the volume. In particular, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

who and how often will use the bath;
characteristics of the soil where the drain pit will be located.

If there are many users, respectively, a cesspool is needed bigger size. Sandy soils are better able to absorb liquids, so in this case you can build a small sewage pit. But on loams and clays, water leaves very slowly, an additional absorption area is needed here.

In areas where the soil is stable, you can not engage in additional strengthening of the walls. But where the soil is crumbling, care should be taken that the pit does not fall asleep. Mistakes in the construction of a cesspool will affect the quality and durability of its functioning, therefore, all the nuances during the work should be taken into account in order to avoid trouble during operation.

Since mainly water will accumulate in the cesspool under the bath, and they will not bathe there constantly, there is no need to install a complex structure, an ordinary cesspool in the bath can handle the collection and processing of waste.

Necessary materials

In the process of building a cesspool, you will need tools and materials that are probably in the garage of the owner of the house or in the arsenal of the summer resident. Depending on which design will be installed, materials are also selected. If the site has good soil, does not crumble, absorbs water, additional strengthening of the walls and bottom is not required. However, such conditions are very rare. In most cases, care must be taken that during operation the cesspool under the bath does not fall asleep, does not become clogged with earth crumbling from the walls.

At the bottom of the drain pit, you need to lay a drainage cushion for a more thorough cleaning of the waste from the pit. For this, crushed stone and sand are often used. The following materials are excellent for strengthening the walls:

brick;
slate;
reinforced concrete rings;
tires;
metal barrels;
plastic tanks.

The most optimal and economical option is to use improvised materials, that is, those that are at the disposal of the owner. These can be used tires from a car (large), bricks left after dismantling some household structures, metal barrels that were once used for household purposes.

earthworks

In the process of arranging the sewerage under the bath, the first stage will be excavation. To do this, you can use special equipment, or you can dig a trench with your own hands. The second stage is much more time-consuming, but economical. The use of technology requires access to the bathhouse.

After the earthworks, the land remained on the site. Leaving it like that will spoil the aesthetics of the site. It is necessary not only to dispose of it, but to use it with benefit. Often, beds in the garden are sprinkled with this earth, if the soil is of high quality. If not, you can simply dispose of the soil.

A do-it-yourself drain pit for a bath will not be complete if you do not provide a drainage layer that is laid after digging the pit. The bottom of the cesspool for the bath must be made waterproof, and the walls will be responsible for taking the liquid from the tank. Sprinkle the bottom with a mixture of sand and gravel. Well, if there is construction waste, they are also great. The drainage layer must be at least 20 cm.

Construction of a cesspool

Upon completion of the earthworks, it is necessary to lay a drain pipe in the trench and proceed to finish the walls and roof of the cesspool. The complex of works will depend on what material is used. by the most simple solution is to use a large plastic or metal barrel. You can find an unnecessary container at home, or you can buy a special tank at a hardware store, from which a cesspool is made for a bath.

from slate

Sewerage for a bath can be done using wave slate, which remained after the dismantling of the old roof. This method is great for areas with sandy soil. The work process is simple. First, the first sheet should be laid on the bottom of the pit, then each subsequent sheet should be laid so that its edges are in contact with the edges of the previous sheet.

You can fill the space and make additional drainage if you fill the container with broken slate.

From tires

Car tires can also be used to equip a cesspool for a bath. Due to the fact that solid waste will not enter this sewer tank, the design can be extremely simple. Used car tires are probably in the garage.

The construction process will consist of the following steps:

with the help of a grinder, you need to cut the sides of the tires;
carefully lay the tires in the pit on top of each other;
fill the bottom of the cesspool with rubble;
make a hole for the drain pipe;
put a sheet of metal on top and lightly sprinkle it with soil.

prokommunikacii.ru

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative liability is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen, with a hilly terrain, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the pit has access to a sewage machine for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement instructions:

4-5 meters from a residential building.
3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
At least 25 meters from a well, well, spring.
30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the waste pit is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.

Pit volume

To calculate the volume of the waste pit, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. The capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person consumes 170 liters of water per day. Thus, for three people, a sewage pit with a volume of 10 cubic meters.

Experience has shown that if the pit has a good drainage system or is located on sandy soil, a smaller volume of 6-7 cubic meters is quite enough. If you dig a hole with your own hands, it is better to think over the reserve volume in advance so that excess drains do not go beyond the drainage hole and pumping is not needed.

Excavation

Earthwork is best started in the middle of summer, with stable dry weather. A pit is being prepared for the future drain pit. Most often, it measures 2 meters high, wide and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it both with your own hands and with the help of an excavator.

First, the top layer of fertile soil is removed, it is better to distribute it in the garden. Subsequently, the soil is removed. If the soil around the pit is sandy, you should be wary of the collapse of the walls of the pit. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth is reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool must be at least one meter above the autumn/spring groundwater level. The permissible depth of pits of this type is from 1 to 3 meters.

Drainage

In order for wastewater to quickly leave the pit into the soil and not need to cause pumping, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic fabric (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should overlap the walls of the pit.

Areas adjacent to each other are sewn together. A layer of crushed stone 10 - 20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric. The crushed stone is covered with a second layer of synthetic fabric. The edges of the first and second layers are sewn together or smeared with bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the pit is used.

If a cesspool is created by hand for a country toilet (without pumping out), drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, a layer of crushed stone (20 cm) is poured on top of it.

Connecting a sewer pipe

When mounting a sewer pipe, attention should be paid to the height difference between the level of the end of the pipe in the pit and the level of the pipe in the house. It should not be less than a meter. With a small height difference, the drains will stagnate in the pipe, and blockages are possible.

It is best if the pipe extends outside the house underground. The depth of the pipe should be deeper than the layer of winter freezing of the soil, so that during frosts the drains do not freeze, blocking the pipe. If the pipe comes to the surface, it should be properly insulated.

back to menu

Walls

Exist various options pit walls. They are lined with bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of wall material depends on the personal desire of the builder.

brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are lined with bricks. This material has a number of advantages: easy accessibility, ease of laying, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited for arranging a cesspool. Silicate brick is characterized by low moisture resistance, so it should never be used for this purpose. What can not be said about ceramic bricks, its varieties are completely suitable.

Masonry can be done with your own hands, with ordinary mortar, but the bricklayer must leave small gaps between the sides of the bricks and not fill them with cement. This is necessary to filter the effluents and pass them into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry, leave 30 cm of space and fill it with broken bricks, gravel and sand to improve the filtration of runoff water.

Log walls / plank walls

In suburban areas, the walls of cesspools for a street toilet (without pumping out) or others are most often covered with shields from boards, bars, or a small log house is made. This material is less durable, but will cost much cheaper than other analogues. You can deal with the design with your own hands.

If it is decided to line the pit with boards, first prepare 4 large bars. The size is better to choose 10X10. They are covered with a special solution - protection against bark beetles and rot (if the bars are made of larch, protective equipment is not needed, this tree has not rotted for decades). Slightly sharpen one end of each bar, this is necessary when attaching the bar to the ground of the day of the pit. The bars must correspond to the depth and have a margin of length to deepen them into the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are placed at the corners of the pit and fixed, you can start mounting the boards. The strongest and thickest boards (if used various sizes) are located closer to the bottom of the pit, later it is at the very bottom that the walls will be subjected to the strongest earth pressure. The boards covered with a special protective solution are nailed so that the bars are inside the wooden box.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of 1-2 cm between the boards to allow runoff water to enter the soil. It is much more convenient to put together a wooden box outside the pit, and then lower it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the mass of the structure will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! log cabin constructed in a similar way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the logs will significantly reduce the volume of the drain pit. To avoid this, it is necessary to review the volume of the pit.

Walls made of concrete rings

For long-term use of the drain pit, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

It will not work to create a structure from concrete rings with your own hands; you need to take care of their purchase in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance in which ring and where the hole for the pipe will be, it is punched out before immersion. When there are rings, the question arises: how to lower them into the hole (It is worth remembering that the hole should not be completely dug out at the time the first ring is lowered). There is a wide range of possibilities here, from the use of a crane (the mass of one ring reaches 600 kg) and winches, to self-immersion of the rings. A more economical option would be to deal with this problem yourself.

First, a pit is dug with a height equal to the height of one concrete ring. One of its edges is made partially flat (beveled) for a convenient descent of the structure. A ring is rolled up to the beveled edge in such a way that the axis of the ring is directed towards the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever from a bar (recommended length of 3 m), the ring is turned over, dragged to the sloping edge and gently slides down in a vertical position. For the convenience of descending on a gentle edge, you can lay out boards. After the first ring has taken its position, the builder goes down and begins to deepen the pit from the inside of the ring.

Gradually, with an increase in the depth of the pit, the ring will smoothly settle. After that, the same operation is performed with the next ring. It is very important to monitor the strictly horizontal level of the structure when deepening the pit. After lowering all the rings, holes are drilled in their walls (recommended 5 cm) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for the release of sewage.

Slate wall construction

simple and original way- lay out the walls of the drain pit with sheets of slate. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is quite fragile, which must be considered when choosing. The design will not be complicated, you can handle it yourself. Produce a blank of four iron corners (longitudinally bent strip of metal), holes are drilled in them for future fastening.

Four sheets of slate (it is better to choose a special flat one, and not wavy for roofs, wavy is less durable) are lowered into the pit. Next, assembly is carried out: corners are screwed to the slate leaves with self-tapping screws (to two leaves on the opposite side), all slate leaves are screwed together and the frame is ready. Holes are drilled to release wastewater.

This information will be useful not only for the improvement of the summer cottage, but will also help to design a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping, which will significantly save the cost of its construction.

Slate pit construction technology

What is this design? This is one tank that has no bottom. Instead, there is a drainage layer through which water will be transported to the soil. A drain pipe is connected to the pit.

If you are making a slate cesspool for a toilet, then you should follow the following construction technology:

First you need to dig a hole. It should be rectangular, square.
In order to develop the soil, you will need a shovel, buckets and a cart.

You choose the depth of the pit yourself, here it is important to take into account the number of people who regularly live in the house, as well as the number of daily drains consumed.

After that, lay a 30 cm layer of sand and gravel in the pit at the bottom and tamp it, this will be a drainage layer.
After you prepare the pit, you need to make a metal frame. To do this, weld a frame pit from steel corners, which will be laid on the bottom of the tank. There should be two such frames. The first frame is laid on the bottom of the slate drain pit. Pipelines at the corners also need to be welded to the bottom frame. The same process must be done for the second frame. Thus, you will get a rectangular frame.
Next, you need to equip the walls of the pit. You will need many pieces of flat slate, which you will need to cut yourself. Then they descend into the tank, you need to sew up all sides of the pre-prepared frame. In order to fix the slate, use self-tapping screws.
After all the preliminary work has been completed, you need to use the soil to fill the space between the slate and the walls of the slate cesspool for the toilet in the country.
Then tamp the soil and make a cover. Next, you can already install the toilet itself in the country with a cesspool.

vivoz-gbo.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house can have a different scheme and design, be created from various materials. There are several types of holes:

structures without a bottom;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic layout of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

If we are talking about the simplicity and price of the design, then the storage system can be the best solution. But it has drawbacks, since the waste will remain in it, it will fill up quickly, after which it will be necessary to hire an expensive sewage truck for cleaning. Such a system is not suitable for permanent residences, because, due to significant costs, the water tank will have to be cleaned at intervals of a week.

The design without a bottom is small. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, the waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging a summer cottage, where sewerage is not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will purify itself on its own.

Highlights in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning with a vacuum cleaner;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide convenient access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewer capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is allocated per 1 person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

location of the opening for sewer drains

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drain pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

An inexpensive solution for a private house can be a barrel pit. For its construction, you can use a metal or wooden barrel. You can use several containers of the same material. The bottom of the barrels is cut off, and they are stacked on top of each other. The larger the diameter of the container, the better. Mini-tanks will be optimal. Steel barrels can be welded together, and wooden containers can be hammered together with nails. The bottom of the pit is covered with broken bricks, and a hole is made in the upper tank at a height of 35 cm for a sewer pipeline. The structure can be covered with a metal sheet or boards and covered with soil. This version of the cesspool is the most inexpensive, and its layout resembles a sewer from tires.

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewer, the organization of the drain tank and options for its installation are selected.

1. Construction of sewerage from concrete rings

Under the sewer tank, an optimal pit should be prepared. This takes into account the thickness of the concrete rings, including the size of the insulation. If a cesspool with a concrete bottom is provided, then sand with crushed stone is first rammed, a pillow is poured, and after laying the reinforcement, the bottom is finally covered with concrete mortar.

brick pit installation

After the final installation of the structure, it should be closed with a lid so that an opening for pumping out organic waste remains available. Also in the hatch is a tube for venting gases.

Soil with sand and gravel is laid around the constructed structure, after which they are rammed.

2. Construction of a sewer from a plastic or metal container

Often, homeowners choose capacious tanks as a cesspool. A homemade feces chamber can be an iron barrel. But the metal is not able to provide reliable and non-stop operation of the sewer due to the instability of corrosion, rapid failure. After some time, the cesspool may need to be overhauled.

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering inside. When digging a pit, the parameters of a plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel cushion or concrete mortar. 24 hours after the preparatory work, a container can be installed, on the side of which, in the area of soil freezing, an opening is made for supplying a drain pipeline. All joints are treated with sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Pipe installation

The composition of the autonomous sewerage of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Proper piping is essential to ensure proper operation of the system.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewerage of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with a heater made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity movement of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a pipe turn, a rotary sewer well is installed from concrete rings in this area.

Creation of a drainage system

With a properly designed and created drainage system, the house is protected from water, the absence of flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system

abvseptik.ru

Practical fences

Until recently, slate has been the most common roofing material with many performance benefits. Today, its popularity has fallen slightly, more modern materials have appeared on the market: shingles and metal tiles. It is a pity to throw away the old coating, which is why many in the country have warehouses of old slate sheets. It's a pity to throw it away, and you don't need to do it.

A standard slate sheet has a length of 175 cm, the sheet is cut in half and simply with an overlap on the netting, it is dug into the ground with the lower edge, to a depth of 40 cm. If desired, slate is easy to paint, choosing the right color, it is easy to easily integrate it into the style of your site.

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the backyard from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold on the edge of the neighbor's plot with their roots.

Shelves in the cellar

Another way to use the old slate was suggested by experienced summer residents and gardeners. To store supplies, they propose to build comfortable and durable shelves using slate, allowing you to organize a convenient storage system for available supplies. Shelves are constructed as follows:

At the corners of the pantry, brick racks are laid, the length of which must match the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the ribs of the slate.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
They pour a sheet of slate, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete - a sufficiently strong capacious shelf on which any container for storing vegetables and fruits can be easily accommodated.

Slate beds

Such a partition is a reliable barrier to rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate needs to be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are being dug around the perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are laid in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and tamp the soil around the installed sheet parts.
In order to give the walls of the beds greater stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves on the beds are horizontal, the shoots of plants and their roots can easily grow along the depressions.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically located waves will not become an obstacle to weeding the beds.

Benefits of using slate fencing

Experienced gardeners today make not only beds from slate sheets, they collect flower beds with it, lay slate on greenhouses. A garden path covered with flat sheets is obtained durable and reliable. Practicality and decorativeness are not the only advantages of such a solution.

Slate is a material that quickly heats up in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This favorably affects the growth of any plants.
It is difficult to destroy the garden fence assembled with the help of asbestos-cement sheets.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forget with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on buying wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color, painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

Foundation and pit latrine

Old slate sheets are often used to equip formwork for pouring foundations for outbuildings. In this case, after the concrete has hardened, the formwork does not need to be removed.

Since there is often no central sewerage on the plot, the toilet and utilities serving the kitchen and bathroom cannot function without a cesspool. Slate in this case is used to strengthen its walls. Sheets are cut to the size of the walls of the pit, just go down. In order for the sheets not to fall, they are fastened together with the corners of the reinforcement. Further, reinforcement bars are laid in the gap between the pit and the slate sheets. The cracks are filled with cement mortar. In order for the walls of the cesspool to withstand the pressure, they are bursting with wooden blocks, as shown in the photo.

After the concrete has dried, the toilet pit is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

There are several varieties of this material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural basis);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

European scientists conducted research and found out that slate of the first variety can be called dangerous for humans. In Russia, amphibole-asbestos is not used for the production of roofing material. Therefore, for those who are afraid for their health, experts recommend purchasing slate of domestic brands. It can be used in the garden easily without fear.

As you can see, the use of old slate helps to solve purely practical tasks on the household plot. You can make a temporary toilet, outdoor shower, build a greenhouse or any fence using waste.

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself grill from a gas cylinder

montazhnik02.ru

Drain pipe laying

According to the rules, the laying of the drain pipe must be carried out during the construction of the foundation. It should be located at the bottom of the foundation so that the slope goes to the drain pit.

With sufficiently strong soil on the site, it is possible to arrange a pit for draining wastewater in this way: a foundation pit is dug, after which a drainage layer of gravel or gravel is built at the bottom. But such soil is very rare, so it is imperative to strengthen the walls of the pit.

How do you strengthen the walls?

slate sheets;
ceramic moisture resistant brick;
well rings made of reinforced concrete;
used tires, in which the rim is cut off on one side;
plastic or metal barrels.

Strengthening the walls of the drain pit using improvised materials

The first stage is the preparation of a pit, which you can dig with your own hands without the use of equipment, and the construction of a trench for laying a pipe. The soil excavated at the same time can be scattered around the site, provided that the soil is of sufficient quality, but it is better to take it outside the site.

When building a tank of silicate or ceramic bricks, the walls can be laid out half a brick thick to save building materials. When choosing such a material for laying out walls, you should first determine whether it will suit your conditions - not all soil will be suitable for sand-lime brick. For drainage of liquid in brick rows, gaps of five centimeters should be left. Masonry can be done with your own hands, both from brick and from natural stone.

If the tank is planned to be made of well concrete rings, when buying a product, you must choose those where there is perforation. If this failed (there may not be such rings on sale), you will have to form holes yourself using a puncher.

After the process of strengthening the walls of the drain pit is completed, it is necessary to make a drainage layer of crushed stone, gravel at the bottom, the layer must be at least 20 cm. Construction waste can also be used for this purpose, for example, broken brick, concrete fragments and so on.

Strengthening the walls of the pit can be completed at a distance of about 40 cm from the surface. Here you will need to arrange a ceiling, for example, lay a slab of reinforced concrete. A hole should be provided in it in order to control the filling of the pit with sewage and pump it out if necessary. This hole must be closed with a hatch.

How to arrange a pipe for draining water from a bath

For a bath, a cesspool should be dug approximately three meters from the base. There are some features that you will need to observe when laying a drain pipe with your own hands.

At the pit itself, the edges must be protected from shedding or collapse by a formwork device, with the help of concreting, slate sheets or reinforced concrete rings.
The bottom of the hole must be left free. Due to this, water will be provided with free absorption into the soil. At the same time, the top should be provided with a good overlap, where there is a hole for the pipe.
When laying the pipe, bends and joints should not be allowed, otherwise blockages may occur during operation.
After the installation of the water supply and drain pipe is completed, the floor in the bath is poured with concrete. When pouring, maintain an inclination in the direction where the drain hole is located.
The drain hole must be closed with a special mesh, a grate - this is done to provide additional protection for the pipe from blockages.
When the cement dries completely, it is usually ennobled with tile tiles - on such a floor you can lay out several removable wooden gratings. With their help, you can prevent possible discomfort and reduce the risk of burns that can occur from contact with hot tiles. If necessary, the gratings can be removed from the surface - this may be necessary for antiseptic treatment or drying the floor, as well as for replacing the gratings when worn.

If the floor is poured in accordance with the rules, such a floor will not require additional insulation. Both the floor and the tile will heat up quite quickly during the fire and will not let cold air in from the outside. It will not even be necessary to insulate the pipe itself, if a sufficient slope is provided when leading it towards the drain pit.

1pokanalizacii.ru

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. It is strictly forbidden to dump contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes. dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used a bulk layer of filter building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often holes are also made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves to collect, primary filtration and waste treatment - the solid components settle to the bottom, and the liquid ones are clarified, go through a cycle biological treatment due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. It is not uncommon for homeowners to prefer the installation of a prefabricated system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

In a barrel under required angle the slope is supplied with a pipe through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, drainage material is filled not only free space pit, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted ornamental shrubs that will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

Drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is impossible better fit to collect periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap between the slopes is provided, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. So that the bath can be used in winter time, the depth should be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drain sewers for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Have good drainage capacity sandy soils, sandy loam, including those with stony inclusions.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bath, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ 200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that in order to organize the drainage of water from small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It may be round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer should be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When used for a pit metal barrels, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a “grinder”. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges plastic pipe and in three or four more places, bricks are installed between the tires at the place of its passage, which will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to provide for possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the dirt walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, a layer 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various forms and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	This system uses two plastic drums that are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to the sewer pipes of the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows should be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel being installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ 170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per running meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As you fall asleep drainage material around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed over the drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even those left after roofing works covering trimmings of corrugated board.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, others find very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if any creative master share their innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

Surely many of you are interested in building a cesspool for a country toilet. For me, this task is not new, therefore, taking this opportunity, I want to tell you how to make a pit for a toilet in the country.

Pros and cons of using pits

The building that I want to talk about belongs to the category of local treatment facilities that are used to accumulate or process sewage from a private house.

A cesspool for a country toilet is a fairly simple design, but it has both its advantages and disadvantages. I will voice for you both the first and the second.

pros	Minuses
Environmental friendliness. Sealed cesspools accumulate organic waste, which is then pumped out with the help of sewage equipment and disposed of at urban wastewater treatment plants.	The appearance of an unpleasant odor. If you do not take care of the removal of biological gases, the cesspool can emit an unpleasant odor and spoil your comfortable stay outside the city.
Ease of installation and operation. The pit is built very quickly and easily, and it is even easier to use it: you just need to call specialists in a timely manner to pump out sewage.	The need to call technology. For waste disposal, you need to call special equipment. Although, I once told you how you can clear the hole yourself.
Possibility of installation on any sites. Even if the groundwater level is high (as it was in my case).

Be that as it may, a neighbor asked me to build a cesspool. But he didn't say from what. Therefore, I had to choose the design myself. But more on that below.

Varieties of designs

I've constructed pits out of everything imaginable. But the most common options are:

The pit is completely unlined. Almost never used in construction, as it can contaminate groundwater and soil. In addition, the soil from the walls crumbles during operation, therefore the usable volume of the structure decreases all the time.
Tire pit. As a material for the walls, car tires (old) are used. Such a design, from experience I know, lasts about 30 years. There are two disadvantages: a small volume of capacity (if you do not use tires from a mining truck) and its leakage.

Slate pit. I built one like this. The design is very simple, leaky and inefficient. Suitable as a temporary measure until you build something decent.
Brick pit. The building is strong, but short-lived. With poor waterproofing, water from drains will penetrate into the thickness of the brick walls, which will quickly lead to their destruction.
Pit from ready-made containers. This is not quite a pit, but rather a sealed large barrel that is buried in the ground. Sold in building supermarkets. An excellent option, if you are not afraid of the high price.
Pit made of concrete rings. Robust and durable design. I often built such pits, but here you can’t do without the help of a crane. On your own, you will not lower the ring inside the prepared pit.
Pit from monolithic concrete. This option appeals to me the most. Such a design can be made independently and it is about it that I will discuss below.

Pit construction

So, let's consider how a pit is made for a toilet in a country house with our own hands from monolithic concrete. The instructions below are divided into several steps for convenience.

Determination of tank volume and installation location

To begin with, I need the depth and width of the pit for the toilet in the country. That is, in another way, the volume or amount of sewage that will need to be stored in it.

This parameter depends on the number of people living in the country house and the intensity of use. I took as a basis the fact that the dwelling will be used intermittently, but only during the summer season. In addition, washing machines and dishwashers will not be installed in the house, which use and drain a large amount of water into the local sewer.

If you are faced with the task of building a local sewage system for a private house, then it is better to build a septic tank, which not only accumulates, but also cleans the drains. It needs to be cleaned of waste much less often with the help of a sewage machine.

a person consumes on average about half a cubic meter of water;
five people are supposed to stay at the dacha (grandmother, grandfather, a young man with his wife and their child);
the house has a heater with a capacity of 150 liters;
then one person needs 150 liters of water per day, for all 750 liters;
determine the final volume from how often you want to call the sewer;
I settled on once a month, that is, the pit will have a volume of 20 cubic meters;
respectively, the dimensions are 2 by 5 by 3 meters.

At the same time, I’ll say right away that I didn’t deepen it much down, since groundwater passes there. Therefore, I got it wide and long, but not very deep.

from a well or well, it should be 25 meters away;
from a residential building - 5 meters;
from the public road - 5 meters;
from a natural reservoir - 30 meters;
from trees and bushes - 3 meters;
from the fence of your site - 3 meters.

So take a plan and decide where you will put it. But do not be wiser, otherwise it will be difficult to make an external sewage system later.

Preparatory work

And now I'm starting to build a hole. For this I need the following materials:

Portland cement grade M400 - at least 7 bags;
crushed stone, which will play the role of a filler in concrete;
sand as part of the solution;
waterproofing - in my case, bituminous coating.

Also, you can not do without tools:

two bayonet spades with handles of different lengths;
shovel for collecting soil;
measuring tool;
ladder;
laser level (you can take a water level);
rope and trowel;
spatula and brush.

But if the soil is solid on your site, you can use the walls of the pit as an external formwork. Then the hole needs to be dug exactly according to the external dimensions of the future storage tank.

Moreover, after pouring the floor, I plan to sketch on top of the earth and plant grass. Therefore, my three-meter (deep) pit requires a pit at least 4 meters deep.

I got something like this:

After the earthworks were completed, I carefully leveled the soil below and poured a layer of sand mixed with rubble there. I rammed it, spilled it with water and rammed it again to prevent soil shrinkage during the operation of the building.

And then he began to design the formwork.

Formwork erection

For the manufacture of enclosing structures into which concrete will be poured, I used:

OSB boards - they can be wrapped with plastic wrap to make it easier to dismantle and organize the correct dehydration of the monolith;
wooden bars - with their help I made stiffeners;
self-tapping screws - you can take any, not necessarily galvanized.

So, the formwork installation instructions are as follows:

I installed OSB sheets and fixed them together with wooden bars. It is better if you have enough length sheets to make formwork for the entire height of the walls. If this is not the case, you will have to work in several stages.

I fixed a plastic film on the formwork, which protects it from getting wet. By the way, you can replace it with rolls of roofing material. And if you use steel sheets instead of OSB boards or plywood, it is not necessary to lay waterproofing at all.

Concrete the bottom of the septic tank. Here it is not necessary to equip a perfectly flat surface (as, for example, in a house). The main thing is that there are no voids inside the concrete slab.
So I mixed a concrete mix of cement, sand and gravel, then poured it into the formwork and poked it many times with a crowbar to compact the surface. It is not visible in the photo below, but along the edge of the formwork I put rebars in order to later tie the floor surface and monolithic concrete walls together.

Installed the inner deck. To do this, I took measurements in advance, after which I made something like a box of OSB boards, which I installed in the future cesspool and fixed in place so that it stood at the same distance from the external enclosing structure.
So the text is not entirely clear, but the illustration you will immediately understand what's what.

I made a hole and inserted a pipe through which sewage from the toilet will drain into the pit. If this is not done in advance, then you will have to drill concrete, seal the hole, and so on and so forth.
In the photo, the installed pipe is marked with a blue oval.

In the meantime, I will move on to the most important thing - concreting.

Wall construction

This stage will be the longest in time, since after pouring the concrete it is necessary that it completely hardens, which takes several weeks (the exact time depends on weather conditions).

I mixed everything with an electric concrete mixer.

Then I left the whole structure alone until the solution had completely hardened. It took 15 days. Then he dismantled the formwork. It turned out like this.

Waterproofing

Well, the process went like this:

First, I went down into the concrete pit and thoroughly cleaned all surfaces from contamination. If you have any cracks or other defects after drying, they need to be eliminated. Everything was fine with me.

Then he heated the bitumen with a gas burner until its consistency began to resemble liquid sour cream.

After that, a liter of diesel fuel was added to the bitumen bucket. Gasoline can also be used, but be sure to remove the bucket from the fire so that there is no fire.
Processed the walls of the cesspool with the first layer. For this, I used a wide and thick paint brush. After that, I waited for it to dry.
I smeared the walls with bitumen again.

If you don't want to bother with bitumen heating, buy water-soluble emulsions or special concrete waterproofing compounds. But be aware that they dry much longer.

Floor installation

The easiest way to block a septic tank is to buy and install a reinforced concrete slab. But you need to deliver it with something, and call a crane to install it. So I resorted to an easier way:

I designed a ready-made formwork, with the help of which I will make an inspection hatch over the cesspool.

After that, I made a horizontal formwork from the OSB board (it will not be removed), which will help me build a concrete floor.

Then I laid out the reinforcement along the installed horizontal formwork so that I got a reinforcing frame. For this, I used rods 8 cm thick, which I tied together with wire.
Reinforcement in this case is needed so that the ceiling can withstand a large load. After all, as I said, I'm going to pour earth on top.
The photo has not been preserved, so I will show an illustration from another object, where the ceiling was constructed from rolled metal and slate sheets.

After that, I filled everything with concrete, installing the inside of the box for the inspection hatch and inserting a piece of ventilation pipe. In the end it turned out like this.

Then, after complete drying of the concrete with which the upper floor was filled, he installed the outer part of the formwork around the box and filled the hatch with concrete. Like that.

On this we can say that the work on the construction of a cesspool on the site of my neighbor has been completed.

obustroeno.com

Practical fences

A standard slate sheet has a length of 175 cm, the sheet is cut in half and simply with an overlap on the netting, it is dug into the ground with the lower edge, to a depth of 40 cm. If desired, slate is easy to paint, choosing the right color, it is easy to easily integrate it into the style of your site.

Note! Such a partition is able to protect the backyard from the spread of weeds, which are trying to gain a foothold on the edge of the neighbor's plot with their roots.

Shelves in the cellar

Another way to use the old slate was suggested by experienced summer residents and gardeners. To store supplies, they propose to build comfortable and durable shelves using slate, allowing you to organize a convenient storage system for available supplies. Shelves are constructed as follows:

At the corners of the pantry, brick racks are laid, the length of which must match the width of the slate sheet. The height of the racks is 90 cm.
A sheet of slate is laid on the racks.
Formwork is built around it.
Reinforcement pipes are laid in the ribs of the slate.
The solution is mixed, as for a cement screed.
They pour a sheet of slate, the solution layer should be 10 cm.
The result should be monolithic concrete - a sufficiently strong capacious shelf on which any container for storing vegetables and fruits can be easily accommodated.

Slate beds

Such a partition is a reliable barrier to rodents and the spread of weeds. The process of laying slate itself consists of several stages:

First, the slate needs to be cut. This can be done along the plates or across the waves, as shown in the photo.
Then the boundaries of the beds are outlined.
Trenches are being dug around the perimeter. Their depth should be half of the prepared protective product.
Slate blanks are laid in the prepared trenches.
It remains to dig trenches and tamp the soil around the installed sheet parts.
In order to give the walls of the beds greater stability, metal pegs are buried in the ground.

Note! The installation of the described fence has certain nuances. If the waves on the beds are horizontal, the shoots of plants and their roots can easily grow along the depressions.

Any digging of the earth in this case will lead to the death of the plant. Vertically located waves will not become an obstacle to weeding the beds.

Benefits of using slate fencing

Slate is a material that quickly heats up in the sun, heats up and easily gives off excess heat to the soil. This favorably affects the growth of any plants.
It is difficult to destroy the garden fence assembled with the help of asbestos-cement sheets.
In the future, it is not necessary to carry out any other work with such a fence. Set and forget with them for a long time.
Using old slate sheets, there is no need to spend on buying wooden beams.
If desired, the sheets can be easily painted in any color, painting increases the decorative properties of the fence.

Foundation and pit latrine

Old slate sheets are often used to equip formwork for pouring foundations for outbuildings. In this case, after the concrete has hardened, the formwork does not need to be removed.

After the concrete has dried, the toilet pit is ready.

Disputes about the dangers of slate

There are several varieties of this material, two are used in the production of slate:

amphibole-asbestos (natural basis);
chrysotile asbestos (a derivative of the serpentine group).

As you can see, the use of old slate helps to solve purely practical tasks on the household plot. You can make a temporary toilet, outdoor shower, build a greenhouse or any fence using waste.

How to make a chest with your own hands

How to make a box with your own hands

How to choose a tent for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself grill from a gas cylinder

montazhnik02.ru

Advantages and disadvantages. We think we compare

Drainage pits most often do:

From concrete rings;
From old tires;
From slate on a metal frame;
From brick.

Why can a person choose a brick?

Ease of installation. Even a novice in the construction business can lay out brickwork. In the case of concrete rings, you will need a special. a technique to bring the rings to the site and lower them into the pit.

For a slate pit, it is required to weld a metal frame. If you are a welder, then this is not a problem, but if not, you will have to hire someone.

Pit diameter for brickwork maybe "back to back", for concrete rings and slate, the pit needs to be done with a margin. This is an important factor if you plan to dig by hand.

The size of the brick pit can be arbitrary, unlike the tire pit, where everything depends on the diameter of the selected wheels.

The main disadvantage of a brick cesspool is its relative fragility.
The service life is about 15 years (concrete and rubber win in this regard, and the slate pit will last about the same).

Preparation for construction

Away from all buildings;
Downstream groundwater;
Where the vacuum cleaner can drive up.

pit shape

If, for some reason, you need to make a square hole, then at least make its walls slightly convex outward. The arched effect will give them strength.

Dimensions

Everything is individual here. Of course, the larger the pit, the less often it will have to be pumped out. But the depth is limited by the level of groundwater. As a rule, you need to stop when there are about 30 cm to the water.

If it turns out too shallow, you should think about expanding the hole in length, or make a series of holes connected to each other (see "Drainage hole") You should not dig deeper than three meters, even if the soil is dry.

For a house in which 4-5 people live, a pit 3 m deep and 3 m in diameter is suitable.

Brick selection

cinder blocks and silicate brick definitely unsuitable for construction. They get wet quickly. You need to take a ceramic (red) brick.

Ideally, if the brick is burnt. It has a glossy surface and a browner tint than regular ceramic. Such a brick will significantly increase the life of the pit. Usually it is rejected because it is irregular in shape, hard to process, but for our case it is what we need.

Creation. Step-by-step instruction

digging a hole

This is the most time consuming of all processes. To minimize costs, many decide to dig a well on their own. This is normal, especially if the hole is supposed to be not very large.

In sandy soil, two people can handle a hole 1.5 m by 3 m in a day. In damp clay soil, everything is much more problematic! Health is more expensive, and there is a choice - to hire people, or an excavator.

Many people think that a man-unit will cost them less. However, before drawing conclusions, pay attention to the approximate calculations below.

Man or machine?

Suppose we need a pit 3m. diameter and 3m. depth.

Circle area S=Pi*R 2 . Those. 7 m2.

7 * 3m. = 21 m 3. The volume of the pit is 21 cubic meters.

A person costs 400-600 rubles. for m 3. It turns out that digging such a hole will cost you 8500-12500 rubles. (they can take more, because one-time work + meals)

The excavator can be paid for cubic meters, or maybe for an hour of work.

The average price for 1 m 3 is 180 rubles.

180*21=3780 rub.

If the payment is hourly, they may include the time of delivery of the excavator to the site (for this reason, look for equipment nearby). But, for comparison, during a working day, an excavator digs a large pond. And takes about 10,000 rubles. And with our well of 21 m 3 it will cope much faster and cheaper!

To make the walls of the pit smooth, the excavator must be able to dig it from both sides.

What to do with soil

Think in advance about where you will put 21 m 3 of earth removed from the pit.

If you decide to hire an excavator, then there are options:

Immediately load it onto a dump truck and take it out,
Dump in heaps next to the sewers and take out later;
Level over area.

The excavator will perform any of the three tasks.

Remember only that part of the earth must be left to form a hill near the hatch.

The fertile top layer can be moved to beds.

Form

It should resemble a glass, slightly expanding upwards (the walls of the well will also be built at a slight slope, this will also make them stronger). Bottom with a slight slope in the direction where the hatch will be in the future.

Think in advance how the pipe coming from the house will be located. You can immediately dig a trench for it. The depth of the trench depends on the depth of soil freezing in your area. If you are very afraid that freezing will occur, you can additionally insulate the pipe, for example, with glass wool and roofing material, or fill it with expanded clay.
If you provide a sufficient slope of the pipe and prevent the water level in the pit from rising, then you should not be afraid that the sewer will ever freeze.

Base

It's not worth saving here. If the foundation is not made, the drain pit will quickly be covered with silt, and if the foundation bursts, the walls may also suffer. Making such repairs will be so difficult that it is easier to dig a new hole!

The soil is covered with a layer of sand, gravel and a concrete base is poured. The thickness depends on the diameter of the pit - the larger it is, the thicker the concrete layer should be.

Roughly speaking, 15 - 20 cm. It will be great to strengthen the concrete pancake with reinforcement. Even if the budget is modest, you can always find pieces of old water pipes, corners from beds, etc. We level with a trowel, pull out the ladder and wait 5 - 7 days.

Alternatively, you can use a ready-made concrete pancake of a suitable diameter, but then you need to take care of buying it, bringing it and lowering it into the pit (you will need a crane).

Sometimes a pit is made without a foundation, with the goal of being “absorbed” into the soil. However, after a few years, it will still stop absorbing, because. silt.
In order not to solve difficult problems later, it is better to prevent them immediately.

Walls

Sometimes, you can find advice that bricklaying for a pit is done in a checkerboard pattern with broken seams so that “water from the pit is absorbed into the ground” through the walls. This method is only suitable for the second, drainage pit (see below).

The first pit, first of all, must be airtight. For this, the walls are even covered with bituminous mastic.

Masonry is done in half a brick (12 cm), with a large diameter - in brick (25 cm). The solution is kneaded - cement with sand 1:3, or 1:4.

Read more about the types of waste disposal systems here.

And here http://aquacomm.ru/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/ustroystvo-slivnogo-bachka-unitaza.html all about the features of internal fittings for drain tanks. Float type and fittings with buttons, as well as tank options.

aquacomm.ru

What materials will be required in order to complete the construction of the well

In order to build a well, you will need the following:

Flat sheets of slate;
steel pipes;
steel wire;
corners;
shovel;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, building level;
cart.

Note that in the same way you can equip a pit for a country toilet, but this is us, by the way.

How to build a cesspool with slate

www.raznyesamodelki.ru

Types of cesspools

A cesspool in a private house can have a different scheme and design, be created from various materials. There are several types of holes:

structures without a bottom;
septic tanks;
sealed storage systems.

Schematic layout of the cesspool and its system

Advantages of different types of structures

The design without a bottom is small. Its main advantages include:

no need for constant cleaning;
has small parameters.

However, the waste will enter the soil and pollute it. A pit without a bottom is suitable for arranging a summer cottage, where sewerage is not often used. With a daily water consumption of up to 1m3, the soil will purify itself on its own.

Highlights in the organization of the sewer system

When designing a cesspool, the main details should be considered:

the container can be without a bottom or sealed with regular cleaning with a vacuum cleaner;
the sewer container should be located at a safe distance from groundwater and buildings (outbuildings - from 3 m, residential buildings - from 5 m);
it is necessary to provide convenient access for cleaning the container;
the parameters of the sewer capacity depend on the number of people living in the house (on average, about 0.5 m3 of water is allocated per 1 person).

To prevent feces from entering the aquifer, the distance between the lower level of the sewer hole in the soil and the water source should not be less than 1 m.

location of the opening for sewer drains

Based on the type of soil, the distance from the well or well to the drain pit can be 20-50 m.

Materials for the manufacture of budget sewerage

Other options for cesspools

The device of a cesspool in a private house can be made of concrete rings, plastic or metal containers.

cesspool made of concrete rings

At the preparatory stage during the construction of the sewer, the organization of the drain tank and options for its installation are selected.

1. Construction of sewerage from concrete rings

brick pit installation

After the final installation of the structure, it should be closed with a lid so that an opening for pumping out organic waste remains available. Also in the hatch is a tube for venting gases.

Soil with sand and gravel is laid around the constructed structure, after which they are rammed.

2. Construction of a sewer from a plastic or metal container

the location of the cesspool on the site

The best solution for a cesspool would be a plastic container, the walls of which are protected from the action of organic waste entering inside. When digging a pit, the parameters of a plastic tank are taken into account. The bottom of the pit is reinforced with a sand and gravel cushion or concrete mortar. 24 hours after the preparatory work, a container can be installed, on the side of which, in the area of soil freezing, an opening is made for supplying a drain pipeline. All joints are treated with sealant.

Due to the lack of drainage in such a sewer structure, it must be periodically cleaned with a sewer.

Pipe installation

The composition of the autonomous sewerage of a private house includes a treatment plant, as well as a sewer pipeline. Proper piping is essential to ensure proper operation of the system.

Pipes should be laid according to the following rules:

you need to start their installation from the storage tank in the direction of the details of the internal sewerage of the house;
the pipeline must be insulated to protect it from freezing in cold weather. To do this, you can use the "sandwich" technology, wrapping the pipe with a heater made of specialized foamed polyethylene, on which an asbestos-cement pipeline is then put on;
pipes can be connected by couplings or by welding;
the number of turns should be minimized and pipe bends should be removed so that there are no blockages;
for the gravity movement of drains, an optimal slope must be created;
if it is necessary to design a pipe turn, a rotary sewer well is installed from concrete rings in this area.

Creation of a drainage system

With a properly designed and created drainage system, the house is protected from water, the absence of flooding of roads and vegetation.

cesspool drainage and drainage system