Decorative barrel with your own hands. How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands - step by step instructions and drawings. I will give the dimensions of the rivets

People involved in the production of their own wines, or even simply pickling cucumbers, know very well that there is no better container than a wooden barrel. Why? Firstly, wood is an environmentally friendly material, and secondly, wines contain alcohol, which means that by interacting with synthetic materials - plastic or nylon, it can dissolve chemical composition containers, and it will mix with the components of the wine.

The production process of an oak barrel is not complicated, but it requires strict adherence to the instructions, accuracy and care.

Buying a barrel is not a problem, but if there is a desire and the owner of a home wine factory cares about quality, then a do-it-yourself wooden barrel will be the main proof that wine and cognac are made using the right technology. In addition, the manufacture of wooden barrels is a laborious and long process, but without wisdom.

Stages of work

Oak, ash and cherry are considered the most suitable trees for the production of barrels from them.

It is well known that the most reliable material for the manufacture of wooden barrels will be oak. It is suitable for both wines and cognacs, as well as for pickles. Oak is a natural antiseptic, nitrous and mold will not occur there. But if this is a problem, you can change oak for cherry or ash - these trees contain hydrocyanic acid, which will also prevent pathogens from developing, although their properties are weaker than those of oak. There is no need to be afraid that acid will get into the products: firstly, the barrel is thoroughly soaked before filling the wines, and secondly, a certain percentage of hydrocyanic acid is contained in the wines themselves, it is not dangerous to the body.

Wood calculation. Boards, called riveting, have biconvex sides to give the cooperage product a convexity. To make them like this, you need to take the lower part of the tree trunk and split it with a semblance of chopping firewood. If it is carefully cut, the natural integrity of the fibers will be violated, which is bad for such a product. You should not immediately start curly sawing - the logs need to be dried for 2 months. And dry not under the scorching sun, but in a dark, cool room.

The processing of logs for future barrels is done using a planer. Giving them the desired shape, the top and bottom must be made thicker than the middle. How much - the owner will decide. Usually it is 1.5 cm. The movements of the planer intensify towards the middle of the log, then you can get the same shape as in classic barrels. Basically, barrels can be given any shape - pot-bellied, deck, trapezoidal. The main thing is to do everything right.

Preparation of fastening hoops. They can be both iron and wooden. Wooden ones have advantages in beauty, corrosion protection, but they are not as durable as iron ones, and it will be important for the owner of the wine cellar to preserve wines and barrels, including from mechanical damage. Therefore, iron is preferable. So, stainless steel is cut into strips, for better bonding it can be forged at the junction with each other. After that, holes for nails are punched at the ends, which will play the role of rivets.

Stuffing finished hoops and preparing the skeleton. Three prepared boards are hooked to small hoops with the help of clamps. You need to place them at the same distance from each other. If the calculation was correct, the remaining boards will fit back to back. After full insertion, using a hammer and a nozzle, the hoops should be upset until the moment when they can no longer be removed. By tapping from opposite ends, you can achieve a good effect.

But you can’t overdo it: the boards cooked in a long way will crack, the process will have to be started anew. Also, prepared dies can crack from prolonged drying. This prepares one edge of the barrel. A hoop of a larger diameter must be put on immediately after the first edge, using a hammer. Now it's the turn of the second edge: the workpiece is steamed for a long time before mounting the second end. This is done so that the tree becomes soft and pliable. After that, the workpiece is turned over with the open side up and a rope is thrown over the steamed tree, which is twisted so that the ends of the rivets come together. Without releasing the rope, you need to put on a hoop. Such work is not done alone - someone twists the rope, and someone puts on a hoop.

Shutdown

When the frame is ready, it is hardened.

There are many ways, mainly roasting. At the same time, the smell and astringency of the burnt wood will be transferred to the wine, which will also be appreciated. This is done as follows: inside, on the side of the finished core, they put chips of some fruit tree- Preferably cherry. Ignite and slowly roll from side to side for even smoldering. It is not necessary to make fires inside the workpiece; out of inexperience, you can burn the product. You can not use any liquids for ignition - they have in their composition chemical elements that the tree will absorb. You can use a blowtorch, but with caution - a strong fire can leave unnoticed smoldering in the core, causing the product to burn.

The final stage of creating a barrel is its grinding from the outside, drilling holes for the bay and cutting a gutter for the bottoms.

Further, the barrel manufacturing process is as follows: the workpiece is processed with a tool - uneven ends are cut off, polished from the outside, a hole is drilled for the bay and gutters for the bottoms are cut. The bottoms of the barrels are two circles carved from the likeness of shields. Shields are prepared as follows: boards are overlapped and fastened with additional brackets. Circles are sharpened so that their edges go into a bevel. It is necessary to accurately calculate the diameter of the bottoms. This is done after final assembly skeleton, because it will not work right away. Then the bottoms are inserted by loosening the extreme hoops. After inserting one, you need to fill the hoop again, then do the same with the second bottom.

Leak test. Naturally, the barrel is tested with a liquid, that is, water. It will leak for the first time until the tree swells. Time is allotted for the barrel to stop leaking, no more than an hour. If it still flows, you need to find a gap and close it. Coopers use reed stalks for such purposes. They are plugged between the rivets with a sharp and thin object, for example, a knife. In addition, you can cover the barrel from the outside - with wax. Only you need to take really bee - products should not be with chemistry.

After the production of the barrel is almost completed - it is tempered, fired and checked for leaks, it is steamed or allowed to settle with water so that all extraneous odors that wine can take over from the wood are gone. You can treat the inner surface of the barrel with hydrogen peroxide or potassium permanganate.

Summarizing

It is not difficult to make a barrel with your own hands if you carefully follow the recommendations. Caring for it is extremely simple - you need to steam or boil it regularly, and then dry it very carefully if its use is delayed.

Another important rule: if the barrel is intended for liquid products - brines, alcohol or water, then it must not be left dry for a long time. If it is used for storing dry products, then it cannot be wetted.

There are not so many masters of cooperage today, but the tradition of pickling in tubs, or storing honey and wine in barrels, has remained in Russia to this day. It often happens that it is not possible, for one reason or another, to acquire a wooden container. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Although this is not the easiest task, however, if you set yourself a clear goal and follow all the features of the technology, you can make quite a decent wooden container for storing food and drinks. We will talk about how to make an oak barrel with our own hands below.

We make blanks

To make a container, you first need to select the material. If you want to store beekeeping products inside, pay attention to linden or aspen raw materials, plane trees. Not bad honey is stored in barrels made of poplar, alder wood, willow. An oak barrel is ideal for salting, fermenting or urinating.

If you figured out the raw materials, you should choose an old tree. Its lower part is best suited for rivets. During harvesting, be sure to make sure that the churak is a couple of centimeters larger than the size of the future barrel. This stock is needed for grinding the edges.

The wood must be raw. Initially, the churak splits into 2 parts. For this, an ax and a small log are used, which are gently tapped on the butt. Each half splits in two again. It is necessary to ensure that the separation takes place radially. With each subsequent half, they do the same - the number of blanks depends on the diameter of the oak barrel. It is easy to prepare raw materials with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that blanks may have different widths, but this is not scary.

Rivets are dried indoors, where good natural ventilation is established. The term is at least 1 month, and ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed with special tools. It could be:

plow;
sherhebel;
plane.

First, the outer side of the riveting is processed, be sure to check the degree of curvature according to a pre-prepared template. It can be cut from a thin board, attaching it to the finished product. After all the outer surfaces are processed, you can proceed to the side ones. They are also aligned according to the template, and after processing they are jointed. Inner surface riveting is processed by a planer.

Rings

To make hoops, you can use both steel and wood. The latter option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to metal. For hoops, hot-rolled steel in the form of a strip is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and its thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

It is necessary to make a measurement at the place where the hoop will be stretched. After that, the width of the strip, doubled, is added to a certain value. With the help of a hammer, the workpiece is bent, acquiring the shape of a ring, and then holes are punched or drilled in it and rivets are placed. The material for them is mild steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the inner edges of the hoop must be flared with the pointed end of the hammer.

Assembly subtleties

Making oak barrels with your own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth the time and effort. So, to assemble a barrel for salting, you need a flat surface. To get a finished barrel you need:

The skeleton does not need to be boiled or steamed before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are times when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced coopers replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut a groove from the bottom at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. To do this, a special tool is used - the morning. On both sides of the groove with a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made of a special shield. It is assembled using metal studs or nails. Having drawn a circle, you need to step back from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut out the future bottom. After that, it is cleaned with a sherhebel, and chamfers are cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the rivets there will be no more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the structure.

To make a fitting, loosen the bottom hoop and insert the bottom. It is inserted into the groove from one side, and from the second side it is adjusted with a hammer to the desired level with light taps. With a tight move, you can loosen the hoop a little more, if it goes too freely, it is better to tighten the hoop.

Next, the hoop is stuffed again, and the barrel is checked for leaks. To do this, pour some water into it. If there is a leak between the rivets, you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If water seeps through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is not more than 3 cm and make a cork under it. Correct dimensions it is assumed that it will be slightly more than the thickness of the bottom and will not protrude beyond the skeleton. That's the whole sequence that you need to follow in order to make an oak barrel with your own hands.

Repair

Can it be repaired old barrel? Of course. If an alcoholic drink was stored in it for a long time, it is worth disassembling the structure and removing a layer about 2 mm thick from the tree. Further, the drink does not penetrate into the wood. After that, the rivets are processed and assembled again.

You can repair an oak barrel with your own hands, even if it leaks. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - adjust the hoops.

This is what it is, cooperage business. You can make wooden products yourself, but this requires a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them, if today you can order via the Internet, on the website of the Russian Bondar company?

You can buy almost everything today. But it’s quite difficult to find a wooden barrel, really high-quality, solid, and besides, it is expensive. There is another point that not everyone takes into account - it is not a fact that a finished barrel is suitable for a specific purpose. The reason is the mismatch of the wood species. The conclusion is unequivocal - to make a barrel yourself. And if you deal in detail with the drawings, the nuances of the work, then it will not turn out to be any complicated and impossible with your own hands.

Pine

Elasticity, bending flexibility.
Easily processed with household tools.

When the temperature rises, it will resin abundantly.
The characteristic smell that will always be present inside the barrel.

Recommendation - such wooden barrels are not used for storing food or fermenting anything.

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

Big weight.

Recommendation - it is advisable to use for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transportation (storage) of bulk materials.

Oak

It bends beautifully after the tree is well steamed.
Contains fungicides that protect structural elements barrels from decay.

High material cost. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use a tree that is at least 80-100 years old.

Recommendation - if the barrel is intended for storage (sourdough) of products, aging of wines, and so on, then oak boards should be chosen.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, you can also use such types of wood as linden, ash, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material is a rather specific issue. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (salting) of cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then the best tree for her - oak. This is undeniable. But it is hardly correct to spend such wood (given its cost) on making a container with your own hands, in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products. Other breeds, “simpler”, are quite suitable for these purposes.

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and installation location, the dimensions and design features. In everyday life there is some confusion with the concepts. In principle, both the tub and the barrel are containers of a certain capacity, which are assembled manually from separate boards (staves, fret in the language of professionals). The difference is only in the geometry. The pictures explain everything well.

What is defined for the drawing:

Barrel height
Diameters (large and small).
The angle of the staves and their number.

To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on typical data that are used by specialists when drawing up barrel drawings.

Do-it-yourself wooden barrel - instructions

The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which show the main stages of work.

But separate explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made from logs or boards. The first option is preferable, although its implementation by hand is much more difficult. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk goes to the manufacture of the barrel, from the roots to the branches. You will have to chop logs (decks) on your own.

What is the feature?

The ax blade must hit exactly in the center, along the diametral line. This will somewhat facilitate the work and allow you to get high-quality rivets in larger quantities (based on each deck).

Boards are obtained by splitting, hewing chocks. Wood processing is always carried out along the fibers, and not across.

It is advisable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets. Why, it will become clear when describing the assembly order of the barrel.

To facilitate bending, the rivets are given an irregular geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by about 0.2. That is, if it is supposed to assemble a barrel from 10 mm boards with your own hands, then they are hewn with the expectation that their thickness in the lower and upper parts of the container is at least 12.

Drying staves

Various sources indicate terms that are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). At this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, the initial and its porosity. Recommendations for artificially accelerating this process when doing do-it-yourself work are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine the optimal mode for the same electric / cabinet and the exposure time of the tree in it. Experienced craftsmen it is advised to wait until the moisture evaporates from the wood naturally.

It is only necessary to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel "in one day" is not made, and this must be understood.

If we are talking about a container for household purposes, then you can dry the staves even on the stove. But in any case, a barrel is not assembled from raw boards. After a couple of weeks (due to shrinkage of the wood), gaps will begin to appear between them. Checked.

hoops

Finding metal strips, drilling holes for rivets with your own hands is easy. The only thing you should pay attention to is that it is better to take tool steel. It is characterized by increased strength (tensile strength) and corrosion resistance. If it is pre-treated with drying oil and then burned (for example, with a blowtorch), you will get hoops of the original light brown shade.

Bottom

It is cut out of a shield, which is assembled by hand from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, using a different technology than frets (sidewalls). Their thickness does not change along the length. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the ends are milled, that is, the assembly is carried out according to the well-known tenon-groove principle. In some cases, special (sealing) rails are installed.

Barrel assembly

The sequence of actions is shown in this figure.

This work is not done alone; 2 - 3 assistants will definitely be needed. Rivets are placed along the lower hoop with maximum fit. If the last board does not "fit in", it should be trimmed slightly to size. This is where spares come in handy, since the first or even the second time, with your own hands, without experience, it may not be possible to adjust the “finishing” board. A little bust with a sample of wood, and it will have to be rejected.

The penultimate stage - installation of the bottom

And only after that, the hoops are coupled (if they are adjustable) or their final landing in place (in height).

The last step is wood sanding.

How to process the barrel from the outside is decided on the spot (“skin” and manually, sanding / machine), but after that it is desirable to cover the container with beeswax (thin layer). This will provide additional protection for the tree from external factors.

Good luck, beginner coopers!

Instruction

First of all, choose wood, depending on your purpose. Linden, aspen, poplar, willow, alder are suitable for storing honey. Oak is best suited for salting, pickling or urinating. For other needs, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch are used.

Blanks or staves are made from raw wood, from the bottom of the trunk. Chock, which is 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting, radially split into blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. Then fold the blanks for a month or more in a room with natural ventilation to dry .

Process the dried blanks with a plow and planer, first from the outside, checking the curvature according to the template taken from the finished product. Then process the side surfaces with a jointer, also taking into account the curvature according to the template, and the inner ones, to reduce the thickness in the middle, with an ax.
For the taper of the tub and the convexity of the barrel, the value of the riveting extensions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrowest part. For a tub, the lower end is wider, for a barrel - the middle of the riveting.

For the manufacture of hoops, take a hot-rolled steel strip 1.6-2 mm thick and 30-50 mm wide. To calculate the length of the future hoop, add double the width of the strip to the dimensions of the barrel at the place of the screed. Bend the tape into a ring, punch or drill holes and rivet with soft steel wire 4-5 mm in diameter.
Roll one end of each hoop with a hammer on an anvil. According to the location on the barrel, the hoops are called as follows: the central one is "onion", the extreme one is "morning", the intermediate one is "cervical".

Assemble on a flat surface, pressing two rivets against each other with staples against the morning hoop. Then, in turn, we insert the following staves, collecting the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Tapping with a hammer, we upset the hoop until the edges of the rivets are tightly connected.
If there is a gap left that the last rivet won't fit, don't be afraid to trim it to the correct width, or remove another narrow rivet and insert a wide one.

Trim the ends of the skeleton with a hammer, put on an onion hoop and push it all the way with a hammer. Having set the base evenly, pull off the other edge of the core with a rope loop with a lever. Having planted the second morning hoop, align the ends of the rivets with a humpback planer, 2-3 mm from the hoops.
From one edge of the skeleton, make a groove with a depth and width of 3 mm on the inside with the help of a morten, into which you subsequently insert the bottom.

Assemble the bottom from boards fitted along the edges, nailing them together with brackets, and then cut them along a pre-drawn circle. Insert the bottom after loosening the morning hoop somewhat by adjusting the tightness of entry and pressing in with light blows of the hammer. The second bottom is also inserted on the other side, with the only difference being that a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is first drilled in it, to which a cork is adjusted.

Do-it-yourself oak barrel, product drawings. Before proceeding with production, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with GOST 8777-80, which establishes the main dimensions and parameters for jellied and dry wooden barrels.

Consider an example, making a container of 15 liters, which will consist of twenty rivets.

Klepka.
Donets.
Morning hoop.
The hoop is fart.

The entire manufacturing process can be conditionally divided into four stages.

Stage I. Dimensions and parameters of the barrel.

To do this, depending on the volume of the product:

From table No. 1 we select the main parameters and dimensions

From table number 2, select the dimensions of the rivets

From table number 3, select the number of metal hoops

By simple geometric constructions, we draw a riveting.

The length of the riveting in unfolded form is determined by the formula: l = 2πRα/360

Substitute the values and get l \u003d 2 x 3.14 x 1282.04 x 15.69 / 360 \u003d 350.9(mm)

We determined the dimensions of the blanks for riveting, which amounted to 18 x 46 x 351(mm)

Stage II. Donets manufacturing.

We accept the sizes indicated in tables No. 1, No. 2.

Riveting connection on the rail.
Marking and cutting out a circle.
Removing bevels.

Stage III. Making a hoop.

Marking on sheet metal.
Cutting sheet metal with a thickness of 1 ... 2 (mm).
The connection of the hoop with rivets.
Hoop forging.

Stage IV. Oak barrel assembly sequence.

Attaching three rivets to the hoop and inserting the rest
Installing a neckband.
Steaming rivets.
Pulling the rivets with a collar.
Installation of the morning hoop.
Skeleton assembly.
Bottom insert.
Installation of the morning hoop.

An oak barrel, made according to the drawings with your own hands, is an excellent vessel for many years of aging alcoholic beverages and harvesting pickles for the winter.