Is it possible to make compost in an iron barrel. How to make compost in a barrel: installation methods, laying raw materials, ripening dates. Calculation of the compost pit. Requirements and norms

On summer cottages the compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is exceptional in quality organic fertilizer which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace expensive manure, mineral fertilizers or specially imported fertile soil. In addition, by collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage, and the area around it.

The compost heap or waste compost bins are usually placed in a place that is sufficiently secluded on the site so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. However, they should always be, as they say, at hand. In the "classic" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bunker, the process of laying waste is in progress, in the other, the compost matures, in the third - finished fertilizer awaiting removal to the beds. Regarding the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in various reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal flow of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to annually shovel the contents of the heaps to aerate the ripening compost, that is, to speed up the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.

However, composting technology garden plot was constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the composting process was accelerated by 2 ... 3 times. So, in order to maintain moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost began to be covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". Yes, and the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all necessary to follow the fairly strict recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So in our time, a compost heap can be made quite small or, for this purpose, waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of just 1 m 3, having built it, for example, from boards.

However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of progress", we will not build anything. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit. Firstly, to ensure air access to the composted mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make a dozen two or three holes, which, for example, will be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm or we will break through with some kind of punch (Fig. 1). We will place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cm from the base of the barrel. No insulating gaskets between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we will paint the outside of the barrel with dark paint, due to which the walls of the barrel will heat up more under the sun, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, understandably, will speed up the composting process.

Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2 ... 3 such compost barrels around the site, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, the individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.

So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer of them 15 ... 20 cm thick. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or substances rich in nitrogen). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash is poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. We cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a string. And so that the prepared compost does not dry out, it is poured with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moisturizing the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but the compost mass should not be heavily waterlogged. The mass corresponding to the squeezed sponge in terms of humidity is considered normal. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.

To "automatically" maintain the specified humidity in the striker, plant zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber in the barrel. In this case, the plastic film is no longer needed. Watering the mentioned plants provides the necessary humidity of the composted mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.

Experience has shown that in such a design of a compost bin - an old barrel, the composting process is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classic version. It is not required, and shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg excellent fertilizer.

Rice. 1. Composting in iron barrel: 1- hole in the barrel wall; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- earth; 6- polyethylene.

Gusev V. old barrel instead of a compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what correct use will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

Interesting fact:
Already in the X century, the secrets of making compost
were known to the Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can get without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it right.

Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to compost

There are two options:

Compost pit/heap
Compost bin or barrel

Benefits of a compost pit/heap

No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (you will get a bunch over time).

If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long overcome this mark. But I haven't built anything yet.

If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap

There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly - I can not shovel it.

In a compost pit for 1 year it will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost. It will take at least 3 years. But in it, it is apparently invisible. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And carp on such a worm are excellent.

(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)

Compost bin or barrel

In the garden, I also placed a box and two compost bins. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are collected in one container, in another container the compost matures under the lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I additionally punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slop.

My compost bin is made from boards. But you can make it from cement-bonded particle boards with a thickness of 20 mm or metal mesh.

Benefits of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden/garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it won't take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to holes and crevices, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and does not wash out.
A barrel or box with ripened compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out a kind high bed.

Rule 2
What can be put in compost

1. All plant residues and weeds from garden beds and gardens, except:

* weeds with mature seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides

Plant residues that are not suitable for compost I put in a special pile, hidden behind the fence in the back. Or take it out of the field.

2. Mowed grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if any, peat.

Speaking of fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.

3. Household (kitchen) waste, slop.

If slop from the kitchen is regularly poured into the compost barrel, then the barrel can not be specially watered. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.

4. Ash and, if any, bird droppings.

The alternation of layers occurs by itself, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, cut grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.

Manure (slurry) I don't compost. Firstly, we do not have this “good”. Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost rots for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.

It is not necessary to add earth to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.

Rich harvests to you,
Katerina Shlykova

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page on the site.

Compost heap for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost box, manure, DIY

In summer cottages, a compost heap is a mandatory attribute. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and imported specially fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic debris throughout the site, we simply clean up the area around.

Of course, you should place a compost heap or waste composting boxes in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and do not spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. In the case of a classic composting solution, three sections are needed for the production of compost: in one, the process of laying waste is underway, in the other, the compost matures, and in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds. In terms of size, many converge to the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the ripening compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?

But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with holes for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug “Tamir”. To speed up the process, you can also choose a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 - holes in the barrel wall;
2 - green mass;
3 - manure;
4 - ash;
5 - earth;
6 - polyethylene.

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or, for this purpose, waste can be folded into a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meters, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit:

Firstly, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we make 20-30 holes with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. We place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating gaskets are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.

Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel in a dark color for better heating in the sun, which will ensure high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.

The process of making compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several of these barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It could be summer cuisine, beds, etc.
Layers for laying compost

To speed up the production of compost, the fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, we place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making a layer of them 15-20 cm thick.

Then we put 5 cm of manure or substances rich in nitrogen.

After we break everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

We cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic film with holes, which we tie with twine so that it is not blown away by the wind. From time to time water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. You can water at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not necessary to overmoisten the compost mass. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.

If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will keep the compost heap moist. The complexity of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all the layers of compost to the top.

In this design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel, there is a significant acceleration of the composting process. And you do not need to wait 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

Cultivated plants and trees require a regular supply nutrients, and the soil is gradually depleted. Therefore, it is required to regularly apply top dressing to the soil - organic and mineral. Chemicals have not only a positive effect on green spaces, so modern vegetable growers prefer not to use such products for fertilizing vegetables and fruits, but prefer dressings made from natural ingredients.

One such fertilizer is compost. It can be made from vegetable waste that remains after weeding in the garden or in the garden, as well as from food and other components. To get a complete top dressing, the necessary elements must rot.

Pits are dug under the compost in the plots, where they put plant waste, from which in the future an excellent tool is obtained to improve soil fertility. But some gardeners do compost dressing in old boxes, an iron barrel, and in any other containers that are no longer used for their intended purpose.

Below we will talk about how to make compost in a barrel, about the main advantages of natural fertilizer, as well as about the nuances of preparing organic matter in this way.

Top dressing, obtained by decomposition of organic elements, has a positive effect on the composition of the soil, increases fertility, and there are practically no costs for its preparation. As a basis for the compost, they dig a hole (or make a container in which organic garbage will overheat), and then put all the plant debris from the site there.

If there is no place in the garden for a hole (or there is no way to dig it), then an ordinary barrel is suitable for preparing organic fertilizer. So that the process of fermentation of plant waste is not accompanied bad smell, a lid is attached to this container.

Advantages over a compost pit

Barrel advantages:

• 1) it can be placed in any free corner of the site;
• 2) installation does not require much space;
• 3) appearance more aesthetic (compared to a pit);
• 4) small holes can be made in the neck of the barrel for oxygen to enter, which is necessary for beneficial bacteria for life;
• 5) it is possible to make a hole in the lower part of the structure through which ready-made compost can be taken;
• 6) in a barrel, organic fertilizer will not dry out or be washed out by melting snow or other precipitation;
• 7) in a container with an already ripe dressing, you can grow cucumbers or zucchini.

But there are benefits to composting in a pit too:

• no need to start large-scale construction, it is enough to dig a square recess with sides of 1.4 m and a depth of 0.5 m;
• the pit can be filled throughout the season without thinking about a possible lack of space;
• plant components are put into a pit and after filling it, if it is not possible to dig another one, then a compost heap will grow from above.

But such recesses without covers with clusters formed on top spoil the view of the site, spread an unpleasant smell around.

What to put in a barrel?

Make compost in the garden with my own hands easily. A barrel of any size is suitable for this, but a large one is better - more waste will fit in it. The only caveat is that in the container for the decomposition of organic residues there should not be metal parts in contact with decay products.

Put into the barrel:

• weeds, plant debris, small tree branches;
• grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and shavings, peat;
• food waste and slop;
• wood ash, chicken manure.

You can not add weeds with seeds, diseased parts of plants, as well as animal manure to the compost: along with it, there is a risk of bringing pathogenic microflora into the preparing organic matter.

The order of laying raw materials

It is necessary to lay all plant and food residues in a container in crushed form so that they rot faster. Layers of organic matter are sprinkled with earth, peat or chicken manure.

The process of composting waste is faster if water or slop is added to the barrel daily (for such irrigation, weed infusion, drunk tea leaves, coffee grounds are used).

It is best to alternate the following layers of organics and other substances:

• plant remains;
• bird droppings;
• wood ash;
• priming.

Compost maturation in a barrel

To get rotted organic fertilizer, you have to wait: the process of decay in a compost barrel lasts 2-3 seasons. The time interval depends on the degree of grinding of raw materials and the presence of favorable microflora, under the influence of which decay occurs.

If you start using manufactured top dressing at the end of the first season, then it will be better than simple land from the site, but less valuable in terms of nutrients than 2-3 year old compost.

Signs of compost maturation

It is easy to determine the degree of readiness of organic matter:

• in high-quality fertilizer, all plant residues have rotted;
• it is homogeneous and friable (no sieving is required before entering into the soil);
• you can calmly take it in your hands - it will be soft and dry;
• Completely rotted compost smells pleasantly of forest, mushrooms and fallen leaves.

You can prepare such a high-quality organic supplement in any container, the main thing is to put only plant residues and food into it, as well as regularly add moisture for better decay.

Fully matured compost is an excellent fertilizer for garden plants, flowers, shrubs and trees. It is used to prepare a nutrient substrate for growing seedlings. vegetable crops, are added to the soil when replanting indoor flowers (those that benefit from organic top dressing).

This nutritional supplement is applied in large quantities when digging the garden and vegetable garden in the fall, when during the season the plants have taken a large amount of nutrients from the soil.

Making compost in a barrel is a simple and inexpensive way. Despite the duration of ripening, top dressing can compete with artificial fertilizers due to its effectiveness and safety for plants.