Warped products will be eliminated thanks to the right methods of work and fixtures.

You only have a few minutes to assemble the project parts, line up the edges and tighten the clamps. By the way, are you sure that all the corners are right? Using the right tools and accessories, as well as several useful tips, you will be able to achieve perfect results every time without too much fuss.

Assembly accuracy depends on the squareness of the parts, so before you start processing parts, make sure that your equipment (saw, planer, thicknesser and other machines) is set up correctly. Then prepare a flat and clean work surface for assembly. To succeed, learn one or more of the tried-and-tested tricks to avoid misalignment.

One piece aligns another

Dry-assemble the box and rock it from side to side to make sure that the bottom inserted into the tongues ensures the assembly is square.

If all the parts of your project initially had right angles, they will align each other when assembled, provided that the clamps are installed correctly. As shown in top photo, Precisely cut at right angles, the crossbeam hangers automatically align the frame. The trick is to direct the compression force of the clamps perpendicular to the edges of the parts. If you place the clamp at an angle, the pressure can cause it to skew.

Another way to make the assembly self-leveling is for the plywood bottom or back wall to fit snugly into the tongues or folds to keep the box or cabinet square. (photo A).

Need gaps around the bottom or infill to compensate for seasonal humidity fluctuations?

To assemble a box with a bottom, insert the assembly template into it and fix it with clamps. Clamp pressure is distributed by clamping bars installed next to the joints, and not on top of them.

Make a simple assembly template that fits snugly into the drawer opening (photo B), and make cutouts on its corners so that it does not stick to the details.

When assembling drawers where the straight spikes protrude slightly at the corners, use spacers or hold down bars as shown. (photo B), so that the jaws of the clamps do not touch the joints. This method is also useful when assembling dovetail joints.

As per template

For precise alignment and fixation of simple butt joints, it is convenient to use a metal mounting bracket (photo C), which holds the parts at right angles to each other and prevents them from moving. If you prefer homemade devices, make your own mounting brackets in any size (photoD). Brief advice! No mounting brackets? There is a way to ensure the immobility of the butt joint parts when gluing. First, apply glue to the end of one piece, then join both pieces, rubbing them together to spread the glue. Separate them for 10-15 seconds, let the glue dry a little and become more viscous and sticky, and then rub the parts together again. Increasing the viscosity of the adhesive will help to avoid shifting parts when installing clamps.

This mounting bracket, thanks to its rounded outside corner adheres tightly to both glued parts.

When determining the dimensions of a homemade mounting bracket, make cutouts in it that correspond to the jaws of the clamps you have.

Other do-it-yourself leveling devices are clamping bars or strips of arbitrary sizes with cutouts that hold the parts in position and at the same time distribute the pressure of the clamps (photo E). Prism bars with V-groove help to tighten parts tightly corner connections on the mustache

Cutouts in the pressure bars prevent parts from shifting, and prism bars, clamped diagonally with clamps, compress the parts together.

The steel band of this clip distributes pressure to all four corners, tightly tightening the joints of the barbed parts.

Some clamping devices, due to the design features, help to ensure the squareness of the gluing. For example, a band clamp with four corner blocks (photoF) and four-sided screw clamp for frame assembly (photoG) allow you to align all four corners at the same time.

Four-sided screw clamps, commonly used for gluing frames, can be used in pairs to assemble drawers. metal corner details help to achieve squareness.

Compare lengths of diagonals without measuring them with a tape measure

Even if you don't have a square to trust, you can check the squareness of an assembly by comparing the distances between opposite corners. If the diagonals are equal (and opposite parts are also the same length), you can be sure that all corners are right. If clamps interfere with measuring with a tape measure, or if you are gluing several of the same products, try another method. Saw out two thin slats from scraps. The length of each of them must be more than half the length of the diagonals. Then cut one end of each batten at an angle of about 30°. Pressing the bevels to the opposite inside corners assembly, fold the slats together and fasten them with a clip. Then, with the same straightedge, measure the other diagonal to make sure the assembly is square. To correct skew, use a long clamp to carefully tighten opposite corners along the longer diagonal.

Auxiliary devices for gluing wood products

The use of wood glue is mandatory for most joints used in the manufacture of various wood products. The connection should dry under force, and you can create and adjust the amount of effort using special devices. Clamps and clamps are the most common, they can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The second option, in our deep conviction, is preferable. Why? Firstly, a thing that we received “almost for free” is always much nicer for us than something bought in a store for relatively big money. Secondly, during production, you can take into account your own needs to the maximum extent, it is very difficult to find the desired option in the store.

Clamp

How to make wooden clamps

Clamps are very often used during the manufacture of individual small pieces of furniture. The advantages include ease of use and manufacture, reliability of fixation and small size. The disadvantages include the inability to work with parts that have large linear dimensions. This is especially true for industrial clamps, it is very difficult to find large clamps, they are available only in large specialized stores. And there are such stores in big cities, while many craftsmen do not have the opportunity to often travel to the city in search of the right tools and accessories.

The way out is to make the clamp yourself, especially since this is not so difficult. For the manufacture, you will need several bars or slats of hardwood and a minimal set of carpentry tools.

The thickness of the bar is within 30 mm, the thickness of the rails is within 10 mm. Cut out from the bar the front stop of the clamp in the form of a hammer, the clamping element and the device for attaching the screw handle. Make a ruler from a thin rail, firmly connect the front stop to the ruler in a tenon / groove, be sure to use wood glue. The other two parts should have holes in which the ruler will easily move. As a clamping device, you can use any metal bolt of a suitable diameter with a coarse thread. The larger the thread and the longer the thread section in the screw stop, the greater the force that can be generated during clamping of the parts.

There is a huge amount various kinds clamps, we settled on the most simple and very reliable. It is necessary to make other special clamps only for those specialists who are engaged in the production of a large number of identical products. Then you need to have special clamps for clamping corner joints on the “mustache” and ordinary ones, for clamping very small elements of wooden structures, etc. For most craftsmen, it is enough to have simple clamps, they can be used to make most carpentry connections.

How to make wyms

Vyma - a device in which glued joints can be made over large areas. They are used in the manufacture of windows and doors, furniture panels and other products with large overall dimensions. Industrial clamps are quite practical, but they are not always available and for the price these devices can turn off some consumers. We will tell you how to make a wyma from metal and wood.

Simple metal wedge

You will need a corner with dimensions of at least 50 × 50 mm, a few bolts and threaded stops. A frame is made from a corner, drill holes on it symmetrically at regular intervals, stops will be fixed in these holes to regulate the length of the parts to be glued. The picture shows how to weld metal screw clamps. We used standard ones, but you can use large bolts with permanently welded nuts. To increase the stability of the rails, you need to weld the footboards, make them from scraps of a corner. The principle of operation is very simple - after installing the part to be glued using wrench bolts must be tightened. Do not forget to put gaskets between the wooden product and the metal stops.

The advantage of such a clamp is that you can clamp different sizes wooden structures. The disadvantage is the uneven clamping along the length. You need to make several pieces or use very strong and rigid gaskets in the form of metal channels or I-beams.

wooden wyma

Even more simple design, it can be made in just a few hours from lumber waste. Production material - wooden bars 50 × 80 mm, the length depends on the expected length of the glued elements. Choose the number of bars taking into account the width of the products, the distance between the bars should not be more than 20 centimeters. The figure shows the manufacturing scheme, we will only describe some of the features of using a home-made wooden rim.

There are two options for clamping the product: metal screws or wooden wedges. In order to use the first option, you need to find or separately purchase metal screws, but we do not advise you to bother. The clamp is perfectly performed with wooden wedges. To do this, you need to pre-prepare them, do not make the angle of the wedge very large during manufacture - it will be difficult to hammer it in and the risk of spontaneous loss of clamps will increase.

Insert the part into the fixture, using slats or boards of various widths, first reduce the gap between the part and the top lath of the clamp. Drive wedges into the small gap between them. If you wish, you can slightly improve the device we offer. To do this, it is necessary to drill through holes at regular intervals in vertical racks, they will make it possible to automatically adjust the gap between the workpiece and the upper horizontal bar, the wedges will be easier to pick up, the fixation will be more stable. Another, easiest, clamping method is to use rubber bands and wrap them around the parts with tension.

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  • Any frame - large or small - is a "strict" design: it makes serious demands on the squareness of the corners and their careful execution and connection. To simplify production and get high-quality frames with less labor, the French magazine System D offers two simple and convenient fixtures, which you can do yourself: a tablet for sawing bars or a baguette and a press for gluing blanks.

    Angle is out of sight

    When making frame blanks, the most difficult thing is to cut them strictly at an angle of 45 °. In scrap and designed to help a tablet that will serve as a good addition to a small circular saw or a jigsaw and will replace the traditional fixture - a miter box, which is used when working with a hand saw.

    The tablet consists of a small wooden shield - the base and two persistent rails, installed strictly at an angle of 90 ° with respect to each other. The base of the tablet is a hardwood board 25 mm thick and approximately 400 × 250 mm in size. Instead, a furniture shield or chipboard can also be used.

    On one side of the base, a small cut is made - a slot into which saw blade or jigsaw blade. On both sides of the cut, indented to its width, two thrust bars are attached, the opposite ends of which are sawn off strictly at an angle of 45 °. That's the whole tablet device. It is convenient to use it on a saw table, on which two parallel grooves are milled for this, and two guides that respond to them are attached to the bottom of the tablet. Thanks to them, the tablet can slide with slight friction along the guide grooves, strictly maintaining the direction of its feed.

    1 - base; 2 - guides; 3 - propyl; 4 - persistent bars; 5 - screws

    1 - coupler with holes; 2 - angle-lock; 3 - protective gasket

    The picture shows how the plate with the frame blank is installed and how it is fed for sawing when the plate moves along the guide grooves towards the saw.

    In order to cut a baguette on one of the sides of the frame, you need to mark its internal dimensions with a pencil. Then the baguette is pressed (outside) against the corresponding stop bar so that the length mark is against the slot. Now, when moving the tablet towards the saw blade, the baguette is cut at an angle of 45° automatically. In the same way, the ends of all other rails that form the frame are cut off.

    Gluing press

    However, preparing parts of the frame is still half the battle. The next task is to securely glue them together. A very simple press for assembling them will help out here. It consists of four ties - wooden slats from hardwood with a section of 30 × 30 mm, with holes drilled in them with a diameter of 4 mm. The ties are connected in pairs with each other using a loop - a connecting bar with dimensions of 100x30x30 mm and bolts with nuts (solid). In addition to the ties, four fixing brackets are made. They are cut from hardwood blocks with a thickness of 30 mm. Each latch has a spike at the bottom - a screwed screw with a diameter of 4 mm, with a cut head.

    1 - ties (perforated slats); 2 - connecting loop; 3 - squares-clamps; 4 - clamp

    In order to actuate the press, the ties are laid on a flat surface (table) in the form of the letter X. Depending on the size of the frame, clamps are inserted into the corresponding holes in the ties. It remains to apply glue to the joints of the baguette rails to be connected "on the mustache" and lay them in the clamps. Now you need one single clamp. With its help, the connecting bars of the screeds are pulled together, and hence the baguette ends in the clamps, ensuring their tight connection and holding them in the desired position until the glue seizes.

    With this device, you can glue wooden panels different sizes. The clamp itself is easy to use and has a fairly simple design. In the presence of the right materials making such a clamp for a home workshop will not be difficult.

    For the manufacture of home-made clamps (they are also called clamps), you will need a stud with M10 nuts, a 20 mm steel strip and two rectangular shaped pipes with sides of 40x20 mm, 80 cm long. These materials can be bought inexpensively at a hardware store.

    Clamps for gluing shields: stages of work

    On profile pipes we make markings and drill through holes every 15 cm, using a conventional or stepped drill for this. We cut the steel strip with a grinder into segments 150 mm long. In these plates, we drill two holes of the desired diameter.

    Profile pipes are connected to each other using plates. You will also need stops - movable square shape and fixed T-shaped, welded from a profile with side dimensions of 20x20 mm. We screw a hairpin of a suitable length into the movable clamp.


    Features of using a clamp

    It is good because when gluing wooden shields clamps the workpiece from four sides in two planes. Thus, the gluing is of very high quality. By rearranging the T-shaped fixed stop, you can adjust the length. See the video on our website for the assembly process of the clamp for gluing wooden shields.


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