Instructions on how to make an ax with your own hands - a step-by-step description of how to create and assemble. Taiga ax: drawing. Forged taiga ax How to make a taiga ax from an ordinary one

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It doesn't take much time, effort and Money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In stores you can find many different models there are quite a few such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible according to any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and others. deciduous trees relating to hard rocks. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high quality handles. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a very long time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax handle.

How to make a template?

If you have material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• branchy;
• cleaver;
• butcher's.

Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

The template with its correct shape and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules which must be adhered to in the course of work.

• The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

When making an ax handle yourself, you need to act very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

• Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
• Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

• At a specialized outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
• Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly not recommended to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution to protect the ax from rotting, other suitable impregnations will become. You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. They turn to such a trick not at all to make the tool more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen it is strongly not recommended to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan on cutting wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive Sun rays may adversely affect the quality wood detail. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

In every country house there are a number of necessary tools for different jobs. To build a house, chop wood or butcher meat, an ax is required. You can buy it at the store or make your own. The purchased tool may be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is not safe. The tool, made by hand, is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.

Types of axes

The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.

In addition to the main axes, there are tools designed for special work. This includes: a cleaver, carpentry, large carpentry, sculptural ax, as well as figured tools and an ax for concave surfaces.

Self-made ax

Components of an ax: an ax handle, a metal sheet and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called an ax handle. Let's see how to do it right and right size. To do this, you need to select the material and extrude the workpiece according to the template.

homemade product impregnated with a protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. Coating products with varnishes and paints is not recommended. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip during operation. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The handle of the tool acquires a bright color, which is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not be lost.

Choosing a metal nozzle

It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so they buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a stabbing part:

1. A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips and dents.
2. Metal is marked according to GOST.
3. The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
4. The eyelet must be cone-shaped.

Attachment of an ax on an ax handle

The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, planting and wedging.

It is possible to eliminate the cracks that will occur when fitting a metal sheet using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then you can saw off the protruding part.

Blade sharpening and hardening

The performance of the tool depends on a sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, its own blade processing angle is selected.

Sharpening is done on an electric grinding wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To prevent the quality of the cutting edge from deteriorating, the blade must not be allowed to overheat. To do this, a container with water is installed near the grinder. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a whetstone or sandpaper.

A metal blade made of soft material will often have to be sharpened. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. To do this, you need a gas burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everyone repeats 3 times.

Recently there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Youth becomes blacksmiths. Knives and axes made by them are real works of art.

Nothing is impossible

Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, it turns out to be much more difficult.

In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, breakdowns for an eye. This set of tools is not for everyone. Of course, you can make a bugle and breakouts, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.

Making an ax by the locksmith method

Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the locksmith method. The ax consists of three parts:

• ax blade
• ax handle

If everything is clear with the materials for the manufacture of an ax handle and a wedge, then the question of what, most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the canvas consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:

• blade metal strip
• piece of pipe for the butt

Blade

A full size drawing will show the quantity required material. The blade needs a hard metal, such as a car spring.

We transfer the contour of the drawing to the spring and saw off everything superfluous. We also do descents with the help of a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal, so that the edge remains solid and keeps sharpening well.

Butt

For the butt of a medium ax, you will need a pipe with an inner diameter of 38-40 mm. Better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it, for example, with a gas burner, and squeeze it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.

Canvas assembly

We connect the blade and butt by welding. It is important to boil the metal with high quality so that the ax does not crack during operation.

Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, grind again. For extra strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.

ax

A good ax implies the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made of, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.

The most common tree for making an ax handle is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping firewood, but for the soul, then you should look for a wood species with a more expressive texture.

Wood for the hatchet

An ax handle made of ash, elm, hornbeam will look very nice. It is problematic only to buy boards from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use the Internet trading.

The tree for the ax handle should be well dried, be free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature for six months

The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to customs, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.

Action plan

Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A list of actions will help to avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.

Note!

The step-by-step process of how to make a pen at home will look like this:

• drawing up a sketch of an ax handle and a template
• wood processing
• ax attachment
• finish coating.

Sketch and template of an ax handle

For comfortable work, the ax is made about 50-70 cm. By drawing a sketch in full size, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.

Roughing

According to the template, we outline the contour of the handle on the tree and cut out the workpiece. We give a more rounded shape to the handle. For these purposes, you can use a planer, chisels or a small hatchet.

Fit

The next step in the manufacture of an ax handle is to fit the shape and ergonomics. We grind the tree to give the correct shape and comfortable grip.

For these purposes, a large rasp is perfect, as well as a grinding power tool. The main thing here is not to weaken the place where the ax is mounted on the ax handle.

Note!

Sanding and assembly

After rough processing, we sand the handle with sandpaper and make a slot under the wedge. We upset the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise to put the wedge on the glue or epoxy resin. The choice is yours.

Finishing

The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The tree can be stained or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.

For greater exclusivity, the handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire incisions. On the canvas of the ax, the pattern etched in saline will look beautiful.

Conclusion

Buying an ax for chopping wood is very simple, and there is no need to make it yourself for this purpose. Homemade axes are more used as a subject of creativity, but he is able to fulfill his direct duties.

Some independent copies will give odds to industrial designs, give owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.

Photo of a homemade ax

Note!

Undoubtedly, people who live in a private house or often go on hikes need such an indispensable tool as an ax. To buy it, you just need to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, you can make it yourself. Moreover, this can be done very easily if you use the instructions and tips for its manufacture.

Ax classification

Axes are of the following types:

1. Carpentry. Light, small axes necessarily with a sharp blade. Designed for cutting and precise work with wood.
2. Carpentry universal. Axes of different weights. They don't have big handles. They are used for inaccurate wood processing.
3. Lumberjack's ax. Used for cutting wood, has a wide blade and a long handle.
4. Ice ax Used in mountaineering. It consists of a spike, a head, a blade and a handle sharpened at the base. Outwardly, it looks like a pickaxe.
5. Cleaver. A cone-shaped ax with a large weight. The shape and weight help split hard woods.
6. Blacksmith. With this ax it is possible to chop off metal materials. They put an ax to the place where you need to chop off, and hit the butt with a hammer.
7. Potes. With its help, they cut a tree. For efficiency, the ax has a rounded blade.
8. Povarskaya. An ax with a shortened handle and a heavy and sharp cutting surface.
9. Paznik. Used for grooving with a rib on a blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the ax handle.
10. Firefighter. An ax with a metal handle that is insulated to withstand a voltage of 1000W. Its peculiarity is that there is a spike on the butt, which is used to cut a passage through the rubble.
11. Storm firefighter. Massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, it is used to break down heavy structures.
12. Tourist. A small ax with a short handle. It happens in combination with a knife or saw. For safety, it comes with a case.
13. Tsalda. The ax blade, made in the form of a sickle, is used to clean the area from small shrubs.

Self-manufacturing

The order of work is as follows:

Ax extrusion work

Before starting work, it is necessary to make transverse cuts at the top and bottom of the timber. The depth of the cuts should not reach the line of the ax by 2-3 mm. Chisel remove the extra layer of wood. With a rasp, cut out places where corners and transitions are needed. At the end, the ax handle is polished with sandpaper.

Choice of piercing part

At home, a metal sheet cannot be made, so you need to know what to look for when choosing it in a building market:

• ideally, steel should be marked according to GOST;
• the eye must be in the shape of a cone;
• the blade should not have dents, bends or notches;
• if you look at the butt, then its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Mounting an ax on an ax handle

You can do this by following these simple steps:

1. On the ax in the upper part, transverse and longitudinal cuts are made.




2. Cut 5 wedges from hardwood.




3. The gauze soaked in resin is wound over the ax handle for a tighter passage into the eye.




4. Hammer the ax into the eye of the ax.




5. Drive wedges into the cuts.




6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut off.

Blade sharpening

Good functionality of the ax will provide correct sharpening blades. Depending on the type of work performed, you should choose the angle of sharpening.

For example, a taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If you need to cut fresh wood, you need to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees.

If a grinding wheel is used, the butt should be held at a 45 degree angle. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerks.

As you can see, having a small set of tools in the arsenal, instructions for making an ax, it is not at all difficult to make it to fit your size and needs.

See video instruction for making a taiga ax with your own hands: