Do-it-yourself foundation for a 3x4 frame bath. Do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions. The arrangement of the room depends on

The frame structure is simpler and more intuitive than a log house. It does not require high professional skills and any special skills. The foundations under the bathhouse and the veranda were not rigidly connected. They are made end to end.

The construction of the frame begins in the same way as the log house (I wrote about the construction of the log house in), that is, with the installation of a lining plinth beam with a section of 150x50mm.

A strapping beam (100x100 mm) is installed on it, which carries the main load.

Laying the basement timber is the most critical stage of construction. The quality of the entire frame depends on how it will be made. In the corners, the plinth timber is joined in a half-tree way. Diagonals are checked with a tape measure. The difference in size should not exceed 1-2 cm. Horizontals are leveled.

Two load-bearing rack beams 100x100 mm were nailed along the edges to the bath 150 mm with a nail. I set the second pair of racks at opposite corners, checked with a level for deviation from the vertical and fastened it with a corner with a plinth beam on screws 50 mm long.

An important note: assembling the frame means hundreds of screws that will have to be screwed during the entire construction! So, it is necessary to have a cordless screwdriver on the farm, with a set of spare bits.

So, the base of the frame is ready. To strengthen it and increase rigidity, the upper and lower trim at regular intervals was additionally tied with jumpers (100x50mm). On this it was possible to finish the installation of the walls, but I decided that the strength "does not happen much." Therefore, I made braces at the corners of the racks.

Brace (brace) - a diagonal structural element designed to connect and transfer stresses that form in various ceilings and trusses.

I decided to make the window deaf. I ordered a large double-glazed window and made a reinforced hard opening for it. Under the lower plane of the double-glazed window for tightness laid a rubber band. Aligned the glass pane vertically. Its edges and top were filled with construction foam. After it dried, I cut off the excess with a knife. Along the edges of the window I put a decorative edging from a bar.

To prevent water from accumulating under the floor in the spring, he poured a dozen carts of sand there.

Sand poured on the ground does not perform the function of drainage. Therefore, this solution does not eliminate the need for a drainage ditch along the foundation. - approx. editions

On top of the sand, I laid out pieces of old roofing material for better waterproofing of the underground space and repelling rodents.

Further work went quickly. As soon as the window was inserted, we immediately take up the doorway. Climbed up to the attic for the board. Well, once climbed, then it is necessary to put the sex logs. It's not long! After all, the sand was covered, the roofing material was laid out. You won't walk on it!

We dropped everything, put the lags. On the veranda, they decided to lay only a rough floor with basalt wool insulation. I broke my whole head while I figured out how to lay the basalt. It turned out that everything ingenious is simple: I screwed a 150 mm board with screws to the lower plane of the genital lag (beam 200x50 mm). On the resulting ledges, he laid the trimmings of the boards, and spread basalt wool over them. Everything, you can lay the floorboard!

Unsheathed walls created the illusion of a large space. We started planning… We’ll set up a table here, there will be a wardrobe, we’ll make a shower here. There will be a mirror and a drawer for linen. They exhausted a lot of paper, drawing the interiors of an essentially scanty space of 2x3 meters. As a result, a table was placed at the far end wall, and a mirror and a drawer for linen were placed on the opposite wall. Here I screwed hooks for outerwear. A rope was stretched in the center of the bath for towels and clothes to dry.

In May, the weather is changeable and capricious. In the morning the sun and a clear sky, in the evening it will overtake the clouds and charge the rain, and we don’t even have rafters! Installation of rafters is a crucial stage of construction. I attached the upper end of the rafters of the veranda to the rafters of the bath, so that I got a common roof.

Screw fixing was originally planned. However, having estimated the load-bearing loads by eye, he refused to use a bunch of rafters with screws! He began to "reinvent the wheel", as everyone on the forum fastened the rafters with screws and even nails!

He said to himself: “You are always wiser! Pulled on the screws, where will they go? Then he thought: “Of course, in the more southern regions it is not critical, but we sometimes get up to half a meter of snow at a time. And how much will he pile up for the whole winter? The rafters collapse. Well, if not on the head.

In the end, I did it my way. The rafters were installed, temporarily grabbing with screws. Further, at the junction of the rafters, a hole is drilled for the M-10 threaded stud. Washers, grovers are put on the sides, nuts are screwed on and everything is twisted until it stops wrench. At the bottom edge rafter leg, which rests on the frame strapping, a corner cut was made for rigidity. Additionally, all rafters are fastened with a frame strapping with a metal corner for 50 mm screws. The entire truss system must be set in one plane. Simply put, the board laid on the rafters should lie on them evenly and without gaps.

So, the rafters are already standing. Now you need to sheathe them with an edged board and spread two layers of roofing material. Here is the finished roof. I will say in passing that roofing felt and a roof are not compatible concepts. Ruberoid is a temporary roof for two to three years until a permanent roof of slate, ceramic or metal tiles is installed.

I have learned this from my own bitter experience. In the second year, a strong wind tore off the top layer of roofing material. Involuntarily, I had to put a real roof. Doing this work yourself is dangerous (after all, four and a half meters high) and difficult, given the exit of the chimney and the passage of the electric cable. Therefore, I ordered a roof from a company. With a new roof, the bathhouse acquired the appearance of a solid building.

It's time to sheathe the outside of the bath. To be honest, I didn't plan to do this. Additional cost of time and money. However, given the small thickness of the walls of the log house and the operation of the bath in winter period, decided: let it be with sheathing!

Windproofing is attached to the frame under the outer skin. The construction market has a huge selection of all kinds of films, membranes. Despite this, I, as always, climbed into the forum. They approached the problem differently. Down with expensive delights, we will do it simply and cheaply. We put glassine (aka only) on the whole bath. 4 rolls bought for ridiculous money. Fastened it to the wall with a construction stapler. On top of the parchment, I vertically stuffed a 50 mm rail. It must be placed vertically so that there is air movement under the skin and dampness does not accumulate.

Fixing the cladding is a pleasure. The first board is leveled and nailed to the rails. Then just keep pushing. The lining is smooth, smooth, it is pleasant to take it in your hands! For two days, "from dawn to dusk," he pounded the skin. I was in a hurry not in vain, they were about to bring the front metal door.

Sometimes it happens that wood paneling"leads" the frame. Therefore, if the door is installed before the skin, then it can warp. Fortunately, everything worked out for me as well as possible. Before the installation of the lining, two masters arrived, quickly installed the door in the opening, issued a guarantee for it and for the locks.

Having installed the lining outside, you can proceed to the insulation and interior decoration of the veranda. The simplest, inexpensive, high-quality and durable insulation is sheet foam plastic, the “official” name is polystyrene foam. It is easily cut with a knife and inserted into the spacer, the slots are foamed with mounting foam.

Building is not a fast business. Every day I stay until dark. We need to find an electrician and do electrification! Our country electrician promised to do it, but never came. I met a friend, let's call him Vova. Complains about life. “They don’t pay money at the factory, there are no covens, the prices are brutal, how to live?” I told him - "So you're an electrician, sort of?" He proudly says, “Yes! All permits are available for any work!

I suggest that he make an air cable connection to the bath. This is where the fun starts! "Yeah, I can't now." Okay, let's go tomorrow or Monday. “And since Monday I can’t, and in general I have things to do!”

Well, then why are you crying that there is no money? Here they are - real money. Works for three or four hours! Offended by me, he left without saying goodbye. Truly, whoever wants - is looking for ways, who does not want, he is looking for reasons! We still put the “Ilyich’s lamp” on. Familiar from work without showing off, did everything qualitatively and for a reasonable price and connected it!

The bath door is not an easy thing! As you make it, such a bath will be. You can't cheat here. I figured it this way and that. An astronomical amount was obtained on order (5 times more expensive than the input metal). To do it yourself, you have to be a highly skilled carpenter.

And yet he made the door himself. Lightweight, insulated with foam, lined with aspen clapboard. I did it for the first time, as they say, "on my knee." Nevertheless, it turned out well and beautifully. He screwed an imposing wooden handle to the door.

Now the sauna window can be inserted and there will be very little left: the floor and the stove! With a frame for the window, I didn’t do much. When I did the renovation, there were 2 left in the apartment window frames. Remember, in the old Khrushchevs there were such in the bathroom and toilet? I put them together and nailed them together. I inserted 5 mm mirror glass between the frames, drilled 2 holes of 20 mm and inserted 2 metal bars from dashing people!

Next up is the floor. It must be warm and airtight. The rough floor was screwed onto 50 mm screws. 50 mm polystyrene was tightly inserted into the gaps between the timber. All cracks and joints are foamed with mounting foam. You can’t walk on the laid foam, so everything is done from the far corner to the exit.

Styrofoam in the steam room - the material is unacceptable! When heated strongly, it releases toxic substances. When it comes into contact with the floorboard, the wood starts to rot. The best option is floor insulation with ecowool, mineral wool or expanded clay gravel. - approx. editions

Excess mounting foam is cut off with a knife so that it lies flat batten. The board took the thickest 40 mm. It's better not to save here! You can save money by taking pine instead of aspen. The board is laid simply: the first one is pressed tightly against the wall with a groove and screwed with screws. The second groove is inserted into the crest of the first board and pressed tightly with a clamp or wooden wedges until there is no gap.

Then the board is screwed to the lags with screws. Between the foundation of the stove and the floor, a gap of 50 mm was obtained. Mounting foam help us! Foamed from the heart. Paul is ready. Immediately checked it for blowing with a candle. I see the flame is even. So, there is no wind anywhere!

Now the most important work - we put the stove! The bath is a wooden structure. The slightest disregard for the rules fire safety leads to fire!

Therefore, the first commandment of a novice attendant: the stove must be bought in a specialized center with a certificate, and not welded in a garage on your knee!

Second commandment. What a cool oven you would not buy, you still need to overlay it with a brick! In my case, the stove was bought not for a bathhouse, but for an ordinary collapsible cast-iron potbelly stove. During the test furnace, it was red-hot, but there was nowhere for me to retreat. Everything was done just for this stove!

Back in the 90s, he upgraded it for a bottle of Royale alcohol. The men welded a 40-liter water tank and a container for stones from 6 mm steel sheet. Then it was the height of perfection!

Collecting a stove is a pleasure. Anyway, this is the last stage of construction! Once again I checked the passage of the chimney between the ceiling beams and the roof rafters. Everything is done correctly, the only drawback: the pipe goes to the roof next to the rafters. Therefore, I insulated the rafters with a basalt sheet, and wrapped the pipe itself with an asbestos sheet. Asbestos is a terrible carcinogen, so a basalt sheet is wrapped over it. Work with asbestos only in a respirator!

We start installation chimneys. The first pipe is the most responsible. It bears the weight of all the pipes and gets very hot along the entire length! So I didn't skimp on it. Bought from stainless steel. Wall thickness 1 mm (there are steel and thin 0.5 mm).

The pipe is put on the furnace pipe and fastened with a clamp. Another important note: all pipe joints must be coated with a heat-resistant sealant!

Next, a gate or simply a valve is put on the pipe. You can not put it, it's an amateur! Next is the most important: the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling. A hole is cut in the ceiling for the PPU (ceiling pass-through device). All places of PPU contact with wood are thermally insulated with asbestos.

We insert a sandwich pipe into the PPU and fasten it with the help of an adapter to the first pipe. PPU stands, the sandwich is taken to the attic. Now you need to make a complex cut in the roof. I figured it this way and that. An accurate hole is not obtained in an inclined surface. I drew it on paper. Only from the fourth option it turned out!

I drew a hole on the roof according to the template. With a thin drill, using a drill, I drilled its contours and cut it from the roof with a jigsaw. He brought the last sandwich pipe to the roof. To prevent water from flowing through the pipe into the bath, I put a “master flush” on it (a heat-resistant rubber sleeve). A flame arrester or simply an umbrella is attached to the top of the pipe. All! We can say that the bath is done.

I spent two more days laying a brick wall near the stove, building shelves and benches in the steam room. While I was doing imperfections, my girls made beauty in the bathhouse! They got an old samovar from the attic, forced me to make something like a village hill for dishes out of the remnants of the board!

Woven bast shoes were hung in the corner, carved boards and wooden spoons were hung on the walls!

And the long-awaited day has come! I heated the stove in the morning to +50, it's time to take a steam bath! It was only later that we found a comfortable temperature of +70 - +76 degrees. Above it already burns the lungs, it is impossible to bathe with a broom, it burns.

High temperature is needed in the sauna. The air is dry there. The Russian bath should be humid. Dry air is allowed here at the first stage to warm up the body. Then a large bucket of water is poured onto the stones. In my case, 1 liter of water is used for 100 kg of stones. We close the steam room for 10 minutes. Bath "ripens". Ten minutes later we go to bathe. We give water to the heater in small portions of 100-150 ml.

There was a big problem with the water tank. She boiled in it only an hour later, filling the whole bath with steam. I tried to put asbestos under the tank. Little use, still boils! I had to fill the tank with stones instead of water. More than 10 kg climbed (the stone keeps heat for a long time and dries the bath well). I bought stones for the bath at the construction market. This breed is called gabbro-diabase. Chose them for a nice color: black with blue tint.

There are lovers of bathing for 5-6 hours, making six or seven visits to the steam room. I personally need three or four passes. In winter I wipe myself with snow, in summer I pour water from a well, also cold, only +5. Pouring is very useful for blood vessels. Contrasting temperatures inhibit the development of viruses, fungi and pathogenic microflora. No wonder they said in the old days: a bath heals, a bath rules, a bath will fix everything!

A short note about the cost of the bath

My initial cost calculations: 5 cubes of timber at 6000 rubles. per cube, 4 bags of cement at a price of 500 rubles per bag. Total: 32,000 rubles.

Naive dreams! I won’t tell you the exact cost, because I left the calculations in complete frustration when we bought the lining. And yet, the total amount can be estimated.

So, lining, floorboard, inch edged board, platbands, decorative board, timber. Total: 100,000 rubles.

Ruberoid, glassine, 2 bags of cement, foil, nails, screws, plus electricity. Total: 25-30,000 rubles.

Chimneys, brick, polyurethane foam, acrylic paint. Total 30,000 rubles. Installation on the roof of a metal tile another 2,000 rubles. Total: 32,000 rubles.

GRAND TOTAL: 32+100+30+32 = 194,000 rubles Surely I did not take into account everything, so you can safely throw another 30-40 thousand rubles on top.

Consider also the fact that almost everything was done by hand. Mercenaries take from 50 to 100% of the cost of materials for work!

For reference: the size of my bath in terms of 2x3 meters. Fully assembled with winter veranda 4x3 meters.

Frame technologies today break records in popularity. According to this technique, not only houses are now being built, but also utility rooms, production facilities and much more. Projects of frame baths of various sizes and layouts, which can be made by hand on the territory of a suburban area, are in great demand.

Where to begin

Before starting construction frame bath with your own hands, you need to carefully plan the location and type of future construction. What you should pay attention to:

• it is important to decide whether the frame bath will be an extension to the house or outbuilding or will become a separate object;
• choose a place for construction, taking into account the location engineering networks and outline the ways of passing communications;
• deal with the features of the soil to determine the type of foundation for the bath;
• develop or buy a finished project, taking into account individual requirements(the presence of an attic, porch, attic).

Advice! The more detailed the project is developed, the easier it will be to implement it yourself.

A finished project of a frame bath can be bought in many construction organizations, and you can also order an individual development from them. The minimum size of the bath area is 3x4 meters. The optimal area is 5x5 meters.

DIY project

In order not to puzzle in vain over creating drawings from scratch, you can take any finished project as a basis, with a layout corresponding to the required building site and simply make adjustments to it. For example, the layout of a frame bath measuring 5 by 5 meters, as in the photo:

What will be important for the future individual project:

• reasonable internal layout of the bath;
• reducing the cost of construction and maintenance of the facility;
• short terms of work;
• the most lightweight, but reliable foundation.

The interior of the frame bath should be designed to accommodate the necessary pieces of furniture. For example, when planning a steam room in a bath, it is important to determine in advance the size of the stove and benches. In the rest room, you need to provide space sufficient to install a table and chairs or sofas. It is necessary to consider the presence of a dressing room, which will prevent cold air from entering the winter time. In the washroom, it is important to determine in advance the dimensions of the shower and the presence of a pool or barrel.

For a frame bath in the country, it would be ideal to have a veranda or terrace measuring 3x4 meters, where you can relax after a steam room in the summer. For some, it is important to have a warm attic, where it is convenient to store and dry brooms.

This is how a variety of drawings for a frame-type bath with the same area are born. Examples of drawings in the following photos:

A little about the advantages of frame structures

The structure of the frame-type bath consists of load-bearing structure from a bar or metal sheathed with OSB sheets. Insulation and vapor barrier materials are laid between the inner and outer skin layers.

Advice! If desired, it is possible to reduce the cost of construction as much as possible, using sawdust, straw and other available materials as a heater.

Frame bath of such building materials weighs very little, and therefore does not require a solid foundation. It is easy to make it yourself using pile or grillage technology.

Thus, the advantages are clear. frame construction:

• minimum costs for the arrangement of the foundation;
• all work can be done by hand, without the use of heavy special equipment;
• short construction time.

This technology also has its drawbacks, which cannot be ignored. The main disadvantage is the increased fire hazard of structures. That is why experts strongly recommend carefully treating all parts with refractory compounds and using special non-combustible casings for electrical wiring.

Important! In a frame bath, special attention should be paid to the moisture insulation of the walls, because mineral wool insulation is very sensitive to steam and loses its properties at the slightest penetration of water.

Vapor barrier must be done very carefully, without saving on materials.

Baths made in the factory

Take over the construction frame structure Not everyone will decide on their own. You can get out of the situation by choosing a ready-made kit. The composition of the finished bath includes:

• mounting bar;
• set of fasteners;
• floor material;
• external and internal wall panels;
• roof;
• set of technical documents.

The package of documents should contain project drawings and detailed instructions by assembly.

Drawing bath size 3x4 meters with a veranda:

For your information! Walls in prefabricated frame structures consist of SIP panels, they are very easy to assemble.

The finished bath set is manufactured at the factory in accordance with building codes and regulations. The documentation should indicate that the panels and frame have undergone special flame retardant treatment.

Bath materials

If you plan to build a frame bath with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

1. Materials for the frame of the bath: a beam with a section of 10 by 15 centimeters or 15 by 15. For transverse supports and slopes, you will need an 8 by 8 beam.
2. For roofing: timber 15 by 15, roofing material(ondulin, soft roof, metal profile). It is not recommended to use ceramic tiles, it is too heavy for frame walls.
3. Materials for lathing the walls and roof of the bath: slats or a board 2 centimeters thick.
4. For frame structure walls: OSB panels. They will also be needed to cover the roof with soft tiles.
5. Bath floor materials - edged board treated with flame retardant and antifungal agents.
6. Materials for interior and exterior cladding: lining (usually used for cladding indoors), and imitation timber for the exterior of the building.
7. To insulate the structure of the bath: non-combustible mineral wool. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the region. The use of basalt wool with a layer thickness of fifteen to twenty-five centimeters is considered optimal.

In addition to the above, you will need screws and nails different sizes. Considering the increased humidity of the bath rooms, it is better to use galvanized fasteners.

Construction algorithm

For a frame bath, it is easiest to install a columnar foundation with your own hands. It will require pipes made of asbestos cement with a diameter of 20 centimeters and a length of two meters. They are buried in one and a half meter wells and poured with a concrete-crushed stone mixture. The number of pillars depends on the size of the bath, for a small 3x4 room, 12 pieces are enough, for a 5x5 bath - about 18.

After installing the support pillars, a strapping of timber is fixed on them. Details are fastened together with nails. Roofing material waterproofing must be installed under the strapping. As photo:

Important! In order for the strapping material to firmly “sit” on the foundation, it is attached to the poles using metal corners and plates.

Boards are attached to the strapping - logs for the future floor of the bath.

The base frame must be carefully treated with rot and insect repellants, fire-fighting impregnation.

Installation of the walls of the bath is carried out in the following sequence:

• corner posts are fixed at the corners and between them - intermediate;
• sheathing sheets are attached to the racks using self-tapping screws, starting from the corner;
• during installation, window and door openings are made

Important! The correct position of each sheet must be checked using the building level.

The rafter structure of the roof of the frame bath is assembled on the ground and then rises to the top. Then the sheathing is fastened and the roofing material is laid.

After the main frame is installed, the installation of windows and doors is carried out.

Thus, for the construction of a frame bath with your own hands, on average, you will need:

• 3 days to install the foundation;
• 3 days for the installation of piping and walls;
• 2 days for roof structure;
• 2 days for the installation of the roof, door and window structures, finishing.

Internal finishing of a frame bath

For exterior finish frame baths use imitation logs or ordinary siding.

Interior decoration requires a special approach. First of all, you need to choose the right lining. Pine lining is suitable for a rest room and dressing room. She is not demanding to care for and looks quite attractive, as in this photo:

It is better to finish the room in the steam room and shower room with linden or larch. These rocks withstand high temperatures and retain their color and shape. In addition to these rocks, for a bath you can use:

• cedar - releases essential substances when heated, which have a beneficial effect on the body;
• abachi - a tropical tree, characterized by minimal thermal conductivity;
• aspen - resistant to decay and the formation of mold deposits, releases substances that are beneficial to health when heated.

Important! The lining is mounted on a vapor barrier layer so that it remains small space between wood and foil.

• It is important to especially carefully perform vapor barrier at the joints of the walls and floor of the frame bath - the durability of the entire structure depends on this.
• For additional insulation of the bath from the outside, additional waterproofing and heat-insulating material is fixed under the casing.
• The inner lining of the bath is not covered with varnish or paint, they will release toxins when heated.

The ceilings and floors of the bath must be insulated to the conscience with the same materials that were used on the walls.

Frame-type bath - affordable and practical solution for a suburban area. It is not difficult to build it yourself or buy it ready-made. If you approach the development of the project and construction with soul and imagination, this object will become the envy of the neighbors and a favorite vacation spot for the household.

Building a frame bath with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. And if it is also competently insulated and isolated from moisture, you can end up with a steam room, almost in no way inferior to either brick architectural masterpieces or massive structures made of logs. And our article will tell you in detail about how to build a frame bath with your own hands: video, photo and step by step guides- Everything is for you!

Note that frame baths are built with their own hands much easier than brick or timber ones - no drawings, no serious foundation, no expensive materials are needed. Everything is so simple that even a schoolboy can cope with the work. The main thing is to know how and what to do.

In terms of construction, a frame bath has a valuable advantage that, due to its lightness, it does not shrink, which cannot be avoided by chopped steam baths. But the minus is in the humidity during snow and rain, which is able to penetrate into all the cracks and accumulates inside the frame. This is the problem that needs to be addressed first.

• 5 Stage V. We build a truss system
• 6 Stage VI. We decorate the walls with modern materials
  • 6.1 Clapboard
  • 6.2 Thermal panels
  • 6.3 Facing brick
  • 6.4 Vinyl siding
  • 6.5 Blockhouse
• 7 Stage VII. Warming and vapor barrier

Stage I. We design

So, by frame technology you can build both a small steam room for a steam room and a dressing room, and a two-story country house-bath. It all depends on your imagination and financial capabilities!

For a small frame bath, you will need to make a simple strip or column foundation, purchase a dry beam with a section of at least 20x20 for racks and an edged board:

For a frame bath, where there will be at least three rooms, an unpretentious foundation made of timber is no longer enough:

Optional to save Construction Materials, you can make a dressing room separately, like an attached veranda, then there will be enough space inside for a steam room and a washing room:

But abroad, the frame construction of entire two-storey houses. Naturally, a reliable foundation is also needed here (more on this below), and the material is good:

Or make your bath more spacious in area, instead of the second floor:

Why is this option better? The fact is that frame baths are the most fireproof. And the worst option is if you and your friends are in the billiard room on the second floor during a fire. The fire rises quickly, and you simply have to jump into the snow - this time not for reasons of health and extremism after heated procedures. But if it's summer...

Stage II. We build the foundation

The construction of the simplest frame bath with your own hands usually does not require the preliminary manufacture of a foundation due to its lightness. But, if you do not want the walls to become damp, then you still have to make the base.

Wooden beam: for a mini-bath

If your bath will be 3x4 at most, and the walls with the roof are planned to be light, then you can put a simple wooden foundation, securing it with stakes on the sides:

Such a foundation is especially good for capricious clay soils that do not suffer from excess moisture, but are seasonally mobile.

Columnar: for high groundwater

But for construction on uneven and heterogeneous soil, where groundwater is located quite close, a columnar foundation is more suitable:

To build such a foundation, you will not need any equipment or an additional construction team. It is enough to arm yourself with a drill, asbestos or plastic pipes, and be able to knead the cement. Then we move on to these steps:

• Step 1. Align the area.
• Step 2. We mark the location of future pillars.
• Step 3. We drill holes and make waterproofing at the bottom of each of them.
• Step 4. Gradually pour concrete and carefully raise the pipe.
• Step 5. At the level of 20-30 cm, we fix the pipe, waiting for the concrete to harden, and reinforce it.
• Step 6. As soon as the base hardens, we fill the pipe with concrete to the end.
• Step 7. We form a grillage - using an ordinary strong beam.

Economical and simple, which is what you need for a frame bath. And here is what further construction on such a foundation looks like:

Block foundation: under a light bath

For a bath of medium architecture, where a heavy stove will stand and far from one person will walk, a strong foundation of blocks is well suited:

But it is allowed to build such a foundation only on the ground where the freezing depth does not exceed one meter.

Pile-screw: for complex soils

You cannot do without this type of foundation if you are building a solid frame bath (or even a bath-house), and the depth of soil freezing is low. Then you will have to get to a more solid foundation with modern piles. This is a fairly simple technology, and you can usually get by with a labor force of four people:

• Step 1. We mark the places of future piles.
• Step 2. We drill holes of the required length, which we calculate based on the obtained soil data.
• Step 3 We put the piles and gradually screw them into the ground.
• Step 4. We collect and fix the strapping.

Belt: for reliable soils

If the soil on the site is heaving, then it is better to opt for a simple strip base. In order to build such a foundation, you need to do the following:

• Step 1. Planning is being carried out at the chosen place, and a trench is already being dug along it - about 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep.
• Step 2. The trench must be filled with sand to ground level and compacted in layers, constantly pouring water for better shrinkage.
• Step 3. We put the formwork - 50 cm high and 30 cm wide.
• Step 4. The base in the formwork needs to be reinforced metal pipes and bars - for strength.
• Step 5. Now you can pour concrete - either in one go, or in layers, but without allowing the previous layer to dry.
• Step 6. On top of everything you need to put roofing material - for waterproofing frame walls.

See a photo of how it's done:

And here is how the construction of a small frame bath on such a foundation looks like:

You will have to think about the prefabricated strip foundation if you are going to build a fairly large frame bath:

The essence of such a foundation is to create the most reliable support on any type of soil, except for floating ones.

Stage III. Installing and insulating floors

In short, to make the floors in the frame bath, to the bottom of their lag in the rest room, and in the steam room, and in the dressing room, you need to nail bars with a section of 5x5 cm, and on top of them - lay subfloor boards, then - roofing material, and finally - mineral wool 10 cm thick or expanded polystyrene. And already under the clean floor boards, glassine should be laid for vapor barrier:

In the washing floor, you need to do it differently:

• Step 1. So, in order for it to be always warm in cold times and dry quickly, a separate foundation must be made around its entire perimeter.
• Step 2. Next, remove the soil layer by half a meter, and pour gravel and sand into the resulting pit for 10 cm of the layer. If water gets into such drainage well, then it will go into the ground, and there will be no need to make a pit.
• Step 3 As a log for such a floor, it is best to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 10 cm, which are placed directly on the foundation and poured with concrete to keep them from moving.
• Step 4. Then, in the washing room, a rounded edged board 4-5 cm thick is laid on the pipes, but with a gap of 6-7 millimeters with rubber gaskets that are nailed.
• Step 5. After all this, the floor can be pressed with skirting boards.

More details on the video:

Stage IV. We raise the walls

So, the foundation is ready, and we can safely proceed to the construction of the walls of the frame bath. As you have already noticed for yourself from our schemes, there is nothing complicated here.

So, even before you start building walls, it is important to carefully make sure that the prepared wood is well dried. And it can be almost any breed (except from birch, which quickly rots) - linden, larch or aspen, whose thermal conductivity is low, and the structure retains its shape for a long time. Moreover, it is pine and larch that are best suited for external cladding, and any other type of wood for internal cladding, the most healing of which is aspen.

Outside, all the boards will need to be coated with the Texturol antiseptic at the end of construction, and it is advisable to sand the lining inside and cover it in two layers with furniture varnish. In addition to washing and steam rooms, special impregnation would be appropriate there.

We build walls right on the foundation

So, it is most reliable to make the lower harness from a strong beam, for example, with a section of 10x10 cm, connecting it in the corners to a quarter and fastening it well with nails. In order for the lower trim and the installed corner posts not to move, they must be placed on 2 cm steel pins, which are embedded in concrete. Exactly the same timber can be used for the upper strapping. And in order for the frame of the bath to turn out to be sufficiently rigid, it is advisable to put 8 braces in the corners.

On the walls, now you need to install intermediate racks of beams with the same section - 10x10 cm. And you can put logs for the floor, which are well suited for paired boards with section parameters of 15x5 cm, which can be placed directly on the foundation waterproofing.

We raise the finished walls

Sometimes it is more convenient to build and fasten the frame walls on the ground, and then simply raise them:

What exactly is more convenient? At least the fact that there is no need to work with your hands above your head, and they do not get so numb. Plus, walls and foundations can be built at the same time if several people work for you.

And it’s certainly more convenient to raise ready-made frame walls if you are building a two-story bath:

Stage V. We build a truss system

It is best to build floor beams and rafters of a frame bath from boards with a section of 15x5 cm, placing them on edge and fastening them together. As a result, the distance between the rafters should be 10x12 cm. In a vertical position, they must be fixed with “kerchiefs”, and from above - connected to each other with the same section with a ridge beam. The beams must be let out at a distance of 40 cm. And for this, the crate itself can be made from a board 25 cm thick, laying it directly from the ridge.

And to fasten roof trusses even on the ground today, special metal plates are used:

Agree, it’s easier to assemble the truss structure right on the ground, then lifting it up and already installing it ready. Especially when it comes to the frame bath.

And, finally, soft tiles are most suitable as roofing if the bath is light and on a conditional foundation, and metal tiles, if we are talking about a more serious building.

If you do not have an attic, then be sure to insulate the roof from the outside:

Stage VI. We decorate the walls with modern materials

And now - to the most interesting part of the construction of a frame bath. We're not leaving her in the RSD, are we? Of course, it's time to pick up a "fur coat" for her.

But painting with paint and plaster are not the only options for exterior finishes that a frame bath can have: reviews experienced summer residents they say that it doesn’t matter, its design is so simple - from the outside it is quite possible to give it an expensive and chic look. And the modern construction market offers a sea of ​​​​finishes for such buildings, the most successful of them for the bath will be the following.

clapboard

Decorative and imitation lining is the simplest and most affordable way to upholster frame baths on the outside: such structures turn out to be very solid, and it’s not a shame to show them to acquaintances and friends, inviting them to a bath broom and barbecue in nature.

It is necessary to place the lining on the outer wall horizontally, and having previously placed glassine waterproofing under the upholstery. At the same time, fasten the whole sheets with an overlap, gluing all the edges with adhesive tape - it is important to do this operation carefully so that unnecessary moisture does not occur in the bath.

Thermal panels

The traditional construction of a frame bath still provides for mandatory wall insulation, so why not do this with the help of thermal panels? At their core, they are a three-layer structure with insulation - mineral wool or foam, enclosed between two PVC layers. Their outer surface is usually made in the form of masonry and sprinkled with compressed stone chips.

At the same time, the panels themselves have mutual grooves, and therefore form a monolithic pattern of stone or brick wall. And you can make such a finish in the bath with the most common self-tapping screws that will fix the panels to the profiles on the facades.

Facing brick

Brick, even masonry fits perfectly into any landscape of a summer cottage. And it always looks very beautiful in the bath, and to overlay the frame structure with bricks and lay it clean out of it - completely different things, both in terms of labor costs and price. And between the facing brickwork and wooden frame walls, you can lay additional insulation, slightly changing the traditional "pie", but without losing anything.

Vinyl siding

Siding is the lightest and most popular material for sheathing frame baths. It's not expensive and it's surprisingly easy to install. And the variety of colors, textures and thickness cannot but rejoice.

Block house

For those owners who have dreamed of a beautiful log bath, but built only a frame on the site so far, there is good news - with the help of latest material to finish the block house, now it will be impossible to distinguish the steam room from the outside from a real log house:

Stage VII. Warming and vapor barrier

Getting Started internal work. The typical arrangement of a frame bath is such that the worst thing for it is the accumulation of moisture at a time when the air temperature is high inside the structure, and it is winter outside. That's why you can't do without a vapor barrier. The easiest option is a plastic film under the inner lining.

Especially carefully you need to approach the process of sheathing the steam room. High-quality vapor barrier is also needed here - aluminum foil, glassine, vapor barrier film, etc. But it is worth remembering that roofing felt and roofing material in this room will emit a specific smell when heated.

So, on the advice of experienced builders, it is best to insulate the walls of a frame bath with a rolled “Ursoy”, the thickness of which is 50 mm. It should be laid between vertical posts, nailing slats to them along the way. In some places, the insulation can also be nailed to the outer boards, but only with special nails with a rubber washer under the head.

If everything is done in this way, then it will turn out like this layered cake bath walls:

• lining external;
• glassine;
• insulation;
• polyethylene film;
• lining internal.

The main thing is that an air gap of 5 cm thick remains inside the walls - this is important.

But special attention must be paid to the steam room - the so-called "thermos effect" is important here. Therefore, lay the heat insulator foil is better inside the room, and in the ceiling you need to use not only the Ursa foil, but also another 5 cm of ordinary insulation.

And the walls and ceiling of the steam room are best finished with healing aspen lining; poplar or tongue-and-groove lime boards are also suitable.

And, finally, the construction technology of a frame bath must necessarily provide for high-quality ventilation. For small bath an asbestos cement exhaust pipe with a diameter of 12 cm is quite suitable - so that the steam room does not smell like mold. It is enough to bring the pipe itself to the attic, and during bathing procedures and a hot firebox, hot air through the gap in under the door will enter the sink, and exhaust ventilation climb through the cracks in the floor and thus the feet in this room will always be warm.

The main thing is to show imagination and remember that budget bath according to frame technology does not mean ugly or uncomfortable. In the hands of the masters, as they say, everything is arguable!

Frame bath pros and cons, reviews of users and specialists

Frame construction is always chosen if for some reason it is not possible to put a structure from solid material. Timber and logs are well suited for the construction of a Russian bath, but over time, you need to do the finishing. And if you build a frame-type bath, then it will look no worse, and the cost savings will be 2-2.5 times. What is a frame bath, the pros and cons of the structure can be found by reading the article to the end.

The frame of the bath without finishing and insulation made of timber 100x100 mm.

Positive and negative in frame baths

The frame bath finished with artificial stone looks very presentable.

Frame construction comes to the aid of buyers who want to have a bathhouse or a house on their site, but cannot afford an expensive building. There is a lot of talk about such baths on the forums. A large number of positive reviews say that construction has inherent advantages, but there are also disadvantages. Why some of the buildings are criticized, we will find out below.

Advantages of frame construction of a bath

1. All positive reviews about baths with a frame are mainly related to their advantages:
2. The bath turns out to be light, so the lightest foundation is mounted under it.
3. With proper assembly, it keeps heat no worse than timber or log.
4. Construction is carried out in the shortest possible time, along with insulation and finishing.
5. The bath will cost from 5,000 rubles / m².
6. The assembly of a frame bath is 2–3 times faster than a similar one made of timber or brick.

The frame bath is assembled from timber and boards with insulation. The heaviest in the structure is a bar with a section of 100x100 or 150x150 mm. As a result, the load on the foundation is 5–6 times lower, which means that there is no need to make it massive.

Cons of frame construction of baths

The frame bath is assembled, but without finishing it does not look aesthetically pleasing.

The negative side of frame construction is mainly related to costs. Yes, at first glance, such a structure comes out cheaper. But if it is good to calculate the costs of insulation + finishing (external and internal), then the difference practically disappears. Certainly, log baths over time, they also need to be finished, but they can simply be painted, and this is cheaper than panels or decorative plastering.

The second big disadvantage of frame construction is poor-quality insulation. If you use inexpensive mineral wool, then you should not vouch for the useful side of the bath. You can not use inexpensive foam, as it is highly flammable.

The third important point is the shrinkage of the bath. It is impossible to leave the insulated frame without finishing for more than 1–2 weeks, and shrinkage can last up to 2 years. Moreover, if you use a bar of natural humidity, then the bath can sit down by 10 cm. In this case, the paneling will crack or deform it. This can be avoided by building a bath from chamber-drying material, but then the meaning of saving disappears.

In order to avoid trouble, the frame construction of the bath must be carried out in accordance with all the rules.

Construction of a frame bath

Since frame construction is lightweight, all work can be done by hand. You need to build a frame bath in the following successive steps.

Foundation for a frame bath

Ready-made columnar foundation for a bath with an upper trim.

The lightweight foundation of a frame bath is easiest to assemble from asbestos-cement pipes (with a diameter of 100 mm or more), reinforced with concrete. This is a columnar type of foundation.
The contour of the bath is marked and wells are drilled with a drill to a depth of 1–2 m. The depth depends on the proximity of groundwater and the type of soil.

Pipes are placed in wells and sprinkled with coarse sand. The sand is carefully compacted. The entire structure is poured from above with concrete, which should consist of:

1 part waterproof cement M200;
4 parts of sand;
7.5 parts of crushed stone of fine fraction;
3 parts water.

Pipes are poured alternately and they are allowed to dry completely. At the pouring stage, an iron plate is installed on top of each. The first link is laid on them in the future. Only after that you can do the bottom strapping.

Installation of the bottom trim

The lower strapping from a bar under a frame bath.

For the lower strapping, you can use a beam with a section of 150x150 mm, but in order to save money, you can take boards 50x150 and splice them with self-tapping screws. Before laying, the entire structure must be treated with an antiseptic and waterproofed. For waterproofing, roofing material is laid on the pillars in 2 layers.

After that, lags for future floors are fixed on the strapping. Between the lags and the strapping, roofing material should also be laid or smeared with mastic.

You can attach the harness to the pipes using special screws or brackets.

Installation of the frame walls of the bath

Frame walls baths without truss system - assembly.

All material, including the edged board, is dried and treated with antiseptics before laying. Instead of timber, you can take all the same spliced ​​boards as a basis.
They are selected according to the specified dimensions for racks and rafters.

Assembly is carried out in the following steps:

1. Racks are installed in the corners, they are fastened together with an upper harness.
2. Intermediate ones are mounted between the racks, they will strengthen the structure.
3. The resulting structure is sheathed with boards or chipboard, using self-tapping screws.
4. Install the remaining racks and are also sheathed with boards or OSB.

So, gradually adding the links of the racks, they assemble the whole bath. At the same time, openings for windows and doors must be taken into account; in frame construction, they should be done immediately.

Roof installation

truss system roofs of a frame bath from a bar and boards.

The rafter system for a frame bath is mounted in parts. Each is assembled at the construction site, gradually lifting and mounting on the roof. Each truss is attached to its frame rack. When installing the last truss, an OSB is attached to it to obtain a pediment.

It is more convenient to assemble the roof by first laying a rough flooring from boards on the frame.

It is better to make the roof structure ventilated, for this, a vapor barrier is placed in the gap between the rafters and the counter beam, and the crate is mounted on the beam.

For the roof of a frame bath, it is better to use light material: ondulin, corrugated board, soft tiles. After that, gables are installed using OSB or boards.

Warming and finishing

The scheme of warming the frame bath - the main layers.

The frame bath must be insulated and finished. Initially, OSB sheets or a board are sewn onto the inside of the ceiling, this will be a draft ceiling. It needs to be insulated in 3 layers with a fire-resistant insulation. The walls are insulated with 2 layers of insulation and glassine. In the steam room, an additional layer of foil insulation is made.
Only after that it is possible to finish with clapboard or imitation of timber.

A stove is mounted, which serves as a fireplace in the dressing room and, in the steam room, as a heating element. To protect the frame tree from fire, a partition with a built-in stove is laid out of brick.

Do not forget about ventilation and holes in the ceiling for the pipe. It is treated on all sides with special fire-resistant compounds and laid with iron plates and asbestos paper.

If the bath is built without an attic, then a hatch is made into the attic and additional lighting is installed.
The ceiling in the firing compartment can be lowered to a level of 210 cm, this will make it possible to perform insulation and sheathe it with linden clapboard. All parts in the steam room are also best made from linden.

Bath building time

Frame construction is considered one of the fastest. But if you compare it with others, it becomes clear that the difference is small. Let's consider, for comparison, some stages in the form of a table:

It turns out that it will be faster to assemble a frame without finishing than other types, but insulation and finishing equalize the work period with the installation of a bath from a bar. The price for this will be lower, but the number of works more.

We have considered all the pros and cons of frame construction. It is up to the owner to decide whether to build a frame bath for permanent use or not. But we recommend using this for cottages or garden plots. It is better to equip residential private houses with baths from more massive structures.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step by step instructions

It's hard to imagine at the moment country cottage area without a bath. Taking a steam bath in a warm bathhouse is a real Russian tradition, rooted in the mists of time. A bathhouse can be built not only in the country, but also in the city: the presence of a plot is a great opportunity to implement this initiative. Moreover, the frame bath is a modern high-tech design that does not require large expenditures.

You can build a frame bath with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialist craftsmen. It is this type of construction that is the fastest and most affordable: a frame bath requires several times less materials than similar in size structures made of timber or logs.

Where to start building a frame bath?

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the bath. It can be an extension to the house, or it can be separate from it. Before proceeding with laying the foundation for a future bath, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site and plan the building itself: the number of floors and rooms, dimensions, interior.

Before the construction of the bath, a plan must be drawn up, where it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure, assess the volume and duration of work. The plan should indicate all elements of the ventilation system, the chimney, roof features and other important aspects. You can also attach a veranda, terrace to the bath.

In order for the bath to be comfortable and able to accommodate several people at the same time, its dimensions must be appropriate. Most best option for the steam room - 240x200x220 centimeters.

At the discretion of builders or customers, a billiard room, a relaxation room or an additional steam room can be equipped in the bathhouse.

The plan of the future bath should be drawn up as accurately as possible and taking into account the smallest details- so the construction process itself will be much easier. The bath project can be ordered from specialists. They will do everything competently and clearly, which will help to avoid major mistakes during construction.

Also, when planning a bath, a table is drawn up of accounting for all the materials necessary for the construction, which is correlated with the plan.

Materials necessary for the construction of a frame bath:

• cement for pouring the foundation;
• sand;
• bars for mounting the frame and ceiling;
• beams;
• insulation material in a roll (mineral wool, ready-made mats, polyethylene, roofing material, glassine);
• waterproofing film for walls and ceilings;
• lining for interior wall cladding;
• roofing material for the roof.

What foundation to choose for the construction of a frame bath?

Since the frame bath itself is very light, a strip foundation will be enough for its construction, which is poured directly under the walls around the entire perimeter of the structure. A common option is a columnar foundation, however, stable soil is required for its installation, otherwise the structure may collapse.

Due to the lightness of the frame bath, the foundation for it is poured according to a fairly simplified scheme.

When the main points are determined, you can proceed to the construction itself.

1. Foundation pouring.

Step one. The perimeter of the future bath is determined in advance, along its edges special pegs are driven into the ground, within which it is necessary to dig a moat 60 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters wide.

Step two. The ditch is filled with sand one third of the depth. From above, the sand is filled with water and carefully compacted.

Step three. After compacting the first layer, finely chopped red brick or gravel is poured over it.

Step four. A layer of broken brick or gravel is covered with a layer of sand, which should be level with the ground.

Step five. The formwork is assembled from the reinforcement. The entire structure is poured with concrete, and on top it is insulated with a thin layer of roofing material.

Important! Before the construction of the frame bath, at least a week must pass so that the foundation has the opportunity to properly settle.

1. Building walls.

Step one. Lumber prepared for a frame bath must be thoroughly dried before starting work. It is not recommended to use birch wood for construction, as it quickly rots. by the most the best option there will be linden, aspen or larch. The wood of these species is able to retain its shape for a long time and has thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a bath.

Step two. After everything construction works are completed, on the inside of the board should be coated with an antiseptic solution, and on the outside - with furniture varnish, and in two layers. This procedure must be done around the entire perimeter of the room, avoiding only the steam room and the washing room.

Step three. The lower harness from a reliable beam with a section of 10x10 centimeters must be firmly fixed enough, after which the bars should be properly fastened at the corners with nails. It is recommended to put racks on metal pins so that during the construction of walls they cannot change their location and knock down the structure.

Step four. Corner posts must be embedded in concrete.

Tip: Pillars - the basis of the walls of the future bath - should be placed directly under bearing walls, corners, stoves - that is, in those places where the load is greatest.

Step five. Along the perimeter of the walls, racks of an intermediate nature are mounted, made of the same timber as the main structure.

Step six. To make the floor waterproof, it should be laid out with a beam of any wood, with a section of 15x15 centimeters.

Step seven. For sheathing the bath from the outside and from the inside, lining is used, which is affordable and easy to use. So that there are no gaps between the lining sheets located in a horizontal position, they should be overlapped. This procedure is very scrupulous in nature, but it can protect the walls from excess moisture.

1. We proceed to the construction of the roof.

Step one. It is necessary to take 8 special ceiling beams cut at an angle of rafters. To begin with, only the extreme rafters should be set, and only after that a couple more pieces should be fixed in the center of the future roof. The rest of the rafters are attached to the main structure, first on one side of the roof, then on the other (through the ridge).

Step two. After the rafters, vertical racks are installed, if necessary, access to the attic is also made.

Step three. On the rafters located from the edges, beams are cut out, to which the frontal boards are nailed, after which the crates are attached from above.

1. Walls need to be insulated.

The most common material for this purpose is a roll insulation with a thickness of about 50 millimeters. In some cases, they use mineral wool or ready-made mats. The insulation is laid between vertical wooden posts, after which the slats are nailed to them. For thermal insulation of the room, it is recommended to use polyethylene or glassine.

Advice: it is not recommended to use roofing material for wall insulation, as under the influence high temperatures he starts to exude bad smell.

For floor insulation, it is better to choose expanded clay or other types of backfill, and for the ceiling - foam. If the insulation is chosen correctly, heat will be lost several times less. Thanks to this, the cost of heating the bath will also be reduced.

After the walls and roof are built, it will be possible to proceed with the installation of windows and doors in the openings left in advance for them. Upon completion of these works, it will be possible to go to the finish line.

The final stage of the construction of the frame bath

In order for the bath to be pleasant to use, it must not only be comfortable and well-designed, but also have beautiful interior decoration. Therefore, after the completion of the main work inside the bath, finishing work should be carried out.

First you need to protect the walls and ceiling from the adverse effects of moisture and high temperatures. For this purpose, coniferous upholstery is perfect. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of the most important part of any bath - the stove. It must be installed in accordance with all safety requirements. The wall separating the steam room and the rest room is recommended to be made of brick - this way it will let in less heat.

To make the walls look more attractive, it is recommended to sheathe them with clapboard. Linden wood is best suited for this purpose.

What are the main pros and cons of a frame bath?

1. Acceptable price. The construction of a frame bath is several times cheaper than analogues.
2. Ease of erection. You can build a frame bath with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.
3. Light weight. The frame bath box is light enough, its weight is acceptable for areas with soft ground.
4. Short construction time. Building a frame bath is not only easy, but also fast: to take a steam bath in it, you don’t even have to wait for the next summer.

1. Difficulty in care. Insulation materials can become unusable under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, and replacing them will be quite problematic.
2. Unsuitable for therapeutic purposes. Due to the fact that the walls of the frame bath do not emit useful substances, bath procedures in it cannot help with health problems. If there are any, it is recommended to build a different type of bath.

Despite the fact that the advantages of the frame structure are much greater than the disadvantages, one should come to the decision to build a bath of one type or another, focusing only on one's own taste and based on one's capabilities - both material and physical. The condition of the soil and the location of the future bath are also important.

There is nothing difficult and impossible in the construction of a frame bath. The instructions given in this article will help everyone build the bath of their dreams in a short time, without spending a lot of material resources.

Frame bath projects

Like a frame house, a bath in the same technique is the most economical both in terms of labor costs and in terms of Money, a way to acquire a house for a healthy holiday on your own territory. For the construction of such buildings, if you use the projects of frame baths, wood materials are required one and a half to two times less than for analogues from logs or beams. Besides modern technologies allow the use of lightweight insulation during the construction process, due to which the weight of the structure does not increase much, and the shrinkage of the building occurs less significantly. If you decide to build a bath with your own hands, then we suggest that you get acquainted with the main stages of this work, as well as with different options projects.

Where to begin

Before you start creating a frame bath project, you need to decide on some important points, which will allow you to plan everything more productively:

1. The steam room can be either built-in or free-standing, so you need to decide how it will be in your bath.
2. Decide on a place to build. This is important to do initial stage construction, since the construction of a bath implies the laying of the necessary communications. Often the owner chooses a place for a bath in accordance with the convenience of holding there. engineering communications from home, so as not to complicate your life with autonomous schemes.
3. Find out the type of soil in the area that you have chosen for the bath. In accordance with this, it will be necessary to choose a suitable foundation.
4. Think over such moments as, for example, the number of storeys, the presence or absence of a veranda (terrace), an attic (mansard)
5. As for the internal filling of the bath, it is important to determine in advance the place for the stove-heater, since the location and structure of the chimneys and ventilation outlets depend on this.
6. Decide on the type of future roof. It can differ not only in appearance, but also in accordance with the structure of the roof. The massiveness of the floors and rafters depends on the choice of the roof.

Experts say that after determining the above basic nuances, you can start working on drawing up an individual project for a frame bath or choosing a project from a photo. As construction progresses, you will adjust your project, but the more accurate it is initially, the less problems will arise in the process.

If this stage seems too complicated for you, you have the opportunity to order a project of frame baths inexpensively from specialists. On the pages of the websites of specialized companies, there are many options for already developed projects of frame baths in the photo. If none of them suits you, the companies will give you the opportunity to order a unique project in accordance with your tastes and preferences.

How to assemble a bath yourself

As the name implies, the basis of the structure we are considering is a wooden frame. It is installed on a mandatory foundation and sewn up inside and out with appropriate materials. Experts recommend making the frame itself from pre-prepared and assembled frames. Each of them includes strapping, racks and crossbars. Depending on how thick they are, the thermal characteristics of the walls of the bath will be higher or lower. To use additional insulation between the skins, you need to think over the thickness of the frame in advance.

The optimal distance between the racks should be about sixty centimeters, but where there will be door and window openings, as well as where the walls meet each other, this distance can be changed down.

The components of the frame can be connected with nails of the appropriate length. After assembly, a check should be made - measure the frame diagonally on both sides. To simplify the subsequent work, fasten the frame with braces for a while.

Mounting the walls should begin with the installation of the basement trim. For it you will need small boards (5 by 10 centimeters). They need to be laid with an edge along the marking contour from the outside and fixed at all corners with nails. If necessary, you can also splice them at the joints. To ensure that the boards lie flat in a horizontal position, use the help of a building level.

The installed frames must be fastened both to each other and to the basement strapping, using the techniques that are used in the assembly of buildings of the shield principle.

After that, the building is clad: outside - with panels, and inside - with clapboard or PVC panels.

To produce wall cladding in a steam room, well-dried planed wood is usually used. wooden planks two to three centimeters from trees hardwood. They do not warp and have low thermal conductivity. The facing boards you have chosen must be nailed to the beams in two places.

Each wall and ceiling of the steam room must be equipped with a vapor barrier. But experts do not advise using bitumen rolled materials for these purposes, because when they warm up the room, they emit a peculiar unpleasant odor. It is better to use materials such as glassine or foil films.

A heater for a bath is superimposed on the vapor barrier material.

The frame of the building from the outside can be upholstered with boards made of coniferous trees. They need to be placed in a horizontal position to provide the building with high rigidity.

You can upholster the inside of the rest room with any boards.

If outside the boards are nailed horizontally, then in the steam room - vertically, close enough to each other.

Thermal insulation is carried out in parallel with the sheathing. Almost any materials can become heaters, the most popular are mineral wool, slabs of wood fiber and arbolite.

It is important even at the construction stage of the bath to protect it from rotting floors. To do this, before you start laying the floors, you need to process the wood floor covering, as well as logs with a special antiseptic solution. The lags should be mounted in such a way that the lowest part of the floor is in the center of the steam room, where the drain will be located.

Ready-made baths from the frame

If you have chosen a suitable frame bath project in the photo and even watched a video on how to build frame baths, but are still not sure of your abilities and abilities to cope with the task on your own, we recommend that you seek help from specialists. The company can provide you with a ready-made kit, which will only need to be assembled, guided by some of the above recommendations.

As part of the finished kit:

• Heat frame or "sip" panels for walls;
• roof panel;
• Floor made of wooden materials;
• Mounting bar;
• Elements for fasteners;
• Documentation.

The package of documents includes the design of the frame bath itself, as well as a photo with assembly instructions. The papers presented in the folder must comply with all safe construction rules.

Canadian technology

Nowadays, most owners of private houses who decide to get a good bath on their site choose those buildings that are being built according to modern Canadian technology. This method of construction has a number of undeniable advantages, including:

• Significant length of service life;
• High maintainability;
• Good thermal insulation;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Attractive appearance;
• Affordable cost (about 10 thousand rubles per 1 sq. meter);
• Speed ​​of construction (about three days);
• Use of energy saving technologies;
• High resistance to external factors;
• Optimal weight, which simplifies the construction process.

The Canadian technology for the construction of frame baths is based on the principle of dividing three functions - enclosing, heat-insulating and bearing - between the corresponding building materials.

The frame as the basis for the steam room is made of high quality wood or stainless steel. In the process of sewing up the frame, refractory mineral wool must be laid inside it. Such a structure can be compared with a thermos, which retains thermal energy in cold weather, and the necessary coolness in hot weather.

Bath project example

We invite you to consider one of the most popular frame bath projects in our country with a photo. Despite the unusual and seemingly rather simple appearance, this bath includes a steam room, a shower, and a room, the exit from which leads to the terrace (see Figure 1).

In accordance with the presented project, the entire room is divided into three or more small rooms, different sizes.

The entrance to the premises goes through a terrace, the length of which is approximately equal to the length of the building itself, and the area is about 10 square meters. meters. The roof is separate for it, but combined with the main one.

To the left of the terrace there is a small window and a door that leads to a lounge (dressing room). The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room is slightly larger than the terrace - about 12 square meters. meters. The length is approximately equal to the width. The rest room is cool but warm. Thanks to her, a trip to the bathhouse can turn from ordinary washing into entertainment with fragrant tea and board games.

The popularity of frame technology is explained by lower construction costs and the high speed of building construction. It is used to build both commercial and residential buildings. Frame baths are especially in demand today. You can easily build them yourself on your own suburban area. A 5x5 frame bath is one of the most popular building options that you can build yourself.

Where to start building a bath

Before starting the construction of a frame bath, it is worth planning the placement of the building. Pay attention to such features:

• It is important to determine where the bath will stand - separately or near the selected building on the site.
• Choose a place for the bath, taking into account the location of engineering networks, as well as mark the ways of laying communications.
• Find out the features of the soil on the site in order to choose a foundation.
• Develop a new or choose an existing sauna project, taking into account your own requirements.

Advice! The more detailed the bath project is, the easier it will be to implement.

Ready-made projects are offered by many organizations. They can order individual project. The minimum size is 3x4 m. The optimal aspect ratio of the bath is 5x5 m.

Bathhouse project

In order not to work in vain on creating drawings, you can choose an already created project as the basis. In this case, the layout of the frame structure must correspond to the building area. Then it will be necessary to make some amendments to it.

For a future project frame building important to consider:

• layout - it is important for the rational distribution of space;
• costs for the construction and operation of a frame bath;
• terms of work;
• features of the foundation device.

All interior spaces arranged in accordance with the number of pieces of furniture and their size. For example, when creating a drawing of a frame structure, the length of the benches is taken into account. To make it comfortable to stay in the rest room after the reception water procedures, it is equipped with a table, a sofa and armchairs.

It is important to correctly determine the location of the dressing room in frame structure. It is designed in such a way that cold air does not enter the bath when the doors are opened. In the washing compartment of the frame structure, the location of the water tank should be provided. Brooms are dried in a warm attic. Comfortable rest is possible when creating a veranda or terrace.

Advantages of frame structures

The construction of a frame bath requires compliance with certain rules. Such a structure consists of a supporting structure, which is sheathed with OSB panels. Insulation and vapor barrier are laid between the wall plates.

Advice! You can save on the construction of a frame structure by choosing straw or sawdust for insulation.

A frame bath made of such materials is lightweight and therefore does not require the creation of an impressive foundation. It is easy to build it yourself.

The obvious advantages of frame construction are:

• low costs for the construction of the foundation;
• all work can be done independently, without using heavy equipment;
• short construction time.

The frame technology also has its drawbacks, which require mentioning. The main disadvantage of such baths is their increased fire hazard. For this reason, it is better to deal with the careful processing of all structural elements with refractory compounds. For wiring in frame construction, non-combustible enclosures should be selected.

Important! Particular attention in the frame bath is paid to the moisture insulation of the walls. Mineral heat insulators perfectly absorb moisture, as a result of which they positive properties are lost.

Ready baths

It is not always possible to start building a bath with your own hands. In the same situation, they buy a finished structure. The kit includes the following items:

• mounting beam - it is used to create a frame;
• fastener kit;
• material for flooring;
• roofing;
• wall panels;
• documentation package.

The set of documents contains project drawings and a description of the assembly instructions.

Attention! The walls in the already manufactured baths are made of SIP panels, which facilitates the assembly process.

materials

Materials are prepared in advance so that there is no need to buy them in addition. For any frame bath you need:

Important! It is better not to use polyurethane foam for insulation. At high temperatures, it starts to melt. In addition, this material is combustible.

You will also need to prepare nails and screws of various lengths. Given the high humidity inside the bath, galvanized fasteners should be used.

Bath construction algorithm

A columnar base is best suited for a frame bath. It can be built using asbestos-cement pipes. You will need elements with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 2 m. They should be deepened into wells by 1.5 m and poured with concrete-crushed stone mortar. The number of pillars varies depending on the size of the structure. For a 3x4 m frame bath, 12 pieces are required. When building a 5x5 m bath, you need to prepare 18 pillars.

After the installation of the bath supports, a strapping of timber is attached to them. Elements are fastened with nails. Roofing material is necessarily laid under the strapping bars - to ensure waterproofing.

Important! For the tightest fit of the strapping to the foundation of the bath, it is attached to the supports on metal corners.

Logs from boards are laid on the strapping - they will be the basis of the bath floor. The frame is treated with an antiseptic and a refractory agent. The installation of the walls of the bath is carried out in the following order:

• Supports are installed at the corners, between which intermediate racks are placed.
• Sheets of sheathing of the walls of the bath are fixed to the racks on self-tapping screws.
• After finishing the sewing of the walls, door and window openings are formed.

Important! During the sheathing of the walls of the bath, OSB sheets should be checked for the correctness of their location. To do this, use the level.

The rafter system for a frame bath is assembled on the ground, and then raised to the roof. Only then the crate is fixed and the roofing is laid. After installing the main frame, doors and windows are mounted. For self-construction of a frame bath you will need:

• three days for the construction of the foundation;
• three days for the installation of piping with walls;
• two days for the rafter system;
• two days for laying the roof, installing windows and doors, as well as finishing.

Knowing these features helps to design and build a durable and practical bath for the whole family.

Bath interior and exterior

For external finishing of frame baths, imitation of timber or siding panels are used. Interior decoration requires special attention. First you need to choose a lining. For the rest room and vestibule, you can choose pine. It does not need to be looked after, and it looks quite impressive.

The steam room is trimmed with linden or larch. These breeds are not afraid of high temperatures and are able to retain color. Sometimes other wood is chosen:

• abachi - a tree from tropical forests with low thermal conductivity;
• cedar - when heated, it begins to release essential compounds that are beneficial to the body;
• aspen - this tree is resistant to decay and mold development.

Important! The lining is attached to the vapor barrier in such a way that there is a gap between the wood and the foil material.

A simple 5x5 frame bath project

When creating your own bath, you should pay attention to existing projects. A capacious building of a 5x5 frame type has several types of premises:

• vestibule - clothes hangers, a refrigerator are placed here;
• a rest room in this room it is worth installing a table and a sofa;
• washing - it should warm up well;
• steam room.

The steam room in the bath should be finished with an aspen clapboard. Installed in this room corner shelf, having dimensions of 90x270x270 cm. An additional narrow shelf is also installed in the steam room. The oven is lined with bricks 120x120 cm. In the steam room, a small window is made, having a width of 30 cm.

It is convenient to place a 90x90 cm shower in the washing compartment. A 90x200 cm sunbed and a hot water tank are also equipped here. The rest room in the bath is made spacious - 190x320 cm. A table with a sofa is installed in this room. The window in the rest room is made large - so that a lot of light enters it.

A 5x5 frame bath is installed on a columnar foundation. This is due to its low weight and low load on the ground.

When building a frame-type bath, you should follow the advice of experienced builders. This will help build a durable building. It is important to follow these guidelines:

• It is necessary to carefully fix the vapor barrier layer at the junction of the walls and the floor of the bath. This affects the durability of the building.
• Additionally, you can create a reliable thermal insulation of the frame bath from the side of the street. To do this, additional layers of hydro and thermal insulation are attached under the skin of the bath.
• From the inside, the lining of the bath should not be painted or opened with varnishes. Such compounds are capable of releasing toxic substances.

The ceiling and flooring in the bath are insulated with special diligence. It is necessary to use the same materials that were used for wall insulation. The frame bath - the favorable and far-sighted decision. Its construction will not take much time. If you develop a bath project in detail and prepare everything necessary materials, to build a bath will turn out quickly and efficiently. Such an object will be the pride of the owners of the site.

conclusions

It is quite simple to build a 5x5 frame bath on your site. As a base, a light columnar foundation is chosen. The walls are made of beams and OSB panels. It is important to properly waterproof the grillage and roof elements. This will extend the life of the building. Relying on finished projects, you can create your own drawing of a frame bath that meets the requirements of safety and economy.

One of the first and most important stages in the construction of any building is the arrangement of a supporting structure that can withstand the loads created by the structure and ensure its safety and integrity for many years of service. The compact 3x4 m bath is no exception. Despite its objectively modest dimensions, this building also needs a high-quality and properly mounted supporting structure.

In the course of studying the information below, you will learn how to choose a suitable foundation for a 3x4 m bath, on the basis of what indicators the choice of a particular design is determined, how to calculate it correctly and build it directly. The information received will help you choose the best suitable type and optimal dimensions of the support, as well as refuse the services of third-party contractors, significantly saving the budget allocated for the construction of the bath.

There are 2 key requirements for the foundation of any building. First, the supporting structure must be as reliable and durable as possible. Secondly, the design of the foundation must be such that seasonal ground movements do not have a significant impact on it.

When choosing a foundation design and its overall dimensions, in addition to all other factors, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil at the construction site and the depth of soil freezing, according to which such a significant indicator as the depth of the supporting structure is determined. In the course of studying third-party manuals, you probably came across the recommendation of not quite competent authors to lay the foundation to a depth of 60-80 cm, etc. In some cases, of course, such advice is relevant, but not always. The bottom line is that in different regions countries, the soil freezes to different depths and this must be taken into account. Information regarding these points is given in the following table.

In addition to the depth of soil freezing, it is necessary to take into account its type. The images show what types of soils exist and what they look like.

Properties, composition and types of soils
Classification of soil varieties

The dependence of the laying depth on the level of groundwater penetration and soil freezing is shown in the following table.

Based on the foregoing, it is possible to provide a table with recommendations for choosing the type of foundation for a 3x4 m bath in accordance with the properties of the soil at the construction site.

Foundation	Illustration	Priming
Tape (prefabricated, monolithic, precast-monolithic)		Non-rocky, dry, sandy
		Non-settlement clayey
Slab solid		Mobile, heaving, subsidence
pile		Almost all types of soil

Tape support structures are the most common and.

Slabs are somewhat less common, because. can not be used in combination with all types of soil - too mobile soil will simply destroy the slab.

Pile foundations are the most versatile, but the purchase and installation screw piles directly leads to an increase in the final cost of the work performed, which is far from acceptable for every developer.

More a budget option the supporting structure, in many respects similar to the pile foundation, is a columnar foundation.

In view of the foregoing, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for the calculation and construction of the most commonly used types of support bases: strip foundation and columnar structure.

Foundation Calculation: Basic Principles and Important Notes

The calculation procedure for foundations of strip and column type will differ. Task: to determine whether the base with the selected parameters can withstand the load created by the building from the materials selected by the developer, as well as atmospheric precipitation.

Belt design calculation

In the example under consideration, a monolithic system of concrete and crushed granite is calculated. The following image clearly demonstrates the plan and dimensional characteristics of the erected base. Based on the recommendations below, you can independently adjust the support plan and the procedure for calculating the loads.

Our strip foundation has dimensions of 4x3 m. The structure is inclined, expanding towards the bottom. Due to this feature, higher resistance to the forces of heaving of the soil on the site will be provided.

The heaviest loads in the considered structure will be subjected to 4-meter sections, because. overlap and logs rest just on the side walls. Let's calculate what kind of load the overlap and lags of the bath will create on 1 m of the foundation sole. To find the total load value, it is necessary to determine what load the snow, roof structure, ceiling, and walls will create on the concrete structure. Additionally, the loads created directly by the material of manufacture of the supporting structure are taken into account.

Snow loads are determined by multiplying the standard load created by snow in a particular area by the load area of ​​the roof structure for 1 m of the support system. The value of the standard snow load is determined according to the relevant documentation - here it is SNiP under the number 2.01.07-85. You can also navigate on a special map.

Additionally, standardized values ​​of the coefficients used in determining snow loads will be given in the corresponding table.

To determine the load load of the roof structure per meter of base, it is necessary to divide the total roof area by the length of the support. For the calculation, in this case, only the values ​​of the length of the side tapes are used (4 + 4 = 8 m). The length of the end parts (3 + 3 = 6 m) does not appear in this calculation, because roof beams, as noted, will rest specifically on the long bath walls.

Snow loads are calculated in the following order:

• find the total area of ​​the roof structure. To do this, we multiply the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the doubled length of the roof slopes and the length of the roof cornice. We calculate the length of the slope as follows: 3/2=1.5/cos 45=2.86 m. 2);
• we calculate the cargo area of ​​​​the roof structure for a meter of support: 23/8 \u003d 2.88 m 2;

as an example, we calculate the reference system for the region included in zone II in terms of snow loads. The specific snow load indicator here will be 70 kgf / m 2 (we will show the values ​​\u200b\u200bfor other zones in the table). We calculate as follows: 2.88 * 70 \u003d 202 kgf.

Determine the load generated roof structure. We need to find the value of the load from square meter horizontal projections of the roofing system. We have a 1.5 m tiled gable roof. It is mounted at an angle of 45 degrees.

We select the appropriate value in the following table.

And we consider: 1.5 * 80 \u003d 120 kgf.

To determine the load from the floors, first look at the table.

In this example, the load area also falls on the sides of the supporting structure (floors rest on the side bath walls). We find the cargo area of ​​bath floors for each meter of the foundation system as follows: 4 * 3 \u003d 12/4 \u003d 3 m 2. Density hardwood floor- 300 kg / m 3. We find the load as follows: 3 * 300 \u003d 900 kgf. If the floor in your bath is made of reinforced concrete, in the calculations we use a value equal to 500 kg / m 3, instead of the mentioned 300 kg / m 3, relevant for wooden structures.

We will find out what load the external walls will create on the bath base. We first study the following table.

We take the load value from the above table, after which we multiply it by the height of our bath walls, and then by the thickness of the wall. We take the height of the wall equal to 3 m, we take the thickness at the level of 0.4 m. Our walls are built of logs / beams. We consider: 3 * 0.4 * 600 \u003d 720 kgf.

To calculate the load from the foundation, we multiply the indicators of the volume of a meter of the tape and the density of the material for its manufacture. We take the density from the table.

We make the foundation of concrete and use crushed granite. The volume of a meter of tape specifically in our example is 0.45 m 3. We find the load: 0.45 * 2300 \u003d 1035 kgf.

Prices for crushed granite

crushed granite

It remains only to find the complex load on 1 m of the sole of the tape structure in section A-A(shown in the picture above).

We summarize the calculated values: 202+120+900+720+ 1035=2977 kgf. The supporting structure with such a section has an area of ​​50*100=5000 cm 2 . We determine the pressure on the ground: 2977/5000 = 0.6 kgf / cm 2. We build on lamellar clay soil. For such soil, the calculated comparison of the bearing capacity is equal to 1.5 kgf / cm 2. Consequently, the loads are more than acceptable, and a foundation with such parameters will serve perfectly for many years. You can take the calculated bearing capacity comparison for your soil from the following table.

Calculation of the column foundation

Let's calculate the columnar foundation. For its manufacture we use monolithic reinforced concrete. You can see an example design diagram in the following image.

Note! The picture shows the foundation plan for a building with dimensions of 6x12 m. For a 3x4 m bath, the parameters will remain the same, only the number of support pillars will change (according to the standard, it is recommended to install them every 2 m, i.e. each wall we will rely on 3 pillars - according to 2 in the corners and 1 in the middle of the length).

At the top, the cross section of the supports is 400x400 mm, in the sole - 800x800 mm. Specifically, in your case, the dimensions may differ, be guided by the situation.

Let us find the total load created by the sole of the support on the soil. To do this, we need to subtract the mass of the support system from the load found in the previous calculation: 2977-1035 = 1942 kgf.

We multiply the load indicators created in the gap between the supports: 1942 * 2 = 3884 and add the weight of one support to the found value. Each of the supports we use has a volume of about 0.25 m 3 . The density of the reinforced concrete used was indicated in the previously given table. We consider the mass of the column as follows: 0.25 * 2500 \u003d 625 kgf. The load of one column on the soil will be equal to: 3884 + 625 = 4509 kgf. Each pillar has a bearing surface equal to 6400 cm 2 (we find by multiplying 80 by 80). In our example, the bearing capacity of the soil is 1.5 kgf / cm 2. To determine the maximum possible loads, we do the following: 6400 * 1.5 = 9600 kgf. The obtained value significantly exceeds the load found by us (4509 kgf).

A columnar foundation with such characteristics will calmly endure the loads created by a 3x4 m bath, and will not even “move”. If desired, the dimensions of the supporting structures can be proportionally reduced - the main thing is that the design loads in the total do not exceed the limit.

At the same time, the arrangement of a columnar foundation, ceteris paribus, will require approximately 3-4 times less concrete than a strip support. significantly reduced and excavation. In the next section, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the results of calculating the required volume of material for arranging a tape support structure. After that, you can proportionally determine the consumption of concrete for pouring the pillars, taking into account the above information regarding the savings in materials.

Calculation of materials for pouring the foundation

The configuration of the strip base directly depends on the chosen internal layout of the bath, and the consumption of materials depends on it. In the case of a 3x4 m bath, there are few options for the internal layout of the bath - we will show them, and you will choose the one that is relevant for your case. We will pour the foundation with concrete of the 200th grade - for a compact bath, the indicated dimensions will be enough.

In our area, the soil freezes by 80 cm. We lay the tape 20-30 cm deeper than the specified value. Take 110 cm. We equate the width of the tape (A) to 3 m, the length (B) to 4 m, the height (C) to 110 cm, the thickness (D) to 40 cm. Depending on the layout, in the calculations will appear new values. We will describe them further in the relevant sections.

First layout option

Support for a bath, consisting of one room. The foundation looks like this.

The calculation for the tape is as follows (already taking into account 10 cm margins on each side).

Second layout option

A more common internal bath configuration. It consists of a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room / rest room.

In this example, an additional element appears, marked as E. The total length of its constituent elements is 4 m.

The base drawing looks like this.

It is pointless to consider other layout options for a 3x4 m bath - the most rational ways of distributing the available space were presented above.

We make a strip foundation for a bath 3x4 m

The structure we are building looks like this.

We get to work, following the instructions from the table.

Table. Arrangement of strip foundation

Stage of work	Description
	Firstly, we remove garbage from the site and, in general, everything that will interfere with us in the process of doing the work. Secondly, we remove the upper fertile soil ball (usually its height is 150-200 mm). If this is not done, plants that have rotted in the future will ruin the foundation. It is better to try to remove the soil according to the level and carefully level it - this will simplify the process of subsequent marking of the base (you will not have to waste time determining the highest and lowest angles, which will save time). In the future, the area of ​​the site, not occupied by the concrete strip, will need to be filled with compacted soil, cleared of various kinds of organic matter.
	We have leveled the site and can start marking from any angle - there will be no differences in height. At the location of any outer corner, we drive a reinforcing rod or a wooden block into the ground. We measure the distance to the next corner and drive in a new bar / rod there. We stretch the rope between the driven landmarks. Repeat for each corner of the ribbon. By marking the corners of the tape, we will get pairs of bars located next to each other (as shown in the photo). For convenience, we connect them from above with a horizontal bar made of timber. We measure the length of the diagonals. If they match, everything is fine, if they diverge, we made a mistake. We repeat the markup process more carefully.
	We dig trenches in accordance with the markup. Recommendations for choosing the optimal depth of trenches were given earlier. We do not remove the soil far - we then use it to fill the recesses formed at the first stage of work (mentioned in the corresponding paragraph). The bottom and walls of the trench are leveled and compacted. If the soil crumbles, we install a temporary formwork from the boards.
	We use clean fine-grained sand. The thickness of the backfill layer is from 200 mm. The higher the heaving of the soil, the more sand needs to be poured (up to 600 mm and even more). Sand is more convenient to fall asleep in small (10-15 cm) layers. The photo shows a device for manual sand compaction.
	In the photo - another version of the device for manual tamping of the backfill. To make the sand better compacted, spill it with water. It is better to do this before laying the material in the pit, so as not to wash away.
	Using the level, check the evenness of the pillow. We eliminate differences by removing excess sand or adding it where the backfill has insufficient height. Note! In areas with a high level of groundwater, instead of a completely sandy cushion, it is advisable to equip a backfill of sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 1.5. Crushed stone is usually poured from below the sand.
	The previously given calculations indicated what materials and in what quantity would be needed to equip the formwork. The diagram shows in detail what elements this structure consists of. You just have to prepare the required number of blanks, fasten them with screws (to make it easier to disassemble in the future) and install them in trenches.
	In the photo you see how the installed formwork for the strip foundation looks like in reality. A layer can be laid in the formwork waterproofing material(for example, polyethylene film). The presence of such will exclude the loss of moisture from the concrete solution.
	The calculations indicated how much and what kind of reinforcement should be used for a strip foundation of a particular design. Follow the advice given. Reinforcing mesh can be made directly in the formwork (first, vertical rods are installed in 2 rows, then horizontal crossbars, usually having a smaller diameter, are attached perpendicular to them) or “on the ground” (then the finished mesh is placed in the formwork). The second option is more convenient to implement, otherwise there are no differences between them. To connect the rods at the intersections, we use either a knitting wire or special clamps for reinforcement (a more convenient option). We do not recommend fixing by welding - such a design will last less. Important! The reinforcing mesh cannot be placed directly on the base - it will lead. It is necessary to provide a minimum of 5 cm gap between the pillow and the rods. To do this, we use either stable stones (cheaper) or special lock-stands (more convenient, easier and faster). A similar gap must be provided between the reinforcing mesh and the "top" of the fill. Both tapes for external walls and supporting elements for internal partitions are reinforced.
	If you wish, you can buy a ready-made solution - save time. Helpful advice! Even for arranging a strip foundation under compact bath 3x4 m will need a lot of concrete (calculations were given earlier). It will be quite difficult to quickly prepare it by hand - it’s better to think about buying or at least renting a concrete mixer in advance. We prepare concrete according to a standard recipe: we take a share of Portland cement of the M400 brand, on it - 3 shares of pure fine-grained sand, to them - 5 shares of crushed stone. The amount of water is determined by the weight of the cement - the liquid should be about half of this indicator. At the output we get a homogeneous mass of medium density.
	We fill the solution with a uniform horizontal layer, leveling it with a shovel in parallel and piercing it with a reinforcing rod to eliminate excess air (if possible, it is recommended to purchase / rent special device- deep vibrator). Make sure the fill is level. After pouring, we tap with a wooden hammer or bar on the walls of the formwork - this will additionally guarantee the correct distribution of the mixture.
	According to the standard, concrete hardens and gains the required strength within 28 days. Helpful advice! In order for all the cement to react, we spill the pouring surface with a relatively small amount of water every day (especially true for the warm season - if there is a lack of liquid, the filling will crack). After spilling water, we cover the foundation with polyethylene (it will prevent the sun's heat from evaporating water too quickly and will additionally protect the concrete from precipitation). If it is cold outside, we lay a layer of insulation on top of the polyethylene (it is most convenient to use foam plastic, it is not afraid of moisture, weighs little and is easy to fit / remove). We remove the formwork no earlier than the concrete hardens (it takes 1-1.5 weeks). In general, professionals recommend leaving the formwork until the concrete has fully gained strength.

Video - Do-it-yourself strip foundation

We make a columnar foundation for a bath 3x4 m

Schematically equipped design can be represented as follows.

We propose to make a columnar foundation using asbestos-cement pipes as formwork. We will fill it with the same solution as the tape structure. For reinforcement we use similar rods. Preparatory activities- from garbage collection to removal of a fertile soil ball - are carried out in the same order. We also markup according to the already familiar pattern, with the only difference being that here we mark on the site the places for the future installation of pillars: in the corners of each wall and partition, as well as along the length of those in increments of up to 2 m.

Prices for asbestos-cement pipes

asbestos-cement pipes

We proceed to the arrangement of a columnar base for a 3x4 m bath, following the provisions of the table below.

Table. We make a column foundation

Stage of work	Description
	Armed with a hand drill with a working “nozzle” of the appropriate diameter (most often the pillars are made with a diameter of either 250 mm or 400 mm, depending on the expected loads on the base), we prepare recesses for future supports. It is recommended that the pits be made a couple of centimeters wider than future pillars (the gaps will later be filled with compacted earth or sand). Above the ground, the poles are usually brought out by 200-250 mm. We select the depth so that the pillars are lowered below the freezing point of the soil by 200-300 mm. Recommendations for determining the depth of freezing were given earlier.
	We cover the bottom of each hole with a layer of sand. Recommendations regarding the choice of layer thickness, its alternative composition and compaction remain similar to the provisions for the arrangement of strip foundations. For tamping, a log of the appropriate diameter with handles fixed on top for greater ease of use is perfect.
	We assemble the reinforcing frame, focusing on the dimensions of the equipped column. Recommendations for choosing the characteristics of rods, their fastening and the size of the gaps between the bottom and top are the same as for the construction of a tape support structure. Additionally, it is recommended to leave 3-5 cm gaps between the mesh and the walls of the formwork (pipes). An approximate view of the reinforcing structure is shown in the photo. Select the shape of the frame in accordance with the shape of the pipes. We insert the pipes into the recesses and align them vertically, place the reinforcing mesh in the pipes and proceed to the next stage of work.
	The order is as follows: - pour concrete into the formwork pipe to a height of approximately 5 cm; - raise the pipe - concrete fills the space under it, due to which an additional support platform is formed; - we lower the pipe; - pour concrete to full height. We align the pipes vertically according to the level / plumb.
	The gaps between the posts and the walls of the pits are filled with compacted soil / sand. We provide additional stability of the pipes in any suitable way, for example, by installing temporary supports or by lining the pipes closely with massive stones. Let the concrete dry.
	We lay waterproofing on top of the hardened concrete: - spread a layer of molten bitumen; - lay the roofing material, press and level; - we repeat again. The formwork can not be dismantled - it will not interfere. It is recommended to continue construction after the concrete has gained the required strength, i.e. a month later.

Video - Do-it-yourself column foundation

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a 3x4 bath