Building a garage with your own hands. Do-it-yourself frame garage: step by step instructions with a photo report How to make a frame for a garage

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In our article, we will describe the stages of planning the construction of a garage.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is sufficient to equip a shallowly buried tape or columnar base. It can be poured from concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used to build walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need solid cinder blocks. The foundation of them is able to withstand a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a self-built garage on the net. For a passenger car of standard sizes, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for ease of passage and arrangement of shelving. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends are used. They are placed in the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To get a perfect rectangle, it should also be stretched from the corners - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug by hand - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After its excavation to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clay soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, this is not very necessary. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, the drawdown can be up to 0.5 m.

If a viewing hole is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying blocks for the foundation

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Types of strip foundation

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the row of the previous one. For getting robust design the verticality and horizontality of the rows is verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated so that it rises above the surface by 0.7 m.

The laid out base must be strengthened with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a cement mortar 2 cm thick. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. A double layer of roofing material or other rolled waterproofing is attached on top of it. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. After all, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are mounted before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the frame of the gate, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

For a strong fastening of the door frame, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long to it, which will later be laid into the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the bars.

After leveling the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a garage of standard sizes 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 = 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be equal to 18 x 2.3 \u003d 41.4 square meters. m.

The standard size of a cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. We multiply these numbers. Its lateral area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of a garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 square meters. m divided by the area of ​​one block of 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. We round the number up to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and marriage. We add 56 more blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

You can also use online calculators to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls in heated rooms, cinder blocks that can quickly absorb moisture require additional lining and insulation. Otherwise in winter time the condensate formed at the junction of heat and cold, solidifying, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can last 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them quite quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in your work.

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Construction of the walls of the garage from cinder blocks

1. Before purchasing blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, install a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There shouldn't be a gap between them.
2. Products from fine-grained slag are more expensive, but they also last much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
3. To fasten cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture. The seams in this case will be thinner and stronger. Using cement mortar proportions for kneading use standard ones: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be enhanced by adding plasticizers to it.
4. When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions.
5. Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that for 4 blocks it will take you about a bucket of mortar
6. For the walls of an unheated garage, half-stone masonry is enough when the blocks are laid along, and not across the wall
7. Block laying should begin from the corners with checking the verticality and horizontality of the rows with a building level. To do this, a string is stretched between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide.
8. Hollow blocks have only holes down
9. To get a checkerboard laying, the next row starts with a half of the block. In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
10. To strengthen the structure, it is better to use reinforcement (metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row is reinforced necessarily. Then the grid is laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings must also be reinforced. The grid is laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add soot to the solution to darken, lime or blue to lighten blue vitriol to get a blue tint. Or use special additives that you can buy at a hardware store.

garage floor

The cost of cinder blocks for building walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for arranging the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a block building will cost less than any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the building every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm more than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, cinder blocks must be replaced with more durable ones. concrete blocks.

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Thick, durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing material with a small 10-centimeter run on the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long visors should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured on top of the roofing material, foam plastic or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrudes 20 cm beyond the walls. Then, during rain or snowmelt, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a shed roof, the walls must have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

viewing hole

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viewing hole

Its arrangement is possible only when the groundwater rises below the level of 2.5 m. If they rise a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit. However, this will require additional labor and capital investments. With a high groundwater approach to the surface level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

• length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the length of the vehicle, for example, (4.5 + 1) = 5.5 m
• width, 200 mm less standard size the track of the car (the distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily drive into the pit without risking falling down; You can check this information in the technical documentation.
• depth: so that an adult can stand in it, straightening up, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the inspection hole needs to be done a little more so that there is room for concreting or laying brick walls. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. If necessary, niches for placing tools can be provided in the walls of the pit.

Finishing the walls of the pit with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the pit must be left for a week to dry.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is laid on the bottom, then a layer of foam (heat insulator), and it is again filled with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. Enough 15-20 mm.

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It is also desirable to pre-coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when pouring concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or bars is placed in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well bayoneted to remove voids.

When laying lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the reinforcing mesh using plastic ties before pouring concrete. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with the help of a metal corner, laid around the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to eliminate the possibility of falling.

Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats mounted on flip flops thick mortar. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with a film and left to dry for a week.

wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in the building. But at the same time it is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls of it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when freezing wet walls, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

In some areas, the garage appears before the house. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put the car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start by choosing a location.

Location selection

Choosing a place for a garage not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the building does not spoil appearance site. Immediately you need to decide whether it will be freestanding or attached to a house or other building on the site.

• Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the site is such that the access roads take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or make the garage door open directly onto the street.
• Being part of the building. It can be a house or a hozblok, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or attached later. Good if the house is built close to the border of the site. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and pull additional communications.

At self construction the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. Cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a place, it must be borne in mind that the distance to the neighbor's site must be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also normalized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.

The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options

Dimensions and designs

First you need to decide for what purpose the garage will be used. If this is just a parking lot, the dimensions can be done back to back - add one meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. That's enough for a parking space. If the garage will also be held repair work, you need a lift or a viewing hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same in front. At the back, half a meter is still enough. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. Restrictions only in the available space and the budget for construction.

With or without hole

The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. It depends on how and what kind of foundation you will make. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. An attractive option, but expensive and requiring large volumes earthworks.

The second option is more economical: only a pit 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm more than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.

The floor in the garage without a pit is even easier to implement. Then it just fills up without any problems.

Foundation for a garage

The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, even a tape, even a pile-grillage. Another issue is that you still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to immediately make a monolithic reinforced slab and not make the foundation first, and then the floor.

Tape - monolithic and prefabricated

Pile or pile-grillage

An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in its pure form under the garage is not very suitable - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check-in, you can use it. He and a pile-grillage with a low grillage are an excellent option for heaving soils (clay, loams with a high level of groundwater).

The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation

In the manufacture of a pile-grillage, a shallow pit is dug around the perimeter in the form of a tape (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, in increments of 1.5-2 meters, wells are drilled below the depth of freezing of the soil, formwork is inserted into them ( plastic pipe or rolled roofing felt). Three or four bars of reinforcement are placed inside the formwork with a release of 70 cm and poured with concrete. After that, the formwork is placed on the tape and the reinforcing cage for the tape is knitted, connecting it with the reinforcement of the piles. And it is also filled with concrete.

Monolithic slab

Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter, it is made larger than the dimensions of the garage by at least 30 cm. They remove the soil, digging a foundation pit 40-45 cm deep. Level the bottom, pour a layer of gravel. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is well rammed, using a vibrating plate if possible.

Formwork is placed along the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.

What are the walls made of?

Most of the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. It can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they are warm in themselves and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: enough small stove in order to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice it is necessary exterior finish. It is usually made the same as at home or as similar as possible.

The second popular garage wall construction technology is frame. The frame is made of metal profile pipe or impregnated with flame retardants (flammability reducing additives) wooden beam. Sheathing can be anything - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are combustible and cannot be called reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example, for a summer residence, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.

Gates

Garage doors can be swing, retractable, lifting. Swing - the simplest and well-known to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).

Heating and insulation of the garage

If you plan to use the garage all year round, it is necessary either to immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or to insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or ordinary foam). There is another option for non-combustible insulation, which in the case of a garage is just a great option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the racks of the frame. Non-flammable, inexpensive, keeps heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame racks, so you can mount it on them.

There are two types of organization of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. The constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If done separately, this is the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and controlled.

One of the options to organize heating in the garage is to hold on to a branch from the house. But it’s also not easy here: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of land work for its laying, and, preferably, not just into the ground, but into the sewer.

Periodic heating - stoves such as bourgeois stoves and their modifications. You can heat them with firewood, all sorts of combustible rubbish, which is usually enough. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove for testing - there is a lot of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described with the article "".

This type of heating is the easiest to organize: he put a stove and a fire, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come to a cold garage and melt it until it starts to warm up ...

Drawings and diagrams

Photo reports from construction

Often the essence technological processes it is difficult to understand from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help to put everything in its place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and are built quickly. A few examples are given below.

Wooden frame garage

The garage was built 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo 4 * 2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, impregnated with an antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.

The foundation is made columnar. Wells with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm were made with a manual drill. Sleeves made of roofing felt were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and they were filled with concrete.

Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to put up the walls. The bottom harness was assembled first. Used timber 150 * 100 mm. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.

The problem turned out to be a bunch with plastic fittings. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes under it, but it’s not clear how to fix it further. Anchors were fixed in concrete (two per pole), and holes with reinforcement were filled with epoxy. Whether they will help or not is not clear, but we hope to keep it somehow.

Further, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter step). They must be placed strictly up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable - bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. One was exposed, fixed with temporary braces, then nailed, moved on to the next. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). Fastened on nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.

So that the free ends of the lower harness do not move apart, they were temporarily fastened with a board.

After installing all the racks, logs were attached below. They gave rigidity, and it is needed, as we will climb up and fasten the upper harness.

We continue to collect the frame of the garage

When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the truss system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).

Having collected the required number of trusses, they installed them on the upper harness. They fixed it with pieces of boards to the racks on both sides, then they hammered it with nails, reinforced it with corners on self-tapping screws.

The rafters must also be placed exactly up, otherwise the roof will be taken away in winter. Therefore, how correctly it is worth checking often: before scoring, and after ....

After everything was installed and fixed, the crate was laid. A board 40 * 150 mm went on it, it was laid with a gap of 40 cm.

A corrugated board was stuffed on the crate.

We started to make the gate fastening area. Installed a beam at the top and sides.

The gates will be lift-and-turn. Under them, a frame is cooked inside, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a profile pipe 25 * 50 mm according to the size of the opening (with a small gap).

It is necessary to fasten the sheets with a gap of about 10 mm. For moisture-temperature expansion.

There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Rubble was poured inside until the floor was poured, but the car can already be parked, as well as drinking tea in the gazebo))

Do-it-yourself garage on a strip foundation

Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. built on sandy soil with low groundwater. Because the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, put up the formwork, tied the reinforcing cage. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.

Inside the tape, they took out excess soil, leveled the foundation pit. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and rammed (with a vibrating plate).

Packed sand

A polyethylene film was laid on top (for waterproofing), a metal mesh was laid and poured with M300 concrete.

The height of the screed is 10 cm. They left it to set for 2 weeks. Then we started putting up the frame. Boards 50 * 150 mm went to the frame itself and the rafter system, struts and jibs are made of 100 * 25 mm.

In the corners, additional boards were placed - for reinforcement. Racks are also reinforced in the places where doors and windows are attached. Installation step! walks "- the dimensions are small, but you need something door block, then put a window. I divided the rest as it turned out, but did not do more than 60 cm.

immediately gathered and rafter system. Since they passed in the middle bearing beams, and relied on them rafter legs. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. For reinforcement at the attachment points, metal mounting plates and corners were used. They were put on self-tapping screws, the frame elements were connected with a long nail.

A windproof membrane is stuffed on top of the frame. On it is a crate of an inch board, the pitch of the crate is about 50 cm.

After stuffing the membrane and the crate, the installation of the outer skin of the garage began. This is a metal profile on the walls and ondulin on the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size, fasten with self-tapping screws.

Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nail the crate, we mount the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving up.

It takes longer to fiddle with filing overhangs. They were sewn up with perforated siding (remains from building a house). Installed dry wood wind board 145*20 mm, painted in White color.

Installed wooden windows, painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will later be replaced and put in a barn. The corners are sheathed with a wooden board 145 * 20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.

Almost the result: more gates and insulation

The entrance was prepared: on the one hand, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other hand, they were supported by a board. They fell asleep with screenings, tamped. Entrance is ready.

Roller blinds were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became merciless, therefore a cheaper option was installed.

Frame garage - one of the most simple options construction of a utility room for car storage. It is not only technically simple, but also cheaper than brick or concrete walls. Price and technical availability are the main advantages frame buildings. How on your own? What features are important to consider for reliable and proper construction?

Frame types

Frame garages can be made of various materials - wood, OSB, slate asbestos-cement sheets, plastic siding, metal panels. Depending on the material of frame elements and walls, garages are divided into the following types:

• wooden buildings- in them, wooden beams or logs are more often used as supports, and edged and unedged boards, lining, panels made of wood materials are used as wall cladding. As a rule, wooden boxes are erected when working with “what is”, when the building is built from improvised means available - wooden panels, boards. wooden walls require high-quality protection against moisture and wetting. They need to be painted or varnished annually. And also periodically change rotten damaged boards, replace them with new wooden panels.
• metal- the most private types of frame structures for storing cars. They use metal corners, channels, beams as supports. As wall cladding - metal sheets. It can be profiled metal sheets or even rolled products. In order to build a frame garage with your own hands from metal, you must have available welding machine and be able to work with arc welding.

On a note

Mixed options are possible. Wooden beams can support plastic panel walls. It can be sheathed with asbestos-cement sheets (flat slate).

Read more about building a frame garage from different materials- on video.

Construction of a frame garage

A drawing of the frame and future construction is necessary for novice builders. It is also needed to calculate the consumption of building materials - support beams, wall cladding, roof panels. You can use ready-made drawings of garages, standard solutions, which are given in various recommendations for the construction of frame garages with your own hands, in step-by-step instructions. Or contact the experts and order the calculation and drawing of your garage with individual sizes required by the design.

Expanded drawing.

In there should be a sketch of the future frame.

Sketch drawing of the frame.

There should also be a drawing indicating the dimensions of all frame elements, the distance between them and the methods of attachment to each other. The drawing also indicates the type and dimensions of the wall sheathing panels, and how it is attached to the frame racks. The material, the size of the roofing sheets, as well as the step-distance of the roofing lags, is negotiated. A correctly drawn up drawing with all dimensions can be used as instructions for building a garage.

Foundation

The construction of a frame garage begins with design. And the work on its construction begins with laying the foundation. The walls of the future garage building can be light and cold, but the base must be deep (if there is an inspection hole) and strong.

Most often, a foundation slab is used as the basis for a frame garage. It has sufficient strength indicators, and fits in a short time. However, it differs in weight and requires the work of loading and unloading equipment. When using a crane, the slab is laid in place of the future utility building within an hour.

Foundation plate.

Before laying the slab, carry out preparatory work- level the soil, if necessary, make a small depression, or vice versa, raise the future, making an embankment. When laying a concrete slab in a pit, its bottom is first covered with a layer of sand - to drain groundwater, as a drainage layer. If the slab is laid on top of the ground without deepening, or on an elevated place, then it is enough to level and compact the ground.

A finished foundation slab is used if there is no need to build an inspection hole under the garage. If there is a need for a traditional garage pit, then they first build it, and only after that they proceed to the foundation, walls and roof.

A pit for a garage is arranged in the form of a soil recess of the required length, width and depth. Its walls are laid out with bricks, or cast with concrete, the bottom is also laid out with a small concrete slab. After arranging the pit, they begin to pour the main foundation slab.

Monolithic foundation with a viewing hole.

To prepare the soil for pouring, the bottom of the future slab is covered with sand. After that, the sand is spilled with water and rammed. On top - lay out the frame of the future foundation - from metal reinforcement, mesh, wire, formwork is built around the perimeter of the foundation. After that, concrete is poured.

A month is given to solidify the foundation slab. You can step on the base plate in a day. The concrete will be strong enough to support the weight of a person and carry out further construction works. But you can put the car only after the set of final strength - after 28 calendar days.

On a note

If the work is carried out in the heat, then the surface of the concrete is covered with a wet canvas in order to prevent its excessive drying and cracking of the slab due to the rapid evaporation of moisture from its surface. Periodically, as it dries, the canvas is moistened with water to maintain moisture in the surface layer of concrete.

The surface of the garage slab must be moisture resistant. When setting up the machine, water will drain from its wheels and bottom. Penetrating into the pores of concrete, when freezing, drops of moisture will expand the pores and initiate cracking of the surface. Therefore, before pouring concrete, moisture-resistant components such as Penetron, Aquastop are added to the mixture. When installing the finished foundation slab, its surface is impregnated with a waterproof mixture.

Frame assembly

Under the garage begins with the arrangement of vertical supports. In this case, the supports can be concreted into the foundation slab during the pouring process, or can be attached to concrete base on anchor connections, together with the bottom trim. The most high-quality and reliable option is concreting racks with penetration into the foundation slab and soil. It is used for construction in open areas with a large wind load. It requires the construction of a pit for each support and its separate cementing.

Racks in the ground with concreting.

More simple and affordable option- the use of lower logs and fasteners. In this method, the vertical support is not buried in the ground, but is attached with a metal corner to concrete floor or wooden beam, which acts as the bottom trim. Such a beam is pre-attached to the foundation slab, and then the frame supports are installed on it.

Upper horizontal logs are placed on top of the vertical bearing supports. On them - construct ceilings under the roof. The roof itself is constructed from roofing sheets, which are laid on top of the floor lag (elements roof frame). The bottom row of the roof is laid with a slight overhang.

Its edge should extend beyond the perimeter of the building by 50-60 cm. Such a roof overhang prevents excessive wetting of the walls and thus ensures their dryness, durability and the absence of moisture and mold in the garage. The minimum size of the eaves, up to half a meter, guarantees the protection of the walls from draining waste rainwater.

On a note

The assembly of the frame using threaded elements makes it possible to dismantle the garage and reinstall it in another place. The frame garage, if necessary, can be disassembled if the fastenings are made with bolts and screws. Assembly on bolts and screws provides the possibility of dismantling the walls, roof and frame of the garage building.

Read more about connecting the supports of the frame garage - in the video.

Roof types

The roof of the garage can be made in the form of a single or gable structure. To do the work with your own hands with minimal building experience, it is easier to build a shed roof. In this case, rainwater will be drained to one side of the garage building. In order to evenly distribute the drain on both sides of the garage, the roof structure is made gable.

Shed roof.

For the construction of a shed roof, the walls of the garage are made different in height. One wall is raised higher than the other by 300, 400 or more mm. The difference in the height of the walls determines the angle of the roof, which, in turn, depends on the amount of snowfall in winter period of the year.

On a note

The angle of inclination of the roof is determined by the amount of precipitation in winter. The more snow, the greater the angle of the roof slope. For regions with a temperate climate and an average amount of snowfall, the angle of inclination of the roof is chosen 20-25 °. For warm winters with little snow, 10-15° is sufficient.

With a wall height difference of 300-400 mm and a garage width of 3 m, the roof gets a slope of 10-15 °. Which is enough to roll snow in regions with moderate rainfall. For the construction of a garage in areas with heavy snowfall, the angle of inclination of the roof is made large, up to 30 °.

shed roof made using frame technology.

After the construction of the frame, they begin to hang the roofing elements. Step-by-step instructions for a frame garage regulate the rules for installing roof panels. Work begins with laying the bottom row of roof sheets. On top - lay the sheets of the next row. The top row, located along the raised wall, is laid last. Thus, the roof sheets overlap each other and prevent moisture from entering the garage space during rain or snowfall.

For construction, they are assembled from triangular frame elements. Their size is determined by the width of the garage and the angle of the roof. Triangular elements are assembled on the ground and then raised to the roof. Here they are installed on the upper trim of the walls. On top of the finished roof frame - lay slate or metal profile.

Finishing

The interior decoration of the utility room is often absent altogether. Especially if the garage is built without insulation. Less often, when arranging a warm garage, it becomes necessary to close the insulating material from the interior space. In this case, it becomes necessary and mandatory.

Moisture resistance requirements are not imposed on the material of the inner wall cladding. Therefore, waste panels are often used wooden production(OSB, chipboard) or plywood sheets. If necessary, they carry out shelves and cabinets built into the wall, attaching them to the supports of the garage frame.

Warming

The need for insulation arises when it is necessary to carry out any work in the garage in winter. Or when it is planned to equip a warm garage with the ability to dry the bottom of the car after driving in the cold and wet season.

Do-it-yourself warming.

Garage insulation differs from similar work in residential buildings by the choice of a heat insulator. If it is important to ensure a healthy microclimate in residential premises, to equip natural air circulation, then in garage insulation easier to do. You can get by with a forced periodically operating hood. And also use less useful and cheaper heaters - polystyrene foam and glass wool.

When insulated with glass wool, it is placed between vertical posts. Thanks to its compressibility, it is easily held in place. The thickness of the cotton wool insulation is determined by the level of winter temperatures. For residential buildings at an average temperature of -10 ° C, the thickness of wool insulation is chosen up to 100 mm. For garages and more utility rooms choose thickness up to 50 mm.

On a note

When insulating with glass wool, it is important to consider that over time the material may sag. In places where glass wool sags, "cold bridges" will form, through which heat will "leak".

Foam insulation does not have the disadvantages of using glass wool. Styrofoam does not settle over time and does not lose its shape. At the same time, it is quite inexpensive, which makes it a popular material for frame garage insulation.

If living quarters are not recommended to be insulated with polystyrene foam due to possible harmful fumes, then this type of insulation is optimal for the garage space. It is inexpensive, easy to install and works as a heat insulator for a long time, keeping heat inside the building.

When installing foam, gaps form between the racks of the frame. This is due to the rigidity of the foam boards. The resulting mounting slots are blown with foam.

Types of garage doors

Frame garages in the photo differ in design entrance gate. Traditionally, garage doors are double-leaf. However, other designs are also possible. What can be Garage Doors?

Gates.

Swing - the traditional form of the gate in the form of doors that swing open, open to the outside of the room. The simplest and most affordable do-it-yourself construction. Opens manually.

Sliding - an improved form of entry into the garage, which can be supplemented with an automatic device. In this embodiment, the garage door slides off the rails to the side when a signal is given from a remote device.

Roll-up structures are also possible, but their cost is much higher, so they are less often used in frame structures.

The construction of the garage can be ordered by third-party specialists. You can also explore instructions available and build a great garage with your own hands. In this case, you do not have to spend money on anything other than building and finishing materials. You will personally control each stage of work and be sure of the quality and reliability of the finished structure.

Select suitable material to build a garage. The design can be made of "stone" building materials and metal. Brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. are usually used as stone materials.

The stone structure is characterized by more high reliability when compared with metal structures. The metal garage wins in terms of complexity and speed of construction. Otherwise, you will have to decide on a suitable building material yourself.

First, the procedure for building a garage from stone materials will be considered, and at the end you will receive recommendations for the construction of a metal garage.

Project preparation

A good project is the key to success. Project documentation can be the most modest. The main thing is that the following information should be reflected in the project:

• tasks assigned to the future structure. A garage designed solely for storing a car will be different from a building in which it is planned to carry out any other repairs. Be sure to consider this point and reflect your wishes in the project;
• construction dimensions. They depend on the requirements for the future garage and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe available construction site. To store a passenger car, a room of 3x6 m is enough. For the rest, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Consider the above points and draw a sketch of the future garage on paper or in a computer program.

Marking and earthworks

Transfer the finished sketch to the real area. A number of reinforcing pegs will help you with this. Usually bars with a diameter of 12 mm are used. You will mark the corners and sides of the garage with pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

After marking is completed, proceed to the main earthworks. The earth can be dug with the help of special equipment or manually. If you are planning to equip a viewing hole in the garage or even a full-fledged cellar, it is recommended to use the help of companies specializing in earthworks. Digging such a large hole by hand is very difficult.

In the process of digging, consider the features of the future foundation. For a strip base, a trench with a depth of 60-100 cm is sufficient. The specific depth depends on climatic conditions and type of soil at the construction site. A meter depth is sufficient in most cases.

Level the bottom and sides of the pit. An ordinary shovel will help you with this.

Foundation device

Today, there are many types of foundations. Private garages are usually built on rubble concrete foundations. This is a relatively budgetary and extremely easy-to-arrange system that you can do yourself.

First step. Lay rubble stone in the trench. This stone should be placed in layers, spilling each layer with a concrete solution. Prepare the solution on the basis of cement M400 and above. Lay the stone up to the top of the hole.

Second step. Install a wooden formwork for the base around the entire perimeter of the pit. Assemble the formwork structure from boards. Boards with a width of about 10 cm are suitable. In general, the design is set strictly according to the level.

Third step. Lay moisture barrier material over the plinth. Two layers of roofing material will be more than enough. The material is laid dry.

Fourth step. Fill the basement of the future garage with concrete mortar to the level set by the formwork.

Installing gates, arranging walls and erecting a roof

First step. Install the gate. This element is installed strictly before the construction of the walls. Weld reinforcement bars with a diameter of about 12 mm to the gate frame. Thanks to the bars, a stronger connection between the garage door and its walls will be provided. During the construction of the walls, the reinforcement will be embedded in the seams. Install the gate strictly vertically. After leveling the gate, fix it with wooden braces.

Second step. Start laying out the walls from the selected material. The next row of masonry, regardless of the material used, must overlap the seams of the laid row. Directly masonry should start from the corners. Be sure to check the verticality of the walls, the correctness of the angles and the horizontality of the rows of masonry at each stage.

Third step. Mount the roof of the garage at a slope necessary for the removal of atmospheric water. To obtain a slope, make end walls of different heights. Traditionally, a slope of 5 cm per 1 m2 is performed. For example, if the garage has a length of about 6 m, the total height difference will be about 30 cm.

The overlap of a private garage will look like metal beams with additional filing from wooden boards. Prepare the I-beams. Their height should be about 12 cm. Use the beams so that their length is approximately 250 mm longer than the width of the future garage. Insert these beams into the structure by at least 100 mm. At the support points of the beams, cinder block, brick or other building material used should be replaced with monolithic concrete blocks.

Lay the beams across the building at a distance of about 800 mm from each other. Beams are laid with embedding in a long wall of the building and the same slope as that of this wall.

Step four. Fasten at the bottom of the beams wooden planks 4-5 cm thick. Lay the boards as close as possible to each other. Cover the boards with roofing material. The edges of this waterproofing material should extend approximately 100 mm onto the wall.

Fill the roofing material with slag or cover the waterproofing with another insulation, for example, mineral wool insulation boards. On the rear and front edges of the roof, you need to install visors protruding by about 40 mm. Use boards to make canopies. Pour a cement screed about 3-3.5 cm thick over the insulation. Try to level the screed as carefully as possible. Be sure to treat the frozen screed with a bituminous primer.

Step five. Finally, the roof must be waterproofed. To protect against moisture, you can use roofing material already familiar to you. This waterproofing material is laid using the fusing method. Also roofing material can be fixed using bituminous mastic. Lay sheets of roofing material with an overlap of about 100-150 mm. At the edges of the roof, overlap the visor.

Flooring and paving guide

Make the floor at the level of the upper border of the base or slightly higher. The floor structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle and other loads. For pouring, use concrete prepared on the basis of cement grade 500. Or buy ready-made concrete grade M200. The thickness of the fill layer should be about 10 cm.

First step. Carefully level the base for pouring the floor.

Second step. Expose by required level lighthouses and pull a string between them. Lighthouses can be made, for example, from a profile pipe or other suitable material.

Third step. Lay a crushed stone pillow about 5 cm thick on the base.

Fourth step. Pour concrete in strips between the beacons. After all concrete has been laid, the surface must be carefully leveled.

Fifth step. While the floor is gaining strength, take care of outdoor work, in particular, a blind area device. In the case of a garage, a blind area 50-60 cm wide is sufficient.

The blind area is created in the same order as the floor, i.e. first you install the beacons, then prepare the gravel base and pour concrete mortar. Only first you need to install boards that will mark the boundaries of the blind area, i.e. make formwork. The blind area itself is recommended to be done with some slope from the walls of the garage. The recommended thickness of the structure is 40-60 mm.

As a rule, they do not pay special attention to finishing the garage. In most cases, the owners simply rub the walls with a cement mortar and cover them with a layer of plaster.

A more significant point is the thermal insulation of the structure. Mineral wool and polystyrene slabs are suitable for insulation.

The ceiling, walls and garage doors are insulated in a similar manner. A crate is attached to the surface to be trimmed with a step equal to the width of the insulation plate, then a plastic film is laid on the crate, a heater is laid over the waterproofing, the laid plates are covered with moisture insulation and at the end the finishing sheathing is performed, for example, clapboard, siding or other material of your choice.

The procedure for the construction of a metal garage

The arrangement of a metal garage requires less money and time.

First step. Make a foundation. Prepare a trench with a depth of about 400 mm along the perimeter of the future metal structure. Fix the formwork boards along the outer boundaries of the pit. Make the formwork of such a height that after pouring the solution layer protrudes at least 10 cm above the ground. Pour the solution immediately over the entire area.

Second step. Make a frame from a profile pipe. You will need a welding machine. Attach the frame elements to the dried concrete base. For fixing, use an anchor with a length of about 20 cm and a diameter of about 14 mm. Anchors can be made from rebar. For greater convenience, pre-prepare holes in the concrete with a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchors.

Third step. Weld the lower belt of the garage frame to the hammered rods. For reliable fixation of a 4x6 m structure, 15 anchors will be enough. Continue to weld the transverse chords of the structure until you get the frame of the required height.

Fourth step. Sheathe the frame with sheet metal. Sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm will suffice.

Fifth step. Insulate the walls of the garage from the inside. To do this, first attach a frame of wooden bars to the walls. Place the bars in increments equal to the width of the insulation plate. For thermal insulation, it is most convenient to use mineral wool or foam. Pre wooden frame should be covered with plastic wrap, and already lay insulation on it. Lay a vapor barrier film over the thermal insulation. At the end, sheathe the walls with clapboard, OSB, siding, chipboard or some other material of your choice.

Thus, if you need a simple and inexpensive garage, give your choice in favor of a metal structure. If properly erected and carefully handled, a metal garage will last a very long time.

If you want to have a capital and most durable structure, make a garage out of concrete blocks, bricks and other similar materials. Both tasks are solved without any problems on their own, you just need to carefully follow the instructions and unconditionally follow the main recommendations.

Successful work!

Video - Building a garage with your own hands

Brick is expensive, but recently it has not been in demand, and not only because of the high cost. Yes, the brick looks beautiful, has excellent characteristics, but construction takes too much time. Another thing - alternative materials:

Here are the three main building materials used economical builders. Let's explore the details technologies building a garage cheaply and reliably.

from wood

Perhaps, wood- this is the most best option, because here, like in no other option, external aesthetics, environmental friendliness, economy and ease of construction are successfully combined. But working with wood has its own nuances.

Please note that there are two ways to build: from round logs And frame technology . The first is more reliable, the second is cheaper. Choose the most suitable option for you.

Technology

How to build a garage cheaply with your own hands from wood? Preparatory stage consists in choosing the location of the future structure and its model. Garages are free standing or attached to the building. The types of gate opening are also multivariate. All of these points must be in advance.

After drawing up a plan and layout, the construction site is leveled, cleaned, and rammed. The site must be perfectly flat so that after that there are no kinks and distortions.

The site is ready, it's time to start the most important part of our construction - pouring the foundation. Along the perimeter of the future development, a trench is dug, on which formwork is installed. Definitely a must do pillow from several layers of sand and gravel, which is carefully compacted.

The base is reinforced with metal rods and poured with concrete. Now you need to let the foundation stand at least three weeks. When the foundation is ready, we proceed to the lower strapping, which is carried out from the board 50x100 mm.

ATTENTION: Be aware of the wood's tendency to absorb moisture and rot. Therefore, pre-treat the building boards antiseptic.

For corner posts and gate leaves, it is best to take beam, while other frame elements are made of boards 50x100 mm. When performing the lower strapping, maintain an interval of no more than 120 cm.

Also, if you want your garage to be as durable, strong, solid and last as long as possible, install braces at the corners. This will give the structure more stability.

The hardest part of the job is foundation pouring And frame erection. For the frame, stronger, thicker boards are needed, while for the arrangement you can already use a 25x100 mm board, even a simple lining will do here. The board is then sheathed with any finishing material, after which it is necessary to carry out hydro- and vapor barriers by laying several layers of polyethylene or polypropylene film.

As you can see, the garage itself is cheap wood not that hard to build.

Garage photo wooden:

cinder block

Second most popular building material for the garage is cinder block. To date, cinder blocks are of several types:

• from blast-furnace slag, which is famous for its excellent performance and durability;
• shell rock;
• brick fight.

To improve performance, some manufacturers add more perlite, polystyrene and other materials.

The cinder block is good for everyone, but there is one in it flaw: like a tree, he absorbs moisture, which is rapidly destroyed. With dry soil, this quality of the material will not be problematic, and with proper construction it will last up to fifty years, but in places where ground water, it is better to choose another material, because, if the tree can still be varnished, carry out such manipulations with a cinder block it is forbidden.

ATTENTION: You need to know that cinder blocks are divided into types not only by composition, but also by configuration into hollow ones, which are used for walls, and solid ones, intended for the foundation. Ignoring this feature can lead to the rapid destruction of the entire structure.

Technology

In the construction of a garage cinder block, we also carry out preparatory work, cleaning and leveling the site, developing a plan for the future building.

A flood foundation is ideal for a tree, but cinder blocks do not need such a powerful support, it will do here. The strip foundation is made as follows: the top layer of soil is removed and a trench is dug about 45-50 cm deep and 40-45 cm wide. Then a pillow is made of sand and broken brick, which is then poured with cement.

You can also do it differently: the trench is covered with sand, and then filled with water. The combination of water and sand gives the construction strength and makes it resistant to time and changes in temperature and humidity. After that, reinforcement is laid on the bottom and the entire structure is concreted.

In a month, you can start building walls. The third way to build a strip foundation even easier: rubble stone is poured into the trench instead of sand and the entire structure is poured with cement raster, not lower than 150 marks.

After the foundation has been erected, the basement is equipped with heat and vapor barrier materials. by the most universal option hydro, heat and vapor barrier is simple ruberoid.

• walling;
• floor screed;
• roofing;
• hanging gate.

cinder block masonry identical with bricklaying, only here this work is carried out several times faster. Laying can be carried out in the stone floor (spoon method) or in one stone (poke method).

Masonry in 2 and 1.5 stones is also practiced. You choose the option that suits you, remembering that the thickness of the walls directly affects the durability of the garage and its ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature. A one-stone garage will freeze in winter, even if several heaters are installed in it, while one and a half and two stones will be warm and cozy.

When building walls, you should initially lay out the corners, and only then, stretching building cords between them, start laying blocks brick method, that is, overlapping the seam of the previous row.

When constructing the floor, remember that the screed must be at least 10 cm. Concrete is good for screed M200, which is poured in several layers, and then, after drying, rubbed.
The final stage - electrification And interior decoration.

Garage photo from cinder blocks:

Decking

How easy is it to build a garage? For this, a universal material is suitable. corrugated board. It is perfect for fences, for sheds, it also makes good garages. But here the most important condition is the competent choice of corrugated board: only cheaper is suitable for building a garage brand PS or WITH.

Decking is marked with a letter and a number. Letter "WITH" stands for "purpose for walls", number - sheet stiffness. The higher the number, the stronger the sheet. S-20- the best option for construction.

Sometimes sellers, due to their illiteracy or when there is no twenty in stock, advise ten or eight for construction, but! Never fall for this sales trick! A garage made of such a sheet, although it will cost much less, will not last long, besides, it will be icy in winter, and it will be impossible to warm it up. And the walls will shake from the wind. You need it? We think not, therefore, we stop at the standard twenty.

Ideal deck thickness half a millimeter.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from corrugated board? We will need:

• reinforcement and concrete for the foundation;
• elements for the frame: corner, bars, metal rods;
• metal elements for gates;
• self-tapping screws.

Arm yourself next tool:

1. screwdriver;
2. welding machine;
3. Bulgarian;
4. metal scissors;
5. jigsaw.

Garage photo from corrugated board:

Let's get to work. First of all, we fill. Having cut off the soil by half a meter, the resulting trench is covered with sand and poured with water. Under the frame racks, wells are made, which will simultaneously become foundation racks.

This work will help to make the foundation stronger and more resistant to ground movement. Wells are driven to a depth of at least half a meter.

Further, everything is standard: a wooden formwork is erected, on which the bars of the reinforcing structure are installed. For strength, the rods are attached with wire. Now the main thing is not to forget to install frame structure racks in the wells.

IMPORTANT: Before installing racks, it is necessary to process bitumen underground part of the building.

To prevent the racks from warping, they are carefully aligned with level. The last stage of work is pouring reinforcement with concrete. Use mark 300, for this case, this is an ideal option.

Some builders claim that it is possible to build within two or three days after pouring concrete, but professionals advise to wait for the required three weeks, otherwise the foundation may crack, and then it will no longer be possible to correct the error. Patience and again patience is the key to success.

When the foundation is ready, erect metal carcass . Both welding and a grinder with a jigsaw for cutting are useful here. metal pipes right size, and some more welding skills. With the basic skills of a welder, the frame is cooked in a day or two. The newcomer is transported for a week. In order to make a frame, you need to carefully study the drawing several times and cut the material according to its data.

Using welding, we cook horizontal metal rods to the racks. Welding in progress at three points. If the frame is made of timber, then in addition to everything, special fasteners for wooden beams are welded to the racks. The bars are attached with self-tapping screws.

Now the corrugated board is attached self-tapping screws. You can adjust the sheets to size using a jigsaw. This work is best done team out of three or four people, it is almost impossible to cope with it alone.

When the frame is completed, the installation phase of the gate begins. Here you also need to show patience and maximum attention in order to avoid mistakes. The frame of the gate is made of metal corners and sheathed with a profiled sheet. This job can be done in a day or two.

As a rule, it is performed in a single-sided version. The roof frame is made of crossbeams (wooden or metal), on which a crate from a lining is attached. It is important to take into account the climatic features of your region.

IN southern regions you can use a lightweight design of the crate. In the north, where the winter period with blizzards and snow drifts is long enough, it is better to make a stronger, more solid structure that can withstand the load of snow.

We have described the main stages of construction technology. Now it's your turn to choose what cheaper build a garage with your own hands for your swallow. And we only have to wish you good luck and a peaceful sky over your head!

Useful video

How to lay the cinder block during construction budget garage , watch the video: