What is the crate attached. Nails for roof sheathing. Types of roof frames

crate

Foundation for the device roofing material is a crate. With its device, it is necessary to observe a lot of nuances and subtleties. That is why the crate under the metal tile should be carried out, if not by professionals, then using professional instructions.

First of all, you need to understand what a crate is. This term is used to refer to a structure of beams and boards attached to the rafters perpendicularly. The crate under the metal tile takes on the direct load from the roofing material and transfers it to the rafters, and then to the supporting structures of the entire building.

For the construction of the crate, the following types of materials are used:

timber;
boards;
plywood.

There are several types of crate structures.

Discharged.
solid

Single-layer - structural elements are laid horizontally on the rafters, while the boards are parallel to the ridge.

Double layer - a double layer of sheathing is assumed. In this case, the second layer in the direction of the ridge along the overhang, sometimes the bars of the second slope are laid diagonally on the first slope.

The theory of the device of the lathing under the metal tile

Before the process of laying roofing, care should be taken to create better conditions for a durable and reliable flooring, since the construction of any type of roof requires a crate with a different pitch. Boards for a counter-lattice under a metal tile can have different thicknesses. So, when buying a material for a crate with a thickness of 30 mm, in fact, elements will be obtained, the width of which will differ from those declared within 5 mm.

This phenomenon is observed almost always. The only exception is a calibrated planed board. That is why, preparation for the installation of the crate for laying metal tiles involves calibrating and leveling the boards.

This procedure allows you to exclude on adjacent rows and joints of battens that differ in width and thickness of the board. Since the use of different-sized boards, which differ significantly in size, will lead to difficulties in laying metal tiles.

Using a board with a thickness of 30 mm allows you to have a margin necessary for sawing, capable of reducing its thickness.

The board must withstand the weight of even a large person. Indeed, during the construction of the roof, it is planned to walk on the boards. An unedged or semi-edged board is not recommended for use in the construction of a crate.

Lathing under the metal tile

The step of the crate under the metal tile should be carried out according to the following rules:

The distance between the elements of the lathing bars is indicated in the instructions for the types of roofing. It is counted from the top of one board to the bottom of the second board.

The pitch of the sheathing is selected in accordance with the type of metal tile, since different pitches are required for different profiles.

Between the first two boards of the crate, the step value should be less than the elements of the bars.

The step of the crate under the metal tile is affected by the slope of the roof slope, as well as the size of the protrusion of the roof beyond the outer bar of the crate.

The calculation of the crate step can be influenced by the presence of a downpipe, which can have a different width and configuration. When fixing the drain to the frontal board, it is nailed to the ledge. An important role is played by the diameter of the gutter. So, for example, with a gutter diameter of 9 cm, a protrusion of the same size is required, with 12 cm, a larger one.

The protrusion of the roofing material begins to be calculated either from the rafter cut or from the frontal board. Thus, the steeper the angle of the roof slope, the lower the metal should be lowered in order to even out the length of the protrusion. If the calculation is incorrect, then the crate of the metal tile may not be located where the metal tile should be fastened with self-tapping screws.

The distance between two boards is calculated using a level. Next, the distance from the top point of the very first wave to the edge of the lower part of the metal tile sheet is measured, make a mark.

From the very edge of the frontal board, it is necessary to draw a vertical line to the previously established level and make a mark. Between the two marks made, a certain distance will be obtained between the bottom of the first board and the top of the second board of the crate, taking into account the protrusion of the roofing material and the slope of the slope.

The first board of the sheathing should be made thicker, as this will help to avoid a hanging protrusion when fixing the roofing material.

The length of the other boards of the crate during the construction of the roof is measured from the top of the second board at regular intervals, corresponding to the roof profile. Marks must be applied through several rafters, as in the end the board may turn out to be crooked. In this case, measures will have to be taken to level it so that the roof lies firmly and evenly.

After the first three or four rows of the crate are completed, the rest of the boards, for convenience, can be laid on a slope.

Boards that are in the same row of battens should be connected on the rafters. Do not overlap boards under roofing material. The difference in the joints must be made along the rafters.

We draw your attention to the fact that the crate should be joined on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure.

Also, do not forget that the laying and calculation of the crate must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the rest of the roofing material.

We draw your attention to the fact that the crate should be joined on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure. Also, do not forget that the laying and calculation of the crate must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the rest of the roofing material.

Installation of the crate under the metal tile: step-by-step instruction

It is necessary to choose a beam for rafter legs next size: not less than 5 by 15 cm, and under the crate not less than 2.5 by 10 cm. for a counter-lattice, a board 2.5 by 5 cm is ideal.

The rafter step for the crate should be about 6-9 cm.

The initial board is nailed strictly along the cornice overhang so that it does not go beyond it.

Please note that the thickness of the first board should be a couple of centimeters more than the rest. This is necessary to compensate for the level of the support points of the entire tile module.

The step of the elements of the crate is assumed to be such that the distance between the first board and the cornice is at least 5 cm, and between the subsequent ones - 30-40 cm. Between the rest of the boards, the pitch of the crate should be equal to the pitch of the metal tile profile, that is, 35-40 cm.

In order to check whether the distance between the first two boards of the crate is correctly chosen, it is necessary to lay out two plank cuts on the ground, parallel to each other and at a certain distance, tile elements are placed on them and it is determined whether the roof protrusion is sufficient for water flow. If the protrusion is too large, water may overflow the edge of the gutter. Too little protrusion will cause water to be blown between the front board and the gutter. In addition, there is some possibility of deformation of the sheets under the load from the snow.

Marking must begin with the first board facing the eaves. Perform e with a tape measure.

Above the crate, a wind board should be arranged. Depending on the type of tile, the height of the sheet can vary from 3.5 to 5.5 cm.

In the places where the ridge is attached, for greater strength, additional boards are clogged, with a section of 3 by 10 cm. This should also simplify its further installation.

In the process of planning an organized drain, before starting the installation of the roofing material, it is necessary to install brackets to secure the gutters. The eaves pan is mounted before installation of a metal tile on an overhang of a roof.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the places for fixing the bracket, which are fixed in increments of 5-6 cm and fixed along the bottom of the crate.

The gutter is inserted into the brackets and fixed. The cornice plank is attached to the crate in such a way that the edge of the gutter is covered by the edge of the plank. It is this overlap that is able to ensure the flow of condensate from the bar into the gutter. The length of the overlap must be at least 10 cm.

Lathing device for metal roofing: solid batten option

In construction, a continuous type of crate is used. It is laid out with the help of beams, between which there should be gaps of 1-2 cm, and in a discharged crate - about 3-5 cm. In addition to metal tiles, a solid crate is also suitable for various kinds soft roof and various types of natural slate.

Please note that a solid crate should be located on the overhangs of the cornices and on the sloped intersections of the roof (ribs, valleys, ridge).

Before starting the installation of a continuous crate, you should take care of the anti-condensation film. If, according to the plan, the roof structure provides for insulation (as is the case with a residential attic), then it is necessary to use a film to protect the insulation from condensation and blowing. If you do not use the film, most likely the attic room will turn out cold and damp. Because roof structures and the crate will remain unprotected from the effects of the environment.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the selected film must be laid over the rafters, from the bottom of the roof.

horizontal stripes overlap each other by about 15 cm. Also, do not stretch the film. For its best functioning, sagging of several centimeters is necessary. The film is fixed along the rafters with special bars, the width of which, in cross section, is equal to the width of the rafters themselves, and the thickness, at the same time, is at least 4 cm.

After the installation of the film flooring over the entire roof is completed, the next step is the installation of a crate under the metal tile, on which the metal tile will subsequently be fixed. In the case when the roof structure does not provide for the flooring of the film insulator, then the horizontal crate is fixed directly on the rafters. The boards used for the lathing device should be treated with antiseptic solutions and have a cross section of about 3 cm. Any so-called inch board will do here. In this case, it must be taken into account that the boards must be adjusted, both in length and in thickness. It is on this that the even position of the roof elements depends. However, the bottom board should be a couple of centimeters thicker than the rest.

The first board should be attached at the bottom of the rafters. The boards must be fixed in several places with self-tapping screws or nails, this is necessary so that they do not turn out. The step of the plank flooring can be equal to the step of the wave of the tiles, or be continuous, without gaps. In case of their curvature, fixing the sheets of metal tiles will be complicated.

Properly executed crate can significantly reduce the percentage of noise arising from exposure to wind, rain and other weather disasters.

In the same way as in the case of a discharged crate, a solid crate is completely covered with a layer of waterproofing film. The end of the film is fixed along the roof eaves so that it hangs down and completely covers the roof surface.

We draw attention to the need to leave a distance between the laid film and the rafters. This distance should be about 2 cm. At the top of the waterproofing, bars should be fixed, on which a layer of counter-battens is later laid.

roof lathing

Bars should be taken with a minimum section of 4 by 2.5 cm. The next layer after the counter-lattice is nailed to the bars. In this case, you should be very careful about the calculation of the step of the metal-tiled wave. And it is at this distance that the crate bars should be placed.

The board facing the eaves should be installed several tens of centimeters wider than other boards for the crate.

The end plank of the crate is arranged above all other elements of the crate approximately at the height of the metal tile sheet.

At the ends of the ridge strip, in addition, a couple more boards should be laid, carefully securing them. This is necessary to enhance the strength of the structure.

In the rafter system, the ridge board must be securely fastened.

The gutter for the drain is attached to the lowest board of the roof batten.

In places near valleys, pipes and along the perimeter of the auditory openings and skylights the counter-lattice is laid in a continuous method.

For internal and external sheathing, it is advisable to use anodized galvanized self-tapping screws or nails in the process of laying the roof. From ordinary nails, at the first rain, the lining will be damaged.

After the work on the construction of the crate is completed, the installation of the metal tile begins.

In conclusion, a few tips for building from wood:

boards should be treated with antiseptic, refractory materials;
after the laying of the boards is completed, make sure that the coating does not have sags, bumps or protruding hats from self-tapping screws and nails;
the finished crate must be so strong that it does not bend under a person;
for the manufacture of flooring it is worth using wide boards;
well-dried material must be used;
the joints of the boards on the rafters should be staggered;
boards should be nailed along the edges, and hats should be sunk in wood;
you should responsibly approach the purchase of building material; check the boards for warps, cracks and other structural changes.

As a result, the construction of the crate is not a complicated process, but a responsible one. The quality and service life of the roofing material depends on how well the installation is carried out.

For construction, it is extremely important to choose quality material. Thus, if raw boards are used, the fasteners will not last long and will quickly loosen. Since the boards are subject to shrinkage, they will change in size over time, in the process of drying.

In addition, the construction of low-quality material is more susceptible to damage from snow loads.

Most materials are attached to the building envelope not directly, but through an "intermediary". This is both more convenient and, if necessary, simplifies repairs. In some cases, this method of installation is a mandatory technological condition. A specialized frame designed for such installations is called a crate. Further in the article, we will talk about how the crate is being installed, what it happens to be, and according to what rules it is calculated.

Although the most common design in which the crate is used is pitched roofs, but there are other planes where it suits. The most popular option is a wooden crate, but there are also metal structures.

If we summarize all the cases when the crate is arranged, we can deduce three large groups:

Roofing device
Installation internal walls and partitions
Creation of ventilated, hinged and other decorative facades

As a rule, in the last two cases, the crate really looks like a checkered structure. On the roof, the options can be very different.

The scheme of the carrier system is determined by the coating material used, and is calculated separately in each case.

According to this principle, the following types can be distinguished:

The usual step of the crate - as a rule, is in the range of 20-40 cm between the bars or boards
Sparse - when the distance between the elements is 50-75 cm, sometimes more
Solid crate - made of boards with a distance between them of up to 10 mm (the gap is made to avoid damage to the roof in case of swelling or drying of the boards). Dry tes is laid close, sometimes a grooved connection is arranged. Also, sometimes they arrange a structure made of solid sheet materials: OSB, moisture-proof chipboard or plywood

ADVICE! When arranging a crate from boards, each of them is attached to each rafter with two nails along the edges. It is impossible to nail the boards with one nail in the center, since if the roofing is twisted out, it can be damaged.

As a rule, the step of the lathing depends on the size of the roofing material and its rigidity: the greater the length of its unit, the less often the timber or boards are placed.

She is also satisfied with the construction of roofs that are curved or have a complex shape.

The thickness of the crate can be different. Sometimes they arrange a crate in two layers. In this case, the lower layer can be sparse, and the upper layer can be continuous. The first level is arranged parallel to the roof ridge, and the second can be located perpendicular to it, or diagonally.

It also provides for the manufacture of a crate in two layers when laying a thick insulation - for example, foam plastic 100 mm thick. In this case, two 50x50 mm bars are stuffed sequentially across the rafters, one on top of the other.

Usually the crate is arranged from a bar 50x50, 50x60, 60x60 or 75x75 mm, as well as from a board from 20 to 50 mm. In this case, the width of the board should not exceed 150 mm, since a wider material is prone to increased deformation under the influence of dampness and temperature.

The calculation of the crate is carried out together with the truss system, since both the pitch of the beam and its cross section will depend on the pitch of the rafters.

Important information! The length of fasteners (nails or self-tapping screws) is taken as double the thickness of the lathing material). For example, for a bar 50x50 - this is 100 mm. Sheathing is fastened to each roof rafter.

Boards and timber should not have protruding knots and other defects, and for fragile coating materials, such as slate, and significant depressions.

Under the installation of a roof made of rolled materials, the joints of the unedged board are sheathed with galvanized iron, and in the places of bends and junctions, the corners of the board or beam are rounded so as not to damage the elastic coating.

Also, with solid pieces of metal, the outermost 30 cm of the batten are sheathed in the place of the roof overhang.

The order of work is usually the following:

On the extreme rafters mark the location of the bars or boards of the crate
Along the entire slope, with the help of a cable, the places where the bars or boards are fastened are measured.

An example of a continuous crate

Important information! It rarely happens that wooden crate arranged from a solid board or timber. As a rule, the standard length of lumber is much less than the length of the slope. Therefore, the elements of the crate have to be spliced along the length. This is done in such a way that the joint of the beam falls on the rafters, the edges of both spliced pieces are fastened with nails. It is important to ensure that in adjacent horizontal rows the joints are displaced, falling on different bars. To do this, the lumber is cut to the appropriate length.

Regardless of what is the main distance between the roof lathing, in the places of valleys and grooves (concave joints of slopes), it is arranged solid, possibly using sheet material, sometimes tin
Under the elements passing through the roof - various parapets or chimneys, their own crate is arranged, which is calculated separately. For example, for a chimney - it should be in any part of it at a distance of at least 150, and without thermal insulation for ceramic pipes - and 250 mm

ADVICE! The lathing should be arranged in dry weather, immediately before laying the roofing material. Wet bars or boards will definitely begin to warp

Immediately after the installation of the crate, a layer of insulation is laid, if one is designed, and a waterproofing film is attached over the beams with a stapler

With the advance calculation and cutting of lumber, the installation of the crate is greatly accelerated and takes less effort. Therefore, additional time should be devoted to preliminary preparation, and it should be done qualitatively.

Installation of wooden lathing: distance between fasteners, step, thickness

601) Mounting a wooden crate is a simple matter if you know how to calculate the distance between the fasteners or the step, the thickness of the bars themselves. And that's exactly what

Why do you need a roof sheathing, what happens, under what material which one to choose

It is impossible to equip a roofing system without lathing, which is laid on top of the rafter legs. It serves as a place for direct fastening of the roof finish sheathing.

What is the roof made of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only gets decorated appearance: it also has a protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from getting inside the ceilings. In addition, thanks to the roof, the impact of Wastewater on walls and plinth surfaces, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of the building: moreover, the second design involves several options for arrangement.

The composition of a conventional gable roof includes:

rafters. To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, it is usually used gusset equipped with bolts and brackets.
Mauerlat. This bar is in a horizontal position. It relies on individual elements rafters.
overhangs. This is the name of the lower sections of the rafters.
Skate. It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters join.
Lathing, counter lathing. Basic parts for laying roofing materials and insulation.
Waterproofing and insulation materials. With their help, warm attics are equipped.
roof deck. May be hard or soft.

In general, the roof is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option involves laying thermal insulation in the attic space: the roof in such a scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. Basically, this approach is used to design attic residential floors.

The purpose of the lathing in the roofing system

Thanks to the crate, the following tasks are achieved:

There is a reliable fastening of roofing materials.
The space between the roof and the insulation in this case is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
It is convenient to fix a layer of insulation and waterproofing on the roof sheathing.
The truss system receives protection from excessive load in cases of heavy snowfall.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before making the crate on the roof, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

Wooden beam of the first grade, 6 m long, without knots and other defects. The cross section is selected depending on which finishing material will be used. Under the metal tile, you will need products with a section of 50x50 mm, a metal roof is equipped with a beam of 60x40 mm. Ceramic tiles laid on a bar with square section 75x75.
Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. Some cases involve replacing boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
Hacksaw, chainsaw.
Mounting foam.
Hammer, perforator.
Bolts with nuts large sizes. Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
Building level, tape measure.

Varieties of roofing lathing

When studying the question of how to properly make a roof sheathing, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. Choice suitable option battens directly depends on the roofing material used.

There are two main types of crates:

solid. When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. A continuous crate is usually constructed under soft tiles, roll laying, flat slate or metal tiles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed over the cornice overhangs, as well as in the areas where the slopes adjoin. Making a choice in the direction of this crate, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
sparse. The gap between the timber in this case can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for laying natural tiles, metal sheets and wave slate.

We mount the roofing crate with our own hands

After the rafter system is fully equipped, a careful measurement of the roof is carried out. This is done with a rope, which simplifies the measurement of the diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may encounter certain difficulties. Next, the vapor barrier and insulation are laid, in the form mineral wool or other suitable material.

Do-it-yourself roof lathing is assembled on top of a previously laid waterproofing film, when laying which an overlap of 15 cm is observed. It is most convenient to mount the sheets from the top and down, taking the directions of the rafters. A construction stapler is suitable for attaching the film. On top of the rafters, slats are stuffed to create a counter-lattice.

It is important not to forget about the ventilation gaps separating the film and the roofing material being laid. Simply put, when laying the film, it is important to leave sagging. In the same way, the separation of the film and insulation is carried out. To simplify the task of how to properly make a crate on the roof, a crate template is used, which is designed to strictly comply with the design parameters.

If a soft roof is laid, then the installation of the elements of the crate is carried out by the method of alignment and docking. To avoid subsequent deformation, the solid structure must be fastened with particular care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under roll material

For laying roll sheets, you need a solid type roofing lathing, made of beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring should have a dense, without cracks, laying. The pitch of the crate is chosen not less than 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve the ideal smoothness of the lathing surface, with the obligatory drowning of nail heads and self-tapping screws deep into the wood.

How to make a soft roof

Installation of a soft type roof lathing is most common, due to the high popularity of this roof. Such material is inexpensive, and it is very easy to mount it. Here you will also need to equip a solid type crate, which is equipped with a special calibrated board. Such laying has a two-layer structure, in compliance with the maximum evenness of the joints.

Under these conditions, grooved board and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary antiseptic impregnation, have proven themselves well. To avoid damage to the soft roof in the corner areas, the ends of the boards must be rounded.

Under the tiles

According to experts, it is tiled roofs that have the most optimal performance characteristics in terms of quality and durability. Usually these are single-layer structures, the crate under which is equipped with bars with a cross section of at least 6 cm.

The laying step is guided by the dimensions of the tiles used. Some situations involve the creation of a double crate, from the same material. To achieve a uniform fit of the tiles, it is required to build the most even plane of the structure. This implies the use of timber with the same size.

What is the difference between the crate for slate and metal tiles

For arranging the crate, one or two layers of laying can be used. The first option involves the use of a bar with a square section of 50 mm. Optimal step in this case - 50 cm, with the laying of elements in a parallel direction to the ridge. If a unified profile is used instead of the usual wavy slate, then the step can be increased to 80 cm, with an increase in the cross section of the beam to 75 mm. The main thing at the same time is that under each slate span there should be at least three crossbars.

Most of all, in this design, the cornice is loaded, so its thickness should be increased. Skates and overhangs are made out by continuous floorings. To achieve uniform load distribution and sheet stacking density, even bars are made thicker than odd ones by 30 mm. In order for the structure to last as long as possible, before attaching the crate to the roof, all of it wooden details need to be processed special formulations fire-fighting and antiseptic action (for more details: “How and with what to process the rafters and the crate - we choose an antiseptic”). To apply them, you need a paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

To test the quality of a fire-fighting substance, it is enough to chip off a small piece of treated wood and try to set it on fire. A well-protected material ignites only when it is exposed to an open flame: upon its removal, the substance immediately dies out.

Competent design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to both the aesthetic beauty of the house and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality of each individual part. roof structure. The crate, despite its invisibility, plays a very important role, therefore, when arranging it, it is important to comply with all the necessary requirements and norms, how to make a roof crate. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials appropriate quality.

Roof sheathing: how to fix, installation on the roof, how to make the right roof sheathing with your own hands

Although the most common design in which the crate is used is pitched roofs, there are other planes where it is suitable. The most popular option is a wooden crate, but there are also metal structures.

The order of work is usually the following:

If there are bulges on the rafters at the points where the beam passes, they are cut off
In the case when a vapor barrier device is planned, it is laid on the rafters, fixed with a stapler. At the same time, the laying starts from the ridge, with the overlapping of the panels through it. If the membrane is transparent, the measuring cords can be removed completely. Otherwise, the film is slipped under the twine when laying
If there are recesses on the rafters under the future timber, they are leveled with stuffed rails, a set of pieces of roofing material of the desired thickness
Beams or boards begin to be fixed from the ridge beam, depending on the coating material and the chosen method of arranging the ridge assembly - at a distance from the run from 40 to 150 mm for each slope
As a rule, the crate is installed in pieces, while simultaneously closing the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope, determined by the length of the existing timber or board. Then move on to the next run.

Important information! It rarely happens that a wooden crate is made from a solid board or timber. As a rule, the standard length of lumber is much less than the length of the slope. Therefore, the elements of the crate have to be spliced along the length. This is done in such a way that the joint of the beam falls on the rafters, the edges of both spliced pieces are fastened with nails. It is important to ensure that in adjacent horizontal rows the joints are displaced, falling on different bars. To do this, the lumber is cut to the appropriate length.

Regardless of what the main distance between, in the places of valleys and grooves (concave joints of slopes), it is arranged solid, possibly using sheet material, sometimes tin
Under the elements passing through the roof - various parapets or chimneys, their own crate is arranged, which is calculated separately. For example, for a chimney - it should be in any part of it at a distance of at least 150, and without thermal insulation for ceramic pipes - and 250 mm

ADVICE! The lathing should be arranged in dry weather, immediately before laying the roofing material. Wet bars or boards will definitely begin to warp

Immediately after the installation of the crate, a layer of insulation is laid, if one is designed, and a waterproofing film is attached over the beams with a stapler

The roof is considered one of the foundations that ensure the comfort of the house, protection from the negative effects of atmospheric factors. That is why the process of its arrangement should be organized rationally and correctly down to the smallest detail. It is obvious that the laying of the roofing material must be carried out in full accordance with the technical recommendations and the requirements of SNIP. Roof lathing and counter lathing are one of the most important elements on which the reliability and quality of the equipped roof depend in the future.

One of them serves as the basis for the installation of roofing material and creates a gap between the latter and the insulation layer, and with the help of the other, additional ventilation ducts for under-roof space. Therefore, the question "how to make a roof crate" does not lose its relevance. In fact, this design, laid out from a series of boards nailed to rafter system, is an "intermediary" between the roofing and enclosing structures. Among other things, through it, the load of the roof is evenly distributed over the supporting frame.

Types of battens depending on the roofing material

Lathing (formwork) are of two types:
- sparse -used more often for sheet corrugated material, the minimum distance between the purlins is 40–50 mm. As a material, a beam is used for lathing with a section of 50 by 40–50 or boards: width 10–20 cm, thickness - 2.5–3 cm.
- solid- are made of tongue-and-groove boards (2.5x10 cm), and now more often from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB3, with a gap between the parts of 1 cm. This type is mainly used for piece roofing materials.
As a rule, solid formwork is performed as follows. They mount a sparse one and make a second layer of formwork on it. There are two options available here:
- they are stuffed on a sparse formwork, laying dry boards one to another (preferably tongue-and-groove). They should be located at an angle of 45 ° in relation to the first layer - sparse formwork;
- on the first - fasten sheet materials, type of moisture resistant plywood.
Thus, in order to lay the roof, it is necessary to make a special frame: first, repeating the pattern of the rafters, they mount the counter-lattice, after which, already across them, the frame itself is nailed, on which the roofing is laid.

The structure of the frame is determined by the type of roof. For example, in the case of metal tiles for installation, bars with a square section (□ 50, □ 60) are used, which are laid with a certain step. At the same time, a solid flooring is performed under bituminous tiles or roll coating using waterproof plywood or thin boards.

These structural elements make it possible to make the roof covering of the selected material continuous and ensure the strength of the roof structure.

How to make a roof sheathing, which board to use and how to fix it

The installation of the frame under the flooring is carried out from materials such as: timber, plywood, boards (better tongue-and-groove), tesa (in the case of a solid version). When choosing lumber, it must be at least second grade and without a single knot. It is not recommended to use unedged boards or timber, as this may affect the quality of the future roof structure. In extreme cases, their edges will need to be cut off.

To avoid warping, the maximum width of the board should be 150 mm - using too wide can cause damage to the roof.

If the lumber is not dry enough, over time the wood will dry out and the fasteners will loosen. All wooden elements load-bearing structure must undergo mandatory antiseptic treatment, which will protect them from damage by pests and decay.

There is no such frame only in houses with flat roofs, for pitched roofs, a similar design is required. At the same time, the steeper the slope, the, say, the crate gable roof, has a smaller step.

For normal operation and durability of the roof structure, it is necessary to provide a specific humidity regime. Since houses are usually heated, if the roof is not properly made, the warm air coming from interior spaces, will settle in the under-roof space in the form of condensate.

Double crate mansard roof practically lifts the cover above the insulation layer and provides ventilation in the under-roof space. That is, the water vapor and atmospheric moisture that got there from the interior of the house can easily be blown out, and the structure will thus be protected from decay.

Double decking should not have
- gaps larger than 6 mm (if this is not the case, then the gaps are covered using strips of roofing steel);
- should not bend from the weight of a person;
- boards should be joined on the rafters and be staggered.
It is also important with what nails to nail the crate and how. They are hammered closer to the edges of the lumber, slightly sinking the hats into the wood. The length of the nails is chosen from the calculation - twice as long as the thickness of the nailed board. The consumption of nails per crate in this case is 10 pieces / m 2.

In the photo: the frame serves as the basis for fastening the lining

Wherever you sheathe surfaces, be it a balcony, a bathhouse or a dwelling, first of all, a crate is built for lining. In this review, we will figure out how to build a structure from a wooden bar and what nuances to pay close attention to. All recommendations are tested in practice, so using them, you will be able to carry out the work yourself.

Description of works

In order for the crate for lining to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow a certain work technology.

It consists of three stages:

Calculation and purchase of material.
Preparing the bar for use.
Construction installation.

Each stage is important, so carefully read the entire review to eliminate errors during operation.

The first stage is the calculation and acquisition of material

To work, we need a very simple set of materials:

Wooden block.
Fasteners. See article.
Heater (if necessary).

FEATURE 1: frame spacing. The optimal distance between the elements of the crate is from 40 to 60 cm. If the lining is thin, then it is better to place the bars more often, this will give the structure additional rigidity. The distance may be different if the length of the walls does not allow maintaining the same step of the elements.
FEATURE 2: If there are openings, a bar must be fixed around the perimeter. If it's about doorways, then it is better to mount two racks at all to strengthen the system. Above and below it is desirable to mount guides.

FEATURE 3: when used, the thickness of the bar must not be less than the thickness of the heat-insulating material. The most commonly used option is 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm.
FEATURE 4: When purchasing material, pay attention to its moisture content. It should be no more than 15%. Raw elements may warp or crack when dried, so you should not use them.

Draw an approximate scheme of the crate with the step of the elements and their location. This will accurately calculate required amount material and do not buy an extra bar.

FEATURE 5: insulation is calculated based on the area on which it will be attached;
FEATURE 6: fasteners are selected based on the type of base. For concrete and brick, quick-mount dowels are needed, for wood, self-tapping screws or nails are used.

The second stage is the preparation of the bar

The finished material must be prepared accordingly.

The work instructions look like this:

STEP 1: the material should be put for a couple of days in the room that will be finished. This will allow the bar to acclimatize so that its temperature and humidity are the same as in the room.
STEP 2: elements are treated with an antiseptic composition. This can be done with a regular brush, treating all surfaces in order. You can do otherwise and make a trough from the boards, which is covered with a film. An antiseptic is poured there, and the bar is simply dipped, this option provides the highest quality protection.

STEP 3: while the products are drying, you can prepare the walls. To do this, markings are applied on the surface according to the width of the racks. The work is done with a pencil and a level so that the lines are even. This will allow you to visually see how the design will look and simplify the work, you will not need to be distracted by controlling the correct position of the elements;

STEP 4: measurements are taken to determine the length of the bars. It is better to do this in several places, as the walls or ceiling may be uneven;

Do not forget to leave gaps of 5-10 mm so that the bar does not abut and does not deform when temperature and humidity changes.

STEP 5: cutting the bar is done with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw. It is important to correctly mark the elements and cut them perpendicularly so that the ends are even. It is also desirable to treat the cut off areas with an antiseptic so that the bar is completely protected from moisture and pests.

The third stage is the installation of the frame

Let's figure out how to make a crate for lining with your own hands.

The workflow looks like this:

STEP 1: First you need to drill holes in the bar. The diameter depends on which fastener will be used. At the same time, remember that it is better to make holes for self-tapping screws so that it is easier to tighten them. Fasteners are located in increments of 40-50 cm, the minimum indent from the edge is 30 mm.

STEP 2: Mounting points are also marked on the wall, and if necessary, drilling is performed. For work, a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter is used. Remember that for reliable fastening, the self-tapping screw or dowel must go into the surface by at least 50 mm. See also the article.

STEP 3: if the irregularities on the wall or ceiling are very significant, then it is easier to fix the bar with the help of suspensions. They are located along the line every 50 cm and are fixed perpendicular to the crate. The price of such fasteners is low, so the cost of the project will increase slightly.
STEP 4: when fastening, the ends of the suspension are bent to the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed in the desired position. This option is very convenient because of its simplicity and accuracy, so you can level any base very quickly.

What is the crate attached. Nails for roof sheathing. Types of roof frames

The theory of the device of the lathing under the metal tile

Installation of the crate under the metal tile: step-by-step instruction

Lathing device for metal roofing: solid batten option