Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the outside: technologies, materials, step-by-step instructions. Insulation of a wooden bath: Russian bath - for heat and steam

When it comes to warming the bath, for most cases the best is, because this is the most common and effective method. Warming outside in more characteristic of residential buildings.

In order to provide the most complete and objective information, we will consider and possible options insulation of baths outside. The choice of insulation is being considered.

Is it necessary to insulate the bath from the outside?

A bath is a structure that is used periodically, and, accordingly, it is heated in the same mode. This is the main and cardinal difference from residential buildings, which have a constant source of heat.

If we restrict ourselves only to external insulation, then a situation will arise when, when heating a bath, first of all, only the walls, floor and ceiling will be heated (heaters for the ceiling are presented and analyzed).

And only after they warm up will the air inside begin to warm up. And this automatically causes increased fuel consumption and time for heating the bath.

When might it be needed?

As a mandatory recommendation, when an outdoor bath is required, one can name a situation when a bath combines its purpose with a residential one, i.e. the bath is additionally used as a place to stay. In this case, yes, external insulation is appropriate for the above reasons.

In addition, the insulation of the bath from the outside goes well with the processing of the building with finishing materials, which will allow you to create a single ensemble with other buildings on the site in terms of design and design.

Advice! Summarizing, we emphasize: if the bathhouse is not residential, there is no need and even, moreover, it may be unreasonable to insulate the bathhouse from the outside!

Useful video

Watch the video, where the principles of warming the internal and external warming of the bath are clearly explained, it is very instructive:

External insulation of the bath: what you need to know?

In our article we will talk about the technology and the procedure for carrying out work on warming the bath from the outside. You can decide on the need for such actions yourself, based on the information provided.

The basic principles of creating a "pie" of insulation

First of all, it must be said that if you decide to insulate the bath from the outside, then do not forget to use steam and windproof layers.

The correct "pie" of insulation should look like this:

1. sheathing for separating pieces of insulation and then attaching the remaining layers to it and finishing;
2. insulation(everyone decides independently);
3. wind protection;
4. counter-lattice(not mandatory, but guarantees the presence of a ventilation gap, otherwise you will have to adjust "by eye");
5. finishing materials.

Insulation of bath walls outside: technology

As for internal insulation baths, and for the outside - the main criterion that determines the procedure is the material from which the bath is built. Depending on this, heat-insulating materials, their thickness and method of application differ.

brick baths

As an additional recommendation, brick lining can be recommended as an element decorative finishes. Moreover, we advise you to lay out a layer of bricks not close to bearing wall, but leave a large ventilation gap that can be left empty or filled with loose insulation: sawdust, expanded clay, etc.

The only negative is the need to constantly maintain a positive temperature, otherwise freezing is possible and a wall of bricks can “lead” when thawing.

From cinder blocks

Insulation of the outer wall of the bath from cinder blocks is similar to the first two options, your finishing materials are up to you. The wood finish looks very nice: imitation of a log (block house), imitation of a bar, etc. The bath looks like a wooden one, but has the durability of a stone one.

Frame bath

The frame bath does not require full insulation from the outside at all, because. all heat-insulating tasks are taken over by a heater arranged inside the frame.

Outside, it is enough to install layers of steam and wind protection and waterproofing, as well as finish with finishing materials. The choice of which, as already mentioned, is extensive.

Don't forget to process wooden materials special formulations to extend their service life and preserve decorative properties.

Insulation of a wooden bath from the outside

Most customers prefer to trust the warming of the bath to specialists. Employees of companies offering provide insulation services for buildings different types.

In contact with

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside. Reliable thermal insulation with vapor barrier reduces heat loss, protects walls from the harmful effects of dampness. For each type of wall material, a suitable insulation is selected.

How to insulate the bath from the outside

To insulate the bath from the outside, two technologies are used: “wet facade” and “ventilated facade”. In the first case, foam, polystyrene foam or basalt wool slabs act as thermal insulation. First, they are glued to the wall with foam, additionally fixed with plastic dowels with umbrellas, and decorative plaster is applied on top. In the second case, a crate is attached to the wall of the bath. The cells are filled with mineral wool or basalt slabs, covered with a windproof film, a counter-lattice is stuffed, on which they are attached facing material. A gap remains between the film and the cladding, forming a ventilated space.

Ventilated facade method

If the bath is built according to frame technology or the walls are made of timber, logs, the outside can only be insulated by arranging a ventilated facade. For thermal insulation it is better to use basalt slabs. Rolled mineral wool eventually sags, slides, does not hold well between the elements of the crate.

Warming outside begins with the preparation of the walls. First, cracks are caulked, gaps between the crowns. Wood is treated with protective impregnation. Rotten areas must be replaced. A vapor barrier is attached to the prepared wooden wall of the bath.

Advice! It is better to use a special membrane as a vapor barrier for the wooden walls of the bath.

According to the vapor barrier material, a marking is drawn for the location of the elements of the crate. Brackets in the form of U-shaped perforated plates are attached to the walls along the marked lines. Pieces of roofing material are placed under each element. The crate is assembled from a galvanized profile or wooden bars. Elements are fixed with self-tapping screws to perforated brackets.

When the crate is ready, they begin to insulate the walls of the bath. Basalt wool is laid between the vertical elements. Plates should fit snugly without gaps. From above, the insulation is closed with a windshield. The film is fixed with a stapler to the elements of the crate.

In order to form a ventilated space under the cladding, battens are nailed to the vertical elements of the crate over the wind protection, forming a counter-lattice. The cladding is fixed from any vending panels. For insulation outside the bath, most often they choose the Block House, which imitates a log house.

Advice! The “ventilated facade” technology, if desired, can be used for a bath from bricks, blocks and other materials.

Insulation of different types of walls

The owners sometimes insulate the bath from the outside at their discretion. The procedure is not cheap. If the cost of heat loss exceeds the cost of cladding materials, the work will have to be done.

How to insulate a wooden bath from the outside

Walls made of timber or logs are thick. It makes no sense to insulate them from the outside. Wood itself is a heater, plus the internal thermal insulation of the bath. Walls made of timber or logs are insulated by sealing cracks. Flax caulk the gaps between the crowns, eliminate the gaps near the frames of windows and doors.

If wooden bath made of boards or walls made of thin beams, logs, a ventilated facade is equipped outside. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene cannot be used even in this technology. Plates do not pass moisture. For this reason, they do not combine well with wood. From the vapors accumulated under the insulation, the wooden walls will begin to rot. It is better to lay basalt wool in a ventilated facade.

Advice! If the log house is warm, but ugly, the outside of the bath can be lined with a ventilated facade without thermal insulation. Under the panels, only steam, waterproofing and crate are attached.

Warming of the frame bath

feature frame buildings is the presence of insulation inside the walls. Additional costs for insulation outside are not needed. For beauty, you can mount a ventilation facade without thermal insulation. Only if the insulation inside the frame has become unusable, then a full-fledged ventilated facade with basalt slabs is attached outside.

Insulation of a brick bath

For a bath made of brick, cinder block, foam block and other similar materials, it is advisable to make insulation from the outside. Wet facade technology is preferred here. Such insulation is cheaper. Budget thermal insulation is foam. Styrofoam or basalt slabs will cost a little more. Thermal insulation from above is covered with decorative plaster, painted with facade paint.

When the budget allows, the walls are insulated from the outside using the "ventilated facade" technology. If for wooden bath you can use only basalt wool, then here between the crate you can lay slabs of foam or expanded polystyrene. Only important mounting foam close all joints and cracks to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

How to insulate the ceiling of the bath from the outside

Inside the bath, the ceiling is insulated similarly to the walls, and a ventilated space is equipped. Outside, from the attic side, another technology is applicable. When the rough ceiling of the boards is lined, it is covered with two layers of fiberglass. It is undesirable to use roofing material, as it will appear inside the steam room from heating bad smell bitumen.

Even rolled mineral wool can serve as thermal insulation, but in order to save money, natural materials are used for insulation. The space between the beams is covered with expanded clay. Suitable kneading clay with the addition of fine straw, shavings, sawdust.

When the clay fill hardens and dries, foam or expanded polystyrene plates are laid on top. The thermal insulation is covered with waterproofing, a thin concrete screed is poured. You can even walk on this floor. If the attic of the bath is reserved for a rest room, after warming the final layer is laid with a finishing floor.

Do I need to insulate the foundation of the bath from the outside

To make sure the importance of external insulation of the foundation, it is worth considering 5 reasons:

1. On a cold foundation in winter, a temperature difference forms in a heated bath. The resulting condensate destroys the concrete base.
2. The problem with condensation occurs even in summer. An uninsulated foundation is warmed by the sun from the outside, and from the inside it draws cold and moisture from the earth. The temperature difference is similar.
3. A foundation not insulated from the outside cools the steam room faster. The bath has to be heated more often.
4. Outside, thermal insulation in winter softens the impact on the foundation of heaving soil.
5. A thick layer of thermal insulation on the outside protects the foundation from destruction, accidental mechanical impacts.

The listed 5 reasons convince that the insulation of the foundation of the bath from the outside is necessary. It can be carried out simultaneously with thermal insulation from the inside. It is impossible to do only internal insulation of the base of the bath. From the temperature difference, the concrete will begin to collapse from the side of the street.

How to insulate the foundation of the bath from the outside with your own hands

Exist different ways insulation of the base from the outside. All of them depend on the type of soil where the bath is built, as well as on the very design of the foundation.

The strip foundation is dug around with a trench 50 cm wide from the outside. The depth is maintained at least 80 cm. A 20 cm layer of sand is poured into the trench. The concrete tape is cleaned of dirt, treated with hot bitumen. After the waterproofing has hardened, the base is covered with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Plates 15 cm thick are glued with foam, additionally fixed with dowels with umbrellas. When using expanded polystyrene, the gap between the trench wall and the insulation is covered with sand. Styrofoam overlay brick wall. From above, the entire pie around the base is poured with a concrete blind area at an angle of 15 o.

A monolithic foundation is usually laid under a bathhouse in a swampy area. Insulate the base even at the stage of construction. Between layers concrete screed embed polystyrene foam. On the walls outside the foundation of the bath, do-it-yourself insulation occurs according to the principle of a strip base.

The columnar foundation forms a gap between the ground and the lower crown of the bath. For insulation, it must be laid with a brick. First, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the bath. The parameters are the same as for the insulation of a concrete tape. The bottom of the trench is covered with a 25 cm layer of sand, poured with water. When the pillow is compacted, they begin to lay out the wall. Concrete can be poured to the ground level, and rows of bricks can be laid above. A gap is left between the last row and the crown of the bath, filled with mounting foam. The built basement is insulated from the outside using the strip foundation method.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the outside

Work on insulation from the outside can be divided into three stages: preparation, rough work, final cladding.

surface requirements

Regardless of the chosen method of insulation, the walls of the bath from the outside are subject to careful preparation. The surface is carefully inspected. Slots on wooden walls are caulked with jute or linen.

The gaps between the crowns of the log house can be repaired modern materials. The site is first primed. The gaps are pushed with a polyethylene foam cord, a sealant is applied on top.

The method of sealing depends on the packaging of the paste. Sealant from buckets is applied with a spatula, squeezed out of tubes with a gun. Using special tape, the protective film is removed from its adhesive layer. The area is sealed with a strip. From above the tape is rolled with a roller. restored wooden surface treated with protective impregnation.

The preparation of brick, block walls of the bath is based on the sealing of all cracks, potholes. Small gaps are filled with sealant. When using putty or cement, the groove is widened so that the mortar penetrates deeper into the crack.

Tools

The set of tools depends on the selected material for the work. If a ventilated facade is chosen for installation, you will need a saw, drill, jigsaw, hammer, screwdriver. For mounting wet facade spatulas, buckets, a construction mixer are needed.

Installation

Insulation from the outside using the “ventilated facade” method consists of the following steps:

• a crate is attached to the wall of the bath ( wooden structure first sheathed with vapor barrier);
• the cells are filled with insulation;
• the windproof film is shot with stapler shackles to the crate;
• a counter-lattice is attached from the rails.

The whole cake is covered with facing material.

Insulation from the outside according to the “wet facade” method consists of the following steps:

• slabs of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or basalt wool are glued to the wall with an adhesive composition;
• square plates of thermal insulation at 5 points are fixed with dowels with umbrellas;
• the insulation is covered with a base layer of plaster, the fiberglass mesh is fixed.

The final finish is decorative plaster. The method of application depends on the selected composition.

Conclusion

Insulating a bath is not so difficult, if you clearly follow the instructions, follow the procedure. The initial costs are high, but they will pay off by saving the energy used to kindle the furnace.

Since ancient times in Rus', the walls of the baths were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, linen and moss were used, which are occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better than modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of the bath seems to be a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about it, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

Inside the bath, for reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate it exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why in log structures, wall insulation - after all, when laying the bath, it looks quite tight? The point is that such building material, like a log house, shrinkage is characteristic, from which serious cracks form. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not in favor of either health or finances in terms of excessive fuel costs. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective method- this is an interventional caulk.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a design cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can be used only one with a small weight. How about the styrofoam outer insulation simply indispensable for block structures - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The very insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

• Step 1 Creates a frame on a load-bearing wall.
• Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
• Step 3. Attached to the insulation waterproofing materials- a foil layer or at least a plastic film. They need to be laid with an overlap, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
• Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

As an option - use special PPU plates.

Wall insulation from the outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And high-quality external thermal insulation is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, moisture control and a guarantee against mold and bad smell. After all, the main task of the external insulation of the bath is the shelter of building structures, protecting them from contact with cold air and precipitation.

Further, how to insulate the walls in a bath of bricks and all sorts of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But as a heat insulator for such a “pie”, good old mineral wool is most suitable: environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of warming looks like this:

• Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
• Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which must be acquired elastic, able to withstand significant pressure.
• Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
• Step 4. The walls are covered with a rolled waterproofing agent, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
• Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, on modern market universal materials have already appeared that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil foam is foamed polypropylene, which is coated with aluminum foil and metal-coated levsan. It withstands temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates really effective insulation baths.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Warming the bath from the outside with your own hands (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is mandatory condition for supporting high temperature in the steam room and ensure a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy-efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, glued beams) need to be insulated. And the structures erected according to traditional technology, this applies in the first place.

In this article, I will give the algorithms that I myself use when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall cladding with polymer panels

When starting thermal insulation work in the bath, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by doing high-quality insulation with our own hands on the outside, we will provide additional protection against loss of thermal energy.

This means that in order to get the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it doesn’t matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the cost of insulation from the outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out according to two schemes. Universal variant no, but I prefer to finish buildings made of brick or concrete blocks with polystyrene foam or polystyrene followed by plaster, and to carry out the insulation of a wooden bath using the “ventilated facade” technology.

First, let's figure out how brick bath need to prepare for finishing:

1. I clean the walls, checking the seams between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with the adhesive composition. If we neglect the primer, then we will not have time to blink an eye, as from a brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer plates do not allow air to pass through very well), salt will appear, destroying the bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped base profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

1. Panels of heat-insulating material - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - are glued to the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose a heater for a bath according to its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on the type of material and on its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient from the outside.

1. Next, I take a puncher with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill goes deep into the wall by 40-50 mm. I fix the foam plastic with dowel-umbrellas, reinforcing the adhesive fasteners.

1. I perform plastering of the insulation, reinforcing the structure with an alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I grout the plaster and paint the walls on the outside with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bath is made of timber or logs, or erected using frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which one to choose for frame bath insulation, it is worth focusing on plates based on mineral fiber.

The algorithm of work will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. To begin with, we need to put the walls themselves in order - clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of wood damage, then these areas must be sanitized, and with a strong manifestation of defects, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it is pointless to insulate a rotten bath, since under a layer of heat-insulating material the process of wood destruction will go many times faster.

1. Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or injure them.

1. We fasten the crate panels to the brackets. We make them either from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a galvanized steel profile. Despite the fact that the beam is more prone to deformation, I prefer to carry out the warming of the bath exactly according to wooden crate: after all, metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a “cold bridge” .

1. Next, we lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the crate. Deciding which one is better for a frame bath, I settled on mineral wool medium density(up to 45kg/m3). But I know of cases when the place of basalt fiber slabs on the walls outside (as well as in the internal cavities of the frame) was sprayed with ecowool - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool perfectly keeps in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed, it somewhat loses its heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several dish-shaped dowels.

1. Insulation for frame, timber or log sauna be sure to cover with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the heat-insulating layer.
2. Further, it all depends on what dimensions our crate has. If we did it with a margin and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately proceed to the sheathing. If there is no reserve, then we press the heat-insulating panels with the bars of the counter-lattice (I use parts with a section of 40x40): a block house, a false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

The non-insulated bath roof is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by performing thermal insulation of the floor, but it is also desirable to finish the roof slopes with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We act like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (according to the mind, it must be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, it is almost always necessary to dismantle at least part roofing material, therefore, the waterproofing procedure should be performed at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. The rafters themselves and the elements of the roofing sheathing are treated with an antiseptic (again, this must be done earlier).
2. In the gaps between the rafters on the inside, we lay the heat-insulating material. Optimal choice for do-it-yourself roof thermal insulation - basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside, we block the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. To further secure the entire structure, we either stuff the transverse bars of the counter-lattice onto the rafters, or we perform the lining of the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a fairly neat looking attic.

Interior decoration

We warm the floor

The answer to the question of how to insulate a bath correctly from the inside is no less complicated. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor covering:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing material, on which we install support bars for the log.

If the floor in the bath is done on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The bedding is carefully rammed, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We lay logs on the support bars, the ends of which we fix on the walls of the room.
2. We cover the space between the lags with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss through the lower layer of air in the room will be.
3. We block expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, it is possible to equip a rough flooring over the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. Between the lags we lay panels of heat-insulating material. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then you can take polystyrene foam or even get by with polystyrene foam, but only mineral wool is suitable for a steam room - it is important that the material is immune to high temperatures.

1. We lay a waterproofing vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation. The quality of hydro and vapor barrier is very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
2. Next, we lay the draft floor, and then equip flooring solid board or ceramic tiles. The board is “warmer” and more pleasant to the touch, but the tile is easier to clean and less prone to swelling when wet, so the choice is yours!

Finishing the walls

Sheathing the steam room, rest room and dressing room with our own hands, we must take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. From this point of view, the steam room is the most difficult room, so I will talk about the technology using its example:

1. I prime the walls with a moisture-proof antiseptic composition.
2. I mount the crate bars on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the bar to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly more than the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

When choosing which is better to take a heater for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates are not suitable here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (less can be in the dressing room).

1. I lay the plates or rolls of insulation in the cells of the crate, making sure that the fibers are tested minimum load for compression.
2. From above I cover the thermal insulation with a vapor barrier material. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room a foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing solid energy savings.

1. Separately, I insulate the slopes: both windows and windows need to be made as airtight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on a steamed body - an almost guaranteed cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the skin and the insulation.

1. I install on the control grille decorative panels. For a steam room, lining with clapboard made of alder, poplar or other hardwood, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can take quite cheap pine.
2. I also impregnate the decorative sheathing with a moisture-proof compound to prevent it from rotting and reduce the deformation of wet wood during temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

And log, and frame, and brick baths also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if inside the ceiling is insulated approximately according to the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the side of the attic, you can use another technique:

1. We lay two layers of fiberglass on top of the draft ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
2. We prepare a heat-insulating solution: in a 1: 1 ratio, mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw, then fill the material with water and mix until a thick dough is obtained.

1. We pour the solution between the ceiling beams, making sure that the liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick matter, it can take several weeks), and then we lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. We close the heat-insulating material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in the cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we form a multilayer cake with our own hands, which practically does not let heat through.

Conclusion

Insulation of a bath is a whole range of works that (naturally, subject to proper implementation) will minimize all heat loss, reduce the cost of heating a steam room, and, most importantly, ensure a steady heat, for which we, in fact, go to the bath!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions, you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

In order for the temperature to be maintained in the bath for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it as low as possible, baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which prolongs the life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for the construction. For baths made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this is usually a thorough sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes they insulate the steam room and the washing room from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it is most likely necessary to insulate, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). Be sure to insulate baths built of bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to provide the necessary temperature regime the thickness of the wall must be at least 80 cm, which is very disadvantageous from an economic point of view. Therefore, such baths are always insulated.

How to insulate a bath from a log from the outside

Almost all the insulation of a log bath comes down to careful sealing of cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries out over time, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be regularly caulked.

Warming of a bath from a log

After the erection of a log house and caulking of cracks, the building must stand under the roof for at least six months. All this time it is advisable not to use the bath. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, new cracks and gaps will appear. That's what they need to caulk. To do this, use a special insulation based on jute and flax. Jute itself does not conduct heat well and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it breaks easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the log house insulation. Thin strips of material are hammered into the slots with a hammer and a special metal spatula-caulker. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It is easier to work with it: all available voids are filled from a special syringe.

Warming a bath from a log with a sealant

Log cabin shrinks for two years. At this time, it is not recommended to sheathe it with finishing materials. So you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the building can be tightened from the outside with a film, fixing it with planks.

Two years after the construction, you can start finishing. For many, this will sound ridiculous, but log structures can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, and dies. To begin with, a crate is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increase resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Crate for insulation and finishing

Attached to the frame finishing material, which is then varnished or other protective compounds. If metal guides are chosen, they are mounted on special suspensions.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and inside it is additionally insulated only sometimes a steam room and a washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or hydro barrier is laid on top of it. It is fixed with the help of planks, on which the finish is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Warming a bath from a bar from the outside is absolutely no different from warming a bath from a log. The building must also settle down, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Warming of a bath from a bar

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be carried out according to the following scheme:

• a crate made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both in a horizontal and vertical plane);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter crate (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulate baths outside

They usually sheathe a bath from a bar outside: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finishes are varnished for outdoor use, sometimes they are pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finish, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as a crate, which can be bought at the same place as siding. The guides are mounted on special suspensions.

Metal guides for siding are mounted on special suspensions

Insulation of a brick bath from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so it will be extremely difficult to warm up the room to the required conditions without external insulation. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of the bath - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside polystyrene boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is its high price). For high-quality performance of work, it is advised to put two layers side by side (with an offset of half the length) to reduce heat loss due to overlapping seams. But this method takes more time, and materials for insulation take twice as much. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

Fabric-reinforced PVC tape

For sheathing a brick bath outside, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior decoration: you can finish the bath outside with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or foam plastic were used as a heater. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

You can insulate a brick bath according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

The scheme of insulation of a brick bath according to the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold firmly enough (therefore, the mounting step of the guides is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held due to the force of elasticity). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top of the waterproofing film, and fixed with planks. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for mounting the exterior finish. According to this scheme, it is also possible to insulate baths from foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of the block bath

To baths from blocks, you can apply any of the insulation schemes described above. In addition, there is another option: to impose such a bath decorative brick, but such an option for finishing and warming is possible if a positive temperature is maintained in the bath all the time.

Exterior finish baths with decorative bricks

If you decide to overlay a bath of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not close, but stepping back 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will improve significantly. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special processing, etc.

Aerated concrete bath insulation scheme

In order to prevent moisture from accumulating in the inter-wall space, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and for reliable fixation finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become more and more popular. Block house to be made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood.
A block-house sheathed bath looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath lined with a block house

conclusions

A log bath, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional wall insulation, either outside or inside.

When choosing an external insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Can be used without harm to health mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for warming the bath inside. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have financial opportunities, the bath can be sheathed with a metal block house, which will last for many years.